Most Essential 1930s Ford V8 Mods to Make it a Daily Driver

[@brandonquinto4852]

I love these cars - I'm always glad to see someone who likes them mostly stock instead of completely hot-rodded

[@musewolfman]

The funny thing is, we see this as mostly stock today, but I would wager this would be a hot little sleeper for it's day. Bored 0.80 over, bigger carb, etc.

[@buzzwaldron6195]

Best mod would be what Cadillac did with flat heads, take the exhaust out of the top of the engine... instead of routing it down through the entire engine and overheating the coolant if you drove it fast for very long...

[@seandoole6504]

Nicely done! These are the cars I like at a show. They're close enough to what they should be stock, but they're modified and adjusted in clever ways that make them better while still being true to what they are. It's the sort of thing I usually strive to do with my own classics.

[@Datek99899]

I like to call it OEM+

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Much better than putting a Chevy engine in it, much better than sub-framing it.

[@RaymondPessagno]

Nice, glad he didnt cut it up, chop top ect.

[@don66hotrod94]

"Whenever I hear a 6 volt car starting I kinda die inside." Classic! I thought I was the only one.

[@buzzwaldron6195]

LOL! Cross your fingers... although we had 6 volt cars in 1950s and they always started...

[@DrTheRich]

My car has six volt, it starts immediately, no idea what you are talking about.

[@thejay8963]

​@@buzzwaldron6195 Yes, I'm sure 70 years ago they worked alright, but we aren't living 70 years ago now.

[@HawleyCrippen-q2q]

My 29 Ford is still volt. No problem with it at all.

[@berinchtein]

Everything was awesome until the LED headlights. Modern LED bulbs are not made for these types of reflective housings, the reason you aren't able to see much could be because it doesn't emit light in an ideal pattern and it just blinds the other drivers. I would recommend using high-quality halogen bulbs with a proper conversion kit

[@danielhomant2832]

I don't have the supplier, but they make LED bulbs specifically for these pre-war cars, even available with a slightly yellow tint so as to preserve the original halogen look rather than ultra-white or blue look.

[@allstarwoo4]

All LEDs are not bad. Also it's a pretty easy fix for super bright LEDs. Give it less power. The problem as to why everyone complains is how we rated lights. Before the limiting factors in light was the electricity or more accurately the heat from electricity so we rated them in watts. LEDs are so efficient the lumens out produce the watts. Now tricking your cars computer into thinking it's fine is another thing.

[@galaxya69samsung36]

Luckily there's no computer to be said here.

[@bryanayers6104]

Your comment on LED replacement bulbs in early headlights isn't entirely true - there are LED bulbs available that will work in early headlights...

[@bryanayers6104]

Lense fluting creates the light pattern, not the bulb...

[@michaelfred8848]

I’m 82 and love that car and appreciate your knowledge. I have always felt that what you’ve done is all that the manufacturers needed to do instead of changing the body style every year. I enjoyed the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s the best. I remember a cousin from Detroit who drove a 50 Ford convertible with dual Hollywood mufflers that sounded like music to my young ears 😅

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you for the comment! It's hard to argue with dual exhaust on a flathead V8. - Craig

[@gordonwallin2368]

@@AutoEsoterica Or ANY V-8 Cheers from the Pacific West Coast of Canada.

[@Carstuff111]

You, sir, have a gorgeous car that has all the perfect mods to make it a perfect driver's car. I appreciate folks that drive cars like this. I knew a gentleman in Cooper, Texas about 27 years ago still daily driving a Ford Model T that he bought back in 1956. I picked his brain while I was getting gas in my mom's car and he was fueling his 'T. It was far from stock, he had made modifications to it since the day he bought it. He told me it topped out about 80 MPH as I saw it, but at his age, 50 was plenty fast enough. It did not look much like a Model T anymore, and it looked worn down at first glance, but the man did some beautiful work on it over his years. Its 4 cylinder engine started at the touch of the key, he adjusted the spark and throttle, and the car effortlessly pulled away from the pump and it wafted along with a much more aggressive but great tone from the exhaust than I ever heard from any normal Model T I have seen in person. Sorry for the rant, I envy folks with these vehicles, I have a couple of 1990s Honda's and people give me issues about driving "old" cars, and I would love to have a collection of truly vintage iron.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Love this story! Thank you for sharing!

[@AutoEsoterica]

80 MPH IN A MODEL T?! I'm sure it's possible, but it's also absolutely insane. I drove a T once, and 35 felt like the end of the world, LOL. I appreciate people that leave their cars rough -- not rotted out or beat up -- but patinaed. They can drive them and enjoy them without worrying about rain or dirt, dents or dings. I'm restoring a '51 Ford Crestliner right now and my initial plan was to leave the car rough, so I could drive it anywhere, anytime, but the finish and body were too far gone for that, so I ended up embarking on a full at-home restoration. I guess you call that mission creep. - Craig

[@antikythera42]

I saw a blue 41 Ford coupe where the guy had installed a third brake light but made it look like it came stock from the factory that way with a vintage looking light with chrome bezel and matching upholstery around the light

[@BruceBoschek]

Thank you for your knowledgeable, competent and articulate presentation of the changes you recommend for these cars. It is very pleasant to hear someone speak competently, using proper English grammar and clear enunciation. Best regards from Germany.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for watching and commenting! - Craig

[@jeffmeyers8526]

