Mustang Fastback BROKE DOWN on First Week of Ownership... Episode 6

[@NateRider]

hey guys do me a HUGE FAVOR!! please click "Share"> then copy link. I want to experiment with youtubes algorithm

[@thicknick6461]

You got it!

[@jathings5885]

Anything for u dad

[@B0st0nftw]

Lazy Krazy someone sounds salty. Keep riding on your big wheel pal lol

[@blurryvizzionzent.4017]

You should have got a Manuel 😵

[@rondogcarsmanship7740]

Urw bro

[@NateRider]

boys... 70% of my viewers are non subscribers.... we average like 50,000 views per video that means 35,000 of you haven't subscribed yet. come join me! subscribe to the channel!

[@NateRider]

UPDATE: Holy smoke boys! Its working. 2 hours in and the video is already getting more views. I think we’ve figured it out! Continue to like and Share>copy link!!! Lets goooo also watch as much of the video as you can from start to finish. Maybe watch the ads too if ur feeling extra generous 🤙🏼

[@leopiedra9560]

Since we’re in it together when can I pick it up to drive it lol

[@NateRider]

hahaha i wish everyone could drive it

[@alvarocimental8358]

Rule #1 - ALWAYS CARRY A TOOL BOX WITH YOU BECAUSE OLD SCHOOL MUSTANG ALWAYS TEND HAVE MINOR BREAKDOWNS Rule #2 -Carry a fire extinguisher too because you never ever know what could happen especially with the gas tank in the back of your trunk.

[@NateRider]

alvaro Cimental i carry all my tools in my trunk! Thanks dude i just need the fire extinguisher

[@alvarocimental8358]

Nate Rider if you need any help/questions lmk I’m 23 and I have a 65 coupe went thru a lot of trial and error with my mustang lmaoooo

[@daillonjoris8141]

Extinguisher was first thing I bought with multimeter for mine 🤣🤣😅

[@furhadnasserjah123]

If I were you I’d take it to a reputable shop near you that specializes in classics and have them check everything. Better to be safe than sorry, and you can ask them a ton of questions

[@NateRider]

i should do that! thanks dude

[@NateRider]

what dyno numbers do you think beverly put up? I will be releasing this video this Wednesday the 24th. I was so happy with the numbers

[@thicknick6461]

I think it'll put down, 200 or 300 to the wheel.

[@Nitro-fu7rv]

For an old 289.... 147 to the wheels. 225 at the crank

[@NateRider]

Nitro wow you are crazy close!!!!

[@joeyharris98]

153

[@Nitro-fu7rv]

Nate Rider love my 289s. If you do a couple upgrades you can make 150 more hp to the crank. They are small torque engines

[@NateRider]

guys I need you help. comment everything I need to know about classic cars

[@thicknick6461]

You should get a catalog for that car incase any more stuff breaks.

[@shmaiahvlogs4489]

You constantly have to work on them if u think it’s fixed it not u always gotta work on it

[@Nitro-fu7rv]

If you don’t like tinkering every weekend you won’t enjoy the car, luckily for me I love it. That comes with owning an older car

[@Randybumper6974]

I would stay away from auto part store rotors and pads/calipers because now pretty much all of them are Chinese made and they aren’t the most reliable. They will work but they won’t last as long because they won’t be as heat tolerant and the build is cheaper.

[@seanantie294]

If one thing breaks don't replace just the the thing that broke, replace it and anything else that goes along with that part so those parts won't break as well

[@mclovin11765]

Hey Nate I mentioned it last video but the borgeson power steering unit is fantastic I love it on my car. It removes the factory power steering which can get in the way and you can use manual suspension parts which makes it much cleaner and gives you more space. Can’t wait to see more of this build!

[@NateRider]

Walking Legend thanks for the tips! Ill check it out

[@hbmustangs]

I put a borgeson in mind, don’t you find the ratio abit lazy and still has play?

