MN99Sa Upgrade Stage 1.. metal metal

After running the stock MN99, I wanted a little more and was interested to see where it could go as a project.
The results are pretty good. Not the finished article but certainly getting there. Here's a link to each of the different parts that I bought and used:
FlySky 6 Channel RC Transmitter and Receiver:
s.click.aliexp...
HobbyWing QuicrRun 1060 ESC
bought from the excellent Craig at BarnFind Models in Culcheth
barnfindrc.co.uk/
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(the following 9 items are all from one store, it was the best collection I could find from one seller)
Front bumper:
s.click.aliexp...
Full set of full metal axles:
s.click.aliexp...
Suspension links / tie rods:
s.click.aliexp...
Axle suspension mounts and servo bracket:
s.click.aliexp...
The first front braces that I used (I continued to use the straight brace):
s.click.aliexp...
Rear tray:
s.click.aliexp...
370 motor with metal gearbox and drive shafts:
s.click.aliexp...
The shock absorbers that I wouldn't particularly recommend unless you just want the springs:
s.click.aliexp...
Spare bearings just in case some are missing or damaged:
s.click.aliexp...
s.click.aliexp...
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These items are from a different seller.
New shock absorbers:
s.click.aliexp...
Slimline front brace and bumper mount:
s.click.aliexp...
Side skid plate / running boards:
s.click.aliexp...
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And this is where to buy the car:
Get one from Aliexpress:
s.click.aliexp...
or Banggood:
uk.banggood.co....
(RC Pie will get a tiny commission from using these links which will help us to keep the channel going and let us get more RC stuff to show you.)
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Stay tuned for the next steps!
Please subscribe and get in touch.
If you'd like to support me to buy things to review and produce more content, you can 'Buy Me A Coffee'
www.buymeacoff...
Thanks for watching!

[@andyfindlay9391]

Fantastic upgrades. Even the squeak makes it sound more realistic 😂

[@rcpie]

That was the plan, obviously! 🤔

[@ArcticTechnology]

Congrats 🎉 25 subscribers

[@rcpie]

Cheers. Just another 9,975 to go!

[@Fortes_RC_Adv]

Very good video. Thanks for the upgrades information - very useful 👍 👌 💪😉

[@rcpie]

Glad it's been helpful.

[@Fortes_RC_Adv]

@rcpie I have some RCs as you can see in my channel. I don't have a MN... but I'm thinking to buy the MN 98. Beside the body shell there is more differences between MN99s and MN98?

[@rcpie]

@@Fortes_RC_Adv I've not had my hands on an MN98 but I think it's just the one-piece body that is different to the 99 variations.

[@Fortes_RC_Adv]

@@rcpie thanks😉

[@georgepapamichail1006]

Great video, great upgrades !!!!!!!!!!!

[@rcpie]

Thanks a lot, George!

[@GamingInTheFASTLANE]

Great video just got one of these for my son as a first car

[@rcpie]

They're a great starting point for the hobby. You can then either keep tuning and improving or move to 1/10. They're especially good for small hands (not mine).

[@3Y3ECE]

These motors have been my issue with all these types of rigs now... I wanted a 2 speed, but they are fiddly and tempermental, tried the 370 directly, they are bullets. Tried reduction gears on a single speed and they are too slow. I'm pretty much done with trying brushed on these guys. I need a torquey, small brushless with the reduction on it to get slightly higher speeds that that brushed setup we are both currently using... (as of this video, of course). Anyhow, thank you for the video, quite informative!

[@rcpie]

It's definitely a problem, trying to find the right motor. I'm glad the video proved useful.

[@scaleworksRC]

I'm about to order a 370 upgrade so I can just plug it in without having to upgrade electronics yet. Hopefully the factory ESC is not going to explode.

[@rcpie]

@@scaleworksRC It should be OK.

[@MikeRCWorld]

Wow, it is really great upgraded 💪😊 it's a small beast, looks solid, thumbs up

[@rcpie]

Cheers, man. It's a fun little thing. You just need to drive it in a scale way.

[@ACeperienceRC]

Awesome upgrade bro 💪 , subbed.

