MOTOR SERIES #2: How to Access and Service Bearings With New Grease and Wicks

This video is a demonstration of how to find, clean, and lubricate the bearings for a White 77 Rotary Sewing Machine Motor. This method can work for many, but not all Rotary motors from this period. I also show how to remove and replace the old grease wicks and replace with new along with which grease to use!

[@DanielMcAlerney]

Let it be known that you are a champion. Your depth of knowledge and attention to mechanical detail make your videos not only useful to watch the first time, but for several times afterwards. Thank you for making these videos.

[@GinaDenault]

Thank you... i picked up an old 1948 domestic rotary in a cabinet for 5 bucks guy didnt have a clue what he was selling. He called it a tall side table. Your videos helped me restore this old gem and she is my favorite to sew my quilts on. Thank you

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thank you for sharing. It is great to hear that more machines are getting saved.

[@ronald5629]

I know a guy that is a pretty good expert on these types of machines Kenmore domestic White and he says there are about three types of bobbins basically look the same but won't interchange

[@ronald5629]

These machines have silver plated shiny parts it's not Chrome it's better .

[@CH-mu7yb]

Thank you so much for these videos! I’m a beginner leather worker and found an old machine just like this for a steal and your vids have helped me get it up and running so wonderfully!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Glad to help!

[@rosegalvez6821]

I have had a keen interest in old machines as I am a firm believer they are the best quality as compared to the machines of today. I love your tutorials! They are done in real time and loaded with with the potential issues one may stumble across that are easy hurdles involving springs, gunk, torque cleaning etc. Thank you for taking time to do this for someone like me who wants to know with nowhere to go to learn it!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

So glad to hear you enjoy these machines the way I and so many others do Rose. Welcome!

[@coticrisanto2042]

Si son las mejores pero algunas piezas ya están descontinuadss otras son .uy carcas porque se piden de lejos en el mismo país no las hay

[@Aspengrowth]

Rarely if ever have i seen such a clear well detailed Instruction video. Thank you so much! Seems amazing to me to find instructions on the very same sewing machine as my own. I have never seen one like mine before. And i have used it all my life. It's still works so well except it smells like ozone when I run it. So i will check out your first video about the motor. The original receipt on mine says 1953.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@LadyD22]

Hi my name is Diana, I love watching you videos, they are very informative, the reason I’m here is because I have recently acquired a white 77 series sewing machine, I found it out in the curb, I guess what they say about another mans trash is another mans treasure, is very true, I had no idea i had hit the jackpot, it was in very bad condition, very dirty and it was so dry that the gears didn’t move at all, so I dare not try to turn the motor on, but I took it apart cleaned it up nicely added a little bit of oil to all the gears and Presto we have movement, now I need to clean my motor and after watching this video I feel like I need to replace the wick and clean the brush area, I’ve been trying to find the wick for it, but I must be doing something wrong because I cannot find it. So my question is do you sell it or do you know any online shops that do supply them. I’m so excited to use this machine but I’m not having any luck in find it, so I figure I ask. So thank you for the videos and for sharing your knowledge with us. Be blessed.

[@Sunsetluver1]

Is there a specific grease for the motor or can the grease used for gears be used?

[@brandondegner4338]

Do you have any resources or advice on how to tear this motor down further? I have a Kenmore Model 83 that is the same as this and I am trying to get the motor back up and running. I've tested the pedal and it is working but I'm not getting any voltage on my meter in the contact chambers where the brushes sit whenever the pedal is depressed.

[@nancyhallman5299]

Really liked your video. Do you know the size of the wick that is inside the wheel on the machine's right side. The wick is between the wheel that disengages the needle (for bobbin winding) and the large wheel close to the machine body.

[@laurenpennington8338]

Thank you so much for your thorough videos. I was recently gifted this machine and need to start giving it the love it deserves. On a previous video you said we could email you, but I couldn’t find it. Are you still taking emails?

[@riflemods]

Been watching your great videos the last couple months, thank you for the quality. The latest on your rotary series caught my eye mainly because Iblove solid vintage machines and I guess I’m partial to Whites cause I own a 15-91 clone. You know how they sew, amazing ! After watching a few of your rotary video I jump on area C.L. and low and behold I see a clean model 77. The gentleman is probably asking top buck. My question, knowing your knowledge of this machine and most vintage brands, how valuable is a model 77 in your opinion. What might a “fair” price be in your opinion? Tuff question I know, but had to ask. Keep up the great work ! Bryan

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hey Bryan. I share your respect for the White machines of this period. Value in machines is tricky, but I can say generally that White Rotary machines typically bring far lower prices than Singers. Also, if its in great aesthetic shape, that is great, BUT........it still should be overhauled since most all machines that I get have sat for a long......time. Also, these machines are not rare. They were made for decades and White was second in size and sales only to Singer so keep that in mind. But if you really like it, then hey? Value is also in the eye of the beholder so there's that.......

