Mopar A-body Drum to Disc Brake Swap (Pirate Jack Kit)

In this video I show a time-lapse of the Pirate Jack Disc Brake kit and provide pointers throughout the process. Parts/kits used are:
1. Pirate Jack Manual drum to disc brake conversion kit ($720)
2. Dr. Diff front suspension rebuild kit
I don’t show the master cylinder swap in this video but, please not that the rear distribution block IS REQUIRED. Otherwise, you end up dragging your rear brakes slightly.
Audio Credit:
Beyond Elysium- Wellmess 2
The Bayou- Tigerblood Jewel
Grease Monkey- Will Harrison 2
#mopar #projectcars #musclecar #dodge #dodgedart #hotrod #budget #brakes # techtip

[@jamesmancusi6747]

I was lucky enough to find a post '73 stock setup with a new rebuild on it, as well as QA1 UCAs and QA1 dynamic strut rods (I put it all on a '69 Barracuda). All told - I'd say I'm into it for about $300.00. The plus is, that all the parts I'll need to maintain the brakes in the future are sold at my local parts store. Bargains are out there if you look for them. Great video!

[@sorta_stock]

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup on your ‘69 fish. I think those UCAs alone retail for $400 bucks haha. Good score 👍🏻

[@desertmopars3336]

Great upgrade for a reasonable price. Nicely done!!

[@carnut7436]

Good job thank you

[@acardiac5983]

I did a QA1 k member swap with upper and lower control arms and added disc brakes.

[@TAVOAu]

Guess we were lucky down here in Australia. Same A body ball joints right to the end, whether it had drum or disc. So no disturbing the upper arms or alignment. We could pull the entire disc stub assembly from an 81 model, and swap it onto a 62 with no special parts, just crack the ball joints and reinstall.

[@440Nichole]

i bought a similar kit for my 66 Belvedere , same 11'' rotors and single piston calipers from speedway motors . this was 4 years ago and the car has sat the entire time in the garage . i found out a couple weeks ago the front caliper pistons had completely frozen up and the piston dust boots were all cracked . i got the pistons out and they were bone dry no lubricant at all . have to rebuild the new calipers i've never used lol

[@sorta_stock]

Having to rebuild new parts is super frustrating. Hopefully the kit still works for you.

[@acardiac5983]

Don’t forget to change the distribution valve. You need one for a 1970 or later. It’s designed for disc and drum set up.

[@sorta_stock]

Ive got disc brakes in the rear as well so, the original distro block worked out.

[@marcuskhosravi9920]

​@@sorta_stock what setup do you have for the rear?

[@sorta_stock]

@@marcuskhosravi9920 I installed an 8.8 out of a 97 Ford Explorer. 4.10 LSD with disc brakes from factory. I uploaded a video of the swap and what was needed. I’ve got well over 50 hard passes at the strip and the axle doesn’t even sweat it. Not sure if I’ll leave it in there but, it worked great for the budget competition I was in.

[@pasifsc3749]

I put disc brakes from -80 Aspen to my -64 Dart. Callipers look exactly alike.

[@brianoliver4516]

I installed a set of QA-1 upper control arms and new bushings in the stock lower arms when i installed this same brake kit on my 71 Demon last year. Basically the whole front end got new bushings because they were all pretty bad. Had the front end aligned and been driving for almost a year now. You got yours done much quicker than i did, lol. Nice job.

[@sorta_stock]

Glad to hear it’s still workin good for you a year later! The parts looked and felt like decent quality.

[@enzopolo4942]

do you know by any chance the wheel size and centore bore sizze ir your video thanks

[@theinsaneshecklador6598]

I wasn't aware of Pirate Jack's. It looks like a good kit for the money. I have a long term project 69 Valiant that I had planned to use the Scarebird conversion kit on. Just last week I learned they have been going out of business and no longer have the A-body kits. Wish I paid more attention and ordered some while they still had em. I guess I better order Jack's kit while I still can.

[@sorta_stock]

The Pirate Jack’s kit is ok. I’m seeing a little more wear than I had expected this early on. Still a good product for the money

[@theinsaneshecklador6598]

@@sorta_stock Just the pads or the rotors too?

[@sorta_stock]

@@theinsaneshecklador6598 the pads look just fine. It’s the rotors that are wearing faster than expected.

[@theinsaneshecklador6598]

@@sorta_stock Thanks for the heads up.

[@michaelgrogan3224]

Very nice step by step. I was stuck on the config of the caliper to bracket hold down clamps! I couldn't figure out how they were oriented together and on the caliper. I got it now!! Thanks for the video!! My disc conversion is done.

[@tonywoloschinow3756]

@7:45, You need to torque your lower ball joint to specifications as the castle nut is spinning when you turn the steering knuckle.

[@sorta_stock]

Yup. I posted a comment with the update. I had missed a washer which, when added, allowed me to torque it down to spec.

[@JonnyMopar]

Nice! Was that Thursday night before our race?

[@sorta_stock]

Wednesday lol. Master cylinder was Friday morning though 😆

[@normp3273]

Did you have to get this aligned? And if so, what alignment specs did they use?

[@sorta_stock]

I sure did but, I don’t have that sheet any longer.

[@enzopolo4942]

just wondering if you can reply to me sending the link to the upper control arm. thanks. trying to find that exact one for my 66 barracuda. thanks alot. very good vid

[@sorta_stock]

www.doctordiff.com/suspension-rebuild-kit.html

[@kandeu4u]

Drdiff

[@icetech6]

Was this manual disc? Just curious as i'm going to do my 62 and am trying to decide on power or manual..

