Low Brake Pedal ? It's not air in the system...

I find binding caliper pins on my Toyota Sienna.
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#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny
#brakeadjustment #brakepads #brakecaliper
brake adjustment brake pads brake caliper brake pedal soft brake pedal low brake pads seized brake caliper seized

[@Rtb666]

2weeks without driving and trying to find out the problem after bleeding the brakes 20times.... This video made my whole day. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@billymason8033]

Me too! Been riding a bike to work! 😂

[@ELECTROMARINEMANIA]

I too

[@billylongley9580]

Very important detail most people never do .. always make sure caliper pins are cleaned and greased and move freely

[@TheKhwailed]

I've been having brake issues with my car *spongey brakes* for months, watched tens of videos, untill I saw this video and the problem was solved! God bless you Mr. Kenny.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Glad it helped !! Thanks for watching !!

[@wendyeesue]

Didn't all them other videos you say you watched say the same thing as this video did to solve the problem?

[@TheKhwailed]

@@wendyeesue youtube is full of tons of vids about a certain topic. I've watched alot, but this one was very "specific" about the issue that my car had.

[@wendyeesue]

Im currently having the same issue as in THIS VIDEO.. after watching a couple other videos too. Is their any place that checks brakes first for free then gives you the problem and cost after checking it? @@TheKhwailed

[@TheKhwailed]

@@wendyeesue I'm sorry. I don't know about that. I'm a DIYer, and I just watch vids, and fix my car. Somtimes it costs me nothing!

[@bearpuf]

I appreciate your video very much. You have a really fine informative delivery giving details to how, what, and why you are doing for each step in dealing with sticking slide pins and how to get them back into normal movement. It makes the view enjoyable as well as teachable. Thanks very much.

[@neilbeni7744]

Awesome diagnosis 👊💥😁 Makes a lot of sense... Thank you..

[@luvkountry]

Great information. I will check out the potential faults mentioned in your video. Thank you for sharing this information. I appreciate it.

[@johncowhig7196]

I really liked your video. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience on the mushy brake pedal. I feel I picked up some knowledge on this matter. I'm not a car mechanic, I'm a security guard who owns a 2017 Toyota camry. I would love to fix problems on my car when they arise and I love your step by step teaching on this problem. Keep them coming.

[@ChuddleBuggy]

Great video! You've demystified one of the thousands of automotive discombobulators out there.

[@DCPHONEGUY]

THANK YOU KENNY, you saved me from making the mistake of replacing the master cylinder. The front brakes on my 2012 Yaris are disks and my issue was like yours except the problem was worse, I have just over 100K on the original Toyota pads and I don't know if the problem was original to the manufacture of the car or someone did something to the brakes but one boot on the passenger side on one pin was pulled off and that pin was rusted in pretty solid. I was finally able to break it loose, clean off all the rust and lube it up to where it felt normal again. The inside pad had more wear as you stated but after fixing that pin and lubing up the other all is well again. Not really in the rust belt, we are in Maryland. You saved me a couple hundred dollars for a new master cylinder and a lot of work that would not have fixed the problem. You are da man.

[@GnosisMan50]

THANK YOU for making and sharing this video. I have exactly the same symptoms in my Mazda MPV for a long time. This is the kind of problem most mechanics will not make efforts to find out it’s underlying cause. I look forward to having mine fixed ASAP

[@user-ne3ur2bc7g]

I chased it for a week on an Audi. GREAT VIDEO. One of the BEST on DYI

[@cliffweinan3907]

Just did your suggestion yesterday on my 86 Mazda, clean and fresh grease caliper mount bushings. Caliper must be free floating for normal pad to disc clearance under light braking. Definitely improved brake feel. Thanks again pal!

[@ramishrambarran3998]

Great Kenny ! I now know how to fix my problem ! Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.

[@vdub-rc7ll]

You've just cleared my 2 week headache and a ton of $$! I honestly can't thank you enough for this video. For me it was the slider pins and possibly a shim that had come loose. Thanks again!

[@steveb7310]

I’ve seen this problem many times, since I’m in the Rust Belt. What I like to do in this case is remove the caliper bracket and wire brush the pad contact points, then just a touch of brake grease on them along with cleaning and re-lubing the slides. Never had a comeback after that. Good video bro, great detail.

[@dannykimble7671]

Dow & corning make a special grease for slider pins, it’s for minimal movement applications like slider pins, when things don’t move much in normal use they seize up & normal grease drys out & is like glue.

