Must See Router Table & Lifter Upgrades | How To Upgrade Your Router Lifter

[@service88jm]

I added Teflon pipe tape to my lift adjustment screw which seemed to stop the drop...so far.

[@erock801]

thank you for the update video! Ordered one of the lifts because of your vids. one thing jumped out - you don’t have to be a licensed electrician to wire a switch and an outlet… come one man. also, have you considered a bluetooth or RF remote plug so you can switch the router on and off without removing the front board? it’s the same concept as the festool dust extractor remote.

[@JohnColgan.]

Local regulations might require. UK you need to be a "competent person", some US stated require licence to do anything

[@fifthamendment1]

Just a suggestion…. I would put my switch for the router a little forward. Then notch out the dust cover for the switch. You will be able to turn on your router after the dust cover is in place. 13:05

[@LDSouthSession]

Such a wealth of knowledge mate

[@JohnColgan.]

My rise/fall adjustment solution is cut some 1mm thick 10mm OD springs to 70mm length, place them between top alloy plate & underside of router table, always keeps downward pressure on the assembly

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

@@JohnColgan. thanks for sharing 👍

[@JohnColgan.]

@@geoffsjoinery4990 update, the long bolt was pushing the grub screw out, even after blob of CA glue. I tried 2 nuts squashed together above lower plate but that was scoring the plate, so glued washer to cushion the nut pressure. It works better now. Also few round of tape to router body, too loose and moves even when clamped (Makita clone 65mm dia)

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

@@JohnColgan. good on you John, you should do your own video on this…👍

[@JohnColgan.]

@@geoffsjoinery4990 Shy !!

[@edodibujos]

I recently installed this same lift for my router table. I think it's a good device to start with and improve the table, but it has more than one problem. 1- Sometimes it doesn't go down when you turn the adjustment screw, the weight of the router is not enough. Although it seems that with use this goes away. 2- The adjustment screw for elevation doesn't have any kind of brake and turns only with the vibrations, which results in losing the depth that was given to the router tip. It is solved by adding a nut or something that generates more friction on the thread of the bolt. It is essential to make this arrangement or your work will be ruined. 3- The device is not very robust and unfortunately tends to tilt slightly under certain pressure in the milling process, most of the time it doesn't happen but with certain routers that offer more resistance or denser woods, the tilt is noticeable and will leave marks on the milling. 4- The depth adjustment crank is precarious and very short, it has no additional support to make it turn evenly and if you want to use the other hand to hold the shaft, it is too short and does not allow it, it is a disaster. It is better to use the drill with an allen tip. I took apart the crank and placed a potentiometer knob on the hexagonal rod, with this I can make fine adjustments and with the drill move the depth quickly.

[@williamericashby]

Great info there thank you. Do you have any difficulty chasing bits? I can't quite see how that is done.

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

It’s not to difficult I just wind the router all the way up and undo with the thin spanners provided with that machine. Thanks for watching 👍

[@robertk7748]

Overall good review. Thx. The issue I still have is with movement. Even locking the adjustment screw doesn’t stop all movement. The router can still lift up with vibration as there is no locking nor pressure holding mechanism of the plate that’s tightened to the router. That whole piece is only held down by the weight of the router. I’ve had it lift on hard wood or just vibration. I saw someone try springs which helped some. I’ve also put Locktite on the grub screws holding the router as they had come loose. Loctite solved that. Overall a good little unit for $30!

[@twizzian]

I’ve used compression springs on mine, it has helped but there is still a slight drop. You will have to mess around with the length and using the right spring tension.

[@robertk7748]

⁠@@twizzianthank you, I did order a few different sizes/forces and it did help. McMaster Carr - part# 9657K434

[@erock801]

@@robertk7748thank you for posting the part number! was going to McM-C to look at options but this saved a lot of trial and error.

[@robertk7748]

@@erock801 I did the trial and error. Now have a lot of springs for random needs - lol - update - since this mos I've routered 100’s of linear feet with no issues. Its no Masserati but works at a great price point in a non production shop.

[@reaper060670]

I love this router table u have built. How do u find the Triton. I've heard they are a great option?

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

The Triton is a great router with a soft start and plenty of power. I really like the micro adjustment you can get with this router lifting up and down with the round handle. Also changing bits is easier as all you have to do is wind it all the way down and it automatically locks the shaft, then you use your spanner provided to loosen the collet nut. This router was designed for router tables.

[@antoinettefarrugia6513]

Great video as always!

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

Thanks for your support as always 😁

[@georgequalls5043]

Movement would be my concern with this lift as you and others pointed out. Not sure I would like messing underneath the table to adjust a nut every time. Wonder if there wouldn’t be a fix to address this from outside the table somehow.

[@josephking6515]

What are the drill bits you used to drill out the holes for the magnets? My drills don't leave a nice flat cut like yours. I get a round sort of scoop so now I have to wonder if I have drills more for drilling metal. Spade bits drill a too large of a "V' channel for this ILMO. Thanks for the video. 👍

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

Hi Joseph, you need a set of bits for wood, I have left a link below for you to have a look, good luck and thanks for watching and your support 👍 Brad Point Wood Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/3PRpC2h

[@rodbutler9864]

Very nice.

[@markpearson2085]

Looks great,have you been happy with the triton looking at a small bench top router table and router.Haven’t decided to build one or just buy a kreg but it has to have a lift

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

Hi Mark, Yes I agree with your last statement, your router table needs to have a lift especially for that micro adjustment for accuracy. I have been happy with the Triton, it’s powerful with a soft start and I like how it adjusts with the turn of a handle clockwise or anti clockwise. It also comes with a wind up handle which can be added and works in the same way as the lifter if you set it up. The main reason I decided with this mini router table build is it can easily be pulled apart and packed up if I need space or not using it. If your serious about doing a lot of work on the router and have the room in your workshop and budget, then go for it, something a bit bigger and set up. Thanks for watching and your support, good luck 🤞

[@markpearson2085]

Thanks

[@saviourpace3522]

Just one thing I would point out. The internal switch and plug. Does the plug at the back (front) go live when you put the switch on? As if it does it is a safety issue and I would change it yo a socket. Otherwise great ideas and well done job.

[@geoffsjoinery4990]

You basically use an extension lead (plugged into your workshop power point) to plug into the back male 3 x pin plug which then sends power to the front on/off switch. Then when you turn the switch on it powers the power point/device plugged into it...ie router turns on.

[@jimgeelan5949]

Amazon £12 mini scissor lift job done

[@gaiustacitus4242]

The terribly long print times are why I became disillusioned with 3D printing. For most parts, I can fabricate an equivalent component using metal or wood in less time. Granted, the 3D printer allows me to spend time doing other things but when I need the part ASAP that becomes a moot point.

[@ДартВейдер-з4э]

👌👍😎