Modular Model Railroads: Coffee and Trains Episode 31

[@kenr86]

One other big advantage - the friendship and fellowship you can get combining your modules with other model railroaders. The club I'm in has a large ON30 modular layout (break for advertisement - we will be exhibiting this at the National Narrow Gauge Convention in Hickory, NC at the start of next month), and we travel to various shows around the year. Everyone combines there own modules to make a large layout, and it's really great fun. You learn a lot from other people - someone might be great at some aspect of scenery, or model building, or electronics... and that friendship is one of the big things this hobby is about.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Nice, I’m planning a modular layout 😉 While I’m not building mine to any specific standard my space availability changes quite often so having something that can grow and shrink is necessary. Plus I like testing my building techniques in small sections at a time and additionally it feels good being able to fully complete modules and watch the layout grow over time 😀

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

When it comes to coffee... I’m pretty easy, I like a good quality coffee from the local coffee shop but I’m also fine with some ‘Robert Tim’s’ instant coffee. Black with no sugar for me ☕️

[@TimberSurf]

If you stopped making random diorama's, that take up "space availability", you would have more room for a railway layout! lol

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Ha ha that’s so true 😄 those dioramas are just practice, don’t worry when the times comes those dioramas will make space for a real layout 😎

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

As long as that huge skyscraper you built is somewhere on it.

[@TimberSurf]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad Something you may wish to discuss over coffee, like Luke, I don't really have a working layout, so I too am making diorama's for practice, but mine will be actually incorporated into my layout once I build it. They have a tapered edge, so will fit into a hole in the layout at a later date, also means (as many of them have motorised animation) that they can be subsequently lifted out for easy maintenance/cleaning/repair, without scrambling under the layout upside down or reaching over the layout to access the top. {see my video's of church and windmill}

[@n-scaleunionpacificevansto6569]

Jimmy, I love the concept of modular model railroading. As I understand it, the modules typically are interchangeable, that is, they can be set up in various configurations. By that definition, my layout isn't modular. Rather, it could be described as sectional, because it can be put together in only one way. The sections of my layout, which are typically 4 feet long, are held together by bolts. As such, the layout can be dismantled, if it ever becomes necessary to do so for any reason. ...Roy

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Any layout is modular if you try hard enough.

[@loispadgett6306]

Had not thought of module layout need to look into doing it that way. Will do more research on that. Thanks for the new idea. GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖

[@Ferrocarril_Chicago]

One of the things that's always attracted me about modular model railroads is the fact that they're easier to relocate. After my family moves again I plan to start doing the layout of my dreams in modules so I can easily move it and expand further off of it when I go to get my own place. I'm also soon planning to start on a portable modular HO layout, something that I can hopefully take places such as to community events and such.

[@lloydb6637]

This morning I'm dinking Nespresso Mexico. As always I take it black with no sugar. Ditch the sugar and taste the coffee!

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Liked this very much.Hope there more to come.

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Hi if you get time Have a look at my channel. See what you think. Thanks for your support and time

[@wjcorrinne4052]

Hi Jimmy, I liked your previous video where you displayed your workspace using a 4’x2’ table from IKEA. I’ve been watching several videos from other model railroaders getting many good points on setting up a layout. Being in the high infection crowd I haven’t gone inside any businesses. Getting back into the hobby after being out 40+ yrs, my plan is to build a modular 4’x8’ layout. The reason being ; 1- I’m 73 and won’t be keeping it; 2- I’ll be building it with a daughter & granddaughter who will inherit it; 3- it’ll be set up in my basement as such it needs to be able to take up the stairs. The IKEA tables appear to be a great option as I won’t have to go inside a store to pickup the basic materials for the base. With this I can take the template set I bought and figure a preliminary layout. Then I’ll better know what additional materials I’ll need. This will also allow for expansion at a later date. I like the “dollar store” episodes you put out. I never considered that option when looking to building the layout. Thanks

[@dagryffynhobby]

Good info 👍 makes me think I should have thought a little more about portability before starting my current layout. I also hadn’t thought of the fact that a module could be swapped out for another, that is a really attractive reason to go modular. Whether it be seasonal changes or just to change industries or scenery, sounds like it could definitely keep things interesting. ☕️

[@davidf9630]

Great ideas jimmy… I can connect modules to my 3x6 layout and put it away when I’m done. I just have to pull up some tracks and get a good spot to connect to. Also. Folgers coffee with a shot of “ el llave “ espresso over ice, it’s gonna be 97° today.

[@ericjonboone]

I am planning on a multi-deck HO scale TOMA layout. The finish as you go method goes well with my plan because it will have several somewhat independent switching districts and if all I ever build is the upper level, I'll still have a great layout. Of course, if I move, I can much more easily take it with me.

[@JDsHouseofHobbies]

My next layout is going to be modular (the Campbell Rice approach). Just in case I have to move again.

[@brianpagemodeltrains]

Appreciate the thoughts on modular, Jimmy. I wish I had done a modular layout instead of shelving - My layout will have to be torn down if I move. Watching today with BRCC Liberty Roast, black.

[@davefalkenburg3276]

There is a big social commitment around many types of modular railroading. It works well if you are a people person, or not way out in the boonies. The important thing to consider (especially with Free-mo or Free-moN is to make sure you can transport your modules to a meet) (Drinking a Chameleon Cold Brew on ice)

[@carvanbus]

Love the NYC poster on your wall. My next-door neighbor was a NYC steam engineer who drove the 20th Century from Elkhart, IN into Chicago in the morning and back to Elkhart in the evening. Drinking bottom of the barrel (pot) regular from 7 Eleven black (yuck).

[@charlesmcclure5994]

Well Jimmy this morning I'm drinking pilots medium blend coffee with two splendas and powdered non-dairy creamer

[@JakeSweeper]

I'm doing something similar with my shelf switching layout in that I have some ideas to extend it with some more switching options and industries. :)

[@Mason-DixonRR]

How exact does a modular need to be to prevent derailments and other issues?

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

It depends on whether or not you are using a standard or are doing custom modules. T-Trak is relatively forgiving because of Kato unitrack. Freemo can be tougher. My advice is to build one module and then base all of your modules off of aligning to that one. You can also build jigs for alignment as well.

[@cdjhyoung]

Mason-Dixon RR - connectivity between modules is one of the minimum standards of all modular layout groups. Google a number of them: Freemo HO; Freemo N: T Trak; N-Trak; Bend Track. All will give you detailed standards for connecting your module to the group's other modules. The basics will include where the track terminates on one module and what system connects the track to the next module. N-Trak uses a standard piece of Atlas Code 80 sectional track to span the space between modules, Freemo HO terminates the rails an inch short of the end of the module and uses two pieces of rail, two inches long to span the gap. Freemo N has the rails and track bed run right to the edge of the module and depends on good carpentry and accurate track laying to make the module to module transition work. Equally important will be the wiring standards each group uses. Wire gauge, type and orientation of connecting plugs, DC or DCC. Do some in depth research, you will be delighted by what you find. But start by looking for what groups are actually local to you. Building a module is only half the fun if you don't have a group of other modules to connect it to.

[@thoughtengine]

I seem to be rubbish at baseboards, so I am developing a means of adapting plywood hard canvases for artists to be modules. Also I may be using bridges to connect, as they probably won't be square enough, and modular scenery often fails to connect together anyway, to the point where it looks like the modules don't connect together structurally. Another point is that clubs which allow anyone to come, couple up and run their modules often have scenery that makes no sense at all, and some don't get the idea that they're making a scene that fits into a railway work day, such that the trains end up running through the Mojave desert for three modules and then end up calmly, nonchalantly driving through an urban scene being threatened by an alien invasion, into a snowy Colorado Christmas scene. A better way would be that all agree on the biome represented by their scenery, and the part of the planet being represented. No British trains leaving Indianapolis, passing an American train in Cornwall, and ending up in Osaka. If they want to make a fantastical scene, how about having the trains pass by a ghost town with real ghosts, or near the site of a spaceship landing, rather than through the middle of a pitched battle or disaster, like I see on so many LEGO layouts? Logically that sort of thing would interfere with railway operations. PANA organic hot chocolate.

[@cdjhyoung]

Check out Freemo N. Their claim is that they are 'raising the bar in model railroading'. Having just participated with them in a national show, I would agree they are headed in the right direction. The specification they use are well thought out and create many very useful modules. They have broken away from the 24 inch wide module paradigm. They also are free thinking on if a module needs to be only straight track. Many of their modules are curved as little 15 degrees to get the look of the scene they are after. It does really make for a good modular system to consider.

[@thoughtengine]

@@cdjhyoung I've been communicating online with some Queensland modellers and we're all suitably impressed by what we're seeing of the Sipping and Switching society system.

[@cdjhyoung]

@@thoughtengine The Sipping and Switching Society have some ground breaking ideas that they have been practicing for almost 30 years now. They went after the problem of how long it takes to set up a modular/sectional layout with a great deal of success. Module alignment is accomplished by an alignment jig used as they lay track. It aligns four alignment pegs with the orientation of the three tracks they include on the module. With everything keyed for positioning, it is only a matter of sliding the module together and clamping with a C clamp. They approach legs in another non-standard way. They hinge the legs to the module for permanent attachment. Some of these are standard banquet table legs, others are attached using 'card table' folding leg hinges. Both work, but the banquet table legs offer a bit more stability if you can fit them. To raise the module height to the desired 50 inches, leg extenders are created from 1 inch aluminum pipe sold in the States for shower curtain rods and 7/8 inch hard wood dowels. They also use casters on these legs to make module locating in a set up easier. The S&SS also has explored taking unneeded mass out of modules by building what they refer to as egg crate modules. These are at there most basic level a six sided box with access holes cut into the bottom surface. They contain multiple internal cross and longitudinal support pieces, all made from light weight plywood or luan. Small modules don't benefit as much from this construction method as do the S&SS larger 3 ft x 8 ft modules. In those modules it drops the weight significantly from modules made of normal 3/4 inch plywood while at the same time creating modules that are far more rigid and flex resistant. Some layout set up consideration should be considered. Their leg system can overcome some floor height deformities, but avoiding those kind of floors is more desirable. As long as the venue being used for the display has relatively level floors, life is good. The single aspect of the S&SS modular system I take pause with is that they didn't design their specs to define a ballast strip below the track. As nice as the scenery work they create is, I find this to be a bit of a distraction from the quality of their otherwise excellent work.