[@mclovin11765]

Harry Burroughs i wish it could be a bit stiffer feeling but it doesn’t really bug me too much I’m not pushing my car hard it’s more of a cruising car, also I haven’t noticed any play on mine

[@TomHappyapril]

#longtubeheaders

[@graysonwilliams5874]

You need a castle nut so the cotter pin will sit in one of the slots and not move. Hope you see this, love the Beverly content

[@NateRider]

thanks! i am on it

[@NateRider]

Im thinking about making beverly my dedicated burnout machine! what do you think? miley for racing, beverly for burnouts? that means i need to get a track car, drift car, show car, offroad vehicle, ohh boy the car obsession never STOPS!

[@thicknick6461]

Maybe beverly should be the show car, but miley for racing, hell yeah.

[@thicknick6461]

I have an idea for a dedicated burnout car, civic eg hatch... front wheel drive, vtech, slap a turbo on there, she'll be spewing smoke from the wheel wells.

[@joeyharris98]

Nah Beverly would be the offroad car lol

[@joeyharris98]

And with miley being the faster and much more capable car it would only make since to have it be the show car and only drive it once a year

[@harjit2187]

Get a Jeep as an off-road vehicle you can do so much to the Jeeps

[@NateRider]

where my notification gang at?

[@thicknick6461]

Right here... DUUUHHH.

[@Car_nage]

Right here nate!

[@HankNinja]

I love your enthusiasm and what a pretty car! The castle-looking thing goes over the nut before the cotter pin (don’t reuse cotter pins). Pack the wheel bearings, don’t just “soak” them. You should probably get another new bearing if you didn’t pack the first one. Tighten the nut so the wheel spins juuust freely with no binding, but also no wiggle. There are no cats, so not a “cat back.” Rubber fuel or brake lines should not cross the exhaust. Fires are bad. Consider buying repair manuals for your car. A little homework goes a long way toward not hurting yourself or others with improper repairs.

[@killznone8736]

There is always something to replace on these older cars. I have a 1965, every weekend I have a project for it.

[@mikegalley9335]

Nate, take the split pin out, loosely tighten the nut and back it off half a turn, put the cover on, replace split pin- the cover is a substitute for a "castle nut".........

[@MrJeffreysBAMF]

Awesome. Glad to see you’re working on all this yourself. One of the pluses of owning a classic is the simplicity of repairs!

[@johnlacanilao6170]

Everytime you go to autozone make sure u already know what you’re buying. 90% of employees dont know sh*t about cars

[@NateRider]

lesson learned

[@darrellbaker4537]

That little aluminum nut/sleeve that you was asking about how it goes over the spindle nut, you just slide it over the nut before you put the Carter pin in. It helps keep some dust out.

[@silencedlamb__]

When he said we in In it togehter! I was like yes! Please! I've learned so much from you been watching since you've had Sally! And I just love the progress you have made!

[@rayassante3606]

Hey Nate, YT just turned me on to you, first, about your rusty floor pan, you should check where the water was coming from for the reason that it rusted in the first place, could be the hot water heater hoses behind the glove box (if your lucky ), the nightmare is when you pour water or hose into the outside vents, below the windscheild and the runs inside thru the heater box and sits on the floor pan, carpets begin to stink ,mild dew, etc., could be the windshield seal. I bought a 67 Eleanor, E-bay, shipped it to Germany, to find it was total sht, more than a rebuild, I'm talking new front frame rails and aprons, we learn as we go good luck

[@davidkelley751]

You should definitely join a Facebook group for 1960s mustang owners and ask your questions there. They would probably love to offer some advice and help.

[@NateRider]

That would be cool! i need to do that

[@AllensAutomotiveReparations]

Hey Reference your front brakes that cover goes on before the cotter pin goes in, the cotter pin then goes thru the tabs and prevents it from rotating and it then prevents the nut below from rotating out and loosening off destroying your wheel bearing.

[@NateRider]

thanks for this jeff! i will get this all fixed

[@EyesRed]

Watched this video and laughed when you got to the power steering part....I owned a couple of mustangs and 3 cougars back in the day. The first thing you learned about all of these cars was that the power steering is not your friend....lol. I carried brand new extra PS hoses & fluid in all my trunks for these cars....plus lots of tools. Years ago you'd think old farts like me had the time of our lives in these cars, well we did. Except, watching you with these break downs brings back the memories from the other side that nobody wants to talk about....lol.

