Modeling Buried Track and Crossings (Part 1) | River Road - Vlog #68

This is a comprehensive tutorial on how I model pavement surfaces, parking lots, crossings, and buried track. I also include some commentary as well.
DISCLAIMER: I pay for all the products and materials I use in this video content, unless otherwise stated. I do not receive any affiliate sponsorship, fees, funds, support, or gifts from Golden products, and/or any other companies, I recommend. I only endorse them for the benefit of the community and my own personal use.

[@PeterTillman3]

Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow! Thank you Peter! Much appreciated. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁👍

[@michaelimpey1407]

Boomer, I am working my way back through your older episodes. Great technique here for roads, asphalt, contrete in and around your tracks. Thank you for even more great techniques., Cheers, and stay safe, Michael

[@boomerdiorama]

This method takes a little extra work because I just don't like smearing plaster on my track, etc. The advantage is it is easy to cut and machine, it is lightweight and stable. I can also drill and cut into it for revisions without worries of cracking, crumbling, etc. Furthermore, when it is sealed with varathane it takes paint washes well.

[@josephcosta5161]

I knew you were a teacher..,.. wish I had you back in the day but you taught me a lot just through your videos, joe

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing Joe. Much appreciated! Cheers! ~ Boomer 👍

[@chabsyt4367]

Hey Boomer, I typically never comment on videos but now I just feel I have to. I'd like to just say thank you. You are a true inspiration and a great asset to this community.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for taking the time to comment. Did you check the community tab as well? I post frequent updates there that never make it to video. Cheers.

[@elmete8]

Fantastic content, and thank you so much for all the time and effort, as well as craftsmanship and artistry, that you put into these videos. I've only recently found your channel, but there are so many aspects that you cover that will be of tremendous help to me starting out on a revised and much reduced layout - buried track; chain link fencing; signals; scratch building techniques. You're now my go-to channel for expertise. So many times already I've thought "Good grief, you *can* do that" or "*That's* how that can be achieved." Thanks again.

[@boomerdiorama]

I really appreciate your contribution to the channel by sharing your thoughts' and inspiration. The subscribers really cover the comments here and it is a fantastic mature community as well. Welcome aboard! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@vincentcloutier1890]

As a model railroad beginner, video tutorials like yours are absolutely priceless!!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the modeler's community!!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Welcome Vincent! Happy to have you aboard! This hobby gets better all the time regardless of where each individual is at. Keep at it and you will grow in leaps and bounds! ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@kevinarnold4007]

Wow! You hit me with the statement "way beyond painting a canvas" and I dig it. I'm a painter using some of the same materials, and if I wasnt painting on canvas and panel I would be doing this! In fact watching your videos actually lends itself to where I want to take my painting eventually. Love your work!

[@boomerdiorama]

That sounds great! I used to paint on canvas as well many years ago. When I found this medium I was hooked! Cheers and thanks for sharing. Keep painting my friend. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@johnnymartines2118]

Oh man my dog ate my assignment!! Great stuff Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . right . . . that dog. ;-)

[@williambryant5946]

Awesome techniques. It's fun watching you do this and its teaching me because I'm enjoying it so much. Class dismissed. LOL! Stay well. -Wil 👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@Panzermeister36]

I have some roads and trackwork to be embedded in pavement on my railroad. Previously I was only considering using plaster, but this looks much more forgiving and it would be a process without any rushing involved, like if plaster was setting. I was also concerned about getting plaster on the sides of some buildings I have in the parking lots...well that won't be an issue if I use this technique too. Thanks for sharing with us!

[@boomerdiorama]

Check out the community tab for follow ups on the process. It's not near finished yet. I post frequent updates there that never make it to video. ;-)

[@boomerdiorama]

Please check the community tab for frequent updates on the (on-going) modeling process. I post frequent updates to previous videos that never make it to video.

[@tas7997]

What is the community tab? Not familiar. Awsome modeling!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@tas7997 It's on the channel home page and free to all subscribers: Scroll down infinitely: kzbin.infocommunity

[@tas7997]

@@boomerdiorama Oh ok. Thanks!

