Monday Night Meatloaf 144

Another episode of the famous Oxtools Meatloaf. In this episode,
Funny European hats
Come along damage assessment
Repair ideas for comment
My 4130 gokart handle
Howies Hockey tape wrap
Naval Handrail wrapping
Kindling splitter upgrade
Light tower construction details
Light tower engineering calculation. (Abbreviated)

[@alanharney5278]

Love the Tyson quote. His other one I like is "Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face".

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Alan. I think Mike Tyson was one seriously misunderstood guy. On one side he was literally an animal but on the other he understood why and his calling to his craft. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@gregfeneis609]

Tom, in a recent video, you were admiring the lace up of the wiring so that each terminal meets each screw exactly in place. Meanwhile, in this video you demonstrate the series of half hitches, one on top of the other as a means of improving a grip. Consider that series of half hitches is how machine controls wiring used to get laced up back in the olden days before there were plastic wire ties. It was beautiful to see when I had to work on an old machine.

[@benjaminewing9280]

Oh man, you're making me want to dig into those calculations to see all the considerations that went into it! Great video, thanks as always for sharing.

[@boostben]

Good tape job! The other thing I add, during the spiral phase I do several wraps at the end, maybe 1/2" long (maybe 5 wraps all touching) by 2-3 layers (maybe 1/2" thick) then do the final covering tape. This makes a knob at the end that hopefully prevents the stick from coming out of your hand if you try to poke the puck away one handed 👍

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Ben. I have to replace a couple of handles soon so I will be exploring the hockey tape wrap further. I really like where its going so far. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jobkneppers]

Tom, an additional idea for your woodcutter; if you close the surface behind the cutting edges so it becomes a uniform shape with no chance of interlocking the wood pieces you can lift the bucket after chopping it full and wonder of to the stove in one go. Lazy people like to think these things trough so they don't have to move too much ;-) Best! Job

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Job, I was worried that the split kindling would just fall out of the hole in the bucket. I may extend the support structure outside the bucket to leave the bucket bottom intact. More to come on this one. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jobkneppers]

@@oxtoolco I think most of the pieces will stay inside. Maybe rattle the bucket a little for uniform chaos ;-) Curious about further improvements. All the best, Job

[@nordishkiel5985]

That kindling splitter would be sweet if the bucket could bei taken away, leaving the splitter in place. So the bucket or basket is used to carry the kindling to the fireplace. One less step.

[@tkuenzli1]

It is so nice to have you back!

[@kimknowles3681]

Option 2 with the addition of a extension of one sid to wrap to the side to help reinforce from the twisting load.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Kim, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@PeregrineBF]

The rope technique you showed is one of the simpler forms of coxcombing. Specifically the French or Bannister coxcomb. If you alternate the direction of the half hitches you get a Simple coxcomb with a straight raised line. Using more strands can make a more comfortable coxcomb, but the technique gets a bit more complicated. Frayed Knot Arts has some good tutorials on different styles.

[@miles11we]

For handles my go to is to make them out of some real choice wood with cool looking grain, make the handle all fancy and spend a ton of time and care to finish it up all pretty, go to use it and realize it's way too slick so I take it to the 24 grit belt and make it ugly as sin but grippy haha

[@ravenbarsrepairs5594]

Come on up to northern NY for a few weeks. They definitely could use your skills in our shop, although I doubt their willing to pay enough for half of them. I will say you'll go back to CA, and wear a t-shirt in those temps.

[@craigs5212]

Tom, option 2 will suffer because the bending moment at the screw attachment point will be way too high. The screws will pull out or the underlying cross member will twist. Suggest you just clean up the broken existing receiver flush to make it look nice. Then make a 1/4 steel plate that attaches to the front cross member but extends out the left side past the existing receiver. Bore a 1" hole in the plate and bob's your uncle. The new plate will take the shear at the inboard end of the handle and the existing receiver will take the shear at the end. The detent will still work. There will be a gap between the plate and the existing receiver but this will not matter. If you want to get fancy you can make the plate thicker in this area to butt up against the cleaned up existing receiver.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Craig. Thanks for the comment and excellent suggestion. Cheers, Tom

