I've repaired a P1A15 fault before. Your explanation of the fault is extremely clear. Thank you for making this video!
@Roliks-i2h10 күн бұрын
Good video, deserved like from me❤
@toyotaprius7911 күн бұрын
o7 to you and gregg
@davidharvey516110 күн бұрын
I’m surprised at how much rust there is on what looks like the rear sub-frame. 🤔
@okinawajapan111 күн бұрын
What a wonderful video! Such a clear explanation of the basics and a solution shared. Wonderful. Thank you! Love your videos.
@garyc44509 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@martinwinlow8 күн бұрын
I've done 2 of these repairs, now, but used the £0.06 2 x 1MR resistor method instead. Both cars still running fine. It'll be interesting to see how long they continue to. I also read recently that someone has done this repair without removing the inverter from the car (I assume they had to disconnect the cooling pipes at least) just undoing the main 4 (?) bolts to release the box from the sub frame, flip it over, remove the bottom (now top) cover and solder in-situ... Sounds doable but a bit awkward for such a fiddly job whilst leaning into the boot...
@garyc44508 күн бұрын
It is really not recommended to use the resistor bodge. That method skews the reading upwards and usually too high, this may mean the car has an insulation fault where hv is connected to the car’s body and the precharge fails due to the hv drain but the car thinks precharge is successful and as well as arcing the contactors could cause a dangerous situation. I’m not sure if you’re a diyer or EV mechanic but my liability insurance (and conscience) certainly wouldn’t be happy with that method. Cheers