ENGINE BLOCKS: Aluminum vs. Iron

What is up engine heads, welcome to another episode of engine boot camp, and today we're talking about the backbone of every engine, the engine block!
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First let's start with the basics. As you probably know the engine block is the backbone of every engine...if the engine were a human, the engine block would be the skeleton. And just like a human would be nothing but a blob of meat and skin without it's skeleton, so too would an engine just be a mess of parts on the floor without it's block.
The engine block is the largest and most intricate single piece of metal of every engine. Everything on the engine, the crankshaft, the cylinder head, the exhaust, the intake, and even the transmission, gets bolted onto the engine block. And as you're probably already the engine block is as old as the internal combustion engine itself, it was there from day one and it will be there until the end.
Although the first ever airplane engine to fly, the one in the Wright flyer of 1903 had an aluminum engine block for weight saving purposes, aluminum blocks were rare throughout much of the internal combustion engine's history, where cast iron blocks held a dominance for a very long time. Aluminum engine blocks started could be found in mass production passenger cars as early as the 60s, but they were far less common than cast iron blocks. Throughout the 60's and 70's aluminum engine blocks accounted for less than 2% of newly manufactured engine blocks. But this percentage would keep increasing through the decades, with aluminum engine blocks reaching almost one third of all new engine blocks in the late 90's. Beyond this point Ever tighter emissions and fuel consumption regulations pushed manufactures to find ways of building ever lighter cars and vehicles and ever more efficient engines, this tipped the scales in favor of aluminum and by 2005 aluminum engine blocks caught up with iron ones and shared an equal 50/50 percentage in newly manufactured engine blocks. Today, aluminum engine blocks account for more than 2 two thirds of all newly manufactured blocks, a percentage that will likely keep increasing.
But newly manufactured engines aside, you will still find many tuners, enthusiasts and race engine builders preferring and sticking to cast iron engine blocks by re-machining and rebuilding these blocks into very serious and capable engines.
Before we proceed there's something we first have to make clear. The term aluminum or aluminum and iron is a bit misleading , because within the term aluminum there are hundreds of different aluminum alloys and there are dozens of different grades and classes of gray cast iron.
So to be more accurate, let's first make it clear what kind of aluminum and what kind of iron are engine blocks actually made from.
As I said iron engine blocks are usually made from gray iron, one of the most common types of iron used for casting.
Now cast grey iron is divided into classes or grades . Engine blocks are typically made from class 20 or 25 grey iron and have a tensile strength in the range of 20.000-25.000 psi.
OEM Aluminum engine blocks are most often made from the one of three alloys: 319, A356 or A357,
Now there's another aluminum alloy that billet aluminum engine blocks are made from, and that alloy is 6061 alloy which is significantly stronger at 60-70.000 psi, however billet engine blocks are an extremely expensive aftermarket only thing reserved only for the most extreme of racing applications
Now Aluminum cylinder blocks aren't just lighter than cast ones, they also run cooler because they are better heat conductors, so they're able to transfer more of their heat onto the coolant and pull more heat away from the combustion chambers. This enables engineers to specify higher compression ratios by keeping combustion chamber temps lower and preventing hot spots and detonation. Higher compression is good for both power and efficiency. This is why the 4g63 was replaced by the 4b11, the rb26 (rb25dett) was replaced by the vr38 (vr38dett) and the 2jz (2jz-gte) was replaced by the BMW B58 I guess. But there's a price to be paid for better heat conductivity, and in case of aluminum engine blocks it's a higher chance of warping if the engine overheats.
To sum it up: Aluminum engine blocks are lighter, their cracks are easier to repair, and they're capable of having higher maximum compression ratios and are more thermally efficient. On the other hand cast iron blocks can take more boost, are cheaper and easier to rebuild, and are better at absorbing noise and vibrations. So who's the winner? Well it really depends on the application, both have significant benefits and the better choice really depends on what you want to do with the engine
A very special thank you to my Patron:
Daniel
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#d4a #enginebootcamp #engineblock

[@d4a]

Let's hang out: superpeer.com/driving4answers Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Rebuilt GM crate engine: amzn.to/3cIpmfG POR-15 Engine block paint: amzn.to/3eIKOCY Red Line engine assembly lube: amzn.to/2XYHkWV Engine degreaser: amzn.to/3cLjqCF D4A merch: teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a

[@kent0955]

could you introduce some motorcycle engine? just wanna know the different to car engine.

[@andoniades]

This vid reminded me of a college lecture back in the late 90's...back when we wrote in an ancient writing style called "cursive".

