Molding a Miniature Kit - Part 1

Another way to mold a miniature is in kit form. In this video I modify a kit and pour a rubber mold around it.
Thanks to the following companies for supplying the materials used in this video:
Wolf Sticky Wax
www.Freemanwax.com
Econosil-25 Silicone Rubber
I buy my casting supplies at www.silpak.com
Here is a list of suppliers for many of the materials I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5v...
Do you have a project to suggest for the channel?
Here’s a .pdf with everything you need to know:
www.dropbox.com/s/pjb0l6fr7zj...

[@TheCrafsMan]

This is one I would consider a challenge. SOOOO many opportunities to catch tiny bubbles. Your approach is always impressive. Excellent, sir!

[@arichutfles9550]

It's your host!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Crafsman! We’ll have to see what bubble horrors await me when I pour the resin!

[@adrianacruz6177]

Robert Tolone and the Crafsman . I love it. Fridays are the happiest day of my week . Waiting for your videos Master Tolone 🌺🌺🌺💕💕

[@robinbunn]

*gasp* the crafsman…

[@RobertTolone]

@@robinbunn He’s the best!

[@UncleJessy]

Have i mentioned how much i love watching your content. I have YET to do mold making but absolutely love watching each of your videos. Packed with so much amazing info!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Uncle Jesse. I’ll be happy when my videos are half as good as yours!

[@vampcaff]

you're advice to break out the chunkies has saved me so many times! and material!

[@ikkiiiieee]

Thank you Robert for this incredibly valuable video! I hope this catches on, 3D printing more detailed figures from this size and bigger busts, 75mm figures, ... is a booming thing at this time

[@joek600]

I cant wait to see the rest. Im sculpting 32mm minis and mold/cast them myself. The tiny parts like swordblades, hands, or helmet crests are quite difficult pieces to cast.

[@HyperVillainy]

Perfect timing on this one for me! I make custom action figures and have been steadily improving on my mold making and casting because of your work, and I'm working on a particular project where I'll need to gang up a few tiny and intricate parts into one mold! I can't wait for next week to see how this one turns out and what I can learn from the results!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching Hyper!

[@scottturner3831]

A week... a week... oh man... I hate to wait, but it's worth it.

[@eugeniobarreto]

Mr. Tolone do this job with mastery. He is also a very good teacher.

[@christophstar1487]

I like the longer video more because it’s nice to hear you talk. Keep up the good work

[@levinebette15]

The Norm Abrams of mold-making! ❤️

[@moogiibat5845]

Can't wait for the casting

[@jeffmoore6917]

This is just the video I needed for the collection! I enjoy doing these things and being able to reproduce many more from existing models!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@philippprezewowsky90]

Actually, I was just looking for some tips for my first silicone mold and landed on this channel. Pure gold! Greetings from Germany

[@mr_mctweets6905]

Absolutely love the channel Rob. I successfully resin cast my first model parts a few weeks ago with your help (sadly without a vacuum chamber though, but I got through it bubbles and all) and have some custom minis of my own that I'd love to make copies of. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in such easily digestible yet comprehensive "chunkies". Great stuff!

[@danthemakerman]

I used your chunkies technique a couple of months ago, it worked like a charm! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@chrissyross]

Robert not only is this video exactly what iv'e been looking for but it is also one of many absolutely amazing video educational resources that you have created online. Your sir are a legend and I massively appreciate your content, skill and talent.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Chrissy! I’m glad that you find my videos helpful.

[@roger.agburn]

Lmao ... I know that saving material is a good thing, but it doesn't get better when you say it LOUDER. ;D Lovely video, can't wait to see the mold cut open.

[@tristanspahr6164]

This is a nice way to make a clear resin version of the figure!

[@treblam1]

WOW! Can't wait for the next episode.

[@bassistcz]

I love your videos, very interesting to see the stuff. Thank you.

[@plunetzero]

Brilliant and very informative video. I learnt a few tricks from you. Thank you.

[@markrajca6783]

man so enjoyable seeing the set up for the box, I cant wait till i get some more room so I can start making things again.

[@VacFink]

Appreciate the plex!

