Motorized Ultra Short Throw Projector Shelf - DIY under $200

[@TheHookUp]

All of my projector recommendation videos have been updated for 2023-2024: Best Sub $100 Budget Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/paCpp6yrmcerhKc Best $100-$600 Midrange Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp65iZJobsyLfqc Best Portable Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJ7QeISFiKaFm6s Best Modern Laser Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXzQfKljibl8h7M Best Ultra Short Throw Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5eTpYGgfKmihbc Best Premium Home Theater Projectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipvKiZmIgtmgibc Best Gaming Projector: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJq7gZqjYtWrn7c Best Golf Sim Projector: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWWViGNoiquSpKs Best UST Projector Screens: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJObgYuQqbFkp5o

[@DaveMorris128]

That Venn diagram preamble alone deserves a Like.

[@ConnerHall]

Man... You quite literally have the same wavelength of thought as what I need. Been coming back here for years. Every time I have an inconvenience involving home asisstant, or my next project I want to expand upon, youre there already with a DIY. solution. Love it.

[@_MrEB]

Hey Rob, this is gonna be my project for the beginning of 2024! i just bought a Hisense PX1-Pro and will install it on the ceiling. I´m adapting your idea to a hanging shelf! let´s see what i achieve. Thanks for inspiring people Rob, keep it up!

[@aycoxjp]

I don’t understand most of what you talk about. But I enjoy the way you show how things are done and the extra work you put into your videos.

[@tjmarx]

I completely appreciate that all of your measurements are in metric.

[@Zolli07]

OMG, it's really cool, but is more cool to watch an American man uses metric units. My jaws was dropped :D

[@CampfireCrucifix]

You'll love Project Farms then.

[@TheHookUp]

Didn't seem right to be using all metric fasteners and 2020 aluminum and then give the measurements in inches.

[@danielvrhovac5519]

Now I noticed that it's only working with an alexa eco dot. I actually don't have one. Is it possible to use the mobile phone or so?

[@IkariAin]

OMG, this is gold Soo much apreciation por sharing all the tools, coding and all in all, the everything it needs to complete this project

[@DethpickleDave]

Yada yada yada bare foot power tool usage yada yada... Perfect timing on the sponsor. I'm giving that a try for keeping an eye on the new shed. Thanks!

[@TheHookUp]

*Florida Shoes.

[@ivailodjilianov3238]

Wow, I'll probably never complete a project of that complexity on my own but I've learned so much from this video (and the previous one)! Amazing work!

[@rndmlogin]

Nice video! I think this is defiantly something a tinkerer can tackle! You have laid out all the parts of the project(and actual parts) very well. IThanks!

[@andrewlhoover]

Nice run-through on tasmota stepper configuration. I didn't realize it did that!

[@TheHookUp]

It requires a special compile, so not quite as user friendly as most tasmota configs, but nice that it works!

[@GlennPierce]

@@TheHookUp What was the recompile for ? Could you not have defined the GPIO with templates ?tasmota.github.io/docs/Templates/

[@TheHookUp]

Templates are only for assigning GPIOs, you can't assign the GPIOs of a stepper driver unless the binary was compiled with the stepper motor functionality included: tasmota.github.io/docs/A4988-Stepper-Motor-Controller/ There is a template in the description for this specific project, but it requires the correct .bin

[@babylonfive]

i love these videos, even when I don't need the function or application.

[@marccourt8264]

Thanks for the video. I made the shelf, instead of the stepper motor I used a Aqara blind controller.

[@jeucedahn]

Thanks a lot Rob! I really missed this kind of videos!

[@ve2tax]

This is a very good video just the way I like them, to the point, very instructive and inspiring! I might just venture into steps motors now that I have an idea how to set it up thanks to you. Thanks again and keep up the good work!

[@OBD01]

Thanks again for doing all the hard stuff and making it easy for us!

[@markday3145]

I really enjoy this type of video, even though I don't think I'll ever build it (or probably anything like it) -- much like I enjoyed watching The New Yankee Workshop even though I've never done woodworking. I am mechanically challenged. Watching videos like this gives me a little background that I hope I will be able to use some day. And they give me a little more confidence that the mechanical part of a project might not be as daunting as I fear. Some day I'd like to do a project involving a microcontroller and mechanical stuff (stepper, servo, etc.), even if only as a fun learning experiment.