[@rcpie]

Thanks a lot. I've neglected the MN99 recently. It's in bits ready for a repaint. I need to get on it in the New Year and get some more MN vids posted!

[@CoryDean]

Nice video. Love my MN99s.

[@rcpie]

Thanks

[@bortopedi]

I use the first shock for upgrade my wpl c44, and its fit perfectly, you just bought the wrong shock for your car. I experience the same problem with the jiggly metal axle, the pinion and the diff gear has to be tuned so it has just right gear mesh, and it will rin smoother. And use a drop of oil on shock and rod end so the squeek will gone.

[@rcpie]

Cheers for the suggestions. All those issues are long gone, now. Sadly, there aren't any particularly good replacement shocks for the MN99. Nearly all of them are far too stiff. My setup isn't too bad, though. The car has been set in bits for a while, though. I dismantled the body for a paint job. I need to get back on it and have some smaller fun!

[@jkap600]

Nice video, I just bought a mn98. I'll follow your tips.

[@rcpie]

Thanks and I hope it proves helpful.

[@mytechnique2833]

If someone doesn't really have the time nor technical knowledge for changing all the parts how about glueing some small weights to the underside of the body to add a bit of weight, surely that would keep it more stable also?

[@rcpie]

You certainly could do. Lots of people stick wheel balancing weights to their crawlers. You just need to decide whether you want better performance or more realistic look when deciding how much to put on the body or the axles. Whichever way you choose, just try to get it as low as possible without compromising clearance.

[@ihsrc4220]

Woah this video helped me a lot buddy. Just a quick question, what battery do you use? And how long does it last?

[@rcpie]

I'm glad to hear it was useful. I've just stuck with the original batteries. I've not used the little MN for a while, so can't remember how long they lasted but I'd guess at about 45 mins to an hour.

[@ihsrc4220]

@@rcpie ah I was wondering if the 370 motor would reduce the paly time of the stock battery. Thanks for the information buddy. Appreciate it ❤

[@rcpie]

It doesn't make a massive difference really. It's not a huge motor and it's not working very hard. The extra weight of all the metal parts probably makes more difference.

[@ihsrc4220]

@@rcpie yeah i think this battery is pretty much decent for a crawler like this. I was going to buy a lipo but now i think buying the same stock battery is much cheaper and better. Thank you for helping ❤

[@evoemperor3776]

You should bend the metal plate upwards flush with the body so the wheels won't hit it when flexing rather than cutting it in which you botch it🤣

[@rcpie]

I think we'll have to agree to disagree on that, based on a few things: 1. All sellers' images show these plates mounted exactly as they are here (but not cut) 2. They are actually fairly thick and to get a nice clean bend in exactly the right place would be tricky. 3. If you bent the plates into the wheel-arches, it would look terrible. Is this something that you've done yourself? If so, I'd love to see it.

[@thePavuk]

Wow, these prices for USA is ridiculous. Where I live (CZ, EU), suspension cost $20, rods $30, axles $20, motor $50.... I wish to order it from aliexpress, but shipping cost even more.

[@rcpie]

I guess you mean they're ridiculously low in the US. They always seem to get RC stuff so much cheaper than we do in Europe. 🙁

[@AICS-Vizion]

Nice video, what about one of the new ln 82 lc79?? I just ordered one and i dont find videos of upgrades yet, maybe because its a new model haha

[@rcpie]

I've not got one but am considering it. They look lovely. The last time I tried to order an MN, I waited a ridiculous length of time then the parcel got turned back. I cancelled it, ordered from someone else and the same thing happened.

[@AICS-Vizion]

@@rcpie oh i'm so sorry to hear that, apellido ill recibe my mn this year, thanks for your fast answer and your videos 👍💪

[@rcpie]

I just ordered one 🙄

[@Hjerte_Verke]

The shocks at 15:15 are WPL shocks and are intended for the C series trucks, Hilux and Land Cruiser [C34]. You goofed there

[@rcpie]

They were recommended to me with a workaround; the reason being the softer springs than are available in others. However, when I saw the construction, I didn't think they were a good idea. So, perhaps part goof but we live and learn and then try to help others. Thanks for watching!

