Modified UNI-T UT-210E for Higher Bandwidth and Adjustments

[@whitehoose]

I'm very impressed with what I've seen .... trouble is I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at. Joe TELLS us what the problems are with the kit, then shows us with meter and 'scope how much he's improved the kit. It's a little like telling us how nice chocolate is. Here's a box, inside is a very dim bulb ..... Now here's the same closed box but after a lot of effort the lux meter clearly shows that the bulb inside is now 20 times brighter! See - bye! The bit in the middle - showing just HOW that improvement was achieved seems to be missing. And some of the replies asking for detail on the what and the how seem to be dismissed as not worth a reply I'm sorry but I don't get the joke. I think it would be far more informative to let the magic smoke out of the lamp and show exactly how the pixies wrangled the electrickery to achieve this miracle of engineering prowess. Also all the viewers can safely order, dismantle and ruin their own meters knowing what might have been.

[@javierpallalorden]

Hi Joe, thanks for the video, why not show us the improvement add-on board that you made for the UT-210E?

[@wadehicks9270]

Well...There's one thing about it, wether this mod will be a benefit or not that I'm not sure about, what it proves is you made the meter a whole heck of a lot better than it was and it also proves you know your stuff when it comes to electronics lol. So I'd say job well done Sir. Great video and thanks for sharing what you did 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@NicksStuff]

I didn't understand a thing but I did like the video. The idea of unleashing the potential of something is damn cool.

[@jackwhite3820]

I would love to do those changes to my UT210-E. Do you have a documentation of what you did, Joe? Would be awesome.

[@NoName-bt3oy]

Great vid as always Joe. You channel deserves so many more subs and views, hope you get them.

[@amorim317]

NoName Agree

[@MOAllDa]

You are admirably smart. Wish I knew half of the things you know. Respect

[@smash7777-]

Where and when did you first learn all this stuff Joe? I know I can learn how to do this part by watching your video but I mean where did you learn what all this stuff means and how to do these things in the first place. It's very inspiring for me to want to learn more outside the box stuff. Where did you learn that you needed this particular kind of magnet to sort the meter out and then how to make the magnet and use it effectively to tune the meter right in. It makes my mind boggle! Worth a tip of my hat for sure! 👍

[@marcofranceschini7214]

Beautiful degaussing unit Joe...

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Thanks

[@JackZimmermann]

Great video as usual. Any thoughts about a video of the modifications? Is it worth it, or is it just for shits and giggles?

[@AxelWerner]

did i missed something?! where is the bandwidth Mod ?

[@lbeau819]

He said in another of his videos.

[@GreatJoe]

So, just switch out the op-amp for a better one and recalibrate the bias on it?

[@simonspeaker]

NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...

[@vytautassl8379]

Hi, Joe. Would you be kind to provide a schematic for the changes you made? Then this post would certainly qualify for a "like". By the way, there is a similar model UT211B which goes down to 0,1 mA resolution. Would that be possible to similarly modify?

[@ciprianwinerElectronicManiac]

You only get 0.1mA resolution on AC current mode. It would be nice on if it would be on the DC current range. Cheers.

[@JustMM1]

Okay so I design switching power supplies. So you showed me the usual standard fancy stuff. How does any of this help me do anything positive to my meter that I bought.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

You should NEVER do anything to alter a safety device and this channel is not here to help you do such a thing. Assuming you are actually a designer, I would expect you to roll something out much better than I have shown in this video.

[@user-tf4he7mh8m]

The device UT210 came with aliexpress, one of the posistors wmz12a will burst. Measured their resistance 1.4 kom. I can not find such anywhere. Do not tell me its value or can link where to buy?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

UT210 was fairly inexpensive. Just could buy another.

[@samsami9014]

great video joe, that was so informative especially the OP AMPS, cause in fact i teared down a cheapy clamp meter 6 days ago just to see how it's exactly measuring the current throw the op amp, and the reason i need it is for my project for overload protection circuit, for example at 40 amp of withdrawing current i need the circuit to deactivate the transistor circuit that driving the coil relay. if you have any thoughts on how to translate the reading from the OP AMP to a 3 digit 7 segment display so i can implemented in the circuit to see the total current load on relay contact by measuring the voltage drop on the CT, it would be very helpful, i'm using an LM324 for the ADC process and to amplify also the current coming from CT thanks for the efforts

[@zapszapper9105]

So you adjust screws VR4 and VR+ to get zero volts change with the meter sent to DC current when you turn it around. You then use the VR- screw. to make the meter read zero??? What is the advantage of doing this?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Minimize the external effects and allow full range.

