MK7 GTI camshaft adjuster valve - HUGE problem SOLVED

I was very worried! It’s fixed and I now know the intake and exhaust camshaft adjuster valves AREN’T the same part number.
This is the intake camshaft adjuster part I used
06K109257H (tried to post a link and it was blocked)
I used the CTA Tools 5440 sockets on Amazon, they won’t fit so you’ll have to make them work for you.

[@thehoov6672]

Did you have to remove the whole valve cover to change the camshaft adjuster value and magnet?? I saw posts online saying this is a 6hr job at the dealership...

[@aallien]

No I didn’t. The magnetic adjuster comes off and the valve is behind it. They may charge 6 hrs but it’ll only take them 30 mins absolute max.

[@ree002]

When you had the camshaft adjuster magnets replaced, did they come with new o-rings/seals? Mine are “sweating” oil, so I want to replace them, but not sure if the new parts typically come with new seals as well. Thanks in advance for any help!

[@aallien]

There were no seals on the old or new magnets or cam adjuster valves that remember. It's plastic against plastic on the magnet and fits snugly. I recommend replacing the bolts when you take the magnet off unless you've replaced them with steel bolts those aluminum bolts snap so easily. I just got some M6-1.0 by 14mm from Home Depot.

[@josh8106]

@@aallien just barely snapped one and had slowly back it out 😅

[@josh8106]

Ryan Elliff I believe WHT007212B is the o-ring you are looking for but you might want to double check compatibility

[@danielcbk1949]

I have same sweating oily you replaced them and is gone ?

[@grewvcannabis]

I had to replace my magnet so I also went ahead and removed the adjuster valve so I could inspect it and get the part number. The valve seemed good so I copied the part number and put it back. Set my torque wrench to 20lbs just guessing and it seems like after getting so tight it just spins ? I know I can remove the casing and hold with a 18mm wrench but I didnt want to do all that. Can I mess up the timing or anything when tightening it? Cant find any videos of anyone putting them in, only removing. Its in pretty good but definitely not flush. Car finally drives good, It felt like a clogged fuel filter or injectors before. 2015 Audi A6 2.0T 190000KM

[@aallien]

I am sooo not qualified to answer your question.

[@mplafferty]

My 2015 sportwagen s makes a "pre ignition" type sound at low RPM before a down shift. If I drive in sport mode I don't ever hear the noise. I feel that the noise does not happen when the engine is under load. Is this what you experienced before the fix? It is definitely worse if the oil is not 100% full. Thanks!

[@aallien]

Wow! I heard a metal tapping sound at idle and it was pretty much go away under load like you’re experiencing, but it sounds different than pre ignition. The sound was way worse on deceleration while remaining in gear just letting the car slow down. Yeah VW’s have to have the oil topped off and in good condition. I change mine every 5000 miles and make sure the oil meets the spec. My GTI (which I’m about to sell) is VW 502.00, the Golf R 504.00 and the Tiguan is 508.00. All changed at 5000 miles. I just have had enough issues that it’s way less to change the oil than it is to replace cam shafts.

[@edrianbardon8928]

Hey Aaron, I got a question about the exhaust vvt control valve, is it the same with the intake?

[@aallien]

It’s the same process but it’s a different size by like a millimeter.

[@brodofaggins]

My car started making a crazy noise too, and my indie shop diagnosed this as a intake camshaft that needs to be replaced. I unplugged the cable for the intake camshaft adjuster and now it's running normally (albeit I can tell the engine performance is slightly affected). Is it safe to run this engine with that cable unplugged?

[@aallien]

I’m no mechanic, but I’d say definitely not. Replace camshaft adjuster and valve. They’re both pretty cheap parts that you could do yourself most likely.

[@JulioRz.]

Did you keep using it with the cable disconnected?

[@rickknechtel5093]

Pretty sure the point is the spool valve behind the magnet inside, the cam is actually causing the clattering noise

[@aallien]

Yes but if the magnet is bad it can also cause the problem which is why it’s a good idea to start with unplugging the magnet to see if the noise changes for the better or worse. For mine, replacing the magnet stopped one of the noises completely at idle and while cruising but when decelerating the noise from the camshaft smacking whatever inside was terrible. Ultimately replacing the valve fixed the issue. I’d say do both. The parts are fair cheap in the grand scheme of things.

[@motobikesmiler]

Hi I’m trying to figure out if this is what is wrong with my my 7 golf r it’s making the clunking noises you have described when idling but it struggles to idle wants to just stall did yours have the same idle problems and is it safe to drive or will it cause a engine failure?

[@iJo09]

Maybe an intake carbon cleaning procedure might help

[@aallien]

I agree with the previous comment. Rough idle can also be caused carbon build up. I will say that we haven’t done carbon cleaning even though I know it needs it. A quick way to tell if it’s the valve or magnet is to unplug one magnet at a time and see the noise goes away. Don’t let this go without being checked. My assumption is that the noise is the camshaft hitting something because it’s being adjusted incorrectly by the valve or magnet.

[@motobikesmiler]

Thanks for the help guys I tried unplugging the magnets didn’t change in fact it’s now much worse sounds like top end tapping I’ve booked it in to be looked at unfortunately I have over a weeks wait with no car and all sorts going through my head on how much it will cost 😭

[@aallien]

@@motobikesmiler yeah I’m curious what someone charges to do this and what they say the issue is. I don’t have anyone local I trust to work on my car. I’d have to drive about 3hrs to get someone to do the job.