[@nocturnal101ravenous6]

OK let me correct this please. Aluminium = Element itself Aluminum = Amalgam or alloy we use.(ironically there is less than .5% of Aluminium in Aluminum like Alcoa 6063, 6061, 6062 for most cases where there is higher Magnesium%) I can get into a deep history lesson on an Industrial, Chemistry, and dip shit corporate marketing and confused scientific communities, that essentially led to the stupidity as to why we use the terms improperly, but tbh I would probably need your entire comments section. Also 6061, was CRS press 10, Chrysler/ Plym. Prowler, FYI, Its extruded not cast or milled from a billet(which is a slice of a cast log), the log is cast then cut into billets, then extruded into a generalized profile shape then milled. Its fairly easy to buy btw, there are several Aluminum companies that still exist that you can call and drive a truck to a loading dock Particularly in PA. Also when it comes to metallurgy most people don't realize the Hader the metal is, the more fragile it is an example is titanium terrible to machine and turn into something, but a small diameter rod I could snap/shatter over my knee, when it comes to properties of metals you can't have it all you have to take the good with the bad.

[@uru-freemind7711]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2rHqKOsr7GoeMk ea827 iron block is strong for turbo potensation. Fwd record... the iron block is more resistent to cavitation and temperature deformation... Iron block is the best because it has more duration.

[@NARENDRAKUMAR-dl7ek]

0

[@steven-vn9ui]

Not only do I admire this man's knowledge but the way he can put the information to his viewers is just off the chart. One of the best channels on KZbin.

[@Romamb]

Use a bigger chart.

[@markamd1]

calm down 😂

[@vincedibona4687]

He’s a handsome one, to boot. FTR, I am a straight male. But if I looked like him and had his accent, I’d be pulling the babes here in America.

[@velobob4299]

Been involved in the modification of stock engines for racing use for more than 30 years now, and have done a lot of my own research on the subject. I can honestly say this man 'knows his onions'. Excellent!

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

Yea he is def NOT scotty kilmer who thinks he knows everything

[@mann_idonotreadreplies]

@velo cool story bro.

[@VisioRacer]

Very well researched and detailed video. Definitely learned a lot!

[@d4a]

Thank you. Means a lot coming from one of the big dogs :)

[@aaronp9835]

Visio! Whats good!

[@christopherjones512]

Iron block better takes heat

[@mayuravirus6134]

@@christopherjones512 But it can't dissipate heat quick enough

[@DimoS...]

@@d4a mate please make a video with 1.8 20vt engine!✌

[@J3rryTortoise]

SUMMARY: aluminum block pros: -much less weight -slightly better cooling -slightly higher compression -much easier to fix cracks -more fuel efficient iron block pros: -better bang for your buck (much cheaper) -can generally handle more power -slightly less prone to warping -much easier and faster to manufacture -much easier to rebuild/resurface -less noise

[@justawhitenigga]

The best: iron!

[@sameerjain4423]

Is not Iron block is Steel block!

[@TheEdudo]

i knew iron wins, there is a reason why there is an IRONMAN and not an aluminiuman

[@octaviangeorge5455]

@@justawhitenigga if you care about dynamics and efficiency, aluminium is better.

[@shabasn]

@@octaviangeorge5455 who cares! Quality is always better.

[@tommydrake5682]

my ex girlfriend's heart was also made of cast iron

[@nrgrlsd9931]

So did you rebuild her when she failed?

[@hermanman8235]

CAST or FORGED ?

[@currentliveoccupant]

Did you resleave her?

[@mtcru]

Bore and hone her each day and cast iron be kept polished.

[@peterboot7120]

Hahaha 😂💔👍

[@802Garage]

"Extremely accurate computer controlled process." *Mustache man push button.*

[@d4a]

Don't you dare. He practiced for weeks to ensure a perfect performance! He trained that finger until it could push buttons like no other. Que scene with sweat band wearing mustache man pushing drawn-on buttons on a 2x4 with eye of the tiger in the background.

[@802Garage]

@@d4a We need the blue collar mustache man montage. 😂

[@meir0n]

@@802Garage 7:54 MONEY SHOT!

[@luk4s56]

@@d4a you mean went for a smoke when an intern typed down numbers into the computer that are likley ducktaped to the mashine? :D

[@802Garage]

@Bobis Vajine Mmm. Midnite Bepis.