[@Scyphenyt]

Just found your channel. Love your bag of chunkys usage haha

[@Nerdtronic]

Great video Robert. Lots of mini lessons in here.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Michael. Can’t wait to see the next Nerdtronic video!

[@jeffwarner4225]

I love this content!

[@planetschlock]

Oh nice, I have that mini. In fact, I'm pretty sure I have a couple of those Reaper space Corsair minis, the only real difference between them being their arms.

[@ajfreeze215]

Can I change my vote to #3? You make a full video every week!😁

[@EricStrebel]

good deal, good tips!

[@RobertTolone]

Hey Eric. I’ve been thinking about it. Pewter could be fun.

[@dakel20]

Considering how bad the plastic Reaper Bones uses for their models is... This is actually an awesome idea, hah.

[@loveant3d]

Well done :)

[@equals-kl9hm]

Excellent

[@nekrataali]

Have you ever worked with kneadatite a.k.a. greenstuff? I've been doing castings of greenstuff using bluestuff (a thermal plastic) and this channel is really helping me understand how I can get better molds. Also, I like how wax can just be used for everything. Need to glue two pieces? Wax. Need a seal? Wax. Lunch isn't ready? Wax (obviously).

[@RobertTolone]

I have not used green and blue stuff but it would be fun to play with. Without wax there’s no point to living.

[@utushallasork9979]

It is very interesting to see how it all spills out, there are very big doubts =)

[@masterkillx]

Very informative

[@cmustard599]

Would you consider using hardware-store tube silicone to seal the box, as a means to save some of that precious mold rubber?

[@annekabrimhall1059]

Almost 50K we love you!

[@RobertTolone]

You’re an OG subber Anneka! I love you too. I hope everything is going well for you.

[@annekabrimhall1059]

@@RobertTolone You know it, Bob!

[@mitchs36s]

When you pre-coat certain detailed areas with silicone, and then cure them before the final pour, do you ever see any delamination between the 2 separate cured layers of casting silicone?

[@vampcaff]

silicone adheres to itself. they make special coatings that inhibit silicones surfaces from curing to one another.

[@mitchs36s]

@@vampcaff I have 2 part silicone molds that I have made and do not use mold releases on, they don't cure as well to previously cured parts.

[@RobertTolone]

You definitely want to test your silicone. The rubbers I use adhere very well but as you note, some don’t.

[@mitchs36s]

@@RobertTolone I appreciate the reply. I will be ordering some of the products I have seen you use to try a few new ideas. Please keep up the great videos. I look forward to them each time I see them posted!

[@Bren0780K]

When you're pre-filling deep/undercut/tricky areas, would you recommend blowing air to push and spread the rubber out thinly and gradually to cover the area?

[@RobertTolone]

Anything that pushes the rubber into the details is helpful.

[@clarewillison9379]

I’m trying to make a mould to cast toy soldiers in chocolate. This looks promising!

[@orlandosoto6080]

I’m having problems making a mold for a beretta 92 fs grips the bottom side is uneven one side is higher than the other can you make a tutorial on that particular grip if anybody can pull it of it’s you I watch you all the time and I’m always amazed I’ll be waiting to see if you tackle that project thank you so much on all that you teach stay healthy and safe

[@RobertTolone]

I don’t do gun parts on my channel because they are a red flag to advertisers. And I need the AdSense revenue! But a pistol grip should have an obvious parting line that you can follow when you make your mold.

[@orlandosoto6080]

@@RobertTolone thank you for getting back on the subject of grips I followed your sudgestion and what do you know it worked. I made the mold and the grips turned out pretty good thank you so much keep up the good work sir you have another fan 👍🏼

[@cat9lives999]

Break out the chunkies!

[@gibsonsimpson]

Very cool. How many uses of the mold box would you get?

[@RobertTolone]

In theory you could use it over and over indefinitely.

[@tobiastraff4545]

Hi Robert, I'm looking to do a similar project as you did in this video. I have all the equipment except the resin and a good scale. And recently I got an opportunity to buy one with the precision/resolution of 0.5g (0.017oz). I belive that resolution would be good enough. But would like your recomendation on this (how accurate is enough?). Love your videos, there great!

