My DREAM AE86 Raced & Broke... Let's Make it Faster!! GLTC AE86 K24 Upgrade v1.1

[@Mart77]

Please fit some covers to the inside of the doors. Those sheet metal edges look gnarly. I can already see these cutting you open like a baloney when shit happens

[@JackieDing86]

We have cover panels going on soon!

[@curtiscruz8071]

What the OP said. Had a friend loose control of his car hit a tree head on, but his arm somehow got slashed open because of his gutted door. Love the channel, J.

[@cctrans29]

Amazing build. They have some amazing Craftsmanship at 6 Star Motorsports. I take my car there. And they are not parts changers. Had an issue with a part. It was definitely a design flaw. I won't mention the brand. But the technician at 6 Star did some made some mods and adjustments and made it work. They are an awesome shop. 👍👍👍👍

[@brandenburns3322]

So the venting in the hood, you should bend it back/ give it a slight arc or degree it toward the back of the car. You pretty much put a brick wall for all the air to slam into

[@IsaSlipk]

My Ae86 is my Fav car in the world, too. Keep the modern cars, keep the EV's, SUB's. I would drive my Ae86 everywhere, all day long

[@jurinout8665]

Great car in the build, many nice details! The radiator thing just doesn't work like that. If you want the air to go out on top, you have to tilt the radiator. Like someone else wrote, a good way to solve the problem, is getting flow around the engine left & right. Looking forward to next update!

[@Taverius]

1 inch of ground clearance is rough to work around but when you absolutely, positively want as little mechanical grip as possible you do what you have to do. You may not like it Alex, but this is what peak performance (?) looks like. 😎

[@Josh.Bowen.086]

I’m surprised you’re having cooling system issues. My 13.3:1 7age never goes over 210 with Koyo rad and similar dual fan set up. No ducting either. Also be careful cutting too much structure out of the hood. I had a problem with mine where the center section would open like a mouth over 100mph lol. Love the 86 content! Good luck at the next races!

[@VWRalf]

You should move the oil cooler so it doesn't feed the radiator with hot air. You probably have 250 degree oil going through the oil cooler and it's blocking a 1/3 of the radiator.

[@TripSkyWalker]

Love this car so much. Gald got enough data at CMP to make alot of revisions/fixes . Btw my oem oil filler cap adds at least 5 hp

[@riityee]

I love this build … hell yeah

[@andre82s2k]

The coolant issue other the install panels like you mentioned, you can solve removing those shrouds behind the radiator and fit a bigger fan with pass trough pins only, as well oil cooler need to be out of the way of the water cooler, like this the temperatures will drop drastically, if you still not solve but i doubt you need to run a electric water pump and delete the thermostat housing which is a bug restriction in the cooling system, the f20 have same issue and without thermostat housing the temperature are dropping drastically.

[@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast]

Ducting will help a lot. I'm sure all the air was going up hopefully but more likely under the car. Even a hood vent alone would be huge. Awesome car. Looks fun.

[@myesantos5824]

Keepn' the 86 alive! Its good to see it out there competing keep it up

[@rolandotillit2867]

If you want to improve radiator performance install a diffuser downstream and a converging duct upstream. Then you increase inlet pressure and reduce outlet pressure. I know, easier said than done, just a tip.

[@Vittinable]

came here to say the same.

[@JackieDing86]

Yea but that's exactly what we did no? I'm slightly confused on what you mean by a diffuser downstream of the radiator, when the radiator exits out the hood

[@rolandotillit2867]

@@JackieDing86 The outlet of the radiator, where the fans go, a diverging duct will allow more flow for a given inlet pressure ahead of the radiator.

[@Vittinable]

@@JackieDing86 also, you want to slow air down before the radiator. Inlet duct (where it meets the bumper) should be about a third of the surface of the radiator itself. Look up ww2 or similar period airplanes that had piston engines with the cooling stack below and check the dimensions. Then again, that is not always possible, sometimes you gotta conform to a certain shape on the bumper or certain elements getting in the way. What you did is miles better than no ducting at all for sure. It can be better if you want it. (altho with no wing, Im not sure you need any more downforce, as you've probably found out if you've tried the car after the shooting of this video).

[@improvedae86]

I think what your saying in a simplified version for people that have limited understanding of pressure and flow effects is : you need air flow pressure into the radiator and air flow vacuum out of the radiator . How you acheive this regardless of engineering might need some testing before being successful carried out given the air flow around the vehicle. I ran a intercooler , ac condenser , radiator in a levin front AE86 and quickly found out with wood tuff testing using a camera that placing any duct work far forward on the bonnet of the vehicle would have been not efficient due to the high pressure area on the front of the bonnet. What I did was instead duct all the air from the bumper / grill area out into the front of the inner wheel well low pressure area . It was so efficient that the intercooler temperatures dropped increasing power and a fan on the radiator could be removed as they hardly cut in even at rest after many laps. Maybe it would be easy to grab someones trueno fronted AE86 and apply some wood tuffs ( or if there is anybody about with any aero testing / aerodynamics negative pressure sensors around ) grab a go pro mounted on the front bonnet and just run down the freeway at 100mph to determine the correct placement of the exit duct. Or surely someone has a even 2D model of the car for basic CFD .

[@GHSTII]

I really dig this build! The most raw and personal.

[@JackieDing86]

I think that's the whole point of this build haha

[@GHSTII]

@@JackieDing86 I really like the Supra, and the M2 is impressive, but I love how different the AE86 build is. It’s got a ton of character. Ready for its next run 👍🏾

[@bhumiriady]

Ooh... Those upgrades for the GLTC AE86 looks very nice! As always, I really enjoyed watching the video so much.^^

[@speedacademydave]

This is the content the internet and the algorithm demand. Also, this is my favourite car in the world 😂

[@-0k4m1-]

Let’s gooooo More 86 content!

[@DirtBikeSessions]

A lot of work done…car is looking good 👍 😎

[@nodrogkam]

This is such a cool build. Nice change of pace from the shop builds!

[@JackieDing86]

It's what I've been needing after the last few years hah

[@casefc3s]

the 86 is lookin' HAWT! can't wait for the Gingerman vid :)

[@sooyster4033]

"They...they're questionable, but they look cool, so they're on the car!"

[@sepg5084]

Ceramic coat the titanium shielding to make it more effective, if you have the time and money

[@djsonicc]

For radiator ducting, you'd want the inlet to be about 1/3 of the size of the radiator and gradually increase to the size of radiator - Professional Awesome has a lot of info on this. The AE86 is coming along nicely though.

[@JackieDing86]

Ah make sense. We'll try this current setup and see if it needs to be modded later on.

[@DanhPhan]

J, you can order a CBY rear gate hatch with spoiler. It's on RHDJ but shipping will be crazy... just another option.

[@JackieDing86]

Looking into this option too!

[@GuttedWrenStudios]

Love the 86 content! Are you concerned at all about rain/water accumulating at the bottom of the new hood ducting? Can that be drained at all?

[@JackieDing86]

Considering the car literally doesn’t have side windows or wipers, I think rain in the hood ducting is the least of my worries lol

[@HigeYatsu]

So goooooood, haha.

[@LLbrker]

Where did you get the titanium heat shield for the header?

[@Skiridr22]

3D print the duck and add a carbon fiber hood

[@stinkbra]

what is the material cost to 3D print things like the top of the hood scoop?

[@realmadspeed1785]

Don't you usually disconnect the anti roll bars when doing ride height and alignment so there is no tension when balancing? i learned to do it that way. It is not a critic just trying to learn and share. Anyway amazing car and crazy project

[@JackieDing86]

Corner balancing yes. We weren’t adjusting ride height, just alignment, so I think usually that’s ok

[@realmadspeed1785]

@@JackieDing86 I tought you were since you changed the springs but yes that is ok. Can't wait for the next attack videos amazing achievments guys, respect

[@improvedae86]

Where you have relocated the port the manifold vacuum unless there is some kind of bazaar baffle or blockage shouldn't make any difference due to both being behind the throttle plate. What is going to be a issue is the ECU internal sensor will most likely fail the first track day or before due to vapour that will condense once you turn the hot engine off. Easy fix is install the Ecu with the port facing down and always run the vacuum line to bottom of car so any water condensed will just sit in the low line and get sucked straight out on start up. I find it strange that the Ecu manufacture hasn't stated that in there information as this system has been around since the first used in the MoTeC / Autronic Ecu's ie the first Australian aftermarket Ecu manufactures before so many lower brands flooded the market. Whilst I think about it it doesn't look like the Ecu is mounted on any anti vibration / rubber mounts so that might also kill the internal sensor as well ....

[@JackieDing86]

Will look into that. The ECU has been pretty good so far, no issues yet.

[@improvedae86]

@@JackieDing86 Ten minutes work and some extra hose is cheap insurance over a water damaged ECU .

[@improvedae86]

Have you measured the wheelbase ? Just looking at how far the front wheels seem to be coming back to hit everything in the inner wheel well unless there is a much larger diameter tyre used has all the bling suspension bits pushed the wheel further back ? It might all still be in-line as I don't think you have had to relocate the anti roll bar forward that also happens when there is a need to add extra caster over what the little gain in the top strut plates produce. Also looking at the car up in the air, it might just be the arm swing at the rear but the wheels look extremely far forward ? Depending on the axle arc maybe there is some kinda of toe out change that is more driving the oversteer tendency due to all the brackets and placement of the arm pivot points being altered ? Unless you going to put all of this into CAD or a suspension program it might be easier take the springs out and run the axle through its range noting all the changes on a wheel alignment machine or string lines etc . Being lucky enough to have the 23rd AE86 Group A race car owned by a mate in first using live axle on my AE86 before its IRS bolt in days it was interesting to copy the axle pivot point changes that Toyotas race engineers made to the axle to correct all the geometry for the ride height. The Toyota four link with unequal length arms isn't that silly as people would think before moving to longer arms as it has alot of toe gain / rear steer under compression and with the corrected pinion angle that Toyota engineering also used in the axle brackets ( that where made to look like it was all OEM to get about regulations ) can handle quite high wheel torque before rear traction becomes a issue.

[@JackieDing86]

Don't think we've gone that in-depth with the car yet but we'll get there. After all we've just put the car together hah.

[@improvedae86]

@@JackieDing86 Yeh quite a few people here in Aus over the years have gone all extra complexity and parts just to find there track 86's become instant drift 86's just because of the parts they have used in making the longer arm set up's , lower arm mounts etc .

[@ajhartmanaero]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a rule where you must retain functioning headlights in GLTC? I feel like there is cause I'm thinking of making my old racecar a GLTC car and thats one of the things I'd have to do.

[@JackieDing86]

I mean… it has headlights.

[@ajhartmanaero]

@@JackieDing86 Ah, went back to re-listen and missed you mention you will have lights in the bumper.

[@mattteee2973]

That cage must be beefy to get the weight that high!

[@JackieDing86]

Plus extra chassis bracing plus a K24 haha

[@mattteee2973]

@@JackieDing86 I suppose so, in my head a K24 must be light because 'all aluminium', but then its massive in comparison to a 4ag. Mine is 890kgs with OEM bumpers, all the glass, HVAC, full interior besides carpet and sound deadening, but only a feeble Safety21 6pt cage. If any of that bracing is reversible it would be interesting to see what the weight difference is, and how it affects the car.

[@JFlogerzi]

What is that cutting tool??!!

[@JackieDing86]

Milwaukee Nibbler from Home Depot!

[@silvias15Driver]

It is a balance of performance right? Why not keep the weight (might be useful in rainy conditions) and add power?

[@JackieDing86]

So Gridlife has a power to weight scale, as well as a tire size to weight scale. While all cars must adhere to the power to weight, the tire size to weight scale ends at 2725 lbs with 245 max. Which means the lower weight I can get it, the more advantageous I'd have on tires, theoretically anyways. The meta currently is high weight high power, but then again I'm not really trying to win hah

[@elmoz122]

Remove the shroud completely

[@Skiridr22]

Next mod you will find 10 more pounds to cut out 😊