Most Essential 1930s Ford V8 Mods to Make it a Daily Driver

[@don66hotrod94]

"Whenever I hear a 6 volt car starting I kinda die inside." Classic! I thought I was the only one.

[@buzzwaldron6195]

LOL! Cross your fingers... although we had 6 volt cars in 1950s and they always started...

[@DrTheRich]

My car has six volt, it starts immediately, no idea what you are talking about.

[@thejay8963]

​@@buzzwaldron6195 Yes, I'm sure 70 years ago they worked alright, but we aren't living 70 years ago now.

[@HawleyCrippen-q2q]

My 29 Ford is still volt. No problem with it at all.

[@obeseperson]

@@DrTheRich oh so your car stars fast, must not be an issue for anyone else on the planet huh Numbnuts

[@Shiftyspeedshop]

Please change the plastic line to your aftermarket oil pressure guage. You can get a copper line set for around 10.00. The plastic lines break, and you have an open oil line either in the cab or on the engine.

[@brandonquinto4852]

I love these cars - I'm always glad to see someone who likes them mostly stock instead of completely hot-rodded

[@musewolfman]

The funny thing is, we see this as mostly stock today, but I would wager this would be a hot little sleeper for it's day. Bored 0.80 over, bigger carb, etc.

[@buzzwaldron6195]

Best mod would be what Cadillac did with flat heads, take the exhaust out of the top of the engine... instead of routing it down through the entire engine and overheating the coolant if you drove it fast for very long...

[@trickyricky12147]

​@@musewolfmanOh definitely. There's no replacement for displacement is what this mostly stock sleeper in video lives by.😉

[@NYCS19339]

@@buzzwaldron6195 I never thought about that being the reason they did that. My 1930 V8 is just like that. I tell people who haven't seen it that I had a mid life crisis and bought a 5 passenger front mid engined sports sedan. I add that it has 19" wheels, torque tube to the rear axle, dual plate clutch, optional high compression heads, aluminium block, porcelain coated exhaust manifold, dog leg 1st gear, full tool kit, giant brakes. Then I'd complain about the lack of luggage space and that it doesn't have a dipstick just a gauge, and that it has a separate start button instead of just using the key. I usually add that the neighborhood kids say it looks "gangster". No one guesses 1930 Cadillac.

[@buzzwaldron6195]

@@NYCS19339 - Ford did that trick with their racing flatheads... or reversed the flow...

[@seandoole6504]

Nicely done! These are the cars I like at a show. They're close enough to what they should be stock, but they're modified and adjusted in clever ways that make them better while still being true to what they are. It's the sort of thing I usually strive to do with my own classics.

[@Datek99899]

I like to call it OEM+

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Much better than putting a Chevy engine in it, much better than sub-framing it.

[@RaymondPessagno]

Nice, glad he didnt cut it up, chop top ect.

[@berinchtein]

Everything was awesome until the LED headlights. Modern LED bulbs are not made for these types of reflective housings, the reason you aren't able to see much could be because it doesn't emit light in an ideal pattern and it just blinds the other drivers. I would recommend using high-quality halogen bulbs with a proper conversion kit

[@danielhomant2832]

I don't have the supplier, but they make LED bulbs specifically for these pre-war cars, even available with a slightly yellow tint so as to preserve the original halogen look rather than ultra-white or blue look.

[@allstarwoo4]

All LEDs are not bad. Also it's a pretty easy fix for super bright LEDs. Give it less power. The problem as to why everyone complains is how we rated lights. Before the limiting factors in light was the electricity or more accurately the heat from electricity so we rated them in watts. LEDs are so efficient the lumens out produce the watts. Now tricking your cars computer into thinking it's fine is another thing.

[@galaxya69samsung36]

Luckily there's no computer to be said here.

[@bryanayers6104]

Your comment on LED replacement bulbs in early headlights isn't entirely true - there are LED bulbs available that will work in early headlights...

[@bryanayers6104]

Lense fluting creates the light pattern, not the bulb...

[@michaelfred8848]

I’m 82 and love that car and appreciate your knowledge. I have always felt that what you’ve done is all that the manufacturers needed to do instead of changing the body style every year. I enjoyed the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s the best. I remember a cousin from Detroit who drove a 50 Ford convertible with dual Hollywood mufflers that sounded like music to my young ears 😅

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you for the comment! It's hard to argue with dual exhaust on a flathead V8. - Craig

[@gordonwallin2368]

@@AutoEsoterica Or ANY V-8 Cheers from the Pacific West Coast of Canada.

[@Carstuff111]

You, sir, have a gorgeous car that has all the perfect mods to make it a perfect driver's car. I appreciate folks that drive cars like this. I knew a gentleman in Cooper, Texas about 27 years ago still daily driving a Ford Model T that he bought back in 1956. I picked his brain while I was getting gas in my mom's car and he was fueling his 'T. It was far from stock, he had made modifications to it since the day he bought it. He told me it topped out about 80 MPH as I saw it, but at his age, 50 was plenty fast enough. It did not look much like a Model T anymore, and it looked worn down at first glance, but the man did some beautiful work on it over his years. Its 4 cylinder engine started at the touch of the key, he adjusted the spark and throttle, and the car effortlessly pulled away from the pump and it wafted along with a much more aggressive but great tone from the exhaust than I ever heard from any normal Model T I have seen in person. Sorry for the rant, I envy folks with these vehicles, I have a couple of 1990s Honda's and people give me issues about driving "old" cars, and I would love to have a collection of truly vintage iron.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Love this story! Thank you for sharing!