[@CH-mu7yb]

Can you do a video on what daily or weekly, general use maintenance that should be done for these machines? Like where its important to lube / clean. If you’ve done it and I missed it in you library please link it!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Well, the good news is that most home/domestic sewing machines do not require a mandatory cleaning/oiling based on the calendar. The hours of sewing determine how often you oil the machine. (try oiling 1 drop at oiling points at the start of a new sewing project). Cleaning also is determined by how much you use the machine because the buildup of lint at the feed dog and/or bobbin case area is proportionate to how often and how long you use the machine. (Think hours, not days). That being said, these machines like to run and when they sit for extended periods without being used, they can, as I like to put it, "Fall asleep" and can require 'waking up' with some of the techniques you see in the videos here on the channel. How long a machine can sit will vary depending on a number of factors such as how complex the machine's mechanicals are. So, if a machine is a basis straight stitch model, it will need some cleaning/oiling after having sat for a while. If your machine has ZigZag or multi-stitch capability, it will generally be a bit more 'cranky' when woken up.

[@ronteunissen8628]

Where can I buy the small wick. I have not been able to find it online.

[@victoriabell4436]

Thank you

[@charutreeraven9845]

I have an e6354 Kenmore/White cast iron rotary sewing machine. Could you tell me how to clean and oil it properly? It works, but one of the front right levels didn't move. This concerns me. Thanks!

[@ladanyafriday1724]

Do you have any videos concerning thre wiring of this machine. I'm not sure about technical terms but the cord that plugs directly into the motor (yours is removed for this video), when installed it runs under the cabinet and into a cylindrical box from that box another cord (or maybe its the same cord, not sure) runs to the knee pedal. The third cord is the regular one that I plug into the wall. Do you have any suppliers for these items and any videos that can be helpful for the replacement. People keep saying check ebay or online??? But the point is im not even sure what I should be typing. My new to me series 77 works but some of the chord covering are shredded so I'm trying to hold off until i replace the wiring...but that seems like an impossible task currently. Thank you for your assistance.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

You definitely don't want to use it until all compromised cords have been replaced. Here is a site that you can find the cords more explicitly. It is a three pronged cord that White used for most of its brands for decades. Key word when searching is "White Rotary Cord". You might find it easier to replace the cord and use a foot pedal in place of the kneel controller box. Here is the site I find a lot of Rotary parts (White, Kenmore, Dressmaster, Franklin etc.) sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com/store/page43.html

[@ladanyafriday1724]

Thanks a lot!! Just one small inquiry. From the pics I'm seeing of the cord attached to the foot pedal, it seems as though no wiring will be required, simply attach the 3 prong to motor and other end to wall outlet. Does that seem right? Just making sure because that would absolutely make life easier. Thank you so much again. You are a life saver on KZbin! Keep up the great videos..because of you I already purchased my accurate sized wick and grease and I'm gonna be following along with this video. Though the current wick is very greasy i can tell its pretty old so I might as well change it out.

[@kevinochieng6372]

i recently took on a pseudo restoration project on a machine very similar to this but it bears the Kenmore branding. Would you be able to point me in the right direction when it comes to acquiring parts for it? the one i am working on is the Kenmore Model 117.552

[@jomercer21113]

Made by White, so many White parts work from the late 1940s into early 1950.

[@SleighRich]

Hello, Thank you for being SO generous with your knowledge! I have almost this exact machine. Difference is that my bobbin winder is on the back. The motor is identical except mine appears to have only little brass nuts where yours has grease ports. Are the parts missing, or is it greased differently? The little brass nuts have tiny holes in the middles of them.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hard to say for sure Rich without seeing them. FYI, brands would often keep machine designs in production for decades but would make "running changes" along the way. It is possible that yours has a different lubrication setup than those you see me servicing.

[@SleighRich]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for replying in such a timely manner. I was afraid of that. Any resources you can recommend to help me find the info? I've had no luck finding a manual or anything else with my feeble searches. I even wondered if those tiny holes were for oil...

[@daviddoe6228]

Super helpful! What size is that wick? I have a similar gertz rotary and I'm trying to replace the motor wicks, thank you

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Should be roughly 1/8 inch in diameter.