[@traitorouskin7492]

learning me stuff again! how dare you. glad meatloaf is back.cheers.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Traitor. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@nowayjerk8064]

SILLY ? NOT AT ALL I LIKE IT LOTS TOM!!!!GREAT HAT!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Jerk. Thanks for the comment. That hat is super warm. I think my wife got it from a guy that makes them in Poland. Cheers, Tom

[@ptfdchief]

Well, I think it’s a good idea to put it on the crossmember and distribute the load. I think I would put it directly over the gear which is slightly to the side towards where torch bar piece that broke off. I think you would end up being stronger because you’re trying to distribute the weight and then push right straight down on the gear.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey PTF, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@marcmckenzie5110]

Tom, it’s exciting to see you start to get back in the KZbin groove! Thank you 🙏🏼

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Marc, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@fraggler12]

You're on a roll!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Strand. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Serilleous]

A suggestion for stabilizing your bucket bottom: just a round hunk of plywood and some e6000 aught to fill in the footring and make the whole thing stable. And you get a reinforced bottom to boot!

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 thanks for sharing

[@btfou]

Pop rivets are my jam.

[@edwardwilson990]

Check out Rob Cosman, he has a channel here. He demonstrates how to wrap tool handles with hockey tape. He's from Canada and has a woodworking school. I wrap all my handles now like that as they've gotten old and painful these days from a hard life like many others here in this community.

[@bboomer7th]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/foDdaKKeaJuJpas

[@oxtoolco]

Already did that! Excellent videos. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@stanwooddave9758]

Tom have you done a show and tell (dimensions) with your shop skates? The chrome-molly tubing 0.083" in. wall, gives me new ideas on how to build some small stuff I've had in mind.

[@surveywaters]

Thanks for the meatloaf.

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@christurley391]

I think I would bend a Y shaped yoke around the come-a-long to put the fasteners under shear load rather than pull out strength. Thanks for the video

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chris. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sleepib]

I would do a hybrid between the two options. Centerline handle, but I don't like the attachment method drawn, those two bolts would have WAY too much force on them. Maybe add a couple straps with an S bend that attach to the sides.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Sleepib. Sounds like its time for a test. Fasteners are pretty strong if tightened properly. It would make for and interesting video. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sleepib]

​@@oxtoolco They can be pretty strong, but you've got something like 50:1~75:1 leverage on it from the length of the handle, and likely more from the deflection of the plate not loading the bolts perfectly.

[@eformance]

Guessing that angle is the kingpin inclination angle of a go-kart.

[@oxtoolco]

Oooh. Good call. My recollection was that was five and five degrees. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@artemiasalina1860]

The method of wrapping the handrail with cord is the same used to truss up wiring harnesses in, e.g., military electronics except that the loops are spaced out more. It's also the method used by butchers and chefs to truss up a roast. :-)

[@oxtoolco]

I have seen some beautiful machine wiring laced up this way. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

Do both and add another one on the opposite side, that way you can use a trident.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Justin. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ohhpaul7364]

make a square box to go around the splitter, have a chute going off one side to your bucket. I see you jamming a knuckle against that sharp edge one day. otherwise, great idea; not trying to chastise you, we are getting old and skin tears a lot easier now. In fact,, have the chute dip off to the bucket starting the ramp of it on the opposite side of the box so no matter the side the stuff is directed to the bucket. Looks like you are using an anvil, so a square peg to connect it to the anvil make it hollow and it can go on a stake hammered in the ground?

[@oxtoolco]

That is an interesting idea. I have a configuration that uses a stock bucket in mind now. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@RyJones]

I think mounting the handle on the cross member would be less safe in two ways - one, if you break the hoop, the load will shift suddenly. Two, a lesser concern, is the whip if the load breaks free in another way. Maybe I'm overthinking it.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Ry. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@prototype3a]

Could you ask your friend about hockey pucks? I want to buy some for random purposes since they're ... hard rubber pucks.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Drew. I don't have any hockey friends. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@anan0moose]

The couplings are the compression type.

[@oxtoolco]

Collet.....Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@lundysden6781]

Just lift the full bucket of wood off of the splitter!

