My Cheap 1940 Chevy Coupe had HIDDEN PROBLEMS and Secret Treasures!

[@Vetteman372]

you're having difficulty getting your engine to idle, give this a try. • Warm up to operating temp. • With Trans in neutral turn Idle control OFF. • Check idle speed, adjust the throttle blades to meet your desired idle. • Note the VAC value on the calibration module. • Go to fuel Modifiers and find the RPM and VAC setting closest to your current Idle and VAC readings. • Slowly add or subtract fuel until you get the best idle quality. • Readjust idle speed with blade adjustment screw to desired idle. • Again, note the VAC value on the calibration module. • Go to spark Modifiers and find the RPM and VAC setting closest to your current Idle and VAC readings. • Slowly add or subtract spark until you get the best idle quality. • Readjust idle speed with blade adjustment screw to desired idle, if necessary. • Turn Idle Control back on. There should be very little, if any, change to the idle speed with Idle Control either ON or OFF at Idle, in neutral. • Save changes to Position A in the calibration module. After that is done, drop the trans into gear. You should see a slight drop in idle speed and then the Idle control should bring it back to the desired speed. If you get any surging or erratic idle do the following; • Note the lowest RPM during the surging and the average VAC readings. • Return the trans to neutral. • Turn off Closed Loop Control. • Go into the Fuel modifiers and find the RPM and VAC settings closest to the values noted above. • Add 10% fuel. • Put trans back into gear and see if the surging has gotten better or worse. • If better, go back and add or subtract fuel until you get the highest VAC and a stable idle. Same goes if the surge is worse. • When you are satisfied with the results, turn closed loop back ON and save changes to position A again. Here are some things to keep in mind; • You must save your changes before turning the ignition ON/OFF. If they are not saved, they will be erased when you restart. • The ECU always starts in position A. you must save the changes to position A for them to do anything. You can save your current tune into B or C and restore them if you want. They will restore to A. • You should never have big jumps in the Fuel or Spark modifiers from one location to the next. If you have 10% in one location the surrounding locations should not very more than an additional 10%. • Only use the Idle fuel and spark settings once you have the regular Fuel and Spark Modifiers where the engine runs the best. • Closed loop control does not work at Idle. This is a big process, but it's not as hard as it seems.

[@jasonalexander3080]

Heck yea you gave him the instructions that's awesome.

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

Thank you for this!!

[@darianistead2239]

​​​@@AutoAuctionRebuildsAwesome instructions, but confirm IAC is fully sealing off before doing anything. If it's sticking open at all, no amount of corrections or throttle blade adjustments will fix the idle issue's. I normally put a blanking flange or block air feed if it's suspect to confirm. You should be able too, or almost able to stall the engine with throttle blades closed. If IAC is working 100% and there's corfirmed no vaccuum leaks, then proceed as suggested above. Edit: just reviewed video of the throttle body, very easy to test on that car. Put your thumb over the intake hole at idle in nuetral at operating temp, see if the idle drops. (it's the 20mm hole at the top between iac and intake venturi's)

[@texan01]

That’s a Ford idle air control motor, those are known to fail and cause weird idle issues as well. You can try and clean it.

[@matthewhill5130]

You are missing the cage nut that would keep the actual nut from backing off with the cotter key.

[@micahhill4786]

Some people call it a castle nut but yes you are correct.

[@daltonhouston1]

@@micahhill4786 I actually read it as castle nut didn’t even realize it said cage nut till I saw your reply 😂

[@jamehewitt3852]

700r4

[@americanrambler4972]

Need a cage nut or castle nut on that bearing, or it’s just going to back off again. And that could end badly.

[@nathanblanchard2357]

Yup, missing a castlenut 🤷

[@Jon_2218]

Two tire rods, 2 coil over shocks, 2 heavy duty rear shocks, King nuts on the spindles plus proper cottor pins, you're getting there, a very kool ride.

[@bbocir477]

Holy crap, get a castellated lock cap put on there immediately! It will keep doing it if not!

[@douglasbrown8175]

I agree with Dwight the toothed washer that goes over the nut is missing . Without that it is going to loosen up again very quickly.

[@johnlewis6569]

Randy great to see you working on some old/new school car again.

[@dwight8426]

You need to get a lock to go over the nut to keep the nut from turning on the wheel bearing, I forgot the name it’s called

[@raymiehershey1430]

Castle nuts or Castle nut style cover. That set up is bad news for your spindles...please fix right away. Probably only 5 bucks.

