More CARNAGE on the broken 1965 Corvair | Will it ever end?

[@ercost60]

29:02 You're such a tease, Sean!

[@arrowblockentertainment7893]

As a former Vair owner, it's nice to see the inside of the engine and how it all looks. These videos have been great to learn in case I'll get another and tear apart the engine.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks! It’s been a fun ride so far!

[@barryellison2966]

Next time, when you're pulling the push rod tubes out and you've already installed viton o-rings, pull the inner one off before you pull the tube out to avoid hurting the o-ring. After inspection you should be able to re-use them.

[@kalybnielsen4183]

I love tearing apart engines and building them, I do mostly Chevy small block and the 262 V6 and doe several Buick Odd Fire V6, but I have never seen a Corvair engine actually being tore apart, those cars are awesome, this video was highly informative, thank you

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks for watching, and they're interesting engines for sure!

[@tbeggan]

Great find on that cam lobe! It's always nice when you find the culprit and it all makes sense.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks for watching, and it’s nice to confirm our suspicions.

[@jimc6403]

The cam is not necessarily the culprit, unless cam was not heat treated properly, I would suspect a lifter stopped rotating and caused that lobe wear, otherwise a lack of oil or poor quality oil without zinc additive may have ruined more than one lobe. The sludge is curious factor (little zinc for flat tappet cam, bad lifter, lack of oil changes and blow by bad rings). Hopefully the new cam gets proper new deep dimple lifters. He didn’t mention inspecting the lifter bores or lifters so hopefully that otherwise good “block” is still usable?

[@walnutmanor]

Real nice work. I once purchased a 65, which the seller said he had rebuilt the engine but was short on details. He said it ran and quit. I removed the top end, heads and cylinders. The crankshaft was "blue", never saw anything like it. Pulled the pan and there was no oil pick up tube/screen. I guessed he forgot it, and fried the engine.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks!

[@terryhansen5928]

Thank you so much for doing this video! It will help me in the future when I take one apart!!! GB

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thank you!!

[@servicetechnician3264]

Hello Sean. Nice work once again. You'll have her running like a fine watch. George B

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks George!

[@ricknorris6943corvair]

YIPES! STRIPES! Chew that stuff until it begins to chew back. As you have noticed I am late to your video series on the flooded Corvair resurrection but have enjoyed watching them. You have done a great job of showing what it takes for this. I am a looonngtime Corvair fan going back to when they first came out in the fall of 1959. I have owned, driven or worked on at least one of each model year and built many engines over the years from street to race. I built a Crown mid-engine V8 Vair with a injected 350 in the back seat. I have built and vintage road raced two Corvair's and finished another one for a friend. My current one is a 66 Turbo convertible which is a kind of holy grail for the marque.

[@jeffsmith846]

In April of '22 my daily driver 81 Corvette engine had a miss. Tried plugs no go. Pulled valve covers and one of the rockers was not even moving. Removed cam and that one lobe was completely rounded off. Lifter was rounded off also but did come out without issue. Original engine with 67000 miles. I put a new cam in with new lifters. Ran great again. (as good as a 190 hp 350 V8 from 1981 will run). Looks like you found the problem much sooner than I did as yours was still in the process of wearing off the soft metal.

[@Kpar512]

FWIW, the sludge in the oil pan (at 8:15 in the video) is LEAD. This results from using leaded gas (tetraethyl lead additive) as most cars of that era used. Tetraethyl lead is an octane booster, and most Corvairs were designed to use 100 octane fuel (except for 80HP and 95HP motors). The lead would get past the compression rings during combustion, and would get into the oil, settling on the bottom of the pan. I have encountered sludge so thick and hard that it had to be scraped off the pan with much difficulty. I have not encountered this issue with engines rebuilt since leaded gas was banned.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Unfortunately, that sludge had been cleaned out previously and re-accumulated.

