Mustang Ram Air

[@stevepearson7745]

Love seeing the Yellow Stang again!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Us too. I failed to mention that it was the first vehicle to be worked on in the new shop!

[@anthonyvee]

Great attitude on the way you show and explain things... Thank you.

[@blackforestvintagefords7872]

Thanks for vid, showing us the 72 Mustang again, rolling under its own power. I did the installation with the same kit on my 73 Mustang with a 351C 4V. Although it came not with the Ram Air setup it came with the HD springs from the factory. I added the correct hood locks, the correct TuTone paint on the hood with the right dimensions and the Ram Air setup. On the Air Cleaner element I added some things to make it more functional and OEM, like the inlet for the fuel vent, the hose for the pvc system and the temperature sensor for the vacuum door. Since I have headers I did not add the snorkel tubing or the fresh air duct the '73 originally had. I had only one big issue with it so beware and test it twice: the flappers did not travel the whole way through the inlet, they blocked itself and were scratching on the plastic side of the inlet. So I filed down the metal flapper a little bit so it can move freely now. Before installing the whole hood again please test it! Btw: Bob Perkins too have a Gold Glow 351C 4V Mach 1, which got the Ram Air original from the dealer added, window sticker shows it. You could get it in those days, but only from the dealer.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Awesome info! Mine had the flat wounds too. But we wanted to feature the new ones that have been unavailable until now. I will look at the hood scoops for interference, though I did test them before I installed it. Sometimes installing will change positions. I wonder if the cost was a "you might feel a slight pressure" level.

[@TheVenom8343]

Mr. Ford, I absolutely LOVE the history lessons!! I could watch an hour long video on just the history of things. It's cool to hear why a manufacture did or didn't offer something. 1980 Mustang here with a D9 351w with D5 heads and a Sig Erson 290 duration .508 lift cam. Stout little combo in that light car.

[@jwrockets]

My High School car was a very basic 1971 Mach 1 in pewter. I added front and rear spoilers. I guess I needed stronger trunk spring, huh? You've earned a subscription.

[@DragPakMerc]

Excellent video and I enjoyed the history lesson. Quick tip: Slip flat washers or something similar between the hood spring coils. The shims lengthen it and make removal/installation a lot easier.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Great tip!

[@TICKFORDNZ]

Greetings from New Zealand.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad to have you here!

[@robkallok77]

Jeff - great video again! I don’t own a ‘71 to ‘73 Mustang but enjoyed the history lesson and found watching the Ram air installation to be oddly therapeutic 😋

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad you enjoyed it. I found it freeing, cause I wanted Ram Air back in the day but trapped myself in the Concours Resto mold.

[@gerardomedina333]

Thank you very much for posting this Mr. Jeff. Im looking this for my 1973 Mach 1. Im trying to built a RAM AIR system using a sheet of steel. But it is very heavy. Nice job! God Bless you Sir!

[@Paulie1232]

Great job and good Information...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks Paul!

[@machone7580]

Good to see the Mach1 again!! Been waiting for it!!

[@AutoRestoMod]

More to come!

[@robertclymer6948]

Hi Jeff! My grandpa had this very same Mustang. I obtained it after his passing. Really horrible car to drive in the snow, no traction. The Mach 1 was pretty quick though. Thanks for sharing. Love and blessings to you and the family! Cheers from Motown.

[@AutoRestoMod]

There was a duplicate of this car I saw in Steamboat Springs Colorado, sold at the dealer across town from this one (in Denver) guy was the original owner.

[@malcolmmarsh2710]

I have used a thick fan belt to pull those springs.

[@AutoRestoMod]

These were REALLY tight.

[@rescuedandrestoredgarage]

Great video. Need to get one of these for the 71 we got home.

[@mkspeedlab9335]

I have seen a really good way of taking hood springs off is to use an old seat belt buckle from the wrecker. Slips on easy, and more than strong enough. But great seeing the Mustang. Im working on my 72 a bunch right now and just trying to head off any rust before it starts.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Not a bad idea!