[@new2rc453]

@@rcpie Well said bud !

[@hellofromsoutheastalaskarc7517]

Hello from southeast alaska

[@rcpie]

Hello from northwest England!

[@hulqen]

Great video! One question: how come you didn't put skidplates/other protection directly underneath the car to protect the motor, gearbox etc? In my (so far quite limited) experience with rc crawlers, they get stuck balancing on the middle quite a lot.

[@rcpie]

You're right that it's a bit of a snag point on the old MN. The design of all the gearboxes (basically upside down) from MN and aftermarket suppliers is a problem that isn't easy to overcome. If you put any sort of guard underneath, it would just hang up on that instead and you've got less clearance. Plus, all the guards are horribly designed and made of metal so wouldn't slip over most rocks.

[@chrisashford9826]

Could you do a video of wiring the whole thing where to cut and join

[@rcpie]

My MN99 is currently in bits awaiting some love. When I get round to it I'm going to paint it and possibly change the electronics a bit, so I'll probably do a video then. I might lose the 1060 and use a lightweight esc. Not sure yet. I'm awaiting an MN82, so I'll see whether I upgrade that and what I use.

[@chrisashford9826]

How hard is it to do what you did donyou still use the existing battery that came with it

[@chrisashford9826]

I litterly had mine for 1 day and the motor burnt out

[@rcpie]

@@chrisashford9826 That's pretty unlucky. Now to decide whether to go for the 370 motor or the WPL two-speed. The 370 is great but not if you're a quick walker and want to trail with it.

[@chrisashford9826]

Do you reckon I could use the existing circuit board if I use a new 370 motor and gear box

[@moldoveanuaurel6415]

Hello, Very nice job you've put in there! I was curious on what sealing you've used to isolate the axles? Is it enought to add a thin layer on the joint line? Thank you!

[@rcpie]

I used an automotive silicone for the joint lines. To be honest, unless you've got visible gaps, I probably wouldn't bother. Big gaps want it to keep dust out but if you're thinking water, it will get in somewhere anyway.

[@moldoveanuaurel6415]

@@rcpie let's keep it on dry terrain 😁 thanks for the reply

[@moldoveanuaurel6415]

@@rcpie hello again, is there any way of using the lights module on GT5 receiver? The plug needs to be customized for sure and I'm pretty sure the left right signals will be lost but still the headlights will be something pleasing.

[@rcpie]

@@moldoveanuaurel6415 You can fairly easily connect the headlights to a servo plug and then use a 2-way splitter if you need to share a channel with something in use. Alternatively, you can buy simple light units to connect to their own channel so that you can turn them on and off. Indicators are stupid on an RC car, anyway!

[@moldoveanuaurel6415]

@@rcpie Roger that! Thank you!. Yeah indeed are silly but for kids are fun 😁

[@lckuiper]

Thanks for the great video. One question.. what battery do you use with the 1060 ESC? I got a 1060 with a Tamiya connection, but the original accu is JST SM. Can I just create an adapter and is the original MN99s accu sufficient for this ESC? I am still using the stock motor for now. Thanks!

[@rcpie]

I'm glad you've found it useful. I've only ever used the original batteries in the MN99. I have XT60 connectors on all my ESCs and all my LiPos for cross-connectivity. For the 99, I just made an adaptor from JST to XT60.

[@EmreYurdakulOfficial]

Nice video, thanks. Now my MN 99's differentials are worn out and i can't find any upgrade parts anywhere. I am about to regret that i have bought a cheap Chinese RC :/

[@rcpie]

Thanks. For upgrades you really need to look at banggood or AliExpress. There are lots of options out there. Embrace the fun of upgrading and putting your own stamp on it. Just remember that it will always be a small roof and not some crazy rock climber. If you drive to scale you'll have a lot of fun with the MN99. I sometimes forget and then go back to it after a few months to find that it's nice, innocent fun.

[@rcpie]

There are links to the upgrades in the video description, by the way.

[@chrisashford9826]

Did you still have lights after the upgrade

[@rcpie]

No. I wasn't really bothered about the lights. It's easy to have basic lights working, though. You can just wire them into a servo plug so that they draw power from the receiver.

