MOST Homes Don't Have This...But Should They?

We are getting SO CLOSE to getting into the next stages of this project Gang! A couple of finishing details IN the walls and then we get to cover it all up!
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[@eastcoastmodz5195]

Ahh Paul, Jordon, and Rad deserve it! Big WIN to Stud Pack! I'm so glad all those items will make your dream house come true!! Enjoy!! ~ Robert from New Hampshire :)

[@mikeinmaryland]

Happy Thanksgiving Robert. This was very nice of you.

[@eastcoastmodz5195]

@@mikeinmaryland Happy Holidays and have a great New Year too :)

[@fkdob2000]

Big win Robert. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃 Robert and @Studpack gang

[@WillLeingang]

Dude you rock!

[@scottmblow]

You ROCK Robert, that was super nice of you.

[@dmitryalekhin9066]

ERV manufacturer actually recommends opposite - pull air from kitchen and toilet and let fresh air flow into living area, otherwise you will be dragging air from kitchen and toilet area into your living room.

[@roldini]

My thoughts exactly. Blow clean air in living room and bedrooms and suck dirty/moisture air from kitchen, laundry and bathrooms

[@medic95417]

I thought they have picked up the exhaust from the bathroom so there would only be 2 holes it the wall, instead of 3 or more,.

[@RCMServices]

Typically for a house this size, the ERV is going to run at about 10 cfm.

[@RCMServices]

It will be an easy fix by just moving the two ducts at the ERV.

[@FullSendPrecision]

Totally agree. I don't want "bathroom air" being circulated into the rest of the house. The ERV/HRV is a great way to always suck "bathroom air" OUT of the house....

[@bobcaygeon975]

Flexduct supposedly has a lifespan of 15-20 yrs. The ribbing also reduces airflow 10-20%. In any area that's hard to access, id stick with 4" rigid duct.

[@PeterPetersNL]

I would have switched inlet and outlet of the air duct. You don't want to suck the cooking air through the whole floor. Better to have the unit suck the dirty air directly from above the stove.

[@babigyrl3560]

exactly

[@johnhaller5851]

That is the real place where there should be a direct exhaust to the outside, with a separate make-up air. There's no point for the shower exhaust fan, that should really go into the ERV exhaust. Otherwise, there is a need for makeup air for the air exhausted through the shower exhaust.

[@PeterPetersNL]

​In our newly built house every bit of air goes through the evr. We gave intake vents in every bathroom, the laundry room and the kitchen. We have exhausts in every living space and bedroom.

[@CMbassin]

Yeah this is set up backwards to logic and the instructions for the unit. Dump fresh air into where you sit and sleep. Suck the bad air from where you S*it and EAT!

[@matteberry58]

I'm glad you replaced the flex 4 inch inside the wall with the duct. I was saying "oh no, no bueno". Good job Paul!

[@narlycharley]

Because there is no horizontal slope before your intake vent, I recommend either installing a timer for the exhaust fan, or making sure that you run it for a few minutes after your shower to help dry out the inside. If you don’t, the moisture will drip down that slope and out of the intake. It would then drip on your facia idea, and cause water damage.

[@GotGracexxxxx]

Doesn’t the built-in damper on the exhaust vent anticipate a level installation? What will happen differently, when it’s installed on a slant?

[@l3of589]

Yep mi friend had the same problem, he ended up putting an horizontal piece of ceiling big enough for the vent.

[@matthewgriffiths527]

I know it must be annoying to hear everyone's opinion on everything...but that long of a run from the exhaust fan to the bathroom is going to decrease the efficiency of the exhaust fan...a lot. Speaking from a clean room certification background.

[@mikesux]

Wish they were into some automation. Recently setup my fan to kick on when the room's sensors hit a certain humidity. Solves for that residual humidity after the shower.

[@pcatful]

Would the fact that the duct is inside the insulated space, at the hottest part of the room, and not cooling, cut down sufficiently on condensation inside the duct to prevent water dripping down?

[@splanzza]

Hey StudPack gang, just a quick tip if it is not too late. Not sure how "quiet" those ERVs are but if I was you would insulate all around it. Especially uncouple ANY fan from wood framing and if I am not mistaking that whole ERV is sitting on zip-sheathing. I live in a small place where my neighbor's ceiling, bathroom and AC fans drive me literally nuts. The vibration is sickening. My pillow vibrates when my neighbor turns his ceiling fan on. My point is, if you have the opportunity and you do now while everything is open and accessible, save your self some quite moments in the future and uncouple those monsters! All the best. 💪👍👊

[@user-zr4ww1ko8j]

Don't know the code for your area, but for our area the duct from bathroom fans has to be rigid duct, not flexible duct. I was told this is provide less conducive surface for mold / mildew to grow on.

[@oldcarpenter2372]

I would not want the ERV to be blowing air into the bathroom and forcing those poop odors across the room.toward the intake above the door. A simple solution is reverse the air flow, to exhaust from the toilet and kithen (the correct install IMO) and then the slot defusier acts as the supply air.

[@davidwright1653]

With silent bathroom exhaust fans available, that long run from the bathroom to the other side of the house is really not a good idea. The long run does lose air flow, especially over time as dust builds up on the walls of the duct. Always best to go shortest path out when it comes to exhaust fans.