[@gilberthale7777]

We have functional Ram Air on our 1973 Mach 1. In our case, the Mach 1 initially had a base 302 2v engine, a C4 three speed auto transmission, and very steep 2.79:1 rear axle gears. A prior owner replaced the 302 2v with a 1994 351w (not C) from a Ford F-150, installed heads from a 1969 351W 4v engine (larger ports), and had the rest of the engine built for moderate street/strip performance. After being built the engine put out 360HP. The compression ratio was limited to 9.5:1 (forged aluminum pistons) so it could handle the low 89-90 octane non-ethanol free gasoline in our area Rochester, NY). He also replaced the 2.79:1 rear axle gear set with a 3.5:1 TractionLok gear set, which made for very spirited low end performance. But it also caused the engine RPM at 60 MPH in high gear to increase to about 2,750 RPM. as opposed to the 2,050 RPM with the original rear axle gears. When we first got the 73 Mach 1, I replaced the original NACA/NASA hood due to some rust issues with a new NACA/NASA hood from NPD. I also removed the hood's inlet scoop blocks, and installed a ram Air kit with the under-hood air plenum, also from NPD (part of a kit). I later decided to have the Ram Air be used more to bring cool outside air under the hood in general, as opposed to simply directing Ram Air inlet source air toward the carburetor, where all unused cool air would simply be pushed away from the engine compartment. I was not worried about any loss of performance as it has been shown time and again, with many different vehicles and Ram Air configurations, that Ram Air, unless forced via TurboCharging or SuperCharging, really does not created any significant increase in vehicle performance. Cool air does help performance, but Ram Air unto itself does little for performance. The largest benefit of Ram Air is to get cooler air into the carburetor, something that is still occurring with our Mach 1, except the cooler air is brought into the entire engine compartment, not just the carburetor intake air source. After having the Mach 1 deeply restored we swapped an AOD in place of the C4, and now in high (OverDrive) gear the engine RPM at 60 MPH is about 1,800 RPM - making for some really fun cruising, where there is plenty of power on tap whenever needed or desired. The AOD helped us get our feet into both worlds, comfortable cruising at a nice RPM level, and spirited performance at the low, middle, and higher levels pf performance. And, the engine is powerful enough to effectively overcome the high level of air resistance at high speeds, a consideration when running with an OverDrive transmission. It is really a nicely balanced vehicle that performs amazingly well - especially considering it is a little over 50 years old. And the Ram Air hood inlets let folks see through into the engine compartment, as opposed to seeing the scoops are blocked with plastic plates. It does look cool, and I hear comments at car shows re: that being "real" Ram Air, not just a mock-up set of non-functional hood scoops. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXfPYXVjptKfgqs

[@jamesmedina2062]

Hey Gilbert. I have a 71 351C Mustang with C6, 3.50 gears, and my engine guy built a 10:1 compression engine that has run well but the RPM problem is very bothersome for highway driving. I need more gears! Did you find the AOD rather heavy or any issues with it? How much was it? What torque converter did you go with? I would like to lower highway RPM via 3.25 gears perhaps or an AOD or Tremec t-5 manual swap. Money is im short supply lately but I can dream right?

[@gilberthale7777]