[@hellohun7331]

The hot rod VW guy again. ALWAYS use Valvolene racing oil in this. We also have cam and lifter problems on new engines. Lube your cam and lifter faces with the moly lube usually supplied with new or re ground cams. And use valvolene racing oil and ZDDP from the start to avoid cam and lifter failure. Upon starting for the first time,run it up to 2k to 2.5 for 15 minutes. We run springs that can exceed 350 lb over the nose with no failures. You may need chrome moly pushrods made to order.

[@AutoAnatomy]

I run Rotella with additional ZDDP in this one, and it seems to work well. I did run it at 2000 for 20 min to break in the cam (just didn't show it on the video). Additionally, the springs are Isky but I don't remember the specs off hand.

[@tallmanfagan]

1/ new cam2/new lifters3/ hone 4 new rings5/clean/clean 6/ talk to a good engine builder/ use stp on assyof parts, cam, rings, lifters and get a( oil gauge)ps i have had a few of those cars,, 140hp also!! good luc guy..

[@AutoAnatomy]

Lots of things have been done in the newest video

[@125AXer]

9:16 that is EXACTLY what those chunks/pieces are, bits of valve stem seal!

[@shanetesmer5198]

Oh I can’t wait……you were so right about the cam. I’m glad the block checked out.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Me too, looking forward to the finished product

[@shanetesmer5198]

You get her back together it’ll be perfect. I’m so impressed with your talents Sean

[@AutoAnatomy]

@@shanetesmer5198 Thanks buddy

[@dalemettee1147]

Shawn, you said that you don't have a machine lathe for doing your small projects. All I say is just keep looking. you don't need something that's commercial grade or even professional grade or something that has a bed that that long. I'n thinking maybe a 30" long bed or shorter. They're around, just have to be there at the right time to pick one up at a good price. BTW, as a medical worker, you mioght be interseted that my middle daughter is a nurse and just got hired at a local hospital and works in the unit just below the E/R. She absolutely loves this job.

[@AutoAnatomy]

I’d love to find a small lathe to make some bushings/small bits. They’re pricey in my area so I’m keeping my eyes open. Congratulations to your daughter on becoming a nurse! She should be very proud of herself and it’s quite the accomplishment.

[@surfcitycorvairsmobilecorv2433]

California Corvair Parts is an excellent source of bearings, pistons, rebored cylinders, rings, etc..

[@GlenJS]

The new slugs and jugs would be the better way to go as you can order them as a matched set and save some hassles. I also noticed that you did not measure the big end of the rods. These could be out of round and need refurbishing or replacing. I would also recommend that you go with the lighter weight piston-rod assembly along with balancing the crank for the new piston-jug assemblies. This will reduce wear and tear on the engine and allow for much better performance. You might consider the overbore kits from Clark's as they come in a variety of different sizes. I would recommend the .030 oversize as it gives the best of increased performance and longevity. You might also request the lighter weight rods which are of better quality than the OEM products along with the lightweight custom pistons and increase the compression and the horsepower and torque.

[@SpeedyG289]

Very helpful. Thanks

[@robertkutz]

NICE WORK.👍👍

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks!

[@tedzehnder961]

You have to measure for "out of round". One of your sizes was 02 bigger which is a lot of variance.You might not have the proper "feel" with the telescopic gage ,or, you definitely have some jugs with wear and the piston will have some "slap" Measure the piston dias. too.Piston to cylinder wall has a tolerance that should be checked. Check all mating surfaces next time!

[@AutoAnatomy]

Things ended up changing again and an entirely new engine was built with new pistons, new jugs, etc.

[@whototeru]

I have to replace all four of my horse collar and transmission bushings and I'm NOT looking forward to it. Been putting it off for way too long. That said, I admire your willingness to dive in over and over again!

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks, I guess I'm just a glutton for punishment!

[@GlenJS]

Another thing that can be done to increase the life of the engine is to counter drill the stud holes where the block goes together and put a sleeve in the counterbores which will stabilize the block under high torque periods.

[@AutoAnatomy]

That's a good idea, I might try that in the future!

[@tmcoffin47]

Well done!

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thank you!