[@narlycharley]

Robert, good shit! I’m sure they’ll be thankful for years to come from your generosity.

[@RJ-cc1fz]

When using that black woven strapping on flex duct, it causes the flex duct to become very restrictive over time. I use corrugated 4 inch pipe. Cut it in half on its length. Then cut roughly 12 inch pieces of it and slide it between the strapping and the flex duct. This prevents the strapping from restricting the flex duct. It absolutely gets restricted without doing this. Sometimes all but completely closes off the flex duct. Another thing I noticed. Would have been much better to put the solid pipe in the interior wall so it doesn’t affect insulation on the exterior wall. That would require that interior wall to be 2x6 or 2x4 with the top plate completely cut out and reinforced around the solid pipe. Maybe y’all will think of that for the house build. Really enjoy watching your videos. We can all learn from each other

[@LykeArgy]

i guess they can still fix it by cuting open the pipe and just gluing it inbetween the strap and duct?

[@kylemcweeny878]

I'm gonna go into my attic and do this asap! 😂

[@RJ-cc1fz]

@@LykeArgy they don’t have to cut anything open. They simply can slip the cut pieces of corrugated pipe between the strapping and flex ducts insulation. The 12 inch corrugated pipe will go length wise with the flex duct

[@LykeArgy]

i mean yeah but they have to disconnect it on 1 side for that, idk i feel like its easier to grind a slit in the pipe and bend them over, but yeah anyways it can be done if it's that big of a problem to have straps@@RJ-cc1fz

[@AmbientNoise404]

can that flex duct even be cleaned if necessary ? it would be so easy to use rigid pipe since everything open

[@mastacos]

I have that ERV - love it. They do make some vibration. If you can separate it from where it rests with some rockwool or something to keep the vibration down you will have less noise and vibration directly over the stairwell. Also make sure that it is accessible to change out filters every 3-4 months. Good work guys.

[@davidreed9046]

Would rubber feet help mitigate the vibration and noise?

[@thomasgreenan8617]

Typically, the ERV units are suspended from chain or cable above.

[@pyroman590]

Your ERV should have served as your "silent exhaust fan". This system is routed incorrectly. The idea is to pull stale, humid, dirty air from your bathrooms, laundry, and kitchen and feed fresh air into the rest of the house. The bathroom exhaust fan if not balanced properly will create a negative pressure situation.

[@adrian_sanchez]

Respectfully, I’d prefer the normal bathroom fan to drown out the noise of what’s about to happen. But for the rest of the house, this system is awesome

[@dansullivan2954]

Couldn't agree more.

[@WW-hr1hd]

I agree, even though oftentimes, the sound of the fan only SEEMS like it's drowning out other sounds. While it sounds loud in the bathroom, the drone of the fan sometimes doesn't carry beyond the door as well as the percussion of sudden unmentionable sounds do. 🤭

[@quinnsmith2955]

you just gotta flush at the same time

[@cogspace]

Also hearing the fan provides feedback that it's working.

[@deborahgallagher-vu5hl]

I worked with a girl that called it “the courtesy flush”. As many times as necessary!

[@jameshobbs6092]

Hello guy's! Never would I have imagined commenting on a project you two are doing as they are always top notch! This time though, as an HVAC guy, your placement of some of this equipment has given me pause. ERV'S/HRV'S, air handler's and air purifiers have filters that need to be replaced; and more often in a construction zone, i.e. living in the finished loft while building the main house right next door. Consider reading the user guide for that equipment, question yourself how are you going to reach it? Is there enough room to store extra filters and room to move around while you replace them? Is there a pathway to reach it with lighting? Is there an electrical outlet for servicing and a disconnect? That looks to be a pretty tight crawlspace up there?! Everything needs attention on a regular basis. All the very best! J.

[@matthewgriffiths527]

As a clean room certifier it's very refreshing to hear great advice from an HVAC guy.

[@StudPack]

We’ve got a plan for this.. stay tuned James! 🤝🏼

[@beckycrump8831]

When installing the fan I am surprised they didn't furnish a piece of sound dampening rubber to go between the wood and metal. Every little pit helps.

[@kevinjo2041]

Without a doubt going to get water in the bathroom vent line from condensation.

[@reallunacy]

That green board you removed so the spray foam guys could have more room would have been really useful to back your drywall corner, like a California corner. I personally would toss it back in. I'm loving the build and really appreciate the product showcases as it opened me up to new tools that could solve my problems.

[@kg4gav]

It was originally installed to be a drywall corner backer. I think what they were eluding to is to have it out for the spray foam guys, and the re-install it before the drywall goes up.

[@StudPack]

It’ll go back in once insulation is in

[@reallunacy]

@@StudPack awesome. I just envisioned myself installing it for a great reason then forgetting why I did it and removing it. I'm absolutely loving the build.

[@stephentucker5406]

Put it back BEFORE the foam. The foam will expand to fill the void. And. The will exspand to fill the void so the backer WILL NOT GO BACK IN !

[@M0ssFr0g]

So just a little fun fact from some ventilation (smoke exhaust via firefighting and confined space rescue team) experience: You lose about 30-40% of your flow every 90 degree turn you make in your piping. This effect can be reduced by making longer sweeps where you can. So you want to minimize the amount of sharp turns you do. That 110 cfm drops to 80cfm the second you make a hard 90. Gotta do another one on the other end? Now you're at 50cfm. Less than half of the airflow you wanted from that fan. And with an ERV, you're looking at further reductions due to filters. Just something to keep in mind. 110 should be fine for a normal bathroom, but I worry with those bends you're going to be frustrated when it only gets 50-80cfm. 50-80 cfm is what is usually sized for a small half bath.

[@WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

A Big W goes out ROBERT for the equipment! And also i give a big 👍 to SUPPLY HOUSE as well! Ive got signed on with them as well and have been a help in getting parts a better price than local suppliers. Awesome Job Again Like Always

[@WillLeingang]

You are so blessed to get to spend so much time with your dad. I’m 40 and I’m pretty sure you’ve spent more time with your dad on this garage than I’ve spent with my dad in my whole life. Making memories and learning tons!

[@JD9RX830]

Yes, be very thankful!! My dad was a crazy drunk that I couldn't stand to be around and died when I was 17. I've grew to love DIY in my middle age years but had nobody to turn to for help. KZbin has been my teacher and I love your channel!

[@zachpeterson2135]

Massive W for Robert! What an absolute champion!

[@johnds6621]

I don't think I would have used the soft air supply hose for the fresh air and bathroom venting. It's in my mother''s house and through the years you have to rearrange the suports because the weight of the hose leans into the strap and cuts down on the openings ID.

[@redacted3610]

Hell yeah Robert

[@Duro2G]

Hey, spray foam guy here. 👋 I like the hard line. My thought, though, is why not put the vent line in an interior wall. The exterior wall top doesn't have to get drilled and use 2x6 on the interior framing. I love the continuous insulation idea. Thank you for thinking about insulation way before installation. Many builders neglect small planning on new construction.

[@williambacker6581]

flex duct could collapse under vacuum i would use ridgid until fan also easier to clean ridgid ducts. you don't want to crawl on the ceiling to fix or replace ducts.

[@maggieschannel9899]

You might want to check on the placement of the extract fan. Normally fans need short inlet (suction lines) but they can handle long outlet (discharge) lines. The fan supplier should have this information.

[@Faruk651]

Time to bring in a pro HVAC guy. This is a crucial part of the build and fixing in the future will be a nightmare.

[@dfowler3187]

Some free advice and future considerations 1: Support flex ducts on 36" centers. 2: Don't pressurize a bathroom. Keep it neutral or negative so you don't push the stank out of the restroom into the rest of the structure. Putting that supply in the restroom may come back to haunt you. 3: You could have simply ducted the ERV supply into the HVAC return duct, Tee'd into the exhaust from the restroom grille. Put a backdraft damper at the fan outlet. Saved yourself all the cutting top plates, time, whatever that thing you put in the bathroom wall and the goofy slot diffusers. Any air drawn from the restroom is going to be exhausted anyways. If your ERV was going to run 24/7 you could use the ERV itself as the restroom exhaust. 4: Since vapors look to find equal pressure, meaning the VOC's will go in all directions to fill the space they occupy. Some with enough velocity to go against oncoming airflow. It is not necessary to have cross ventilation as it will not do what you think it will do. 5: Pookie the inside of the flex and get yourself a panduit gun, or as NASA calls it a "nylon tie wrap tensioner with manual cutoff". Any UL181 foil tape is sufficient to tape down flex jacketing. And frankly it would be better and easier than the foil backed butyl tape you used. For future ductwork a mastic will do you better than tape at sealing. 6: Any device that has a rotating assembly should have some vibration isolation. Be it rubber gromets, rubber isolation pads or spring isolators. Hope you put that fan in a place you don't mind an access door or is accessible by other means. 7: Don't put dampers at the air device. If you want quieter register, grilles, etc. Because the velocity of the air increases at the dampers when they are closed, so the noise increases. Put the dampers further back at the tap or branch. I guess good thing is the way you installed all that. You could simply reverse the flexes at the ERV to fix some possible future problems. Good Luck.

[@mikez4132]

There is a lot of good info here. Thank you.

[@comp20B]

Great advice. Saving this.

[@alaneaston1447]

Actually that's good advice regarding the bathroom smells lol. You don't want you poo stench being pulled through the rest of the house

[@Nonsense62365]

They’re not installing an HVAC system or a furnace in the garage. It’s overkill! There’s an episode with the brief installation of 2 zones with copper line sets covered with insulation and foil with a control Cable/power cable. It provides power the head units! and they pre-installed a quasi adapter where the line sets connect too. After the drywall is installed, the head unit or cassette will fit over the black plastic adapter. I don’t know who the manufacturer is. They haven’t provided us with that information. they’ll be producing a video when the head units/cassettes are installed also showing where the exterior two zone condenser heat pump is installed. I also don’t believe these are DIY units because I’m only aware of one company Mr Cool makes a DIY mini split system with pre-charged line sets. I’ve seen Numerous commercials and installation videos on KZbin Fujitsu/Daikin etc has a special mini split cassette system that fits into an attic space and all you see is the slim rectangular metal duct portion poking through the ceiling. It’s more of a commercial application. but now it’s made its way to the residential marketplace. Yes, something about this technology. I’ve done extensive research! I was considering a ductless mini system for my house, but it will cost triple the price of buying a furnace and installing the ducting the return, the duct Plenum, ducts evaporator cooler and exterior condenser.

[@mikez4132]

@@Nonsense62365 i bought a two head heat pump/ac system for my addition. One head in the office and one in the living space. System was 2800 online and about 600 to have the line-set hooked up and leak tested / initial start up. Keeps the warranty that way. I installed everything else with elec inspections and what not. Great system great performance. Cooper Hunter on mine.

[@survivaloptions4999]

I'd think you would want to pull the interior stale air from the side of the building where all the humidity and smells are coming from rather than pulling them across the living space, no? Edited to add: Not to mention you are gong to blow your fresh air right back out the bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans?

[@benoithudson7235]

That's what I'm used to with HRV systems. Air goes in to the bedrooms, out from the bathroom and kitchen.

[@brassmule]

22:32: Thanks for leaving this in the video. I'm sure y'all get on each other's nerves sometimes, but the occasional moments of genuine father/son hemming and hawing are always fun to watch. Thanks guys!

[@dflenn9423]

Paul, having done electrical work for decades I'd like to offer a tip on cutting Ty-Wraps, aka cable ties. If you turn your cutter pliers and blades 90 degrees to the Ty-Wrap when you cut it it will naturally round over the edges and eliminate the razor blade edge typically left when you cut them. I know I can't be the only one to receive a nice cut on my forearm from a cable tie. This little trick served me well for years. Love the build so far!

[@rogermccaslin5963]

The bane of my existence. As a boat builder/repairer, we use hundreds of ties on the wiring harnesses and whatnot. There are often places that are nearly inaccessible that you need to pass the harness through. Nothing like shoving your arm down a hole holding on to the harness end and then pulling it back and hitting a tie or two that slice you open. I got my guys flush cutters just for that reason. It's amazing how that little piece of relatively soft plastic can turn into a WMD because somebody nipped off the tail.

[@BMWliterbikes4life]

@@rogermccaslin5963 Totally agree with you, what we do is use lineman pliers or what we call Klein’s and grab the tie tail at the buckle and twist it until it breaks off. It totally dulls the edge and leaves it blunt. Be sure to use a lot of hand pressure on the pliers so that it breaks off quickly. Just keep twisting it one direction until it breaks.

[@Can_non69]

Noice! I love zipties but hate the cuts

[@r2db]

I just use the dedicated tensioning/ cutting tool. It has one handle to tighten it and then the second handle cuts the excess.

[@dflenn9423]

I was offering a simple and cheap alternative to my $350.00 dollar Panduit Ty-Wrap tool.@@r2db

[@bradfeatherstone1775]

Always put down Geotextile before you put down the gravel. Geotextile does 2 things: A) seperates the soil from the gravel permanently, and 2) Spreads the load across a greater area. This means that you will not get mud jacked into the gravel, and you can use less gravel for the same traffic. It also turns out to be cheaper to accomplish the same goal both initially, and over the life of the roadbed. Cheers!

[@Ran-dom1]

Pointless if they end up paving it. concreting it etc. The compaction will end up becoming bone dry after the pavement or concrete is put ontop it won't care about a lil mud coming through as long as it's a solid base.. Just another expense which has almost no purpose.

[@nicolaspaglia3760]

​@@Ran-dom1agreed. Nothing more than a cost driver. Juice not worth the squeeze

[@Ran-dom1]

@@nicolaspaglia3760 I mean TO BE FAIR... it'd make sense if it was forever gravel, cuz then the gravel would last years instead of months. It's a house tho with a family so it'll have a paved or concreted driveway 100%

[@nicolaspaglia3760]

​@@Ran-dom1forsure. I mean specifically to this application ^. If it's staying agg only you forsure want textile just for weeds alone lol.

[@denisegaylord382]

I hadn't thought about that. I am going to look into that when I get my gravel driveway redone. I have about 100 feet of straight run, and a parking area connected to it for a couple of cars. I assume the geo textile is water permeable? Water will drain but keep the rocks separated from the soil?

[@The_R_Vid]

I found your channel last week, and binged this whole project from start to now. Great work so far, despite all the challenges you had at the start! It's fascinating to me to see the differences in building details and systems where you are compared to my local area (5000 heating degree days, Celsius..i.e. very cold winters). It's so hard to wait for future updates now, I'm totally digging this build.

[@audiobuff2]

Regarding the vent/fan directly over the shower: I heard that placement can cause condensation in the vent lines If the air is too humid; it condenses inside the vent pipe and possibly pools in a spot.

[@noneya61]

You get just as much humid air regardless where in the bathroom it gets placed. It’s a bathroom….

[@markstipulkoski1389]

They are going to have the underside of their roof deck spray foamed. So all that ductwork will be in conditioned space, not in a cold unconditioned attic. So condensation is unlikely as long as they turn on the vent before they start creating steam. The flexible conduit probably could have been uninsulated.

[@billvandorn5332]

I've also seen the fans build up on premature rust because of the condensation. It would be interesting to see that other fan kick in to solve this problem.

[@jameslastname9171]

I have a feeling they are going to run a humidity sensor to operate the fan

[@ncooty]

​@@markstipulkoski1389 They're in Houston, where "conditioned" = cold.

[@Verilis]

Thank you, Robert!

[@degrom542]

What we usually do when we run a duct between two studs is place 1'' rigid foam board behind the duct . Spray foam guy's appreciate it .Here in the North East we call those supply registers " lineals " they look great in a tray ceiling if layed out correctly .

[@derfskittlers6125]

Im usually not a nay sayer but do you see anything wrong with moisture getting trapped because that duct goes up then down?

[@sgwsteve1665]

Guys, my kids and wife bought me a stud pack shirt for my birthday and I freaking LOVE IT. You got a great channel keep up the good work

[@billvandorn5332]

I grew up either with opening Windows or having those sucky bathroom fans like you did. I can't tell you for how many times I thought if only, if only they made a stronger fan away from the bathroom. Fast forward to the present and we have some positive examples. I didn't catch the power required and I'll have to play it back again to see if you mentioned it❤

[@mulliganman33]

I'm curious why you are venting the bathroom all the way to the other side of the building. Why not just vent it directly above the bathroom?

[@Jiangster]

I was wondering this as well

[@Fnaflover567]

I’m wondering if this is going to be part of controlling the booster? Guess we’ll have to wait for that video

[@PhillBogart]

Great job as always, Paul, but is there a reason why you and Jordan didn't just run the bathroom fan and vent through the roof right above it as opposed to the looooong duct to the fan all the way across the upstairs that you went with?

[@mcgeorgerl]

Yeah.... that's buggin' me. The shorter the run for that flex hose, the higher efficiency for the air movement. It's also less expensive and maintenance (Rips/tears) to the flex.

[@taxi317]

My thought too.

[@StudPack]

We love the idea of a "silent" exhaust fan. Just a cool idea and we thought we'd implement it. Some people might not care for it, but we think it's cool. The length of the duct doesn't matter here, fantech spec'd this thing for this specific application and it is more than enough even with the percentage loss of the flex.

[@Mines619]

But even a small separation would probably make a big difference in the sound and vibration. Just like the quiet cool whole house fans. Makes more sense to run it on the same side as the bathroom. Also I agree with others that the ERV fresh air and return setup is backwards

[@mcgeorgerl]

@@StudPack I assumed that the manufacturer speced out the parts given your design and that the system will "work", but it cannot be as efficient as a shorter run with smooth sided inlet/discharge ducting. I've worked with industrial fluid power for a long time (And air is considered a 'fluid') so I'm not a stranger to this. Also, the faster that you can get the moisture laden air out of the dwelling, the better as it gives less time for the moisture to "drop out" even in an insulated line. As far as the dB of the fan, I get your preference for a quiet fan. Your house; your rules. However, if my wife had anything to do with it, she'd over-rule you and opt for a fan that will aid in masking embarrassing noises. I concur. And, if you have kids or distracted adults, a timer is a boon to keep the fan running longer than necessary either for odor evacuation or moisture evacuation. A "noisy" fan is a reminder that the system is sucking your heated or conditioned air outside at a CFM that the system is capable of moving. Even a small, inexpensive Home Depot fan (Hampton Bay) moves 80 CFM and, since the cubic feet of airspace in your bathroom is larger than many bathrooms, I'll assume that your speced fan moves considerably more CFM.

[@tamberine]

Robert is the man!!!!!! It’s a full time job to be a designer! Also if you need to move the duct to line up with the cab, why not just cut the sheet rock and patch back? I know perfect is best! Awesome build!

[@Live4Pin]

Have enjoyed watching this whole build so far! I have to say after seeing how consistently high quality the build has been, I was surprised to see all the flex ducting. Those are some long runs for flex duct. Especially the bathroom vent.

[@LiveInOC]

What happens when that exhaust fan fills up with lint, is there a way to clean it

[@hu5tle-]

Common to do flex duct at the end of runs to minimize any duct noise at the vent. Make sure your exterior supply and returns are at the appropriate distance apart so you aren't pumping the stale air outside, but then right back into your supply line.

[@Recovering_Californian]

Bathroom fan & ductwork issue: Moist air is going through there (obviously) and will collect on the inside of the duct and fan. With it mounted at an angle I suspect water would drip back down the duct and out the vent. Maybe this isn't an issue?

[@Garth2011]

Those older cheap exhaust fans never did perform worth a hoot. They used a typical tiny fan blade and a high rpm motor that made more noise than it moved any air, let alone steam. But what they did do was to satisfy the building code even though they were considered worthless. These inline fans use a squirrel cage design and move air way better and are super quiet. My only concern with where they are mounted is how to service them when they have an issue.

[@8eSix]

I really love the way you guys think. There's a lot of people (on KZbin or otherwise) that will do things so traditional and by the book. The problem with many who've learned from working in the industry, is that they tend to repeat the ways others will cut corners to get it done. You guys do what makes sense to mitigate issues down the road even if it requires a little more work. You have the creativity to achieve what you want by asking "how can we do it?" instead of saying "it can't be done". Keep it up! 👍 You're setting a great example.

[@r7boatguy]

The difference is, they do all the trades. Singular tradespeople don't really care about who comes next, because they are long gone.

[@connorhynes2207]

Fun to watch. My dad has been building a 36x60 pull barn with 36x40 garage space 36x20 fun room and a full 36x60 apartment up top with a 36x30 loft over top the bedrooms. Has been a fun process. I help him on the weekends as it’s a 3 hour drive. Doing almost all the interior with really high end wood that we repurposed from some really nice lake houses

[@Faruk651]

Those are some really long runs for a 4" flex duct. I don't know why people hook up their bathroom fans to hrv or erv unit. Just use a dedicated bathroom fan with timer. Let the hrv run 24/7 in slow mode pulling stale air from bedrooms. Vent the bathrooms in shortest route to an exterior wall.

[@rogermccaslin5963]

Wow, you guys finally put some gravel in that driveway. I mentioned that in a comment (as I'm sure many others did) early on. I think that is one of those things that you'll look back on and think "Why didn't we do that sooner?" Those slot type registers look great when the walls are finished.

[@CinemaSasquatch]

I used my 20V DeWalt Impact Driver to pound that Like button. Another good job, guys.

[@digi3218]

I threw a flexvolt battery at my like button

[@funtimesusa6199]

I actually have the same ERV system in my house, but I still invested in the SRX system cause it works better and lowered my electric bill. Stud pack, if you are interested in what I am talking about, just comment back so we can talk. Also, I absolutely love the videos. Awesome awesome for sure

[@RJ-cc1fz]

I’m interested. What the difference between erv and srx?

[@funtimesusa6199]

@@RJ-cc1fzERV is nice to have, but pollutants still build up in the duct work. The SRX makes all pollutants 100% get into contact with water so it’s all trapped and guaranteed to be disposed of down the drain. That’s just 1 difference

[@funtimesusa6199]

@@RJ-cc1fzI would highly suggest to have both though

[@funtimesusa6199]

@@RJ-cc1fzalso keep in mind that the SRX system filter is water, while the ERV is not, which means that it only traps less that half the amount of dust, so the SRX is more than twice as efficient for that 1 fact. Water will always work better

[@MaestroPrep]

I agree with folks below.. Get that wet steamy and fart vapor air outside ASAP! Especially with that Texas humidity, it will sweat that exhaust and you will have moisture in that 4 in vent hose! that liquid will drain... "somewhere"! Those duct runs are rather far to cool, heat or condensate the air/Humidity......

[@jimharmon3404]

I love your attention to detail. How will Jordan get access to replace that exhaust fan when it fails in 20 or so years? The same goes for the air exchanger except it has a filter that will require periodic replacement. Will we have to wait for the drywall episode?

[@AaronBirkeness]

This was my first thought too. That Bath fan WILL fail some day. I imagine they've considered it but I'd like to know the plan.

[@mwolrich]

@@AaronBirkenessthey’llneed to install a ceiling access panel.. but they should just elliminate that fan, and use an ERV input on a sealed house

[@AaronBirkeness]

@officialStudpack_ scam! Scam! Scam!

[@woodbutchercustoms]

Your bathroom fresh air vent is going to be right in the baseboard. Should move it up so your vent and baseboard don't clash.

[@MikeHarris1984]

Usually before the Y in the duct, you want to run a bigger duct to the Y then two smaller ones out. Like a 4"to the bath and a 8" to the kitchen 1 And a 6" to kitchen 2 vents. This way you don't drop pressure. I see some issues with the duct layouts. Hopefully it's just the camera... But I think your sizes and runs are a bit off. You're not going to have good performing IMO.... I would say have a HVAC tech come in and double check it...

[@calvissuperman]

I know you guys don't do HVAC jobs that often, and I'm sure you're always getting helpful comments about how people do things but here's just a couple helpful hints working with Flex duct: 1. Per manufacturer specs, you are SUPPOSED to stretch the flex duct out all the way and let it lay out fully stretched for a certain time before installation to prevent it collapsing in on itself. In my experience, nobody does this though xD 2. I love creating a great seal between the inner duct core and the connection point with tape, but I highly recommend FSK tape. It has fibers through it in a cross hatch pattern, making it super flexible and strong for those curved joints on flex installations. It can be more forgiving than the tape you use, which can be a pain to work with. 3. The zip tie around the inner core is important, but as an extra bulletproof method of attachment, we always put a 1/2" zip screw through the inner core right on the wire and zip tie. This prevents either the tie or core from sliding off if the tape or tie loosen over time. You've been in attics a lot, I'm sure you've accidentally kicked off a supply before! They get super brittle after years in the dry dusty attics. 4. The outer liner of the flex duct is super important, and should always be connected with tape to the connection. This liner is a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from moving around, so making sure it has a perfect seal on both sides is super important. We always tape any holes we accidentally make while pulling flex. Again, that FSK tape is a lifesaver for working with flexible duct. 5. Zip ties have a tightener device that should be used, they are specifically designed to be able to tighten these ties to spec and have an integrated cutting device to prevent sharp burs. Love the videos so much, and love you guys! Hope these tricks will be useful for you guys in the future, I'm sure you already knew about most of them. I know you guys are always looking for the right way to do things which is what makes watching these videos so entertaining. In the world of HVAC I feel like there's a LOT of opinions on how things should be done, as the codes and regulations are much less strict than electrical or plumbing. It's very easy to throw up duct and have it pass inspection, but be designed completely wrong. In my short experience, most homes are thrown together quite haphazardly and cause a lot of comfort issues. I'm sure you have a good plan for the house, but I can't stress enough on doing your research and getting someone with education to help you with your system. Home comfort in a large house will be vastly different than a regular sized family home, so get someone who runs real numbers, not an eyeballer! Just a friendly warning, not trying to tell you what to do! I've been back and forth with new home customers trying to fix their comfort in their brand new house because the company that installed it threw it together. I can't wait to see how this turns out, and see what you guys can create! I'm always jealous when I see how well your installs line up, it just feels like you always get the measurements perfect. Fully remodeling my first purchased home right now, and just putting in new subfloor is kicking my BUTT! Thanks for the constant positive vibes and encouragement. -Calvin from Minnesota

[@StudPack]

super appreciate all that Calvin!! really good info 💪👍👊

[@markw365]

I have an automation where the average humidity of the house is measured, and if the bathroom humidity rises more than 8% home assistant will turn on the bathroom fan. Works great, and fan comes on in under a minute of turning on the shower. The temperature and humidity sensors are tiny and I have a few of them around the house for "zones".

[@RossReedstrom]

Aqara bluetooth temp/humidity sensors? If so, we're twins!

[@r2db]

What temp/ humidity sensor do you use? Home Assistant is definitely the way to go if one values one's data, and the comments in the video about not wanting to give personal data for quotes on products seem to indicate this should be the default choice here.

[@mikelittle5839]

the bathroom fan will break your blower test, needs to go through your ERV also uk standard is to pull stale air from kitchen and bathrooms with fresh air into living and bedroom areas. as allways a great show

[@zxborg9681]

Like how your shower duct has a nice peak/arch in it. Might not be such a big deal in Texas, but up in Canada you get winter condensation and you want the condensate water to drain back outside, not into the bathroom.

[@N_A_RLW]

I hope You, Crew, and Family's had a wonderful Thanksgiving🦃

[@rbiamby]

"W" for Robert!!!

[@andrewcarr2431]

it is code in our district, makes a huge difference to the air quality in the home based in a 4 season climate. Used to have condensation in the winter before I fitted one in our old home.

[@zenrook1]

When you finish the apartment, please run an acoustics test. I would like to see that all of the vents and intake are less than 45dBA from 3 ft away. And the duct doesn’t sound like running water when the ERV is running.

[@keeganlapierre3227]

Can’t wait to see what you have planned for the rest of the HVAC 🤙🏻 not sure if you’ve seen the new indoor units that Mitsubishi has that can be flush mounted to 16 on center ceiling joists. Might be a good idea for the garage to save wall space for cabinets, shelves, tool racks, etc.

[@user-de8mp8hk8g]

I was searching for how to install a bathroom fan when I came across your channel for the first time, been watching now regularly for years.

[@MikeHarris1984]

My Klein 12/2 \14/2 wire strippers that the blade is the shape of the wire you just cut and pull and the sleev comes off with no wire knicks. Love them!!! Doing a lot of electrical, they will save you time and bloody hands!!!!

[@RazorEye]

Awesome Robert, you are a champ!

[@lisaa.powell3634]

😂 'How many times your gonna check that?' I just love watching you guys. I've learned so much. Stay safe guys...I'm addicted!

[@jameslockhart2371]

Great channel -- lots of information presented in an entertaining fashion. As you likely know, the CFM throughput of the exhaust fan system will decrease as the input (and output) ducts get longer. You might want to check with the fan manufacturer as to whether you will get enough flow rate with your duct lengths.

[@icodeit]

W for Robert!

[@jarrodabel4529]

I'm concerned the flex dust will collapse / kink on the hanging straps due to lack of support through the truss bays. It should be supported every 48 inches, more if the duct sags over 1/2 inch. Also, minimize turns and make them as gradual as possible. That will insure maximum air flow and less noise.

[@chrisosti]

Gentlemen...How wonderful to see those beautiful black and yellow colors on your jobsite!!! Not sure how many people know, but that darn RED color you see so often, is a Chinese conglomerate, and in these crazy times we are in, it's so important to always support this great country we live in, so our children, and their children will be able to still call the USA, the GREATEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD! As a side note, I see you're still fighting the never-ending mudpuddle. You should know better than to just throw gravel into the mud without using a geotextile. All you're doing is making mudcrete. Again, I still say you should have raised the finished floor elevation at least a foot...Time will tell. Keep up the great work guys!

[@Candisa]

lol, stuck in the 80s much? If you want innovation and efficiency at a cost, buy European If you want innovation and reliability at a cost, buy Japanese If you want an efficient but unreliable rip-off at low cost, buy Chinese If you want hopelessly outdated, inefficient, unreliable crap filled with Chinese parts at a close to European cost, buy 'MURICAN Greatest country in the world my ass, it's barely the greatest country on the continent anymore.

[@BlackHatShananigans]

I renovated my kitchen with Ikea kitchen cabinets and I love them. Ikea gets flack for the doors and face plates not being durable but I haven't had issues yet. Also if you look, there are suppliers that will provide quality doors and face plates that fit the Ikea standard boxes, so changing the look or upgrading would be easy. The rail mounting system is easy to work with and the upper cabinet boxes are a European standard, meaning they are deeper than standard American cabinets'. Another thing I love. just be sure to get a bump out kit for any over the range microwave if you're going to put one .

[@rickbarber6758]

Flex duct really reduces the cfm I would run hard pipe and insulate it. Do it right, once the drywall is up it's too late.

