The Trainer #84: How You Can Measure Voltage When Your Meter Leads Say You Shouldn't

[@joshuapruden6497]

I said it once, and Illl say it again - This should be on cable. I would never leave the house. Fantastic channel!!!!

[@dtnel]

Mmm ya you would. To fix the car and then come back watch more after. Lol...

[@hydrocarbon7045]

Dude, have you been in coma since the 90s, mobil phones have internet now 😂

[@carlosv2474]

​@@dtnel yeah but you could put a tv in garage and you would still be watching it.

[@voltekhybridevrepair9901]

I've been helping some younger techs learn more about electrical troubleshooting, the first thing I told them was watch every single "The Trainer" video. Your videos get right to the point and teach very valuable techniques; thank you for your great videos and keep up the good work!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@daraprak6498]

Just found these videos this past weekend, and all I got to say is, “WOW”!!! Love your incredible educational contents, I’ve been watching them nonstop since I found it. I’ve always felt intimidated whenever I had to work on anything with electrical gremlins; but now, I feel like your teachings have made me more confident 🙏 thank you

[@macegarage9603]

Same here 🔧

[@jimlee5626]

I am a pipeling cathodic protection tech. I am telling anyone I run into that is entering the NACE cathodic protection program, to head here prior to their week long classes. This is a super primer for preping for classes and testing. Thanks again for the clear professional presentation of concepts that are not easy to get ones head around. Well, done.

[@eclectarama]

Pete, this is the clarity of explanation I needed to help with my understanding of voltage drop on the ground side. Thanks for taking the time to make this.

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

I had a 240V dryer line that would NOT run my dryer at all. Got an appliance tech out to check the dryer, he said we had a bad motor, spend $350 for a new motor and it still didn't work, he got a 2nd motor because he thought the replacement was bad, 2nd one also did not run ... WTF ... He got another tech to show up and they could not figure out why the dryer would not run. Eventually they said it was bad electronics in the dryer ... Purchased a new dryer ... Got it installed and it did not work. HUH WTF ... We called the company and they sent out their tech, he could not figure out why it did not work, then he placed an order for ANOTHER DRYER. Week later the 2nd NEW IN BOX dryer shows up, plugged it in and NOTHING ... NOW we are pissed. I checked for power at the outlet and got 240V but the dryer still didn't work. We got our $$ back from the NEW IN BOX dryer and took our "bad" dryer to a used appliance store that does repair. He plugs it up and the SOB works ... Took it back home and NOTHING .... So at this point is was electrical because it did work at their shop but not ours. I checked the outlet and got 120V on one leg and 120V on the other leg and 240V between both legs. Then i said, if we got 120V on each leg and 120V on the other and 240V across the two, WHY THE F is this not working .... Then the light in my head came on .... Voltage was only half the story. Voltage is just pressure but AMPERAGE is the flow ... Just because i got 240V between the 2 does not mean current will flow if there if a restriction. So i went and purchased 150 ft of 240V wire, went to the panel and disconnected the 2 hots from the breakers and wired in my temporary 240V line, ran it across the floor and to the dryer room, wired up the temp cord to the outlet and I WILL BE DAMNED THE DRYER KICKED ON AND WORKED ... After disconnecting the original 240V line that ran to the outlet and measured the 2 hots and the N wire, i had a 500 ohm SHORT between the black and red wire and a 1200 ohm short between the red/black and the N wire ... This 240V line ran from the panel, down and under the trailer and was just laying on the dirt, actually was about 6 inches below the dirt, it was SOAKED and WET and it was NOT direct bury wire .... SO the wire even though was passing the 240V .. when we tried to push current thru, the wet wire was restricting the current flow and enough to not allow the dryer to run ... after we yanked it all out, the 4 copper conductors were soaked and the outer jacket was just barely holding on ... So the water was restricting the current flow. Same as this video, that resistive fault is slowing down the voltage.

