More Consistent & Accurate Height Offsets! Mark Demos the HaasTooling Height Setter.

[@kozaki12]

’’You table is going to be there for you” that’s actually true. Last time I have rough time in my life but guess what ? Table said it’s going to be ok and I was! He’s my best friend for this days ❤

[@bartzaremba3226]

nice gadget, especially for old cnc machines

[@zajawamotocykle9256]

Why old ?.its better then sonda

[@El.patch.o]

Now if you could/would do a video on Fine & Rough boring head tool setting, that would be fantastic.

[@hikolanikola8775]

bought mechanical one from china for 40 euros, works like a charm and repeatability is within 0.02mm

[@ytfan3815]

I wonder how much pressure it needs to push down that center to zero, probably will break any tool under 1 mm (0,0394") In that case it's better to use/buy a LED-setter, just touch and set. Question to Haas, did you test it on (very) small diameter tools ???

[@danilomacanovic]

How would you enter offsets (real tool lenght) and get G54 part Z using external presetting device from which you get exact tool length in holder ?

[@reeseromine2140]

Does Haas not have a work offset that applies to all other work offsets? In my Akira Seiki you could set -2.0" in G60 (EXT) and it would apply that to all work offsets so you don't have to mess with every tool. But if your using a 3D probe, touch off all your tools with a tool setter then touch off your probe on the outer ring of the tool setter and input that into G60. Now all you have to do is touch of on the top of you part with the probe and the machine calculates the difference for you.

[@RoboDriller]

Fanuc robodrill does, Fucked me to tears a few times. Got to pay attention

[@theofficialczex1708]

Haas has G92 (WCS shift). You can also just modify G54 Z or whatever your WCS number is.

[@harrisonhartley5021]

G52 is Nonmodal global shift on Haas. G92 is fixed global shift.

[@CEMBerthoud]

If you zero your Haimer off a 2" gauge block you can skip adding -2" in the wear column. MUCH less chance for error this way.

[@Steelcrafted]

Why aren't you using positive tool length offsets? Where you can look at your tool and know exactly if it's relatively correct....

[@carlostrabazorivas9568]

Nicolas Correa machining tool the best technology and the most bigger machining tool CORREA USA TX Houston

[@CAMER_21]

i think butter paper is more cost effective 😂

[@ytfan3815]

Every time I have to set a tool I ask my boss a €50 note, when I bring it back he says keep it, I have plenty of them. 😁

[@ReiniGrauer]

Don't buy the Haas digital height setter. It's junk. My expectation was that it would be set once and maintain that calibration as long as the batteries were good. You know, technology Mitutoyo calipers have had since 1993. Nope, it seems like every time I pick it up to set a tool, I have to go over to my surface plate and get my 123 blocks out and calibrate the thing. Then I got a couple drops of coolant on it and it made the plunger sticky, I have to go and WD-40 it up to get it to move freely and spring back. Thirdly, I thought the digital aspect would be more accurate, but it turns out an analog height setter is much easier to use because it is more clear which way past zero you've travelled and an analog gage refreshes instantly. Fourthly, the top measuring surface is too soft and already has some dings in it from setting tools, and I've only used it a couple dozen times. Fifthly, it has magnets on the bottom of it for whatever stupid reason, so it picks up shavings from just being in a machine shop and then when you go measure your tools you have to remember to really clean the base of it off otherwise your tools are going to gouge your work. Basically I'm going back to an analog tool setter and getting rid of this absolute turd.

[@Mattias-mc1rm]

show proof any of your lathes have the stability to cut large pitch acme or trapezoidal threads at a profitable speed.. ending up with shiny surface and no chatter marks.. Since the start of this youtube channel you avoid touching the subject.. Pick any steel you want, exept "free machining" variants , and make it the next video. At least 5 x diameter using a tailstock and I'm being fair.. and at least 6mm pitch ;)

[@metzenw86]

Literally the worst way to touch off tools. Get a known gauge tool, typically 4.000" long. Jog it down to your presetter and set G54 or what offset you want. Subtract the distance of the gauge from your offset. Now when you touch off tools you'll know the Exact length of the tool from the gauge line in the spindle. If you calibrate your Haimar this way it's so fast to touch off your work offset. In my old Hardinge I could touch off tools and set work offsets faster than a probing system using that method. Also, the table is not an constant reference, thermal expansion will move your location. Table mounted probes have the same problem.

[@MeDieValUKRAINE]

bad design, will crush a lot of tools that may interfere with 50mm ring loocks cool and stuff, but practical use is limited. for example: disc saw will get bent if jogged below 50mm of the end mill bigger than inner pad will also crush

[@TheAimar12]

I have the same digital height setter (100mm tall) and for shell mill I move to 101,000mm and enter such offset (with minus symbol) into length wear. More over, I use it also for lathe tool setting, for example thread inserts - the same scenario. Otherwise it will crush on reference ring surface.

[@DonkeyHotie]

Except two things: First, everyone else's tool setter is the same design so I don't think it's nearly the issue you say. Second: you need that rigid surface to set zero on the presetter. You push a parallel or 123 block down on the top of the setter and then zero the display. When you come back to pick up the 'height' of the presetter with a 3D taster / sensor, you do so on the rigid ring, not the plunger.

[@theofficialczex1708]

Either jog the tool over so a cutting tip is over the plunger, or use a spacer of known height if the tool has retaining parts below the cutting tips that interfere. This is a reference tool that's been employed in both analog and digital forms for decades; this isn't anything new. If you can't see how the limitations could be overcome, maybe you shouldn't be a machinist.

[@theorangebaron1595]

You can just use a dowel pin or 123 block. Jog tool to the side and below the block. Then slowly raise the tool till the 123 block or pin can slide under the tool and the machine bed. Then boom subtract the size of the block/pin.