[@supermanreturns3659]

Did you modify the backlight time out ? from factory setting is very short

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I don't believe so.

[@timothy790110]

I just got the voltcraft 335 which is the same as this, just rebranded. I got it to check my solar setup on my van, and various dc draws. But people are saying the clamp function is worthless and "only good for hanging it off your belt". They offer no further info than this (always annoys me) but are they correct?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I would guess I know of about 10 of these now in service (people I know). The only meter that has had a problem is one that I use a fair amount. The switch started to become intermittent and required cleaning after about a year of service. I bought it because for the 1mA resolution DC clamp. It's the only function I use it for. You can always point these people to the videos I have posted about this meter. Maybe this will prompt them to explain their posts. Here are a few others: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6u4g4GBeZ1or9E kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpjLnX2Yl89ppqM

[@timothy790110]

joe smith thanks for the reply Joe! So I can be happy with my purchase?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@timothy790110 I can't justify your purchases nor can I tell you if any product will meet your needs or not. That's your job as a consumer to do you research BEFORE you buy. What I can do is offer you and others the bits of data I have collected from looking at these meters.

[@timothy790110]

joe smith Hehe, yes of course! Thanks for the reply!

[@TheHWcave]

Hi Joe, love the video. Can I use the stills of the clamp taken apart in my own upcoming video on the UT210E? I would of course credit you and provide a link to your video.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

That's fine. Good luck with your video.

[@TheHWcave]

@@joesmith-je3tq Many thanks.

[@MAYDAYDEEJAY]

Pretty impressive improvement Joe. Came across Your video as I was looking for cheap / possibly DIY current transducer that could sense 500A@50kHz. Got to admit, Your vid is pretty eyes opening ! Thanks for the effort.

[@fohdeesha]

Mark Masterson what are you measuring at 500a/50khz? sounds fun

[@joesmith-je3tq]

LEM may have something DC to over 50KHz at 500A at a reasonable price.

[@milesk7465]

He is a wizard

[@joeh690]

Good Lord. I'm getting one of these I'd like to adjust it close to zero as possible too but I have no means to modify it or the equipment. Basically how can I just adjust it to zero as easily as possible like you did

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Press the Zero button. Problem solved.

[@hdatg]

Hello Joe! You know a lot about this current claps and I've found tons of useful information on your channel! Do you have any info about the two WMZ12A PTC thermistors from the input? One of them is broken on my UT-210Eand I cannot find any specifications regarding them..

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Funny, I type in WMZ12A ptc in Google and the first hit is the data sheet. I would not have any information outside of what is in the datasheet.

[@hdatg]

I have also found the datasheet ... and then it was when the fun began. I've discovered that WMZ12A is only the device class and the rest of the specifications (and the more important): Switch temperature, R 25 resistance, Max Non Operating Current are chosen by each customer depending on the application. The complete code for the UT-210E should be something like: WMZ12AAS where - = Switch temperature - A = Chip dimension (resulted from measurements) - = R 25 resistance - = Resistance tolerance - = Max Non Operating Current - S = Straight pins Unfortunately, UT-210E is my only multi-meter and by being broken I cannot measure any other value in order to determine the correct code for buying a replacement. I thought maybe you can help me with the values for the missing parameters, because when you conducted the "GDT vs MOV" test you selected a YQD100N1000 based on the measurements you did on a DMM that passed the tests...

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Have you tried contacting UNI-T? Maybe they would repair it or could supply you with a replacement part. Another option may be to post your question on the EEVBLOG site under the UT210E thread.

[@Via4esla]

Hello. What is the name of your video where you made the degaussing box?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I don't believe I ever made a video about it. I only posted about it on eevblog.

[@andreasmeyer9011]

Hallo, interessantes Video. Hast du eine Idee welcher von den 3 Potis für den Gleichspannungs Abgleich zuständig ist. Mein UT210E zeigt von Anfang an bei Gleichspannung etwas zu viel an. Eine Volt Referenz habe ich. Ich weiß eben nur nicht welcher Poti dafür zuständig ist. Gruß

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Hallo. Es gibt keine mechanischen Einstellungen außerhalb der Klammer. Der Rest ist alles in Software. Die Tabellen werden in ein kleines EEPROM geschrieben.

[@zapszapper9105]

Excuse the dumbish questions but Whats analog band width? Whats DB down ? , Is it Log of frequency or some thing? Whats the advantage of extending the band width from 5 to 100 K Htz.?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Google -3dB and start reading. Advantages of extending the bandwidth is to make to meter useful for applications that require it.

[@angelesoze8642]

Thank Thank i

[@soldotnastan]

I do allot of handyman type residential wiring which includes mostly 120V and 240V in attics and crawl spaces. Is there a way to make it beep faster/slower or tone different in the NCV function when testing a random romex wire? Making it more or less sensitive I guess. Or, is there a different clamp meter that does that already?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I don't believe so but you should check the manual to be sure. I have not seen one that would change the tone but I have seen some NCV with a sensitivity adjustment. This is the only clamp meter I have looked at.

[@godblessthelessfortunate3175]

Very interesting mod. I bought this model and now wish I had bought one that has a "max" mode to measure inrush current on motors. Is that a feature that can be mod relatively easily? If so, is it a worthwhile mod based on the sampling rate of this model? Wouldn't want to do it if the sampling rate on this meter is so slow that it can't catch the peak of the inrush current.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

That would be a question for UNI-T. I would never suggest anyone ever modify a handheld meter. That said, I would use a scope to look at in-rush anyway.

[@godblessthelessfortunate3175]

Thanks for the prompt response and advice.

[@mfessi]

Sorry for the Newbie Question: The alignment save me time because i did not have to nulling the meter every time before the measurement - right? Or is there another reason?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

DC clamps like this need to be nulled in the lower range no mater how well it is aligned. As I show in the video, there are two reasons for the alignment. Decrease sensitivity and maximize dynamic range. The null button is software only. We need to correct the hardware. I have had this clamp so far out that it read OL in the 2A range even after pressing the null.

[@mfessi]

Thanks Joe for the informations and greetings from Austria!

[@jasoncarel]

Hi joe! Can it really check a hvac capacitor?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

It can measure capacitance. I only use it for a clamp. It's always best to download and read the manual before you buy new test equipment to make sure it meets your needs.

[@nayanjagirdar8408]

Nice teaching sir thanks 👌👍

[@johncoops6897]

Ha ha, an excellent joke! There is no teaching here.

[@ihor_babii]

Clampmeter UNI-T UT-210E do not measure AC voltage,current and NCV. The indicator shows [OL]. What is this fault?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

This is OverLoad and is covered in the manual. If your's shows this in all the modes you mention, it sounds like it's time for a new one.

[@ihor_babii]

@@joesmith-je3tq All range measurements AC. DC measure correctly. Thank you for help.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@ihor_babii No matter, the answer is still the same. It's a disposable meter and sounds like it's time for a replacement. I have yet to use the leads in mine. I only use them for the clamp. The only problems we are seeing so far is the switch fails after a few years of moderate use. If you use your test leads, it's hard to say what it's been exposed to. From my testing, UNI-T has not been very robust electrically.

[@henryrobinson9837]

good video man, you could do a lot for the automotive diagnostic tools like the oscilloscope and amp probes being used now.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

When I first bought one of these and saw it could read down into the mADC, the first thing I though of was automotive. I've since used this clamp three times to check the current draw after the car has gone to sleep. It works very well for that.

[@henryrobinson9837]

@@joesmith-je3tq could a person take GTC cm100 ammeter and add an oscilloscope jack to it,i seen it will read in the milliamp range?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@henryrobinson9837 It's very possible that something like this could be added. The problem I see is that these handheld devices are safety rated and altering the design can make them unsafe. It's better to just buy the correct tools for the job.

[@henryrobinson9837]

@@joesmith-je3tq i've high and low current clamps but always looking for different things ,especially something to help filter noise out of an oscilloscope

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@henryrobinson9837 Your scope can't average?

[@simonspeaker]

very strange that some have all thoses smd caps in a row under the cristal like your and some dont, like mine...

[@joesmith-je3tq]

maximizing profits?

[@manwiththestar2305]

You don't happen to know how to calibate it? Or is the calibration program in the meter (yellow+blue+pwrON) a selfcalibration or factory calibration?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I assume to meant align or adjust the meter, not calibrate or check against a standard. I have no looked into aligning one.