[@AutoEsoterica]

80 MPH IN A MODEL T?! I'm sure it's possible, but it's also absolutely insane. I drove a T once, and 35 felt like the end of the world, LOL. I appreciate people that leave their cars rough -- not rotted out or beat up -- but patinaed. They can drive them and enjoy them without worrying about rain or dirt, dents or dings. I'm restoring a '51 Ford Crestliner right now and my initial plan was to leave the car rough, so I could drive it anywhere, anytime, but the finish and body were too far gone for that, so I ended up embarking on a full at-home restoration. I guess you call that mission creep. - Craig

[@trickyricky12147]

Bruh, people give you issues about driving a 90s car? That's insane.😭 They have your standard safety equipment like seat belts, crumple zones and airbags. Maybe not a backup rear view camera, but who needs that in vehicle that's not a truck or SUV. Smh some people.🤦‍♂️

[@v8pilot]

My dad was sent to Germany at the close of the war to interview German scientists and engineers as part of the British Intelligence Objectives Sub-Committee (BIOS) programme. The team had three Ford V8 military staff cars. His had a 12V system the other two were 6V. He said that, in the winter weather, they would get his 12V car started and then they would then use it to tow-start the 6V cars.

[@NYCS19339]

Never had an issue with cold weather starts on my Pontiac with 6 v.

[@v8pilot]

@@NYCS19339 Conditions in NY (or wherever you are) may be different from Germany in 1945-6 (US army gasoline 50-60 octane, condition of batteries, maintenance of cars etc).

[@NYCS19339]

@v8pilot yes, very likely bad fuel wouldn't help. I had 1984 cheap gasoline in Ohio and Indiana.

[@antikythera42]

I saw a blue 41 Ford coupe where the guy had installed a third brake light but made it look like it came stock from the factory that way with a vintage looking light with chrome bezel and matching upholstery around the light

[@Bata.andrei]

I'm mostly a GM guy, but there is something about the sound of old Ford V8's that resonate with me. I would put the sound of a flathead just next to the sound of a goo old NailHead Buick. I could listen to them idle all day long.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks to those weird exhaust passages in the block, nothing sounds quite like a Ford flathead V8. The Buick Nailhead's a great engine, too, and the Ford Y-Block has a pretty unique sound as well. - Craig

[@murmenaattori6]

It's like listening to a harley davidson, you just don't get tired of it.

[@chucknaill]

Excellent improvements and you kept the stock appearance. Bravo!!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks! A few relatively simple changes really improved the drivability of the car. - Craig

[@bruceh92]

I think it looks beautiful, 10 out of 10, and the driveline with your mods is just perfect.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Like I said, I wanted the car to speak with its original voice, though I'm not opposed to making some commonsense upgrades. - Craig

[@BruceBoschek]

Thank you for your knowledgeable, competent and articulate presentation of the changes you recommend for these cars. It is very pleasant to hear someone speak competently, using proper English grammar and clear enunciation. Best regards from Germany.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for watching and commenting! - Craig

[@Schlipperschlopper]

@@AutoEsoterica How do you like this version? kzbin.info/www/bejne/g32uYaN7jpyDd9U

[@brianmatthews9697]

I laughed at your comment " like the brake rods rattling against the mufflers" I have a Model A, stock, so I know about the brake rods. I kinda gave up and live with it otherwise you can end up in the home for the bewildered. Most old cars make noises. Very nice car and sounds good. Good mod's. I have some simple ones on my A too. One thing I learned about my headlights was get good reflectors, they help a lot. Thanks for the video.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks so much! Yeah, I've basically given up trying to fix the brake rod rattle. I wish it didn't make that noise, but I've made my peace. - Craig

[@brianmatthews9697]

@@AutoEsoterica I know you've made your peace but as an itinerant tinkerer, I can never let things rest! If you make sure your anti rattle/return springs are good and the slack is taken out of the rods, that does minimize it. Also check all the pins for wear. I'm sure you know this stuff but it only takes one little thing. BUT, my father told me "Fords were made to rattle" and he was usually right, about everything! Be well, I enjoy your presentation. You live in a pretty area too, looks a little like where I Iive. I'm not far from Hershey.

[@jeffmeyers8526]

Great video. I have a 1951 ford custom that many of the same “upgrades” as your ‘36. Love it. Keep em running!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Awesome! Thanks for the comment. It's funny you mention a 1951 Ford because I'm actually in the middle of restoring a '51 Crestliner. The rolling chassis is done, most of the body work is squared away and I'm attempting to make the upholstery myself. - Craig

[@billyjoejimbob56]

A fresh approach to old car video... Really enjoyed your information, clear organized subject matter, and concise naration. I drive a Model-T part time at Greenfield Village, so am very familiar with the earlier Ford! After Edsel finally woke Henry up, the progress Ford made in the next 10-12 years was remarkable. I will be following you!

[@KB10GL]

I would have thought that the Number one upgrade was HYDRAULIC BRAKES. The Hot Rod industry can also supply a power boosted dual circuit master cylinders that can be mounted underfloor, so are not obtrusive. A remote resevoir on the firewall makes checking & servicing a snap too. Being able to pull up before running into something is pretty high on my list of safety priorities. Of course, some suitable radial tyres when the existing cross ply ones are due for replacement is a good idea. All these things are standard equipment on modern cars for very good reasons, & those reasons apply to our older cars too.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Not a bad suggestion. Hydraulic brakes certainly have some big advantages, though you might be surprised how well the mechanicals work when fitted with floaters and properly setup. The '51 Ford Crestliner I'm currently restoring will, of course, have hydraulics, "Magic Action King-Size Brakes" as Ford's marketing department called them. The shoes and drums are MUCH LARGER than what earlier Fords came with, so I'm very curious to see how they perform. Thanks! - Craig

[@commodorenut]

I’m still a fan of mechanical brakes. We have 3 vintage Chevrolets in the immediate family, and I’ve done many miles in the 28. Sure the pedal effort is greater, and you need to adjust them just right, but they stop it well, and you don’t have to worry about changing the fluid or bleeding the brakes. Actually, it’s over 10 years and 20K miles since I last adjusted the 28’s brakes, and it still pulls up straight. Only the handbrake throw is a bit longer than it should be.