[@alexanderunguez9633]

For minute 10, in case you guys were wondering, here's the weight percentage drop from steel to aluminum for inline 4, v6 and v8. 44%, 34% and 28.6% respectively. So inline 4 seems to gain the most weight advantage, which is great for economy and smaller cars.

[@MultiBuck78]

I've learned more in 10 minutes with you than i have with many hours with others. liked and subscribed.

[@barebonebeast]

Was it the first half or the second half of the vid?

[@princesssolace4337]

​@@barebonebeast😂😂

[@JoseRivera-ym3wj]

Very informative, as always. As a sidenote: there is one advantage iron blocks have over aluminum blocks: seasoning. With various heat cycles, the microscopic porosity of iron blocks can help it absorb oil into the block. When building performance engines, many will go for a well-maintained high mileage iron block with as little wear as possible. Many aftermarket iron blocks even come seasoned from the supplier.

[@divedo9108]

Well thats a strange fact, I got a 2.0 L 4g63 engine. It is well maintained, no turbo has ever been equiped on this beast, been running octane 100 on it since 117,000 km for less wear and tear inside the engine and its been driving 145,000 km now. How much do you think i can get for the engine alone if sold to the right buyer?

[@JoseRivera-ym3wj]

@@divedo9108, I'm no expert on the engine, but I have seen enough to say that it depends. There has been so many variations of the engine throughout its life, anyone that knows the engines can really tell. Some variants are known to be... problematic when building it for high performance.

[@Reverend_Salem]

and ig it dosn't come seasoned a sprits of lemon, some salt and pepper, saffron, and some ginger are always great choices. this is a joke, please dont season your engine like chicken and rice.

[@JoseRivera-ym3wj]

@@Reverend_Salem, you won the Internet for me today, so have a 🍪.

[@rkentwenger5095]

In the 80s, when BMW made turbo F1 engines with iron blocks, they did some kind of artificial aging process on the blocks because of this...

[@danilorodriguez4665]

Great video, one of the best channels in KZbin, very informative

[@igorvashkov8821]

Thank you so much for sharing all that knowledge, my friend! You're a natural born lecturer and your friendly manner of speaking adds so much charm to your videos and make them amazingly watchable - I didn't even notice how an over 20 minute clip came to an end. So exciting and dynamic! When I'm finished watching this whole playlist "Engine Bootcamp" I guess I'll be knowing more about engines than some of the workers at the local shops LOL

[@T0rpedey]

You did such a great job with this video. Extremely well explained and easy to understand. Big props.

[@sanneo1]

I love your narration and knowledge you have and share. As always great explained. Thank you!

[@danronck3636]

Amazing unformation and humor combined, great channel man, keep it up🙏🙏🙏

[@mfkliegenschaften5420]

While there is little instructive vids on the market, this is the first video among others on your channel that i have really learned from. Good job.

[@jasonstevenson110]

Even if you have no interest in cars these videos are great. They explain matters most give no thought about. Brilliant, simple easy to understand explanations. Thanks, and well done.

[@johnmeyers3844]

i love this channel! I learn a ton from your efficient and detailed presentation.

[@salmanalaalinew]

Honestly one of the best informative and entertaining channels.. Excellent.. thanks for the great content and efforts

[@FoxBonly]

EVERY video you make, you leaving NOTHING out and EXPLAIN PRECISELY AND CLEARLY. KUDOS!

[@chonshinlim6668]

Your content is excellent. You really deserve way more subscribers.

[@scotttomlinson1057]

Your channel has some incredible information! I i’ve been tinkering and working on engines my whole life and never really understood a lot of the information that you present. All the different alloys and ways of producing engines are complex and you do a great job of explaining it. Keep up the great work!

[@bajedrift]

As usual a very well put together video with good detail and very informative 👍

[@TurboHappyCar]

Really good stuff man! These videos are killin' it.

[@jeong-ilkajokaya3849]

19:43 "Boost and abuse" That`s about every car enthusiast ever, I lie?

[@Coyote27981]

Drinking game, take a shot every time he says "aluminum engine block"

[@d4a]

Here's a better one, take a shot every time you just hear "engine block". You'll be drunk 2 minutes into the video :)

[@tojiroh]

@@d4a was about to suggest that 😂

[@SendItGarage]

Coyote27981 and skull a beer every time he says iron engine block Challenge accepted

[@SuperDirk1965]

Why not eat two turds everytime you hear engine blawk

[@MarinTheFirestarter]

@Adrian black power

[@AbhishekK-hn4gd]

Awesome...excellent way of explaining the technicalities behind selecting Aluminium and Iron Block...in engine.