[@FrankGraffagnino]

man... this video is scratching all my itches... love projects like this

[@hajunkie5820]

great video gives me ideas for many other class scenarios with the stepper.

[@privado992]

Great video!! Already set my stepper motor and I'm going to make the shelf!! Thank you a lot!!!

[@TheHookUp]

Try changing the order of the cables connected from the stepper driver to the stepper motor.

[@privado992]

@@TheHookUp First time ever using electronics and I have everything working! I´m just waiting for the new cabinet to install, can´t wait!! One silly question, can you tell me how can I add a physical switch? And is there a way for this setup to know if its open or close? I mean, if it´s already opened, don´t try to open and don´t try to close if it's already closed?

[@privado992]

@@TheHookUp kzbin.infoLzAlm6dv2y0

[@AussieInSeattle]

more of these type of videos please.

[@sf23pair55]

As a woodworking American, but also a scientist, I'm proud you have the courage to use metric. I'm still imperial in my shop :(

[@hintzgh]

I built and got it all working, pretty sweet. The only issue i have is that no matter what I do the power going to the WiFi unit requires it to get additional power from a USB. I'm not sure if it is an underpowered power supply or the resister is not needed, I even installed separate resisters for each line and same issue.

[@cyberdave17]

Thanks for doing DIY videos, always some of your finest work. 👍

[@matusmodern3586]

This is awesome. I wish some companies would sell shelf attachment like this or sell a decent console with a sliding or roll top.

[@TheHookUp]

There's actually a retail version of this shelf now that looks curiously similar to the one I've built. It's around $500: www.projectorscreen.com/spectra-projection-slider-ust-ultra-short-throw-projector-sliding-tray-for-laser-tv-projectors.html?af=hookup-af

[@matusmodern3586]

@@TheHookUp Oh thanks man! That will make shopping for a console a lot easier. I have to find something that looks good (aka fiancé approved) and can slide out my short throw projector. Thanks for the link.

[@finestpix]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for the heads up. The item is on sale for $379. I was ready to tackle this project even though I knew it was going to kick my butt, but at $379 it is a no-brainer.

[@videodave1]

I plan on making notorized cover for my new VAVA

[@videodave1]

Opps motorize

[@danielvrhovac5519]

Thanks for the Video! I hope I'll get the programming part done. I will only use the motor components and mounted directly to the shelf from the furniture(with a few changes). Somehow I didn't see how you give the opening and closing command.

[@NECTUNT-lj9jz]

Great video, very hands-on. But our NECTUNT retractable TV stand looks good, is pure metal, and retails for less than $300.

[@omegafire6253]

I just made one for mine from scratch recently, with similar pull out functionality only it's manual and projector is on top.

[@stang70man]

Oh no! Once again, you've set my brain on fire! I don't have a projector, but now I want to say, "Alexa/ok Google, open the silverware drawer!" 😆 Thank you for all the great, brain exploding videos!!!

[@shaneduffy4853]

Very good content thanks - I built a TV turner a few years back with an ESP8266 connected to smart things using a linear actuator on pivots behind a 75” TV to turn it to face different viewing angles in the room. I might redo it with a D1 Mini and tasmoto for a bit more future flexibility after watching this video

[@TheHookUp]

It's crazy how flexible tasmota is these days.

[@LastNow]

I want something like this for my sound bar shelf been racking my brains for 4 weeks and nothing yet. Soft close slides are too long and no one seems to make anything that will do exactly this for a 46L X 9D shelf. I wish you sold this made to fit way to complicated to do on my own. But cool and exactly what I've been searching for.👍

[@daviddavidsonn3578]

did you use metric units? The world says, THANK YOU! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@Mrcaffinebean]

That is an impressive compact and simple design!

[@badoiucristian4780]

That's absolutely great, on quick question, you mounted the plywood inside the drawer but you could easily modify the design so that it goes over the "side pillars" this way creating a more aesthetic design, would that work ?

[@stogieee_d3627]

Ok. Now I’m inches 😂 going to try this to extend my sonos arc further than my shelf

[@mattgriffiths6154]

Thank you - I used your design to hide and reveal my projector in a floating cabinet that sits just below my screen. I automated it using Home Assistant so it operates when my Denon Receiver is powered on / off and - super pleased with it. While I have no intention of moving house I know its unlikely that the next owners are not going to want to have maintain a Home Automation server to use the projector, so I am wondering if there is a way of adding a on / off button to the ESP8266 or the DRV8825 boards to simulate the MQTT message and activate the stepper motor? thanks!

[@camwing]

Hey, I know it's been a while since you asked this, but did you ever get it figured out? I'm also interested in hooking up a physical button, it would be nice for when I have guests over who want to use my projector.

[@kabturek]

Just add a button to the esp and trigger the rules/ button on keypress. You have to dig into tasmota to hook it up

[@ronm6585]

Nice! Thanks Rob.

[@Sparky_D]

Yay for metric units!

[@PennyAfNorberg]

Yey Metric! and good for the future when we need to change projector.

[@MatSmithLondon]

So I think I'm going to design a motorised shelf to lower a projector out of a ceiling void. We have about 400mm of ceiling void, and the projector is only about 200mm high. My plan is to get a pair of drawer sliders, each one has two fixing points for the front of the drawer, and so I'll mount them either side of the plywood shelf that will drop down, halfway down each side. Trying to decide if I should use two stepper motors near the drawer sliders, and go without any aluminium extrusions, as the stepper motor spindles will be mounted so close to the drawer sliders therefore shouldn't suffer from any side forces that may cause too much friction. OR if I just use the extrusions to create a stronger frame and potentially use a single stepper motor and spindle. Unlike the shelf design here, I can't just place the spindle in the middle of the plywood shelf as there will be a projector on it :) So I could mount it behind the projector, but then there would be a lot of shear force on the spindle, hence thinking about using two either side. So if centre of balance is vaguely in the centre then it will be fine. Any thoughts on this plan?

[@KimmoJaskari]

This seems like a good solve to get a UST installed without a wildly wide media bench. I just wonder how close to the edge of the table top above it the projected image fires. Conventional wisdom for a center speaker (well, wisdom, period) is to have its front edge at the edge of the shelf it sits on. That might be too close for the projected image to sneak past, at least I assume as much. Don't have a UST yet, guess I'll buy one and then figure this out. The easy solve is center inside the furniture but that does get uncomfortably low, to the point where it will affect the sound experience as well.

[@maniek79]

this is what I specifically typed into youtube, thanks for the video

[@AdamsReviews]

Very cool! If I ever get one I will build it!

[@BaseModelBugatti]

Love this. Do yo have service providers that can do this for the DIY challenged in SouthFla? Would love to get this done.

[@VinciCastor]

I think having the list written in description would be helpful. In your Amazon list you wrote M3×4mm screw. But in the video you mentioned M3×5mm. The lead screw is meant to be 500mm but in your list it was 100mm.

[@monstar2bar]

@TheHookUp is there a way to add a USB trigger?

[@nates8075]

I am using the Epson EpiqVision Ultra LS300 Projector. Is it possible for the shelf to automatically move out when the projector is turned on and go back when the projector is turned off?

[@TheHookUp]

There are lots of ways to do that. The easiest would be to use a smart plug to monitor the power consumption of your projector and then use an Alexa routine. If you have home assistant you can also monitor the projector via the android tv integration.

[@fuhhilary4804]

Great Project Rob. I am currently working on it, but MQT cannot connect to the host. What i am doing wrong? I am trying this Germany and I keep getting this : Connect failed to 192.168........, rc -2. Retry in 100 sec

[@TheHookUp]

Do you have an MQTT server?

[@fuhhilary4804]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for the quick response. No i don´t. Which one would you advice me to setup?

[@TheHookUp]

I would recommend just using the Alexa integration like in the video. Just uncheck the MQTT box.

[@fuhhilary4804]

@@TheHookUp Thanks very much. It is working. :)

[@dotnetdevni]

What main cabinet did u use I have the Epson ls 800 b which is wider than most

[@austenmathews2428]

Would it be possible to run this setup with a TMC driver? Is tasmota capable of this or is there another alternative? I'm making a bootleg version of this and would prefer it to be as quiet and fast as possible and I think I can find a middle ground with a TMC driver. The DRV8825 at 16th is definitely slower and louder than I would like. Would prefer an almost silent motion as the drawer comes out.. Any help from anyone would be great.

[@macinons]

Hi, thanks for that impressive video! I am thinking into building the same but to lift a speaker of 5kg (9 pounds). Do you think, this stepped motor can do it? otherwise how much torque should I need? thank you

[@felipepubillones2768]

So no thumbs up if i just came because why not, you expand my home tech knowledge? I'm nowhere on that ven diagram!

[@stogieee_d3627]

I see on the Amazon list when I click on on the link some of the items aren’t the measurements you have listed. I can’t tell what the actual measurement is because it gets cut out of the preview picture. Do you have the parts listed completely somewhere else so I’m sure I’m getting the correct measurements?

[@ConroyGreen]

can i use ESP32 instead of D1 Mini?

[@parekoy]

I have the same projector xgimi aura 4k. Wish i can make the same custom cabinet like u did cos mine is sitting on the floor lol.

[@monstar2bar]

@TheHookUp also I there a way to update it to work with tasmota edge in smartthings?

[@supperka2]

Clever! And usefull as always thanks for video.

[@viniciusnoyoutube]

There are some Tuya window opener that could be more easy to use.

[@TheHookUp]

That's a super interesting idea, I bet it would work! Looks like those things run on RF, so you could use a tasmota RF bridge for automation. Slightly less extension for the version that's 400m wide (only 300mm extension), but overall it would be a pretty slick solution.

[@henryquezada8482]

Can I use the motor with a switch ?

[@slothlovechunk]

You think this would work with under mounted drawer slides?

[@MandalorianFanboy]

I’m going to need to place this on top of my furniture…any idea how much weight this setup can easily move back and forth?

[@AdamAllport]

Great video as usual! Just curious as to why you went down the route of a dummy switch, vs something like "Shutters and Blinds" in tasmota, or the "Cover Component" in EspHome. This would naturally allow you to use end-stops, which would certainly be of benefit after a power-cut, as to avoid the motor stalling after a power-recovery I guess one consideration there would be that homeassistant would by default show/expose it as a blind, as opposed to a simple togglable entity. And it's not like having it half open would be helpful. That being said, I do stand-by the thought of endstops!

[@TheHookUp]

You mean like physical endstops (limit switches)? It would add significant complexity to the wiring without much benefit. With this size stepper and 300rpm you could run a full close cycle with it already closed and it would make unsettling noises but not damage anything. Mostly the same answer for the other questions: Just an attempt to reduce complexity as much as possible.

[@AdamAllport]

@@TheHookUp Ahh, fair enough. Whilst admittedly, I don't have a projector, twould be quite interesting to see where these mechanisms can be used in other applications! All I need now is some inspiration :p

[@reymena7135]

Love this!! Two questions…how can you adjust the speed of the motor so it can open faster? And related, is the opening speed at the top speed of this motor or would you need a bigger motor? I want to use this for a drawer that’s 60 inches wide so would like to size stepper motor properly. Thank you in advance for you insights.

[@TheHookUp]

Speed is limited by the number of threads and thread pitch on the threaded rod. If you increase the size of the motor you may be able to get away with a larger thread pitch and therefore a higher speed.

[@reymena7135]

Thank you for the quick response. So how do you identify a thread count and pitch on a rod?

[@octavian4305]

Do you guys know how I could wire a manual button to open and close this shelf? And what configuration I would need to do?

[@droidhome8558]

Awesome DYI how-to... Did you make some kind of case for the D1 mini setup?

[@Robert-z3p6v]

Hi, could you describe the outputs and manual settings for ESP and Tasmota? I would appreciate it.

[@TheHookUp]

www.thesmarthomehookup.com/diy-motorized-ultra-short-throw-projector-shelf/

[@Robert-z3p6v]

​@@TheHookUp Thank you

[@tonyesquire5308]

I'm happy with my Vividstorm screen on the floor. With my floor being carpet, should there be a concern with placing my AWOL projector on it as well, or should I place it atop something?

[@TheHookUp]

I don’t think there is any ventilation on the bottom of the awol, so as long as you can get it properly leveled I don’t see an issue with it.

[@tonyesquire5308]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for the advice (The Hook Up 👍). I finally received my Vividstorm & AWOL Vision and you are correct, very amazing experience! (I like the Formovie as well, but no 3D ). Until next time 🙌

[@comridor]

Only thing I don’t like about this is screwing directly into the edge of plywood to hold the shelf up. Especially given that it’s holding up several thousand dollars of projector. My experience with plywood is that it’ll work for a while, but eventually the plywood will delaminate from the forces involved and the screws will either pull out or the plywood will tear out. Either way, “suddenly crashing down” is the result. I think it would be a simple modification to add some tiny steel L brackets that allow you to face screw the plywood and then bolt to the rails.

[@tylerkoupal7212]

Is it possible to do this to an existing shelf? I want to do this with the IKEA BESTA hack, but I can't afford the 2 inches that the rails in your video require. The width of the shelf is only 23(5/8) in. Not really experienced in this area at all. :/

[@BoMNB]

Hi, This is an interesting project. Thanks for sharing. I plan to build something similar that is based on your design. One question though. Why do you power everything form a power adapter instead of plugging wemos d1 mini to usb port and then powering the rest from its outputs?

[@TheHookUp]

A USB port can generally only output 500mA, and the power pins on the D1 mini only support 200mA. It would quickly burn up the voltage regulator on the board.

[@redmancrm]

This video inspired me to finally get an ust projector and set it up just like you did. I'm following along with this shelf build, but I used your esphome yaml. I got it running on my bench but I'm wondering, what happens when a kid or my wife inevitably pushes the shelf closed? Or if the motor skips some steps when opening or closing. Seems like the build needs a homing switch to reset the position if something like this happened. Any idea on how to add a home switch to this build? Or do you have a better way to handle that?

[@TheHookUp]

the ESPHome Yaml has a "report stepper position" service that lets you update the ESP with the correct position should it be manually moved.

[@redmancrm]

@@TheHookUp I saw that, I guess there's a way to configure an unused pin for gpio and connect a limit switch to it and have that report_position service called when the switch is pressed. Not sure the syntax for using that service to set it to 0... Do I set the position: to zero in the api section of the yaml?

[@TheHookUp]

@@redmancrm - stepper.report_position: id: my_stepper position: 0

[@moreno55uk]

Hi Rob, I see you have got 380mm of extension, can this be changed to extend further or do you think the UST will be too heavy?

[@viniciusbtorres]

Do you know what is the speed of this engine in rpm?

[@davidwhitaker7408]

Do you sell these? In market for UST projector but to maximize the size, not realistic to have media center 1-2 feet away from the wall. So this is a nice solution to move it away from the screen just when you are ready to watch TV.

[@MaximAvs]

Could you somehow use the screen trigger on the projector to send a signal to the motorized shelf?! LOVE THIS CHANNEL!!!

[@TheHookUp]

I use the state of the projector. Basically home assistant monitors whether the androidTV is on the network, and if it is it pulls out the projector drawer and raises the screen. Once the projector state goes to "off" it lowers the screen and puts the projector away.

[@AMarti2]

@@TheHookUpi'd imagine using an I/O pin on the controller to watch for 5 V from the trigger would work. Can that be added to the compiled bin file?

[@phongvcao]

@The Hook Up Nice video and channel. What do you think about trend in local storage Doorbells (both NVR & SD-Card only)? I'm talking about the likes of Eufy Doorbell, Unifi G4, Amcrest, Hikvision PoE Doorbell, Vivint, etc.? What are the best locally-recording doorbells (both HW and SW including packages detection, etc.)? I'm willing to pay for a video with this topic, since doorbells are usually the first intro to home camera surveillance for most people I know, and I'm also on the fence on this topic with my new upcoming home.

[@matygrosman284]

Great project, can’t wait to give it a try! Do you happen to have a parts list with quantities included? I haven’t seen any quantities listed on the AZ parts list. Or did I miss it?

[@TheHookUp]

For the parts list they are all quantity x1 since they come in packs.

[@PatrickPretorius]

Would this work to make a screen that lowers down? Is the motor strong enough to hold the weight do you think?

[@TheHookUp]

No, but I did a project like that a long time ago that uses a planetary gear stepper that would work: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZSygGBujcRgiM0

[@PatrickPretorius]

@TheHookUp thank you for the link, the project, and such a fast reply!

[@andraspeshti5395]

Awesome video! Any way to design it so the excursion is more than 11 inches? The Epson LS500B needs to be much further away from the screen to achieve a 120" picture 😬

[@TheHookUp]

Ultimately you are only limited by the length of the lead screw and the rigidity of the drawer slides.