[@gavinmclaren9416]

Yup. Seems obvious.

[@StubbyPhillips]

West Marine? So... $28.50/ft.?

[@oxtoolco]

Good one. I know what you mean. They are pretty proud of their cordage. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jackfox9082]

How would'a thunk the tower would have that much windage. (Don't get out'a the shop much, do ya?)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Jack. Not following you here. It's a bunch of tubing with a lot of air in between. Don't understand how being outside would change that idea. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jackfox9082]

@@oxtoolco Just teasing you. Surely you've seen how a big wind will pick up any kind of patio furniture you leave out. (So my lame joke was if you're in the shop all the time you never see anything like this in the outdoors.) There's deceptively lots of surface area on those tubes for wind to work with. The weight to surface area favors big winds.

[@jamesnichols7507]

Option #3 buy a higher rated Come-Along

[@oxtoolco]

Hey James. That particular one has seen 6K on a dyno. 😁Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jamesnichols7507]

@@oxtoolco I worry with your planned modifications it takes out the OEM safety protections of the handle being the weak link in the whole lift. Now with the modifications you have no warning before failure other then crushed toes or piece of equipment dropped on the floor.

[@oxtoolco]

@@jamesnichols7507 The manufacturer also states the come along is not for lifting.....How many folks are adhering to that advice? A valid concern on your part. Thank you for your concern. Cheers, Tom

[@kalkirby2004]

-34f with wind chill I SE Idaho

[@Otingocni]

Ok I'll quit whining about 20....

[@rwbishop]

Kind of related trivia: -40° is the only temperature where both the Celsius & Fahrenheit scales numerically agree. Check it out!

[@oxtoolco]

Yikes. I might break in half in that weather. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@MakersEase]

I would do both... The side spot for the come along handle allows you to put the handle from both directions. This could certainly come in handy in certain situations..

[@prototype3a]

Both AND weld the two pieces together at the corner.

[@flacch]

I was also thinking that option 2 doesn't seem to fit in certain situations. Also option 2 seems to put forces in small areas so I wouldn't know about those things. So because of that I was gonna vote option 1. Both is absolutely better though!

[@oxtoolco]

Oooh, Now you are talking. That might be the cat's meow. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ROBRENZ]

Good stuff Tom! All the ideas I had for the come along fix have been mentioned already. ATB, Robin

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Robin, Thanks for stopping by. Always nice to hear from you. Cheers, Tom

[@ew4395]

Love that Monday Meatloaf is back, always a learning experience. My pet peeve is incorrect usage of aluminum alloys and heat treat designations. Aluminum in the T6 condition has been Solution heat treat(as you stated, but then Artificially aged. Just solution heat treated aluminum would be T4.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey EW439, Sorry for the slip up. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@timturner7609]

11:47 every come a long I've owned used a Y yoke handle. Id be inclined to continue that tradition on yours probably with industrial epoxy (like whats used to make car frames) to glue it onto the 3 sides of the existing mechanism instead of just 2 screws that will without a doubt crack the casting.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tim. Thanks for the comment and design suggestion. Cheers, Tom

[@davidbell6101]

random idea: split and hinge the catch bucket so that it can open up into a cradle for the split kindling sections making it easier to empty in neat bundles

[@oxtoolco]

Hey David. That could work nicely. I was wanting to just lift the bucket off with all my nice kindling and dump it for the next run. We will get there. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@kevinbaird9763]

Thanks for the meatloaf Tom.....The Tyson quote was spot on!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Kevin, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@outsidescrewball]

enjoyed your Monday Night Meatball…..how do you handle the water intrusion in all of your joints and couplings on the tower, the cut ends are raw steel…???

