Multipitch Fundamentals: Rappel Transition

Jason Schmaltz highlights how to do a transition to rappel with two parallel followers. This climbing tutorial is great for anyone getting into multipitch climbing, trad climbing, or any outdoor climbing. This is also a key in the Rock Guide Curriculum with the AMGA.
#climbing #rappelling #rockclimbing

[@namelastname2449]

Jason, could you do a belay escape sequence please, when possible? I’m belaying from a ledge with an atc and my climber is leading the next pitch. He’s injured and I need to escape the belay so that I can move freely…while making sure I can still lower him to my ledge

[@danriethmuller5302]

Hey man! Im stoked you are trying to get information out there. However, lowering a climber with a LSD system is concerning for several reasons- First, the lsd isn't a great tool for a planned lower- a munter or redircted tube lower is much more reliable. A munter is ideal and won't twist the rope when used correctly. Second, lowering one rope while having the other in the device doesn't really work too well due to the weight of the 2nd person. If they are at the anchor (where they can unweight their rope) its better to isolate both strands so both climbers aren't tied into 1 device. There are several solutions that increase both speed and security for the climbers being lowered. It's great to descend efficiently! Especially when weather is moving in- and if something like that is happening, I want foolproof solutions. Unfortunately, this system isn't it.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Thanks Dan, good to see you on here and thanks for the feedback (we met once on south side I think). Can you give some insight on how to lower on a munter without twisting?

[@danriethmuller5302]

@summitseekersexperience657 definitely! I keep the load and brake strand parallel- ill DM you with a picture for clarity!

[@summitseekersexperience]

@@danriethmuller5302 cool, you can send me via IG if that works (I don’t know how to dm on YT). I’ll follow you on ig

[@braydenpeterson6784]

Always rappelled individually as a party of three, this is a great time saver

[@namelastname2449]

Great!!