My Favorite Food Safe Wood Finish for Tried and True Original Finish non-toxic wood bowls Video

[@KennethColeStatenIsland]

I got the Tried and True Original Non-Toxic Wood Finish: Love it. Thanks so much. You are a great teacher.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Wonderful, Kenneth! Thanks and Happy Turning!

[@prspastor]

I love Tried and True products. They give a nice sheen and I don’t have to worry about toxins. I think most folks that have trouble with this finish don’t follow the directions and apply too much - then it doesn’t cure in 24 hrs. Again, love the video and love the product. Highly recommended for artistic pieces and pieces that require a safe finish.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Thanks for sharing, John. Yes, great product indeed. Happy Turning!

[@captaincoyote1792]

I have no earthly idea why I watched this…I don’t turn bowls, pens or anything….but I did find this to be a relaxing video to watch with my morning coffee. And the bowls are beautiful. I do however, restore old woodworking tools and rescued furniture. I am a fan of Tried and True (my favorite is the Varnish Oil). Of other value is the recommended respirator! I would guess that turning bowls, like the woodworking I do, keeps one out of sight of the wife…and the risk of having more additions to the “honey do” list! Thank you, sir!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

All thumbs up here. LOL All the best to you and Happy … Woodworking!

[@trippydippyhiphop6925]

Because of you I went and bought Tried and true linseed with pine resin. I really love it, this is perfect. Thank you for sharing.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Excellent, Trippy. Enjoy and Happy Turning!

[@De1taX]

There have been tests on this vs all other types and Tung oil is the only one that doesn’t bleed into food and doesn’t need re application. Also can survive being boiled.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Thank you for writing and sharing!

[@judithflow3131]

No idea where to get Tried & True here in Europe, but beeswax & linseed oil is relatively easy to mix. Just melt the beeswax and warm (not heat) the linseed oil, both can be done au-bain-marie. Mix them at a roughly 1 wax to 4 oil ratio (in mass), stir, put in a jar, close the jar. For a more glossy finish, also foodsafe, make a stick out of pure beeswax, hold it against your project on the lathe while it's turning, then rub it in with a cloth with the lathe still turning. At the same time that you feel the cloth get warm, you'll also see the gloss come up. It's from the wax melting and seeping into the wood. Pretty easy to buff up later as well.

[@bobpede4647]

I've been using Tried and True for a while.It is the best food safe finish I have found(available in Canada).I even use it on a lot of items that don't need to be food safe.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I agree Bob! Happy Turning!

[@hanketue1845]

Thanks Kent just got my tried and try finish to my latest project and I love how it makes the grain come out thanks again

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Wonderful, Hank. Enjoy and Happy Turning!

[@WhoGnu08]

To my regret I missed this lesson when it first came out. For the last couple of months I have been applying Tried and True to my bowls. Having only the written instructions to refer to, I applied a super-thin amount of T&T, and I mean super-thin. This video showed me that I have been taking waaay too long to apply it. Thank you very much for the clarification!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Glad you have it now. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@mdhaskins1]

A successful part of your videos is that you are a great teacher. Everything down to the review at the end :) Thx

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Thanks Michael! Much appreciated! Happy Turning!

[@briancampbell476]

Ordered some and tried it out.. FANTASTIC....Thanks for the suggestion....

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Glad you like it! Happy Turning!

[@peterwaters5536]

Being trained in the Loughboro College for woodworking, and Edward Barnsley was the advisor, we used thinned shellac as a primer then beeswax, but warned NOT to use steel wool, as the metal particles can get into the grain and produce rust, hence we used fine USED glass paper, The wood we used was mostly English Oak, and Sapele. I enjoy your articles, but would like to know about the blocks you use to set the tools for the corerect angles.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Peter, that's good info. Thank you for sharing!

[@jeanbrubeck1565]

This is very helpful. I make cutting boards and finding a good food-safe finish has been a challenge. Thank you!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

You are welcome. Glad this helps!

[@timofeyzhukov-khovanskiy9173]

I've been using Tried and True for a while even before getting into turning, it's a great finish

[@jgunpilot1]

I’ve used Danish oil for quite a while, but this method is WAY easier than how I’ve been doing it!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Great to hear! Happy Turning!

[@marilyn3605]

Just Beautiful 😍! Stunning work!