[@tomy8339]

All your videos area awesome, clear and informative. I wish you would do one on all the different types of turbo systems. Single, dual, sequential, vgt, electric etc

[@davidblalock9945]

Every time I watch one of your videos I start to think “well he missed an important detail”, then 45 seconds later, you pull round to that important detail after it’s become fully relevant.

[@fraymond3]

Cast "I-run" lol!!! Love ya buddy. Us yanks pronounce it "I-earn"... Excellent material as always!

[@janeblogs324]

Ausse me pronounces it "ire-onn"

[@calebnation7797]

Southerners pronounce it “ahrn”

[@callumlove2076]

shame you can't spell or pronounce Aluminium like the rest of the world

[@bobdole57]

@@callumlove2076 Taryl Dactyl does.

[@bcubed72]

Where I'm from, we pronounce it "ern."

[@Lu3Zak]

it is a joy to listen to you - a lot of information and knowledge... thank you for your work

[@eugeneleroux1842]

Thank you for a very well prepared and superbly presented video.

[@bunzeebear2973]

Helped so much when deciding what the "damaged beyond repair blocks" go- - a door stop or a boat anchor

[@fteoOpty64]

How about a coffee table?. A V8 block with 1/4 inch glass on top!.

[@tdautomotive8042]

If I had to choose between the two I would go for the iron block. Just for durability. Aluminium defiantly has its advantages, but can be so temperamental, especially when it overheats, it can go soft, distort, crack and warp.

[@johnanderson591]

😊

[@nevochen]

great video! you explained it excellent!! and really good editing as well.

[@tonyzuco6144]

Very well done. The attention to detail is great.

[@meanwhileinthegarage]

Interesting. Thank you mate.

[@stevenkurinec4194]

Another category not examined is longevity of the engine. I think this is separate to resistance to abuse and overheating. The aluminum blocks with liners/sleeves for the cylinders tend to exhibit issues such as waterlocking or coolant mixing into the oil due to the different heat expansion coefficients of the materials. Over time this makes engine work more frequent on aluminum engines with iron sleeves.

[@ghostofsparta6579]

I am really getting hooked to all of this grate videos accurate information smoth and intertaning delivery 👑

[@DouglaZandem]

This video just covered my whole semester, thanks my man

[@johnkeepin7527]

The thermal performance of Al engines is also useful when Hybrid power transmission is in use. In these applications, the engine starts and stops en route, and they warm up quite rapidly when started (which is automatic) even in cold weather (I run a Toyota Hybrid).

[@matiasfpm]

Yup. But also start and stop os a great way to cook the turbo oil hehe

[@olampros321]

Eclectic video, excellent job! Can you do a video about the theoretical advantage and the use of titanium and magnesium in engines ?

[@konsen6149]

Excellent review whereby most KZbinrs failed to highlight the differences except on engine configurations and layouts. Keep up the good works

[@ryancummings3700]

The fact this channel is not 5+ Million subs yet, Blows my mind... one of the best motor sports channels by a mile

[@carlosmayorca4642]

I love your channel! It's just a gold mine of information. From videos like this, to repair tutorials. Just amazing overall! I appreciate you taking the time to do such great videos. Can't wait till you get to a million subscribers. You deserve it!

[@burritopizza8242]

Engine blawk

[@AvoKupelian]

it's blahhk

[@avenger25]

Engine bloak it's all I hear!

[@norhairie2635]

So many blawk....blawk...blawk😁😁😁😵😵🤣🤣😂😂😬😬

[@d4a]

You're all wrong, it's bwuak actually.

[@diogenescapellangomez5576]

You nailed. That's all I hear damn😂😂😂😂

[@matthewmillar3804]

Never ever stop making content like this!

[@MrGoldInfinity]

Modern engineering’s balance of pros and cons if something that I enjoy very much. I love that there’s no such things as free lunch.