[@j81851]

You are a joy to listen to. Very articulate, purposed and have goals that improve not ruin the car. Those guys that chop them have little or noting left of the original/ Love your channel and subbed on this very video first time.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for your kind words! - Craig

[@aishayana4298]

I think that you’ve done an absolutely fantastic job of upgrading your 36 Ford. 12 volts is definitely a good idea. All of the upgrades you’ve done are exactly what I would have done. Your very intelligent and your so in touch with your car. I’ve been building flat head Fords for most of my life and I understand all of the downfalls and challenges of making the engines work their best. I run a machine shop just west of Boston that maybe going to the auction and everything being sold for pennies on the dollar. We’re 2 old guys that are from a different time and it seems like all of the Automotive Machine Shops are disappearing in the Boston area. If there’s any body out there that would like to operate a machine shop please let me know. I will teach you how to use every machine in the shop. I’ve been working for over 35 years building engines and my arthritis is slowing me down. Huge potential to make lots of money. $10,000 and all you have to do is pay your rent $1150 per month. 😊

[@jackandblaze5956]

Hi. I have developed horrible, crippling RA since Covid. It looks like I'm beginning to get it under control by eliminating several surprising things from my diet. The things that I've found that cause runaway inflammation in my case so far are a protein from wheat (not gluten), and Red dye #40 (which goes by several different names). The smallest amount of wheat or red #40 will cause excruciating pain for days. I can't even drink one beer or one shot of whiskey, because they have the wheat protein in them. If I chew a piece of red gum, the next day I will be in serious pain. Even the coating on some pills has Red #40. I guess when we get to a certain age our bodies just can't handle any more of the "poison" that we've been putting in them for years. I can still eat bread made out of corn, but I have to be careful. Even some cornbread has wheat in it these days. Also, soybean oil, margarine, seed oils, and anything modern or artificial (or with Omega 3 fat) is suspect. I found out by fasting when I was bedridden for over 24 hours. The arthritis pain began to subside after fasting for at least 24 hours. Then I introduced food one thing at a time until something triggered it again. Sardines in ex-v olive oil are a safe bet to break a fast with. Other simple, non processed foods also like an avocado, eggs cooked in bacon fat, or a good steak with salt but no steak sauce (food coloring). Organic fruit. Also look at your vitamins. Cheap vitamin E is made out of petroleum, cheap vitamin D3 is in soybean oil instead of ex-v olive oil. We don't have to accept being crippled. Good luck!

[@UncleRobsGarage]

​@@jackandblaze5956what does that have to do with cars?

[@jamesbosworth4191]

I like the newer bigger better engine, and upgrading to a 2 brush generator with a complete voltage regulator is a good thing, but it isn't necessary to switch to 12 volts. 6 volts will work fine PROVIDING you use 1 gauge or thicker battery cables, keep all connections clean and BRIGHT, make sure the starting motor's mating surface and the mating surface on the engine are CLEAN AND BRIGHT, and use a Group 2 or larger battery. If you try to use chain parts store 4 gauge battery cables, you will have no end of trouble. If your engine is under 200 cubic inches, you can get away with 2 gauge battery cables and a little Group 1 battery, but you still have to keep all connections and the starter mating surfaces clean and BRIGHT.

[@Popincourt-or4cf]

Sorry to hear it. We can’t afford to lose guys like you and your skills. You might have better luck advertising your shop on facebook marketplace, which seems to have eaten all its competitors.

[@Popincourt-or4cf]

Sorry to hear it. We can’t afford to lose guys like you and your skills. You might have better luck advertising your shop on facebook marketplace, which seems to have eaten all its competitors.

[@johnette6697]

What a beautiful car. Perfect modifications, while keeping the originality!

[@joemazzola7387]

I remember vacuum wipers on my dad's 59 Ford Galaxy 500 Town sedan When he bought a new 67 valiant signet I thought we had arrived Electric wipers and transistor radio we didn't have to wait for the tubes to warm up

[@AutoEsoterica]

Electric wipers and transistor radios were big leaps forward. Old tech is quaint and enjoyable to tinker with, but new stuff like that is often much better. Thanks for commenting! - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Your dad didn't spring for the optional double action pump. It is both a fuel pump and a vacuum pump. It was standard on the better cars - Mercury, Lincoln, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac, high-line Pontiac, DeSoto, Chrysler etc. but optional on Fords, and Chevys. Chrysler products came standard with electric wipers.

[@j.danaclark2166]

I upgraded my timing gears after the fiber gears popped on me one night on my old 300 six. They definitely have a little whine but they are a lifetime upgrade.

[@Patrick-xd8jv]

Very important upgrade

[@ervingoertzen7233]

My Dad was a Ford guy having had late30’s and 40’s Fords. One thing he did to them all , 12 volt change over but left the 6 volt starter. Never burnt one out, engines always fired up instantly.

[@entirelyturbo]

More automotive media needs to be like this today. Production quality is great for getting views, but 𝘈𝘊𝘛𝘜𝘈𝘓 mechanical aptitude on the part of the presenter, explained in an articulate, yet accessible, manner, is what puts this video into the next level of media competency, in my opinion. You've got a new subscriber and Instagram follower! Keep up the excellent work!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your kind words, and thanks for subscribing! - Craig

[@stephenchamp-op2cn]

You’ve done a beautiful, thoughtful job……..nice car !!!