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chuck. I just turn the tower over and dump out the water from the vertical legs.....I figure it will last as long as old me will need it to last. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@bigun447]

The old-time windmill repair guys would come to repair a mill unit or damage to the tower. They had 2 horses, a pulley, and a section pipe arrangement. They would unbolt 2 adjoining tower legs up and install hinges. Then they would bolt the extendable pipe perpendicular to the hinge line and create a lever out the other side of the tower. Then they would hook the pulley to the ground with a good stake and thread a rope from the top of the tower, thru the pulley, and on out (more rope than the distance of the tower was high) and hook it to one of the horse's harnesses. Then he would hook another rope from the tower top to the other horse perpendicular to the hinge line. The trained horses were given commands, one to pull the tower over and the other horse on the pulley side to back up so the extendable pipe would act as the lever and lower the tower to the ground gently. Just the reverse to stand the tower back up. My grandfather told me about that. He worked servicing oil wells when they put a derrick pole up and a team of horses was trained to walk forward to pull the rods and pipes out of the well and back to put the pipe back into the well. Granddad went to work as a teamster at the age of 11. It was said he could cuss at a team of horsed as well as any grown man. He worked for the same company for 57 years.

[@davidcolwill860]

When wearing the silly European hat, you should be using metric as the default measuring system!

[@ChuckRoss77]

I have several hockey sticks...all wrapped the same way...yay Minnesota

[@cogentdynamics]

I have what looks like the same unit which I did similar damage to over 30 years ago trying to un wedge my chainsaw. I’ll maybe copy your repair. 39f. Is too cold. You gage blocks will be so small you won’t be able to find them 😂 How about a video on insulation, ventilation and other ways to protect tools from condensation and corrosion? I just added a small 8x10 outbuilding and have been overthinking it. Thanks for the lunchtime meatloaf Tom!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Cogent. We will get to the insulation soon enough. I already can't find half my tools! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jtkilroy]

Option 2 no doubt. If you have space, a backer plate below the cross bar towards the spool. Sandwich the aluminum.

[@jtkilroy]

Ps, the tape trick is neat

[@oxtoolco]

Hey James. Good to see you stop by! Hope your're keeping well. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@tda2806]

Episode 144, that's a full gross of meatloaf.

[@Throughthebulkhead]

Hi Tom, For come alongs check out Tirfor / Griphoist you will not go back to the style you have after using one. No drum, just a pass through cable. Overload is provided by an easily replaced shear pin. Designed for pulling and lifting

[@oxtoolco]

So what do I do with the four I already have? I know! Get them a playmate to play with. I'll check those out. Always looking for the best and brightest engineered tools. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@prototype3a]

Those things look pretty spiffy for sure but they also appear to be REALLY expensive.

[@aserta]

4:19 Ah, so that's what happened. Also, i didn't know the handles were an engineered failure point. Most of my come-alongs are auction stuff and not a single one came with the OG handle, those that have a handle are the integrated type with the awkward ratchet finger destroyers. That's good to know, i've never pushed mine, i'm kinda chicken like that, but now i have to find those handles, because it's a smart, smart idea. Certainly the handles i have now wouldn't snap. One of them's solid bar stock. :)) edit: option 2 seems the more sensible one especially because of the proper load. 15:55 basic sword wrap, but the "cord" is part of the wrap itself, not a separate piece of leather. I have that same thing on my bike handles. Super grippy. There's also the criss-cross variant where you have two pieces of tape, you start at the top with both, do the twist, then start the helix in opposite directions and every time they meet, you switch by twisting the "cord" together and go in the other direction. Once you're done, (for extra fancy points) you wrap the handle and "cord" by alternating or weaving, the two tapes. Looks really nice if you do it with two colors, well, if that's your style. I suppose that's for fancy hammers.

[@oxtoolco]

I like the DNA double helix idea! I'll have to try that one when my new order of tape arrives. I definitely have some fancy hammers....Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@princebatswater]

Option 1 looks OK if you mill the side of the bail arm flat so that the new fixture gets the advantage of friction. Bolting it to a rough surface will make it want to shear the bolts off. Option 2 seems likely to stretch overload the bolts. I would estimate that anything less than 1/2" would be inadequate. Better if you can make the mounting plate grab the edges of the bail somehow. How about fabricating a C section which will slip over the bail?

[@oxtoolco]

I'm thinking a test is in order. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@twwtb]

If you can prevent the pieces from going under the splitter, you could just pick up the full bucket and take it where you want, full of kindling.