@@jamesmedina2062 Hi! I definitely get how the engine RPM can get to you at highway speeds with a 3.5:1 ratio rear axle gear set. Just try to imagine how it is like with 3.91:111 or 4.11:1 gears, or even lower ratios for balls out drag racing. The AOD swap went well, but I had throughly researched the process,a nd needed parts, pretty deeply before tackling it. At that, I do not have the equipment needed to really do it easily (transmission jack), so I had a local shop do it for/with me. When I say "with me" I asked the shop owner if he wouls let me video record the process for KZbin, and to work with his tech providing guidance, as they had never done a swap with AOD replacing a C4/FMX/C6 before. The tech was cool with my request, in the end. He confessed to me later that he had his reservations about a customer being there as he was doing the work, but as it turned out he appreciated having someone to talk him through the new steps, and who actually knew what he was doing (I am a forner auto tech, from the 70s and 80s). If it had been for the original C4 tranny needing to be rebuilt (slipping badly in the 1-2 upshift at wide open throttle) I would have more likely installed a Gear Vendor OverDrive unit. But, the C4 was a little light duty with the Street/Strip build the 351w has (a modest 360HP, but it has lots of torque). Hence, the reason for doing an AOD, but with an optional firmer shift (Monster Transmission), and I also purchased a 1900 - 2300 RPM torque convertor with the AOD purchase. I could have gone with a steeper gear ratio in the rear, like 3.0:1, and I know that would have brought the engine RPM at highway speeds down to a nice level. I know this because we have a 1969 Shelby GT500 with factory required 3.0:1 rear axle gears, due to it having a 428 CJ engine with factory A/C. I felt I would lose more low end performance with a taller rear axle ratio, and I liked how the 3.5:1 performed around town. The AOD 4th gear (OD) provides a 0.667:1 output shaft ratio, which effectively turns our 3.5:1 rear axle TractionLok gear ratio into the equivalent of a 2.33:1 rear axle ratio were I to have a non-OD tranny (3.5 * 0.667). That is about as steep as I would have wanted. But, the cool things are that I was able to keep the lower ratio TractionLok rear axle gears for lower speed performance, and our built 351 has the power to overcome the high wind resistance at triple digit speeds. So, I kept the low end performance, while bumping the top end - and have a nice engine RPM at 65 MPH, even at 70 MPH (or higher). That said, were I to do it again I would before likely to swap in a 4R70W AOD, as it is computer controlled for shift speeds, firmness, etc., electronically. Sure, I would have had to buy an aftermarket electronic controller (there are several folks who make those). But it would have been far easier to adjust the tranny pressures, as opposed to having to set the Throttle Valve (TV) Pressure manually, a few times as I kept increasing its base PSI in order to get my 11-2, 2-3, and 3-4 upshifts to occur at higher road speeds than the standard TV PSI level provided. Setting the TV pressure properly is critical to keep from frying the tranny. It is nott hard to do, just tedious, especially by the time was doing it for the 3rd time in my quest fr\or higher speed upshifts to occur. The AOD does weight a little more than the C4, but the tranny jack helped make that easy to handle. I kept the oem auto tranny shifter, and it turns out it works perfectly with the AOD, although the shifter gear indicator is a little goofy with the D, 2, 1 shifter positions. I cover how the shifter behaves in one of several KZbin videos I did on the entire process. I also have some files that contain some good into, as well as provide the parts list and vendors I used for our project. The files I have are on my Google Drive at the link provided below. It is a lot to read through, but I think in the end you will be glad you read the documents I put together, as well as watching the KZbin videos I put together. Below is a listing of theKZbin video web addresses, as well as for my relevant files for the parts and vendors I used, and much more. Have fun! No regrets with us, we love the AOD. Documents on my Google Drive: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cXXDj9mEs_1ANCFhD5pYBqLre05iseOk?usp=drive_link KZbin videos: This is a link showing the impact on engine RPM at 60 MPH with the AOD in 3rd/Drive gear, and then in 4th/OverDrive gear. In the AOD, 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio, just like 3rd gear in a C4. FMX, or C6 automatic transmission. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJe8lmBjfNidms0 Following is a list of relevant KZbin video links contained in this document’s prior paragraphs, and from KZbin listings: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKPHfHaZhbCplbs kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4vaiZWAgMl3gdE The following link is for the Neutral Safety/Backup Light Switch splicing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKunnnmge8uHY6M kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3m6imxmaLNnmNU kzbin.info/www/bejne/jouadJ6ZjpapfLM kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJW1Xq1pgLtji6c kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3Slc5qaYtSfh5I kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJS8o2lultmFoK8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3exiYd9jbOBmbM kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKW3qKGYmL-Nobs kzbin.info/www/bejne/boLRlHyBhrmphNE kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGXPn4OImqyKq68 kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJe8lmBjfNidms0 Setting up Throttle Valve Pressure from the carburetor cabling, and how the original auto tranny floor shifter behaves with the AOD when shifting manually: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYqscqSnjrp-hNE More below This video shows there is a difference between TV pressures in Neutral vs Park: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJm9e3ikfKiDrLs Another Throttle Valve Pressure Adjustment “outside” video is : kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKLOl6KEd9h9jck From a Facebook post (NOT MINE, but seems useful) on 1/26/2022: done a 4r70w in my 69 fairlane. Just bought 68 cougar it will get one too. Do your research and you'll know what I'm talking about when I say: J-mod to the valve body, US shift trans controller, IMPORTANT-Provide your builder with: www.jegs.com/.../Lokar-Ford.../1231928/10002/-1 Your life will be easier when hooking up shifter, if your running a rearend gear lower than 3.55, like a 3.70-4.11 etc. U will definitely want to direct your builder to install a 7 tooth speedo spline output shaft. To get speedo to work with 8 tooth u have to use a 23 splined speed cable gear which will last about a week! Be sure to get a 1998-2003 4r70w. 5.0 Explorer preferred has 5 clutch hub, 3.8 v6 4r70w have 4. If using stock gear drive speedo, make sure the trans u bought has the hole for the speedo cable AND the speedo splines on the output shaft. Swapping out the 4r70w tailshaft housing to an AOD allows use of an AOD trans mount and a c-4 driveshaft yoke. If u do the tail shaft swap u will MUST do the tailshaft rear lube mod. Your c4 Driveshaft will need shortened as well. I bought a broken empty 4r70 case which was helpful for mock up being the 4r70w is. HEAVY! Most headers will not clear the shifter linkage side of trans-had to modify drivers side hooker super comp headers. In hindsight I'd used shorty headers. This guy built mine- Darrin Burch bcatransmissions.com. Also there's a series on youtube which was technically helpful. I'd suggest watching/subscribing kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2WQl359r6uDjqs