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

It looked like you were measuring intake and exhaust lobes on the cam as to be the same. Surely the lift is different for the intake and exhaust ? If I were building an engine and was measuring my cylinder bores I would most definitely take the jugs/block to a machine shop that has Tri mic's. It's really the only way to measure internal round cylinders. Inside mic's are antique . I realize its what you have but I say use the resources around you also. You're in the land of Nascar. There are shops all around down there

[@AutoAnatomy]

I believe the intake and exhaust have the same lift, but I did measure all of them.

[@edog7059]

I'm NOT an expert, and not a mechanic but was pretty darn good in geometry class many decades ago. Cam lift is actually the difference between the cam lobe radius at the topmost end of the lobe and the radius at the lowest point of the lobe - not the overall height of the lobe itself. In fact, reground cams based on an original camshaft will have a lower overall lobe height but can actually have greater lift. Of course, everything including overall lobe height needs to be within specs for the valve geometry to work correctly and the lobes should be pretty much identical - so that camshaft certainly needs to be replaced! Love Corvairs - had a beautiful '64 Turbo Monza in Highschool. Gave $350 for it! Wasn't considered cool back then but I wish I had that car today. Any reason you didn't upgrade to 4 carb heads with all that work you're doing?

[@mikeconnelly7032]

I noticed you can upgrade the oil cooler as a direct bolt on. Check out a finned style from a 62-63.

[@Kpar512]

There were actually three different oil coolers, an eight-plate (standard engines), a twelve-plate (special high-performance- specifically 140HP and 180HP Turbos) and the earliest "folded fin" cooler, often called the Harrison Cooler, as they were labeled with a sticker that said "Harrison". It is alleged that the "Harrison" is the best performing.

[@tumblelake63]

I hope you are rebuilding the motor. There is a way to split the case without pulling the heads and pistons but combing thru the whole motor might be best for longevity. The money spent should give you years of worry-free driving. You did the top end already if I remember right. These are good reliable motors when fresh. I have to remind myself that Corvairs are over or approaching fifty years old. They have seen a lot of wear and tear. Imagine in 1965 what a fifty-year-old car would look like. My hope is this car stays on the road and becomes a reliable driver.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Definitely rebuilding the engine, and hoping it’s back in the car this week.

[@stephenholland5930]

As the Corvair came out in 1960, that would make them up to 63 years old now.

[@Kpar512]

I have, on a couple of occasions, split the block with the heads and cylinders still attached. Not much fun, but when your issue is a spun rod bearing, it is definitely the way to go. Just pull the crankshaft and camshaft, then put in the repaired or replaced crank (be DOUBLE SURE the timing marks on the cam and c rank are properly aligned!) and bolt it all back together.

[@TheChupacabra]

Loving it!!

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thank you!

[@madmike8406]

Sorry you had problems, but I’m enjoying the videos

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks, and it’s been a great experience. So much to learn about these cars

[@BFSilenceDogood]

That's the beauty of fruit stripe. Once it loses its flavor you load in another piece repeating until your mouth is packed with the entire pack.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Seriously...it was maybe 5 minutes before it was gone, just as I remembered from my childhood.

[@tomsheets6399]

Mix in a piece of blackjack gum....problem solved!

[@timothymoroney3561]

Back in the day I remember every time I used Quaker State my 'vairs would have that silverish sludge in the oil pan ! I think it's 'cause the oil was 'paraffin' based and it couldn't handle the hotter temps the 'vair engine ran typically . I switched to Castrol and didn't have that sludge problem again !

[@volktales7005]

Nasty cam lobe that is! I have not had my Corvair engine apart (yet), but have had lots of air-cooled VWs apart. Normally the pistons don't just fall out of the jugs as easily as yours did. Won't matter much if you are getting new ones anyway. Have not had fruit striped gum in well over 40 years but still remember the ads. "It's fun to tickle your tongue with fruit striped gum!

[@AutoAnatomy]

Yeah, it was worse than I thought. Lots of new parts on the way, stay tuned!