[@the_realJP_]

I love all the little details and improvements that you’ve made to your car! I don’t have a 36’ Ford but I want one now 😅

[@paulsmallriver6066]

This model has been my favorite car since I was a boy ages ago. This video made me so happy.

[@ry491]

A stunning car with great mods . I am in the UK so this model is almost never seen . It's my favourite car of all time . Such style . Enjoy it my friend .

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! - Craig

[@Perpetrol_]

This channel is absolutely beautiful. I love all the work that goes into your videos and how nicely everything is explained without a crazy amount of editing and cuts.

[@Theutmostgeek]

I remember watching your sunday drive video of that beauty a while ago. Nice to see she is still kicking around.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks so much! - Craig

[@tettazwo9865]

Nicely modified, nicely presented!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much. Appreciate your comment! - Craig

[@horsepowerheritage]

Terrific video, Craig! Your car is a beaut and the mods are spot on. Glad I found your channel.

[@CubCadetMower]

I love your videos man. Ive always been a sucker for the Flathead V8s but other than the basic knowledge, I don't understand the motor. Thank you for the well made informational videos.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you! They'll never set the world on fire -- at least compared to more modern V8s -- but the flathead is a wonderful little engine and a HUGE LEAP beyond the Model A's four-cylinder. - Craig

[@Oridavis]

the videogrophy is top notch, i dont know why this channel hasnt blown up yet

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! - Craig

[@Schlipperschlopper]

@@AutoEsoterica How do you like this version? Best regards from Germany :-) kzbin.info/www/bejne/g32uYaN7jpyDd9U

[@colin_5839]

Some neat stuff there! Gotta say though, when you get a 6 volt system right it performs as well as 12. I had issues with my 36 Ford not starting or running well at all so finally I redid some of grounding wires on some of the electrical and mostly importantly I ran a brand new ground from the batter to the engine to replace the original one, making sure to clean all the connection points and after I did that that car starts and runs better than a new car lol. Starter cranks over super fast and the engine literally only turns a 1/4 to 1/2 a revolution and it just fires off. 12 volt conversion is nice but for those on a budget the 6 volt system can be made to work just fine if you make sure your grounds are good. One other really good idea to add to your list of mods is a master battery kill switch. I wired mine in between the ground post on the battery and the main ground wire going to the rest of the car and was able to neatly tuck it under the seat so you can hardly see it but it's easy to reach down and flick from outside or when sitting in the car. It can act as a simple anti theft mechanism, keeps the battery from draining when you aren't using the car and also can help prevent an electrical fire. I have them in all 3 of my vehicles and I think it's probably worth adding, especially when you have put so much time money and work into such a nice car like yours!

[@PeteLewis-m9z]

Greetings from the Uk. I am doing the same to my 1946 Rover. 3.9 diff ration, 4 speed with overdrive, neg earth, led lights, heater, seat belts, etc. All for safety and driveability in long journeys.

[@Low760]

20:18 vapour lock has always been an issue, been talked about in movies since the 70s. Great video. Great mods. The algorithm sent me here. But i have a 64' Volvo 122 and chrome plated the taillight internals so they are pretty bright thankfully. I have only an electric pump too

[@AutoEsoterica]

Appreciate your comment. Thanks for sharing. - Craig

great thing is that you are riding her daily such a lovely piece ,people restore cars & keep it in garage you are not the one of them you are living in this life you are damn right you know

[@thomaslee6894]

Idk what I expected out of this video, but wow, I learned so much and the pace was great. Awesome video!

[@randomstuff3201]

Beautiful car, and I really like the improvements you've made for reliability, driveability, and most importantly, safety.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! - Craig

[@zenithcoinsandhobbies]

When we were getting our 1940 Ford 2 door sedan going, my grandfather added a period set of aftermarket turn signals, which I definitely appreciate. I could definitely use hand signals, but the aftermarket set look really great.

[@leemiracle6840]

I had a 53 ford and loved the flathead, only problems i had was a bad water pump(that bolt inside the pump water pasage was a pain) and the timing gear that was so worn that the teeth were almost gone and it split btween the teeth and left me walking. I lived in Arizona and drove it as my ony car all summer and had very little cooling problems. Loved it. Miss it.

[@AutoEsoterica]

That's awesome! 1953 was the last year for the flathead in the U.S. The post-war Fords had pressurized cooling systems, and I think that's a huge help in keeping engine temps in check. - Craig

[@icecreamdaycatlin8896]

some lady totalled my 39 ford truck hotrod and have been devastated. it been a couple months and this just makes me want to finish rebuilding it

[@fred993a]

Craig - you are so wonderful to share this information - thank you.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@tremere613]

Wow! Just wow! I’m slowly falling in love with these early Fords. I have to say you are most definitely saving these cars by showing the enthusiast world that.. with some small modern upgrades, these cars can still be driven in modern traffic. What are your thoughts on disc brakes?

[@AutoEsoterica]

These early Fords are pretty great. They're plentiful, affordable, many parts are still readily available, and you have no trouble keeping up with modern traffic. If you're looking for an old car, a Ford V8 is a good place to start. - Craig

[@Topper-gf8xl]

Thanks for posting. Great advice on the upgrades that make a real difference. Glad you kept the car so stock and really drive it.

[@RTDragonCommando]

I feel like anyone who engine swaps one of these without going full rod is missing the point of owning one. Nothing else sounds like a flathead, it just feels wrong to change it. I'm very glad you chose to go the route you did, and it's what I would do if I had the money to own something like this haha.