[@daviddoe6228]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage awesome thank you, I'll give it a shot

[@morninglaurie]

I also have a wiring question on the White/Kenmore plugs. I acquired a White Model 41…with the 3 blades as shown in your video. I am re-wiring the light. Purchased a new foot pedal/power cord (electronic) combination (which reviewed by other owners of these machines says it works). Machine came with cut off power cord..3 wire. The female part indicated black, red, white. Motor (male part) has one wire from motor to blade that would correspond to the white, one wire from motor to the center blade (corresponding to red) . The light has a wire to the “red” blade, and one to the “black” blade. Is the center blade the neutral in this case? The light originally had same wire from brass screw on fixture to the center blade. In looking at the new power cord/foot pedal combo, the 2 center wires are the ridged ones (assuming neutral?). The wall plug has a polarized blade, and I know a lot of people say it doesn’t matter about polarity on these old machines, but I want to do it right…. I don’t see anyone talking about old White wiring convention - lots out there about Singers….should I be wiring from brass screw to the “black” blade, and silver screw to the “red” center? Or is this just completing a circuit and doesn’t matter? I haven’t plugged it in yet as want to get this done right before trying it….

[@Aspengrowth]

will cleaning the brushes and changing the wick reduce the smell of ozone when I operate my Machine?

[@annesummers09]

Where do you buy replacement bearings?

[@ronruiz1250]

Got a new rubber drive pulley cant seem to get the wheel to move its a White rotary 55 model

[@sphinxios]

for ball bearings use grease, and for bronze bearing use oil. bronze bearings are made out of a special type of bronze called sintered bronze wich is sort of cooked in oil where all the tiny space in between are filled with oil. to best clean these is to let them be in a container filled with good solvent like acetone or similar for a day or two the more the better. After that you need to warm the bearing slowly to about 70-80 celcius to get rid of the solvent put the bearing in warm oil heated to same temperature so all the air inside heats and gets out, let the oil cool down with the bearing in it so all the space filled with air will be filled with oil. another method is to put bearing in a container made for vacuum and fill up with oil so the bearing is covered and [ut it under vacuum until most of the bubbles of air are gone the let air back in and voids will be filled with oil

[@Balkongodlaren]

That is correct, and good advice for restoring "self lubricating" sintered bronze bearings, also known as "Oilite" bearings. Invented by Chrysler in 1930. I would also add that penetrants that leave a wax like "protective" residue (like WD-40) never should be used around those bearings, since they clog the pores. Older bronze bearings like the ones in this video are made of massive bronze and needs to be lubricated, either with oil or with some kind of grease. They are easily recognized since holes or cups for lubrication are always provided with these bearings, and not with the "self lubricating" ones. The new formulation of Singer grease, made after about 2013, may be better for gears, but the general consensus seems to be that it's unsuitable for old sewing machine motors with wick lubrication due to its higher operating temperature. There are different opinions on what the best replacement is. Petroleum jelly or Vaseline seems to be the most common recommendations. (Except from those who sell their own expensive replacement products, of course...) Lubrication of this kind of bearing is regulated by heat. When the bearing temperature rises the heat is conducted to the grease cup. The "sponge" a.k.a. "soap" component of the grease releases the oil, which is then wicked to the bearing. More heat also lowers the viscosity of the oil and increases the wicking action, cooling the bearing, making a positive feedback loop that keeps the bearing at the designed operating temperature. As long as grease with the right operating temperature is used. Grease should not be applied directly to this kind of bearing and the grease cup should not be stuffed with so much grease that it's forced into the bearing. A newly cleaned and dry bearing and a new wick should be given a drop of light oil as a start. Grease lubricated motors, generally older and/or larger, without wicks, requires another type of grease entirely. They are uncommon but not unseen on sewing machines.

[@lindadevuyst9311]

I have the original manual and it states “unscrew the grease cups and fill with Vaseline occasionally, depending on use of the machine”....

[@joletty1793]

@@Balkongodlaren Thank you so much for this information, very helpful!

[@joletty1793]

@@lindadevuyst9311 Thank you Linda for input of use of Vaseline in greasing these machine wicks! 😊

[@coticrisanto2042]

@@lindadevuyst9311 yo ocupo darle mantenimiento al motor y se como

[@itbbrokeifix]

how often do you need to replace grease

[@brittniesmith8201]

Were do we buy grease wicks .we molde white rotary electric.

[@johnkeith9531]

Your "poker" implement, I believe, is a dental elevator - used in the extraction of teeth before forceps are applied.