[@Friedbrain11]

I redesigned this engine way back when and made it more conventional with replaceable iron liners in the cylinders(cast as part of the block) and regular head bolt design for putting the heads on it. Chevy could have done the same and with the design(I easily figured it out), the engine power would be higher and the engine cheaper to produce. Makes you wonder who in their fevered minds did this engine design. It's not so much a bad design as it is just poorly carried out. Anyway, I have worked on several of these engines both early and late design and I still like them. They are lightweight for sure but then again the Buick 3.8L(231) was lightweight also and way easier to work on and get huge power out of it(I know I used to have one).

[@AutoAnatomy]

Robert, I'd love to hear more about the redesign of this engine that you did...do you still have any of the engineering work or drawings? More curious than anything. I truly wish that Chevrolet had persisted with the development of these cars, it could have been a great competitor to the European sports car (and I'm a Porsche guy at heart)!

[@jacquespoirier9071]

it is the GM standard take a wonderful idea and turn it to junk !!!!

[@tallmanfagan]

first start up is 2200rpm f 30mins on new cam/lifters

[@AutoAnatomy]

I did, just didn’t show on camera

[@craigthompson2308]

Be sure to use an old school oil, none of the eco stuff and be sure to use zinc break in additive as this is a flat tappet engine. Sludge was probably the old camshaft going away. Seen fresh engines blow up during break in due to lack of zinc in oil/ wrong oil.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Absolutely, I use non-synthetic and add ZDDP to the oil for more zinc

[@davidp187]

It's a flood car. I think you have the right attitude having tore into it for a third time. But really, corvairs are great cars.

[@AutoAnatomy]

I kick myself for not doing it the first time, but I’m really looking forward to having it back up and running

[@surfcitycorvairsmobilecorv2433]

New camshafts as well

[@AutoAnatomy]

Most assuredly a new cam!

[@mikeconnelly7032]

Camshaft wobble?

[@AutoAnatomy]

It wobbled right out of the case!

[@mikeconnelly7032]

@@AutoAnatomy just have the gear pinned. It’s a common practice.

[@AutoAnatomy]

It’s getting replaced entirely. Make sure to check out the next couple videos where I go through exactly what went wrong and what we’re doing to upgrade.

[@ercost60]

27:40 Weird, that's the 5/6 exhaust cam lobe. You were concerned with #6 intake: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYPFpZhpZs-dhtE

[@AutoAnatomy]

I know, but the other lobes checked out good. That was the only bad one on the cam.

[@mikeconnelly7032]

Betting it’s an Isky or Otto;)

[@AutoAnatomy]

Most likely

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Au Harbor Freight measuring tools precision without breaking the bank.

[@Oldjohn52]

might get a plug out

[@JoanneJ-tl5ur]

cool

[@AutoAnatomy]

Thanks!

[@screaminlead]

🎵You pull the engine out. You put the engine in. You pull the engine out and you scream and curse and shout. You do the spendy money and you cry your self to sleep. That's what it's all about! 🎵

[@AutoAnatomy]

Hahahaha…way too true

[@raymondspellman2979]

End the carnage .put a 1963 aluminum 215 v8 in it

[@AutoAnatomy]

That would be a FUN swap!

[@raymondspellman2979]

@@AutoAnatomy I drove that car for five years it was a great swap

[@jeffryheintz5738]

Flavor loss at 3 bolts.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Two with hand tools

[@kimeldiin1930]

Scuff marks , Since I started using esther based oils Motul, Valvoline Ipone and others ....no more of that...

[@richardp6178]

Now that you jammed and knocked about that micrometer on the cam, throw that micrometer in the trash and go buy another one.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Always a student, and appreciate the feedback. Thanks!

[@barryellison2966]

Wish you hadn't used your fingers in that sludge. These cars used leaded fuel back in the day. Not knowing the history of the motor it may be original leaded sludge. Be careful out there.

[@AutoAnatomy]

Sadly, that's the second time I've been into the engine (sort of). When I got the car, I dropped the pan and cleaned out the crankcase. I'm guessing there was some residual sludge left in the engine and that's what I was seeing.