[@karlx-1]

I LOVE that car!

[@AutoRestoMod]

ME TOO!

[@travelinnate2761]

Glad I found your channel!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Welcome!

[@blakeneysanders4264]

Good video

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thank you!

[@stevenz8397]

Just done my hood springs using a tie down strap with hook on end to go onto spring, then you can pull from front of car.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yep, used that before too. I think this method works really well.

[@jsmith3065]

The real Eleanor

[@AutoRestoMod]

True.

[@michaelwelch5392]

Saw a easy way of removing hood springs using a old fan belt. Hook and pull from the front.

[@stevefowler2112]

I owned a like new '70 Mach I w/351 Clevland 4V in '74 and the air cleaner said 4V, for whatever that is worth. With headers, an Edelbrock intake, a modest lift/duration crane cam (hydraulic, we later converted it to solid) and a Holley 850 double pumper with mech secondaries, she pulled 447 BHP on a dyno.

[@johnbarker5009]

These cars are a lot more fun than I realized when I was a kid and they were relatively recent model used cars. I'd love to build a 351C, 351M, or 400 with aftermarket closed chamber heads and a decked block to get decent compression and quench. Add the right cam and appropriate 4bbl carb & manifold I think it could really surprise some people. Not so much the Cleveland version because those still have reputation but the Modified engines ALL used Cleveland 2v heads. Funny how a raised block and a bad tune make people think they have no potential.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Oh but they do. The Aussies have made hay with this engine and were the first to offer a stroked 351C (I think).

[@heavyshoesracing27]

Great video!

[@Sniperfox1]

My 1972 Mach1 had that same air filter top. Chrome with the 351-4V Regular Fuel. I had to add the Ram Air package from a wrecked 71 Boss 351. Before that, I found a top from a 302-2V Torino and flipped it and replaced my chrome top to let my Cleveland breathe better until I found a ram air hood setup. It was a noticeable difference.