[@georgecraft007]

My VW TDI Jetta wagon had a low pedal problem. It was a seized park brake cable that caused the problem. The adjusters were seized on the rear calipers because I never used the park brake. Once the caliper adjusters and park brake cable were repaired, the low pedal problem was gone. I had the dreaded death wobble on the front end of my 1996 Cummins diesel pickup. On a smooth surface the truck performed normally but if it hit any sort of bump on the road, the front left tire would violently shake to the point that I thought the truck was going to fall apart. After years of trying to diagnose this problem, I discovered that the rear right park brake cable was seized. I replaced the cable and the death wobble was gone. I never in a million years would have believed that a seized park brake cable could cause the death wobble but it did.

[@wd8dsb]

Exact same problem I had been chasing on my 1996 Saturn Wagon a few years ago and finally stumbled upon the root cause of the issue. Nowhere could I find info about seized up guide pins causing a soft brake situation so it’s nice to see you published a video that discusses this issue.

[@wigletron2846]

Thanks for the video. I'm dealing with a Subaru with soft brakes that's never had the system opened. I'll give this a shot.

[@heisenfeis]

I do this every tire change winter and summer up north. I also remove the rust on the tabs/ears of the brake pads and lube them a little so they also slide nicely with guide pins lubed up too. I also use silicone on the piston and clean it and press it in so I know they work as intended and are not stuck. I also put some grease on the piston metal lip and on the claws/tooth on the outside caliper facing the pad. Result so far over the years is completely even wear and a nice brake pedal, no squeaks, I also know how worn my pads are with 6 months roughly increments. Thank you Kenny good advice as always

[@matthewkincaid1240]

Your video has been a lot of help, thank you. My car is having the same issue it sounds like to where the pedal goes to the floor almost on first press then stuff like it should be on the second press. It's a relief to know that this may be the resolution. A mechanic diagnosed it as being the booster without touching anything. Doesn't sound like a booster issue according to my research. Thanks again!

[@joehovanec1985]

Thank you for sharing this information with us. It will come in handy.

[@nightdipper5178]

Great info and video, I you saved me a lot of time. I would have dived into bleeding first, but the pads were worn uneven and they were stuck. Cleaned and lubed all is good. Thanks!

[@dominickserignese8837]

My Honda accord does that! I'm gonna check those pins.thanks Kenny!

[@johncamesano5844]

informative video! Thanks Kenny.

[@kevinoneill41]

Thanks for the video and narrative. Good job.

[@kennymichaud5366]

Thank you for the info!!!

[@ronald5728]

Excellent video. I think you've highlighted the problem I have with my CRV which is also from upstate NY. The brakes feel soft and low. The video "Brake Caliper Slider Pin Grease - How Much is Too Much ?" explains why you should not pack the pin with too much grease, especially the tip of the pin. This prevents the pin from going in fully and the grease also acts as a buffer.

[@crodz530]

I learned something today. Thanks!

[@todaywithtom]

You are my hero. Just did my brakes and have an intermittent spongy pedal. Its and old car and I didn't clean the pins. Back to the garage.

[@RobertViani]

Great vid. Just did my front brakes. One of the slide pins needed a boat load of motivation to free up. But we got er' done. New sub here.

[@luiscarrasquillo9743]

I got the same issue with my 2008 Honda Odyssey, tried everything but not sure if I’ve done this! Will give it a try. 👍🏼

[@jasonchristopher2977]

I use a drill bit a size smaller in reverse. Cleans them out well. Also a brush for cleaning handgun barrels works well also. Most are about 9mm or so. U can pick up a set of brushes cheap.

[@greenfield1944]

good video, I had that happen on a Tundra and the dealer put on new rotors and pads. What they told me didn't make sense as there was not many miles on it but it set around a lot.

[@bmwm31230]

Changed all my pads and front calipers on my 2005 G35 but left the old rear calipers. The pistons were rusty but wasn’t ceased up. I did take out the pins and regreased them but still the old ones. Bled the lines until no air on the lines. After test driving it I noticed that I have to pump twice fir the breaks to bite good. You think its the pins? I plan to just replaced rear calipers to new.

[@andyrodriguez7186]

Thanks for the excellent job.

[@emiliog.4432]

Wow. You have a lift in your garage? Awesome. Good info. It’s a good idea to rehab the calipers once a year or 18 months.