[@genofromrenoprospector6940]

Your website is awesome. Tons of information. I'm new to turning and haven't started my first project yet. I was given a Shop Smith and getting it all cleaned up and will start turning wood soon. Thanks for all your tutorials. 🇺🇸👍😎

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Welcome and enjoy Please remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you are imagining right now! All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@eldenwelchman6054]

I really like your video to give me some new ideas how to finish things one question how long does this product last on the Shelf and can you use something besides steel wool

[@shaneparker7963]

Will this finish seal a goblet for standing liquid without staining the wood?

[@hakanwedin5869]

Thank you for a great video! When the T&T is 100% hardened, is the bowl durable against e.g. hot soups? My concern is hot liquids would dissolve the hardened T&T resulting in cracks, especially at those points where the end grain is situated. Thank you!

[@zM00Nx]

Thank you so much for the video. I cook professionally and have recently purchased myself a new chef knife. The knife is amazing, but the handle is essentially raw magnolia wood. This seems like a perfect way to safely seal the wood against food and repeated cleaning.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Should work well and makes a nice finish to the touch too. Enjoy!

[@eldenwelchman6054]

Question do you have any particles of the steel wool get embedded into the wood and would that be a hazard?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good question. I have not had that be an issue. If the wood is smooth and the finish is applied properly, it shouldn't be an issue. Happy Turning! Kent

[@IrfanSehic]

Would you do only one coat for a salad bowl or cutting board for example?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, but you can reapply if it dulls over time. Happy Turning!

[@JaniceCormier]

Great video..very informative. I have a birch tray that has a hand painted design on it. it has 1 coat of matte water based varnish on it but I would like to have it food safe. Can I use this product over the current finish?

[@andythenurse67]

As always Kent another fantastic video, thank you.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you and Happy Turning!

[@dianapina961]

Your bowls are beautiful I have a question for you what would you seal a wood bowl with so you can make a candle with it

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Diana, I'm not sure exactly what you are asking.

[@taab7]

How many wash cycles could a wooden cutting board finished with this product withstand before needing to be re-applied? Secondly, what material do you reckon would be best for a cutting board that is primarily used for cleaving meat and bone? I would imagine that a meat cleaver would scar and mar most wooden and plastic cutting boards.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good question! It will depend on how rough the board is used. A simple reapplication of a touch up finish, like Tried and True Danish Oil is all that is needed. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@elizabethswindler4551]

Hello, Do you ever use a friction polish? Can you explain why or why not? Thank you. Beth

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Elizabeth, Good question. Most of the pieces I make are designed to show off the wood. Friction polish is for high gloss finishes and I've found works well for smaller items. Also, I like a simple, quick finishing process. I hope that helps a bit. Happy Turning! Kent

[@martinszabo9910]

Hi, I wonder if this finish would work for a wooden cups (kuksa) that will have a hot liquid in it? Such as coffee or tea. Thank you for amazing video.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Not sure. Might try. It will depend on the wood grain tightness too. Happy Turning!

[@ronaldharlow8044]

it appears that you are using a ROCKLER lathe , if so are there any + highlights. I would appreciate any assistance you will part with and those bowls were absolutely splendid

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Hello Ronald, no not a Rockler, it's a Robust. Here check it out turnawoodbowl.com/robust-sweet-16-wood-lathe-review/ Happy Turning!

[@vegetarianontheright]

What if we don't have one of the spinny things? Can I put steel wool on a drill?

[@bradvietjeastronomy2872]

Love T&T finishes! I add one step: I follow steel wool burnishing with a paper towel burnish to make sure I’ve gotten all of the steel wool dust off the surface.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good idea. Thank you for writing and sharing!

[@quinnwhelen8581]

Can you apply it like a friction polish?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

No, it doesn't dry like a friction polish.

[@serenity6988]

can you put hot soup in the bowls after it dry's

[@loucinci3922]

Turned out nice

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Thanks

[@Sanyu917]

Good job my brother,send me a picture of oil that using to polish

[@billkathy8716]

How does this finish hold up to things like forks, knives, etc

[@TheGardenAndWormLady]

Can I use this on wood that’s been colored with food dye?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, sample an area to test first. Enjoy!