Great video. I have a 1951 ford custom that many of the same “upgrades” as your ‘36. Love it. Keep em running!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Awesome! Thanks for the comment. It's funny you mention a 1951 Ford because I'm actually in the middle of restoring a '51 Crestliner. The rolling chassis is done, most of the body work is squared away and I'm attempting to make the upholstery myself. - Craig

[@chucknaill]

Excellent improvements and you kept the stock appearance. Bravo!!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks! A few relatively simple changes really improved the drivability of the car. - Craig

[@aishayana4298]

I think that you’ve done an absolutely fantastic job of upgrading your 36 Ford. 12 volts is definitely a good idea. All of the upgrades you’ve done are exactly what I would have done. Your very intelligent and your so in touch with your car. I’ve been building flat head Fords for most of my life and I understand all of the downfalls and challenges of making the engines work their best. I run a machine shop just west of Boston that maybe going to the auction and everything being sold for pennies on the dollar. We’re 2 old guys that are from a different time and it seems like all of the Automotive Machine Shops are disappearing in the Boston area. If there’s any body out there that would like to operate a machine shop please let me know. I will teach you how to use every machine in the shop. I’ve been working for over 35 years building engines and my arthritis is slowing me down. Huge potential to make lots of money. $10,000 and all you have to do is pay your rent $1150 per month. 😊

[@jackandblaze5956]

Hi. I have developed horrible, crippling RA since Covid. It looks like I'm beginning to get it under control by eliminating several surprising things from my diet. The things that I've found that cause runaway inflammation in my case so far are a protein from wheat (not gluten), and Red dye #40 (which goes by several different names). The smallest amount of wheat or red #40 will cause excruciating pain for days. I can't even drink one beer or one shot of whiskey, because they have the wheat protein in them. If I chew a piece of red gum, the next day I will be in serious pain. Even the coating on some pills has Red #40. I guess when we get to a certain age our bodies just can't handle any more of the "poison" that we've been putting in them for years. I can still eat bread made out of corn, but I have to be careful. Even some cornbread has wheat in it these days. Also, soybean oil, margarine, seed oils, and anything modern or artificial (or with Omega 3 fat) is suspect. I found out by fasting when I was bedridden for over 24 hours. The arthritis pain began to subside after fasting for at least 24 hours. Then I introduced food one thing at a time until something triggered it again. Sardines in ex-v olive oil are a safe bet to break a fast with. Other simple, non processed foods also like an avocado, eggs cooked in bacon fat, or a good steak with salt but no steak sauce (food coloring). Organic fruit. Also look at your vitamins. Cheap vitamin E is made out of petroleum, cheap vitamin D3 is in soybean oil instead of ex-v olive oil. We don't have to accept being crippled. Good luck!

[@UncleRobsGarage]

​@@jackandblaze5956what does that have to do with cars?

[@jamesbosworth4191]

I like the newer bigger better engine, and upgrading to a 2 brush generator with a complete voltage regulator is a good thing, but it isn't necessary to switch to 12 volts. 6 volts will work fine PROVIDING you use 1 gauge or thicker battery cables, keep all connections clean and BRIGHT, make sure the starting motor's mating surface and the mating surface on the engine are CLEAN AND BRIGHT, and use a Group 2 or larger battery. If you try to use chain parts store 4 gauge battery cables, you will have no end of trouble. If your engine is under 200 cubic inches, you can get away with 2 gauge battery cables and a little Group 1 battery, but you still have to keep all connections and the starter mating surfaces clean and BRIGHT.

[@Popincourt-or4cf]

Sorry to hear it. We can’t afford to lose guys like you and your skills. You might have better luck advertising your shop on facebook marketplace, which seems to have eaten all its competitors.

[@Popincourt-or4cf]

Sorry to hear it. We can’t afford to lose guys like you and your skills. You might have better luck advertising your shop on facebook marketplace, which seems to have eaten all its competitors.

[@bruceh92]

I think it looks beautiful, 10 out of 10, and the driveline with your mods is just perfect.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Like I said, I wanted the car to speak with its original voice, though I'm not opposed to making some commonsense upgrades. - Craig

[@Bata.andrei]

I'm mostly a GM guy, but there is something about the sound of old Ford V8's that resonate with me. I would put the sound of a flathead just next to the sound of a goo old NailHead Buick. I could listen to them idle all day long.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks to those weird exhaust passages in the block, nothing sounds quite like a Ford flathead V8. The Buick Nailhead's a great engine, too, and the Ford Y-Block has a pretty unique sound as well. - Craig

[@billyjoejimbob56]

A fresh approach to old car video... Really enjoyed your information, clear organized subject matter, and concise naration. I drive a Model-T part time at Greenfield Village, so am very familiar with the earlier Ford! After Edsel finally woke Henry up, the progress Ford made in the next 10-12 years was remarkable. I will be following you!

[@ervingoertzen7233]

My Dad was a Ford guy having had late30’s and 40’s Fords. One thing he did to them all , 12 volt change over but left the 6 volt starter. Never burnt one out, engines always fired up instantly.

[@johnette6697]

What a beautiful car. Perfect modifications, while keeping the originality!