[@kensomething379]

So glad I found this video! I have a large section of my layout that will be modeled after parts of the city I grew up in. I've been dreading the " and now you apply the plaster like this" part, basically because it's messy, unrealistic, it does not seem forgiving and if you "mess up" there goes an afternoon (or three or four) chipping out plaster... I will have a fair bit of road work and parking lots and using your approach especially in the long run, I think... I know... will save me time with a phenomenal outcome. Plaster=stress from my perspective, your method seems relaxing. I'm looking forward to working on my roads now! Thanks you!

[@boomerdiorama]

The method (with balsa wood) is very relaxing. Only a few anxious moments to spread glue and put the balsa sheet down with weights. The advantages: Primarily, it is super light weight and you can sand it down later, distress it, machine it, texture it, seal it, cut sections out of it easily, etc. I just layed a new section (parking lot) with 1/8th balsa wood and can't wait until it's finished. Right now I am laying very thin texture layers, etc. I will cover some of it soon! Cheers and thanks for sharing. ~ Boomer.😁

[@harperlarry49]

I flew RC for many years as well. Gas then to electric. Ended with large gliders. Turned out I liked building planes more than flying them. Almost the same with model railroading. I really like the effects you were getting with the washes. That looks really great. Cheers - Larry.

[@boomerdiorama]

The best part for me as a builder and a flyer in RC was the maiden flight. The feeling of uncertainty upon takeoff and trim was exhilarating because one never knew what might happen - bad servo, brown out rcx, failed esc, ect. Just a riot though until the Canadian government squashed the whole local park flyer thing.

[@harperlarry49]

@@boomerdioramaYeah, fingers crossed during take off and the first turn to get her coming back at you to begin trimming. We are very lucky down here because we have a large dry lake just outside of town. Nobody knew much about the activity on the lake bed, so we never had any problems. The local RC club has been flying there since the '50s. My dad was a founding member of that club.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@harperlarry49 I scratch built a beautiful flying Catalina (Flying Boat) with two brushless out runner motors. It was one of the most beautiful flying models I ever built. The wing tip floats retracted as well. Just a joy to fly. I wish I still had it. I sold it to European fellow. I hope he never crashed it. If I can find a pick I'll post it in the community tab. ;-) Cheers.

[@harperlarry49]

@@boomerdiorama That must have been a fun build.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@harperlarry49 Check the Community Tab. ;-)

[@phixer64]

Hey Boomer Another fantastic tutorial, video. It’s coming along really good. Regards Jeff

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks 👍

[@shanestrains4724]

Due TOMORROW?!? I better get cracking. 😳😂

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . double spaced please . . . lol. ;-)

[@benoitevellin8796]

Thank you for sharing your technique using balsa. I never thought about it, I'm keeping it in mind for an upcoming project as it is a very clean option. For my parking lot, I went with very fine plaster of Paris that I sanded (what a mess!). I then colored it with washes of Vallejo cement grey. I'm impatient to see the final color of your pavement. Mine is lighter than yours, and the plaster makes it being very "N-scale concrete". That's the beauty of our hobby: so many techniques to achieve the same thing! :)

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. Many techniques to achieve the same thing. Using balsa wood is a clean and ultra light approach to this subject for sure. You can also use most woods like panel boards, Masonite, Styrene Plastic, etc. as well, if you prefer to avoid plaster. ;-)

[@benoitevellin8796]

@@boomerdiorama I made some test with balsa, and I need to get used to it. Besides the material you use, you also have to get a good feeling when using it.