[@galabiri]

Hi Kent, I usually apply only linseed oil to the bowls and goblets that I turn. I think it's important to emphasize that if someone wishes to apply linseed oil to their wooden bowls, he/she should only buy it in designated health shops / supermarkets, which is food-safe. The boiled linseed oil that is being sold in various hardware / paint shops - is mixed with chemicals and is very toxic and should only be used for furniture, etc. - never for coating wooden bowls, cups and spoons. That being said, thanks for all of your videos - you are an excellent teacher and I love watching your material.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I understand your point. That is why I recommend Tried and True products. They are all pure and food-safe. Thanks and Happy Turning!

[@hannaha6342]

Hello Kent, Love your video. I am making a cutting board from an end grain cottonwood tree. How would I burnish the board? Would I do it with a sand paper since it's a flat surf and not on a spinner? I appreciate your advice. Thank you

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Rub it with 0000 steel wool. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@11downstream]

Hi Kent, I have some wooden salad bowls made in Vermont that I've had for about 25 year. Unfortunately they've developed a musty smell and are really not pleasant to use. The bowls appear to have no finish on them. Any thoughts on how to remove the smell? Thank you!

[@crychedad]

What if you had to do this to a huge table? How would your burnish it?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, you can burnish it with the 0000 steel wool by hand and it will turn out great.

[@chewiedox]

You mentioned that you can rejuvenate a piece that has been finished with the Original Finish by using just the Danish Oil however, according to Tried and True’s FAQ, once the Original Finish has been applied, the only thing that should be applied over it is another wax-based finish. The Danish Oil with just the linseed oil wouldn’t penetrate and cure on top of the finish that has the beeswax (that’s my take on what they’re saying, at any rate)

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Hm? I'll check that out. Thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!

[@michaelsmith-ep7jq]

I burnish with a handful of shavings.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, that can work also. Not sure if it's a precise as 0000 steel wool, but it can work. Thanks for sharing.

[@dtork47]

Great tip on that finish, not familiar with it. Have always been a walnut oil fan and beeswax. The burnishing is a great idea which I will try as opposed to buffing the walnut oil. Thanks and happy turning from MT

[@wakelywanderer12]

Can you burnish with a buffing wheel?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, but you will have oil on your wheel.

[@mothmanmothman4909]

I have some red oak strips left from stair treads. I thought about carving some spoons. Do I have to do anything special for the wood? Or is it just carve and treat it? It seems like it may rot over time???

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

This is the perfect finish for you. No need to do any other treatments. Give it a whirl, I think you'll like.

[@jayman6905]

I'm make a beer mug hand carving one. I made my own beeswax polish as a mix of beeswax and walnut oil. Would that be suitable not just for sealing but also not affect the flavour of the beer? If not would this work or a better option?

[@Bertminator]

I have pure beeswax bars AND linseed oil. Can I make my own Tried & true by melting the wax & adding the linseed oil together in a jar?

[@emes8742]

Hi, thank you for posting this. It was very educational. I’m thinking of buying some wooden bowls to replace all of my plastic bowls. I know I shouldn’t have bought plastic in the first place but anyway… I have a question if I were to eat hot soup out of one of these bowls, would the finish prevent the soup from absorbing into the bowl? In other words is it only recommended to eat things like maybe cold things out of wooden bowls or can one also, eat hot foods out of wooden bowls?

[@colossusacolyte3239]

Hi, I have a question. I want to make a Goblet for my wife can i stain or paint the goblet before using this?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, you need to find a waterproof finish or paint. Happy Turning!

[@gregharcharik7290]

Enjoyed your video! Definitely going to use it on my next bowl. Thanks

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Awesome! Thank you! Enjoy! Happy Turning!

[@ellisbloomfield1467]

How do you apply Tried and True to the bark on live edge bowls?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Lightly apply and remove with a lint free cloth.

[@ScottKershawRX]

I really enjoyed this video, Kent! Finishing is a mystery for many and these demos really help easily overwhelmed turners, like myself, see the application, effort and end result without lots of expense. I look forward to more.

[@starnet36]

Great video. I'm building a large Maple counter-top [36" x 68"] that will sit on top of my granite counter-top. It's going to be used for bread & pizza making. Specifically, the dough will be turned out onto the hardwood counter-top for kneading, etc. After the counter-top is cut, glued, and sanded, I will be staining it with a walnut-type color stain; then will apply the Tried & True finish on top of the stained wood. Since this will be a food-prep surface, is there any potential hazard of the stain seeping through the T&T finish?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good question. I would think it will be fine as long as the stain is allowed to dry and cure. Test on a scrap piece of material first. All the best to you!

