Model A distributor vs electronic, what's the difference?

[@eddiemukhwana3084]

Thanks for the video Rob. It's informative. I didn't know the difference

[@BigTex347]

Thanks for the quick overview. I just bought a 1931 Model A Roadster that's been sitting in a barn in Idaho for a little over 40 years. The engine turns freely, and it seems to otherwise be in pretty good shape. I have two other 1931 Model A trucks, and I just did an engine swap on one of them (I found a 1928 Tudor car engine that I replaced the original engine in my 1931 truck - the original engine piston #1 exploded and the engine was not repairable). I took the top of the distributor off and I see that it's all original. The part on your distributor that you said was "angry" is also in need of help on my Roadster. I want to upgrade to the points system that you have - is it difficult to do? Thanks.

[@wrenchingwithrob6001]

It's not difficult at all to install the modern points set. In fact, the same outfit that sells all the replacement parts also sells an electronic ignition setup that fits in the stock location. The points set in the video is very easy to install and comes with a great set of directions. Be careful not to screw the feed wire from the cowl in to far or it will short out. Check the distributor shaft bushings while you have it that far apart. How this helps and thanks for watching.

[@williambutler8624]

Older video, lots of good information, I recently installed electronic ignition on my 1931 Model A, I wired it exactly 💯 like the instructions said, my car won't start, my car is 6 volt, the kit I installed goes into old distributor, do you know of any information on troubleshooting this system, when trying to start engine, it will not attempt to start, just like the switch is off, with test light touching- negative side of coil, test light will come on with switch on, any advice would be helpful, THANKS. SUBSCRIBED.

[@wrenchingwithrob6001]

@@williambutler8624 Thanks for the comment! I would need some more info on the kit you’ve installed to troubleshoot it. Remember, most Model As are positive ground so everything is “backwards” from what we are used too. Hopefully your kit is for a positive ground, it makes a difference. Also, make sure the wire under the timing plate is not shorted to ground, it’s easy to do. Check for continuity between the coil + and your connection at the electronic ignition, you could be losing it there as those connections can short. Finally, I would use a test light to test the functionality of the new electronic ignition at the + side of the coil. After disconnecting the wire at the coil, place your test light (use an incandescent bulb test light, they will test the amperage ability unlike LED and volt meter systems) at the wire coming from distributor to coil. It should blink when cranked but showing continuity to ground most of the time only showing open when the coil is to fire. On the old system, when the points open the primary coil field collapses and the coil discharges sending a high voltage spark from the secondary winding. Your new system replaces the points with some kind of Hall effect pickup that “senses” when the distributor shaft is in the right spot similar to when the points would open. Sorry, long read, hope this helps.

[@williambutler8624]

​@@wrenchingwithrob6001 The ignition system I installed is from FS IGNITIONS, there is 3 wires coming from distributor, yellow, black, black with white stripe - the black goes to ignition switch, black with white stripe goes negative side of coil, the yellow wire goes inside of Model A grounded to lower right side at terminal box, there is 2 extra wires - 1 red, about 6 inches long, it hooks to + side of coil, then is also grounded to firewall with yellow wire, a black wire with fuse, it hooks to ignition switch where existing red wire is, other end hooks to battery on- negative side, that's how instructions said to wire, that's exactly how it's wired, I will be working on it some more this week, can I have your email address where I can send you future updates, THANKS .

[@wrenchingwithrob6001]

@@williambutler8624 [e-mail]

[@dannyenos9236]

If you are entering the Model A Ford hobby leave electronic ignition alone! Period! First of all they are not really more efficient and give you no warning when the quit - and they do. Read Ford Barn online and see how people are trashing them. The coil induction system that Henry and the fellas designed pump 40,000 volts across the gap in your plugs. Way more than your need even if you are running a higher compression head such a Brumfield or police. The "Model A" distributor that the gentleman presents has been modified with modern points. That's fine, but just know it is not true Model A. If you buy or own a Model A you will most likely end up touring or driving with other Model A-ers. Another reason for sticking with standard coil induction ignition is this. If you or someone else end up with an ignition problem there will be plenty of people, with parts on hand, who will be able to help you fix it in a jiffy. The parts and procedures are time tested and true, widely known, and have been used by millions for decades. Not so electronic ignition. The standard Model A ignition system is simple and highly generic. I've driven thousands of miles in all kinds of terrain and weather and the ignition system works fine. Instead of investing time and money in proprietary electronic equipment that no body can help you with when it goes bad, learn how to properly maintain your Model A's coil induction system. Take the little bit of time it takes to look up the specs. Pop for a $30 copy of Model A Mechanic by Les Andrews, or one of the other authors who know what they're talking about. The standard Model A Ignition system is not hard to learn, maintain, and adds a lot to the hobby.

[@wrenchingwithrob6001]

While true, I have modified my system with a newer version of points, the components I selected are the same as any 1953 through 1972 Ford ignition system. They are not proprietary by any means and are much easier to obtain. I guess it doesn't matter what the content of a video contains, someone will always have an opposite opinion. Thank-you for your input.

[@peteashleyleavell9181]

I hope you get this fast enough I'm not a jeep guy nor am I a old jeep guy I have a 1987 jeep wrangler 4.2 with a Manual transmission in my shop with a starter grinding issue apparently its pretty common I can't seem to fix this dam thing i can't the starter to mesh right with the flex plate anything helps thank you.

[@wrenchingwithrob6001]

I am about to get back into it soon. I will check my starter and see what p/n it is. Far as I can tell, it's a Ford small block style starter. Has any work been accomplished lately on the transmission or flywheel? How are the teeth? Which transmission do you have? Is it the Peugot 5 speed? Sorry for all the questions and don't mean to insult your mechanical intelligence.

[@peteashleyleavell9181]

@@wrenchingwithrob6001 honestly unsure what trans it is i will look tomorrow but replaced clutch and flywheel due to starter wear on the ring gear it is not a factory flywheel but has a 164 teeth and all dimensions seem to be the same put a 3209 bbb starter on it I have found out today that there is an option for a flywheel shim .025 that was not on it when I removed flywheel not sure if that is my issue .