[@jasonj6568]

Can you add a humidity sensor inside that duct? Feel like it’s a long run and potential for it to want to run back down to the shower if there is enough steam and it gets switched off before it can dry itself out. Speaking as a parent of a teen who uses 100gals for each shower. We leave it on extra time for that reason. Awesome product and never thought of for a fart fan and am more used to the remote located fan for hood vents so you can talk in the kitchen. This unit you have is awesome, be nice to locate to an easy access area like a indoor coil in an attic (I know you’re going ductless mini split it looks like but might work for the house build)

[@Saki630]

lol they are pissed that they need to redo this whole system because the airflow direction might not be the best, but more so the negative pressure created in the bathroom might be a problem too considering its going to be a 110cfm fan going out and less than half that going in. Any fresh air is going to be sucked out and not even make it to the kitchen.

[@khaldaeras7038]

W for Robert! Loving the build series and collaborations with other channels!

[@SeattleLSB]

Belmont Cabinets makes some modern cabinets for a fair price!

[@theroman1009]

Thanks Rob.

[@L8terdays]

I've done rock delivery and that driver could have spread the rock for you. It saves a ton of work. I always spread the rock when I know what you ordered it for.

[@billyhaddock5540]

Great Job guy's on getting the gravel for ur driveway. duct work looks great..

[@wendyfredrickson6703]

Where are you thinking you will purchase your kitchen cabinets? What color or wood stain color are you thinking of going with?

[@shawnupdegraff8138]

Hey Stud Pack! Videos are so awesome and look forward to new ones each time they come out! Just wanted to say I think the Texas sun may be getting to Paul! Noticed those skin spots near his temple. Most time they are hidden by glasses and hat but please take care of yourselves and maybe consider getting those checked out. Better to make sure they are nothing than to let them go until they definitely are something. Not trying to be a Karen just concerned for my Stud Pack Professional, Professor Paul! I hope they are nothing but please consider a checkup!

[@TheMixmastamike1000]

Robert is the freakin man!

[@LifeOfMohammed]

The start of the video is amazing I love the floor shot hahahaha keep up these amazing edits and videos!

[@KyleCunningham-jk9bq]

Great videos! I live in MN and have ERV experience in my home (avoiding window frost). A few comments: 1) plan for maintenance access, there is a schedule for cleaning filter and exchange element, 2) my ERV has a condensate drain hose, 3) my ERV has a damper that closes and seals off outside air when unit idle, that had a bummer bushing that allowed mechanism to disconnect & fail closed, I had to repair with new bushing & hot glue cap to get to work properly, 4) fan motor failed after 20 years (no lube bearing seized), cost of new unit and tight space to swap (new ERVs had different intake/outlet geometry) motivated me to disassemble and buy a replacement motor from a supply house in Chicago. Finished internal electrical to motor with the new in-line WAGO connectors so it stuffed neatly back inside ERV. Keep up the great content!

[@r7boatguy]

Does it work well to mitigate window frost? I need something in my 2nd floor to help with that.

[@TheSaw410]

Robert with the tool hook-up! Awesome!

[@jr303official]

I personally think they should have ran ridged ducking and put a sleeve over it.

[@delekham1863]

I am not a "Fan" of your fan scenario. Most HVAC would concur. You will have moisture draining back into the bathroom. IF I am wrong please let me know. I have done HRV's and this scenario literally makes no sense. Using a "ribbed Insulated" flex hose ..where will water collect? In the "ribs". Going at a 45 degree pull?? What annoys me is that Paul has continually told us that water needs 1/4" slope downwards for every foot it travels. This system is going UP for what 5 Feet? Then going down. In the best case scenario (OMG a 5 foot rise for a 3 to 4 foot run??) You will be redoing the bathroom. Within 5 years, because of Mold. Trying to be nice here and I am FAILING!! 😥😥

[@johnhaller5851]

They should have ditched the exhaust fan, and connected the bath exhaust into the ERV. The fresh air should go into the bedroom and other occupied areas. For any exhaust fan in a well sealed house, they need make-up air, and I haven't heard and discussion of makeup air. The kitchen exhaust really should have make-up air.

[@HiTwinky69]

Boys thats alot of area for a 4" round duct might wanna call someome to see what they say. I know the ventilator can run constantly but doubt itd maintain temperature! Always good work though

[@hanko5750]

Supply House is my GOTO with "This Old House" remodel !! Crazy good of Robert!!!! My DeWalt tools are earning their keep around here. Way to go Robert!! 👍👍 I was installing air/heat exchanges back in the 90s when I was building houses ... tight houses, ya gotta have that for sure!! The HVAC guy ducted it into the ductwork for the house, one end at the intake of the furnace the other in the main trunk line. For that screw in the 4" duct/elbow in the bathroom put a faucet washer on the screw so you don't have a kink in the duct

[@mikeinmaryland]

I’m surprised Paul didn’t pull out a tensioning tool out of his bag of tricks, for those duct (zip) ties.

[@sandysanders4199]

Loved the banter and laughs in this video! Seems like a little less stressful right now, glad some of the hard parts are behind you guys! ❤️❤️

[@123mjolie]

Thanks Robert for helping the Stud Pack !! Because they help US !!

[@johnte1986]

You need to add cat 6 cables for the tv and home entertainment

[@freddie966woo]

Its long travel plus up and down for the bathroom duct. Will the fan have any difficulty to suck out humid air with this setup?