Motorcycle Rim Repair: It's how you look playing the game! Part 1

[@JoggingWithForks]

three and a half hours worth of uploads in one day. you're spoiling us Mr. Fenner

[@HWPcville]

Hi Keith. I am just so impressed with your skill! I'm not uninformed with machining and its capabilities but most of the projects you undertake and complete I would have thought were beyond repair. Your range of knowledge and ability is beyond compare in my book. Thanks for sharing your work with us.

[@BruceBoschek]

Another excellent tutorial! I loved watching the way the chips came out of that big drill bit evenly on both sides.

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

Thank you for your generous need to share! It's going to take some time to absorb your videos! I really appreciate your sharing, the more we share, the more it goes around, you share with me, I'll share with others, they share, it all goes around. Thanks again Best wishes, Matthew

[@KeithDDowning]

Fantastic Keith! Great, real world, project. Great presentation. Great instruction for us newbies. Looking forward to the rest of it.

[@jhfenderr1]

Dear Keith Thanks for taking the time to actually explain what you are doing and the reason why I'm an electrician by trade but am facinated By the machining process and am saving up for a mini lathe to learn and teach myself With someone like you i know i won't be in the dark so to speak Thanks again John from new York

[@bigunone]

Wow talk about bringing back memories. Back in the 80s a friend of mine was building a top fuel bike. we made the rear hub out of a piece of steel that had been cut out of 6 inch plate. He had an Enco lath out in a tin shed, he would set up the cuts and I would watch while he would read what ever car magazine we had bought while drinking a beer. When the cut would end I would back the tool out. Max would reset it, and I got to read and drink. Good times even though it was cold at night.

[@royreynolds108]

I saw this done in the shop of the Huckleberry RR in MI. Made new axles for narrow gauge wheelsets out of standard gauge axles. The length and diameters were machined. The area the "brass" bearing rides is turned to +2thou. A smooth hardened roller is in the toolpost set to parallel the work. The lathe is running at the slowest speed. The roller is brought in contact with the work, oil is brushed on while the roller is advanced by the crossfeed until the steel is upset to produce a smooth

[@ssgmasoner]

I especially like how you take the time to make explanatory asides such as how you demonstrated finding your center height, making it much easier and faster to set up new tools. I'll be incorporating that into my own practice. Thanks much for the practical tips as you go.

[@ch408w1]

I paused this in the middle to go mark my 6" scale rule to the center of my current tool bit !!!!! Thanks for the tip !!!

[@gexas38]

Keith, i'm a new subscriber and I love all your projects. Please keep up the good work. Myself, father and uncle are all diy weekend warriors when it comes to machining stuff. Your videos have helped us out so much and i deeply appreciate your great work. Keep it up and i'm excited to see the outcomes of the "what's in your box" contest.

[@KeithFenner]

It is really two kinds of sharing, the experience of and the concept of the sharing itself! Thanks for the comment. ;{)---

[@schneidp20]

Thanks again Keith. It's a customer so you need to be diplomatic, but that was one sick looking sprocket! Worn out sprocket, wobbling hub ... it could have ended ugly! At least we are only talking about damaged goods.

[@thisoldguy64]

enjoy watching your videos, you are very interesting to watch working and not taken short cuts. really nice work. thanks for the videos.

[@GoodtimesDJsoundtech]

As shopdogsam would say "Ohh.... this is gunna be a good one"!!! Great work Keith!!!

[@outsidescrewball]

Thank you, your verbal and visual instruction is something you cannot learn from reading....

[@artgoat]

Good tip on measuring the height. I think I'll machine a gauge bar for my lathe. What I have been measuring off of is the point of a center in the tailstock. I figure if that's centered enough to drill with, it's centered enough for a tool.

[@aryesegal1988]

I can't say that enough, THANK YOU, Keith! :) I enjoyed this video series!

[@sewyongheng559]

I've been spending hours sitting here watching your videos, man it's amazing how you make all the repairs seem so easy, great works. In this video @ 13:24 you showed a big nut in your cutting fluid can to weight it down, you probably can do better with a piece of magnet in there to keep it steady, heck, even on an incline! Try that out.