[@andraspeshti5395]

@@TheHookUp Am I correct in assuming that this implies I should get a relatively deep cabinet to begin with? (Since this would be the upper bound for the length of the lead screw if I don't want it to stick out front or back)

[@TheHookUp]

@@andraspeshti5395 Correct

[@ChristopherPinckney]

What do you have the screen sitting on?

[@TheHookUp]

Some furniture that I built a long time ago.

[@wantafastz28]

How would you go about wiring a backup momentary switch?

[@TheHookUp]

From the tasmota web interface go to configuration, configure module and select switch1 for D2, then hook your switch to D2 and GND on the D1mini. That will give you a toggle switch where ON will be projector all the way out and OFF will be all the way in. If you want it to be a momentary button you'd go to the tasmota console and type switchmode1 4

[@wantafastz28]

@@TheHookUp you the man, thanks.

[@ericpatdu]

I tried the guide using a push button latching switch but for some reason, the projector doesn't retract when the switch is turned off. It does go out when pressed. Any guidance on what I could have done wrong?

[@VinciCastor]

I have a problem with the command. After typing motormove 3000 the silver box would move forward. But typing motormove -300 the silver box still moved forward. What other command would make the motor move in reverse?

[@VinciCastor]

Finally got it working. I had to solder the D1 mini as the connections were loose. I got it to move forward and back but encounter a problem after attaching the code in the description.

[@zaneguerrero1081]

How much weight does this shelf hold?

[@TheHookUp]

There are too many factors to answer that definitively like the distribution of the weight and the thickness of the shelf it is being mounted to. My current projector weighs about 25lbs and I haven't had any issues.

[@ericpatdu]

This is so cool. Does the drawer slides have a sag when extended considering that the projector is heavy? If so, do you know how much sag it has?

[@TheHookUp]

The XGiMi sags approximately 1/4", but it's really heavy. The epson LS300 doesn't sag at all.

[@ericpatdu]

@@TheHookUp I actually made one with some modifications by adding braces, using a 2040 on the shorter side and using a heavy duty slide to prevent sag. I haven't installed it yet but I'm planning to bolt it permanently on my console table. I have a few questions since this is my first time doing something like this. Can the motor rpm be increased? If so, by how much? I am estimating that my motormove is around 31,000 so hoping I can speed it up without frying the controller. Also, just realized that the stepper motor is loud. 😁 Another thing is, what happens if the motor stops mid movement? Do I have to manually rotate it back to its starting position? Does pressing on or off twice make you lose your starting/end positions? Sorry for the many questions. 🤣

[@Jocro999]

Excellent Video!!!!!! I got the motor and components working up to the point of Alexa being able to discover it. It wont show up. Any thoughts? Thanks again!!!

[@TheHookUp]

Is your NodeMCU on the same network as your Alexa devices? Do you have any restrictions on that network (like are you using a guest network or VLANs)?

[@Jocro999]

@@TheHookUp My phone and the node are on the same network. No restrictions. I'm using the Alexa app to try and discover.

[@TheHookUp]

I see. I don’t think the alexa app is capable of discovering, you need to have a physical alexa device like a firetv or echo.

[@Jocro999]

@@TheHookUp I tried from my fire tv cube as well. It still did not work. I really appreciate the help.

[@Jocro999]

Do you have any videos on how to add a rf receiver?

[@44jese]

Hey, cool project! but how does that system handle following situation: when moving the self the power goes out, lets say ~halfway on fully in or out. when i think it rebooting i can't think that it remembers the stepper location to return it to "home" or fully open state? correct me if i'm wrong i there's something in the code handling that. (or would this require limit switch to the end(s)? or in this kind of case do you just manually push/pull the shelf to its extreme position by hand?

[@TheHookUp]

You've got a few options: Move the shelf by hand, go to the tasmota console and issue a motormove command for a smaller number of steps, or just issue the full move command. If you issue the full move command it will reach the maximum extension and the motor will start missing steps, which will make a terrible noise, but won't do any damage to the motor or shelf since it's a low torque motor set to high RPM.

[@44jese]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for reply, that helped a lot!😀 another question came in my mind, what if something happens in the network or the software and the motor just keeps going even when it should've got to the ideal end (and mechanics resisting more rotation for the motor)? Can this cause node/driver/motor to heat up and cause fire hazards or smth else that can be an actual problem?

[@TheHookUp]

Tasmota does not need a network connection to control the stepper motor, if it lost network connection it would complete the move and then turn the motor off as normal.