[@Hyst3ricalCha0s]

I've been hunting electrical ghosts in my vehicle (fu, Cadillac) for 5 months. This channel has been the absolute best at explaining electrical everything. Thank you. I wish I found this channel months ago

[@pctuterman1]

Pete you're a true trainer. You really know how to keep my attention. You explain so well. You teach from a beginner's point of view and that's what makes your lessons so clear. You're great at what you teach. I love watching you because each and every time I do, I learn something new. Your experience at teaching really shows in your style and your method. Keep up the good works Pete and you will always have people like me who wants to learn more about vehicle diagnosis and repairs watching you. Thanks for doing what you do for us to learn. Maybe you should title your channel "Motor Age; The See Clearly Method"

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@spyonthesoftparade]

These videos are absolutely incredible, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us all.

[@henrykha2051]

Master Pete, I enjoyed watching your video on how to check voltage drop. It a very good easy understand explanation lesson. Thanks

[@Sparky-ww5re]

I don't do much work on automotive electrical systems, I work on residential and some light commercial, but this video regarding voltage drop is spot on. one way I've checked for voltage drop in a house, was I measured the hot to ground, hot to neutral, and finally neutral to ground voltage in a receptacle with a heavy load plugged in, such as a 1500 watt space heater. the neutral to ground voltage is the difference between the hot to neutral and hot to ground voltage. A receptacle with a neutral to ground voltage more than about 2 volts is a sign of high resistance connections somewhere upstream, or the wiring may be undersized for the load or length of the run. Sometimes it's necessary to step up to 12awg wiring on a 15 amp circuit, which normally uses 14awg, on longer runs from the panel, to keep voltage drop at the far end under control

[@lawsonhollenbaugh3626]

WOW, PETE YOU HAVE REALLY OPENED MY MIND TO UNDERSTAND THIS CIRCUIT TESTING , GREAT INSTRUCTOR, MUCH APPRECIATED 👍

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad it helped

[@NewLevelAuto]

Beautiful presentation as always Pete. And perfect timing, I was just trying to explain this to a greenhorn I met on the road . I will show him this video ! See you at Vision

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Awesome! Thanks for commenting.

[@smms1276]

👍 👍

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

New Level Auto... you're a DONK...! and why you do not see how this presentation half sucks.

[@am.b5688]

People who didnt go to automotive/diesel school or are not real mechanics will never apreciate this guy the way we do, Just amazing!!

[@joshuapruden6497]

I just found this KZbin channel. This should be on cable. I would watch this all day!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks! Call the Motor Trend channel and tell 'em to hire me!

[@darinstocks1184]

Pete I think you just hit my top 2 list. Almost ALL of that was brand new to me and with how you just explained it I feel as though I've known it for decades. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I'm happy that I dropped in. :)

[@arc3075]

I'm an industrial journeyman and work on HVAC equipment that can range from 100-1500tons. With the popularity of DC power playing a larger part in engineering. I FIND THESE VIDEOS TO BE AN ENORMOUS HELP TO ME. BIG THANKS TO YOU A D YOUR TEAM FOR PROVIDING THESE VIDEOS🍻🍻🍺🍺

[@subietec]

Thanks Pete, you're a gentleman and a scholar

[@MichaelHoyt-MulticraftTech]

This is by far the best, easily understandable explanation of how this works, I've ever seen! Thanks for sharing!

[@andrameda1]