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sween187]

If you put a brush on the bottom of that bucket with the splitter, you could take the bucket off with the sticks falling out the bottom so you can dump out the whole bucket a once, 👍

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Sweeney. I think I have a better solution in mind that leaves the bucket a standard bucket. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@randallparker8477]

We used to use fabric friction tape (old school electrical tape) on our baseball bat handles using the cord/wind just as you showed. I never played hockey or owned a hockey stick.

[@oxtoolco]

Didn't the friction tape leave tar like glop on you hands? The friction tape my dad always seemed to have always behaved that way. Now he may have kept it past its use by date... Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@randallparker8477]

@@oxtoolco TALCUM POWDER. Worked great... I'm talking little league... LOL

[@aerogfs]

Aerodynamic fact: circle sections produce a lot of drag, so much that on those old biplanes, the cross wires used to strengten the wings produced as much drag as the whole wing.

[@oxtoolco]

That is really cool and interesting! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@richardcurtis556]

Who knew Mike Tyson is such a poet? And he knows a lot about punching people in the face.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Richard. A very misunderstood man. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@eyuptony]

Enjoyed the mixed content. Tony

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tony. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Zerostar369]

Ive been watching KZbin all day. This is the first time Ive seen something actually useful. Thanks Tom.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Zero. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@carlhitchon1009]

Don't mount to the thicker part. It won't resist twisting from the moment.

[@oxtoolco]

I think a test is in order don't you? Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@snowdog90210]

They engineer those failure points for a reason. You’ve already broken the handle twice. If you make it too strong, it might have a catastrophic failure at a very in opportune moment

[@oxtoolco]

They also build them knowing they will be seriously overloaded. The original handle broke when I first got it. That particular hoist has seen 6K load on it. Not that I recommend that but there is considerable safety factor. You do what you have to do given a particular situation. That said 4K was about all I could manage these days. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@cliffordfender1159]

Tom, everyone of my Allen wrench cheater pipes have that short tube on the end at a slight angle off from 90 degrees. really handy for tight spots. Also, die makers use them that way all the time for tight places. That's probably why you did it years ago, I bet you just forgot. Cheers, Cliff

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Cliff. Good to hear from you! That was a long time ago and far far away. All the best, Tom

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Thanks for the video.

[@stevenpederson1645]

For your tower couplings, just drill two holes through the assembly and put 16 penny nails through and bend them over to prevent pull out. If you happen to have an old copy of ''The Standard Handbook for Electrical Engineers", there's a large section on tower construction for transmission lines far too heavy for your needs but interesting to flip through. As far as the come a long goes, I would retire it and get a chain come a long I dislike those cable ones.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Steven. Not a bad idea. A 5/32 pin in double shear is pretty impressive. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@stevenpederson1645]

@@oxtoolco Not to mention readily available and cheap.

[@trottermalone379]

Forgive me in advance, but I cannot resist the irony here. For the benefit of all… First half of video discusses repairing damage resulting from overload condition at stress riser notch. End of video shows analysis rationalizing the compression loading of a thin wall tube structure full of screw holes that apparently are not stress risers. Please understand that a sound structural design is not demonstrated by the maximum load it can withstand, but rather by the minimum load that will cause it to fail.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Trotter. Not rationalizing. I was sharing the unexpected positive encouragement of the design. The tower is an exercise to study a construction technique not to validate whether is is safe or even appropriate. The calculations were just an interesting footnote on the potential efficiency of the structure. Lots of things are put together with self tapping screws including the metal building many shops occupy so it is a legitimate construction fastener. One grain of salt goes a long way. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@trottermalone379]

@@oxtoolco Tom, Thanks for your reply. I get it. Explore safely one and all.

[@nichterreichbar787]

I i would rather use option 1 because i think it's stronger the screws hold on shear force where option 2 the screws ged bend because the flat bar wil twist and bend off the screws or try to rip them out he aluminum body Or use option 2 but cut off the old connection and go around the corner to the pint where it was so it holds in 2 directions

[@bcbloc02]

Could you not just remove the bracket weld it up and then re heat treat it in one of those snazzy hot shot ovens? You could restore it to its original condition and get some heat in the shop in the process!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Brian, I might consider that. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@c0mputer]

Nice splitter upgrade. Seeing that I would want to take the bottom out of that bucket completely, put another bucket under that to collect the wood. So the first bucket with no bottom is a chute to guide the wood into your bucket you can then take away and bring into the house or whatever. Then maybe you’ll want to make the splitter have no edges or shelfs that would hinder the wood from falling down into your bucket. Loving the meatloafs!

