How to NOT BURN your Clutch

This video has 1 main tip to prevent you from burning your motorcycle clutch when you are learning new riding skills
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On Moto Control channel you will find videos about motorcycles, motorcycle riding techniques, tips & tricks and online motorcycle training for beginner and advanced riders!
A little info about me. My name is Andrei Bodrov, originally I'm from Moscow, Russia, and now I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Back in Moscow I was a motorcycle instructor and creator of Moto Control Beginner & Advanced motorcycle rider courses, which quickly became the most popular courses in Moscow (well, at least the advanced one😁). My advanced training course makes emphasis on slow speed riding techniques at first (such as good clutch and throttle control, proper riding posture, proper use of vision, etc.), then proceeds to more advanced techniques (such as aggressive braking, trail braking, maximal lean angle). The course incorporates a lot of exercises from DOSAF slow speed riding (similar to police rodeo like motorcycle training in USA), braking and cornering exercises and motogymkhana style riding. And now, since I actively learn English - I decided to post some useful videos for both your and mine practice!😉
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Since everyone writes this, it's necessary, I suppose 🤷, so here we go. Disclaimer: Ride at your own risk, you are responsible for your own safety. Me, Andrey Bodrov and my channel, Moto Control disclaim any liability incurred in connection with the use of riding techniques from this channel. Use common sense, wear full protective gear and ride in a safe and predictable manner!

[@girdhar3224]

Ans - don't apply braking in friction zone

[@bodyfixclinic]

Great advice Andrey, thank you. As a complete beginner with less than 5 weeks of bike ownership and even less riding experience I was enthused to discover your channel about 3 weeks ago. I was also absolutely gutted to see your fleeing Russia video and hopefully you and your wife are in a safe place now. But I’m now over the moon that you have been able to keep posting your videos as it must mean that you are safe and well, and it’s a win-win really as the information you have provided has been very clear, concise and informative. I have found your drills very beneficial, so much so that I have joined your Facebook group, and I look forward to going from strength to strength as a new rider. Thanks again for your great work!

[@MotoControlEn]

Thank you very much!:)

[@gabiferreira6864]

Thank you for this, and all your other videos! I've just bought my first bike (a Honda CG Fan 160) and they have helped me immensely. Спасибо!))

[@Ramon51650]

Yet another useful and informative tutorial - thank you!

[@karenshoucairmcgray4902]

These tips are good to know. Thank you!

[@233kosta]

But also, clutches are cheap and easy to get to on most bikes, so if you do a lot of this sort of thing, it's worth keeping a spare one (plus whatever else you need to swap it). Same for brake wearables (pads, seals, pins, etc.), oil filters, etc.

[@lazylightning9378]

2:14 always wild seeing different languages on such large signs, :) thanks for the amazing videos as always

[@bubunbikers]

Sir I have learnt many things from you. Thank you for your informative demo. In steeper and longer up gradient how to maintain the rpm and momentum without burning the clutch?

[@deepthoughtdeepbreath2383]

New here bought a bike with my last stimulus check. 1999 Kawasaki Ninja 500R. I fell on it, I didn't want to ride it for a while. Lately I'm trying to do the work on it myself to get it going again. I think the clutches were burned. I'm having a hard time putting it in gear as well. Hopefully the new clutches will help. Once I have a bike running again I need to start learning. I've been checking out your videos and I think I'm going to start here on your channel.

[@defh1980]

Always 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@jonathonpursell1268]

Good video it hard work for clutch to take off on the hills . Even on the flat move the bike a little than take off in first or second might reduce wear is that true ?

[@Eve....747]

Should be put into training when going for full license... 👍

[@jackblack5246]

Hi Andrey, where to start. I like the videos a lot and I had to look on a few, since I came off my FZ1 recently. Winter time and the new tyres (S22s, but not the first time having a new tyres) were for sure playing role in that, but also my 2 year break when I did not have a bike, could contribute to it as well. My problem is, I got really bad skid to the left, as I slightly accelerated coming of the curve, and then trying to save it, I got even wilder one to the other side, where I had to drop it. I was going up hill, speed probably 30-35 mph. I came off the bike once before but that was totally my fault, as the turn was sharp from downhill up, also at the Xmass time. I have been to Norway in 2018 all the way to Nordkapp, three weeks on my own, just meeting people and bikers on the way, traveling fully packed up ( +/- 50kg) and I was riding in the rain, in serpentines I was taking it nicely, slightly brushing my foot pegs off those days. That was in 2019. Now I have a bike again , since September 2022, a little stronger, from Fazer 8 to FZ1. The rear tyre is 190 instead of 180 in size. I have decided to do some of these exercises and brush off the skills. BUT, is there anything I need to bare in mind going from 108bhp to 150bhp apart from that the bike is stronger? I feel, personally, I need to get to know the bike better in using the throttle when coming out of the corner, also the wider gum surely needs more attention. Don't get me wrong, I love 1000cc naked, the bike is even lighter than my previous Fazer 800 and gives me really nice experience in less effort in using the throttle, but cornering seems different. I want to take this bike on tour around Spain this year, but before I go, I need to get myself sorted and absolutely friendly with this one machine. It has the same frame as Fazer 8, the same feeling.. But am I missing something? Full lock turn is not a big problem even now, but it is not smooth..atm. Before my break, I was riding every day, commuting to work, food shopping, all on my bike (FZ8) for over 6 years. My confidence is still fine, even after that little road slide up hill, but I fee like I'm going to have to refresh hard, at least for a few weeks, if not months, until it'll start coming back fully. All the best Andrey!

[@SBK27]

Bro I have some S22s on my s1k, they’re some sticky boys for sure

[@adithyaar9122]

👏

[@ginoasci2876]

What if the motorcycle is new and the clutch is smooth and it works great, then it goes in for the first service at 600 miles, and the clutch hops in first gear until you let it out all the way? The clutch works good in second, third, forth, fifth, and sixth.

[@wonniethepoop7856]

👍

[@jonathanoliva6553]

Any other reason why clutch worn out

[@KristianKumpula]

Wet clutches can take a lot of abuse so I don't worry about burning the clutch.

[@dgphi]

I've never understood why people say to always drag the rear brake.

[@EEEBA1]

Possibly because it gives stability to the bike when riding at very low speeds. After you practice that for a while you can do the same thing without the rear brake. Ride safe my friend!

[@Elscroftz]

Hello. If I understood it correctly, We should NOT be using our rear brake for a long time while using the clutch in the friction zone, because the drag created from braking heats up the clutch. Thus, we could use the friction zone endlessly, with no wearing, as long as we don't use the brakes at the same time. Correct?

[@MotoControlEn]

Hi! Using endlessly with no wear at all is a bit overstretched, but basically yes, this way the wear on the clutch is minimal.

[@anginbadaii]

Hi, does that mean it's better to press the clutch handle first and then hit the rear brake? Or did I get it wrong?

[@korymcgraw6483]

I already burnt mines on my honda vt750 shadow aero