[@alvarocimental8358]

Also change/check the brake line hoses they maybe old . Also the drum brake in the rear if you have them.

[@NateRider]

thanks! i will do

[@N-Scale]

Welcome to the world of vintage cars !!

[@NateRider]

very true lol

[@reeceparker2545]

This is still a Beautiful Beautiful car

[@NateRider]

Im glad you like it

[@justintrades7851]

Hi Nate, I have 68 mustang as well, I want to put ground force rims on them too, 1.) what size rims do you have front and back are they staggered? 2.) will theese rims bolt on stock parts did you have change rotor or use any spacer?

[@jamesbaker1260]

Make sure ur bearing races r seated all the way if the nut doest go far enough to put the lock n carter pin on

[@NateRider]

thank you i will check that out today!

[@kenbaker8868]

You have to make sure the exhaust is tight with no leaks! Your steering needs to be checked to make sure there are no worn out parts!

[@NateRider]

new exhaust system is on the way!!!

[@rocketcarx]

You need to stop driving the fastback until you get the cage nut installed and put a dust cap on it. Even at just 100 miles it’s clearly coated in sand. The cage nut goes over the retaining nut but before the cotter pin is installed. Google a picture of it

[@NateRider]

thank you! i am getting that fixed as we speak

[@hemi300c4]

It looked like the old bearings needed some grease. The difference in classics vs today's cars is the ease of maintenance. No computers. I didn't notice if your 68 has a 4-barrel carb or has been converted to fuel injection. If you're still running a carb. I recommend switching to fuel injection.

[@NateRider]

You are right!

[@davidhamm4721]

I believe those mufflers are Jones Full Bore delta mufflers. I have them on my Black 05 Mustang GT. They are basically two chamber Flowmaster mufflers without the high price. I've had them on my GT for nine years. They sound so awesome!! Also I love that fastback. Jmo, that car is great as is.

[@crabbypapa3862]

The cable against the exhaust is probably the speedometer cable.Tightening the pipe to exhaust manifold bolts should help give you clearance there, but, the new pipe seems larger than original, so moving the cable or other solutions may be necessary. If not, the heat could cause the cable to seize up. The factory leaf springs taper at the ends, aftermarkets tend to be squared off. Possibly reproductions will look original, but if you are not going for concours it isn't a problem as original springs will sag over time. Sometimes the parts store computers are wrong, Do Not expect the counter person to know everything he/she usually rely on what the computer says.

[@fordsallshewrote8732]

I learned a trick or to about those fuel gauges one, they are a real pain to replace unless you have tiny hands but if the gauge gives a reading it’s probably not broken , two, the two wires going to the fuel sender have a boot connector and if the connection is dirty or if there’s a lot of resistance it will give you a lower fuel reading. If the gauge never moves from that spot the float could be stuck. Hope this helps

[@fordsallshewrote8732]

Also for the spindle take the nut off go to a hardware store and ask for a castle nut but you might wanna get a couple with different heights make sure that the nut is grade 8 and it’s stainless steel

[@thegreekguyviva-greece5881]

If you said it, I missed it sorry... better pack the other side... there was no grease in those bearings... thats not something they can just forget to do meaning the other side is dry too if same person did it....

[@gustavomuniz5745]

Adjustable Funnels , cyphen tubes, hoses should work for right now for the gas. My 70s gto have somewhat the same problem.

[@NateRider]

thanks for the help!

[@jeremiahsmith6689]

when I 1st got ownership of my 67 I used compressed air to push all of the brake pistons out of the calipers to inspect them it revealed clumps off rust that would block the piston returning down correctly my car did sit for 10 years before I got it one caliper did lock up an need replacing after 5 years from that time

[@NateRider]

thanks for that info! it helped out a lot

[@daltonwilder5195]

Loved watching the video till the end, your my favorite KZbinr. Always excited when there’s a new video out.