[@Aussie-HJW]

Sweet ride Mate, it's a credit to you.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your kind comment. - Craig

[@specialized29er86]

Great advise and upgrades, we to have some modern upgrades on our 1950's Humber including an extremely rare 5 speed manual gearbox.

[@davidfoley8329]

I totally agree with your point about adding brighter lights (and the CHMSL) to the back of the car. There are more than a couple cars out there with signal lights mounted down low like that, and it drive me a bit bonkers when I'm behind them. There's a handful of newer Hyundai products and others that do that with signal light, and/or brake light. I'm not a fan. Smart upgrade!

[@johnandrews6872]

Back in the day many owners used an 8 volt battery, and only adjusting the regulator, output, less expensive.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

AND, you can keep everything STOCK.

[@davidpalk5010]

Very good. The new Peewee Herman! Keep up the great work.

[@jsvtech8109]

Love this part😂 2:40. Nice car btw. It looks beautiful. Good Job!!

[@dewayneallen280]

Great Video! Thanks!!! Enjoyed it more than I thought, I am a car guy … love everything automotive! Very well done! Kept my attention the whole video!

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Glad you kept it all-Ford, but it is not necessary to convert to 12 volts. You could have upgraded to a 2 brush 6 volt generator with regulator. With the proper 1 gauge battery cables, NOT CHAIN AUTO PARTS STORE 4 GAUGE CABLES, it would have worked fine. There are even 8 volt batteries available, but you will have to re-calibrate the regular if you use one.

[@raphaelrodrigues1645]

Well, I'd say hat converting to 12 volts helps keeping the car in the road. Easier to ger bulbs and any other electric device, also it is easier to get batteries, to jump it and the starts are close to effortless

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@raphaelrodrigues1645 Yes, it is easier to get bulbs, and much easier to get batteries, and, for those who don't know any better, jump starts as well, but if you set the 6 volt system up CORRECTLY, meaning nice thick 1 gauge battery cables, NOT CHAIN PARTS STORE SKINNY 4 GAUGE CABLES, keep connections clean and BRIGHT, and make sure the mating surface for the starter and where its mounted to is also CLEAN AND BRIGHT, a 6 volt vehicle will start up just as nicely as a 12 volt vehicle. That slow cranking that so many under a certain age nowadays think is normal for 6 volts is NOT normal, no matter what the volts are. It means there is a problem.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@raphaelrodrigues1645 Also, keeping it 6 volts will allow you to use a stock radio, stock clock, stock lighter, stock heater fan, etc. without having to have a bunch of transformers scattered throughout. If you want more ooomf, just switch to an 8 volt battery. All you will have to do is re-calibrate the voltage regulator.

[@Santor-]

I can confirm, 6 volts work fine if it's maintained properly. Added bonus is 6 volt batteries don't seem to sulfate as easy. One don't change bulbs that often, but lots of smaller motorcycles still use 6 volts bulbs, so not really a problem needing to convert to 12 V for. Just keep a stash and your good.

[@UncleRobsGarage]

​@@jamesbosworth4191smart people go 12 volt

[@Barchenhund]

Hydraulic brakes not only for your safety but for the other drivers on the road. Sweet looking Coupe.

[@td3993]

My 1951 Chevy started so quickly on the 6 volt system. You need the right gauge battery cable. Headlights were plenty bright when the charging system was running at the correct 7.4 volts. The one thing I did do was swap the generator for an alternator. Merely took a 12 volt internally regulated alternator and rewired it for an external field coil terminal. Regulated it at 7.4 volts, and was able to run all accessories at idle without discharging the battery. The only risky thing was starting in cold weather. You needed to use 5W oil, not 10W, and then it would start in -10 degree Fahrenheit weather, but you basically got one shot. Choke, throttle, key, push button. Say a prayer. I also swappwd the regular coil for a 3 volt blaster coil with a series resistor that was bypassed when starting the car.

[@bugnut82]

Hey I agree, I drive a 6 volt 1962 VW bug. I got the correct gauge battery cable and those headlights are bright.

[@todds2248]

Beautiful car and thoughtful upgrades. But do yourself a favor and replace the plastic oil line to the cheap Autozone oil gauge with a copper upgrade kit. When it cracks (it will) it would suck to spray hot oil all over yourself and that beautiful interior.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Sounds like a smart suggestion. I never even thought of doing that. Do you have a good source for the upgraded copper tubing? Thanks! - Craig

[@joewaun894]

My engineer brain loves flathead engines and especially the flathead V8. I would absolutely love to make my own version and add dual under head cams and VVT because there valves will NEVER intersect the head you could do CRAZY things with Valve timing. What would be even better is a free valve like setup and maybe somehow do a variable combustion chamber with a "Plunger" in the head that moves almost a "reverse piston" to increase compression when needed and reduce when necessary.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks for the comment! If you think about it, the flathead is kind of like an upside-down overhead cam engine in that the valvetrain mass is very small and the cam directly actuates the valves. There are no heavy hydraulic roller lifters, no pushrods and no rocker arms. In modern OHV V8s like the GM LT family and Chrysler Hemi range, engineers are encouraged to make the valves as large as possible to flow as much air into and out of the engine as they can. Those big valves put even more mass in the system and require insanely heavy springs to control. I think this is a major reason why camshaft and lifter failure is reportedly an issue these days, that and the oil is lacking certain anti-wear additives and manufacturers may have cheapened their metallurgy. - Craig

[@skullsandflames123]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Everything you've done to it, I'm absolutely OK with. In fact, I think it's pretty much everything I would do. I can't say that I would add a center brake light, but I can see why you did. I can also see that it's apparently mounted with suction cups to the window. Hell, everything you've done can very easily be switched back to factory for those unnecessarily crazy "super purists", without any harm at all. So this car still has all the value as a restored original. Great video and great build, I'm here for it! I would like to also add, I noticed the blue dots in the tail lights. I put those on everything, even my '87 Suburban. It's a subtle homage to "old school" for me, and most people don't even know what they are. Yet, I have yet to figure out how to make them have the true effect with LED tail lights. I thought about adding an extra blue LED behind them to give the tail lights that purple look at a distance. If you figure that out, please let me know!

