Motion Sensor Prop Trigger Hack

Scare Hollow Productions
The Hollow Vista Cemetery
Gresham, OR
ScareHollowPDX
www.scarehollow.wix.com/html_home
www.nwhaunters.com
www.nwterrortours.com
/ scarehollow

[@user-rt1sp4gi6y]

The “dummy” AA battery adapter you talked about can b used with C or D just wrap tape or thin foam around it to make it size of a C or D battery.

[@topgolf7215]

Are these same as the 1byone alarms.

[@fifthdimension326]

I would put the receiver inside the large skull and run the led's in the eye sockets so they flash when triggered. Great Video, thanks!!! I have got to try this out, so excited!!!!

[@ScareHollow]

Good idea!

[@HauntedTents]

the channel number is on a sticker either on the box or the sensor/ transmitter. if all else fails check inside the box and or any of the paper work. sticker may have come off the sensor/ transmitter during shipping ,, have had several like that

[@ScareHollow]

i looked all over the box and transmitters but i didn't look inside the battery compartment or the case but it would be hard to get to that in the store to not buy all the same channel... sucks that the sticker isn't right on there, hopefully it did just come off

[@OakLaneCemetery]

I tried this with a motion detector from a flood light. It worked, but I wasn't real happy with HOW it worked. if that makes any sense. It was just too fidgety to set up to target a specific area, even with tape blinding part of it. Have not tried one of these yet.

[@terrinater]

Very cool idea! im not understanding where you attached the receiver to your speaker. My first thought was that you replaced the power source, but after trying this myself, the speaker leads don't carry enough voltage to power it. Did you only replace the trigger for your speaker? I have a toy you have to jiggle to activate. Should I cut out that sensor and attach the speaker leads? Does my toy still use its original power source?

[@ScareHollow]

the toy will still need it's power source. this method only has the power output to trigger the TRY me switches on halloween props. I don't know the toy you wnat to use but i have feeling this won't provide enough power.

[@apachehalloween]

I’ve made quite a few of these, but as of recent, I’ve been concerned with if the receiver is input an access amount of voltage into the prop. Have you had any problems with the prop?

[@Matt-wj1il]

I have a battery operated strobe light I want to activate with this same motion sensor. Can I just put the c batteries in this device then use that speaker wire from the disconnected speaker and run out to the battery terminals inside the Led strobe?

[@outdrs10]

Most "try me" buttons will also turn off the prop. I assume this would still do that if someone tripped the sensor shortly after the first trip? I would also assume the "footpad" input doesn't respond the same way.

[@ScareHollow]

this acts as just a trigger so it just turns it on. if tripped again it does nothing until the full animation is stopped

[@jeanie68]

Is it possible if by any strange chance my neighbors have this their base station could be alerted by my sensor? I was a little confused on what you was saying about differs sensor setting off different base stations Thank you

[@ScareHollow]

they used to make them with different frequencies but now they are all the same... so yes technically it could set theirs off.

[@BastardKitty]

Quick question: just got home with same sensor alarm you have (from harbor freight). The wires to alarm are both black and not red/white. Will it matter how I connect it to the step pad? Thank you!

[@ScareHollow]

so i found that too and the one going to the back of the speaker is the 'red" and the one to the rim is the "black" but trial and error before soldering or taping is the best

[@BastardKitty]

Forgot to reply to this last year! Thank you. I did about three of these last year and they worked great. Did a battery version too. I came back to watch your video again as a refresher :)

[@candybrandon7958]

This worked great on some of my footpad activated props, but not all. Nor does it work on the cheaper Home Depot props which have a "Try Me" button. I assume this is because the Harbor Freight PIR device sends a small amperage through the footpad cable and the Try-me and some other props need a powerless "On/Off" connection. Any ideas on if and how the PIR can activate these types of props?

[@oscrfsh]

I have this issue. I can not seem to get it to turn anything on u fortunately with my try me button wires. I also do not have the footpad switch option

[@bignikfishing278]

Trying to figure this out also. They only worl if you hit them.