[@lot931]

I lube the pins, more to the front of the pins and it spreads out the grease when I push it into the caliper. I never put lube in the hole per se, if just cakes up and make them hard to slide. Too much lube is one of the reasons for a stuck caliper pin. And the type of lube is important, also. Enjoyed the video.

[@WilliamIsted]

Thank you for this video. I was about to bleed the brakes on my Astra and this makes far more sense as to what might be the issue. I'm not a mechanic so just being pointed in the right direction is a huge help for time and sanity!

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I hope it helped !!

[@llroman7823]

Mr. Kenny, now you really have me scratching my head. Ha! I've watched tons of videos prior to yours telling me it is the master brake cylinder. But I've never bled my brakes. Never opened lines on cylinder either. Right now, I pretty much have no brakes. Pedal going to the floor and pump it three times to get car to stop. Do you think it is the pins and not master brake cylinder? 2000 Camry. I may try the pins prior to doing anything else. @@WrenchingWithKenny

[@kelsycunningham8452]

​@@llroman7823hopefully you've found the problem and had it repaired. If the master cylinder reservoir has no fluid in it, the system has a leak and your pushing air. If the reservoir has fluid then the master cylinder is shot. Either way you've been driving a death trap.

[@leftylou6070]

You know what I like about you Buddy? You my friend, are not afraid to get your hands dirty. I see so many Pretty Boy Mechanic Apprentices on KZbin head for the throw away latex gloves before they go a wrenchin' and put them on, as if they were gonna catch some kinda of disease from what they are working on. I just grin and bear it. I never wore those things, I can only imagine they would be more of a hindrance than a help. I used to just keep a container of Go-Jo and a toothbrush for the nails handy and that was it. Anyway, a big Thanks for all the fine Videos you've been putting out for us to watch. They are very helpful, and a big thumbs up to you!

[@deanyanko3326]

their wives don't want grease all over the house.

[@gregoryblair9810]

Glad I found this! My 05 Kia Sorento has started to do the same thing. Guess I missed that part when I redid my brakes.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Many people overlook this . Especially if you're not immersed in auto repairs everyday. Easy to not think about

[@JustBrakes777]

Great Video. Great information. Loved it.

[@CertifiedSped94]

Thanks for the video! So, I’ll need a new caliper and rotor? I have a 99 Chevy S10 and I see I think break fluid leaking from the left back area near the tire. I don’t know if it’s the wire gone bad or if I need a new caliper and rotor.

[@naeemmuhammad5876]

Nice step by step explained

[@fixitman2174]

The black grease is only for the back and ends of the pads . It will thicken up over time, and should not be used on slides. Only use a silicone based lube on the slides, such as Sil-Glyde.

[@aboveaero]

Huh? You use them on the slide pins too, right? They are meant to be used for the slides.

[@fixitman2174]

@@aboveaero The synthetic black grease is supposed to thicken over time. It's made that way so it won't melt off the surfaces it's applied to. That is great for the metal parts of the pads, not for the slide pins. Silicone based grease (like Sil-Glide) won't thicken, making it great for slide pins.

[@gregsantos9731]

Exactly

[@brynnond.6952]

This might explain my sponges pedal, every so often my pedal starts to get sponges and if I press the pedal to the floor and release then my pedal becomes firm again and stays that way for a few weeks or so and becomes spongy again

[@frotobaggins7169]

"Only use a silicon based lube on the slides, such as Sil-Glyde." You mean silicone, not silicon. A silicone or polysiloxane is a polymer made up of siloxane They are typically colorless oils or rubber-like substances. Silicon (Si) is a light chemical element that combines with oxygen and other elements to form silicates. Silicon in the form of silicates constitutes more than 25% of the Earth's crust. Silica (SiO2) as quartz or quartzite is used to produce silicon ferroalloys and silicon metal.

[@bigjoe6528]

I had a Camaro do the same thing . Both rear calipers on my car. Replaced calipers fixed it😊. Good video

[@ztzozm]

Thank you, so well done.

[@mainsfortes5778]

Thanks for the tips

[@mikebavoso26]

Thank you for comfirming my findings I have a new Ford that had this pedel problem, plus the sticky caliber. The local Ford dealership wanted to rebuild the transmission (15,000 miles) telling me it was in reverse and forward at the same time. We don't go there anymore. The caliper pins were all dry as a bone, I removing the pins, doing what you've demonstrated and greasing fix the problem.

[@emmanuelbaloyi9883]

Exactly my problem. Thanks for the video

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thanks for watching!

[@roadtaco3924]

Thank you. Believe this is issue with my 2013 RAV4. Will check out soon. Happy Holidays.

[@davidbrewer7937]

Good explanation, sounds like the problem I have... Just waiting for the ground to dry up (soft driveway) a bit so I can investigate. The vehicle has spent most of it's time in the last year parked as I have a company service truck so sticking caliper(s) sounds very likely. Another clue is that I now have a bit of wobble when I brake lightly...

[@amerlin388]

Q-tips for cleaning and greasing. I suspect you don't want to pack so much grease, but would like to hear from a consensus of mechanics. If the 'ears' on the brake pads are too tight a fit, I've ground a bit off the sides to allow pads to travel freely. I had an Elantra with uneven brake pad wear and the replacement brakes were strangely too thick to fit over the rotor. I matched up the less worn old brake pad with the new 1-2 years then installed the other new pad.

[@sesolar5854]

Excellent video. Have a 96 Chevy Express van thats alway had spongy brakes even after many bleedings. If this turns out to be the reason i owe you one!

[@mwngw]

Rav4s are known for low brake pedals, especially and mysteriously after pad replacement...for no apparent reason. There are guys on the Toyota forum pulling their hair out for this suddenly appearing low pedal, which is then about halfway to the floor than before the repair. I'm going to check all these caliper pins on my Rav, otherwise I'm going to have to replace all brake hardware including rotors. Great vid, btw.

[@donshields4470]

Great video! Thanks Kenny.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thanks for watching! Keep wrenching 🔧

[@nickbrunette8292]

Great video thanks for this

[@Grumpy-sy7wr]

Thanks for this one Kenny. My pedal has been getting lower over time, no notable fluid loss, so will definitely have a look at these. I got so deep into watching closely, as you sprayed the brake clean at 6:10, I moved my head and watched the screen at a slight angle 😂

[@abitoffcenter383]

We've all done it 😁😆

[@anthonygasparini1734]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@nickl2548]

Your a god send, no mechanic can figure out this problem, replace master cylinder I've told. It's not. This is the problem. Thanks.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

You are welcome !!

[@wes326]

Learned something new. Thanks for sharing.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching the channel & keep wrenching 🔧

[@michaelrickman1000]

Great video you answered my question,awesome thanks!

[@adamrich2924]

Had this exact issue on my truck for a while now. Watched the video and tore into it the next day and sure enough had one rear pin froze solid and an inner pad stuck on the other side. Solved my problem.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

That's awesome!

[@jimpie231]

Great video! I noticed you put the slide pins with the flat spots on the bottom, does this matter? What about Hondas, flat spot pins on top or bottom? Thanks…Jim

[@rev.randall2292]

Same problem with 97 chevy 1500 4x4. Would pump , too slow releasing. Get in town lots of stop and go was bad news , finaly out on dirt road , just crossed highway , didnt release and almost got one side in flames . Pads were not bad realy , rotor not bad couldnt tell a warp after dumping a bottle of water I happened to have when it got hot. Im still fighting the dumb things.

[@selftaopath]

Hey Kenny. Enjoyed your video. I have a 2002 Toyota Hilux 4D4. I don't have these bolts on my brake system. Got any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[@williampierce5615]

I use a properly sized drill bit. By hand to clean bore out. Brake clean also of course.

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great video. Thank you for sharing

[@gsprof9788]

Get bore brushes for cleaning firearms, their made of brass with brake clean you can scrub those bracket holes out good. As others said you can also take a drill bit if you have a good set of drill bits with odd sizes you can save a bracket just don’t overbore the hole. Last don’t overfill the hole with lube you can hydraulic the pin, work that pin in/out till it moves freely purging any air trapped in there. Put a good layer of brake lube on the inside of those boots to help seal them from water infiltration. Very good video help explains how a caliber moves not many people get that.

[@retiredhappy466]

Thanks for the video. This is my problem. Now I can fix this issue once the weather improves.

[@dennyj8650]

A big help! Will be nice, to be able to fix it myself instead of waiting for a shop to have an opening, and forking out $$.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Keep me posted !! I love to hear how things work out !!

[@wilsont1010]

@@WrenchingWithKenny The pedal is not airy when the vehicle is at rest but super spongy when it's running. Despite sinking almost all the way down, it actually works super well and the grip sets in just right in the middle. It seems to me that this does not match with the description of this video. I wonder if it is the master cylinder issue, or something else, but what can that be?

[@bcruder1]

Just today, I found BOTH of the inside pads on my wife's outback worn out with the outside pads barely worn. The hidden side of both front disks was badly scored. I had followed bad advice to use anti-seize on the sliding guide pins. It caused the black rubber inserts on the guide pins to swell enough to lock them. I feared that I would have to replace the sliding caliper brackets but eventually found a puller to remove the pins. After new disks, pads, pins, and rubber seals, I will only use silicone grease.

[@ericpfister9059]

Best thing I got for my shop for stuff like that was a cheap gun cleaning set 20ga wire brush fits great and cleans it really good just something to think about if you already have one

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I used to have a kit also . When I moved from NY to NC , it got misplaced somewhere.. Thanks for watching !!

[@dougwigginton3983]

Excellent. thank you

[@HerbertAtkinson]

I have had this happen as well on my daughters 2017 camry le with little bit difference of a problem but yet had that effect of having to pump the brakes little more so to stop so I changed the front brakes week earlier then did the back ones recently, after i removed the guide slide pins i notice the bottom pin on one side had a worn plastic bushing that wraps around the bottom pin that was worn down that only half of the bushing was left, i didnt have a new bushing at the time to install on the pin but recently picked up a six piece kit that auto zone sells for under 6$, toyotas have a bushing that goes around the bottom of each pin on all calipers why that is i dont know but its there for a reason, nonetheless it resolved the brake issue.

[@robintraina217]

nice info on brakes and pads and pins

[@randallstewart8487]

To clean the slider pin bores better,a gun barrel cleaning brush works great on any small bore for me,closed or open! If I dont have slider pin grease available I just use never seize on the pin bores! Thanks Kenny!

[@THEoriginaljmelford]

On older vehicles that only have drum brakes, having to pump the brakes means the master cylinder seals are worn and fluid is bypassing the seals. So in order to get enough volume to the brake cylinders you have to pump the brakes. I remember as a child our 1937 Chevy had that problem. Lefty

[@abruptlyblunt]

Sil-Glide from napa is another good grease for caliper slides also harbor freights engine brush kit can be a life saver for cleaning out things like caliper slides.....

[@lawrenceessard4086]

Good information ill try my brakes thanks😊😊😊

[@richroc7]

Hey brother I just want to thank you for doing this video and I stumbled across it by accident but I hope it fixes my problem. Only difference is that I feel and hear something with the abs when I depress the brake pedal but only for the first 15 minutes and then the brakes act normal but I am double pumping it. I’m a father of four and my wife and three sons are disabled. We are poor as poor can be and only one person is getting assistance so it’s not like we have three grand in SSI coming in every month. I’ve put so much money into this 2007 pathfinder. O2 sensor, cat converter, crankshaft sensor, mid exhaust pipe, spark plugs, coil #3, I now need coil #1 and a new muffler. I knew how to do some things and I have tools but I had to learn how to remove the intake manifold and that was scary. I’m trying my best but every time I fix something another thing goes wrong. I know that that’s how it is when you own a car but damn I wish there weren’t so many components to these cars. Why can’t they make them like the 60’s with simplicity. They want us to be forced to bring it to the dealership or garage and spend more money after we paid thousands of dollars for the vehicle 😩. Sorry I got to ranting 😂

[@danielbob7769]

Thanks for the video. I never thought that thing should be causing a soft pedal up to a lower point where the brake is hard. I have this kind of problem after a rear calippers rebuild, proper bleeding using power bleeder and no chance to succes. I drive with this problem and from what I remember, all the pins are moving freely. So I'm thinking the piston dust boot may push the piston back. I will check both scenarios and take a look to hole brake calippers and pads too Thanks again!

[@Dead-Goldstar]

Thanks great video I just did the parking brake shoes and only compressed the piston back together the slipper off didn’t touch the calliper pins because they they have torque T55 on them and I didn’t have the tool. I put it back together and now I’m getting a Service brake system message and the pedal feels spongey as well I’m going to take it apart again and check the slider pins and see if that fixes the issue.👍

[@sivuthamam3395]

Thank you for making a video I have 2005 Avalon do the same thing let try do like you

[@wolfdaddy7098]

Straight to the point, all business and right on the money. Great vid.

[@russoft]

thanks for this. I had to brake hard and after that my brake pedal felt wrong. I assumed a burst brake line but braking kept working and no fluid on the ground, reservoir was fine. I did do a brake job recently and reused a torn boot because I didn't have time to replace it when I noticed the tear and figured I'd do it later. I doubt a guide pin would have already seized, but I'll check this out. I was going to bleed my brakes but I don't know how air would have gotten in them. I've heard the fluid can boil during braking, since it absorbs moisture over time...

[@wouterkellerman4458]

And there i learn something. Thank you!

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching!

[@steveroge3768]

I am an old school Mechanic I just watched you Video I have very similar problem with my 2020 4 runner some times I step on the break and the pedal sinks lower, In my mind it remined me of a bad master I pump it a second time and its fine. only happens randomly. I can not seem to duplicate it. your video gave me some incite where to look Thanks you..

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I hope the video helped. I have two Facebook pages. Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics. Make sure you answer all the questions to join ByMs. If you get stuck on a project, you can get some advice there too. Thanks for watching!

[@mrkttrdr2919]

good insight to uneven braking solution, one problem, packing the pin hole with grease will create uneven wear also as the grease keeps the pin from its full travel, a little dab will do ya

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Great point!

[@pcho3740]

Yes , too much grease may cause hydro locking..

[@midiman5045]

Great tips!

[@loridurler2684]

Thank u I’m going to look into it on my Tahoe truck

[@markk3652]

I use a combination of nickel anti seize thinned out with aerokroil. The anti seize is rated for up to 2400 degrees, and the aerokroil keeps it thin enough to make sure it doesn't cake up with time or low temperatures.

[@kenmorgan9528]

Purchased a 99 Suburban a few months ago and from the receipts supplied by the previous owner the brakes had been maintained less than one year previously. But for some reason the car was pulling to the right when the brakes were applied. Upon further inspection I found that the slide pins had been installed without the rubber dust boots and whatever grease had been applied had combined with the brake dust to form a glue-like substance that had seized up the slide pins. I had to press the slide pins out with a C-clamp, clean the bores with a rotary brush, wire wheeled the pins and re-inserted them with silicone grease and new dust boots. Now the old car will stop on a dime and leave 8 cents change.

[@bogdanmichalek8466]

,q❤

[@MichaelPoage666]

I've got an Explorer Sport Trac I just bought and the one issue I've noticed is soft brakes and a low pedal. I just noticed today that even after driving about 50 miles that the outer disc, that you can feel with the wheels still on the car, are kind of rough and rusty. I'm pretty sure the pins are seized up.

[@abitoffcenter383]

I've been fighting a sorta soft pedal for awhile now. Although the pins are not the problem. When I got the truck the pass rear brake line was completely gone. Apparently someone had high sided it in a ditch. So the driveshaft was bent (It's aluminum), no rear brakes, transfer case had exploded and was in a box, transmission housing was cracked the output shaft all the way to the bell housing, and various other things. I replumed the rear brake lines with new lines. It had really soft brakes once I got it running again. So I pulled out the old parts cannon. I replaced the booster, master cylinder, cylinders, drums, and shoes on the rear, and new calipers, rotors and pads in the front. As far as brakes go. There's a VAST improvement from before. It's safe to drive and all and you can come to a solid stop w/o pumping them. But if you pump them once, the brakes are THERE right away!! Which is how it should be for all the work and parts I've put into them. My next course of action is going to be power (pressure) bleeding them.

[@thomasdaum1927]

And you bought this vehicle , why ?…….

[@neilmcmanus3727]

Excellent presentation, good explanation, good lighting, and good attitude ! I hit subscribe ... one of those obscure details in making sure all components are free and doing their job. I noticed the same soft brake pedal that just started to manifest, I looked all around, no apparent leaks, brake pad material ok, just a bit uncertain what to do, buy new calipers ? .. no first thing now check the the caliper brace. Mahalo nut loa !

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Check the caliper bracket pins to see if any of them are seized up. Thanks for your sub & watching the channel. Keep wrenching

[@charlesb7831]

Go to a sporting goods store that sells bore brush kits for cleaning firearms or buy the appropriate size one and the handle for it to clear it out! Works fantastic!

[@dwaka08]

The weird scenarios are the best to hear !!

[@9011combo]

Thank you

[@normcarguy4571]

Thanks great idea