Hello Pete, I have been regularly watching your videos, self educating and using your skills, here is a summary of your lessons: draw test in series with power pak; voltage drop, wire diagram reading, harness tracing, resistance ohms testing isolating wires between relays and fuses, and more, the splices on legs, I am learning and growing thanks to your group. This is what I have worked on to find the shorted wire, not yet found, the amp draw did not disappear yet. I could not find the harness #18 under the dash. There was a yellow connector with yellow wire under the air duck on center of fire wall in alignment with the shift dead center could not get to it. What I was able to do, was do parasitic draw test, disconnecting neg bat cable, setting up meter to 20 amps connecting meter neg lead to bat neg terminal ; positive lead to bat neg cable; got and amp draw of 0.11amps disconnecting all connectors one by one until the amp draw disappeared to identify the harness and the harness branches, the amp draw stayed on during the connectors, that were disconnected and reconnected; those to the left side of center console pillar; then to the connectors on the right side of console pillar, including the air condition connectors, all in center console. Proceeded to the connectors on the left kick panel; then proceeded to the connectors on passenger side heater blower and cruise control module, the amp draw did not disappear, at all. Proceeded to engine main harness, at the fire wall, with the rubber grommet protector, shaking it by hand, through to the fuse box, to the coils, to the injectors, to neutral safety switch, the brown ground wires by the coils and injectors, all the way to alternator harness and battery cables, the amp draw did not disappear from the volt meter? The engine grounds, where solid to body, not loose nor rusted. I was hoping to isolate the harness connector, by disconnecting it, exposing the male pins and the female receptor terminals making the amp draw of 0.11amps disappear; then using alligator clips to test each connector male pin on one side, then using a nail on the other end of alligator clip, gently touching the female terminals, one by one, until I found the wire, that would make amp draw reappear to identify that particular wire, within the harness, No response at all. I did not disconnect the fuse box to see the spliced wire tracing it back to gauge fuse and branch harness in upper dash. I did not want to remove the upper dash and could see, no connectors, to disconnect, further. I did not do a resistance test from EFI relay to the open/circuit relay to check a splice in wire diagram under fuse 10 (gauge) . I was not certain on how to proceed; thought about probing the isolated color wire identified by wire diagram, with a wire piercing probe but was baffled by how the colors of these wires changes on there way to ground, from one side to the other side, of the wire legs. Thought about a test light to puncture a hole in each wire with a good ground connection. Thought about the amp draw possibly on the power side of the circuit; afraid to connect test light to battery positive on a power side puncturing a hole creating another short power to power. Earlier on, during relay phase, I had tested the ground socket terminals on relays, both control and load side, by connecting test light to positive battery, the ground wire lit up, so they are good, all good, on every relay. The control/ load good too. All relays where tested for resistance on control and load sides and load side for current flow, excellent condition. This was a bully beat down, against what little skills, I've learned. You guys are tough and brave to contend with integrative circuits, I am evolving towards it, after so much pain. Respectfully, Bob Bishop

[@jasonvergara7705]

Pete this one class clarified a lot of things for me after 35 years in the Field awesome like all your other Lessons

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

I'm really glad to hear that! Thank you!

[@rochestertommy9995]

They literally hit on every confusing topic perfectly.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you liked it.

[@stevenwilliams7254]

YOURE PERSPECTIVE HAS HELPED ME INCREASE MY CONFIDENCE AND UNDERSTANDING WITH WIRING CONCERNS. MY NIGHTMARES ARE MORE LIKE JUST BAD DREAMS NOW.....LOL THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! KEEP UP THE EXCELLENT WORK!!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks Steven! Be sure to go to our channel's home page. We have an entire playlist on electrical troubleshooting there!

[@fredsalter1915]

Outstanding video, Pete! Very helpful and well explained. Thanks for making it.

[@nemanjadzombic6101]

Excelent explanation! Maybe the best explanation on the voltage drop on You tube so far. Very easy to comprehence.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you! That means a lot..

[@skyliner32gtr65]

This is so true... especially STOP/START vehicles triggering STOP/START Malfunction on dash or STOP/START not working.

[@skibumwannabe5492]

Been off the tools nearly 10 years, just needed to refresh. Good video, well explained

[@andrameda1]

