Truck Tire Mounting Procedures (part 2)

[@HumbleHeartMinistry]

Just got a job doing this. I worked at a tire shop back in the early 90`s but haven`t touched a truck tire since then. Watching this brought alot of it back to my memory. Thank you!

[@MrJokster]

I'm about to get a job doing this, this was great information... Hope I get the job! :)

[@mrknizzle09]

Where I we implement about none of these techniques lol but I can also change a tire on the side of the interstate know about 7 min from start to finish.

[@louisphng1]

very good video

[@Zilmar830]

isso que é tecnologia"

[@aaronwilkinson8446]

The way he removed the wheel is the most unsafe practice i have ever seen, please do not do anything this video says and read what i have written (12 years experience) -To properly, Safely and quickly (when busy) remove the top bead is to use 1 bar at (first), not 2. -Next with the bar 2 inches away from the valve stem (same practice with TPMS) make sure the bar is past the toe of the bead so you do not damage the bead. -Next step on the opposite side of the wheel to push the bead past the drop center (extra effort for thicker beads). -Next using a Spoon bar (half the size of a wheel bar) push the bar past the bead toe 3-6 inches from the wheel bar you first inserted, while keeping your attention to the wheel bar so as it does not fly into your face or the dreaded crotch shot or of course the other employees or customers that insist they watch!! (sometimes you can step on it to hold it down, or hold onto it with your hand). -Next pull the Spoon bar towards you (never push as the bar could snap back into your face) and keep doing this until the bead has lifted over the flange of the wheel. -Next lift the wheel using your legs (not your back), grab hold of the large wheel bar and make sure the back plating (that contacts the wheel hub or other back plating of duel wheels) and the first bead you pulled over the flange of the wheel is facing you!! -Next place the bar knuckle upside down so the knuckle is on the flange, step back, holding onto the end of the bar (have carpet on ground for Aluminum wheels) and use the weight of the wheel and lift the bar up hard, while the wheel drops down so the remaining bead easily removes off the wheel (skid-steer wheels are typically the same). -Next remove the valve stem and replace with the according stem such as a C28 3/4"X5/8" or a C28 27deg 2.4"X5/8" valve stems but many various stems are available for specific wheels (do not over torque as some stem models have rubber seal so hand tight is good practice, never super tight, better looser then over tight) INSTALLATION -Next have your tire ready with Murphy's wheel mounting compound or what your shop specifies over the bead ridge and bead toe. -Next position the tire so the stem is opposite of you on the wheel and place the tire over the wheel and push down on the tire until it wont go on any further (some tires slip right on) -Next using the Spoon bar again (no need for wheel bar) place the spoon end past the bead contacting the flange were the bead has not lifted over yet. -Next place your foot on the tire so the bead that has already past the drop center does not lift up for the next step. -Next pull on the bar (never push, you do not want a crotch shot) so the first bead fully moves over the flange. -Next grab the wheel bar in your hand, position the tire so you can see the drop center of the wheel and step down on that spot and using your other foot, push down around the wheel until the bead lip will not go over the flange. -Next for this last step of wheel install, place the wheel bar knuckle into the wheel past the bead toe were you were not able to push over the flange and then step push (yes push, not pull) the wheel bar until the last bead goes over the flange. -Next do not move the wheel installation (if you seat the bead to the flange standing up the bad could not or will not seat properly causing a blowout which is also common practice with a steer tire) and remove the core with a core tool, and place a clip on air chuck with a constant flow of air so for the step, the bead does not fail to seat onto the flange. -Next with a Bead blaster (80PSI) position the bead blaster end down past the bead and blast a shot of air (opposite the stem) .. (cold tires require pre-warming or extra work) -Next fill the tire to about 20PSI and inspect the bead so it is seated evenly around the flange and using your Legs (not your back) lift up the wheel and continue filling the wheel while listening to the wheel for sounds of bead and sidewall separation (sounds like popcorn) in a certified (non bolted down) wheel cage to specified PSI (100PSI, 110PSI, 120PSI) depending on the wheel. (Steer tires require an in ground wheel cage as they are to be inflated then deflated to about 50 PSI and inflated again while still laying on the ground) -Next when the wheel is aired up, insert the core back into valve stem and continue airing up until the wheel is fully inflated. Drive tires, often do not require balancing but customers may require them to be balanced but steer tires are always required to be balanced. Thank you for reading and hope you are safe while installing any type of wheels that require a hands on remove or install. Be safe and enjoy your career as a Commercial Tire Technician.

[@potatismos6910]

I just watched this video, did they not use safety cages back then? To put the tiren in when putting air in them (just in case they explode). Thats a must here at every tire shop, to put truck tires in a cage when putting air in cause if they explode its with a big boom