[@billysanders7043]

Did you seal the bowl with sanding sealer first

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Nope.

[@johnross1724]

Hi Kent, helpful video as they all seem to be. So I tried the tried and true finish but put it on a bowl that had some resin gaps filled. Not thinking, the finish did not stick or look the same on the resin parts. Is there a film finish I can put on top like Generals bowl finish or do I need to strip the bowl (sand or shear scrape)? I am worried the beeswax will not allow another finish to go on top? Thanks for any help.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Lacquer is a good solution. Check this out turnawoodbowl.com/spray-lacquer-illustrated-guide-equipment-system-set-up-technique/

[@evangann6146]

Would this finish stand up with alcohol contact? I'm looking to finish some shot glasses, but I haven't found a finish that wouldn't get stripped out.

[@OPeatey]

Insteadof using a piece of cloth for applying the oil-beeswax mix I use in that stage already a piece of steelwool. I've learned this from the famous Irish turner Glen Lucas.

[@자시엘-l1s]

Pieter Hermans why

[@seniorcitizen5431]

Hi Kent, I'm a Senior (78) and about 10 months ago bought a lathe......"never" turned wood before (hence a new hobby). I've made a number of spindle items and have progressed to bowls. I should say my FIRST bowl.....which I just finished yesterday. I wanted this to be a Food-Safe finish. I think I messed up !! I applied clear coat of Danish Oil and days later I bought food-safe WATCO Butcher Block oil and finish. I waited a few days after the Danish oil and then applied the Butcher Block oil. My Novice type Question is: Is my bowl food safe since I applied it OVER the Danish Oil finish ? If not, I'll turn another bowl from the same log. (I wish I had come across your video BEFORE I did my so-called finishing....) Thank You, Richard (West Boylston, MA)

[@drgruber57]

Not sure if there is a quick easy answer, but I have been using mylands cellulose sanding sealer, followed by OB shine juice. The next day, most of my beautiful shine is gone , presumably soaked into the wood. I even have tried using 2 or 3 coats of the sanding sealer, without much change. Any hints? Or should I switch to a different finish? The T&T Doesn't look like it would give the Kind of luster I'm after. Thanks so much!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

We have a chemist member in our turning group and he insists sanding sealer is no good for making a shiny finish because it contains silica or grit. If you want a shiny surface, try a base "sanding" coat of pure shellac (see my video) and then spray lacquer coats over that. If you want an oil-based finish to shine, it will need many coats to soak and fill the wood cells. Happy Turning!

[@drgruber57]

Thank you Kent. I appreciate your response. 👍

[@Mr.56Goldtop]

What are the washing instructions? After you eat your salad or what ever they need to be washed.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Simply wipe it clean and you can use mild soap and hand wash. Towel dry immediately. No dishwasher or microwave.

[@Mr.56Goldtop]

Thank you. 👍🏻

[@erikruizphotography5382]

Is the oil still flammable after applying it to the surface?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Eric, Yes, the rags are definitely flammable. Soak used rags in water and then let them air out outdoors before disposing.

[@tmhcanonshooter]

Looks like a great finishing option. Question - once you finish turn the bottom, do you do the same technique...1) light coat /dry 1hr and wipe...2) dry 24 hrs. and buff by hand?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, indeed. Good question. Thank you, Tony and Happy Turning!

[@1955noname]

Wonderful and informative video. Thanks. One question- tried and true does not come in colors, blue, green, red, and I was wondering if a small amount of oil paint could be mixed with it? Would it still be food safe? thanks.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Anne, good question. I'm not sure about this. If you want to add color, perhaps an alcohol dye could work. I'd say experiment with small scrap wood and see what happens. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@lolomahoward6894]

Hello can I use tried and true on plaster mold as a sealer?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

That I do not know. You will want to experiment first. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

[@sergei_tkachenko]

Thank you Kent! Loved the video. What really makes this video to stand out is that it feeds you with just enough information to do the job. Your comments are detailed and yet right to the point. You made me buy this product :). Just one question: what happens if you repeat the application after buffing? Thank you again and happy turning to all!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Adding additional layers is okay. Many times I'll add Tried and True Danish oil, which is just the linseed as touch up coats later. But additional coats of T&T Original can be applied as well. Thanks and take care!