[@perpetualgrin5804]

Like with drugs, no free lunch.😅

[@diplonik8174]

I appreciate your channel and also this content, but let me add some points: -thermal expansion matters! The bearing clearance in aluminum engines increases when the engine warms up, this leads to higher oil flow through the bearings, so that the oil pump must be bigger in aluminum engines (=> higher friction losses => less efficiency). Keep in mind, that the crank shaft and (for OHV engines) will not expand as much as the surrounding material. The use of iron bearing caps is one way to reduce the thermal expansion in the bearings. The larger bearing clearance also contributes to higher engine noise. -wall thickness: in sand casting (like all gray iron cran cases) you can’t reduce the wall thickness as much as you need for strength. Below 4 mm it will become very difficult, although some serial applications succeeded with only 2.5 mm. So bigger the engine, so easier it becomes to reduce the relative wall thickness and so more use can be made of the higher strength of the cast Iron. -GJS 450: This material is replacing the old standard GG250 (don’t know what you call it in the US) and offers much higher strength (1,8 times as much) than the old gray iron materials. For Diesel engines it is the best choise for low weights. -cylinder distance: For a given engine length, iron crank cases enable more capacity than aluminum crank cases, simply because the wall between the cylinders can be as low as 5,5 mm in an iron crank case. -engine overhaul: this can be very simple in classic aluminum engines with wet iron liners by simply replacing them (like.g. in old Alfa Romeos). You can replace them almost indefinitely, unfourtunally this design is no longer used in modern engines (due to increased cylinder spacing). -Tooling: Aluminum is easier to machine an when using dye castings, very little material has to be removed, that’s why aluminum crank cases for small gasoline engines can be cheaper than gray iron crank cases. -threads: with aluminum crank cases you can only apply bolt with low strength (up to 8.8 strength) whereas GJS 450 can handle up to 12.9. With all the threading for the head, bearing caps, auxiliaries etc. this can be a real weight disadvantage. Due to the difference in thermal expansion, the threads in aluminium engines are suffering each time, the engines changes its temperature, which can shorten engine life. To compensate that, the threads for the main bearings are often very long because the thread damage is moving slowly upwards, so that there is a “reserve” of thread length. Aluminum can give a weight advantage for small gasoline engines, but not for bigger Diesel engines which can make better use of the high material strength of GJS 450 due to relative thin walls.

[@dandingerat]

great informative comment! thanks for this

[@simonward5833]

Great video and great series. For someone who spent many years in the metal casting industry, it’s good to see what advances have been made in aluminium technology. You didn’t touch on corrosion issues with aluminium. I remember the days when an aluminium head on a cast iron block was problematic over time. What are the latest technologies to guard against this?

[@rickitysplitz7035]

Depending on the corrosion, it can actually be a good thing. The corrosion can create a protective layer and cover the rest of the uncorroded block.

[@ghshrksidhc5460]

Best automotive-learning channel on KZbin.

[@MarvelousSeven]

Dude, very informative. Keep it up!

[@MrGsteele]

Interesting video. The advent of machined billet blocks addresses many of these issues. It would be interesting to compare 7075 Aluminum with 6061; it's as strong as steel - but hard to machine. Racing is driving the costs down of everything, as always. They are the early adopters that blaze the trail for moving a technology into affordable common use. Nice job on the video.

[@robertalameda]

That's why I love my 5EFE engine on my 1999 Toyota Tercel. It's indestructible.

[@janeblogs324]

Just remember you can only drive it for 3 hours 30 times per month while its overheating to ensure you don't crack the head

[@whytellmewhy]

Not only do I admire this man's knowledge but the way he can consistently say Engine BLAUKS with a straight face cracks me up

[@janggut7848]

Thanks for the video, it really helped me out on my report!

[@ibast1]

The main reason for aluminium blocks hasn't been weight saving and thus fuel economy. Fuel after all has been historically cheap in the past 15 years. If the cost of fuel was going to drive change it would have done so in the 70s and 80s. The main characteristic driving change is actually the heat soak characteristics. Aluminium blocks get up to temperature quicker and thus start up emissions are much reduced. Which is a big component of European emission laws. Aluminium blocks don't make engines that much lighter (as pointed out). Aluminium does have 1/3 of the density, but it also has 1/3 of the modulus of elasticity (which is bigger concern than tensile strength). Which means you have to cast a lot thicker than iron and put a lot more ribbing in the blocks. The result is they end up weighing about 75-90% of the weight of a CI block (also pointed out). When you consider the block is only about 1/4-1/3 of a total engine weight and then look to only a 10-25% saving on that, you only save kilograms. And that against the weight of a car isn't enough to drive change. Hence why it didn't happen until emission laws became tighter and the heating properties of aluminium came to the fore.

[@zahimiibrahim3602]

Great points, I totally agree!

[@octaviangeorge5455]

Performance cars have the whole engine made by aliminium. Not just the block. Considering a fwd or awd car, having less weight on the front wheels mean better dynamics. The biggest weight factor on the front axle is the engine.. So.. Even 25% is a lot.

[@caloye654]

How about the pistons? Are they alluminum or cast iron?