[@AZREDFERN]

I could never comprehend how noisy gears could be until my Honda ST1300. It’s all hardened straight cut gears, and it has a constant supercharger-like whine. A sacrificed to be made to make a compact-ish, high-ish power engine as reliable as the Gold Wing. I’ve seen some with some really smooth aftermarket exhaust, but the whine just gets louder. I’m all for doing whatever it takes to keep classics on the road, while trying to keep it original in concept. Even if it requires a modern fix to an old problem, or an entirely new flathead. Cars that just sit on display is just sad.

[@thesupacoop4002]

The stock 36 motor is 221 cubic inches not 239. First 239 was in the 39 Mercury. Great car overall

[@AutoEsoterica]

Yes, you are correct, however, I was referring to the 59L block I'm running in the car. That engine started out at 239 cubes (3 3/16" bore, 3 3/4" stroke). Thanks for the comment! - Craig

[@quagmiredavis4117]

​@@AutoEsotericadrop,a mercury crank and mercury heads 4inch stoke Smitty mufflers reds headers. Add marvel mystery oil in fuel helps lubricant everything and drive

[@clintonsmith9931]

Changing to 12 volts is the way to go. Changed a 6 volt Plymouth to 8 volts. You can reset the regulator but it blows headlights When you don’t want it to. Had a 36 Ford coupe with small block Chevy. It sure twisted the stock frame when my foot was on the floor.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@clintonsmith9931 8 volts does NOT blow the lights out too soon. No you don't need to switch to 12 volts, you just need to stop trying to use chain auto parts store 4 gauge battery cables. You MUST use 1 gauge or thicker. If your engine is under 200 cubic inches, you can probably get away with 2 gauge.

[@joepilbeam4722]

Nicely done!😊

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you! I appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@Boileddenim]

Thanks for sharing this video. This is absolutely fascinating!

[@matthewatchinson1421]

My grandfather bought a 36 Ford 5 Window coupe in 1946 with his buddies. They raced stockcar races with it. They sneakily dropped a 1942 Mercury V8 in it, dual downdraft Stromberg carbs, hotter cam, higher compression heads. Car took an absolute beating on the track as there were little to no rules.

[@matthewatchinson1421]

Your car is very nice, and exactly the kind of modifications owners would have made on their own cars in the 40s. I all those period correct hop ups or modded.

[@MrToranaGuy]

Very nice video, very well thought out modifications. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@jgwilliams5951]

Great channel . I love it ! Just discovered and subscribed as I found some great future ideas and features for my '36 5 window.......... and possibly for my late 50's '32 flat head hot rod. Thank You !

[@AutoEsoterica]

Awesome! Glad you found our channel and good luck with your '32 and '36 Fords. - Craig

[@AtomicReverend]

I agree with everything on the video other than the LED tail lights I don't care if they're safe They really take away from the look of a car lol. Also I would say installing/adding at least a set of lap belts would be a good addition.

[@AutoEsoterica]

I hear you on both counts. As for seatbelts, I've thought about installing them, but haven't. I know they can't hurt, but I also wonder how much they would help since there's literally zero safety equipment (aside from safety glass). The '51 Ford Crestliner I'm currently restoring will have seatbelts, however. I've planned that pretty much from day one. Thanks for the comment! - Craig

[@AtomicReverend]

@AutoEsoterica The LED lights just a personal preference If I'm being honest LED lights are definitely safer because they are brighter I just can't do it same thing with the third brake light Now that being said anything that increases visibility and safety is probably not a bad thing especially in the modern world where everybody has better brakes than a pre-war Ford and everyone is staring at a telephone while sitting in traffic. As for seat belts, for years and years well driving my 1960s and older vehicles I never wore a seatbelt because the cars didn't have them I've probably seriously put 200,000 miles on old cars and never had an issue because I am aware of my surroundings but by that same rationale it's not me I need to be concerned about It's the people behind me that aren't paying attention I honestly don't know how safe a lap felt really is when you consider that the steering column is non collapsible but I guess it can't really hurt (to wear a seatbelt) at least in comparison of going through a windshield. On the website the HAMB there is actually a few good articles people putting three-point belts in their cars going down the B pillar some of them look pretty good if I'm being honest and those I am sure would be safer than no belt at all and just like LED tail lights it kind of detract from the look of a car. I guess all in all If I really wanted to be safe I would just drive a late model car all the time and life is full of risk I guess. Anyways you've earned a new subscriber have a good New Year's.

[@redtra236]

@@AutoEsoterica Lap only belts especially can be not so great in some cases cause it causes you to slam your face/neck into the steering wheel/metal dash at an angle that might break your neck or skull instead of your body absorbing some of the impact. Especially if you have safety glass I'd go without in these. If you don't like LED lights aren't there some regular bulbs that are pretty bright? I do know LEDs can be a bit hard to see in the sun.

[@luclanglois9086]

This reminds me of my dads 1957 MGA, he modified in a way to make it run, feel and perform better. adding an electric fan so it doesnt overheat at idle or changing to a 12 volt system aswell but keeping everything original except for straight piping it lol

[@lenrichardson7349]

I had a 58 British Ford many years ago and the Vacuum wipers were at best interesting. The faster you went the slower they got until you hit about 30 mph and then you dare not go faster for fear they would stop altogether.