[@michaelmacleod1305]

Quick question. If I wanted to do a second or more coats, should I burnish between or just apply coats, 24 hours apart then burnish? Another very informative video. Thanks.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Definitely burnish each layer. You want to thinnest coat possible. If it builds up it will get gummy, not desirable.

[@michaelmacleod1305]

@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks for the reply and advice.

[@karledman4625]

Nice video with a clear explanation. How do you address the residue from the steel wool,small piece of wool left behind? Are you wiping it down with a clean cloth again? Thanks

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Hello Karl and thanks for the comment. I've found little to no residue from the steel wool. But, yes, if you'd like you can also use a cloth to make a final pass.

[@pppppppppp7749]

I've had this same issue in the past. Using steel wool left a grey smear. I certainly could have been doing something wrong.

[@kevinschrenk3828]

First time user of this product. He did not discuss if it was better to have multiple coats. My understanding is that it should have 3 to 4.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

One coat works very well. If you apply super thin coats and let them cure properly, yes you can do several coats. You can also touch up with just T&T Danish Oil which is the same minus the beeswax.

[@treelife365]

Great tutorial, I learned a lot. Thank you!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!

[@cw5986]

Thanks for a great video. Will two to three coats of T&T Original be as durable as T&T varnish oil?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Shouldn't be necessary. Only 1 or 2 coats of original are all that's needed. The Varnish makes a "shell" or film and is a bit different than the original.

[@georgevalente4223]

Do you reapply and how often?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

George, you can but I only do so when the piece looks a bit dry or worn. Happy Turning!

[@dancrandell3892]

Nice Video. Im not a fan of steel wool; have you tried a scotchbrite pad? Im going to give this finish a try and compare to the mahony's walnut oil followed by mahony's utility wax which is a blend of his walnut oil with beeswax and carnuba wax. thanks again for the great video Dan

[@bobohle5517]

Looks like a great product. What would you tell a customer or relative regarding maintenance? Expecting them to buy a specific product, that's not readily available, might be unrealistic.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

If it needs to be touched up, I recommend adding a coat or two of T&T Original Linseed oil. It's super simple. Other food grade oils can be used too for touch ups.

[@marcywine8036]

can this be used on outside wooden boxes for the garden? Is it waterproof?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

No, it is water-resistant and designed more for kitchen woodware that will come into contact with food.

[@marcywine8036]

@@TurnAWoodBowl thanks!

[@halimmouawad6256]

Hi Kent. Thank you for the video. I was using your shellac method. Now confused,,,,, I have been adding shellac to everything I turn, Please advise... great work again. Halim from Sydney Aust

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I use shellac to seal end grain if it's problematic and I use shellac as an undercoat for a gloss lacquer finish. When I use T&T Original, I use it all by itself. Sorry for any confusion. Happy Turning!

[@halloweeninator]

Hi Kent like your content very much. What do you do if burnishing on the lathe is not an option? (Like spoons, forks or once turned green bowls after drying and they are all wonky)

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good question. Just rub the surface down with the same 0000 steel wool. Requires a bit more elbow grease. That's all. Happy Turning!

[@trevoralmas6662]

I am enjoying your videos. I am going to try making shellac. As soon as flakes are available and i can find denatured alcohol in Canada.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Thank you. They might call the alcohol "methylated spirits" in Canada. I believe that's what they call it in Europe as well. You can also use very high proof drinking alcohol.

[@boooshes]

You can also just use grain drinking alcohol (like Everclear).

[@nancypone5854]

Beautiful! What kind of wood are your bowls? We are making some furniture for my little guy with pine and I'm trying to visualize how the finish will look.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

These bowls are honey locust. Pine should look great. It will warm the color a bit but should look fantastic. Enjoy!

[@Anthonyinkz]

Does this work on stone inlay wood to

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes

[@rasoolmaraghi1722]

Can i make it myself? Cuz this brand is not in my country

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes, it is possible. I do not have a recipe, but it is doable. Happy Turning!

[@rasoolmaraghi1722]

@@TurnAWoodBowl i found the recipe It is ( 1 bee wax and 4 linseed oil ) 4 to 1 ratio by volume

[@cazzag8254]

So I don’t need to use a sanding sealer as some vids say to?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

No, you don't need a sanding sealer. Actually some people recommend against sanding sealers all together because some have grit added to them and cause more roughing of the surface. Keep it simple.