[@44jese]

@@TheHookUp allright, thanks!

[@matthew37641]

Some ideas Air purifier, Air quality montor, blue iris on google TV, matrix switchers, and custom source on the matrix

[@gio0166]

Very nice project, I managed to build one, thank you very much. I do have a question though, I'd like to modify the tasmota setup to get the signal from a usb connected to the projector such that when I switch on the projector the drawer comes out. I have taken a usb from the projector and put a voltage divider such that I get 3.3V. I haven't though figured out how to hook this to D1 mini and make a rule such that when the 3.3 is detected the motor moves X times and when the 3.3 is gone (projector switched off) then it should return back.. any help appreciated thanks George

[@skumartube]

I followed your guide but instead of DRV8825 i used A4988 driver. The motor keeps running in one direction the moment I turn ON. When I press reset button in D1 mini board the motor turns on opposite direction. The tasmota console commands like motormove 20 is not working . Also D1 mini is shown in the router's list of wireless connected devices when I plug USB between D1 & PC. When I unplug the USB from D1, the d1 mini will not shows in list of wireless devices. any suggestions ?

[@TheHookUp]

Sounds like you have the A4988 hooked up incorrectly, re-check the wiring diagram or buy a DRV8825.

[@RixtronixLAB]

Cool video, keep it up, thanks :)

[@Segaton]

Lmao I'm too dumb to program the motors. . Just gonna build the slide out and pull it out manually.... 🤣🤣🤣

[@antreaskonstantinou8585]

Try the best projectors at the 150$-300$ price range

[@TheHookUp]

Coming up in December

[@rahamanshaik]

On a funny note your voice resembles like Kripky character in the Big Bang Theory series ;) as usual great video thanks 😊

[@TheHookUp]

The guy with the lisp? 🤔

[@kappatvating]

Now I have joined

[@MassimoFantinato]

What about hiding the lateral rails with some wood?

[@TheHookUp]

That will absolutely happen, I just wanted to make sure I was done with revisions before I did any more finish work.

[@mingmanhk1]

Should add a light senor so the projector turn on then it will extend the drawer by itself

[@TheHookUp]

I use the projector's smart OS (androidTV) to monitor for power on/off, works great.

[@hudy85]

Hi, i have "command unkown" if i send motormove

[@TheHookUp]

Make sure you used the full version of Tasmota and not some lite or striped down version.

[@denesk2794]

This is awesome. I wonder what happens if you lose power in the middle of opening/closing. E.g. how it is handled when you are stuck at 400 steps into the 900 to extend. Does that esp32 or the motor controller know if you try to over-extend or over-close? I am somehow missing a limit screw from the device. In fact, I am about to (for the last 6 months, but no time) do the same, but will rely on limit switches and a simple DC motor...... but now I am thinking that steppers is the way to go :O as I have a ton of them in my drawer I never actually used. +1: I had no idea Tasmota did the Belkin emulation. This is awesome, I am trying this out right after work today ... kind of tiring to put everything into Node RED :O .... my Phillips emulation page is 5 meters long

[@TheHookUp]

The great part about stepper motors is that they can't push that hard. If a limit switch fails and a DC motor overextends it would either destroy the mechanism or overheat the motor. When a stepper motor overextends it just makes loud noises, but because the force of each individual step is pretty small it doesn't hurt anything. In the edge case that your power goes out in the middle of a move you can just send specific MotorMove values through the tasmota console or deal with one set of loud noises while it forcefully recalibrates itself.

[@denesk2794]

@@TheHookUp Thanks! Makes sense. The actuator I have actually has an internal limit switch, so if you calculate that it takes 30s to extend, put 45, then it just cuts out when it reaches maximum. So if I have a limit switch just a few mm short of the internal one, I can shut the power off. If that fails, it is still safe. That said, I have 5-6 steppers and controller boxes/circuits in my drawer, and looking at your project I am really motivated to do *something* with them :) . Cheers !

[@markday3145]

@@TheHookUp Apple's Disk II floppy drive used a stepper motor for positioning the read/write head. It didn't have a limit switch, just a mechanical stop. The first time you accessed it after (re)booting, it did a recalibration that was loud (I think it actually banged against the stop a few dozen times), but I never saw a failure of that stepper even after nearly a decade of daily use.