[@whiteyready5862]

Some allways complain about the original things beeing lost But if it prevents you from using the car get rid of it Its just a shame so many of these beautifull cars never being driven because the owners dont like to drive or start it

[@AutoEsoterica]

Excellent comment! So many of these cars never get driven by their owners. And I get it, if you spent $100,000 to perfectly restore your dream '32 roadster or whatever, I can't blame you for being afraid to drive it. The car cost a fortune! I did not want that with my '36. One, I can't afford a 100% flawless restoration like that, and two, I don't want some Fabergé egg for the garage, something that just sits there and looks pretty. I want a car I can drive, enjoy and share with others. - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

6 volts will not keep a car from being used, trying to use skinny 4 gauge battery cables in a 6 volt car is what can keep it from being used.

[@Watchmaker_Gereon-Schloesser]

@@jamesbosworth4191 todays people are too stupid the grasp this tech. Also having an higher Ampère hour battery does "wonders". I hate it also if "they" fit alternators (AC) instead of the dynamos (DC). I want to have my car FREE of semiconductors! No LEDs I hate them too - close to laser tech, as it hurts the eyes in the night. Animals hate them too - to white and brite. My car is a Citroën Dyane of 1967 a luxury 2CV. I have yellow bulbs to have the same time allready fog-lights. It's very friendly to the eyes and holds the animals on the side of the road.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@Watchmaker_Gereon-SchloesserSo that's what a Dyane is? Never have seen one. My Grandmother had a 1958 DS 19 that she bought new. What a car! Too bad, though, Citroen couldn't afford to buy another automaker's small V8 or develop the proposed V6. Would have been sensational!

[@BonnieKay13]

6 volts, a '39 35 amp generator/reg', correct cables, a good starter, my 21 stud with 9 to 1 compression was fast, never a heat problem. Fitted to .001, 5-20 synthetic oil, it's a going machine, 8 tube radio, dial in center ash tray, all original gauges work great and... it's not the gas hog of those bigger engines. I did install tube shocks on my '36 touring sadan.

[@AutoEsoterica]

The flatheads are pretty fuel efficient, at least compared to later V8 engines. I think this is largely because of their somewhat limited displacement. Depending on how I drive, my car typically gets between 14 and 16 miles per gallon. If I had overdrive, I bet the thing would deliver more than 20 mpg. - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Now YOUR'S is the kind of machine I would like, except that I question the use of 5W-20 oil.

[@wtdonovan]

=) Next up, driver mods. We need a Fedora or Pork pie hat! Beautiful Ford. I genuinely enjoyed this mod list, I don't go back this far but hot rodding and classic motoring are the same hobby to me. Excellent esoteric car video.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for your comment. I don't have a "driving" hat, but maybe I'll have to get one. - Craig

[@wtdonovan]

@@AutoEsoterica 😃

[@dutifulbarrel9084]

Thats an amazing car! My girlfriend's uncle has a 40's Packard with the super 8. It's a beast. Im on my way to restoring a 84 Kawasaki kz 750, I hope to get it as close to stock as possible.

[@gatblau1]

Falklands War re-enactor? I didn’t know that was a thing. Beautiful car!

[@Alfadragon17]

Crazy thing about those timing gears is Ford still used then in some way up to the late 90s. The F series trucks with the 300 I6 had similar nylon fiber cam gears. My 1979 LTD with the 302 had nylon fiber cam gear and jumped time because the teeth broke off. My 1971 LTD Convertible 400 V8 also had nylon fiber cam gear as well it was perfect but I replaced it anyway. Long story short whether its Ford, GM, or Mopar they all used some variation of quiet cam gears.

[@Saullavado44]

Nice car. I would love to have one. Thanks for introducing me to this prospect. Go Detroit!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@MrChevybaja]

Aint nobody dont love a good CHMSL discussion. :)

[@AutoEsoterica]

The only thing more engaging is PRNDL talk ;P

[@MrChevybaja]

@@AutoEsoterica i always call it my Brenda PRNDL

[@crazytrain7114]

She's a beauty, you should be proud!

[@jasone3166]

I'm restoring a "28 Pontiac to be my daily driver and I want to keep it original as possible, but will make discrete modifications for safety and driveability on modern roads. I've heard/read that a 6V system is no worse at anything but the problem is that as things get replaced, owners have put smaller wires (higher gauge) that have become standard for 12V systems and so they are not large enough to push sufficient current through to the starter motor. I have replaced cables on lawn tractors with greater thickness and it does improve the starter performance. I enjoyed hearing about your upgrades. Have you considered the coolant that Jay Leno uses to help with cooling? Not really a modification, so maybe you do already.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Are you talking waterless coolant? If so, I have not looked into that. All I run in the car is the regular, old green stuff. The engine doesn't seem to mind. Thanks! - Craig

[@jasone3166]

Yes, I was thinking of waterless coolant. I had also recently decided to put sheet metal over the fabric portion of my roof for stuctural integrity. So it was interesting to hear that you did that. Like you, I will still cover the roof with the fabric to make it look original. I actually quite like the look of the fabric portion of your roof. An all steel roof makes the car look hot-rodded, which I'm not a fan of.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

If your engine easily overheats, just have the radiator recored with a thicker core. Problem solved.

[@jackjacko8706]

Starter motors can be run on 12 volts. But you need to keep a spare bendix spring in the glove box. Also the first time you you remove the starter , you get a ball peen hammer and dent the side of the sump in. Saves undoing engine mounts and jacking up engine . I think the side valve V8 has a better sound than overheads. A side note, resting your hand on the gear lever puts pressure on the brass Synchro ring , which can eventually snap.

