BIKE CARB 4AGE IGNITION MAP

[@802Garage]

Copy and paste exactly for any Toyota engine ever? Roger that. Thanks D4A!

[@d4a]

Hahaha

[@iliasmetalworks]

You are very correct about 50 degrees of ignition timing at low TPS openings. I don't understand why most of the maps out there have 20 30 degrees... Mine has 45 and it works like a champ. Great Video!

[@zekeandersson2040]

works great but ads wear

[@marlo0oty213]

@@zekeandersson2040adds wear to what ? I also didn’t understand why maps have very low timing and low load areas im currently at 40 degrees there

[@zekeandersson2040]

@@marlo0oty213 more advance to timing more combustion chamber heat

[@lockjawjak]

Oh wow thank you so much, that will definitely help with the base tune on mine. I got the ME100 but tuning wise I am pretty sure its the same as the NoDiz, slightly larger carbs but should be pretty similar in the end tune to yours. PS definitely blaming you if my engine melts a piston ;)

[@shahengovindpershad8599]

Nice info. I suggest getting a knock monitor, one that is visual and audible(can plug in earphones). This will ensure safe tuning without the risk of detonation as not all detonation is normally audible from inside the car. I have the phormula ks4 its in the midrange of knock monitors and does the job well. I even notice say for example a very hot day the readings are slightly higher or with different fuels. Its a great tuning tool to have alongside the afr gauge for road tuning.

[@d4a]

I definitely agree with the knock sensor idea. I just looked up the ks4 and it looks great but I always wondered where to install the sensor itself on the 4a block since it never had a knock sensor as stock?

[@shahengovindpershad8599]

@@d4a I have a 4age 20v it comes with a factory knock sensor at the back of the block so i just changed the sensor. Its at the back towards the top between cylinder 2 and 3. I believe on the series 3 16v block has the threads for the knock sensor. On the earlier 16v blocks there should a tab where the sensor goes will just have to drill and tap it

[@manuqtix8874]

On a natural aspirated engine detonation does cause damage as much as a turbo or boosted engine 😊

[@TrgovacTrgovac]

Coll video looking forward too see the car on the street.

[@kemurikusari9629]

your map works great in my subaru :D

[@d4a]

Glad to hear that, it will likely work well in a bunch of different gasoline engines, with a bit of tweaking here and there.

[@wanmuhammadfakhrullahwan8078]

👍👍

[@mrsabidji]

Great video, man. Short-ish, but intense. :D

[@mrsabidji]

I realize I have weird standards as regards KZbin video length. Anyways anything under 20 minutes I consider short. Just felt like it needed clarifying.

[@joshag50]

I experienced the same "kick" effect on my 20v st with lower timing at part throttle and lower rpms, great video brother! 👍

[@lockjawjak]

Hey I was wondering if anyone has ever used the injector holes in the head as MAP sensor ports and/or brake booster source, that way you don't need to tap the manifold and disrupt the airflow possibly. Would be a sick little piece if you could CNC up something like the stock fuel rail but tubes instead of the injectors and you can just have a port on the end of the "vacuum rail" for the ECU and booster. Ever thought about it?

[@d4a]

Hmmm.. Using the stock holes can't be done but making something new is a clever idea. Basically like the rail but just four outlets. But it would be a relatively complex and expensive part for what it is. Tapping the manifolds is super cheap and simple so it's hard to beat. When it's done right it doesn't disturb airflow at all, you just need to grind down anything protruding inside the manifold. But it's still a cool idea if I ever do something show level and high end :)

[@MrNotStock]

Noice 😎

[@oxygenium92]

You have bike carbs and control over your ignition tune. Its time for ethanol if you can get it easily in your country

[@polaris2966]

ethanol will eat away some of the carb's parts, no?

[@stephenbello1081]

It's not great on most of the 1980's plastics and rubbers we have in our fuel system. My in tank pump has a fine screen that fell to bits allowing the fuel pump to seize. The pump mounting buffer was a melted mess. The main fuel filler supply hose is straight from factory then bent 90° as installed. Mine had gone rock hard at 90° so it wouldn't allow the tank to be dropped until it broke off. Modern rubbers conform to SAE30R6, old ones don't. Just keep in mind the amount of grief required to undo the damage.