[@patmccarthy1624]

I have no words. . . . Thank you for another master class in scenery.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. It's always fun to do the first part . . . lol. Now I need to complete the whole parking lot. I'll be busy for a bit. ;-)

[@MidtownSun]

There are a LOT of good lessons to be learned in the narrative - I’d encourage people to turn on captions. For the originator - just a note (you can tell me to go pound sand) - a quick summary recap is just that… QUICK. I’m gonna subscribe to get some more of these great tips. I’m shocked that a stage design artist can make such fine details in 1:87 scale - nicely done sir!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks' for sharing and taking the time to subscribe! "A quick summary recap," can be deceiving when it get lost in post production . . . lol. I don't like to do voice overs because they come across artificial and I loose the "over the shoulder" live feel of things. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@4everdc302]

Ahhh an old GMD GP9. Just look like a locomotive ya know lol. Ranks in the same spot as an F Unit 🚂🇨🇦

[@boomerdiorama]

;-)

[@donsunden5906]

Thanks for another class teach! I look forward to the next one

[@boomerdiorama]

You bet!

[@kraigdevries9639]

I am gaining so much knowledge from your videos. i have been looking into ways to do roads and parking lots for my layout. Didn't want to do the plaster method. Definitely going to try this. i enjoyed the bible verse you had on your work surface.

[@boomerdiorama]

I am glad to hear you are inspired. Make sure you check the "community tab" on a regular basis. I update there often. Have fun! God Bless.

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

Once again , as they say you've knocked it out of the park, timed is perfect as I didn't think to use balsa . You old fox now the truth comes out , I had to have a bit of a giggle regarding flying RC planes. Guilty as charge yes Imp still fly but as you know it all weather dependent was into large helis (TREX 800) but decided to go fixed wing last plane built was a 1700mm WACO Biplane converted from glow plug to electric. Still doesn't come close to modeling model railroads at least you can do that in any weather and the big bonus is the buggers don't fall out of the sky lol. You've even got the good wife all wound up, she was watching you make tree and wants to start making them as well what can I say .

[@boomerdiorama]

I had to give up a few trees for my wife as well . . . lol. She loves them. Cheers.

[@thecnwmondovilinepaulscota7304]

Can't wait to try this technique on my future PLZ&W layout! The results in the Community tab are quite nice!

[@boomerdiorama]

Have fun! It's a good basis for learning about textures and layers. Each person may do it differently. Either way the results can be surprising. Cheers.

[@schadowolf]

Well done tutorial! Thanks for sharing, learning a lot from your channel!

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome, thank you!

[@brenttucker7592]

Boomer...the best quote yet “It hogs as easy as butter!”” Awesome! Enjoyed the episode!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@frenchustube]

The look on her face!😂😂

[@boomerdiorama]

😁

[@joesignorio2991]

Thank you teach,I will give lt a whirl.Balsa is alot easyier to remove for mistakes than plaster is,and not as messey.Can not wait to give it a try!

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. Balsa is very easy to machine, revise etc.

[@ericp6612]

Great technique, thank you for sharing, in the past I have used plaster or woodland scenic product to make roads but this seems like it is much cleaner and lighter. The painting 9of the parking lot turned out great!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks. This method is much cleaner and lighter. You can also stop at anytime without wasting product as well. It won't crack and is easy to cut into as well. Cheers.

[@royreynolds108]

Looks good. One observation though, asphalt does not form sharp angles unless against something hard, boards, concrete, etc., inside or outside corners. Depending on the paver, the lines of each pass most often show as a slight discoloration of the adjacent surface. I am not trying to knock your work but just give something to notice when driving or traveling. Usually paving machines come in 6, 8, 10, 12, or 14-foot widths depending on where the paving is going-roads, streets, parking lots, or paths(walkways) which are 6 ft. Sometimes the roller lines also show but not if the pavers are watching what they are doing.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing! Cheers.

[@PeterTillman3]

Wow. I thought that the water technique was a game changer. This method for creating ash felt/concrete parking lots and roads is mind blowing! The thought of putting down a realistic road surface for street running or just road surfaces in general has I think caused me the most angst out of any part of the hobby. You just made it so less intimidating 😀 and the results are perfect. I have seen so many layouts on KZbin with botched roadways, parking lots etc that I really was worried about tackling this part of the build. Thx again Boomer for sharing your incredible skills and methods. Btw - what scale ballast do you use? I seem to recall it being covered previously in a tutorial but thought I would ask.

[@boomerdiorama]

The ballast is coarse dirt I found and sifted. Bring a spoon and heavy zip-lock bag when you go out for a walk down your favorite trail. ;-) Did you check the community tab as well? I post frequent updates there that never make it to video. Cheers.

[@PeterTillman3]

@@boomerdiorama always Boomer:)

[@richardsmith4147]

Wow, I can’t express the inspiration. It’s so cool of you to share and teach for us. You are appreciated and I look forward to trying some of this.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are so welcome! I am always happy to hear how people feel inspired to model after watching. Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@2012Bougie]

Another very cool vid and tutorial. Many thanks for the inspiration

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@vincenthuying98]

Boomer, thank you very much for just another absolutely beautiful and marvelous video on painting surface. The Golden products wishlist only expands. And yeah, modeling is all about creating the illusion. Into the zone as a little kid watching the world with new eyes. Thanks very much for sharing. Cheers Vince

[@boomerdiorama]

You are very welcome!

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Awesome ♐ CHEERS from New Jersey USA 🇺🇸

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers to you as well from Fort Langley, Canada.

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

@@boomerdiorama 🍾👍👍👍

[@bobainsworth5057]

I knew when I started watching your videos I'd be sorry. I have great timing. Everything is done( stage 1 ) . I've always planned on stage two and maybe three. I see I've done everything ,not wrong, but not the better way. The great thing is you show how to " fix" things so stage two will be longer but soooo much better. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

[@boomerdiorama]

We can always go back and make another pass (layer) over our layouts as a sort of progressive update. I do it as well, because I think we never stop learning things in this wonderful hobby.

[@Caspiankhw]

Thank you Boomer, every episode is wonderful, truly fulfilling to me. Today I jumped and saw: "Rejoice and be exceedingly glad, for great is your reward in heaven, for so they persecuted the prophets who were before you." Amen Always looking to the next one, my good sir :)

[@boomerdiorama]

Wonderful! ;-) God Bless

[@boriskucke7053]

Great Work!!! It´s amazing about the materials you use and how it looks after painting. Thank you for creating so great and inspiring me. Cheers - Boris

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@josephpowell736]

Love your videos. I just subscribed and your track code videos sold me. If I might suggest to you to try spackling compound for roads and concrete. We did a intermodal yard (3x6 feet) and not only did it look great, but was unbelievably strong.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for the subscription! . . . and thanks for the tip!

[@rafaelvoncina6036]

Hey, you had me in seconds just after @24:40! That IS the look! Plus that Varathane trick. You've got hands of gold.

[@boomerdiorama]

You can use (water-borne) varathane with most acrylic paints and latex as well!

[@rafaelvoncina6036]

@@boomerdiorama I'm guessing it's a water based poly-urethane-acyrilic hybrid (like say Tamiya is an alcohol-acrylic hybrid). Used it before as sealant and tinted it with acryilic, yes. You remind me of things I forget I forgot Boomer! LOL. #pushingfifty

[@laspiedrasrailroad]

Also blowing out commercial plank wood grade crossings for styrene planks.

[@boomerdiorama]

Lot's of methods and techniques for sure.

[@pawefiuk9436]

Beautiful work, bravo !!! 👏👏👏

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@deejayjonez599]

Great tutorial!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Dee Jay! Cheers Bro . . . ;-)

[@bertusduiverman4743]

Marvelous!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Did you check the community tab as well? I post frequent updates there that never make it to video.

[@205004gs]

Phenomenal tutorial! Turning wood to concrete right before our very eyes, and with oil and diesel stains, is just mind blowing. Now I can bury the tracks at my train station platform. The paper templates are a super great technique. Great job sir!👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Gene! Take your time, it's fairly easy and safe to do. Cheers!

[@tas7997]

Wow! So impressive! Very cool how you do the paved rails! So awsome! I just use the dry wall plaster. Yuk! Very nice detail! I'm taking notes and learning! Thanks! 👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you and you are welcome. Drywall plaster works a treat as well. ;-) Cheers.

[@mkhgn744]

One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen! Your techniques are great! I will be trying them in the near future. Thank you for sharing them.

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

Hi Boomer that turned out really good. Adding the balsa first and then adding the filler on top really gives it a nice effect. I will definitely give that a go in the future. Top work mate. - Nicholas.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

I'm really likin this too Boomer Dude! TFS, GB :)

[@boomerdiorama]

Rock on!

[@laspiedrasrailroad]

One of my favorite sessions and yes hogging down balsa with top soil on it will work in my dirt filled yard, with track in dirt. This negates having to use all dirt on plaster to bring it up to railhead level. My Boom.

[@boomerdiorama]

I figured you would figure that. ;-)

[@lucasszymanski114]

Another fantastic video, I love watching your concrete layering and weathering technique, dog ate my homework though.

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . Cheers.

[@ronduz1281]

Good work 👍👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

Really wonderful stuff brother. I too have used grout, but I noticed the texture issues, which is why I’d settled on unsanded grout. But I’ve bought quite a few of the Golden products (so make sure you get your kickback, lol), and I’m looking forward to trying them for concrete. Especially for industrial lots, like around a truck scale I’ve got laid out for now. I suspect, and in my testing, I’m sure it’s going to be much easier to get the dynamic effects of wear and damage than is possible with my unsanded grout composite I’ve used to date. Well, I’ve just used the unsanded grout for blacktop, for concrete I’ve used Durham’s Water Putty mixed with some powdered pigment. The Durham’s takes carving in expansion gaps and cracks with dental tools or a #11. All in whatever works for someone. But I have really high hopes for the Golden products for a range of use causes, and I think all that concrete around the scales will be easier with the techniques you’ve showcased here, largely because of how degraded the prototype is. I really appreciate what your sharing, the giving back as you are, I know a lot of others are appreciative as well. We’ve talked a lot about what your doing here on the modeling video chat thing I participate in, enough one of the guys is tired of hearing me say so… but he can suck it up. You have quickly became one of the handful of ‘must watch’ modeling creators on YT. Great work man, and one more time, thanks for all the effort you put in to share it with us. I make videos in our community and I know what effort and time it requires.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Andy. You wrote: "But I have really high hopes for the Golden products for a range of use causes." It sounds to me that you will find great use with the Golden texture paste products. They are a must have in the modeler's kit for sure. Thank you for sharing within the community as well. I know there are so many entering this hobby with so much potential to experience the rewards this hobby offers in spades. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@EL-nc1cs]

Got to wondering if the molding paste would work as a good stucco finish on a model building? I like the texture that it creates. Another awesome series Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Absolutely! Molding paste (textured) works well in any scale. Cheers.

[@luisaraujo4708]

I’m curious if you’ll add expansion grooves to your concrete parking lot surface and how you achieve them at scale. Very informative videos, thank you!

[@boomerdiorama]

The parking lot is asphalt. No need for expansion grooves. Concrete is a different game altogether. Therefore, it requires expansion grooves for different reasons. ;-) Here is a google earth image of the location. No expansion grooves: earth.google.com/web/@49.16071303,-122.94674946,0.23151726a,221.67202047d,35y,0h,0t,0r

[@robertlussenburg1770]

Inspirering and learnful. Thank you! I hope to see a great blue heron in there as well one day! 😉 Cheers!

[@boomerdiorama]

Did you check the community tab as well? I post frequent updates there that never make it to video.

[@robertlussenburg1770]

Not yet, but I will. Thanks!

[@markhuston9250]

I’d very much enjoy handing in an assignment. 😀 you continue to inspire and motivate. Thank you. Since becoming a devoted student of yours I have either attempted or evaluated many of your techniques on my set up. Unfortunately, N Scale does not lend itself well to the kind of detail(s) you produce, even if I had the skill. LOL If I had to do it all over again I would try a shelf layout in HO………………too late now……….

[@boomerdiorama]

That's O.K. I love "N" scale as well. I used to have a layout and tons of rolling stock (1960's) Kettle Valley CPR many years ago. I miss some of it as well. N Scale has many advantages I sometimes miss. This layout would be awesome in N Scale. ;-) Cheers.