[@sorta_stock]

Yes, it’s manual disc 👍🏻

[@johnmcdonald587]

So the LCA bushing and strut rod bushing were OK?

[@sorta_stock]

The kit did come with strut rod bushings and I did swap those out off camera. The LCA bushing wasn’t supplied in the overhaul kit but, the existing one wasn’t in too bad of shape.

[@johnmcdonald587]

@@sorta_stock Understood. I've done dozens of front rebuilds and disc conversions and learned the hard way about not changing those pieces out while you had it disassembled that far. Other then that, excellent video.

[@philh9238]

Do you have a vid for the rears

[@sorta_stock]

I swapped the entire rear end with one that already came with disc brakes. That video is posted.

[@alcartes6107]

Those ball joints are dangerously loose. The ball joint turns in the joint. I can see the stud turning in the spindle. It it's airshow to be right in the spindle. If you run it like that, it will damage the spindle and the ball joint will fail.

[@sorta_stock]

I actually went back and added the needed washers to the ball joint which tightened them up significantly.

[@liveordiecast8604]

Nicely done! What was the part # on the control arm set? Im using the pirate jack disc conversion kit as well. Tia!

[@sorta_stock]

I don’t see the numbers stamped and Doctor Diff doesn’t have them posted on the website. I bought the front “Suspension Rebuild Kit” on Doctordiff.com

[@jasonfalk7696]

Which master cylinder did you use?

[@sorta_stock]

I used the one that came with the kit. It bolted right up but, I had issues with the internal seal. Had to reinstall the O-ring. I also reused the stock rod

[@dalescrewcab1]

With this set up can you still use the 14” ralley wheels?

[@sorta_stock]

Not with this particular setup but, they do have a kit that allows the use of a 14” wheel. It’s looks identical but, has a slightly smaller diameter.

[@kandeu4u]

If you buy their kit for the smaller 5x4 bolt pattern@@sorta_stock

[@jeremiassantiago8464]

What did you install for the rear.

[@sorta_stock]

8.8 out of a ‘97 Explorer

[@mrbillpurcell6203]

why do you think your music is required ?

[@The1978johnny]

What rims did you go with

[@sorta_stock]

15x7 centerlines with a 4.25” backspace

[@user-oi7db5eu5v]

Did pirate jack ever give you the part #'s so u can replace the pads, rotors, or calipers, if needed? I went to buy this from him and all he could say is that I can get new parts at the store. I work at an auto parts store for many years and that's not true at all. I explained this to him and asked him for the #'s again - now he ignores my attempt to reach him. I see this all the time at my store. People come in wanting replacement pads, rotors, ect for a disc brake conversion they did years ago and want me to guess what parts to give them. No one in the store can guess what it is and we can't spend all day going through 100's of boxes pulling the parts out and trying to match it up with what's in their hands. Please let me know if u got the part #'s. thanks

[@sorta_stock]

That is a great question. The calipers and pads appear to be the same as my 77 Ramcharger. Same style at least. I’ll do some digging and see if I can find them.

[@user-oi7db5eu5v]

@@sorta_stock Thanks man. As of now - I got so frustrated trying to buy a kit that comes with the part #'s. I just rebuilt what I had - new shoes, bearings/ drums/ brake lines/ wheel cylinders/ ect. Everyone seems to make it so complicated to buy a conversion kit that I gave up trying to buy one. Some kits use the same master cylinder - or some need a brake booster or a different metering block ect. I still want to convert to disc the next time the shoes need replacing. But for now - it was easier to just rebuild the entire drum system. And not for nothing - But about 3 weeks ago, I met a dude who did a conversion on his 71' Dart about 15 years ago and he said the brake pads are made for an early 90's Dodge Caravan. (same part# anyway) He wasn't sure about the rotors, but thought he still had the part #'s saved in a file cabinet at home. Oh yeah, if u still have those old front hubs - they're worth about $400 a piece if u can find them. Mine were rebuildable but thought I'd mention that if u want to sell em' on ebay or something. Thats' what I'll do when I install a conversion. Maybe help off-set some of the costs of the conversion.

[@garryhatchett775]

I don’t understand your methodology of not tightening the bolts to spec before installing the cotter pin.

[@sorta_stock]

Regarding the ball joints, you have 2 limiting factors to watch out for. The first is torque and the second is alignment. Ball joints require a fairly low torque value (around 15ft-lbs which feels like you’re just snuging them with a wrench). Then the cotter pin is installed. If it doesn’t align, you tighten slightly until it aligns. With such a low torque value, I don’t bother putting a torque wrench on it. Plus, it has the extra insurance of the cotter pin.

[@garryhatchett775]

@@sorta_stock really? Specs in service manual for lower ball joints is 100 ft lb. Is the 15 ft lb spec in the instructions, if so I believe that’s an error. Just giving you heads up so it doesn’t come apart later.

[@sorta_stock]

Yup, you’re right. I don’t have the paperwork anymore but, looking back at the video, I see why the castle nut alignment worked so well with the lower torque rating. I left out the washers. Thanks for the catch 👍🏻

[@timmolinari5420]

Nice car, want to sell it?

[@sorta_stock]

Haven’t really thought about it. Maybe

[@jpl57210]

All I heard was save $2000.

[@shootermcgavin2819]

Drums are lighter and unless you added hundreds of lbs to your vehicle or going autocross, waste of time and money. Engineers knew what they were doing with the vehicles brake system.

[@domagazio1386]

Pirate jack = junk Willwood is the only way to go This is a situation where going cheap will cost you!!