[@DCCTRAINLive]

Very nice.

[@mattguey-lee4845]

I did some small layout as a kid that weren't very good. I started doing modular railroading in 2000 and haven't looked back. I'm in n-scale and use t-trak as my standard. There are a handful of companies that make easily built kits that used no tools. Combine them with basic scenic materials make a good looking module. This format has a very low barrier of entry for someone just starting out especially when running in a club setting. I also prefer the club setting with public shows, this allow me to show my work to more people than would be possible if I did a home layout. Sorry I take my coffee clear with no milk or sugar ;)

[@cdjhyoung]

At the three minute mark, I think you are showing pictures of a Bend Track set up. This is a modular system I am fond of for a number of reasons. First, in its 24 inch width, it has two double track mainlines, one along each edge of the module. This gives you twice the mainline run per module than a standard module. With the addition of a backdrop down the middle, each of the sides of the module become separate scenes. This was a standard way to create these modules when the standards were created, but seems to have fallen off in use now. If you are thinking about setting up a continuous run layout at home, adding a return loop to each end of a single module gives you an operating layout in a minimal space. Because these modules are connected end to end with return loops, the actual module length is up to the builder. If you can transport a 55 inch long module, Bend Track can accommodate that module in the layout without any adjustments. My friends and I expanded on what we saw with the N scale Bend Track layout and did something similar in HO. Our layout is single track with passing sidings, and currently has a 400 foot long main line run.

[@cruisinjoe]

I am thinking of building a t-track module to display an N scale McDonald’s (actually a Christmas ornament) I picked up on EBay a while back. As for coffee I am in a rehabilitation center recovering from surgery. They serve this sludge they call coffee with every meal.

[@kensomething379]

I'm kind of sort of doing the same thing with my "permanent" play simply because I know eventually I'm going to have to move due to illness it's going to be built in a 13 by 13 1/2 room, around the walls but I'm going to be able to break it down into smaller areas I might even end up selling the layout I also have a 3 ft x 10 ft N scale layout that I would be quite happy with if and when I have to move for medical reasons I know where I'll be moving and it will fit in my new living quarters

[@tonykane8866]

Dang it Jimmy . I can't set up with patron it to crazy brother o yeah I only drink white monster and red monster. Lol

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

Good video

[@dansummers2965]

I still need to find a modular standard that works for British railways and is used in the UK. I'm vaguely aware of Great Brit-N (originated in Germany, nearly impossible to google for because google thinks I can't spell the name of the country!), but it doesn't really seem to have been adopted over here. I'd love to find one and maybe build some modules to join up with others, for exhibitions/club nights.

[@mattguey-lee4845]

T-trak might be a good bet for an N-scale layout the base straight module is 310mm long. The power connector is a standard Kato/Tomia plug.

[@willgage7793]

Free-moN is another one that has grown in the US. You can find us on Facebook and KZbin.

[@SaiaArt]

There’s a difference between modular & portable. My layout is planned in a modular fashion. It is 800 sq ft all said & done. That’s not portable. But if I buy a new house with a larger basement, my layout not only disassembles into small modules (3x6ft each), but can have additional modules spliced in if a bigger basement allows. I.e. my yard consists of 2 modules, meaning it could be expanded by splicing a 3rd module in the middle. Portable is another beast entirely. Many exhibition layouts are modular, but not all modular layouts are portable. Mine is more…. Relocatable.

[@Ferrocarril_Chicago]

Today I'm drinking just a regular morning blend with a little sugar and extra coffee mate creamer. Nothing special. I'm also having an asiago bagel with cream cheese.

[@IMRROcom]

Actually, I think modular layouts are the worst parts of both types of layouts combined.

[@cdjhyoung]

I suspect you have witness only N-Trak or similar HO modular layouts with very restrictive and none prototypical looks to them. Freemo HO and even more so Freemo N offer such a wide choice of options for building a module that they are able to equal the best of home layout efforts. Those two systems also offer the most flexibility on module length - important in figuring out how to transport your module to the next meet. If you plan to build a module and be part of a larger group set up, the first thing you should consider is how you will transport your module. I own an old Pontiac Vibe (in its 19th year!) that, depending on how I rack the modules I can carry eight, 16 inch by 48 inch N scale Freemo modules: one 18 inch by 60 inch module or one 16 inch by 42 inch module across the back seat. Joining a group with standards flexible enough so you can tweak the size of your module to what you can handle is very important.