[@greggv8]

I'd upgrade to hydraulic brakes. Ford was the holdout on mechanical brakes until he was pretty much forced to adopt hydraulic. If you want your bumpers to be shinier without the expense of chrome plating, there's Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome and the clear coat that goes with it. To get the best results, what you spray the paint on has to be as smooth as glass. Get the airbrush clear and chrome in bottles, not the spray can version. Airbrush on the clear and let it fully dry. Then apply multiple light coats of the chrome and let it fully dry. It should shine like chrome. It can be buffed with a lint free cloth, use no polish or wax, then apply more chrome. Then airbrush on more clear. Apply enough clear and it can be wet sanded with progressively finer grits then buffing compound. This Spaz Stix paint was created to be used on the inside surface of vacuum formed Lexan bodies for radio controlled cars. But it also works on front or back surfaces of glass and various clear plastics, including styrene and urethane resins. Spray it on glass or smooth styrene like the lid of a CD jewel case and you have an instant mirror. The company also makes white and black backer paint for protecting the chrome paint when used in back surface applications. There's a similar paint from Rustoleum called Mirror Effect but it only works in back surface applications. Its outer facing surface just looks like "metallic" silver paint. It's also not compatible with styrene. When applied to glass it's not quite as reflective as the Spaz Stix chrome. It's only available in spray cans, of larger size and lower price than the Spaz Stix paint. Rustoleum Mirror Effect is also available in gold but you will not ever find it stocked in a physical store and it's not easy to find for sale online. I've used it and found it doesn't make a mirror reflective coating, even on glass, but it's a smooth metal look, not at all "metallic" flaky. Krylon makes a paint they call Mirror Look. It's designed for back surface use on glass, intended to mimic the look of "mercury glass". It makes a shiny look but it's not mirror reflective and is hellaciously stinky until it dries. There are many paints of varying price claiming to be able to produce a chrome like, reflective finish. There's a lot of KZbin videos where people have tested them VS the company videos that of course show their products in the best light. Or instead of paint, there's chrome vinyl wrap. I see many sources for 1 foot by 6.5 foot rolls. One roll should work for each bumper. If it gets chewed up, peel it off and put new on.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Appreciate the comment! I'll have to look into Spaz Stix for future projects, though, a chrome-like vinyl wrap is particularly intriguing. - Craig

[@Steve_in_VA]

Great looking car! I love that you have black walls. Did you upgrade to radials? The majority of cars had black wall tires at the time yet most every antique has white walls today. Most of the upgrades are invisible as well and many would be useful on any flathead. Great build!

[@promoskvichi]

Thank you for all your videos!!!! Whith best regards from Russia:)

[@anthonycassata5152]

Super cool ride. But, I would be tempted to put a more modern drive train and a/c. But keep the exterior the same. That would also include modern brakes.

[@needleonthevinyl]

It's true that if your valves make contact with a piston in a 239, you've got bigger problems haha. Also, that tach setup feels like it would be a period correct aftermarket mail-order accessory.

[@MrKamuffel]

Top Notch Show and Car, congrats. Wish my Cardealer has such a Nugget in Showroom today and not the new Garbage!

[@T_TanksTinkers1066]

man that 3rd brake light is such a big deal even when your dealing with not as old cars! I retrofitted one on my suzuki samurai with a geo tracker 3rd brake after nearly getting rear ended by a chevy tahoe that was tail gating! the factory brake lights are below the knee so its made things a LOT safer. And running ALL led lights its so much easier an less strain on the electrical system

[@Ken19700]

The height of the tire x .12 gives you a 1 to 1 ratio for your differential. That's generally best for highway use.

[@frodehau]

Nice car. With a gear lever that long you'll put a lot of pressure on the shifter fork when you rest your hand on it. That'll probably cause excessive wear on the contact points against the collar.

[@stephenhauer9055]

I clicked on this video because of the car content but then I saw you were a Falklands War reenactor. Now my question is why the Falklands specifically? I didn't even know there were people reenacting that war. My uncle served and fell there in 82.

[@charlesdalton985]

Great improvements for keeping the car on the road in modern times. I read your comment on the mechanical brakes. For me, just my opinion, for an infrequently driven car, they are an advantage as many hydraulic systems don't respond well to storage. Thank you for this, well done and very interesting.

[@knowernoah]

Nothing cooler then an old car with some upgrades! Electric fans help, as well as avoiding ethanol fuel because of issues with vapour lock

[@billdewahl7007]

The definition of tastefully modified. Hate the stickers and LEDs though. Just a personal aversion to them though I admit the rationale makes sense. At least for the lights lol

[@AutoEsoterica]

Fair enough!

[@danielbuckner2167]

You can also run an 8ba and change the dizzy to an early style and switch the water pumps and pulleys to match. It doesn't have the tell-tale 59 center dump rad hoses. though some guys run the 8bas and then block one water passage and run the 59ab heads to get that look intentionally.

[@Iowa599]

Why no sunroof? If you make that roof lift ~1" in back you will get amazing cabin ventilation! i added a hood scoop to the roof of my XJ, backwards, as close to the back as I could get it!. I didn't need AC in Florida!

[@tomrichard8240]

Excellent article!

[@Mrelectric423]

I have a 35’ ford slant back 2 door and I’ve taken a similar approach. Keep it mostly original save a few upgrades to make driving regularly more realistic. I replaced the head gaskets recently and enjoyed the experience. Wish I had the 24 stud motor but my 21 stud is still hanging on despite somewhat low compression in two cylinders. I missed the Hershey show but I’m in CA so it’s too far. Great video!

[@professorright]

Really good content. Keep it up.

[@dennisjackson3531]

Great work on car and presentation