[@528hzav9]

Thanks

[@lfuentes4098]

Can you link the wicks please?

[@lisasocha3195]

I just purchased a White Rotary 43. I am following your videos. The machine came with only 1 bobbin. How do I know the size? Do you happen to know the size and recommend a distributor?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

These are typically known as "Rotary bobbins". You can find them from sellers who have Kenmore and White branded (a few other brands also) of Rotary style machines made by the White Sewing Company. Here is one site that sells them but there are lots of places online to find these and they are not very costly. sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com/store/page44.html You can search for vintage ones online and there are also reproductions. I prefer vintage myself. Search other sites such as Ebay, Etsy, Bonana etc.

[@annesummers09]

Could you also show us how to put the bobbin casing in? Thanks

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I would gladly make a video of that if I still had this machine. Its a great suggestion though.

[@u007foshay]

I have a "needy" model just like this that I want to rehab. I don't want to rebuild the motor. I'd rather purchase a new motor. What type of NEW motor would you use if you were replacing? Thanks.

[@beverley-memawmawclarkwhit5102]

hello, the cap that you have to cover the wick and spring is missing on one side of my machine, do you know where I can get another one???

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Try this site and if you don't see it listed, email the business owner as they might guide you to a good spot for one. These were made in very large numbers; second only to Singer so you should eventually find one.

[@denisebendickson8593]

where do i get the grease to do mine? i am so afraid i am going to mess it up and not be able to use the machine because if this part get mesed up then the machine will be useless. i know i have to do mine in my Domestic rotary series 153 i have. i love that machine and want it to work.great video

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

You can search online for "Singer Lubricant". Be sure to get the tube that is Red/White/Pink.

[@joseveliz6979]

I have a Kenmore rotary that the manual said to add petroleum jelly. Sounds good to me.

[@windywalling]

Is cotton wicking for oil lamps ok for this? I can easily find the 1/8" cotton wicks. Or if it must be felt, where would you find that? Thank you.

[@losbozos]

It's 1/4". I found it on Etsy

[@afrazeestearne]

I am hoping to get my Domestic Rotary 153 going. Thank you for the the tutorials! Can you help me with the bobbin winder guide (marked (1) in the instruction manual) it came off in my hand. The parts that I caught are a pin without screw threads, a gold colored disc and a small spring plus the main guide piece. I can see how the whole thing should go back together but I don’t know how it is to stay in place. Therefore I cannot wind a bobbin. Tell me where to send a picture or video if you need to see it.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello. I wish I still had mine here as I could show you in video form. I don't know for sure, but it could be that you have lost a spring or the spring was already missing or broken. Some of these devices are held in place with screws but some utilize a spring setup or both. You might try replacing the whole unit which the seller should offer with all the parts. Try bonanza.com as well as Ebay and Etsy. I find more of my vintage parts on bonanza but you want to use a broad search. Also, this seller carries a number of Rotary Parts. If you don't see what you might need for this there, email the owner as they may have a direction to point you in if they dont stock what you need. FYI, these machines were made in pretty big numbers so there is a good chance you should be able to find what you are needing. The cost should not be that high either.

[@afrazeestearne]

Vintage Sewing Machine Garage The spring came off in my hand. I cannot figure out what holds it all in. But I am able to wind the bobbin by holding the whole mechanism in place with my finger until I figure something more permanent. It’s a great machine.

[@jackiemiller7157]

Do you have a distributor for the wick material?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Yes, it was some time ago I found this site, but they appear to still carry the wick I used in the video. It's the 1/8 inch size: Here is the site: www.durofelt.com/image_28.html

[@ronald5629]

They have wick oilers

[@eatanelkberger6416]

I have one of these motors that is missing the grease cap on one side. Do you know of anywhere to get a new cap and spring? I've searched, but can't find it anywhere.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I would try bonanza.com or ebay. Also, Central Michigan Sewing and a website that has both new and vintage Rotary machine parts: sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com/store/page44.html

[@eatanelkberger6416]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks. I've been doing quite a bit of looking and it appears that it would be cheaper to just buy another old machine at a low price and scavage parts from it. There seem to be plenty of models with this motor and they appear to be on the lower-priced brands.

[@annesummers09]

What about putting grease in the top of the motor, under the 2 round things?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Anne. NO, NO, definitely don't put anything in there!!!! Those are caps that give access to the motor brushes. Anything other than the brushes inserted there will destroy the motor. The ONLY place where grease goes (no oil for these motors) is in the grease ports that I illustrate in the video. Thanks for asking, great question!

