Mountain Bike PRO Shares Top Suspension Setup Secrets!

[@pedrovillagomez8528]

Excellent video!!! Thanks for sharing this! It helps a lot about suspension problems that it can be frustrating! You explained really well! Thank you 🙏

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Mike_Rides_Bike]

Nice video! Cheers

[@Cevirus93]

Very helpful. Im not often thinking (enough) about suspension. And this reminded me of some tweaks I could try out again for a better setup. Thanks alot for that - very clear and ez to follow.

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

glad to help! feel free to fire any questions

[@xwowa123x]

Oh, I see you are running a Voro! I just bought it for my Cannondale Jekyll 1. What is the coil rate that would you recommend for a 200lbs/90kg rider? The Voro comes with 450lbs by default.

[@mkrj2576]

Tire pressure always comes first and is the most important part of setting suspension.

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

I go through that in my bike setup video. This is suspension only.

[@mkrj2576]

@ K, but setting proper tire pressure is the first part of suspension set up.

[@anton_013]

That's just an amazing video! Lots of practical tips and advice, like "compression lowers sesitivity"... Wow, thank you for that!

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

Much appreciated, glad to help! let me know what else you wanna see!

[@staticfitment9489]

This is a stupid question: Is the suspension setup perfect when the bike dont bounce like you see those people post on instagram?

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

Not neccesarily 😅

[@jaad7562]

First thing you should think about is your airspring pressure to get the correct sag range and then how progressive it should be (so tokens or ramp up chamber pressure). The oil damping is always secondary - the air pressure dictates the rebound speed range, so it's pretty easy to get in the ballpark and then fine tune to your liking and then it's compression damping, which should always be fine tuning rather than your main tool. And the rear sag always depends on a linkage design of that particular frame and shock combination so I would rather keep the sag at manufacturer's recommended range than something from the top of my head. If the bike was designed with a 32% sag start with that (not with 20, nor 25) and then fine tune to your liking. And again the air pressure (or spring rate) is the most important and then comes the oil damping - not the other way around.

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

as I said.

[@jaad7562]

@STEFANGARLICKI yeah, but you said to play with tokens in the end and for me it is the next thing after you set up your sag (and rebound accordingly). Don't play with compression - get your airspring right first and to get it right play with tokens. Plus I don't think you can choose the rear sag arbitrary - go with the one your frame is designed for.

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

So I guess you must be a professional world cup racer too?

[@jaad7562]

@@STEFANGARLICKI obviously I'm not, so what? I didn't mean to offend you, but you said something opposite of what Jordi Cortes and literally every suspension mechanic I know says - get your spring right first and in case of the airspring it means setup your tokens too (or the ramp up chamber pressure).

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

@ first off I know Jordi personally and with all due respect, I made this video because I know it works for me racing professionally for the last decade. So forgive me if I don’t take your advise haha. The suspension mechanics are not pro riders and are not always right. We feel the bike on the track and I believe this is a better way to do it.

[@diego-ayres]

Great video !!!

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@practice4617]

:30 smoother not smother

[@STEFANGARLICKI]

Will tell the editor👌

[@jokermtb]

Cold air - you need more psi to match what you'd run in the summer, as the air molecules are packed closer together when cold (more dense), as compared to warm temperatures when air molecules are more spread out (less dense). I habitually reduce compression and rebound settings (colder oil has a higher viscosity) to compensate for the sluggishness of colder oil in colder temperatures, as well as increase the air pressure for cold winter riding (to get the same sag as during summer), as cold air is much denser than warm air (so you need more air pressure in the cold seasons, than what psi works during summer, where air is less dense). Physics matters!