[@NateRider]

Wow, thanks! you're the best! means a lot to me

[@FUNDUDE-iw1uq]

Hell I’d keep fixing her too, keep it up man love watching your vids. Always entertaining and informative, please keep making more!!

[@NateRider]

More to come!

[@heyoitssky1191]

That nut on the wheel bearing should be as tight as you can get it especially if you aren’t putting the lock washer back on. And that bell housing cover should not be sealed the oil is coming from either the rear seal on the engine or the front seal on the transmission do not seal up that bell housing the clutch should be dry

[@NateRider]

thanks for the info! it really helped out

[@wolfthornhawkridge5705]

Not certain if anybody mentioned this but you should have your spindle checked. I had the same issue years ago with a 68 mustang and with the bearings being out it tweaked the spindle. Wouldn’t align correctly until I replaced the spindle.

[@albundy1703]

Don't know how late to the party I am, however, the retainer you are trying to fit over the cotter pin and nut is supposed to be on the nut with the cotter pin going thru it to keep the nut tight. If I recall correctly, rotate the hub (the part that is made with the disc machined into it), and while rotating the hub tighten the nut on the spindle that keeps the wheel bearing, hub, etc in place until it is hard to turn. Then fit the retainer (the piece you tried to fit over the spindle, cotter pin, and nut) align it with the slot closest to the hole in the spindle where the cotter pin fits. If you have to loosen the nut a bit to get the keeper to line up, that is better than going too tight. Be certain you packed the wheel bearing very well, that's what happened to the outter bearing on that spindle, "grease worms" ate up all the grease. Make sure you replace the seal that is outside of the inner bearing. If the retainer doesn't fit still, remove everything, then check to make sure the bearing races (inner and outter) are both completely seated in the hub. Good luck to you and I love your 68! It's my favorite year model (fastback version) my dad had one when I was a kid, it was the second car I ever drove, the first being a 68 VW Beetle in a school parking lot when I was 10. ;)

[@NateRider]

thank you for this information! i made it fit. i just had to push the bearing in a little more.

[@deborahberner5569]

Did you pack the bearing the proper way or just "soak" it in the grease? If it's not packed correctly the bearing will fail again.

[@NateRider]

yes i did

[@jasonboggs5454]

You need that retainer that goes over the nut that’s what keeps the preload on your bearing it will keep on coming loose without it..!

[@yuriyork8094]

Love your videos, and your car. Amazing. Which one day I’ll have the same. Thanks for inspiring all of us.

[@NateRider]

Thanks for watching!

[@NateRider]

also don't forget to LIKE and SHARE>copy link

[@kellbray4236]

Double check your bearing dimension Maybe the retainer would fit then.

[@julianescobedo7828]

Hey Nate, questions for you. What size and model is the Wooden Wheel on that 68’ ? I just bought a 69’ and would like to have something similar. Thanks ✌🏽

[@JoseDiaz-bk9mh]

Right when he said no more breaks I knew what was wrong. Bearing is out. Same thing happened to me, except it completely exploded, wheel dropped in like crazy camber, no more breaks, caliper was destroyed, steering knuckle was damaged but since the heat and sheer force if a sudden break, the axel but was pretty much welded on, I had to replace everything that’s involved with the steering knuckle and brakes

[@NateRider]

dude it is scary! im glad you are okay. need to get it fixed asap

[@JoseDiaz-bk9mh]

Nate Rider preciate it man. Same for you, glad you’re safe! Shit happened to me as I was coming up to a 4 way intersection😂 luckily no cars were comin up to it at that perfect moment for me to just roll thru it. This happened almost a year ago btw. So yes, it was fixed

[@Runnin_Late_68]

If you don’t go coyote I’d suggest getting adjustable upper control arms and going with coil overs for the front these cars don’t handle all to well.. if it doesn’t already look at getting a 9in for the rear if you plan on putting down power..before you take it out on the road again please get a dust cover on just a short drive and there’s a lot of sand caught in it.. don’t overtighten the nut on the bearing, then put the retainer on, then cotter pin.. looking forward to the next video

[@NateRider]

thanks dude! it really means a lot. learning so much

[@juliorivera9111]

i was so scared that he wasnt gonna pack the bearings with grease first but thank god he did