[@oscrfsh]

@@bignikfishing278 yea...seems as tho they arent motion sensing in the fact they see motion...but they feel motion

[@ScareHollow]

it is hit and miss on what i works with. i've found it does work for the spirit props but yeah i think the home depot props need more amps to trigger them

[@jc2367]

@@ScareHollow couldnt get it to work with my Lowes prop but it does work with my spirit Halloween props

[@HauntedTents]

as to the batteries.. put fresh batteries in mine at the start of the season, after 8 days at 5 hours a day i never had to change batteries

[@ScareHollow]

mine has a wall wart input for the base but yeah the 9volt will go out by halloween

[@nathawic]

Is there a delay so it doesn't restart when triggered again by another person in the group?

[@ScareHollow]

It will run as long as the prop runs, so for mine it operates the swinging girl prop and that has a run time of like 2 minutes so it won't just keep running after that. but it all depends on what it's running. if its a quick effect, then yes it will run every time it's tripped. You'd have to add a delay if you wanted to.

[@JOHNJ0HN9111]

who knew Troy could fly lol... i have tons of those step pads from dumpster diving lol

[@ScareHollow]

i have a giant pack of them from a dumpster from this year i mainly got them for the cords!!

[@thetruthserum2816]

I tried to use one of these sensors for a Raspberry Pi alarm system... I attempted to "take the output" from the piezo leads, however, this appears to be an AC signal to run a passive piezo buzzer, so that didn't work. Then, I probed the circuit with an oscilloscope, and here is what I found... The board voltage is +4VDC. There is an 8 pin IC on the main board; Pin 6 of this IC stays high at +4V until the sensor is detected, then it goes low to .5V , 3 times over 3 seconds. Since I was using an Arduino, I could read a low pulse as True in code... It turned out that the signal was incongruent enough to where I also needed to use a transistor to switch on and off the signal to the Arduino. The actual ideal solution is to setup an inverted Schmitt trigger using an OP Amp or transistors, such that you can turn the transistor on when the voltage drops below .5V, and turn it off when it returns above 3V. Then for the device you want to trigger, you will want to find out if it triggers when shorted to ground, or when shorted to power... That will tell you how to switch it... Use a Schmitt Trigger calculator and you can set the input to 4V, top cut to 3V, low cut to 1.5V, and Output to 1V. Then take the output of the Schmitt trigger to run into a transistor to switch either a voltage, or ground to your desired unit.

[@thetruthserum2816]

Another solution would be to use a Raspberry Pi, with a PIR sensor. Then you could also control it with WiFi, have it log a timestamp of all the triggers, take a snapshot or video, play a WAV file from the SD card, play a video, and use trigger pins to control all kinds of other devices. If you need higher power, then add relays. Then you could even add randomness to the trigger events, or have them synchronized one after another... I'd use Python and Raspberry Pi to automate it...

[@thetruthserum2816]

Upon further reading, one may be able to use the "Pulse In" function to read the low pulse durations. duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH); So, there is a chance the RPi can read the Voltage without an external transistor. I also did not explore AD conversion pins...

[@TriangleHaunter]

In all honesty you should be able to attach it to the manequin or the swing without it changing the weight. Those alarm boxes aren't that heavy. This way you could hide the cords better.

[@ScareHollow]

true and i will try it before i go with the wall idea. i want to attach it all to the swing but i'll still have the damn power cord.. but that i can route through the ropes maybe so it goes up to the roof instead

[@ScareHollow]

i was more worried about attaching it to the actual swing base like an unbalanced tire, so yeah attaching it to the doll might be the easiest

[@sewershits]

Dr Halloween likes : D

[@Jolsen002]

Umm umm ummm LoL

[@ScareHollow]

yeah no script so i free wheel it. i shoot to post not the edit like the other troy. i want to edit very little hehe