[@RobertTolone]

That scale resolution should works for most projects.

[@SimianJack]

This the first of your vids I've seen, and I'd love to know: what is a "waxer"? Have you made a vid about buying and using one?

[@RobertTolone]

Hi Jeff, welcome to my channel! A waxer is like a soldering iron but for waxes. Mine is a Foredom Wax Carving Pen. Lots of places online sell them. You’ll see me use it in almost every video on my channel.

[@tonyennis1787]

I don't know what sticky wax is, but you're making me want to go buy some, lol

[@RobertTolone]

Friendly warning- once you experience life with sticky wax you can never go back.

[@NicoleHam]

Hi Robert- i have a question for you; I’m terrible at using sticky wax of all forms and dont know what I’m doing wrong. No matter how hard I try, it wont stick to my models, plastic casts, resin prints, or fdm prints. Should the surface be more porous? These are usually my masters I have sprayed with satin varnish thats uv protective by montana I get my wax warmed or a bead on there, let it harden, it planks right off no matter what I do. Ive tried freezing it and so many other methods but it never holds up. I’m using the wolf sticky wax you mentioned here, the red stuff.

[@RobertTolone]

Hi Nicole, I made a short video about wolf sticky wax today. Not sure what is going on with your wax but it should pretty much stick to anything. Most sticky waxes want to be very hot to stick, but Wolf wax goes on warm and soft. Just smear it on both surfaces and it should stick. Unless that varnish is the culprit. Test your wax on things that are not varnished. Let me know how you get on.

[@Ovrlordz]

Do you use a soldering iron to heat up your sticky wax?

[@RobertTolone]

No, most soldering irons are way too hot for wax; it just burns instantly. I use a Foredom Wax Pen.

[@emilyrealname634]

Great video! Is it handy to add chunkies before I pour to save on silicone? Or only when needed?

[@RobertTolone]

I have found that it is too difficult to put a bunch of chunkies in a mold and pour the rubber on top of them. Invariably you catch a lot of bubbles that way. I usually only use chunkies to top off a mold. However, you can partially fill the mold and then put in a bunch of chunkies. Repeat the process until the mold cavity is full. That way you can save a lot rubber without running the danger of catching bubbles.

[@emilyrealname634]

@@RobertTolone Great info, thanks so much!

[@erikcorrea566]

Hi Sir I think your videos are amazing and super helpful. I have a project that I’m trying to do and would like to ask you for some advice. Could I message you to show you what I want to work on?

[@garybutler3340]

Hi. Thank you for all the videos. Can you tell me what silicone you use please. I’m just starting to make moulds and want to now get larger quantities to make it more cost effective. Thank you Gary United Kingdom

[@RobertTolone]

I get my materials from www.silpak.com. But they are an American supplier and I don’t know if they ship abroad.

[@garybutler3340]

@@RobertTolone thank you I was hoping for a name/brand and see if they sell in the uK. I’m currently watching the rotational moulding video. Very kind of you to reply

[@RobertTolone]

@@garybutler3340 Econosil-25 silicone rubber.

[@pablotejeda1628]

First to comment! Excellent content!

[@allisonmorales6359]

Hey I was wondering if you took commission work for custom push molds

[@RobertTolone]

My Channel is full-time for me now so I am only taking projects I can do on the channel.

[@estufilla]

Amazing video. But, I thought the process of taking away bubbles from casted epoxy (or such), was vacuuming. How does exactly the process works with pressuring?

[@astrainvictum9638]

Instead of a vacuume pulling, the pressure is pushing. It squishes the air bubbles out.

[@estufilla]

I don't know why my brain just automatically though that, being vacummed (pulled out?) = pressured (pushed to the 'core'). I don't know :(

[@mooseworks_soldiers]

What kind of tool is the waxer?

[@RobertTolone]

Foredom Wax Carving Pen

[@alipotter666]

Hey man, on 3':04" you said "but robber loves to stick to unfinished wood" so I have a question is it possible to mold a wooden sculpture? And if I have to coated it with something like bee wax, at the end dose it ruin the sculpture?