[@NateRider]

i soaked those suckers

[@guy-ux7wg]

Hey Nate you need to put that retaining sleeve on the nut as I'm sure you know you put that on and then the caterpin. It keeps the nut in place and keeps the nut from backing off. If you don't it may over time with all the movement when driven the nut could possibly back off and sheer the pin off with the weight of the vehicle then the nut would come off and cause a accident and or cause more problems. Love you videos and I like your cars but I must say I miss your 3v mustang. I have a 2005 mustang gt and I love this car. After I got my car i looked up videos on my car and came across yours and I've been a fan ever since. Wish you all the best brother keep doing what you're doing 👍

[@dogsense3773]

Owner here of many 67 mustang's cougars I work in a restoration shop, I see this all the time, nice paint engines, interior, but wires brakes suspension all with no maintenance,brakes are # problem, your bearings were making noise for a long time dude,you are lucky your wheel didn't lock up,when these old cars come into shop some have 10, problems but old cars will turn you into mechanic in no time

[@Salty638]

You have it in the wrong order, the retainer ring goes on the spindle nut and then the cotter pin goes through one of the teeth and then you do your bend on it which then your grease cap goes on top.

[@swish1onu]

So typically when buying a used car (non-dealership purchase)... you make an offer after a mechanic has gone over the car.. the reason being you can factor in any repairs needed... Was the car already priced cheaply enough where you weren't concerned about additional repairs?

[@gregbickley7496]

Hey Nate it’s Greg here from Australia pull the split & nut off & check the bearings are properly seated in the rotor because you should have about 1/8 to 3/16 roughly between the nut & split pin so that you can fit the locknut then the split pin. Hope this helps send me a message to let me know how you go. Greg Bickley

[@NateRider]

thanks! ill look into this tomorrow! very helpful advise

[@saxonstangsetc3201]

When you go to the parts store Make sure the part you are replacing is actually a stock part. a lot of the suspension parts on that car are not stock. for instance those are not 68 front Disc brakes.

[@Jab-lj3wc]

Borgeson steering conversion is a nice kit and will solve all your steering problems with a better feel.

[@NateRider]

a lot of people recommending that! i will look into it

[@Jab-lj3wc]

@@NateRider it's what I put on my 67

[@tonychihuahua7822]

Make sure you probably pack the bearings with grease to extend the life of the bearings

[@kevinbrown5093]

Tony Chihuahua I was thinking this too.... I didn’t see him pack the bearings

[@stanger8259]

The retainer Needs to be on there so the cotter pin keeps it from backing out. Maybe you should buy a spindle nut kit from the part store. Which has a new washer and nut and retainer and cotter pin.

[@NateRider]

i will get this fixed

[@Jvsmoothlikegravy]

Tubular upper control arms NICE!!!

[@NateRider]

they were nice!

[@drnabilkhan]

Just discovered your videos man after watching some classic car videos and realized you're in San Diego! I just moved here, lovin' it; I'm sure your black beauty will be back up and running soon! Enjoying your videos man; it'd be great if you do meetups, would love to check out the ride in person! Cheers

[@NateRider]

sweet! maybe we will see each other around town

[@drnabilkhan]

@@NateRider For sure!

[@Jedi391]

I miss Sally

[@NateRider]

same here! i will make a video with her soon

[@forseti52]

Uneven pad wear on brakes could be calipers. There is also a brake pad check tool.

[@NateRider]

yes i need to swap these out

[@letmein2460]

Buy a new castle nut if you cannot get your existing axle nut retainer to fit over your 6 point hex nut. You should have also packed the wheel bearings with grease because adding globs of grease to the shaft does little, you do this by impregnating the bearing with grease. I put a small hand full of grease in the palm of my hand and scrape the bearing in the grease until the grease is forced through the other side of the bearing rotating the bearing slowly for 360 degrees until the grease has been forced through all bearing rollers. It takes a minute or two to pack a wheel bearing with grease. Install the seal bearings and rotor and then preload the bearings by turning the hex nut, or castle nut, until the rotor has quite a bit of drag then release the pressure by backing off the nut until the most of the drag is gone and then install your cotter pin through your castle nut/axle nut retainer. The dust cap you are not worried about is extremely important, look at all of the dirt on the axle nut and cotter pin after just 100 miles! Great job at being humble. Keep trying and be safe. Awesome car!