[@oxtoolco]

That is a pretty good idea. I'm thinking the support structure may just span over the bucket to reach the solid surface needed for the splitting. If you step back the whole process is an interesting design study and prototyping cycle. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@oliverleete5544]

@@oxtoolco Or if you had the current bucket setup, but with something to stop the split wood falling under the splitter. That way you could lift the bucket off without it getting caught and pour it into whatever container you keep your kindling in. Something like a sheet of metal going straight down from the outer edge of the wedge to the base.

[@carlhitchon1009]

You're a clever guy.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Carl. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@johnm840]

As for Grips, I like the twisted tape concept. For Pole Spear grips I have used a roll of O-RING stock and put it in tension and hold ends in place with E-tape. Add a Shrink cover over top. The spiral spacing backed on hand fit. O-ring stock worked much better than cordage.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey John. I have a hammer that I put a couple of old orings on many years ago. It actually worked pretty good as a end stop for your hand. Never thought about cord stock. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@johncarey9149]

With your splitting watsit, rather than having it in a bucket, why not mount it in a wheelbarrow? Easy to get the wood that required another tappy-tap-tap, convenient for moving from one location to another. One other thought was regarding your "gross" negligence in NOT making something special for Meatloaf 144 ... ;-)

[@highlandermachineworks5795]

Prior to leaving Southern New England I had a small shop and no room. Now, being just east of reno, I have space to have a wind turbine. And having a tower is important. So thank you for your experiments as I thought I had to weld everything.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Highlander. I was pleasantly surprised at the results. As always use anything you see on the internet with eyes open and caution. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@douglasfarina4729]

I think options #1and #2 would both overload the aluminum at the new-fixture bolt attachment positions. Option #3 would be to replace the original aluminum "horseshoe" with a fabricated one from steel. -Doug

[@wrstew1272]

How about a “spur” configuration, one leg each side meeting a tube in the center. Flat head bolts 2 per side from inside, and you could really whail (or Gronk in OX terms). Canukistan wood butcher does his with a twist- oops you are doing it as I type……great minds and all that. Sells mallets pre wrapped. On the ships I worked on all the hand rails were wrapped with net twine- lasted forever and you definitely didn’t slip. Ships engineer showed me the straight line method, he did all of his hammer handles like that- even oily grease laden paws don’t slip.

[@darrenblattner2508]

A machinist is supposed to enjoy "machining" lol Could you machine a J in your attaching piece to slide over the "arch" of the comealong then put your bolts in? This way it would be pulling on the bottom side rather than just on your bolts. Just a thought. Keep smilin Tom

[@jardine1able]

Great ideas, thank you, stay well, regards Mike from Ckrnwall, UK

[@calholli]

I think your best bet is to just do BOTH of your sketches and make it in once piece of steel. So that it has the side tube AND the stub shaft on the center line. Then you can just use the stub shaft as your handle when messing with smaller stuff, and you'll have both options with the big handle as needed. Plus your steel structure will be mounted both to the side and the top, which will give it much more strength. The best of all worlds.

[@rwbishop]

Out of passing interest, 'knot heads' call that spiraling series of Half Hitches 'French whipping'. Cool videos, Thanks! :)

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks! I couldn't remember the name. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@dizzolve]

27:43 maybe you can make your flat spot angled only to be flat where they cross ........ that way where it might want to fold in 30 years it'd have a much longer section to fold.. and youd have tube all the way to the flat spot

[@sierraspecialtyauto7049]

Kindling splitter--just lift off the bucket and dump it into another container. Might have to pick up a piece or two, but you would avoid possible wrist/hand contact with the cutting edges.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Joe. I was thinking the stuff would just fall out of the hole. I may extend the support structure outside the bucket completely and leave the bucket intact. More to come on this one. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@SuperAWaC]

If you made the splitter so bits didn't get caught beneath it you could probably just lift the bucket up and dump it into your big kindling bin, yeah?

