My 4Runner is squeaking: Fix a squeak in the steering area of engine (tools & steps & notes below)

My 2008 4Runner (126k miles) began squeaking during a cross-country road trip, while in the OBX (island of NC coast), on a Saturday afternoon. To say there were no services available would be generous. Luckily, a light never came on and when a diagnosis was later done no codes popped.
After much research, I found a suggestion to pump brakes, clean the threads and replace the o-ring, from Your Car Guy Dr. At the time, all I could do was pump the brakes, I did that and the sound stopped for a couple thousand miles. Then it returned, with the angry vengeance of a disturbed mouse- still no lights or codes. Then stopped for a bit and then returned. FinalIy, I surrendered to the screech and ordered an o-ring and got to work (132k miles).
Here's how I fixed it (took about 15 minutes).
Tools & Steps:
Tools:
17mm socket with medium extender
Cheater bar (hollow pipe about 18' long, optional)
Clean rags
Parts:
Brake fluid
47950F- o-ring (the only part I ordered and all that needed replacing, $4.87)
Instructions:
Disassembly and cleaning:
1. With car off and the engine cool, pump brakes 15-20 times. This releases the pressure in the line and keeps you from being sprayed or worse (fluid can cut skin under enough pressure) with brake fluid. DO this!
2. Locate accumulator under the hood. Attach ratchet with extender and socket to the top of accumulator and unscrew (lefty loosy, righty tighty). It will likely be really tight- factory part and all- so you can place a cheater bar over the ratchet handle to increase leverage. Wish I had filmed this- next time!
3. Once the accumulator releases, you'll be able to twist it off by hand. Lift off carefully, the check tube and spring will be in the reservoir space that the accumulator fits into.
4. Remove the check tube and spring- clean with a rag dipped in brake fluid, examine for damage. If damaged, replace, but they should be ok. Set on clean rag.
4. Remove the o-ring from the accumulator (you may need tweezer or needle nose pliers for this), being careful not to scrape or ding the threads of the accumulator.
5. Gently clean off the threads with a rag that you've dipped in brake fluid. Replace the o-ring with a new ring that you've lubed with brake fluid.
Reassembly:
1. *Ensure there are NO filaments or detritus of any kind* on any of the parts.
2. Place spring on tube, gently insert into accumulator. Ensure o-ring is evenly situated in its spacer area. Hold finger on bottom of tube so it doesn't fall out and gently place back into female fitting area. Carefully screw back into place. Tighten down by hand.
3. WITHOUT TURNING ON THE VEHICLE. Pump the brakes again about 15 times. You should feel the usual pressure come back online.
4. Double check your fluids, top off if necessary, and you should be good to go.
If brakes feel soft, you may need to bleed the lines. I would have to google that, too :-).
Hope this helps some folks!
To note, I I am not a certified mechanic, this is just my personal experience.
Other parts for reference:
47955A- check tube (aka pipe, $2.33)
90015-AY001- the spring (aka Piston Return Spring $2.27)
4795030010- brake accumulator (aka oh shit, codes have pinged and the dealership says it's needed $462)
#accumulator #4Runnersqueaks #2008Toyota #4Runner #squeakingtruck

[@encinobalboa]

Early 4th gen accumulator is different design. It cannot be removed without taking out complete ABS/master cylinder unit.

[@bebeslife4519]

I was wondering why my 2004 doesn’t have a hex nut on top of the accumulator

[@muhammadishaq6780]

Thank you Issue fixed for my car.

[@olamabambi4193]

Thanks for video did any brake fluid come out when you removed high pressure accumulator.

[@spreadyourdreams]

I don’t recall fluid coming out, but, it wasn’t dry.

[@olamabambi4193]

@@spreadyourdreams thank you kindly for your reply. Mine operates normally and there is no engine code but when it operates its a very loud chirping noise for a few seconds but it dose not continue to operate every five seconds like yours. So I might try what you did by changing the o ring. So you did not need to lubricate the the spring and plunger ? I watched another channel that advised that if you put air pressure into the accumulator with an air gun with a rubber sealing tip and it takes some air in then the accumulator needs replacing. If you try to put air into the accumulator and it dose not accept any the diaphragm and nitrogen charge inside is good and accumulator is working properly. When I watched your video your noise was very quiet and normal sounding. So now after your repair is it dead quiet? Thanks in advance for your help you can reply when you have time. Also feel free to ask me any questions you may have about your car. Thank you Kati.

[@ro7ssea]

thank you

[@MdRoni-yp2xb]

Thanks your vdo

[@lin018]

That sounds cute

[@markanthony2873]

I heard a hiss too in your car thats what i have...every 5 seconds

[@AL_0401]

I’m having this problem too. Did you ever fix it? If so what was the problem?

[@markanthony2873]

@AL_0401 the hiss is my abs pump