[@tettazwo9865]

Nicely modified, nicely presented!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much. Appreciate your comment! - Craig

[@brianmatthews9697]

I laughed at your comment " like the brake rods rattling against the mufflers" I have a Model A, stock, so I know about the brake rods. I kinda gave up and live with it otherwise you can end up in the home for the bewildered. Most old cars make noises. Very nice car and sounds good. Good mod's. I have some simple ones on my A too. One thing I learned about my headlights was get good reflectors, they help a lot. Thanks for the video.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks so much! Yeah, I've basically given up trying to fix the brake rod rattle. I wish it didn't make that noise, but I've made my peace. - Craig

[@brianmatthews9697]

@@AutoEsoterica I know you've made your peace but as an itinerant tinkerer, I can never let things rest! If you make sure your anti rattle/return springs are good and the slack is taken out of the rods, that does minimize it. Also check all the pins for wear. I'm sure you know this stuff but it only takes one little thing. BUT, my father told me "Fords were made to rattle" and he was usually right, about everything! Be well, I enjoy your presentation. You live in a pretty area too, looks a little like where I Iive. I'm not far from Hershey.

[@j81851]

You are a joy to listen to. Very articulate, purposed and have goals that improve not ruin the car. Those guys that chop them have little or noting left of the original/ Love your channel and subbed on this very video first time.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for your kind words! - Craig

[@paulsmallriver6066]

This model has been my favorite car since I was a boy ages ago. This video made me so happy.

[@j.danaclark2166]

I upgraded my timing gears after the fiber gears popped on me one night on my old 300 six. They definitely have a little whine but they are a lifetime upgrade.

[@Patrick-xd8jv]

Very important upgrade

[@Perpetrol_]

This channel is absolutely beautiful. I love all the work that goes into your videos and how nicely everything is explained without a crazy amount of editing and cuts.

[@Low760]

20:18 vapour lock has always been an issue, been talked about in movies since the 70s. Great video. Great mods. The algorithm sent me here. But i have a 64' Volvo 122 and chrome plated the taillight internals so they are pretty bright thankfully. I have only an electric pump too

[@AutoEsoterica]

Appreciate your comment. Thanks for sharing. - Craig

[@Theutmostgeek]

I remember watching your sunday drive video of that beauty a while ago. Nice to see she is still kicking around.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks so much! - Craig

[@Oridavis]

the videogrophy is top notch, i dont know why this channel hasnt blown up yet

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! - Craig

[@CubCadetMower]

I love your videos man. Ive always been a sucker for the Flathead V8s but other than the basic knowledge, I don't understand the motor. Thank you for the well made informational videos.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you! They'll never set the world on fire -- at least compared to more modern V8s -- but the flathead is a wonderful little engine and a HUGE LEAP beyond the Model A's four-cylinder. - Craig

[@colin_5839]

Some neat stuff there! Gotta say though, when you get a 6 volt system right it performs as well as 12. I had issues with my 36 Ford not starting or running well at all so finally I redid some of grounding wires on some of the electrical and mostly importantly I ran a brand new ground from the batter to the engine to replace the original one, making sure to clean all the connection points and after I did that that car starts and runs better than a new car lol. Starter cranks over super fast and the engine literally only turns a 1/4 to 1/2 a revolution and it just fires off. 12 volt conversion is nice but for those on a budget the 6 volt system can be made to work just fine if you make sure your grounds are good. One other really good idea to add to your list of mods is a master battery kill switch. I wired mine in between the ground post on the battery and the main ground wire going to the rest of the car and was able to neatly tuck it under the seat so you can hardly see it but it's easy to reach down and flick from outside or when sitting in the car. It can act as a simple anti theft mechanism, keeps the battery from draining when you aren't using the car and also can help prevent an electrical fire. I have them in all 3 of my vehicles and I think it's probably worth adding, especially when you have put so much time money and work into such a nice car like yours!

[@Alfadragon17]

Crazy thing about those timing gears is Ford still used then in some way up to the late 90s. The F series trucks with the 300 I6 had similar nylon fiber cam gears. My 1979 LTD with the 302 had nylon fiber cam gear and jumped time because the teeth broke off. My 1971 LTD Convertible 400 V8 also had nylon fiber cam gear as well it was perfect but I replaced it anyway. Long story short whether its Ford, GM, or Mopar they all used some variation of quiet cam gears.

[@Topper-gf8xl]

Thanks for posting. Great advice on the upgrades that make a real difference. Glad you kept the car so stock and really drive it.

[@jsvtech8109]

Love this part😂 2:40. Nice car btw. It looks beautiful. Good Job!!

[@zenithcoinsandhobbies]

When we were getting our 1940 Ford 2 door sedan going, my grandfather added a period set of aftermarket turn signals, which I definitely appreciate. I could definitely use hand signals, but the aftermarket set look really great.

[@MrKamuffel]

Top Notch Show and Car, congrats. Wish my Cardealer has such a Nugget in Showroom today and not the new Garbage!

[@Aussie-HJW]

Sweet ride Mate, it's a credit to you.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your kind comment. - Craig

[@randomstuff3201]

Beautiful car, and I really like the improvements you've made for reliability, driveability, and most importantly, safety.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! - Craig

[@icecreamdaycatlin8896]

some lady totalled my 39 ford truck hotrod and have been devastated. it been a couple months and this just makes me want to finish rebuilding it

[@td3993]

My 1951 Chevy started so quickly on the 6 volt system. You need the right gauge battery cable. Headlights were plenty bright when the charging system was running at the correct 7.4 volts. The one thing I did do was swap the generator for an alternator. Merely took a 12 volt internally regulated alternator and rewired it for an external field coil terminal. Regulated it at 7.4 volts, and was able to run all accessories at idle without discharging the battery. The only risky thing was starting in cold weather. You needed to use 5W oil, not 10W, and then it would start in -10 degree Fahrenheit weather, but you basically got one shot. Choke, throttle, key, push button. Say a prayer. I also swappwd the regular coil for a 3 volt blaster coil with a series resistor that was bypassed when starting the car.

[@Boileddenim]

Thanks for sharing this video. This is absolutely fascinating!

[@anthonycassata5152]

Super cool ride. But, I would be tempted to put a more modern drive train and a/c. But keep the exterior the same. That would also include modern brakes.

[@Iowa599]

Why no sunroof? If you make that roof lift ~1" in back you will get amazing cabin ventilation! i added a hood scoop to the roof of my XJ, backwards, as close to the back as I could get it!. I didn't need AC in Florida!

[@davidfoley8329]

I totally agree with your point about adding brighter lights (and the CHMSL) to the back of the car. There are more than a couple cars out there with signal lights mounted down low like that, and it drive me a bit bonkers when I'm behind them. There's a handful of newer Hyundai products and others that do that with signal light, and/or brake light. I'm not a fan. Smart upgrade!

[@v8pilot]

My dad was sent to Germany at the close of the war to interview German scientists and engineers as part of the British Intelligence Objectives Sub-Committee (BIOS) programme. The team had three Ford V8 military staff cars. His had a 12V system the other two were 6V. He said that, in the winter weather, they would get his 12V car started and then they would then use it to tow-start the 6V cars.

[@AtomicReverend]

I agree with everything on the video other than the LED tail lights I don't care if they're safe They really take away from the look of a car lol. Also I would say installing/adding at least a set of lap belts would be a good addition.

[@AutoEsoterica]

I hear you on both counts. As for seatbelts, I've thought about installing them, but haven't. I know they can't hurt, but I also wonder how much they would help since there's literally zero safety equipment (aside from safety glass). The '51 Ford Crestliner I'm currently restoring will have seatbelts, however. I've planned that pretty much from day one. Thanks for the comment! - Craig

[@AtomicReverend]

@AutoEsoterica The LED lights just a personal preference If I'm being honest LED lights are definitely safer because they are brighter I just can't do it same thing with the third brake light Now that being said anything that increases visibility and safety is probably not a bad thing especially in the modern world where everybody has better brakes than a pre-war Ford and everyone is staring at a telephone while sitting in traffic. As for seat belts, for years and years well driving my 1960s and older vehicles I never wore a seatbelt because the cars didn't have them I've probably seriously put 200,000 miles on old cars and never had an issue because I am aware of my surroundings but by that same rationale it's not me I need to be concerned about It's the people behind me that aren't paying attention I honestly don't know how safe a lap felt really is when you consider that the steering column is non collapsible but I guess it can't really hurt (to wear a seatbelt) at least in comparison of going through a windshield. On the website the HAMB there is actually a few good articles people putting three-point belts in their cars going down the B pillar some of them look pretty good if I'm being honest and those I am sure would be safer than no belt at all and just like LED tail lights it kind of detract from the look of a car. I guess all in all If I really wanted to be safe I would just drive a late model car all the time and life is full of risk I guess. Anyways you've earned a new subscriber have a good New Year's.

[@KB10GL]

I would have thought that the Number one upgrade was HYDRAULIC BRAKES. The Hot Rod industry can also supply a power boosted dual circuit master cylinders that can be mounted underfloor, so are not obtrusive. A remote resevoir on the firewall makes checking & servicing a snap too. Being able to pull up before running into something is pretty high on my list of safety priorities. Of course, some suitable radial tyres when the existing cross ply ones are due for replacement is a good idea. All these things are standard equipment on modern cars for very good reasons, & those reasons apply to our older cars too.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Not a bad suggestion. Hydraulic brakes certainly have some big advantages, though you might be surprised how well the mechanicals work when fitted with floaters and properly setup. The '51 Ford Crestliner I'm currently restoring will, of course, have hydraulics, "Magic Action King-Size Brakes" as Ford's marketing department called them. The shoes and drums are MUCH LARGER than what earlier Fords came with, so I'm very curious to see how they perform. Thanks! - Craig

[@commodorenut]

I’m still a fan of mechanical brakes. We have 3 vintage Chevrolets in the immediate family, and I’ve done many miles in the 28. Sure the pedal effort is greater, and you need to adjust them just right, but they stop it well, and you don’t have to worry about changing the fluid or bleeding the brakes. Actually, it’s over 10 years and 20K miles since I last adjusted the 28’s brakes, and it still pulls up straight. Only the handbrake throw is a bit longer than it should be.

[@joewaun894]

My engineer brain loves flathead engines and especially the flathead V8. I would absolutely love to make my own version and add dual under head cams and VVT because there valves will NEVER intersect the head you could do CRAZY things with Valve timing. What would be even better is a free valve like setup and maybe somehow do a variable combustion chamber with a "Plunger" in the head that moves almost a "reverse piston" to increase compression when needed and reduce when necessary.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks for the comment! If you think about it, the flathead is kind of like an upside-down overhead cam engine in that the valvetrain mass is very small and the cam directly actuates the valves. There are no heavy hydraulic roller lifters, no pushrods and no rocker arms. In modern OHV V8s like the GM LT family and Chrysler Hemi range, engineers are encouraged to make the valves as large as possible to flow as much air into and out of the engine as they can. Those big valves put even more mass in the system and require insanely heavy springs to control. I think this is a major reason why camshaft and lifter failure is reportedly an issue these days, that and the oil is lacking certain anti-wear additives and manufacturers may have cheapened their metallurgy. - Craig

[@fred993a]

Craig - you are so wonderful to share this information - thank you.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@davidpalk5010]

Very good. The new Peewee Herman! Keep up the great work.

[@RTDragonCommando]

I feel like anyone who engine swaps one of these without going full rod is missing the point of owning one. Nothing else sounds like a flathead, it just feels wrong to change it. I'm very glad you chose to go the route you did, and it's what I would do if I had the money to own something like this haha.

[@jackjacko8706]

Starter motors can be run on 12 volts. But you need to keep a spare bendix spring in the glove box. Also the first time you you remove the starter , you get a ball peen hammer and dent the side of the sump in. Saves undoing engine mounts and jacking up engine . I think the side valve V8 has a better sound than overheads. A side note, resting your hand on the gear lever puts pressure on the brass Synchro ring , which can eventually snap.

[@luclanglois9086]

This reminds me of my dads 1957 MGA, he modified in a way to make it run, feel and perform better. adding an electric fan so it doesnt overheat at idle or changing to a 12 volt system aswell but keeping everything original except for straight piping it lol

[@todds2248]

Beautiful car and thoughtful upgrades. But do yourself a favor and replace the plastic oil line to the cheap Autozone oil gauge with a copper upgrade kit. When it cracks (it will) it would suck to spray hot oil all over yourself and that beautiful interior.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Sounds like a smart suggestion. I never even thought of doing that. Do you have a good source for the upgraded copper tubing? Thanks! - Craig

[@MrToranaGuy]

Very nice video, very well thought out modifications. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@joepilbeam4722]

Nicely done!😊

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you! I appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@joemazzola7387]

I remember vacuum wipers on my dad's 59 Ford Galaxy 500 Town sedan When he bought a new 67 valiant signet I thought we had arrived Electric wipers and transistor radio we didn't have to wait for the tubes to warm up

[@AutoEsoterica]

Electric wipers and transistor radios were big leaps forward. Old tech is quaint and enjoyable to tinker with, but new stuff like that is often much better. Thanks for commenting! - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Your dad didn't spring for the optional double action pump. It is both a fuel pump and a vacuum pump. It was standard on the better cars - Mercury, Lincoln, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac, high-line Pontiac, DeSoto, Chrysler etc. but optional on Fords, and Chevys. Chrysler products came standard with electric wipers.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Glad you kept it all-Ford, but it is not necessary to convert to 12 volts. You could have upgraded to a 2 brush 6 volt generator with regulator. With the proper 1 gauge battery cables, NOT CHAIN AUTO PARTS STORE 4 GAUGE CABLES, it would have worked fine. There are even 8 volt batteries available, but you will have to re-calibrate the regular if you use one.

[@raphaelrodrigues1645]

Well, I'd say hat converting to 12 volts helps keeping the car in the road. Easier to ger bulbs and any other electric device, also it is easier to get batteries, to jump it and the starts are close to effortless

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@raphaelrodrigues1645 Yes, it is easier to get bulbs, and much easier to get batteries, and, for those who don't know any better, jump starts as well, but if you set the 6 volt system up CORRECTLY, meaning nice thick 1 gauge battery cables, NOT CHAIN PARTS STORE SKINNY 4 GAUGE CABLES, keep connections clean and BRIGHT, and make sure the mating surface for the starter and where its mounted to is also CLEAN AND BRIGHT, a 6 volt vehicle will start up just as nicely as a 12 volt vehicle. That slow cranking that so many under a certain age nowadays think is normal for 6 volts is NOT normal, no matter what the volts are. It means there is a problem.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@raphaelrodrigues1645 Also, keeping it 6 volts will allow you to use a stock radio, stock clock, stock lighter, stock heater fan, etc. without having to have a bunch of transformers scattered throughout. If you want more ooomf, just switch to an 8 volt battery. All you will have to do is re-calibrate the voltage regulator.

[@Santor-]

I can confirm, 6 volts work fine if it's maintained properly. Added bonus is 6 volt batteries don't seem to sulfate as easy. One don't change bulbs that often, but lots of smaller motorcycles still use 6 volts bulbs, so not really a problem needing to convert to 12 V for. Just keep a stash and your good.

[@UncleRobsGarage]

​@@jamesbosworth4191smart people go 12 volt

[@thesupacoop4002]

The stock 36 motor is 221 cubic inches not 239. First 239 was in the 39 Mercury. Great car overall

[@AutoEsoterica]

Yes, you are correct, however, I was referring to the 59L block I'm running in the car. That engine started out at 239 cubes (3 3/16" bore, 3 3/4" stroke). Thanks for the comment! - Craig

[@quagmiredavis4117]

​@@AutoEsotericadrop,a mercury crank and mercury heads 4inch stoke Smitty mufflers reds headers. Add marvel mystery oil in fuel helps lubricant everything and drive

[@clintonsmith9931]

Changing to 12 volts is the way to go. Changed a 6 volt Plymouth to 8 volts. You can reset the regulator but it blows headlights When you don’t want it to. Had a 36 Ford coupe with small block Chevy. It sure twisted the stock frame when my foot was on the floor.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@clintonsmith9931 8 volts does NOT blow the lights out too soon. No you don't need to switch to 12 volts, you just need to stop trying to use chain auto parts store 4 gauge battery cables. You MUST use 1 gauge or thicker. If your engine is under 200 cubic inches, you can probably get away with 2 gauge.

[@compu85]

On later transmissions resting your hand on the shifter will wear out the shift forks. Is that an issue with this early 3 speed?

[@AutoEsoterica]

Great question, and I don't know. I've heard people say, "Don't rest your hand on the shifter while driving!" but the gears and forks are all made of very high-quality, hardened steel. Also, I don't rest my hand there very much, and even if I did, the car doesn't get driven thousands and thousands of miles each year, so I'd bet nothing will wear out in my lifetime. Thanks for the comment! - Craig

[@billdewahl7007]

The definition of tastefully modified. Hate the stickers and LEDs though. Just a personal aversion to them though I admit the rationale makes sense. At least for the lights lol

[@AutoEsoterica]

Fair enough!

[@jasone3166]

I'm restoring a "28 Pontiac to be my daily driver and I want to keep it original as possible, but will make discrete modifications for safety and driveability on modern roads. I've heard/read that a 6V system is no worse at anything but the problem is that as things get replaced, owners have put smaller wires (higher gauge) that have become standard for 12V systems and so they are not large enough to push sufficient current through to the starter motor. I have replaced cables on lawn tractors with greater thickness and it does improve the starter performance. I enjoyed hearing about your upgrades. Have you considered the coolant that Jay Leno uses to help with cooling? Not really a modification, so maybe you do already.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Are you talking waterless coolant? If so, I have not looked into that. All I run in the car is the regular, old green stuff. The engine doesn't seem to mind. Thanks! - Craig

[@jasone3166]

Yes, I was thinking of waterless coolant. I had also recently decided to put sheet metal over the fabric portion of my roof for stuctural integrity. So it was interesting to hear that you did that. Like you, I will still cover the roof with the fabric to make it look original. I actually quite like the look of the fabric portion of your roof. An all steel roof makes the car look hot-rodded, which I'm not a fan of.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

If your engine easily overheats, just have the radiator recored with a thicker core. Problem solved.

[@professorright]

Really good content. Keep it up.

[@andy41417]

Using the 6 volt starter on 12 volt negative ground conversion. More reliable starts. Upgraded starter bendix too.

[@jamest.5001]

A 3.54 or 3.25 gear would be good with a 4 speed if it had a lower gear ratio. My dad and I always liked swapping in 50-60 drivetrain into older cars. Open drive, you can even put a t5, 5 speed with 3.55, 3.73 gears or 3.90 we put 3.90 gears in a 38 Chevy with a fully synchronized 3 speed, I wanted to go 5 speed.

[@montecorbit8280]

"chimzl".... Never heard it called that! All I heard it called was the "Dole light". Bob Dole's wife, Elizabeth Dole, was on the committee that pushed it through into law....

[@AutoEsoterica]

Interesting. I've never heard the term Dole light before, just CHMSL. - Craig

[@johnandrews6872]

Back in the day many owners used an 8 volt battery, and only adjusting the regulator, output, less expensive.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

AND, you can keep everything STOCK.

[@Santor-]

Great job on the luggage rack, looks like a far more expensive upgrade. A piknic basket seems like made for it.

[@tomrichard8240]

Excellent article!

[@chuck_machine]

@19:45 - how did you plumb an inline pump into the fuel system? Since it doesn’t run all the time, did you plumb it in parallel to the original fuel line?

[@AutoEsoterica]

Great question! I'm running an inline pump from Airtex. It mounts right in the fuel line -- there's only one line from the tank. When priming the carburetor or if there's vapor lock, I hit a momentary switch, and the electric pump pulls fuel from the tank and pressurizes the system. When I release the switch, the pump shuts off. Now, 99% of the time, the car runs off the engine-mounted mechanical fuel pump. It draws gas from the tank right through the Airtex pump, no problem at all. So basically, there's only one fuel line and the electric is only there when you need it. - Craig

[@Saullavado44]

Nice car. I would love to have one. Thanks for introducing me to this prospect. Go Detroit!

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Appreciate your comment. - Craig

[@BonnieKay13]

6 volts, a '39 35 amp generator/reg', correct cables, a good starter, my 21 stud with 9 to 1 compression was fast, never a heat problem. Fitted to .001, 5-20 synthetic oil, it's a going machine, 8 tube radio, dial in center ash tray, all original gauges work great and... it's not the gas hog of those bigger engines. I did install tube shocks on my '36 touring sadan.

[@AutoEsoterica]

The flatheads are pretty fuel efficient, at least compared to later V8 engines. I think this is largely because of their somewhat limited displacement. Depending on how I drive, my car typically gets between 14 and 16 miles per gallon. If I had overdrive, I bet the thing would deliver more than 20 mpg. - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

Now YOUR'S is the kind of machine I would like, except that I question the use of 5W-20 oil.

[@wtdonovan]

=) Next up, driver mods. We need a Fedora or Pork pie hat! Beautiful Ford. I genuinely enjoyed this mod list, I don't go back this far but hot rodding and classic motoring are the same hobby to me. Excellent esoteric car video.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much for your comment. I don't have a "driving" hat, but maybe I'll have to get one. - Craig

[@wtdonovan]

@@AutoEsoterica 😃

[@pa2922]

You have a wonderfull Ford! Respect Sir

[@Mrelectric423]

I have a 35’ ford slant back 2 door and I’ve taken a similar approach. Keep it mostly original save a few upgrades to make driving regularly more realistic. I replaced the head gaskets recently and enjoyed the experience. Wish I had the 24 stud motor but my 21 stud is still hanging on despite somewhat low compression in two cylinders. I missed the Hershey show but I’m in CA so it’s too far. Great video!

[@Rom3_29]

That’s a nice Ford and cool hobby.

[@gatblau1]

Falklands War re-enactor? I didn’t know that was a thing. Beautiful car!

[@frodehau]

Nice car. With a gear lever that long you'll put a lot of pressure on the shifter fork when you rest your hand on it. That'll probably cause excessive wear on the contact points against the collar.

[@jgwilliams5951]

Great channel . I love it ! Just discovered and subscribed as I found some great future ideas and features for my '36 5 window.......... and possibly for my late 50's '32 flat head hot rod. Thank You !

[@AutoEsoterica]

Awesome! Glad you found our channel and good luck with your '32 and '36 Fords. - Craig

[@fhwolthuis]

What a beautiful car! ❤ Still running diagonal tires? Which brand are those?

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Yes, I'm running bias-ply tires, Firestone 6.00 x 16s (cokertire.com/tires/600-16-firestone-blackwall.html). Discount Tire was able to order them for me. I looked at getting radials, but they were stupid money, just ridiculously expensive. The bias-ply tires were significantly cheaper, so I went that route. They do squirm around a bit on certain road surfaces, but overall they work quite well. Thanks so much for the comment! - Craig

[@danielpudelek9755]

Great video I never owned anything under a 1949 and up

[@rick343]

👍, Very nice ride. Love the mods

[@PCMenten]

Henry Ford didn’t want to pay the royalties for hydraulic brakes. I heard that mid-50’s F-100 spindles would swap onto Model A front axles. Maybe they’ll fit your vehicle. T-86/R10 o/d transmissions might fit. Fun project! Edit: seems like a bad idea to use rubber hoses in your oil system, and I would mount the oil pressure sensor and a gauge from the filter.

[@Haffschlappe]

Ive heard you can use HQ soviet Made army gears from their Uaz 469 and Volga 24 engines on Ford V8

[@JimErvin-d2i]

There's a few Model A applications there as well. But I don't think I'd put that tachometer where the original radio would go, if I had one at least.

[@nikonordman7624]

A dual pot master cylinder for the brakes is probably also a good mod for any older car that doesn't have one since you really don't want to loose all brakes

[@AutoEsoterica]

Can't argue with this, though pre-1939 Fords, of course, have "the safety of steel from pedal to wheel," so there are no wheel cylinders to seize up or leak, and you never have to bleed the system. - Craig

[@Haffschlappe]

First car going all Dday long 120 Kmh on first German Autobahn between Bonn and Cologne was major Conrad Adenauers 1932 Cologne Made Ford V8

[@Schlipperschlopper]

Yes Adenauer was mayor of Cologne before WW2 (after the War he became 1rst german Bundeskanzler) and was heavily involved in the Weimar Republic Autobahn Project, it was Adenauer who opened the first german Autobahn in 1932 between Cologne and Bonn, we know that much more expensive cars (even Mercedes and Horchs) had overheating problems with longer high speed traveling on that new highway but not the brandnew 1932 Ford V8 of the first Cologne built series (Top speed 120 KM/H that was a lot back in those country road dominated days) that was used by Mr Adenauer as personal limousine. He and huis driver happily cruised at top speed when other car owners ruined their much more expensive engines.

[@stephenhauer9055]

I clicked on this video because of the car content but then I saw you were a Falklands War reenactor. Now my question is why the Falklands specifically? I didn't even know there were people reenacting that war. My uncle served and fell there in 82.

[@Franknberrie]

Did you also change it to a negative ground? What was needed to use oem guages? And what about the circuit breaker?

[@AutoEsoterica]

Yes, the car is 12-volt, negative ground. As for running the original gauges, I have a voltage reducer under the dashboard. Most parts suppliers should sell these for a pretty reasonable price. - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@AutoEsoterica Changing to Negative Ground means that you can't use a stock radio, even with a voltage reducer.

[@jkhippie5929]

You might consider a carburetor spacer, it will keep it from leaning out, thus cooler :)

[@AutoEsoterica]

Believe it or not, I've actually tried two, one phenolic spacer and another flat plate that was made of two pieces of aluminum with a roughly quarter-inch layer of plastic in between. The flat one also had a part that extended underneath the float bowl to supposedly deflect heat away from the carburetor. Unfortunately, neither of these spacers did much to help with vapor lock, and the flat one eventually failed -- the plastic between the two bores eroded away, causing some maddening drivability issues that took a long time to diagnose. - Craig

[@jkhippie5929]

@@AutoEsoterica Can you text me what precise material you used for the Phenolic; because the stuff I used has worked great during the hot days.

[@whiteyready5862]

Some allways complain about the original things beeing lost But if it prevents you from using the car get rid of it Its just a shame so many of these beautifull cars never being driven because the owners dont like to drive or start it

[@AutoEsoterica]

Excellent comment! So many of these cars never get driven by their owners. And I get it, if you spent $100,000 to perfectly restore your dream '32 roadster or whatever, I can't blame you for being afraid to drive it. The car cost a fortune! I did not want that with my '36. One, I can't afford a 100% flawless restoration like that, and two, I don't want some Fabergé egg for the garage, something that just sits there and looks pretty. I want a car I can drive, enjoy and share with others. - Craig

[@jamesbosworth4191]

6 volts will not keep a car from being used, trying to use skinny 4 gauge battery cables in a 6 volt car is what can keep it from being used.

[@Watchmaker_Gereon-Schloesser]

@@jamesbosworth4191 todays people are too stupid the grasp this tech. Also having an higher Ampère hour battery does "wonders". I hate it also if "they" fit alternators (AC) instead of the dynamos (DC). I want to have my car FREE of semiconductors! No LEDs I hate them too - close to laser tech, as it hurts the eyes in the night. Animals hate them too - to white and brite. My car is a Citroën Dyane of 1967 a luxury 2CV. I have yellow bulbs to have the same time allready fog-lights. It's very friendly to the eyes and holds the animals on the side of the road.

[@jamesbosworth4191]

@@Watchmaker_Gereon-SchloesserSo that's what a Dyane is? Never have seen one. My Grandmother had a 1958 DS 19 that she bought new. What a car! Too bad, though, Citroen couldn't afford to buy another automaker's small V8 or develop the proposed V6. Would have been sensational!

[@Heavygravy447]

As soon as you said glasspacks I subscribed

[@NathanEdwards-r9i]

Nice car. It almost has the same body lines as a first-generation PT cruiser that's my opinion only it looks like to have the similar lines of it from the rear just imagine this being a black PT cruiser with. Real nice car man real nice car😮. Where did you get it and how long did it take you to do a full restoration😮. Happy motoring. I don't know if the business is still there University avenue Minnesota name me the businesses is called (Dearborn Ford) they deal with Fords from 56 and older. You might be able to get wiper parts from them or talk to Derek from vice grip garage. He might go to hook you up for some windshield wiper parts or put you on a path to find some. Anyway nice ride man nice ride

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thanks! I got the car locally back in 2009, and it was a DISASTER, a complete mess. It took about five years of restoration work to get the car drivable. - Craig

[@shakealegstudios]

The PT cruiser was a copy of the 37 ford slantback.

[@jonj687]

Another great video! How do you insure your car? Is it insured as a daily driver? I am building a 32 Ford that will be my daily driver but I am unsure of how to insure it as such.

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! My car is registered as a historic vehicle, and I have appropriate insurance from Hagerty. It will depend on where you live, but if you want to daily drive an old car like this, you'll probably need regular insurance. The historic registration and insurance comes with certain restrictions, though the price is much more affordable. I think I pay about $380 per year for coverage WITH an optional towing package. Good luck with your '32! - Craig

[@stephenlineman]

beautiful car great vid one thing remove plastic oil lines they break you walk or worse

[@gianlucagauci2468]

People especially in america where the law accomodates custom stuff more do so many like street rod type of things w these cars but like something similar from europe would have a 4 cylinder with horsepower not far off a real horse, like a 30s v8 isnt so bad thats all im saying, it could be much worse. Incredible job tho really nice example you have there

[@AutoEsoterica]

Thank you so much! Yes, in the grand scheme of things, the flathead V8 delivers pretty good performance. When the 1936 Ford was new, it was conceivable you might still be driving a Model T, with just about 20 horsepower, or maybe a Model A with 40 horses. From '34 on up, the V8 was rated at 85 hp, more than four times what the T had and double the A. What a massive leap in performance that must have felt like! - Craig

[@Mike-lh1rq]

The biggest concern I would have with running these early cars is the straight steering shaft that goes to the steering box, if the front ever gets hit the steering shaft literally goes directly into the driver's chest and can be fatal.

[@MrChevybaja]

Aint nobody dont love a good CHMSL discussion. :)

[@AutoEsoterica]

The only thing more engaging is PRNDL talk ;P

[@MrChevybaja]

@@AutoEsoterica i always call it my Brenda PRNDL

[@paulhelman2376]

do your turn signals work off a toggle switch or are they self correcting? Either put a buzzer in the circuit to alert you that they are on. That sound proofing adds weight.

[@AutoEsoterica]

There's a turn signal lever, like a modern vehicle. Unlike a car from today, however, the turn signal does not self-cancel. The relay clicks when the signal is engaged, though it's not terribly loud. - Craig

[@simonw2631]

8:19 thats what killed my 66 cadillac 429 engine. All the nylon teeth went into the oil pickup

[@k.kristianjonsson1537]

The modifications are OK. I would call it "Common sense modifications." You can find small additional gauges that have a vintage stile. There are one reason to the change the engine for a smallblock Ford. The side-valve uses a lot of fuel, but if you only make short trips it doesn't matter.

[@Brad-vs1lk]

The stickers on the rear side windows are ridiculously ridiculous! Otherwise the car is 100% perfect! Thankyou!!!!

[@charlesdalton985]

Great improvements for keeping the car on the road in modern times. I read your comment on the mechanical brakes. For me, just my opinion, for an infrequently driven car, they are an advantage as many hydraulic systems don't respond well to storage. Thank you for this, well done and very interesting.

[@195048]

Have you given any thought to putting a Columbia Overdrive rearend in your car?

[@AutoEsoterica]

Yes, I have. The Columbia rear ends are quite pricey, especially if you get one "bulletproofed," as they're known to be quite fragile. I'd LOVE to have overdrive, it would make a huge difference, but I don't know if I'll ever get around to installing one. If I did, I'd consider the Mitchell Overdrive. I hear fantastic things about the product and the company. Thanks for the comment! - Craig