[@verdandiknits]

I wonder if the wig could be replaced with a cotton wig usually used for petroleum lamps. Those are easy to get in different sizes and cost only a few pennies.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Vera and thanks for asking. I would highly recommend against the cotton wick idea. First, some of those cotton wicks used for oil lamps and/or candles have wires which would be a hazard and ruin the motor. For the cotton wicks that do not have wire inside, they are not rigid enough and will tend to bind or bunch up. The wicks I have been using are felt wicks and have their own rigidity that helps them stay in position while in use.

[@drjean5580]

What type/ brand of grease do you use in the white77 motor

[@TheHobbyistHome]

If you have a manual that’s the best place to look (see my comment above! And if you don’t you can probably find the manual online). I have a kenmore 117.552 and it calls for petroleum!

[@annesummers09]

How would I know if the bearings are bad and how would I replace them? Thanks.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Good question Anne. It is surprising how long these motor bearings can last given that most were not maintained the way they should have been. There is not exact science but one clue can be sound since bad bearings can make strange noises. Other times, bearings can seize up. I have not ever had that happen and fortunately, once the overhaul and new grease has been installed, it lasts for quite a while (depending on how many hours one uses a machine).

[@jackbendickson7487]

I have a domestic rotary series 153? would it work for mine

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

If your motor looks like this one, it should. The key is to look for the "Grease Ports" like the ones you see me accessing and replacing the wicks on. Later versions of this motor used different bearings that took sewing oil, but although I would have to see your machine up close, I suspect your's has the same motor design.

[@annesummers09]

The bobbin in this particular machine, I mean.

[@annesummers09]

Is there another motor that I could use for this machine if I can't find the same one? Thanks

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

New motors for these are not in production but there were many machines like this made over decades. Try searching sites such as bonanza. come along with Ebay. Motors do come up for sale periodically.

[@annesummers09]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks

[@jackbendickson7487]

what kind of grease you are using ?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Its called, "Singer Lubricant". It comes in a White/Red/Pink tube. Its a viscous grease that is very useful especially when greasing bearings. I show it in my video on "Sewing Machine Restorer's Toolbox"

[@jackbendickson7487]

can you do this to a motor for a new home 560

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I don't have one of those specific models, but if its the one I'm thinking of, yours is a 1960's Made in Japan model. If I come across one, I will consider making a video of it.

[@papergatorzfedducca7998]

Can these motors be slowed down. I have that same motor but its called KENMORE but it looks just like that.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Changing out the speed control unit from the original to a new generic electronic pedal is the only way I know that motor speed can be graduated. I would have the motor checked first (Sewing-Vacuum Service centers) to be sure it is electrically sound. They could also wire up the new speed control for you.

[@papergatorzfedducca7998]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage thanks a lot for the tip. I'm going to reach out to them.

[@judypruitt75]

I have a domestic rotary sewing machine in cabinet. Model 151-88111 and the motor only says DOMESTIC SEWING MACH. CLEVELAND, OHIO, USA. E - 6354 it doesn't say white or dresser on it. But machine does have the good housekeeping label on it. I trying to find info on it. It does have the silver parts .

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Judy. The listing of Cleveland is a strong indicator that it was made by White since that was their headquarters and factory location for much of their history.

[@judypruitt75]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage thank you, I have learned so much from your videos. You are very helpful

[@BubbleT567]

Hi there! So I tried using the “Sew-retro” motor grease on my kenmore rotary (117.552) as this was what came up on my internet search. My machine is now running very slow and this was the only change I have made and she was running beautifully just prior. Has anyone else had this issue and is there any way for me to salvage her? I really love this machine and hope I haven’t ruined it.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

You might try (with great care and caution), unscrewing the caps to the grease reservoirs and using a hair dryer to soften and melt the grease you used. Fortunately, the openings to the grease ports face downward allowing gravity to help you here. Prepare for melted grease dripping with towels or something to catch it to prevent an unhappy mess, but this should get it out for the most part. Hair dryers are not generally as hot as heat guns, but still start on the lowest setting and take care not to damage the machine (or yourself!).

[@TheHobbyistHome]

Thank you for your response. I ended up learning a little more from my mistake, and braved taking the motor apart and giving it a gentle cleaning… thankfully it worked out! She is up and running beautifully again. Serves me right for not reading the manual regarding type of lubricant 🤦🏻‍♀️ I do truly appreciate your videos. Keep them coming!

[@larryraynar9760]

how can you tell you got a bad motor

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Larry. What brand and model of sewing machine do you have ?

[@ronald5629]

I hope no one said to put a torque wrench on it LOL