[@polaris2966]

yeaaaaa all that trouble for negligible gain

[@payaso2297]

Sooo 2 coming

[@jmsjmson6]

Captain Boost

[@airone2580]

Hi what is the basis for modifying an ignition map? for a fuel map we base ourselves on a wide band probe but on an ignition map? Thanks

[@bryanphilip6252]

Hi there i'm a beginner at learning about car engine and have watched your videos recently. The top numbers are the rpm, the left one is the throttle position, and what is it in the middle? In your video you said 'do your cam timing before ignition timing', is there a way to control the ignition timing through the ecu? Is there any other thing that can be tuned from ecu beside cam timing and ignition timing? I'm sorry for asking so much questions, thank you. Love your videos btw, i've learned so much

[@Videoswithsoarin]

the numbers in the middle are ignition advance. the grid is the map that controls the ignition through the ecu

[@pk386]

1) What did you do to detect and listen for knock? 2) Where did you get the Stock ignition map? did nodiz provide it? Great Vid!

[@d4a]

No listening for knock. I confirmed on the dyno that there wasn't knock at even more advance than I'm running here, and I ended up retarding after that so I'm pretty sure I'm safe for now. I would love a knock monitor tho, not sure which one to get or where to install it since the 4age never came with a knock sensor from factory.

[@KubaPSP]

​@@d4a All 7rib 4A-GE blocks have bung for knock sensor ready (on intake side), just not drilled/tapped if I remember correctly. I think it would make for interesting video, drilling + tapping it and comparing preferably simpler solutions for knock detection :)

[@manuelthome7083]

@@KubaPSP hi Mine is tapped there :D my car got an exchange engine in ~1989 and it came with the 7rib block, 40mm rod journals, 18mm cold pressed piston bolts and high compression ratio pistons. The head is a rev. one as you can see underneath the dizzy hole. But the cams are the more aggressive ones from the 3rip engines :D all mixed up here.

[@fulcrum811]

Pozdrav:) This map here is a version 1.0. Do you now have a version 3.09? How does it look like today after driving and tweeking:)?

[@jaeshin]

Which ignition system are you using ?

[@sakisgeo3253]

Are you going to take the car to any tracks or events?

[@d4a]

I probably will, not sure where and what yet, but there will be something.

[@artecar017]

Hey bro, did you get your bike carbs from DanSt? I am about to buy from him a set of bike carb for an opel c20xe engine but are a bit expensive and i would like to know if you think they worth the money? The improvement was huge? Thanks in advance for your answer. Cheers!

[@d4a]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/foW9aqulZrGJe6M Yup, I got them from DanSt. Improvement in terms of hp isn't huge, improvement in terms of throttle response and sound is.

[@johnappel8969]

You have a sudden discontinuity between 25% and 30% throttle and again at 55 to 65% Can you notice a transition when you cross this threshold. I would like to see a 3 dimensional model of your map. It must look very jagged and unusual. What motorcycle carbs are you using, slide throttle or CV type and what throat size. John

[@d4a]

Carbs are Keihin CV from a CBR600R F4 with 38.5 throttles I believe (or 36.5...double check that). I can't feel anything as this map was made precisely to make things smooth, or at least as smooth as possible with the short travel and abrupt on-off transition of the throttle, that was designed to be twisted by hand. I tried and tested this map A LOT and I'm pretty confident it can't be improved much. I took it to a dyno later and after about an hour the dyno operator said he couldn't really improve it or make more power. But I spent more money on gas making this map than I would on a dyno if I had originally paid one to do it 😂

[@alltheboost5363]

I've been tuning my own vehicle for over a decade. it's a different type of car but a lot of the theories are all the same bore size is a direct correlation to ignition advance... alone with octane. Just that looking at your ignition map it looks very inefficient in the middle. I feel like your ignition map is making up for where the carburetors lack. Are those arbitrary numbers or are those literally you're ignition advance?

[@d4a]

What do you mean by arbitrary numbers? This is my actual map

[@sadakotube]

I haven't tuned a car in a long time but I remember when I started without a base map, i just put everything around 10-16 ignition advance and go from there. How did you start off?

[@d4a]

I started off with the stock map retarded around 8 degrees everywhere :)