[@s.shepherd]

I'd just JB weld a short section of that tubing inside the broken receiver and make a handle to the ID of the tubing. I bet it would outlast us both.

[@therealme613]

If the plate inside the bucket was solid in the middle you can than pick the bucket up off the contraption and dump the split pieces out…right now they would get hung up

[@mikemarriam]

The handle on the side gives you clearance around the hook. Depending upon your rig putting the handle in the middle might interfere.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Michael. Excellent point! I didn't consider that. The yoke when fully up might get close if the handle receiver was on the centerline. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@tomhagen8691]

How about Option #3 -- make the baseplate of option #2 into a "U" shape and gain a bolt on each side in addition to the ones on the face.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tom. Probably a good idea. The side fasteners probably don't add much to the equation since they would just pivot if the others failed. That is if I'm understanding your note correctly. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@petemclinc]

Drilling holes may weaken the aluminum bracket...

[@petenikolic5244]

Hummm why do you think round metal Chimneys have a spiral around them to break up the effect of wind prevent it gaetting a grip and damaging it

[@petenikolic5244]

My choice would be remove the Ally handle mount the entire thing and remake it out of steel . the entire U shaped thing

[@imknot]

I'm not an engineer but my two cents worth. shouldn't the handle pocket be attached in line with the pawl to eliminate as much moment as possible?

[@phyllisstewart4494]

More pulleys in the system reduce load on the important stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@oxtoolco]

Good point. That would certainly be some interesting rigging on this particular setup. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jasongreene303]

That ole Kentucky windage can certainly knock you down for the count!

[@mesomachines]

I think putting the handle on the end would create failure points at the fairly thin corners of the yolk. Fan of option 1 though.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi R. The yoke is pretty stout at the corners. It is thinnest near the pivot point at the center of the cable drum. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@carlhitchon1009]

@@oxtoolco Yes kinda thick but it's wide in the wrong direction to resist the torque. The sides are wide in the correct direction.

[@Chris-ho2by]

Hey Tom, I dont know if you have thought of replacing the whole bracket for the repair ? If the central pin comes out then a laser cut folded sheet metal solution might give you the most strength. I can see that there are other features on there, but they wouldnt be difficult to replicate with a bit of welding (or some fancy forming on the sheet steel). I'm in millimeters, but 5-6mm hot rolled steel would be stronger than what you have and get around the welding / drilling of the existing part. If you need help with modelling / drawing the part up I could give you a lift :o)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chris. I did consider replacing the entire yoke. If I did that I would probably just buy a replacement since it was really a bozo moment that caused the problem not a design flaw. Finding the right balance between $$ and being lazy is always the challenge. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Chris-ho2by]

@@oxtoolco I understand, more of a running repair rather than a full blown development project 😀

[@glennstasse5698]

These loafs are getting spicier and spicier! That analysis of the tower strength looked like a design for a lunar lander. I can’t help but wonder why the come along people didn’t put the handle in the middle. Maybe it gets in the way of some workloads? And judging by the wind noise since you moved to The King Ranch, I’m thinking you could build 2 towers and compare solar to wind power.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Glenn. I think there is a windmill in my future somewhere. Yes we get the wind as we are on a hill. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@JHorvathCinema]

Have you heard of maker pipe or tinker tubes?

[@michaeldurling793]

Tom, I got my stitches out 5 days ago and as soon as the finger is a little more healed I will build a rendition of your kindling splitter. The bucket mod is also a great idea. I have a couple of hatchets and axes that could use a robust wrap and those tips will be put to use as well. I neglected to mention in my last comment it's good to have you back dishing up a delicious batch of meatloaf.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Michael, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sierraspecialtyauto7049]

Option 2 with legs to make a U shape and pick up support from the side legs.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Joe. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@thebeaver6596]

The goat !!! OxFather for life ❤ we love you

[@oxtoolco]

Right on Beaver. Thanks for the nice comment. Cheers, Tom

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Good Meatloaf, keep them coming Tom...

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom