Mortise and Tenon - Angled Components

Hand Cut Angled Mortise and Tenon
How to hand cut an angled mortise and tenon joint.
When you have to join components at other than right angles, the mortise should (almost always) be chopped at 90 degrees to it's joining face.
In this video, I'll show you how I hand cut a mortise and tenon in components that meet at an angle other than 90 degrees (in this case, at 45 degrees).
Check out my earlier mortise and tenon tutorials, for more in-depth instruction in the basics, if you find this one a little too challenging straight away.

[@ramaroodle]

Always jealous of how other peoples joints come together so perfectly. Very nice results. Something to shoot for. Well done video. No music, no hype. Just the facts,

[@theshadow1559]

I personally found this tutorial to be very well filmed and orally explained joinery, both demonstrating true woodworking craftsmanship.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thank you very much

[@thomasmarliere2505]

The very clear explanations I was looking for, thank you 🙂

[@riostylo4821]

Been stuck on this joint in an angled frame for agessss while at college. Thus has really cleared it up, thanks

[@mitchwoodwork]

Ethan Lewis Glad to have helped Ethan

[@jonathangwynne1917]

Love the videos. Very informative, clear and no distracting video editing or music. Please don't let anyone persuade you that you need to add those things.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Jonathan. It's impossible to please everyone, so please excuse the odd joint video that doesn't comply lol. Seriously though, more advanced joints are basically just built on easier ones, so as you progress you should find you need little or no narration, and much less unedited sections.

[@deepblued]

Great clip again Sir! The video was really informative and the pace gave me time to anticipate and guess your "next move". That, for a beginner at woodworking like I'am, made this clip really fun to watch. Thank you!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Always a pleasure Martti. Cheers, Mitch

[@EquilibriaHealth]

Thank you for this video. Really appreciated you posting it.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Alessandro

[@bsbhro]

Thanks for the explanation. Nice to see that your thumbnail-back is healing.

[@bothann]

Great video Mitch, thanks. Answered all my questions.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Johann!

[@shake767]

excellent patient and clear explanation, thanks for taking the time to post. I'm off to my shipping container farm workshop to attempt one.

[@mitchwoodwork]

shake767 Thanks, my pleasure. Hope you got on okay with the joint. Happy woodworking, Mitch

[@dufftime]

i was in the shop thinking about how to mark the lines, and got confused. thank you so much for making this very clear. great camerawork too!

[@mitchwoodwork]

You're very welcome!

[@stuartosborne6263]

You made that very understandable Mitch, once again thankyou for sharing your knowledge.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Very welcome

[@ivanmunoz2961]

This is what I was looking for, thank you very much sir. Liked-suscribed

[@mitchwoodwork]

Awesome, thank you!

[@mikehedden5997]

I'm going to file this video under craftsmanship. Very well done, Mitch. I think I will give it a go.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Mike Hedden Thanks Mike. Go for it! Very useful for diagonal and triangular bracing. Hope you're enjoying the joints series.

[@musamor75]

Nice one Mr. Peacock. Clean and simple.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Many thanks

[@camagramps1]

I just took an order to frame a trapezoidal mirror. I took the job for the challenge as much as anything and while trying to decide how I was going to pull this off, I settled on this very method. Nice vid and great work - thanks for showing me how it's done!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Gordon. Do send me a photo of the mirror once it's made - I'd like to include it in my viewer's projects roll

[@MultiWarrior63]

Agree with Martti and just what I was looking for. Nice job buddy

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Ken. I used two of these on the Picnic Table project, but somehow I didn't get the footage to put a decent tutorial together from that. Cheers, Mitch

[@terrybolerjack6165]

On my way to the workshop now to try this out. Thanks Mitch!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Have fun!

[@lualhomestudio]

You make it sound very easy. Very good.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks. with some practice, it is

[@JayKayKay7]

I have some 30 year old 2x10 and 4x4 redwood planks and pillars from my old deck and have decided to make an outdoor dining table. I want to use the 4x4's for the legs using a "X" pattern with a angled brace. Your video show the path to get there. Thanks you for the content.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Sounds great! Pleased to have helped in a small way.

[@ginandmango]

Thank you!!! Explained and demonstrated perfectly.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks

[@ddaavviiddttaaaaffee]

Thank you for this. Despite the time passing, the knowledge you have passed on is timeless. I have been sitting and trying to work this out for 5 degree legs and stretchers, and for two 45 degree angles on frame beams. Thanks, I will do some practice pieces with your method. Cheers.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks, I hope it all works out for you

[@ddaavviiddttaaaaffee]

@@mitchwoodwork Thanks , as a begginerbIboften take on difficult projects, and it they go wrong, its a lesson learned. Your tip is great. Cheers. Making mistakes are part of the fun. Your video has made that difference.

[@ericfriedman1548]

Really well made lesson, thanks!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Eric

[@Belg1970]

Mitch, thanks for confirming I was doing it right. Doesn't happen that often but used this technique on some 4x4 material and then used the drawbore method to bring the joints together. Really well done video.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Pat. Were you doing some timber framing?

[@Belg1970]

I did a very small pergola project for selling some of my birdhouses and bring attention to my WW. Wish I could add a pic but don't see any way to do that.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Sounds a good idea - hope it boosted sales. Feel free to email any pictures to [e-mail] I might just add a gallery of follower's woodwork on the website.

[@JoshMolina]

Great explanation! Thank you!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Josh

[@w4shep]

Another beautiful & strong joint ! I also like the clarity of the presentation. And the fact you do not treat your audience like beginners by wasting time explaining how to measure, or what marking tool, saw or chisel you used 🙂 Most videos I've seen treat the audience as if they've never seen a tool before. Very refreshing. Yet another reason I like this channel and your instruction. Although I admit, I'd like to know what's in your toolbox 🙂

[@mitchwoodwork]

It's hard to strike the right balance with instruction, but I'm pleased you're enjoying the style. As for the toolbox, well one day I might video that ;-)

[@artrobert0875]

Thanks Mitch, i needed to do his for a mailbox post! Thanks!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cool, hope it all goes well.

[@SnakeAndTurtleQigong]

Thanks very much!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@weldabar]

Now I understand why! The videos I've seen previously on this topic did not explain it as well.

[@stevebeverley8330]

Hi Mitch Just subscribed Great videos , i will be using these mortise and tenons in a future project ! many thanks

[@mitchwoodwork]

Steve Beverley Thanks Steve. Once I've settled into the new house, I shall be posting videos regularly again. Happy woodworking.

[@andreicharpentierquesada4530]

Great you always have what i need

[@mitchwoodwork]

Glad I could help

[@pbfamous07]

woh. game changer. thanks buddy.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers!

[@RickTorres2010]

Thanks u took the mystery out of timber frame 45 deg corners.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Rick

[@arfonia]

Great vid 😀👍

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks!

[@guymandude999]

Nice 1 brother.

[@mitchwoodwork]

+guy saunders Cheers Guy

[@tarikbenabdallah4993]

thank you , well done

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@tomthetitan3697]

That chisel is deadly sharp!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Only way to have them

[@colinanderson7319]

nice job

[@mitchwoodwork]

+Colin Anderson Cheers Colin

[@MadHatter764]

Those are really sharp chisels - dealing with pine like butter.

[@ronh9384]

Great video Mitch. You make it look easy. Seeing it on video gives me clarity on the layout so thank you. Could a domino joint work on this as well? And without doing the angled cut on the end of the tenon? Or would that make the backside of each end of the knee brace to weak? There wouldn’t be a huge load as it is for a child’s playhouse.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Best to do a test joint really. Maybe you could do twin dominoes?

[@mauriciomonje5228]

Excelente!!!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks

[@hutts57]

I love that Japanese marking knife you're using. Where did you get that from and what make is it? Love the series too!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks. I got it from Axminster tools at least a decade ago. I think its Shinwa, but I can't be certain.

[@weaponizedmath4369]

Just did my 1st I believe and didn't cut the Tennin square, went the long way by it worked

[@mitchwoodwork]

Well done!

[@arturdzido7112]

very good explanation. thank you. Just wonder how would you do in round leg at horizontal angle to the leg (imagine stretcher linked to opposite corner legs.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheer. Prepare a flat on the leg the height of the tenon and width of the stretcher, and perpendicular to the stretcher. Chop the mortise in the leg. Prepare the tenons to fit between the flats on opposite legs, and then scribe the top and bottom of the stretcher to fit the curve of the leg.

[@arturdzido7112]

@@mitchwoodwork many thanks for advice but added some complication as legs are at angle to its top too, never done this way before so perhaps pushing myself with these type of stretchers.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Same method, only use this video to make the mortise and tenon. Maybe try a sample piece first though

[@henryt2830]

Thank you for this series, I really enjoyed watching your videos. I was wondering if you would demonstrate a angled, through mortise and tenon joint? I realize you are advising against it, but I am making some stool legs and I feel that the horizontal leg rail could use this joint. And because each stool (4 legs) can have up to 8 of these, I am a bit worried that the angled mortise hole don't match perfectly on both sides for a clean through tenon unless I have a good, repeatable method. I have checked many sites but have not found an inspiring version. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

[@mitchwoodwork]

From what you say I'm guessing the angles aren't that extreme. My advice would be to prepare all the joints prior to any shaping of the parts. Leave rails long, and scribe to the final leg shape. Alternatively compete joinery with square parts and then shape the glued up legs to flow from the rails. Either way, preparing the joints while the parts are square will allow you to lay out for the entry and exit points of the mortises accurately.

[@henryt2830]

@@mitchwoodwork Hi Mitch, you are describing "exactly" what I have in mind, do the joinery before any final shaping and yes, the angle is very slight (8 degrees from square). I notice you are not using any machinery, which I respect very much. Because of the number of stools I would like to make, I may modify your mortising technique by rough hollowing out the waste using a drill first (using smaller drill bit so I don't affect the mortise wall, hope that works). Anyway, it is great to hear from you as an encouragement boost :)

[@mitchwoodwork]

Sounds good to me

[@peterdaly3957]

Excellent. not easy

[@mitchwoodwork]

+Peter Daly Cheers Peter

[@kenschwartz6153]

Tio How to measure the sides of the tenon : Take the cutoff of the cheek rotate it 90 degrees place against shoulder then scribe line to trim sides of tenon to match mortise opening. This is easier than having to line up Engineer Square perpendicular to piece when it cannot register

[@mitchwoodwork]

Great tip, thanks

[@peterdaly3957]

Mitch, have a 6' circular roof light in the centre of my house and I want to make an iris. Thinking of using 6mm plywood but the friction might be too much for the opening and closing movements. Maybe one with 12 leaves at least. Maybe coloured perspex or polycarbonate. Also would you know where to get technical drawings for assembly and individual leaf set out? Thanks for acknowledging last comment Gentleman

[@mitchwoodwork]

+Peter Daly Hi Peter. You might take a look in the SketchUp library, or search for camera shutter diagram. It's not something I've ever made myself. Sounds like a neat project though.

[@Diozark]

Hi Mitch, at 06:24 the tenon looks like is has a chamfer or relief, is this just a coincidence that occurred because of the size of the mortise ?

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Anthony. The 'chamfer' is actually the original edge of the board - because the tenon is angled, and the shoulder isn't overly large, there isn't enough material to complete a rectangular tenon. Ideally the mortise is chopped the same shape, but this isn't really a big concern and doesn't affect strength

[@colinanderson7319]

do you generally make the mortoise and tenon width a third the size of the timber,,thinking of doing a green porch with four an a half square timber so assuming the tenon width will be inch an a half?

[@mitchwoodwork]

+Colin Anderson It's a pretty good guide Colin. If your wood is straight grained, then I'd say 1 to 1-1/4 should be plenty strong enough, if that helps with boring the mortises.

[@colinanderson7319]

+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thx, nice joint btw.quality work

[@jimim8514]

thats as good as gold, thank you

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@bungalowbluesman]

Hi Mitch, beginner woodworker here ... i'm about to make an occasional table. the legs slope out a little from the top - about 10 degrees. would this be the way to cut the M & Ts - as you've done here - square motrices in the legs then trimmed tenons in the rails?

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Gary, I would probably taper the top of the legs to 10° for the extent of the joint, and keep all the joinery square to those surfaces. 10° isn't significant enough to worry too much, so let the aesthetic guide your choice. Great question though, and I might use it in a video!

[@bungalowbluesman]

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I should have said that it's a set of rails (they aren't called rails are they!) at the bottom of the leg, flush with the floor. So the taper idea maybe would be aplicable?

[@bungalowbluesman]

should have said 'would not be applicable' at the end. apols.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Now I'm confused - it doesn't take much! Could you maybe sketch it and send a picture

[@bungalowbluesman]

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD i have a photo of the design (screen grab) - how can i send it to you?

[@ThisTimeofDarkness]

Hi Mitch. I really like this video, but I was wondering if you could show the technique how to cut a mortise that is actually going in at an angle? I could be wrong with this, but I think your mortise is perpendicular to the tenon portion of the piece you are joining (and the rest of the piece of the joint is what is situated at an angle). I've been looking around for someone describing how to cut an angled mortise in this manner and haven't found any videos out there yet! Hopefully this makes sense. Thanks!!

[@mitchwoodwork]

ThisTimeofDarkness If I understand what you mean, then that is a joint best avoided. The undercut side of the mortise is weakened, while also being heavily loaded due to the tenon entering at the angle. To create one, it is best to bore holes at both extremes, at the desired angle, then bore overlapping holes at decreasing angles into the undercut end until you reach perpendicular. The remainder can be chopped and cleaned up square with a chisel of the right size. Hope that helps, Mitch

[@thoperSought]

+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD that does help. I'm looking for a way to make a wooden plane without cutting the body into four pieces (à la Krenov, I think). I'm trying to decide whether to order the Veritas plow plane (with accessories) or make a matched set of tongue and grooving planes in cheap wood as a stopgap.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Take a look at this kzbin.info/www/bejne/anK5q5V6q6h-gdE which will have a mortise with one end sloped. To make the groove plane, you're going to be needing a deep, narrow, mortise, which can be a struggle to chop from scratch. My advice would be to bore out as much as possible on a drill press, with the table tilted, and then clean up with a chisel. In either case, mark the angle you wish to follow on the side of the block and use this to sight to when paring back to the end of the mortise. It's an interesting topic, so if I get a chance in the week, I'll shoot a quick 60sec video on it.

[@thoperSought]

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD that's awesome, thank you. and if you have a chance to make the vid, I'll watch it enthusiastically!

[@STEVEBLACKA]

Hi Mitch , welcome back. A question from a man who has made nithing ..lol Could you leave the mortice and tenon at an angle and put pins in for decorative purposes or am i just being stupid..lol Steve

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Steve, Never stupid to ask - and yes you could. However the same arguments remain, that is, 'feather' edge where mortise has to undercut will be weaker and may break out, 'ramp' effect when clamping may dig tenon in too far or force it out. Clearly the effect with angles close to 90 degrees will only be slight. Practically, it's easier to chop a mortise accurately at 90 degrees, than to chop a ramp one end and an undercut the other. In my opinion, it's also quicker to chop the mortise at 90 degrees and square the tenon to fit. Decorative pins are fine, but if you drawbore a mortise and tenon that aren't prepared at 90 degrees (in the joint itself) then the ramp effect could throw the alignment out a bit. That reminds me, I should do a drawbore tutorial! Cheers, Mitch

[@STEVEBLACKA]

Had to read your reply a few times but i think i get it now...thanks Steve

[@mitchwoodwork]

Good stuff. Cheers, Mitch

[@lancemillward2462]

can you show us how to cut a wooden pin to lock the mortice and tenon together without glue.

[@mitchwoodwork]

You could drawbore the joint like this kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2iTlqyQq9x6orc

[@americanpatriot661]

Would this work for timber framing and knee braces

[@mitchwoodwork]

Rodney Boyce for sure, it would transfer the load down the post. There are some good timber framing resources online, where you might find other alternatives.