[@ibast1]

@@caloye654 Maybe there were cast iron pistons at some point, by some manufacturers, but they have been aluminium alloy for a very long time. Maybe some old industrial diesels were cast iron but I don't know any off the top of my head.

[@knutbjornlarsen4435]

He said 1 TURD !

[@Sacto1654]

A lot of engineers feared that aluminium engine blocks could have heat-related problems given how modern engines run quite hot, but dramatic improvements in engine oils (especially the current API SN rated or GM Dexos 1 Gen 2 rated oils) makes the use of aluminium blocks a lot more viable.

[@adolfosexto]

Discovered your chanel in 2023. Can say that you did a great job in improcing your videos to this day and date. Will binge your chanel!

[@AJ-qv9yo]

Great channel. Pure information and no BS!

[@trevortrevortsr2]

An excellent & comprehensive presentation. In the mid 80's at Silverstone I recall a conversation with the Lister Peter rep who said they elected to go with thin wall malleable iron blocks for their then-new design diesel industrial engine as tests had shown it to be superior to Aluminium however they were having trouble convincing the buyers that Iron even using their thin wall modern regime was a better solution - there seems to be a prejudice against Iron - Sadly the firm are no more and this great pioneering manufacturer has gone -I am an owner of a 1934 Lister CS1 where even the piston is a close grain child iron casting : )

[@ew3612]

You made a lot of great points for the iron block. One think that you missed on your chart is purchase price. If the cost difference between the two is say $800 then that money should be included in the fuel savings calculation and $800 can haul 15kg around for a long time.

[@CreSavio]

Keep up the good work man, loving ur vids... Im watching them all

[@marchutchings8834]

Dude, I really like your style and information. Thanks so much. Marc.

[@d4a]

Thank you for the support Marc

[@eskamobob8662]

Dude. I fucking love this series. TY so much for spreading this info out. Im an EV guy by trade trying to learn about ICE engines and it is shocking hard to find videos like this that compare materials and production techniques for different parts.

[@CaliforniaBushman]

After watching one hundred rebuild videos on my Chrystler 318 Magnum V8, I've got the bug to break open my first V8 engine. My first rebuild!

[@magicstew45]

Good one to start with but plan on replacing the heads. EQ heads will give you great power gains along with being more durable.

[@dunxy]

This appeared in my feed and im glad i clicked! Im more a external combustion kinda guy but love all engineering and now i know a bit more about the block in my car. It is CGI, so i am one of the rare cases that its not full commercial (although my vehicle was listed as millitary on the paperwork! when i picked it up new) and has one of these CGI blocks, its a Landcruiser 70 series, the 200 (which is %100 non commercial!) has same engine as well, unless youre American in which case bad luck no landcruiser diesel for you. This is one reason of the extreme reliability of these kinds of Toyotas AND why they cost lots of coin, more coin than others that dont build commercial grade 4wds for consumers. Many many million mile + Toyotas here in Austrailia.

[@lozza2272]

Great content with lots of info in this video. I'll probably only remember 30% of it but if someone mentions it in a discussion, it'll come back.

[@alfredotovar8984]

Great video! You should consider making a video on just talking about the different materials that have been used in production cars and in motorsport! Including the aluminum-beryllium alloy that was banned in Formula 1! Oh, also a video on banned technologies used in racing! Thank you 🙏🏼

[@802Garage]

Excellent video! Only other thing I can think of is that iron blocks are of course susceptible to rust. Not only is it ugly, but it can dirty up your coolant, especially if you run just water like a dummy. Not a huge deal, but just something I thought to mention.

[@fwdesparado]

I have personally seen an engine that sat up with straight water in it eat into an aluminium head as well. I'm guessing that it would also damage a block. Bottom line, don't put straight water into your cooling system, bad things will eventually happen.

[@derrickg5612]

All lives matter

[@bjorn1583]

@@fwdesparado also never mix glycol based coolants with water that has fluoride in it cos it will make an acid that loves to eat aluminium

[@electoplater]

@@fwdesparado you are right high ph water will destroy a alloy engine

[@a.fritzbecker8986]

@@fwdesparado It will eventually destroy an aluminum block, that's one of the stories I heard as to why G.M gave up producing the 215 V8 for Buick Skylarks, and sold the tooling to Rover, people in the Southern U.S supposedly running tap water through them eating the blocks out.

[@Waxxumus]

Very concise and informative. Thank you for making this video.

[@nicholasduma5404]

I will go for both, I love the video thank you.