In your first response, it says it all, it was good news realizing I did not have to tear down the entire dash board pulling out the computer and sensors facing infinite possibilities and probabilities dealing with wire diagrams with little knowledge and so much confusion, the more I learned, the less I understood, lost in the waves going south, east, west and north, for a whole year. In repeatedly reading over and over again, what you have written with forethought and insightful agility, you have distilled the exact section narrowing the flood light focus in my brain to your spot light focus in your trained brain bringing my attention to the docking station, with your tug boat, my ship was lost in the great ocean saving my ship from wreckage, brings tears of gratitude rolling down my eyes, thank you for saving my life. Pete to you and your crew of men whose expertise I have benefited from a warm embrace. Now I fully understand what they in distress felt deeply in their hearts, in their life /death perils, when the first responders arrive at the scene, the medics, Pete, you are that medic, for me being on the receiving side of your care, I never really knew what they in trouble felt like, when I rescued mothers, babies, working men, pets and wild animals and cars from the edge of a cliff and hikers caught on a cliff trapped in the ravines of a slope, I was just a robot, a working machine missing the moments of the sacredness of life and that special self sacrificing human-being risking his own life to save yours, whose is not a machine but a living heart throb of the great spirit energizing that body with courage and fearlessness to face the same danger the victim is caught in, pleading for mercy. In hindsight sight, the car is a machine yet it has an electrical nervous system a consciousness duplicating an organic life form, it also has electricity in its organic or inorganic body, with this realization, all things in a strange way become sacred even a dead body when the animating spirit leaves the body one sees the sacred spirit who made it warm supple making all human beings precious just to be alive; doctors, nurses and those brave medics are touched for a moment by this sacred intelligence, that is all pervasive, this is and that is why, they hide in the dark, when a life is lost crying torrential rains of tears opening the wounded heart's aching pain over vulnerable mortality of the body, which is being watched by the over seeing witness consciousness it self reflects, for the first time the immortal being living inside these flesh bodies is living within as a presence we never knew about, that we silently, suffer when a life is gone forever, that divine presence left. Pete, I would like to reward your goodness with some money, it may offend you, so I give my heart in gratitude as well, thank you my fine gentleman and scholar, for the education and the care you emanate from your presence, we know its not about money, its just a tool to show appreciation and a reminder to remember who we really are, we are not our bodies nor our thoughts we are something greater that cannot be defined a living mystery. Respectfully, BB

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

I guess you fixed the car? 😉

[@andrameda1]

@@MotorAgeMagazine NO, did not fix it yet! I know I will find the short to ground, then it will be fixed. I know computer is good happy I did not spike it with power pak. I know to look for the trigger wire continuity from neutral safety switch work up to ignition checking the harness and block grounds they are good. I know to move the harnesses to see changes in voltage ground side and power side too. I know to re-examine the wire diagram for shared splices; shared grounds amongst sensors, thermistors and potentiometers (throttle), that might be shorted out cause of short, a high or low resistance on the ground voltage is present star relay terminal and it has a weak faint click sound too; what component shares and comes before the next one; and after the flow of current travels to next component, that would be fuse box wires n grounds is after starter & neutral safety switch, engine block ground and body grounds are visually inspected. I know to place battery negative terminal in series with volt meter to negative cable and pull the fuses one by one with meter in amps to see voltage drops on each circuit as fuses are pulled the one that drops to 00 identifies the thief. I know to check fuses with MI Li volts to test all fuses for voltage draws with car off doors locked . You narrowed the section to begin investigation, for me, I now have the hood of the cobra engulfing my mind over the inputs and outputs of the computer's pull down 5 volt reference, bypasses to ground side directly from battery to starter ground on control side ground, with a test light to power and ground of starter relay and main engine relay circuit, with a test light to terminals to see, if the car starts and fuel pump activates her 2 second prime , it was your encouragement and support, that gave me strength to integrate all the information from studies from old text books in my library. Thank you Pete, my boat is steered and on course to finding the ground side thief. Please send me your address to mail you a check for $100.00 dollars for educating me or credit card exchange to express it, so much appreciation. Its an appreciation day for friends and strangers, I practice for just being alive or for good deeds and random acts of kindness. How can I get a power distribution wire diagram, all I have is the Haynes repair manual for Toyota corolla 2000 the wire colors do not match in book and its incomplete, its for just a basic look for the experienced guys. Serenity, peace and intelligence, BB

[@johnbennett2259]

Pete, that's a great explanation. I already understood voltage drop and now understand it a whole lot better, thanks.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@orville58]

I've been watching you for some time now and most of my basic electrical has come from your "trainer" videos thanks for putting in the time to train newbys to the trade.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad you've found them helpful!