[@MegaHollywood1971]

It is difficult to diagnose precisely without investigation. If something is throwing off timing or fuel injection that can create the stumbling you describe. Could be CAM POS Sensors, a faulty Purge Valve, your Manifold MAP Sensor (just to name a few). Often, if you have a vacuum leak through the Purge Valve the excess fuel vapor doesn't get burnt off and runs through the plenum fouling the MAP. Additionally, that can create oil splash confusing the Cam Pos Sensors or damaging them as well. I would remove and check the MAP sensor and look for any signs of fuel or oil. Next, listen for an air leak sound nearest Cyl #1 while the car is at idle / If there is an apparent "air sound", then you know the Purge Valve is leaking. Also, if you Do Not hear the sound, feel the rubber hose - you should feel "pulsing" - if you don't feel any pulsing, then the Purge Valve is stuck closed. Lastly, you can disconnect and remove the Cam Pos Sensors and wipe them off (if there is any oil present) and reconnect. You would want to check with an OBD reader for: Cam Intake and Exhaust (specified and actual). If the % do not match up to each other OR are going extremely Up and Down on either - then, the Cam Sensor of whichever displays what I mentioned is faulty. Back to the Cam Magnets: If you wanted to check the magnets and spool valves, you can remove the magnets and shake them. If they do not rattle, then those are faulty. Then, look at the CENTER piece of the spool valves and if those center points are protruded and not flush, then for sure the spool valve(s) are faulty. That's the easiest way to check. Plus, you will have excess oil when you remove the magnets. Just ensure you get the correct BOLTS x 6 and replace the inner O-Rings (if you are doing BOTH Magnets) to affix the new ones back in. The seal is replaced when removing the entire Timing Cover. You could have some serious Carbon buildup as well, but like I mentioned - it is difficult to diagnose. Hopefully this provides you with information that you may or may have not discovered since you posted this.

[@renzorenzomac]

Yo I’m having the same issue, performance has dipped & has rich fuel Vapor smell also along with rough idle, when I do not have the cable pulled in it’s fine. What parts do I need & tools? Thanks 🙏🏽

[@magicman073]

Hi pal you get your issue sorted I’m getting fuel Vapor smell in my car. Getting a knocking noise when I accelerate. But not all the time.

[@renzorenzomac]

@@magicman073 I had the adjuster changed but the issue still remains, I think it’s to do with the timing side of things as I’ve been told. What issue are you having?

[@magicman073]

I’ve got an oil leak somewhere right hand side of the engine. Only owned a month or 2 now. Just had it serviced hoping they could find the issues but couldn’t so re booked in for further investigations. But engine needs a clean to get rid of the oil. The knocking started about a week ago. Under acceleration it’s a bit intermittent but getting more to i can pretty much create it most times to record. Which I’ve managed to get a good few clips. I can smell that vapour & maybe loss of power think changing the camshaft magnets sensors is what I might get done first. I’ve watched so many videos and read forums. Different answers and still unknowns.

[@magicman073]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5vRm3yIq7esgMUsi=4g_dn2lA24ne1H-m

[@juandavidrojasvivas4798]

I have the same problem but only in one opportunity the car in realenti showed the the witness oil pressure, who is the problem in this case, the camshaft ?

[@aallien]

I don’t understand the question. I’ll also say I’m not a mechanic just a do it yourself person.

[@georgekelly5170]

So the inlet & exhaust cam magnets are different? You interchange them?

[@aallien]

I just reread your comment and realized you said can magnets not valves. I’m reasonably sure the magnets are the same. They look identical, but I haven’t read the model numbers.

[@pincheadam]

Bro I have the exact same issue exact same issue. I pulled the magnet off the intake cam, and it was an H variant, what variant was on the exhaust cam?

[@pincheadam]

Also any tips on getting the exhaust cam magnet off without struggling too much?

[@aallien]

The magnet comes off easily. Just put a small flat head screw driver behind the edge after you have the 3 bolts out. I can’t remember the version, maybe A

[@pincheadam]

​@aallien I'm pretty sure The A and H revisions are different sizes?

[@novembergarage8547]

Any updates? I’m going through the Same issue to the point the car is undriveable

[@aallien]

I replaced the front valve and magnetic adjusters. If you’re having the same issues I’m sure by now the issue is resolved, but if it isn’t those items are what fixed my problem.

[@jacobfranco836]

are the magnets an easy install? and is that all you replaced to fix the noise

[@aallien]

The magnets are super easy to install and it did change the noise, but not eliminate it. I had to replace the valve as well to fix the problem. I understand some replace the magnet and that solves the problem for them. My car has over 100k miles so I had to replace both parts.

[@jacobfranco836]

@@aallien yeah i have a 2017 mk7 and im at 91k, i feel i might as well replace both magnets and the valve all at once, thanks for responding!!

[@aallien]

Definitely get the model number off both valves before ordering. I have a brand new one I can’t return because it was technically installed.

[@jacobfranco836]

@@aallien yeah thats a big thing i am worried about before ordering i just need the time to get under there and find the model number for them

[@jacobfranco836]

where did you find the valves? i cannot find 06k only 06h

[@kevinlumpini5865]

Did you get any egine codes?

[@aallien]

Yes I did, but I don’t recall what they were. I do know that after I replaced the bad valve and magnet and cleared all codes those codes didn’t return.

[@juandavidrojasvivas4798]

Oil presure ?

[@andrewduncan9210]

Usually ecu errors around vvt not working properly would be camshaft advance or retard set points not being reached. Wouldn't cause an oil pressure issue but the system relies on oil pressure to work.

[@rexx613CT]

I have this issue cept the magnet bolts two heads are sheared off is it hard t get them out

[@GG-GODZILLA91]

I have Volkswagen 2014. I have code P0011

[@aallien]

haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/how-sort-p0011-fault-code#