[@manwiththestar2305]

Yes I mostly wondered if I could somehow adjust it to get better results in accuracy/precision. If that's only done though the trimpots? Also if you knew what the "CAL" (yellow+blue+pwrON) is? I have e-mailed UNI-T and requested more information and documentation but I thought you might also know.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

It you watched this video, you are aware what the trim pots are for. You can try adjusting them yourself to get a better idea of the effect they have. I have not looked into aligning one. I am not surprised the UNI-T would not respond to a question like this. You may find that when asking the same question to other companies. I can see people playing with things that perhaps they are not setup to do and then expecting the manufacture to correct their mistakes. Still it does not hurt to ask.

[@manwiththestar2305]

Oh yes I watched the video(very good), that's why I'm here asking. Well no mistakes are made here(yet, haha), but I always have the luck of getting sent to me the one specimen made before closing on fridays in the factory or maybe just it's my expectations are too high o confidence in the readings too low.

[@ronanrogers4127]

Oh Joe...you’re such a tease!!

[@ivan868]

How you modify the probe of the UT-210E?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Meticulously. This is not something a beginner is going to pull off. what you see in this video represents about thirty hours of design iterations.

[@ivan868]

I`m NOT a beginner. Please give more information and schematics, please.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Great to hear your not a beginner. You should show me how to get it past 100KHz then! I'm interested!

[@lukasz_kostka]

What did you do to increase bandwidth ?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

My old friend Behemot from EEVBLOG? Maybe join up and ask your question there so everyone can learn.

[@RaviSingh-xo7my]

bro please tell me does it matter for separate dallier like in this meter has option 2A, 20A and 100A ? and many meters has only option like 1000 ad/dc amps. there is no short option like 2,20amps. so does these types(1000ac/dc) of meter are not more accurate in mili or short amps like 1,2amps ?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Normally, a 1000A meter is not going to have the resolution to read 1mA without changing ranges.

[@RaviSingh-xo7my]

thanks for reply joe

[@ferrumignis]

Does adjusting the null and offset trimmers affect the current clamp calibration?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I believe it only effects the meter's sensitivity to orientation and the offset. You will zero out the offset on each use anyway.

[@ferrumignis]

@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks, going to give this a go as mine has a pretty large offset even after degaussing.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@ferrumignis I have adjusted three meters and was able to improve them. The one adjustment is very sensitive.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Make sure to use a diddle stick and not a screwdriver.

[@stevec5000]

What's the point of increasing the bandwidth if you are just going to be measuring 60 Hz current anyway? Do you have some other use for the meter?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

It's naive to think that high BW current probes have no use that that no one looks at signals beyond 60Hz.

[@stevec5000]

So what other kinds of current are you going to be measuring?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

There are no other kinds of current but there are much higher frequencies than 60 Hz. But, let's just consider the 60 Hz AC power feeding my house. If you have a look at IEC 61000-3-2, they will require you measure 40 harmonics out. That's getting up there. In this video, I show using my oscilloscope along with a computer to make these measurements. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmWsaKF-dsR7rq8 In this video I show a few different ways to measure higher frequencies. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3KkaqKnfayIp6M In this video, I modified my old Tektronix current probe to work up to 90,000,000 Hz.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Here is the P6042: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJebq6Kvd92csNU Here it is in operation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIe8aqRrf817frc

[@joesmith-je3tq]

If you want to see some even higher frequency measurements, in this video I was attempting to design a generator that puts out a 15 ampere pulse in under 1ns. That's 0 to 15 amps in less than 0.000,000,001 seconds. To do this I am using an oscilloscope that samples 20,000,000,000 times per second. A tad over the 60 times per second we started out talking about. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5rQpatur5t5i7M

[@meerscan9101]

what solder gun you use for boards?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I use a Pace SODR-TEK ST-45.

[@Dennis-mq6or]

I solve the offset problem by pressing the zero button while the meter is clamped on and is taking it's measurement. Then when I remove the clamp, the meter shows the correct value but in the opposite polarity.

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I don't understand what this procedure solves. Sure, it inverts the reading but what was the point of it?

[@Dennis-mq6or]

@@joesmith-je3tq It cancels out the offset you get between when you zero the meter and what the offset might be when you take the actual current measurement, no matter what the orientation of the meter, There may be a little error creep in if you move the meter before zeroing it. But pressing one button after the measurement was taken seemed to introduce lot less offset error than zeroing it and then letting it go to start the measurement. It's really hard for me to explain and may have just been a figment of my imagination. It won't hurt you to try it...

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@Dennis-mq6or Ok, so the claim is zeroing the meter prior to installing the clamp versus after will add error to the measurement. I would imagine, the act of having to hold the meter to press the button will also introduce an error. So will temperature, outside disturbances and other.. So far, I have not ran into a problem using the cheap meter besides seeing a high failure rate in the switch. I did cause one of my meters to have enough offset that it could not be zeroed which was the reason for constructing the degausser. For $30, I've more than received my moneys worth.

[@Dennis-mq6or]

@@joesmith-je3tq . I like the meter and use it often. I use it to measure very small currents that are probably in the range of the ambiguity of the meter. always less than 10 ma, and often 1 to 3 ma. I have other current clamps that interface to other meters, but with that one I only have to carry one item instead of two, and it's hard to find a clamp on that can resolve currents in milliamperes well enough for me to make adjustments to see if current is increasing or decreasing. In those cases, relative measurements in real time are adequate. For critical low current tests, I have to open the circuit somewhere and then insert a resistor. I have a reel of .005 ohm 1% resistors. surface mount 2 watt types. and soldered 5 of them together for a .001 ohm (10 watt and hopefully better than 1%) sense resistor. I use that for low 'burden voltage and low temp drift in the resistor, and make my measurements using the microvolt range of an AN8008 meter. I build really low power solar powered stuff, (or at least I used to before I got sick), and the goal was always increased runtime... Do you know of any sensitive clamp on meters that would be better for that application?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@Dennis-mq6or I have a very old Tektronix P6042 that I saved from the trash, rebuilt with some help from the late Mr Pease and then redesigned to push the BW close to 100MHz. Of course they make much better clamps now. www.keysight.com/en/pd-2877490-pn-N7026A/ac-dc-high-sensitivity-clamp-on-current-probe-150mhz?nid=-32553.1229527.00&cc=US&lc=eng

[@RaviKumar-uy8ss]

Bro in this meter u can measure Dc current without select the Dc option. I mean at Ac dial also. U can check it. Is this a fault??

[@RaviKumar-uy8ss]

Bro plz tell if v select the dial at continuty, diode (instead on voltage mode) and plug the probes in socket then what happen??

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I have never used the probes with this meter. How many volts on this socket that you connect it to?

[@RaviKumar-uy8ss]

joe smith 220 volts

[@RaviKumar-uy8ss]

joe smith bro today i brought this meter. Plz tell me the cases in which meter can be out of order. Like wrong selection of rotary switch etc

[@joesmith-je3tq]

So, 220V AC lines. I doubt the meter is certified for safety and it's nothing I would use for any sort of work like that. If your concern is not safety and just if the meter would survive, it may. I would just read the manual and make sure you understand all of the warnings about how to use it. Obviously you should not be using the meter in anything but the voltage modes when measuring voltage.

[@RaviKumar-uy8ss]

joe smith thanks for reply joye In this meter has a VFC option and when u press and holt the select button on Ac amps or vots it show VFC on and off. So what is the VFC and how does it work??

[@partscience]

Which is better among UT210E and UT256B????

[@joesmith-je3tq]

If you are able to define what "better" means to you, read the manuals for each, then you should be able to answer that for yourself. That's not something I can do for you.

[@partscience]

@@joesmith-je3tq OK

[@partscience]

@@joesmith-je3tq I was questioning about accuracy... in reliability I think 256b!! As certifications!!!

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@partscience Accuracy will be specified in the manuals. For safety certifications, I suggest checking some of the on-line databases. As for reliability, I can't answer that. All of the data I have collected on these meter is available for free, on-line. If the meters you are asking about are not on that list, I have not ran them.

[@lauramitchell3782]

Not sure why you would not share your work? Or why you have to be a sarcastic .......!

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Not sure why you post ....!

[@seandempsey9396]

Uni-t are a good brand They have made a big inprestion in the UK and Europe, all my test instruments are uni-t Exsept for my MFT with ia a ROBIN KTS 1620, I have a uni-t clamp meter a uni-t voltage indicator and a uni-t multy meter I have been using this brend for seven years and I have never had any problems with them, why pay hundreds of pounds /dollars for the likes of fluke mega kewtech and many others when you can get just as good for a fraction of the price from UNI-T

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Good in what way? Sure, they don't cost much. Is that what you mean be good? They never do well against my tests. I know of a few people using the 210E on a regular basis. So far three of them have had switch failures. If I needed something reliable and robust, I wouldn't buy UNI-T. I do like the UT210E but would have gladly paid double for higher quality. I also really like the UT181A but again, it has too many problems.