[@chriswebb9375]

It will depend on the type of wood and the surface finish. Chipboard obviously traps the rubber and it penetrates between the chips, MDF is very absorbent so thats not great for casting against either. The best bet if you want to mould a wooden piece is to test the rubber on the piece (in an inconspicuous area) and see how it reacts. If you need to then applying something to the surface of the wood like beeswax or very fine coating of a varnish will work (but you will need to check compatability with your rubber and the coating!).

[@alipotter666]

@@chriswebb9375 thank you

[@alipotter666]

@@screwsinabell thank you

[@playathomedad7335]

Robert, I love your channel and videos. I'm a sculptor but not great at making molds. Is it possible to hire you or someone like you to make the molds?

[@arichutfles9550]

I don't know if he still does it but a lot of Robert's early videos were just him filming his mold making jobs.

[@RobertTolone]

I have stopped taking commission work because my KZbin channel has turned into a full-time job. Thanks for watching my videos!

[@sarathai2876]

Great video, do you think it would be possible to mold a glass Coleman's lantern lens? Do you have any videos like that?

[@RobertTolone]

It would be theoretically possible but difficult. Holding the inner and outer walls in perfect alignment when casting a thin walled shape is a challenge. If you are using the lens in a traditional Coleman lantern that burns fuel I doubt there are resins that could withstand the heat.

[@sarathai2876]

@@RobertTolone thank you Robert, I like making solar lights or garden lights. Kinda like the ones you would see in Walmart. I enjoy designing and building them but my biggest obstacle is the plastic lens. Some of my lenses are square some are flat some are round like the Coleman's lens. I currently use thin plexiglass, heated and bent to the desired shape. But plexiglass is not very forgiving it likes to chip, break, crack. I have seen plastic commercial lenses with seam lines and wondered if they were mold injected or perhaps poured with resin like you do.

[@RobertTolone]

@@sarathai2876 They are almost certainly injection molded or blow molded. Resin casting is not ideal for those kind of parts. Could you vacuum form some of your lenses?

[@karllautman]

Why did you have to cure the pre-fills separately from the main pour? Why couldn't you pre-fill the holes, set the master in the mold, and then pour the rest of the silicone in?

[@RobertTolone]

Because the rubber would leak out of the holes; I don’t like to be rushed putting the model in the case and closing up the case, mixing the rubber, etc. By letting the rubber in the holes cure I could take my time doing the next step. Sometimes I will put accelerator into the pre-painting rubber so I can get on with it in an hour or so.

[@theezekarion164]

This Man I wish was my grandpa BY THE GODS I'D BE IMMORTAL! In Horus Heresy & 40k

[@spartantool3942]

Hello Robert I was wondering what is the best way to contact you regarding a project. Thanks adam

[@RobertTolone]

Reach me at [e-mail]

[@danje748]

Soon hitting 50 subscribers Robert, will there be some special video to celebrate?

[@RobertTolone]

I really should do something special but I haven’t thought of anything brilliant. Do you have any ideas?

[@Darius12235]

Just what I needed, have a miniature I made a couple of years ago and it's still waiting to be molded because I just find it intimidating.

[@chriswebb9375]

Dont be intimidated, just have a go worst case scenario you make some chunkies from the mould that didnt quite work like you wanted! Plan your mould make sure it is bigger than you think you need, for learning bigger is easier than just the right size. Take some photos as you go so you can reference them when it comes time to cut the mould and as long as you are careful you will not damage the original.

[@Darius12235]

@@chriswebb9375 what I'm most afraid of is destroying delicate parts like the fingers when demolding. The miniature is sculpted out of fimo.

[@chriswebb9375]

@@Darius12235 take your time as you make the cuts and remember you can go well past any delicate parts and if they go away from the parting line make a second incision along that part but remember you don't want to remove any of thr mould it wants to be one single piece still at the end.

[@Darius12235]

@@chriswebb9375 thanks for the tips. I will also use clear silicone to see where I cut better

[@RobertTolone]

Test a small sample of your rubber to be sure it will cure against the Fimo you sculpted the figure in.

[@ing-alim-2]

Mr Tolone...Is it possible to mold and cast a dinosaur head with sharp teeth without cutting the model?