[@markhuston9250]

In your estimation, if River Road was scaled down to N, how much detail would have to be sacrificed eliminated because of size I

[@boomerdiorama]

@@markhuston9250 Not much really. Unfortunately, It's my eyesight that fails me with N Scale.

[@markhuston9250]

@@boomerdiorama Mine too…….plus shakey hands create real limits. I find that due to overall size that fine detail is wasted on the viewer. Thanks for the response. You are so attentive to everyone. We’re so fortunate. Mark

[@boomerdiorama]

@@markhuston9250 I get "shakey" hands once in awhile as well. I don't mind it so much in HO Scale when I am doing the weathering thing though. It actually helps some . . . lol. ;-)

[@jonathanwhite2817]

Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You!

[@dougkathydavies3024]

Made in the USA, eh? Excellent! Now if they could only start manufacturing electronic components as well, it would sure benefit the hobby. Absolutely great video!

[@Panzermeister36]

You could, but not at competitive cost, sadly.

[@boomerdiorama]

Politics and Economics will kill any good thing in time unfortunately. - Cheers.

[@dougkathydavies3024]

@@Panzermeister36 I don't buy that argument. The price will gravitate toward what the market can afford or is willing to pay. Now, back to the topic at hand.

[@DisVietVetUSA]

This balsa technic is interesting, never thought about it that way, I do not like plaster, I found a an epoxy thhat was used in driveway repair that that with pretty fine, did not smell and could be trowel and had a moderate cure time, could be painted. But for the life of my and we are talking old here remember the name of this produce.

[@boomerdiorama]

Balsa is light weight as well, which I like.

[@stevenstorey1945]

A great video on forming concrete with balsa wood, and cutting it into tight places along the track! Did you use the same technique making the road along the front of Glover Rd, except with a darker color and maybe using more texture? CHEERS

[@boomerdiorama]

For Glover Road I used one large piece of styrene I had left over from a job. I spray bombed it grey, then spray bottled India ink with a light dusting of earth. That was it! It turned out great. I prefer wood though, because it's easier to cut, sand, etc. You can also use 1/8 Masonite board as well instead of balsa. Cheers.

[@OtterCreek]

Another master class. I would never have considered balsa wood as a medium for an asphalt road. I wonder, do any of your former students reach out to you and thank you for the knowledge you have passed on? I took stagecraft in both high school and college, but I my instructors obviously lacked your knowledge and experience. ~ Dennis

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Dennis. They all moved on. When I left the university I was so blessed by all the cards I received. Even when I read them now, I feel grateful that I had the opportunity to share the creative process with them at such a young age. Cheers.

[@matt-hew69]

"I got these scissors from my wife" Wife: where are my nice scissors I can't find them anywhere! 😄

[@boomerdiorama]

;-)

[@thetrainboard2772]

Much appreciated that you, in words and video, share with these train guys, things we never get anywhere else. Did you have mentors?

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. It depends what you mean by mentors. I grew up around adults mostly so in a sense I always had mentors who taught me that everything worthwhile in life is achieved through hard work and commitment, coupled to failure. Overcoming the failure leads to success and moments of bliss. Naturally, we all want to experience the latter without the former - don't we? I am also well read on the subject since I grew up before social media and practiced my skills obsessively most of my life. Eventually, my interests evolved into a career in film and theater, coupled to museum work and private collections where I was also surrounded by mentors. I hope this helps to answer your question. ;-) Cheers - Boomer

[@thetrainboard2772]

@@boomerdiorama thanks for the detailed answer on you career path and philosophy. As a 6th grader, did my first oil painting, but had no idea a life path like yours was possible. Now as a 73 year old, my 28 year old son flounders, he not realizing that most success is built on what we learn from our failures... and doing, learning something new each day

[@boomerdiorama]

@@thetrainboard2772 For me, the fundamental rule for human existence is inequality. Depression comes when we don't take responsibility for our life. My whole life was full of failure . . . then bliss . . . then failure. My Dad taught me to work hard and fail forward. So I still fail forward . . . Even then, I still love life, and family. Cheers😁

[@ErzgebirgsMoBaHO]

Class made. I'm curious how that looks like. Greetings Tino

[@boomerdiorama]

Did you check the community tab as well? I post frequent updates there that never make it to video.