[@NateRider]

thanks for all of this helpful info! wish you were here to help. you seem to know it all

[@letmein2460]

@@NateRider You are welcome and yes I am do know my way around cars. I am not far from you and I make multiple business trips to TJ per year.

[@wilhelmsmit7828]

That bearing i think is not bedding against the axle deep enough hammer and a socket will help do not hit the bearing on the outer wall the rainer and clip must go on !

[@NateRider]

i got it fixed!

[@cerwilliamyatesjr71]

Dude you MUST have a castle nut for the cotter pin to slide in to. If not the hub nut WILL back off, break the cotter pin and your wheel will come off.

[@NateRider]

i know i will get this fixed! thanks dude

[@B0st0nftw]

Congrats mate! Glad to see you getting dirty and wrenching man!

[@NateRider]

Thanks 👍

[@dustinjenkins1709]

I deleted my power steering on my 66. It frees up some horse power and you can feel the road a lot better. Those old systems don't work as well as the new ones.

[@NateRider]

thanks ill look into it!

[@dogsense3773]

@@NateRider keep the power steering, 41yers mechanic here!

[@dc76384]

Nate with the age of that Mustang, I'd be careful about making this a fire breathing race monster. Just a thought, I'd make it into a very nice boulevard cruiser. Make it sound nice, look nice, and run nice. She's an old gal, and probably wont take well to getting beat on.

[@NateRider]

thats the plan!

[@dogsense3773]

You are sooo right bro the best advice he got so far

[@dc76384]

@@dogsense3773 I try to be sensible about the advice I give. Naye seems to be a good guy..And I'd hate to see an old Mustang get abused

[@dogsense3773]

+

[@wessclox8760]

Didnt know about the copy link for support. I'll start that with all my fav youtubers. Love the car man

[@NateRider]

its an experiment and so far its working!

[@wessclox8760]

@@NateRider the 68 fastback is my dream car. I've been 5.4 4 valve swapping my s197 and love every learning experiance that comes with a project.

[@davecervo]

Nice pick up Nate!! Although this car is in desperate need of a modern big break kit and a nice coil over set up ASAP! Those leaf springs need to go lol

[@NateRider]

yes! couldn't have said that any better

[@davecervo]

Nate Rider awesome!! Can’t wait to see the transformation unfold 👌🏻

[@jeremiahsmith6689]

for the steering option there are these rack and pinion kits that remove the shock towers [i.e. Total control products ]but give you more space for engine mods or big engines but the price is up there starting around $1,500 I would do it but its not in my budget before I build my own engine

[@Markbiker21]

Love this proyect even more than The Shelby, made to the end 👍🏻

[@NateRider]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@roushsporthvacman7095]

Nate please do not drive the car !!!! Replace the the adjusting nut Locking Ring and it should slide over the adjusting nut. Install the cotter pin and please install a new bearing cap.

[@NateRider]

i will do so! thanks dude!

[@bryanrobles4430]

New subscriber here🙋🏻‍♂️ im excited for this classic🔥

[@NateRider]

Welcome aboard!

[@ethanmouzakis1267]

Check out open tracker racing suspension. I just put it on my 65 and it handles like a dream. I am running the viking shocks with it and they are adjustable with up to 320 settings. 👍🏼

[@Dekoan01]

Doublecheck everything if u want to buy some stuffs for your oldtimer ;) and if u do one side just do the other side too.

[@NateRider]

thanks! will do

[@daillonjoris8141]

Check the cabling and fuse box, i order new harness from autowire, 69 full harness, if you want to restomod it better to start on up to date electric, correct size and new tech.

[@NateRider]

thanks for the input ill check it out!!

[@daviz1972]

Use a dremel tool and grind down the grooves on the cap for the cotter pin or order new.