[@KeithFenner]

Hi John, My lathe is a Clausing Cholchest 17" thanks for the comment and welcome aboard! ;{)---

[@KeithFenner]

Well for the most part I was just cruising along! Thanks for the comment on the inserts, I may pick some up, if ever I get a lengthy aluminum job in house, most of my work is repair! I could of ground a chip breaker into it also. ;{)---

[@MaxDJsWorkshop]

Many thanks for posting your work. I found you from MrPete. I've been doing some hobby metal work myself over the past year or so, not my real profession so I've got a lot to learn, and your presentation style is really helpful. Cheers from Melbourne Australia.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the suggestion, Merry Christmas ;{)---

[@royreynolds108]

surface, then the lead screw is engaged adding oil between the roller and work until the area is smooth. This produces almost a mirror finish. The "brass" is a brass casting coated with a bearing surface of babbit. In modern times this would be a roller bearing. Hope this helps.

[@sneakystaffie]

Hi Keith, just a small tip I thought I would mention ( you probably already know it ) is to install 3 bearings on the face of the chuck in between the jaws and sit the aluminium bar on them, then tighten the chuck. It achieves very good alignment provided the end of the work piece is fairly square. I hope some of the folks out there can use this :)

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

Nice work. I miss my machine shop days.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment and Merry Christmas back your way! ;{)---

[@bruneprune]

Your the man Keith! Hope to see more of your projects in the new year. How about something on making a good set of angle plates on the vertical mill?

[@calijan]

i like the big drills! we have them up to 60 millimeter in diameter. greets from germany!

[@panchovilla1486]

You are a great teacher thank you for the video

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment and welcome aboard! The tool chest give away is going to start off the new year with a bang! ;{)---

[@GNiessen]

Big drill made you some nice curls for your Christmas Tree.

[@eiclan]

Gday Kieth,Just a quick note for your students about cutting speed.Cutting speed changes with diametre.For a set RPM the cutting speed increases with with the diametre of the work. So when Kieth was facing that large piece of aluminium ,the cutting speed changed from inside to out and vice versa.Eg At the centre start the material passes the tool quite slowly but as the tool moves out the speed of the material moves past the tool much faster and that is one reason the finish inconsistent. Cheers

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment and passing on some good info! ;{)-----

[@KeithFenner]

Yes the HSS, is my go to, most the time with aluminum, once in awhile a positive rake carbide can give clean cuts. ;{)---

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Yeah. I didn't think of that. Trying to machine the just the tops of the last pass would just moosh the metal around and make a mess. Like when using a drill bit of the next size up to widen a hole just a bit - you'd get more friction wear than actual cutting. It just clicked in my mind that what Keith does with the file is knocking down those ridges to the minor diameter accomplishing the same thing with less work :)

[@TheOtherBill]

7 Parts! An early Christmas present from Keith :) Thank you!

[@shopdogsam]

,,, and this was a good one"!!,, very good!,, now on to the next one,,

[@silviomane]

Hi Keith ... Mery Cristmas and a Happy New Year full of very good work and videos... Madeira Island fan of good precision machining.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment! ;{)---

[@markrich3271]

@ 8:55 loosen the 3 jaw slightly and run the QCTP right up against the stock that will get you very close. I know thats a nono and bad but I do it constantly . I also have a bar with a bearing on it to touch off on the side . As I see it anything in 3 jaw territory is only good for onesy twoesy work so ...

[@KeithFenner]

Well a single thread, even if you engaged it on any # or of the same mark, follows the same path and the spring cut is the same on any one of the engagements. Two or more leads have to a split between the #'s and lines for two or double leads, three thread leads can easily be made by turning a center in a three jaw chuck and staggering the dog one thread per jaw location. note; don't forget to divide the amount of thread leads into the pitch to set the timing & travel on screw! ;{)------

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment, on the list as I say! ;{)-----

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, I prefer this method, couple pros over using the centers; you can't always use a center in the middle of the job because you’re using the center, to hold your part and most centers are blunt on the end and eye ball on a scale is much closer! ;{)---

[@JeffGeee]

Hey now Shopdog! I found both You and Kieth from good ole Mrpete222. Let me wish all three of you a happy holiday from Nor-Cal Sparky

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, they are and I love them, hope to get another pair on the 25 th! ;{)---

[@bx2200]

As you and others have already noted, that big taper-shank drill cuts beautifully. How did you sharpen it? Do you have some sort of fixture? Perhaps in a future video you can demonstrate how to go about sharpening big bits like that.

[@bx2200]

On another one of your videos, you showed how to cut internal threads on the far side of a bore using a left-hand bit and the spindle in reverse. Why isn't that the standard technique for boring, too, since it makes it much easier to see what's happening in the bore? (Although NOT for lathes with threaded spindles/chucks) Thanks, as always, for the clear explanations.

[@PeteyPeteee]

this is great for chilling out too..

[@rsmaddog1]

hi I am new to engineering and I have learned a lot from you thank you I am going to do some milling a slot in cast iron steam engine cylinder block what end mill do you recommend shod I use 2 3 or 4 flute end mill thanks for all your videos

[@Fresc222]

Extra clearance for the toolbit. A little high with a boring bar is ok, being too low isn't.

[@KeithFenner]

No, I haven't but use it in my Enco saw that I just set up! ;{)---

[@KoolBreeze420]

I want to steal all the scrap aluminum, so I can sell it with my cans. lol That drill bit is very large.After watching many of your videos what I find most curious and wonder about, is why was that machine setup with needing other tools to move it to various positions? You seem to need a variety of wrenches just to make what seems to be quick adjustments that probably could have been solved using some sort of dial or handle.

[@ponkkaa]

Nice vid, but I don't do the waiting thing well.(being from NYC) (so hurry up, this stuff is great) no pressure...

[@theessexhunter1305]

Like your work....just get a nice spanner for the tool post nut!! please..... Personally I would never face the billet when a hole is going to be bored in the job.. Tim

[@rsmaddog1]

yes it is the regulator cavity and it is a blind bottom so I will use a 2 flute thanks very much

[@briantoblerone9625]

I would love to know were to find drill bits that cut like the ones Keith uses. Every bit I've tried; no matter if their "Titanium, Super hardened, Longer lasting, NASA graded, Industrial strength and of course Heavy duty" cuts like they're old bits used from building the Titanic.

[@grafton261]

did anyone else notice the HSS bit was on its side when he first starts on the billet ? was taught to mount it different to What he has

[@billdlv]

Keith great tips on the lathe setup. Looking forward to the rest of the series. Do you prefer HSS vs a carbide insert tool when working with aluminum?

[@KeithFenner]

Some times I keep and sometimes I throw away! Are you near by or are we going to have to ship them, shop is to small to collect piles! ;{)---

[@kingoftaurus]

What do you do with all the shavings? Some of them look like quite the art form.

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Hi Keith. Got a goofy question for ya. In regards to getting a gloss cut: I imagine that machining and facing is like cutting really really tiny threads. Do you (or would it make sense to) engage the feed screw 180 degrees out when making your spring cuts so that the bit is riding the top of the thread evenly for a smoother finish? Like double threading I guess. I can't really describe what I am thinking without crayons :/

[@rank899]

hi. The shop where i work we do a lot of aluminum parts and we have special inserts for doing it, they are only for alu and it makes a very nice surface. I dont think they cost more than the regular inserts so i thought you might wanted to try them out as well. also i noticed that your tool depth was small and feed was slow, is that just to be gentle on your lathe or what? I just like it when Im feeding fast and getting those small chips. looking forward to watch the rest of the series - Rasmus

[@That_Teal_fummins]

25:28 pretty awesome shot!!!!

[@thebrokenbone]

oh man i don`t want to see the chain that was used in that sprocket. a flying chain can ruin your race day...not to mention the cases... (who`s pointing at me? haha). thanks for sharing your work. Pete

[@SlowEarl1]

very cool !! You said you used to race what kind of bike?

[@KeithDDowning]

Keith - Why are you going above center with the boring bar? Curious minds (and newbies) want to know. Is it a cutting angle thing, finish thing...? Thanks.

[@KeithFenner]

Check out the video; It's all about drilling. ;{)-----

[@simonp347]

for centering the bit, do you actually prefer this ruler method than using the tail stock dead/live center?

[@nappaa]

It's been a while since your comment, so sorry for the thread necromancy (haha, see what I did there?). Are you talking about using the threading function to do normal cutting, with the lead screw instead of feed screw, (in Wikipedia's terms)? Because the feed screw is not indexed and will engage just where ever in relation to the last pass. Also in any practical scenario I can think of the bit would be taking way too light of a cut and rubbing on the part making the finish even worse.

[@KeithFenner]

if it is a keyway, blind on the bottom, I'd use a two flute, if it is open bottom like a slot, a four flute. ;{)---

[@dorothydale4683]

Kieth, how do you know what alloy that old piece is? thanks, Rod

[@GRMS_Ian]

Apart from the other valuable discussion, I like the idea of "tuning" the tool tip height by checking for the disappearing tit ... Solid tip; another arrow in the quiver. Thanks Keith

[@MrCWH5]

I think your right, I'm on hour 6 or 7 atleast.

[@Bowtie41]

I HATE stringy a$$ chips.I'm sure you are like me and have way more HS bits than you'll ever use in your lifetime.I was curious why you didn't put a nice new radius on the nose,and a little notch right behind it to make a chip break.Woulda made the finish awesome and take no time to do.You get a -1 for being lazy that day,lol.Great job as always!

[@denniswilliams8747]

Is the MC wheel driven by a high HP engine? Maybe you need more than 4 bolt in the hub to wheel area.

[@newandoldtech5634]

+Dennis Williams Exactly my first thought. How much does the bike put out?

[@wingarcher]

Are those Duluth work pants?

[@bikerpap1969]

hey Keith what do you do with your junk bearings would you be willing to save some up and sell them I want them to make junk art up as a hobby and don't want to use good ones for what I use them for please let me know and if you know of anyone else that would have some thank you

[@mtt849]

what kind of lathe do you have?

[@gentharris]

2024 is a lot stronger and machines even better but more money

[@KeithFenner]

That was made from a 6061 T-6 round. ;{)-----

[@MrJohnnaz]

The most watched Lathe in America..... :o)

[@Ricopolico]

Keith, did you ever try kerosene instead of AlumiTap? An old timer turned me on to kerosene for aluminum many years ago and I never looked back. Smells like shit, of course, but it gets 'er done.

[@dougspair]

Is that a chunk of extrusion billet, 6063 perhaps? And yes, that sprocket is pretty sorry looking.

[@KeithFenner]

Most are headed to waist management and some are sold for scrap. ;{)-----

[@madisonelectronic]

:58, some guys squeeze a nickel so hard the buffalo hollars.

[@fpreston9527]

Big powerful bikes 180mph. Chain brakage = broken crancases, rear wheel, swingarm and possibly death. If you don't loose your life, you may wish you had !

[@Romegyptian]

Ahh! Those aluminum turning curls :D

[@neilbarker5003]

Sprocket bolts (6) to long, jacked the outboard bearing carrier out. The marks can be seen on the four bolt face. Bad mechanic work.

[@georgesmillion3131]

Honte à celui qui avait fait ce montage !!!!! Georges

[@mdsazz8486]

Hello there! Thanks for sharing! Since you are on the topic of motorcycle; have you thought about " Vidadsmedia Two Wheeler Supply Review " (just google it)? My BFF had some dealings with them and was impressed by their incredible customer service.

[@pierrecorcessin7571]

md sazz ki

[@mozzmann]

That is the most disgusting sprocket state I have ever seen, I used alloy sprockets when I was racing too because it was easier on the chain etc, alloy rear steel front. This racer didn't check the drive line very regularly at all.

[@fpreston9527]

I would give these wheels back to the owner without touching them. He obviously doesn't have any common sense

[@supermandav]

Walter white