[@isaks3243]

I used to daily drive a tuned volvo 940 with a turbocharged 2.3l inline 4 made out of cast iron. the B230 is a great engine for building cheap power here in sweden thanks to all of the cheap tuning parts available. so getting 250 horses out of the stock engine is an easy task, even tho the stock powere is just 136 horses on a b230 low preassure turbo

[@Martmns]

The late, great Smokey Yunick once said "It takes to pounds of aluminum to equal the strength of a pound of steel. Ol' Smokey was right. Also another factor about aluminum blocks that few people think about. Another late, great racer and engine builder, Bill 'Grumpy' Jenkins noted when working with the 427 ZLI-1 aluminum block and head big block Chevies, that due to 1). higher heat rejection and conductivity properties of aluminum and - 2) cylinder bore and deck height dimension changes caused by the higher rate of expansion of aluminum due to heat, that everything else being equal, the all aluminum ZL-1 made fully 8 to 10% less power than an equivalent cast iron block and head 427 Chev race engine. My thinking...if weight is not a critical factor, always choose a cast iron block for maximum power reliability and longevity.

[@randomvideosn0where]

You don't need as much power if you have less weight...

[@Martmns]

@@randomvideosn0where That's why I said 'if weight is not a critical factor". For example in a light-weight drag racer, a lighter weight aluminum block - even if it makes slightly less power than an en equivalent iron block race engine - may be a real advantage. But maybe in Bonneville Salt Flats type racer, where engine weight doesn't matter nearly as much, a heavier but slightly more powerful iron block engine would be more desirable.

[@clarencealexander1908]

Here I was thinking that the introduction piece was poorly written.

[@exoticcreature3059]

@@Martmns What about the pistons? I know it wasn't mentioned but I'd still like to know if it matters. Aluminum or steel? Again, we'll assume weight is not a factor.

[@Jupiter__001_]

@@exoticcreature3059 The thing with pistons is that weight is always a factor, because more mass means the crankshaft needs to bear heavier loads due to the increased momentum of the pistons (when operating at the same engine speed). This also means the con-rods have to bear heavier loads, meaning they need to be stronger, and hence heavier, which means even more reciprocating mass.

[@merlingeikie]

Good work mate. Happy Christmas from your buddies in Australia

[@oguzoner3050]

video and explanation researched nicely, this video includes more information and experience

[@Roarman57]

Awesome thanks for the video! My friend and I watch your videos on FaceTime together because of the covid lockdown. He has a 240z with a L24 and I have the K-series engines my cars, plus we are both huge rotory fans so your iconic engine series is our favorite thing to watch!

[@richardgraham4827]

Amazing videos...Great work ...how about SteelRods vs Titanium

[@leckramporan8146]

Top clear explanation . Congrat

[@obstinatejack]

good stuff, very informative and learned a lot from ya

[@jdoyle4811]

English is not your native language but you still make an excellent bilingual Instructor in either language.. Thanks for the lesson I enjoyed the specifics in engine block material.

[@mvnorsel6354]

So many non English people pronounce it i ron, not knowing the r is silient😅.

[@aterack833]

Just have iron sleeves, iron cylinder head cores (part where combustion occurs), iron piston caps even, and the whole bearing area (top and caps) be iron inserts too and you save as much of the weight as you can while having most of the benefits of iron

[@theodorgiosan2570]

GM is starting to do something similar on some of their new engines. The heads are completely aluminum, but the block has iron cylinders and main bearing structure inside an aluminum block. The advantage of an aluminum head is also that it runs cooler and doesn't suffer from detonation as much as an iron one. Even the head is screwed into iron reinforcements that extend down into the main bearing structure.

[@missingnola3823]

I'm clearly late to the party that is this channel but, after watching half a dozen videos, I have to commend this guy on doing such a good job of organizing and presenting information.

[@BlackStar250874]

As usual: Excellent. No need to add anything. Five stars to You !

[@vteckid82]

This is like listening to Christopher Walken talk after an extended stay in Europe.

[@korybeckwith834]

Lol

[@nyronm941]

I love aluminum blocks and heads because its always that last bolt that keeps spinning, and of course whatever you where doing is covered with rtv .... :(

[@micahhill4786]

Stripping threads on aluminum blocks are my specialty

[@vthors2826]

Really enjoy these videos. Great job!

[@Monstacheeks]

Thanks for the Informative video...You’ve answered so many of my Wondering Questions.

[@maxmoughal5183]

"Other tricks up their sleeve" i see what you did there ;)

[@TENNSUMITSUMA]

I don't! I don't get it.