[@alanwhite3280]

Back in the day the Crescent wrench was also called a Japanese socket.

[@AutoRestoMod]

HAHAHAHAHA, gonna use that.

[@johnmilner7603]

14:00 why not use a short pulley belt. Hook it on the end of the spring and pull.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Those are wicked tight springs. There was a LOT of grunt applied to get them on.

[@Mike-FoxsAbroad]

I thought I recognized you from past mustang magazines. I followed your yellow fastback as I have one as well. I have a Blue thunder intake manifold on my car. I bought a Dynacorn Ram Air cleaner base and modified it to work with the taller intake.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Right on! Glad you found us!

[@kennethstaszak9990]

I actually like the history lessons.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad to hear it!

[@MrFuroius1972]

I use a spare seat belt to remove the spring. You have to pull pretty hard but it works! Also too bad ram air limits your intake manifold selection. I have an Air Gap intake on my car. I heard you can trim the seal to make it shorter so the hood will close. I might give it a try because I want the best of both!

[@AutoRestoMod]

I'm not sure you can trim it and have it look decent. I might go with closed cell foam, use some Playdough to know what depth you need and glue that down to the air cleaner with weatherstrip adhesive.

[@yurishnirman3847]

I feel ya :( waiting sucks!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Ohhhh the waiting...

[@sunamangs]

Regarding the 351-4V air cleaner decal. That's very true, my 72 Q code with build date June 24th has that sticker. As original as original can be.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I really wish someone would reproduce the correct 4V sticker. My car too is a June build date , actually our dates on the cars are pretty close! My car had a serial number established on June 14th which is also my birthday.

[@peachyamc]

I went a step further and installed an electric vacuum switch so I can open and close my flappers when I want to. I like to keep them open most of the time.

[@richwolf7293]

Love the videos! Have you seen the Lucky Costa method of using a fan belt for hood springs? Also works great!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes I have done that before, but these are new and REALLY stiff.

[@jeffreyconstance6435]

In 1978 I traded my 1978 Mazda GLC that my parents had bought me about 6 months earlier for a used 1972 Mustang Mach 1 with the 351-2V Ram Air. It had been repainted in its original Dark Green / Argent colors and had been modified with a Mallory dual point ignition, snubber traction bars and the exhaust terminated just underneath the front seats with mufflers that were attached with coat hangers or bailing wire. I traded even for this Mach 1 and thought it was good deal. Needless to say my parents were not amused and didn’t share my thoughts of a good deal. Immediately, it had to have a complete exhaust redo. The competition clutch had to be replaced with a standard Ford unit( thank God). My left leg is still stronger than my right leg thanks to that clutch and I’m 60 years old now. Why they put a competition clutch, dual point ignition, and left the anemic 2-V carb and heads is baffling to me. Maybe they ran out of money ? My Dad put a new heater core in it ( after the winter was over) and didn’t speak to me for about a month. It was a great looking car with a new paint job but not very reliable. I had forgotten about my Mach 1 until I earn across this video. Good to finally know why the Ram Air was only available on the 351-2V which never made any sense to me.

[@pofomoco2]

Is the correct air assembly lid available somewhere?

[@pofomoco2]

It looks like a V6 Hipo air cleaner lid is the closest to the original lid stamping.

[@chrisgreenaway6696]

I believe the 72 Torino had a option for ram air

[@AutoRestoMod]

They did. Early cars had them installed, later cars had them in the trunk.

[@chrisgreenaway6696]

@@AutoRestoMod also 72 montego gts with the cyclone package

[@kingerikthegreatest.ofall.7860]

Nice car.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I love it. I've owned it since 1994.

[@kingerikthegreatest.ofall.7860]

@@AutoRestoMod that’s cool.

[@erosier6845]

I have a 1973 all original with the blue lid and 4v sticker. But I swear it's a 302 Windsor. Am I wrong?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Send me a picture. I plan on doing an ID video on the Ford small blocks vs. Cleveland. [e-mail]

[@ajw6715]

I always use a pair of vice grips and just pull the spring up and unhook it. Easy way.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Normally that works, but those NASA hoods are heave and add the extra beef for the ram air and oofda they are a handfull.

[@daniel.gilliss6030]

Use an old serpentine belt to install hood springs. A lot easier We use it also with an engine hoist to expand the springs when we respray them

[@LORISSABOOBMAN]

I had a 1 owner 72 Torino 351-4V Q Code CJ is for the cam grind same as the 428 CJ. My LID is better metal chrome not as cheap looking. I still have the lid only! I ran a 5in high open element 1 inch spacer on a 0-3310 Holley with a Torino Sport Hood i put on it.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Awesome!

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

You have a little horizontal banding going on in some shots with those new lights. Might try adjusting the exposure/shutter time to eliminate it. When I remove the springs I hook the new one on the old one then pull the hook with a bar. Or do the same but with just a piece of small rope. I'm glad you are adding the ram air. On the Chevelles I have always been annoyed when someone puts a non functional cowl hood on them. For me if its there I want it to work and on the chevelles you have that cool door that you can see opening and closing.

[@AutoRestoMod]

It is the crap lights in Studio A Those will work great in a not video situation, they suck for film. We're going to dump them and get the Metalux like in Studio B, where we shot the hood removal (we shoulda got the mMetalux to start with).

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

@@AutoRestoMod Yup I know how the lights go. Have had issues with commercial lighting too. Lots of cheap lights use a switchmode power supply which makes the light flicker faster than you can see. The better lights use constant current power supplies that basically feed full DC to the lights all the time instead of chopped up dc. usually you can change the shutter speed and eliminate it vs replacing lights.

[@Meche697]

For the spring, drum brake tool?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Maybe.

[@darrenpalmer6073]

Ford may have come to the realisation that a lotof gearheads would toss the original air cleaner for an open element style and thought why bother and just put a one style fits all on there.

[@AutoRestoMod]

LOL might be. I think what happened is the Feds wanted EACH example. Meaning the Torino (which also had a Ram Air option in 1972) with the 351 2V and 4V as well as two 429s. Ford just didn't want to play. By then they had chucked the factory support of most of the racing stuff and gone back to the mundane.

[@aswhite8116]

Hi . I have a 1973 351 2v that was a factory ram air which unfortunately has been removed. I want to put it back to original and have purchased the ram air setup . My question is what carb would have been original on this . I have found a 1974 motorcraft D4AE DA but the new air cleaner base hits the choke . Do I need a spacer or is there a full diagram on the setup . Cheers

[@aguyinnc2865]

Love the videos on this car, I have a '73 Mach 1, same color scheme as yours except, of course, for the stripes. Fortunately, mine was already restored, but had been sitting up for a few years when I got it. It is factory stock, with the 351C 2V, that runs good now, however I'll not be winning any races! I plan on taking it to more car shows this year, it's not perfect but is a great looking driver. Won first place Mustang at a local event last year. Leaving it stock for now, but visions of mods keep running through my head. I was 16 when this car was new, but couldn't buy one back then. I've retired, so me and the wife will be enjoying feeling 16 again. Would love more power in the future, does NPD carry mods for this engine? Not sure whether to stick with the 2V heads or try to find some 4V versions. and then there is the cam. Thanks for the videos!

[@lilibethdoherty295]

I was always amazed how fast these sold in 1980 when I was trying to buy one , I ended up buying a 68 cougar for $250 and had to replace all of the wiring in the Engine bay to get it running . Still 42 years later always looking for a blue with silver stripes 71 to 73 Mach 1.

[@curtisimo032]

I would definitely replace those metric fasteners with SAE.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Definitely doing that.

[@larryatkinson3325]

Hey can I get a set for my 73 and how!

[@speedyspike466]

Would this fit on a 302 Windsor?

[@richardpratts6976]

Hi Jeff question did Ford make a 1972 Mach 1 convertible I've been seeing online is this a tribute to the Mach 1 or just a convertible with the Mach 1 stripes because I know all Mach 1s are fastback is this real or fake!! Thanks love all your videos Rich from Florida!! 😎👍

[@AutoRestoMod]

In 1972 Ford had a striped package available for the coupes and the convertibles that was the same stripe as the Mach 1 without the Mach 1 name. Sadly It kind of took a lot of the jazz from the Mach. Of course the71-73 Mach 1 was available with the 302 as a base engine so…. dot

[@jessemontgomery60]

Use Hair Spray for a sealer. It will hold the rubber down without melting it.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Like it!

[@williamrose8944]

Why not use the new style with the top is an air element too , you'll get more Air in as an air filter . I'm going to do that with my Shaker Scoop air through the top straight into the carb.

[@jondavis7058]

Did let Jackson out of the trunk yet?

[@SifsSwag]

Great video….we didnt see it work though…

[@desertduck4177]

Jeff, is this car… Lazarus?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Sadly yes. Lazarus fell on hard times for a good while. And some of the things we did (like dipping) did a major disservice to it.

[@desertduck4177]

@@AutoRestoMod I loved and still love to this day, the ginger interior in Lazarus! The magazine articles helped me fall in love with this car. Did you ever find the interior door pieces you were hunting for it? Good times in the late 90’s early 2000’s…. Took my wife and newborn daughter to a Pony Trail in Seattle in 2001. Fond memories! Thanks, Jeff!

[@LORISSABOOBMAN]

I think all 73-74 4 bbl clevelands had 2 v heads.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I believe you're right, though they were actually 4V heads with 2V valves Making them the worst of both possible worlds.

[@LORISSABOOBMAN]

@@AutoRestoMod Bob Glidden seemed really happy after he massaged it really nice all the way to the very top of Pro Stock

[@gdelfs6942]

I have never seen a 72 HO engine. Has anyone else?

[@1972mercurycougar]

Q code Cougars in '72,'73, we're on build sheet as "CJ" yes, really . Broadcast sheet, whatever.

[@stephenhotzjustdriveit]

Sounds like the mfg needs to change the hardware. I have bought parts that bolt was a 5/16 bolt and a metric head. Pet peave for me.

[@AutoRestoMod]

The bolts go away. It uses the self tappers.

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Hey Jeff can't understand why you had such a hard time with the hood springs, flat screw driver, so fast you wpuld think I did some sort of magic trick, also I ran a nasa hood with stock springs, never new the difference, just sayin. Thanks

[@AutoRestoMod]

I use the flat and the Philips screwdriver trick too...on springs that are not as hefty as these. I tried that first in fact.

[@gdelfs6942]

Has anyone seen a 1972 HO? I’ve read and heard of it.....never seen one....

[@RealWorldGarage]

Supply chain man. 🤦‍♂️

[@AutoRestoMod]

Word.

[@hiitsstillme]

Hmmm. We cringed watching you pry those springs off; that's dangerous work. When we worked in the trade many years ago, we had a special bar for that job.

[@AutoRestoMod]

The old springs were not bad. The new springs were tough!

[@chrisrye9128]

Forced child labor is a parent's divine right. ;) haha

[@AutoRestoMod]

The funny thing is I usually don't have to force them lol.

[@chrisrye9128]

@@AutoRestoMod that's a good thing. Indoctrination success!

[@shanechostetler9997]

Those metric bolts are a bit underwhelming as to trying to be remotely period correct. Too bad more people aren’t detailed oriented.

[@clevelandmaker386]

I'm going to offend some people... Honda cut a deal with Saudis that caused the gas crunch!!! So you won't get blown in the nearby ditch by a 429 Cobra Jet

[@AutoRestoMod]

LOL!

[@gerrywood3584]

no need to change spring

[@AutoRestoMod]

That depends on the Spring. If your car isn't a Mach 1 with the ram air originally the springs are not heavy enough. The flat-wound springs are required for the Mach 1.