[@RobertTolone]

Generally, with animals that have long sharp teeth you must remove the jaw and cast it as a separate piece. Otherwise the rubber inside the mouth is locked into place and cannot be removed. Also, it is not uncommon to damage a model in the mold making process.

[@derekdraws]

I made a figure using this method, then made a mold and cast of it... but the joints don't fit once I get a casting pulled; they're super loose and fall out. I made the molds with the same batch of silicone, and the casts with the same batch of resin... what am I doing wrong? Can you point me in the right direction?

[@planetschlock]

I'm having a similar problem with some bootleg He-Man figures that I've disassembled and attempted to make resin duplicates of.

[@RobertTolone]

Mating parts are always a challenge in cast resin. Rubber and resin shrink and even worse, the larger part could shrink more than the small part so that the two might not fit together properly. It is extremely difficult to engineer the original sculpture so that the parts shrink into a proper fit.

[@derekdraws]

@@RobertTolone Thanks! I'll keep trying to engineer a more perfect joint to accomodate those imperfections that come from home tooling/casting. Thanks for the tidbit!

[@chriswebb9375]

To add to Robert's answers, all resins and rubbers shrink on cure, some less than others though. In addition to the intrinsic shrinkage you also get thermal shrinkage from the exotherm generated during cure, to combat this slower curing resin can help to an extent as it tends to spread the exotherm over a longer time. The alternative is to fill the resin with inert filler this aids by both reducing intrinsic shrinkage (as there is less resin) and reducing exotherm (again less resin, and a heat sink) but adding filler will make your resin thicker and harder to pour so depending on the project may not be a viable option.

[@ArcticFlies56]

Bob, this one is a skimpy project. Everything is so thin and begging for a few air bubbles. Of course you have preloaded the trouble spots with silicone. The question begs to see if you did enough? Did you get all the trouble spots? The pieces are sooo small and skippy. Did the MASTER BOB get them all or did he miss a few? Is Bob taking too much for granted with his skills or not? We have to wait until next Friday to see! Will Bob bath in the glow of victory or Weep in despair 😩? Tune in next Friday to see…. Richard

[@RobertTolone]

I need to hire you as my screenwriter!

[@ArcticFlies56]

Thank you. Just trying to you out!

[@theemclane4037]

I really wish you uploaded full projects the cliffhangers ain't it

[@jeffwarner4225]

I am a tooling engineer by trade. My shops going up now. My 1st project is a concept corvette from the late 50s. Maybe you will come by and see my channel as I develop it more. Thank you for all the hard work you put into your videos! cheers!

[@RobertTolone]

What’s your channel name?

[@huffin_puff]

+

[@sapper12b71]

How come you you put too much effort into the box and many people reasons as far as outcome of final product?

[@whygamingwhy2404]

Is this kinda like model piracy lmao? Return the original >:)

[@RobertTolone]

It would be piracy if someone set up a factory to sell copies of Reaper products. I never advocate recasting anyone’s work for the purpose of reselling. In terms of my channel it is also fair use because I credited both the company and the artist in the video. I use the product to teach a skill. If Reaper Miniatures wanted me to promote their products in two 10-minute commercials it would cost them thousands of dollars. This is free marketing for their products. It makes no economic sense to copy this kit because they are so cheap to buy. The only people who are actually casting kits are doing it for fun. Companies LOVE fan involvement with their products and that includes the making of fan art.

[@whygamingwhy2404]

@@RobertTolone I was only playing around, didn't mean to sound like I was accusing you or anything mate :)

[@RobertTolone]

@@whygamingwhy2404 No worries, it’s a legitimate question and one that I get all the time. It’s also a subject near and dear to my heart because as an artist I have been fortunate to be successful enough to have my work copied on a large scale. I am working on a video that will examine some of these issues. Thanks for watching and for your comments!

[@LordPadriac]

Considering how cheap Reaper miniatures and what a pain in the ass, and the expense of the tooling and future resin and that pain in the ass, it would be much, much cheaper and easier to just buy the fucking Reaper models instead of stealing them.

[@RobertTolone]

Watch part two of this video until the end. 😂

[@jackolantern9034]

didn’t he already buy the model to cast it? making a copy of something you own for personal use isn’t theft.