[@NateRider]

Great idea!

[@05gtdriver]

Looks like the inner bearing sleeve isn't seated all the way into it's race on the rotor hub, could be the reason the rotor isn't seating all the way onto the spindle and as to why the cotter pin and locking nut aren't fitting as they should.

[@NateRider]

thanks for that! ill look into this

[@kenbaker8868]

You may have a bubble in your fuel tank. That’s why the fuel spits out like that!

[@NateRider]

thanks! i never knew

[@starrguitarworks]

Looks like you paid over $30k for a decent paint job. The rest of the car doesn’t live up to the price tag. Damn shame. Best hope it isn’t a bondo buggy... which I’m betting it is based on the condition of the rest of the car. Looks thrown together.

[@NateRider]

i believe i got it for a steal. one just sold yesterday at $40k. same exact condition as mine and motor

[@bigdisme5622]

I agree

[@jdripp8796]

You should probably next time replace your brake pads and rotors at the same time so the brake pads don’t warp the rotors and give you som more life:) good video!

[@justintrades7851]

do you know if the rim he uses can bolt on to a stock mustang?

[@alexcroft8947]

Can't wait to see the Wilwood upgrade.

[@NateRider]

its going to be awesome!

[@TomTheCat.]

A whole new modern brake jobs needs on this mustang

[@NateRider]

yes!

[@Anonymous-qd4zl]

Love the stickers!

[@NateRider]

Glad you like them!

[@ryanm351]

Love your content my guy!

[@NateRider]

thank you so much!

[@CameronFoust]

That drip on the trans bell housing could be the rear main seal that’s gone bad. I had that problem on my 2000 mustang gt.

[@NateRider]

yes that could be it

[@CameronFoust]

Nate Rider if it is it’s not super serious because there could be a lot worse then that but it’ll definitely need fixed as soon as you can get to it

[@overwroughtbloxxoverwrough9644]

Nate I have no clue how your channel does not have over 500k subs

[@NateRider]

thanks! i am still grinding. hopefully i grow more! i appreciate the love

[@overwroughtbloxxoverwrough9644]

Nate Rider 👍

[@boxcarent.3147]

How much or about how did this car cost ballpark.

[@noelitooo4525]

You need to fix things as a bigger picture, better to be safe and fix more on a classic than fixing less. Rotors, pads, bearings, new hardware if possible, new grease. On both sides too that way you ensure it’s all even and works well. And if you have manual brakes, you gotta bleed them right there on the spot, it can be dangerous if you have air in the system and you start to brake and realize you have to press a lot harder than usual to brake. Owning a classic is nice but can also be dangerous with today’s traffic

[@NateRider]

couldn't have said it any better. thanks for all of this info

[@JesusFlores-mj4fr]

How many miles could you travel on a full tank of gas on your mustang 1968

[@paulschellhorn78]

Beautiful car sir 🤘🏻

[@NateRider]

Thanks! 👍

[@gwclan3265]

Make sure tie rod ends are good.

[@NateRider]

Thats a must. I got scarred last time when my driver side tie rod fell off and i lost steering in my 69 coupe

[@toado696]

I had to replace the bushing in the distributor the other day, my old mustang is always needing something replaced or adjusted.

[@NateRider]

same! the issues never end

[@daltonwilder5195]

Those are definitely aftermarket tubular upper control arms,

[@NateRider]

thanks for the input! i didn't know

[@jefftriplett7561]

The retainer ring stops the nut from turning.

[@daltonwilder5195]

H pipe is also better for lower end torque and has a more deeper sound than I think than the x pipe

[@NateRider]

h pipe is a must for classic cars

[@johnmcglynn271]

Idk how you do it man but that car is beautiful.....

[@NateRider]

thanks dude I appreciate it

[@johnmcglynn271]

I have the 2006 mustang Gt 4.10 gears Bbk short tube headers h pipe with flowe masters Hurst shirt throw 62mm throttle body and cold air 90mm intake Bama 93 octane tune Staggered 315 275 wheels from AM I want to put some hot rod cams after I saw how they sounded in your s197