[@billstreber5194]

That is one beautiful thing back in the days quality build it looks like they didn't cut any corners as far as the nut on the wheel you have to get castle nut cover or replace with the kind of nut again that collar indentate into the large group to keep the nut from them The way it is now that thing will be loose in no time hopefully not in use most of the time those parts can be purchased right at your local O'Reilly's or advance Auto no need to send it away and wait

[@haskellburks]

Hello Randy. The 1940 Chevrolet Coupe is a great looking resto mod. You should make it your Powertour car.

[@kevinwright1551]

Keep up the great work. The car is worth to be work on and brought back to normal again.

[@trclark7689]

Love these types of videos and old Chevy's.

[@alasdairhompstead7950]

Looks like whomever assembled that front hub forgot the hubnut retaining cage that the cotter pin is supposed to lock. That hub nut will be loose again in no time.

[@alancooper7062]

Hi randy , love the car ! Try checking ignition timing ? That can affect tickover speed! Also I believe a small amount of movement is normal on inner track ends when wheels are hanging free and tie rods is are an acute angle !

[@larrywinemiller794]

I know you are alot younger than I am , but the 40 chevy 2 door sedan you have is not a coupe I have had many sedans and coupes and that is a 2 door sedan.

[@ranpederson5482]

Thank you.

[@carvert1]

You may have to get some castle nuts for those front wheel bearing so the split pins would keep the nuts in place

[@daytona3927]

Looks to me you're missing the axle spindle nut retainer on the front axle, that's why the nut backed off and caused the wobble.

[@PAUL-1961.]

Randy you are missing the locking cap on that spindle nut...it will continue to come loose like that,It's a cap which goes over the nut and has slots for the cotter pin to lock in.

[@jdmoffat7680]

Missing a castle nut. Very nice build.

[@BCMLLC]

yes the right front wheel bearing needs a castle nut of some kind. Don't drive it till both front wheel bearing have them.

[@j3rmain3]

Finally!!! i was waiting for a video all morning. cant wait to watch

[@romeoalphafoxtrot9517]

Man! Someone spent a ton of money on that build! You stole it, for sure! Like others have said, there is a cage that fits over the nut on the spindle that engages the cotter pin that is missing. I would put those on for sure. You will get the few bugs fixed. No big deal. Great video. Love that car!

[@mexicanspec]

Your left front wheel is missing the castle nut cover to hold the nut in place.

[@Rambone72]

Very nice car and over the top build. Wish mine was as nice. Good purchase.

[@christopherhornak4914]

Your missing the nut retainer on that bearing nut. Check the drivers side and see if it's missing too.

[@christopherhornak4914]

Sorry, meant to say check passenger side too see if it's missing as well.

[@arthurbiringer5676]

The Caddy air filter is unique, I’d leave it on the engine.

[@Jimsathome]

I'm digging this Car. Good stuff Randy.

[@davidkucher5.0Coy]

Love that car Randy, really hope Michael gets feeling.😎👌👍

[@russelltrupia4479]

Randy DON"T change the air cleaner,that is a CLASSIC,

[@MikeJones-lq6mc]

Can’t wait to see this beauty on power tour

[@dave3657]

13:13 I would get a thicker diameter connector for that brake vacuum line. Preferably I would ditch the splice and run a one piece vacuum line from the engine to the booster.

[@mde8965]

Love the video. Nice car. I agree with some other comments, this should be the power tour ride. Just one guy's opinion, but enjoy the "working on vehicles" videos so much more than the auction walk arounds. I also understand without walking around the auction yards there wont be any vehicles to work on... I envy you getting to enjoy some of the vehicles you have owned. I would go broke doing this because I would not be able to let go of too many...

[@dubcoco1]

CE shocks can be bought from Jegs. Street rod and drag racing shocks. The fronts are nice street rod coilovers. If you want to bring idle down, check the timing. Less timing means lower idle. The camshaft needs a bit of idle rpm.

[@bobbyd1162]

quality build-----------NICE street rod

[@seanryan2616]

Randy I absolutely love that car 😍😍😍😍

[@richroj]

great video Randy, I did enjoy it.

[@brucesahroian1482]

Randy! Its not a Coupe!! Its a Sedan (2 door)

[@brucesahroian1482]

Randy!!!!!!! Theresa a retaining washer missing from that bearing!!!!!! Thats what holds the nut in place!! Don't ask me how I know!!

[@jameswery5626]

Was watching the video and check your timing for this application I thought the position of the cap looked a bit advanced and that would cause the idle to be higher. Of course it may be fine not mowing the engine specs. Just a thought

[@F3AR_DA_REAPER]

Randy at 22:23 when your spinning it around. look at the gap between the Brakes and next to where the studs go it looked to me like it was Warped while you were spinning it i could be wrong and just seeing things though but i replayed it a couple of times

[@kapekodbob]

$9K today but you said it is very , very old. What did it cost then. Love the car and the air cleaner is a much sought after cleaner in the rodding community. Hopefully you checked for vacuum leaks before adjusting anything by sprying some brake cleaner around intake joints.. The tuner must have been tuned properly at some time I would hope and gaskets dry out and allow vacuum leaks. Ah, you're finding the leaks ! Should I save my comments until the end ? Fixing the loose wheels will help a lot, but adding lower A arm strusts will too. Might have to modify OEM ones or custom make. but only if really needed Tightening the hub nut may help. That's not the right nut. You need a castle nut with slots in it that the cotter pin goes thru and holds the nut in place ! Good catch Randy ! The M II front ends are widened to fit Chevies about 4 inches. They will use Fairmont tie rod ends because they are longer, but you don't need them. That front sus. probably a kit. Find out in the book who made it,. Adjustable coil overs. At the bottom are adjusting nuts. Give Edlebrock a call . Beautiful car and you are trearting it right. I have a M II in my 31 Chevy from Tatal Performance and a Chassie Enginieering rear sus.

[@mexicanspec]

Randy, do you brake lights work? The brake light switch on the master cylinder isn't connected to anything.

[@cigarsgunsanddiesel8032]

I noticed that too!

[@samgrabel8648]

Wow a dive line brake that use to be a common sight on hevy equipment and over the road trucks

[@sergiomorales2875]

Man this is a nice car, keep it start a collection this should be your first one. This thing is just too nice

[@P-J-W-777]

The Holly Sniper kit will most likely help out with the idle issues and make tuning the car so much easier ass well as get some extra hidden horsepower.

[@tommyhall2768]

Hey randy hope you an family are great

[@mr_angry1482]

They make much nicer 7" round LED headlights with an orange turn signal ring/white DRL. Got a set for my food truck from Amazon for less than $60.

[@dougvanvark1543]

Why no castle nut? Love your content stay well my friend.

[@michellericard4850]

That's a sweet ride. Could have some fun with that one. Hot August Nights in Reno NV

[@samduty554]

I started to figure out how to get ahold of you the castle nut cover thing is missing. I guess you probably know already. Love your show I didn't want you to die.❤

[@patrickwilley7799]

The front spindles need castle nuts instead of what it's got to keep everything tight without them there's nothing going to help

[@craigjorgensen4637]

Again, not a Retro Mod fan for a number of reasons BUT it appears that someone spent a lot of money on this one and didn’t cut corners! Still I would dump it ASAP! Good content though!

[@amadeo_serrano]

For the idle, have you tried setting the target idle to where you want it? The automatic increase in idle speed might be a control module raising it to even the idle.

[@Luisrc.95]

Maybe a set of viking coilovers?

[@6996brandyl]

They have them sheet metal crown nut caps that's suppose to go over the nut GOOD VIDEO

[@jasonhiggins9274]

You need a castle nut for your wheel bearings in the front.

[@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd]

Hey Randy, if your timing is advanced too much, it will not let it idle any lower? Just trying to help?

[@bk_goatkim679]

Oooo treasure! Hidden issues necwr good but you ndver give up! Keep it gkung randy love the videos!

[@turbotato]

Shocks are from Chassis Engineering...

[@bobfortner919]

That's a nice ride but throw those ugly ass wheels away..😢😂😂😂

[@steveriley1995]

After seeing the bottom side the the car I know you stole it. Sweet ride buddy. Try afco for your shock selection. They will need to know what kind of car it is to get the ride your looking for. Weight matters on coil over selection. Great job

[@remingtonruger]

We used to use Carra shocks on our oval track cars, in the late 90s...

[@jessieharris1676]

The castle nut lock is missing so the nut backed off, will do it again, the cotter pin won't hold it. Better check the right side also, it tightens as you drive, with out the castle nut.

[@mhawkins1975]

Randy that is a gorgeous car it’s a shame they don’t make them like that anymore

[@n4pwx]

Randy I love your car.

[@Vetteman372]

It's a good thing you check your cars out. 'cause you don't know who's been working on them. That build should have been perfect. Off. I can't believe it. Let that castle nut retainer off that wheel. The previous honor probably has twice as much money in that car than you paid for it. You got a good deal on that one.

[@evoxus11]

There should be a thin castle nut that goes over nut to tighten bearing that cotter pin goes through. Check other side. I would get rid of coupler on brake booster joining those 2 hoses.

[@toguro1009]

Which vehicle stained your garage door? At 30:00 are those lower ball joints good? That is a cool car, I would enjoy more content getting it solid.

[@TXCherokee]

You are missing castle nut on wheel bearing. That’s what cotter pin stops on

[@philliphughes3731]

Randy the company that manufactured those shocks were bought out by qa1

[@paullevy561]

Driver front wheel bearing is missing the locking collar. Adjust the whee bearing,add the collar and then the cotter pin. Any parts store should have one. Greetings from Nova Scotia Canada.

[@MrClutch440T4]

Randy, for your high idle, they may have not put a PCV valve in the valve cover. I see the hose cover to a chrome cover on the valve cover. Maybe getting too much air without PCV???

[@MrSkier30]

Hey randy -To get better control of that high idle You could call edelbrock up directly. Then let them knpw the fuel injection /carb part Numbers (with photos) and engine of the build out. I took a tour of there large facility here in California. They have ace mechanics & techs standing by read to assist with any questions you may have. Give them a call they should help solve it.

[@Vetteman372]

WRONG,WRONG Your left wheel is missing the castle nut. That's why it's coming loose. Or a castle, nut retainer that goes over the nut.

[@sesapup]

Called it last video - 700R4 and Ford 9-inch.

[@vanmandad]

Do you still have your hat from last year's Power Tour? That's a must have! 👍🇺🇸😎

[@dededallas2276]

There supposed to be a lock nut over that spindle nut that the carda key holds

[@NoVacks4Me420]

Nice rig, noticed both front upper ball joint boots are ripped.

[@RichardSinkhorn_YT]

Maybe the vacuum booster for the brakes is bad it happened to me twice on two different vehicles

[@Thanos.m]

Hey Randy these type of shock absorbers is the type is called eye to eye you should be able to measure them and order a replacement

[@richardsamit6597]

Summit racing has it all!

[@neilmurphy845]

The counterpin did its job there without it the whole lot would have came off

[@jeremiahsullivan5219]

Randy, you're not to far from the Car Wizard you might want to take it to him and let him and his crew go through it. It would make a interesting video

[@GR11NASS]

Watch out man not every car on the outsides good but that one can't complain its a good car

[@paulreithknecht5616]

Hi Randy Carrera shocks are race specialty and you should be able to find at Jegs or Speedway 😊

[@shaunmartin9063]

Deffo missing the locking washer for that front hub nut, that's why the keyway slot is there.

[@ericwalker1063]

Dear Randy I have been a fan since Uber. Love ÿour channel. I am disabled but you keep me active tĥañk you.

[@reyong4217]

Randy, what are you asking for the Forte?

[@thefunkycrusher420]

I just did a quick Google search and it looks like that coilover and cup and cone are just an external kit you can put any series of their shock into I could be wrong but that's what it looks like as they kick to buy that you can put any series shock they make into it

[@Southsideboystyle]

Great deal on that ummmm I’m gonna say Sedan not so much a coupe As always great video 👍🏻

[@brianhayes7618]

Randy this car is much more interesting and a lot cooler than the Mercedes you have. You need to do more hot rod and classic car content for us old school red necks who watch your channel. I don't know how many wall street yuppies watch your channel but I'll bet more red neck and country folk watch than they do.

[@valeg8316]

True

[@mexicanspec]

1974 - 1978 Mustang II. The 1979 and 1980 was a Fox Body.

[@arthurbiringer5676]

The wheel bearing should be secured with a castle nut.

[@Budicles]

in closed loop idle is always going to be high ( 1000 rpm )... once in open loop is should idle down. Then go in a set your base idle (600-700 rpm)

[@mauricethestrongchannel7143]

Awesome video

[@markbrown3871]

It's missing a cover that imitates the castle nut that goes over the nut before inverting the cotter pin.

[@joeabbott7839]

You need a return spring old school work most of the time

[@James-qb6cy]

Southwest speed performance auto parts has those front shocks

[@batmanlives6456]

The nut on the front wheel bearing should be a castle nut so once tightened it won’t move

[@jerryboyle92]

Open the radiator cap to vent.the cooling system.

[@paulreithknecht5616]

Nice car Good investment 😊

[@malikdigger4544]

Think u have good contented for 2024 Hot Rod Power Tour car Randy

[@arashtorabi8852]

Hi randy don't focus on idel because it's a almost perfect bilt and how was doing it he knew what he doing or I knew the hi performance engine is must idel hi rpm. Keep up good job

[@ColoradoRefinishing]

That sway bar bushing looks weird. Probably be a good idea to at least check the inner bearings

[@johnponthieux159]

You need to make some kind of heat shield to get the heat away from the master and buster and u need a cage nut for the spendal