[@americanpatriot661]

I like the simplicity of this particular mortise & tenon joint for use with a knee brace , drill a hole for the peg and your done. Simple! Thx

[@chanceshermet]

I get it.. made sits inside WOOD. So to clarify I could use this method to create a mortis and tennon at any angle? What if I intend to use power tools? I want to make a vladimir kagan inspired coffee table but cant find any info on how the organic curved joints are made :'(

[@mitchwoodwork]

Chance Shermet unfortunately not - the more acute the angle, the less continuous long grain ends up in the tenon -> weak joint. You could however use a loose tenon, chopping a mortise into each piece. That way you can orient the grain for strength. I like the Kagan coffee tables, and I suspect they use loose tenon joinery. Thinking of the model 412, and each leg as a v, I would use a large loose tenon in an open mortise, so that a section extended from the base of the v. All three of these tenons could then meet inside a central triangular prism with three mortises. For strength to support a heavy glass top, I would screw an inset three leg metal brace on the underside of the joint area. Do all the joint work first, while the pieces are square, allowing for the final shaping. Then shape the v's once glued, fit all together, then fair all the pieces as a whole. Good luck, and please keep me updated on progress. /Mitch

[@chanceshermet]

Thanks a ton you helped a lot! unfortunately my design looks nothing like his COFFEE tables. its more like his lounge chair but table form. Still I will use loose tenon.. i considred tht they did tht but didnt know its name. Im new to furniture making.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Chance Shermet please take some pictures and let me see how you do. Happy woodworking, Mitch

[@Woodentoolcompany2]

I wondered how other people usually made angled tenon joints.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Pleased to be able to show you my way. Happy woodworking, Mitch

[@beantown_billy2405]

8:13 I think I will, Mitch

[@mitchwoodwork]

Go for it 😆

[@bhutch812]

Does this also work on a through-mortise?

[@mitchwoodwork]

The mortise length diminishes with depth, so it won't necessarily reach right through, but the principal holds true

[@bhutch812]

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thanks!

[@DinakarJayarajan]

I have a question - why do you have an angled cut on one end of the tenon?

[@mitchwoodwork]

In some cases one might want to transfer forces in a certain direction, for example down towards the ground. More particularly in time framing. Also, there is a compromise between the tenon size and the strength of the part with the mortise, and glue surface area. Generally the design I've shown works well.

[@DinakarJayarajan]

@@mitchwoodwork Thanks for the response. WHat is time framing?

[@mitchwoodwork]

Oops, that was a predictive text mistake. I meant timber framing, as in buildings made from large timbers using unglued joints often secured with wooden pins

[@darekcituk491]

this kind of precision gave me instant teeth ache! :) nevertheless, excellent job..

[@mitchwoodwork]

😂Cheers

[@peterdaly3957]

the shoulders keep it tidy

[@baileysbootstraps8170]

After 4yrs of woodworking. Managed to get away without M&Ts. I was asked to make a wooden arch. 6"x6" and 5ft long (top beam). Two uprights 8t 3"x4". NO getting away with it anymore. Needed 2 M&Ts. Practiced all day yesterday and was really pleased with the result (well blown away really) !! Sat looking at it for ages ! NOW the dilemma. I would just love to do a joint like this but one small mistake....the whole project goes down ! The guys plaid me £50 for the timber ! I'm desperately trying to work out "what" mistakes I might make and then how I might hide them ! Thanks for a really great vid. Cant wait to practice this one. Happy days. PS. I make toy wooden lorries my shop is Gift of Wood @ Folksy.com give you an idea what I'm doing. (No M&Ts)

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Richard, You might want to model a cross-section of the arch in card, showing the joints, to ensure it will all go together once cut! Love the lorries - bet they're popular at those prices too.

[@baileysbootstraps8170]

Thanks. A great idea (why didn't I think of that?) see, cant even get the first stage completed.!!!! I'll be right on it tomorrow. Hope you wont mind, but I'll tell the missus I thought of it. ;) Re: Lorries, A week ago sold 7 to a lady who is marrying her Trucker man they're going to be used at the reception as flower displays ! and the "Super Truck to go on the grooms table.!!!!! Also have sold two as memorials for the children's graves. When I started making them (about 3 yrs ago), I just wanted to make some young person happy at Christmas !!!!! Strange when you start certain things, where it can lead you. Thanks for the reply. Have a great weekend.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Mums the word 😉

[@herrroy4963]

Thanks a lot!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers