Motorcycle Rim Repair: It's how you look playing the game! Part 2

[@clydeperrine2959]

Your bearing book had footnotes at the bottom of the page saying that for softer metals like aluminum you should use tighter tolerences.

[@deathvalleyalex9485]

I have not been in the same room as the machines in your shop since high school shop classes . I did gain a basic understanding of the different operations . We won't talk about how long ago that was ! LOL . You're a much better instructor than I had back then ! Well done sir .

[@outsidescrewball]

Great snap gage instruction, discussion about old machines, checking/rechecking, and being true to yourself on your readings......

[@AlchemistLair]

Never had anyone teach me to use snap guages, but now I know the correct way!! Thanks for the lesson!!!

[@SteveDohertyCA]

Thanks Keith, for the effort you put into all your videos. The entertainment and education you provide are invaluable. Looking forward to the video about inside micrometer barrel adjustments. Have a Merry Christmas.

[@PetterPJ3W]

I bought a box of mixed drill bits and tools on E-Bay recently, Keith and found a Starrett internal micrometer among them. Only I didn't know what it was until I watched this vid. Thanks for enlightening me!

[@KeithFenner]

They are used to obtain a uniform setting, each time you measure something, most tools lacked them when I started and all the experience becomes or creates a uniform feel! You could use the ratchet as a sample for blinded feel testing. Compare your feel measurement to the ratchet measurement! Thanks for the comment ;{)---

[@Bowtie41]

I noticed in your bearing book that the dimensions in the tables are for cast iron,and at the bottom of the page it says for Aluminum and soft metals go .0005/.0010 smaller.HD and full screen are great!!,lol

[@SlowEarl1]

Thanks to you I just realized I have been useing snap gage wrong.Thanks for your great videos Keith.

[@davewood406]

Awesome so far. With all the whys and hows, I know I will give this series a replay or two. Not that I don't already do that :)

[@kingmike40]

To find the bottom of the bore, so you don't ram the tool, place the boring bar to the bottom without machine running wrap some tape around the bar and stop at the same location each cut. Being doing it that way for 20 years and it works great. This works as long as the depth isn't critical. If you are trying to hit thousands than use a dro or dial indicator.

[@KeithDDowning]

Good stuff Keith. Thanks for the tips on the snap gages.

[@GRMS_Ian]

Another bunch of interesting content. Thanks Keith.

[@Bowtie41]

Another great vid!I'm sure you know but others may not.When I'm working in alum,I stone a .005-.010 radius on the tool,and backfeed on the final cut.It eliminates any "drag-out" marks,and leaves a mirror finish,especially important in a press-fit bearing situation.Having a "thready" finish on a bearing bore usually means when the bore is burnished smooth by the bearing,it could be oversize at the major diameter of the surface,exagerrated kinda like mashing of a thread.Hope this helps others!

[@KeithFenner]

Hi Greg, I had no dought it would work just fine for you, I would like to see a glimpse of that when you get it made! ;{)---

[@KeithFenner]

I don’t know a single sole that has ever tried to part off a piece of steel in the lathe and hasn’t jammed, snapped or shattered a blade or two! I showed that because I want you all to know that you can’t just walk up to any machine and use it the same way you used another. Each machine has its own character. A negative rake to the top of the bit will create a push rather than a sucking bit! A very slight lower relief clearance angle on the nose, limits the amount of advancement. ;{)---

[@KeithFenner]

I never cared for bore gages, not that they aren’t cool and I have used them in making monel pump sleeves, back in the yards, but they were long sleeves and the gage seemed to be nice to reach in with! I have a set of gage blocks and standards that cover my tool collection up to 12”. ;{)---

[@georgesmillion3131]

De très bonnes explications et un très bon travail ! Georges

[@jayphilipwilliams]

Love that old book.

[@gdglock]

Keith, The South Bend Shaper is working well in its new shop! Maybe I will make a video of it cutting an internal gear. Thanks again, Greg

[@hydrator1]

Hi keith hopeing you & your family have a great xmas and new year really do enjoy your vidios learn something every time even if I didnt want to ha ha .................

[@tylerstewart1471]

Hi Keith, I love your videos. I always feel like I've been placed in an apprenticeship and I didn't even know it. I don't get that anywhere else really... I can always count on Adam for some heavy turning, or OxTools for metrology, but those guys just don't do all the stuff you do in your shop. Don't mean to down anyone. I subscribe to a LOT of channels.

[@uberente]

monster. keep it up, brother.

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, as asked prior, I always just go for the max plus on aluminum! ;{)---

[@lwilton]

Re lathe carriage slop: Back in the 1940s my father owned a machine shop that made precision tooling. I recall him telling me that some of the better lathes had "split split nuts" and split follower nuts. They were built in two sections and you could tighten up a setscrew between the halves of the nut as the nut and screw wore to keep the backlash out. Of course it didn't help if the screw was worn unevenly, but the brass nuts usually wore the most. I don't know if it will apply to your lathe (I'm guessing not as you have probably had it apart down to the last setscrew), but if you haven't replaced stuff since this video, maybe it will be of some use.

[@KeithFenner]

l wilton Thanks for the comment. I would be looking for that just as it has been in so many machines that I have repaired over the years. ;{)-----

[@eiclan]

Gday Kieth,Talking about play in the slides,I have just retired and have been working with machines from the 1920,1930and 1970s.Theses machines are worn but as a note to your students,if you are winding out to a mark,go a turn or two passed and wind back in this will take up the slack and ensure you are accurate.If you making many widgets put a mark with a sharpie so as to not go too far.The 1970s machine could stay between 18.996 and 19.000 mm and it had 10 mm of slop.just be aware.cheers Ross

[@TheDNRMedia]

Awesome videos Sir, thank you very much

[@JOHN27398]

HI yes i do watch your vids allot ty.

[@KeithFenner]

A good practice is to ask a bud to come over and give his feel, trade off, two people will always have somewhat of a different feel but both you can compare the feel at each of the measurements established. Your own compared feels, mic's or snaps, should be within tenths or equivalent in MM’s, I had to add that! To each other or one or the other! You’re feel develops with experience and expectations. ;{)---

[@62346]

These are great Keith, thanks! How much variation can you get when mic..ing a snap gage....you know, with your "feel"; tight, loose, first contact? Thanks again for these! Dave

[@joeretro]

Hi Keith, great lesson on sneaking up on a number. I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who finds accurately measuring an ID challenging. Good tips on snap guages and double checking measurements. I notice a note at the bottom of the page in your bearing fit book saying that aluminum housings should be fit .0005-.001 tighter than steel or iron. Did you figure this in? Thanks, I'm a big fan of your channel.

[@KeithFenner]

Use positive geometry on tool, even sometimes having to us HSS, if speed and feeds are to slow to spin. If it is a deep bore and balling chips create a chip breaker. only guessing without knowing exact issue. ;{)---

[@ja7085]

Nice, I have a 17" voest I picked up about 1 year ago. It took me a few months just to get it wired up in the garage (new 50 AMP circuit/breaker laid with 6/2 romex...) I love working with it when I can find the time. Night and day difference from a 9" south bend. I'm guessing you have an L0 spindle taper on yours as well? I'm looking for a 5C collet closer for mine and have hit a wall.

[@simonp347]

Hi Keith, Merry Christmas! Don't you have carriage stop for this lathe? I found that incredibly handy when doing dead-end internal boring like this piece

[@Teunbaartman1]

Hi Keith Again a huge learning experience. Just now, I have learned how to properly use snap gages. I never see you use the ratchet on micrometers, are they useless or just meant for the unexperienced like me. Kind Regards, Teun

[@ChrisFiggatt]

Keith, I was surprised to see that your crossfeed nut has that much backlash in it. I've got a old Sheldon Sebastian 13"x36" lathe that has about the same amount of backlash and I can't part off a part worth a crap! I always figured that it was becasue the backlash in the nut but now I'm thinking that maybe something is wrong with my tool grind or tool height. I'm just using a plane old HS parting tool set at zero on height and squared to the chuck jaws. Any ideas?

[@gbowne1]

Most gaging and measuring is completely by feel. Always try and verify your measurements with different methods.

[@SWLAMECH84]

Keith, I'm trying to bore some DOM tubing and I'm having some issues with surface finish. I've got a couple of videos about it. Do you have any suggestions ?

[@KeithFenner]

You may have to modify a unit off another make or size lathe ;{)---

[@DL5FS]

i have question for the part of 19:00, you say you know the machine that you working the lathe has a play in the compound and show how much it is, i thought you moving the hole machine ! if its not lookd or all the time? i would provide a close connection thank you

[@KeithFenner]

There is always a difference in every position, room temperature etc. but not always to an extent of variations, ill effecting the task of measuring most general machining, in my opinion. ;{)-----

[@gentharris]

I like to use snap gauges and inside mikes verticaly in a lathe bore so gravity isn't affecting things? Do you think this makes any difference?

[@KeithFenner]

It is a 17" Clausing Colchester ;{)---

[@chronokoks]

This video somehow made me feel inadequate. I'll be turning pieces of almost the same diameter but just 2,5 inches in length on my soon to be CNC 10x22 mini lathe (with a 1hp 3phase motor) ... something just does not feel right when I see such a big machine to chew on such a "little" piece i'll be doing on a 290 lb mini lathe lathe .. i guess it's my ego :P

[@bogreene1]

nice to backout while boring back lash purposes right?

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks ROTFLMAO, seems they need to work on translating my language, not English, not southern, not down eastern, too far from the west! Shop Talk! LOL ;{)---

[@ja7085]

What size and model lathe are you using?

[@RockinGuy1994]

Make sure you got some hair around that hole LOL

[@KeithFenner]

Not on this lathe! Carriage stops, are a great feature if a lathe has them. ;{)---

[@dragonrc0]

Lol, it says you are an "Enzyme Extremist" (inside machinist)

[@BarnyardEngineering]

Keith if you're in need of a laugh, turn on closed captioning.

[@MrStandup2p]

Oh I'd say you've been to college