[@seandempsey9396]

@@joesmith-je3tq I have been using uni-t for the past seven years and have never had any problems of any kind. And they are alot better than the American brand amp probe

[@joesmith-je3tq]

@@seandempsey9396 I would have thought a fan boy like yourself would have know that UNI-T made the Amprobe AM510 I tested early on.

[@seandempsey9396]

@@joesmith-je3tq and amprobe are made by Fluke just proves that they are all made in the same factory in China you only have to look at the design of them at the end of the day they all do the same job and its a matter of personal choice. Just because something was made cheepper in China does not mean that it is inferior take appe iPhone cost about twenty dollars to make in China then apple sell it for a thousand dollars, it cald keeping your costs down and your profits up.

[@seandempsey9396]

@@joesmith-je3tq uni-t have never made any thing for amprobe. They might supply components to amprobe. Just had a look on Google about amprobe very interesting history look it up and I think you will find that the am510 was in fact made by Fluke.. So please let's not tern this into an argument, let's just agree to disagree and Leave it at that, and respect each others opinion.

[@RaviSingh-xo7my]

bro i am gonna for buy Meco 1008 trms clamp multimeter. does it better then UNI-T UT 203 and others ? kindly tell me it's urgent?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

There is an on-line spreadsheet with the meters I have ran along with a FAQ.

[@RaviSingh-xo7my]

i cudn't understand bro.. say in other words my question is that does meco 1008 or 1080 is better then unit ut 203 ?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I don't offer recommendations and I have never ran the meters you are asking about.

[@RaviSingh-xo7my]

ok bro thanks.. then does UT203 best for DC current measurement and accuracy? if i buy this one

[@joesmith-je3tq]

If I have never tested a UT203, how would I know? You need to download the two manuals and compare them.

[@johnconrad5487]

"there is still some effect by rotating it" well you have that lamp right next to it with an iron base....

[@joesmith-je3tq]

"well you have that lamp right next to it with an iron base...." It's always interesting when people post statements rather than ask questions. There is no lamp with an iron base next to it. I suspect you are referring to the high voltage scope probe holder with the aluminum base. Regardless, we just want to reduce the effects.

[@johnconrad5487]

I stand corrected... I thought it has an iron base.

[@soajpg]

thanks for telling us how delicious your chocolate is....

[@joesmith-je3tq]

Your welcome. Why not show us a 200KHz version?

[@soajpg]

and where is that?

[@joesmith-je3tq]

It would be up to you. I expect one day, someone else will come up with a better design than what I have shown.

[@pcb1962]

@@joesmith-je3tq You haven't shown your design. What a stupid person you are, no wonder you have so few subscribers. Watch Mr Carlson, you could learn a lot.

[@MartinE63]

Zero content on the modification. Lost in the edit or just clickbait?

[@fly-lucky]

No none at all. You're right. He's made it pretty clear in other videos that he's not "very forthcoming" about these things. This isn't a channel intended for anyone to learn anything. It's more of a channel where he can show us just how much smarter then Dave at eev blog and everyone else he is.

[@pcb1962]

What's the point of this video if you don't show what modifications you made to the meter? Thanks for wasting my time!

[@joesmith-je3tq]

You're very welcome

[@jeffflanagan2814]

So what exactly are you saying? lol

[@joesmith-je3tq]

It's complicated. Maybe why we don't see many people making changes like this.

[@pcb1962]

@@joesmith-je3tq You really are an unpleasant POS, I'll be sure not to watch any more of your videos.

[@faidularcs]

That manufacturer faults!

[@joesmith-je3tq]

What is their fault?

[@SL7Z62]

JUST BUY A HIGH QUALITY METER ! CAN'T BELIEVE HOW EVERYBODY NOWADAYS WANTS CHEAP CHINA CRAP METERS

[@joesmith-je3tq]

I can't believe how someone can't figure out where the caps lock button is.

[@antoniolucena7304]

In a Hobbist perspective its much more enjoyable to go trough the process, discover, practice and understand with hands on aproach...

[@bernardocisneros4402]

When or how do you use the VFC function? When would it be useful?