[@d4a]

Sleeve, as in cylinder sleeve, but also sleeve as "trick up one's sleeve".

[@TENNSUMITSUMA]

@@d4a damn it! I could have figured that out! Lord help me sometimes i'm just not that bright!

[@FoxBonly]

@@TENNSUMITSUMA hahaha...........you're me to a T! lol......LOL.....

[@ghostofsparta6579]

@@TENNSUMITSUMA 🤣🤣🤣🤣👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 its all fine some time we get hooked up to the mechanical side and we lose the slang side .. i didn't get it at 1st too LMAO

[@a2cryss]

2:52 "two turds"

[@biggityboggityboo8775]

Indeed 😁

[@maverick2242]

I heard that 2 Made me think of Count Von Count on Sesame Street ... 1 Turd 2 Turd 3 Turd ah ha ha

[@rosjja]

Congrats, you earned a new subscriber today buddy :)

[@angelomelojer7719]

Hey i,m drin Austria i love your Videos ! I so Work with Cars and there Motors more than 15 years before i See your Videos i've Bern meening i know all abouth Motors but i learn so much from you !thank you so much and dont Stop make Videos ! In German we say : danke vielmals fürs deine perfekten erklährungen du bist der beste

[@knocksensor3203]

So satisfying to hear “ aluminum engine blocks”😅😅

[@spedracer55]

blahcks

[@circusboy90210]

Blauxs

[@TheGreyTest]

Buick 215... also known as the Rover V8 in Britain (and elsewhere). 👌🏻

[@janeblogs324]

You're killing me

[@7s29]

Yeah, I've got one of these in my 1988 Honda Legend.

[@VAspeed3]

True. Rover bought the design and some tooling from GM in the 80's I think. Upped the displacement from 3.5L to 3.9L. My father drove a 1962 Olds Cutlass with that engine about 200,000 miles back in the day when 100,000 was about all you could expect from a car.

[@a.fritzbecker8986]

@@VAspeed3 Late 1960s actually, and they were still making them for Range Rovers up until 2000 at least, though with a bigger displacement. They used to use P6 Rovers equipped with the 215 for cop cars over in Britain, it was the only thing there that could compete with the Jaguars the crooks had.

[@TheGreyTest]

@@VAspeed3 Rover did a whole range of sizes of that V8, from the 3.5 litres up to 4.6 litres. Other car makers used it too, modified and sized to suit their particular needs, TVR for example with the 5.0 litre in their Griffith 500. ✌🏻

[@pistolpete7280]

Very informative video, thank you for making this

[@knocksensor3203]

Soo satisfying hearing “block” over and over and over

[@Midnight_Rider96]

I've handled many ls aluminum and iron blocks in a rebuilding shop. The difference is huge, I can pick up and carry an aluminum LS block easily. Iron LS will kill you trying to pick up by hand.

[@donniebaker5984]

Aluminum small block chevy is 50 pounds lighter weight than an iron small block chevy ...

[@perpetualgrin5804]

Save on gym membership, get iron😅.

[@carnutal3627]

Thanks for this great video. I was wondering why the engine in my mk 7 GTI was quieter than the engine in my merc glc 300. It doesn’t make sense considering the cost difference of the cars. The VW has a very sweet turbo motor which I love to rev the hell out of. But the Merc engine seems to rev easier and faster albeit with more noise. Maybe you can explain why some engines rev faster than others

[@connorray9801]

That's Throttle response it just varies because of different throttlebody sizing and cam profile, flywheel weight, rotating assembly weight

[@whoneedsroads]

Nice one! I enjoyed it very much. One fun detail: I drive a 2002 Saab 9-3, with a B205 2L engine (the 2.3 is a B235). Only the stroke-length differs (78 vs 90mm). Hence the base is also named B2x5 When totally stripped, the iron engine block weighs 45 kg. Already close to the 47 kg mentioned for a 6-cylinder. With no hefty internal modifications, they say it wil not break down and function reliably up until some 300 hp. The predecessor is the B2x4, which is heavier. It weighs 49,7 kg and it's said it can handle power up until some 700 hp. Mind that the internal components (pistons, drive-shafts and all) seem to be in a heavier class as well. I've took apart two Saab engines in the past years and plan on rebuilding one as a hybrid. The block from the B2x4, including crackshaft. The cylinder-head from a B2x5 (better flow) and the camshafts from a B2x4 (even more flow). First save some money to get this project started ;-)

[@willysnowman]

You are on it. Nice work!