[@fvrrljr]

photovoltaic/solar thermal technician: i use to restore classic cars and my first task was to clean all my connections especially the negatives on block and chassis. wish i knew this back in the day. my Hat Off 👍 Edit: watched video in english then added spanish subtitles. i don't know mechanic and electrical spanish expressions. the subtitles did your video justice. in my 60's so i know my proper grammar in spanish but not tech talk

[@marcoescobar5302]

I appreciate the honesty and.. The dedication you take to pretty much Do about a years course in 15 minutes THE TRAINER. my respect. For the old-school wisdom... Learned something new today.....

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@laurijorgenson6683]

Wow, do I feel grateful that I found your tutorials. I know very little about the topic but have always wanted to. I have an old motorhome that I know has ground issues but I need to find them. I love the way you explained this. Made so much sense to me and I felt like I got it. I need to begin putting this into action and testing it now. Thank you so much!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad you liked it!

[@papapetad]

I had a kind of epiphany with this video. The negative side of a component in a circuit is the positive side of the next one down and that diagnosing of ground side issues with a "positive" test lead suddenly makes perfect sense. Between your videos and Scannerdanner's ones, I honestly get all the info I could hope for. I just have to get my hands on your books now because books are just the best along with practical experience to reinforce the theory. Thanks so much for taking the time to share all this.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad it helped you!

[@Kstang2790]

I’m a mechanic and still learn lots from your videos, thanks

[@mike-yp1uk]

Thanks for the back to basics. Sometimes it's the little fundamental stuff that takes us down a rabbit hole. I admire your dedication to create better technicians. Today's cars are complex and we are all in this mess together. Lol

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks Mike!

[@colin5064]

Excellent you are a great communicator,simple and effective no eatra waffle perfect tutorial

[@allenk5649]

This is the best instructional information to date that I have found concerning vtg drop, thank you!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks! We truly appreciate that.

[@thomasldeanjr3337]

Pete Meier is a God! He appears to just be having a regular conversation with you, but what you don't realize is, you're actually learning something!!!! :)

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thomas L Dean Jr Glad you found it helpful.

[@LAnonHubbard]

This clicked for me thanks! I now understand about how some resistance after the load (i.e. on the ground side) can create a voltage drop, thus "stealing" voltage from component earlier in the circuit. Been getting into car maintenance the last few months and electrics is a weak point which I'm having fun learning.

[@b_electric954]

Excellent video! Only additions I'd include are 1) everyone has heard of voltage, but far fewer have heard the term 'electromotive force', so since it was mentioned, I'd include a 10-15 second brief to quickly identify EMF and Voltage as being one in the same, just to bring the terminology full circle there, and 2) roll that into the specific relationship Voltage has with Current/Amperage in that Voltage, when viewed under the EMF perspective, it is the Electro'Motive Force' that pushes or carries the current and is the quasi-catalyst to current, as without the presence of "E"MF (aka: voltage), current (aka as both: amperage and "I"ntensity) cannot exist. (quoted initials reference pie chart variables)

[@robealvarez2891]

People like you made a difference thank you

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks!

[@tommills2097]

Great videos Pete- Thx. You are a very thorough teacher. Please "close" the switches on your circuit diagram. Newbies get very confused, very easily. (ask me how I know- lol). Thx again

[@davidm3210]

That was great boss - thanks a bunch and good health to you & yours!

[@123spuzzum]

Yipee! Finally it has been explained to me in a way I can understand. Thanks Pete!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Sorry for the late reply. 👍

[@tdb4297]

And all the hundreds of videos and dozens of friends I've had try to explain this to me it finally clicked with your explanation thank you so much troubleshooting a battery draining issue on my 1969 Ford f250 that I cannot figure out but this is definitely going to help I replaced the alternator the voltage regulator the battery wiring harness I'm just trying to figure out if it's possibly the starter solenoid even though it's new I know the remanufactured ones are often crap so I'm going to use this information and knowledge you just taught me to go home and test it out thank you so much!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Check out our main channel page and look for the electrical testing play list. I have a few videos on parasitic draw testing that will help you make short work of your issue.

[@charlieogilvie2554]

Thank you electric training is crucial In today's world

[@mikechiodetti6737]

Thanks Pete. When I was at work (retired now) I used to get vehicles with intermittents and unknown electrical problems. Some of the others either didn't understand this testing or gave up. I would show them. Some got it. One vehicle was at a L.A. Dept of Water & Power yard that was near the ocean. Oh ya, it brought back memories of Massachusetts and rusty, crusty vehicles. Body grounds varied in voltage drops. I ran a continuous number 10 gauge wire from a ground point inside the cab on the driver's side to ground points I found under the hood, finally crossing over to the battery on the passenger side and it's body ground there. Had to repair that ground on the body panel then bolt the ground wires solidly to that panel. Eliminated all the intermittent and unknown problems. THAT was a "fun" job! As Ivan would say. "No parts replaced."

[@mharradine57]

This type of video is amazing and seem to have become a subculture in the auto industry. Of 14 tech at my shop, nobody has any interest in watching these types of videos. I'm confident that many don't know what voltage drop is. I imagine it would be a hard business to stay in if you aren't passionate about it. Thankfully not a problem for me.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Those other techs better polish up those electrical troubleshooting skills! Every system on the car that can be designed as an electrical system is going to be - consider electronic steering, braking, and others that have already been "upgraded"!

[@kellyr9388]

Same as a lot of shops !! . I work at a Benz dealer and maybe 3 out of 20 techs understand the basic principal of voltage drop.

[@mharradine57]

@@MotorAgeMagazine I agree! The problem is that even with all of the resources out there and factory training online and in classroom/lab settings, many are content doing the basic mechanical jobs like brakes and control arms all day. If they can get good hours in doing those things, they don't see a reason to make work "harder" for themselves.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

@@mharradine57 With the advent of ADAS and other safety systems, no basic jobs are basic anymore. Thanks for the comments!

[@nemanjadzombic6101]

No one is doing dagnostics job solely for making money. You have to love this job to be good in it, and something inside you don't allow you to be parts changer even if that's easier and brings more money.

[@m.b.smoshitoa8325]

Hi Pete, this info I saw it today, but does not grow old. Thanks thanks thanks Moshitoa (south Africa)

[@randywl8925]

I never thought of actually checking the lead after the load like you did. I always thought you'd be checking resistance from after the load to various points leading to the main ground. In my S10, I cleaned the original grounds then added more grounds to the firewall and the front core support. Great explanations. 👍

[@fredyflores3705]

Thank you sr for a excellent video. I'm attending school to an automotive technician and your videos help me a lot.

[@dee1089]

great job with the white board. pictures explain a lot. easy to understand

[@StupidRalph]

Severely underrated channel. Problem with drive by wire throttle. Replaced TB, battery, pedal, and pigtail. PCM replaced in 2016. Service manual says P2100 is somewhere in ETC motor positive or negative wire. Load tested wiring with incandescent test light. Would back probing ETC connector motor ground and voltage drop testing at B- test CPU ground side switch?

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

First question - are there any related drivability symptoms? Will the engine run at idle only or can it be driven normally? Second question - have you checked for any related TSBs? Third, is this the only code or are there others? Fourth, have you verified that the battery itself is correct for the application and healthy? If there is a confirmed fault, then I would suggest testing the power and ground at the actuator. Reference your meter to battery ground. Check the power supply first by backprobing the power feed and actuating the motor with your scan tool or with the assistance of a helper. If the measured voltage is within a few tenths of the battery's voltage, move to the ground side. Repeat the test. You may even want to use the RECORD feature of your meter to catch a circuit glitch or driver fault - or better yet, a scope. Ground side normal should be just a few tenths of a volt. Hope this helps!