[@ErzgebirgsMoBaHO]

@@boomerdiorama All right, I'll take a look at that. Thanks for the tip.

[@allenbarnes7202]

I am going to use this on my layout, i have a real tie plate i use for a weight.

[@boomerdiorama]

Prototype tie plates work real well on the modal railroad as well! ;-)

[@thomream1888]

The video Boomer's talking about at 10:15 is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/amjYm3iFoJqqgNk (and it's got some GREAT music!!!) In a hobby where everything seems to cost an arm, leg and kidney, it's nice to find inexpensive options. And it's another modeling skill to master. Thanks Boomer - you da' man!

[@boomerdiorama]

No problem. Cheers ;-)

[@billtimmons7071]

I love this stuff. What is your opinion about using watered down PVA glue over background wash? It's kinda transparent and cheap.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sure thing. It's all personal preference in the end. I prefer matte medium over PVA where it shows. The pavement is also sealed (at this point) with Tamiya XF-86 "Flat Clear."

[@Lsguy74]

love all the information. So many cheaper options than I have used in past. You keep mention verathane. Im sure it somewhere but I might have missed it. What verthane are you referring too? thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

Outdoor Flecto "Satin" Varathane. It's water based, no odor, safe to use, and compatible with most acrylics.

[@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout]

Hi Boomer, I'm working on my textured concrete with the Golden Coarse Molding paste, it's looking great. I didn't notice any expansion joints in your concrete. Can you talk a little about that? I have carved the joints, but I'm having trouble getting the expansion joints darker than the rest of the surface. Might try a dark colored pencil. I tried an India ink wash, but that darkened the entire surface too much. Thanks for your time - Bill

[@boomerdiorama]

I am not modeling concrete. I am modeling asphalt. No expansion joints required for asphalt.

[@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout]

@@boomerdiorama ah, of course. I’m doing concrete, without the dark sea gray. I guess I was thinking of the concrete and cement paint colors, and forgot you were doing asphalt. Senior moment! LOL

[@boomerdiorama]

@@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout"Senior Moment" - I have plenty of those . . . lol.😁

[@user-wy7jc8lf8w]

Hey Boomer, in one of the videos you are using Golden Coarse Modeling paste for the buried track and in this one for the roads you are using the Pumice Gel. Can either be used? For my yard service tracks and area, I have my service tracks buried and then space for the tanks, etc...all with balsa and want to add the texture.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use whatever I have on hand and don't sweat it really. So yes . . . you can use either. Don't be surprised if it shrinks a little though. You can also re-skim things for more texture anomalies which work out in your favor. The world we model is far from perfect like the real world so take advantage of the anomalies that the medium offers. The whole point is to become familiar with proven products through experience, trial and error, etc. If it all comes out looking O.K. in the end then all is well. I find Pumice to be a little more Concrete in texture and Modeling Paste a little more smoother for Asphalt. Just go for it and experience it. You will be fine and discover cool things by using it. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@robertsalido1232]

cut sanding papper to make your scissors super sharp!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for the tip! ;-)

[@beyondDCC]

I didn't notice any reference to getting the track flange way gap right. Just using the NMRA gauge setting for frog flange ways will allow the wheel backs to rub against the median material. It should be even wider (SPAN setting) to prevent that Andy Reichert

[@boomerdiorama]

No. There is a final tutorial (yet to be released) which deals with the NMRA flange clearances concerning the inner slabs. The outer slabs have nothing to do with flanges. The only concern for outer slab clearance is the wheel treads as I clearly explained. Cheers. ~ Boomer.