[@nerfunboxing4730]

How did you solder the battery plug

[@rcpie]

Just normal soldering

[@IowaBudgetRCBashers]

Did you have any clearance issues with the HOBBYWING esc and the body? I’m planning on that mod and the same 370 gearbox for mine.

[@rcpie]

It's very tight indeed. The key (and the challenge) is the cable routing. Plan it out and make sure the cables are the right length.

[@swarnaprasad]

Hi, what guage wires i need to use for motor to Esc? I am using Lipo 2s and 3s.

[@rcpie]

Honestly, with the tiny size of that motor, you're hardly drawing anything from the battery, so you could use virtually anything.

[@swarnaprasad]

@rcpie ok cool, infact while using a 2s Lipo, the motor wire started to fume while climbing a grade..probably loose connection to esc?? So thought of 14 awg wire for motor..also forgot to ask you about the motor limit on this 1060 esc..so basically 370, 380 upto 540? Loved your Video:)

[@rcpie]

@@swarnaprasad 14awg wire is pretty much the standard for 540 motors, so will easily be enough. The 1060 will easily cope with just about any 540 motor that you throw at it on 2S. If you want to run 3s in something with a 540, you'd be better going for a 1080. Not likely to be a consideration with the smaller motors, though.

[@no0batwork157]

Try 2 speed gearbox

[@rcpie]

I considered one for a while. Maybe when the 99 gets rebuilt I might add something new.

[@vvsre760]

Hello i recently upgraded my diffs and axels to metal as well, im getting that same issue where its jerky but thing is why does my MN99 slip now? I'm trying to figure out if I need to put grease or oil in the differentials now so it will not slip, I'm getting fustrated because I really like my new metal axel upgrade install for this R/C. Weird thing is i changed the rear back to the STOCK plastic differential and axel and it spins fine as before??? The front ones i kept with the upgraded metal axels and it just slips now my MN is just rear-wheel drive because the front slips.

[@rcpie]

Do you mean that the ring and pinion gears are slipping? If so, that's probably because you need to add a washer as a shim behind the pinion gear before you push it through the axle housing and attach it to your drive shaft.

[@vvsre760]

@@rcpie what is your instagram i can send you a message and video of my differential before I return the axels, I feel like I can fix it but tried many ways for it to stop slipping and grinding

[@rcpie]

@@vvsre760 I can have a look. rcpie on Insta

[@steffen1153]

Hi! How did you solve the problem at 10:45? Thanks for your help!

[@rcpie]

I bought different driveshafts. If you watch the second upgrade video, you'll see what I got.

[@steffen1153]

@@rcpie thank you! Greetings from Germany 👋

[@rcpie]

I hope that helps. Best wishes to everyone in Germany! (One of my best friends is from Gelsenkirchen)

[@Steve-t8p]

How much total for thebupgrades

[@rcpie]

I think it totalled about £140 for the parts. Then another £70 for the radio gear but I don't count that as I wanted it for using with loads of trucks and cars.

[@Steve-t8p]

@@rcpie Thanks for the info .I think they are Kool consider what u pay for them..the upgrades ..come a little at a time for me.

[@rcpie]

@@Steve-t8p It's the best way. Just upgrade as things break. I think the best upgrade was the wheels and tyres. It usually is!

[@guyelsenburg9196]

What shocks do you recommend to get more lift and droop

[@rcpie]

Honestly, replacement shocks for the MN 99 are a nightmare. I don't think you'll find anyone that's really happy. I combined two different sets to get something with the right softness but enough travel and mounting that worked with my other upgrades.

[@rcpie]

My goal was to drop it to get a more realistic look but I still wanted the flex.

[@edlujan]

I did the same upgrades. But the motor is binding, the ESC sees it as a short I'm trying to figure out why. Does anyone have the same issue?

[@rcpie]

That's odd. Have you checked all the electrical components separately to make sure they work?

[@edlujan]

@@rcpie yes. What I normally do is rotate the axel with my hand, and that unbinds the motor. It works for a while and then binds again. My ESC is a generic one.