[@bobsmith3569]

Another great job explaining how to pinpoint the resistance, and reason for the load drop. !!!!

[@farleymusclewhite411]

Very nice! I've been a shade-tree "mechanic" since the '70s and never knew this about the ground side circuit (if that's the correct way to say it) measurements. I can hardly wait for the morning sun to arrive so that I can attack the "Lucas Electric" system in my 1972 Triumph with dim lights etc. Thanks!

[@jparson3309]

You are a Great teacher thank you very much for sharing your knowledge my friend

[@NCPDFSB]

great explanation pete. thermal imagery help tremendously too.

[@1atech]

Are you retired 5-0?

[@How2Wrench]

Nice work Pete!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks!

[@mikecont9742]

Great information. Thanks for taking the time.

[@astritzyberaj6132]

Very nice and simple away to explain it,,even people with not much knowledge understand that..well done bud..thank and God bless..

[@miriamvivo4279]

Im a retired lineman from a electric utility trying to fiqure out a po448 on a 2006 subaru sti . Cleared a po442 and 456 with smlke machine but this one is a tuffy. Im 66 years old and took some jolts in my career maybe that has something to do with it. Ill keep trying . Your lessons are top notch . Im usi g my wife's ipad

[@johneric3886]

Excellent work you have terrific communication skills, have a super day!!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@abderrahmanegouasmi7556]

Very very intelligent lecture. Thank you.

[@nickayivor8432]

Good Morning Pete Meier take care and have a great day 👍 Great tutorial thank you 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@joefeldoguiles8719]

I just started watching the Trainor.. Very interesting and informative.. Thank you.

[@s.mendez7160]

The sum of all voltage differences around any closed loop is zero. Kirchhoff's voltage law. Awesome content. Thank you.

[@wyattoneable]

Thanks Pete. You do a good job teaching.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@ecesarchavez]

Great video and explanation Looks like my ground strap might be bad as my fog lights are grounded to the bumper only work when I put a test ground wire from the negative battery post to the fog light ground bolt 👍

[@jonnydcan9482]

Man you are great at passing this knowledge!!! Thank youuu

[@transam8607]

Excellent explanation as clear as it can possibly be. The only problem is locating the wires and grounds for some of us bigginers some of the diagrams and locations are hard to find I'm sure if I open up the harness tracing it i I will end up finding the problem but is that what we have to do or know whear to look instead of stripping everything till we find it just trying to learn how to work smarter and over come the fear everyone has with electrical problems

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

If you're diagnosing an electrical problem, you need a good wiring diagram. One source I've used in the past is the Mitchell DIY site: www.eautorepair.net/. As for finding the source of extra resistance, move back toward the battery until your meter reading returns to normal, using easy spots on the circuit - connectors, splice packs, etc. Then head back the other way in shorter steps until the meter reading goes high again. Keep narrowing it down until you've found the problem.

[@yellowtrain3161]

Great info! Very useful! I’m a locomotive electronics tech and these types of videos are useful as a reminder of different circuit testing techniques.

[@manuelavila6427]

Gracias Orlando tremendo seminario de estos simples detalles basicos podemos resolver inumerables situaciones mas rapidamente de nuevo muchas gracias.. 😮

[@DependableAutoTruck]

great video thanks it is truly simple once you get it but before you do its tough i watch these as refreshers over and over

[@glennpond4689]

Love the explanations easy to follow and is absolutely quality information here. Going to be using this info on my 87 mustang that just doesnt seem right. Battery drain over night but even moreso while driving. Thanks, Glenn Pond

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@derekdaniel9128]

I'm a newbie here, much thanks for sharing the knowledge.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Welcome to the channel!

[@RealWorldGarage]

Excellent job explaining this sir.