[@TheGomes412]

I have a question regarding the first notch you make in the balsa wood to get it to fit over the edge of the ties.Do you cut out the edge first and then start sanding it, or do you just start sanding at the edge? I'm not sure how you got the notch in the edge in the first place.

[@boomerdiorama]

Good question. Sometimes I slice away some with a knife. If the curve is concave I slice a little bit with a knife. If it's convex, I let the edge of the sanding block carve it away. It doesn't matter how rough it is because no see it anyway. ;-)

[@thetrainboard2772]

Here in pandemic NJ, balsa is expensive and hard to find so far. None in home depot, not in loews, michaels closing all stores here, no hobby shops with 1.5 hr drive. Havent looked on Amazon. Any suggestions? Hobby lobby? I'm o gauge

[@boomerdiorama]

Hobby Lobby or any RC Hobby shop should have 1/8th balsa. What about Amazon?

[@martinsmith5998]

when you were painting when did you know enough was enough because sometimes too much can be applied and spoil the effect?

[@boomerdiorama]

What a great question indeed! - Thanks for asking. What you just described comes with experience. When do I walk away? Even I can overwork a surface as you so correctly described. When I get the notion in my gut I usually stop, leave it for a couple of days , and revisit it with fresh eyes. If it looks like too much, I will lightly sand the surface down some which helps to knock down the offending layer. If it seems too minimal, I apply a very thin light wash of earth and call it done. ;-). Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@PeterTillman3]

Hi Boomer - I am no carpenter so I guess if the hogging went horribly wrong and I gouge the balsa, I could fix it with either styrene or sculptamold? Or even Pumice Gel?

[@boomerdiorama]

Sure. Anything can be fixed really. I cover up mistakes all the time. ;-)

[@PeterTillman3]

Thx Boomer. Really appreciate your help

[@thetrainboard2772]

I'm o gauge, do you suggest a medium coarse pumice for o scale for my asphalt on balsa. Or stick with fine pumice? Its my 1st time using golden. Id prefer to not buy both, since, im a rookie burning thru money for airbrush, vallejo, tamiya, although money well spent ..gary j

[@boomerdiorama]

In your case I would go for the Golden "Fiber Paste" #3240-S / Series C for the O scale pavement. Furthermore, the "Fiber Paste" is more versatile for other textures as well. You can also thin it with water. I use it more than any other product.

[@phillipgrey]

What size balsa wood do you use for your redwood trees. Please let me know.

[@boomerdiorama]

I used scrap from 1/8" sheet balsa. I then cut long triangles to glue (CA) to dowel at base. It also helps to extend them a little beyond the bottom as well. If you shop around local hobby shops, etc. you might get lucky and find a bundle for cheap. Lot's out there but just need to find it. ;-)

[@phillipgrey]

@@boomerdiorama What's the width of the dowel rod?

[@boomerdiorama]

@@phillipgrey 1/4" or 3/16" oak filed down to suite. When it gets dirty, just stroke it a few time with sand paper. ;-)

[@TheLocutus70]

Where did you get the rail and tie plate?

[@boomerdiorama]

I found the Tie Plate lying beside an abandoned spur. My brother used to be a Manganese frog welder for Great Northern, so he made this rail anvil for me. ;-)

[@Wilett614]

I DOUBT those Scissors are made in the USA ? unless they are Wiss or a Surgical grade of Scissors which I use : ))

[@boomerdiorama]

They are made in U.S.A. It's stamped right on them (unless they lie). They are stainless steel as well. ;-)

[@royreynolds108]

@@boomerdiorama Quite likely 30 years ago.

[@TheLocutus70]

Now that's a weight.

[@boomerdiorama]

;-)

[@petermenningen338]

Buy your wife a new pair of scissors, those were her sewing pair and you NEVER cut paper with sewing scissors !!! This is why you never rob someone elses tools or Kitchen appliances for your hobby.

[@boomerdiorama]

She gave them too me with joy. ;-)

[@Coreyhkh2]

Thanks! You have help me so much

[@boomerdiorama]

Happy to help! Thank you for the gracious contribution as well! Cheers ~ Boomer.