[@ddbrink663]

very helpful thanks for making these tutorials..finally was able to get my mind around some of the stuff ive struggled with in the past

[@peterpiper4619]

Thank you very much I have a Chevy van that I've had problems I have nt driven it 6 months I believe now I can fix it I'm excited check it tomorrow

[@stevebanjo197]

Thanks Pete ! EXCELLENT VIDEO , I am starting to get it!!!

[@michaelpigeon3591]

What great Channel Pete. I’ve stumbled across your channel and I’ve been watching it every time i get a chance. You are a great teacher. Thanks for what you do.😊

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks for saying so, Michael! I'm glad you find them helpful.

[@JerrySmiler1968]

Hi, thanks for taking the time to talk us through this. I just want to make sure I understand this. Checking for voltage drop on the positive side requires electrical flow. So you must check whilst the circuit is loaded? Otherwise you could still check the wire beyond a point of bad resistance and get 12v. However, when you checked the alternator body and found volts on the negative side, nothing appeared to be loaded. I think that makes sense to me. If there’s nothing further on the circuit to use the voltage, any voltage (above a small amount) would be a concern. Have I understood that correctly?

[@richardmcwhirter9396]

Thanks again Pete, another great video with clear explanation, brilliant stuff!!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@PrintreFiare]

man..if I had teachers like you, I would probably now be an engineer at NASA or better....

[@bernardocisneros4402]

Hi Pete, why is there a -1.79V (negative 1.79) voltage reading on the voltmeter at 0:22 of the video? You have the pos lead on the alternator housing and the neg lead on neg battery post. Shouldn't the reading be positive 1.79V? How can the neg battery post be at a higher potential than the alternator? Or in other words how can the alternator be at a lower potential than the neg battery post? Isn't this impossible since the lowest potential in that vehicle should be the neg battery post? Thanks for video. A lot of good info.

[@sabinojrnapalan2687]

Hi Pete, as what I learned on our GM training voltage drop should be done in parallel with the circuit, they do not suggest to put the other test lead to the battery post because of the surface charge the battery has, we use the Voltage Difference technique by getting the difference of the most positive side to the most negative side.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

The technique I show is in parallel - just extended to include the entire circuit path. This allows me to narrow down the side with the fault in two measurements.

[@baburejaz]

Many thanks to you for your educational videos about troubleshooting auto electrical issues. You have a great aptitude to teach in a very simple flow and manner. Thank you very much. Sincerely Babur Ejaz

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you! I appreciate your taking the time to share that.

[@riccotexture8379]

Ty clear&concise very informative be blessed

[@tonychandler8908]

I have got more help out of watching these training sessions and I have been a Teck for 43 in a dealership

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thanks! Comments like yours mean a lot to us!

[@johnlenoir1023]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and teaching these videos are making it a lot easier for me to try to understand how some of these readings can be and I have seen other videos on using and oscilloscope which I have recently purchased and I'm trying to learn thank you

[@jamesdepaul3410]

Great clear explanation

[@apegues]

To all Techs. out there, inspect the circuit and watch for people “Tapping into” the circuit downstream of the fuse to power another component. ex… fancy LED lighting, add-on accessories etc…

[@Duke_of_Prunes]

The last two used cars I bought had parasitic wiring that kept factory lights from functioning. The first caused intermittent headlights and the second was the turn signals. God only knows what the taps and abandoned wiring once went to!

[@procharger94]

Excellent video and clear explanation.

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Thank you!

[@apegues]

Great video Pete, I love watching these, I’m always learning something new and the rest is a great refresher

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Great to hear!

[@gregscheyd4131]

THANKS PETE ; NICE , VERY NICE AND HELPFUL !!!!

[@MotorAgeMagazine]

Glad it was helpful to you. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@pantelis241]

Gold Bless Pit, great informations thank you very much.🙏

[@selvamg635]

Well explained as usual. Please continue your educational video

[@MukeshSingh-xy7cz]

Excellent sir enjoyed every bit of your lecture.

[@griffer695]

Great video sir! Detailed information 👌

[@smms1276]

Second Time Watching This, Well Done 👍 👍.. Thank You

[@paulloomis6734]

As always great information. Keep it up.