[@Gretsch6113]

Great Tutorial I like everything about it but I don't agree with using steel wool, I think the dry woods shavings burnishing is much safer and does a nice finish, Steel wool is known to leave minute metal in the wood

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

That's an interesting point. Thanks for sharing.

[@newapologist]

Ordered some today, thanks

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Enjoy

[@peacekeeperprojects]

Are you able to say more about how water resistant this method of finishing is?

[@jackmiyamoto5270]

I just received my first quart of the T&T Original and it is like tooth paste. Your videos look as it is very liquid. Will it become more liquid with room temperature heat? Thanks jack

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

It should. Keep it inside at room temp and you should see a big difference. Happy Turning!

[@MD-en3zm]

I love the T&T finishes. I use mostly the Danish Oil, which is just an amber oil that looks almost the color of honey in a jar. One quart lasts forever for woodturners - you really don’t need much. If yours is milky/semi-opaque, that’s probably the wax solidifying a bit. Put the jar or can in a warm water bath to warm it up a bit and stir it and it should become more clear. I’m not sure this matters for application. Obviously, don’t heat the finish over a flame or other heat source, but it’s safe to put it in a water bath. This is how we heat flammable liquids like alcohol in chem labs.

[@MyRudy45]

I am currently using the Tried and True Java stain for a lazy Susan. I’ve put on 3 coats and it’s still is not as dark as it looks like it should be. Any suggestions what I may be doing wrong?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I'm not familiar with their stains. I'd recommend emailing Tried and True. They are usually good about responding.

[@MyRudy45]

@@TurnAWoodBowl OK. Thank you I will

[@jeffriechel]

I realize this video is a bit old, but I’ll throw out a question: after your bowls have been used a while, are you able to reapply this finish to touch it up? Thanks!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Jeff, yes you can touch up any time with the same finish or Tried and True's Danish Oil. Happy Turning!

[@BigJ_FPV]

Is the finish waterproof? I made a Beautiful wooden mug and I want it to be functional

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

No, water resistant. Epoxy might be your answer.

[@miles67733]

jacob headworth Though some epoxy resins are technically considered “food safe for incidental food contact” all that really means is if it’s a non oily, non alcoholic, non powdered, room temp (not hot or cold) food item it can touch it from a few seconds to a few minutes (I researched into this and remember being surprised at how ridiculously low the amount of time and how many stipulations it had as to what kind of food item could touch it) without having interaction between the surfaces. Another stipulation is that the epoxy resin would have to be completely unadulterated (clear without coloring or other additives which could technically be achieved by doing a top coat over colored epoxy resin). So basically I would say you aren’t going to die from drinking or eating off a surface with epoxy resin every once in a while, but you probably will be consuming a tiny bit of epoxy and should you do that in some sort of frequency over years of exposure to what is essentially a plastic you are bound to get some sort of effect from it whether that is something that is measurable and possible to attribute to said epoxy consumption is likely to be difficult though.

[@miles67733]

I have been on the hunt for something that could be used for this kind of purpose still myself.... so far I haven’t found a non toxic finish that is “waterproof” and from what i have surmised is that the best you can do is to use a food safe finish with a food safe wax finish like bees wax and or carnauba wax. It’ll would only be water resistant. It still would wear down, you wouldn’t be able to leave it with fluid soaking in it and fats, alcohol and hot/cold would still probably remove some of the finish causing you to need to periodically reapply as the cup “looks dry”. But at least you wouldn’t be hurting yourself because it’s a food safe finish.

[@BigJ_FPV]

miles miller thanks for your advice! I appreciate it 🙏

[@quinntheeskimooutdoors6234]

Interesting, I use flaxseed oil on my spoons. Thanks for the info.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

You bet!

[@jimmiller4608]

How dose one burnish a plate if you don’t have a turner?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Good question. Simply rub it with 0000 steel wool. The lathe is just a fast lazy way to do the same thing. ;)

[@josephgagnon555]

Is it suitable for salad bowls?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Most definitely!

[@stompahlicious7131]

what is the highly water-resistant and non shiny look food safe wax out there in the market for wood cup?

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Hm? I'm not sure. Good question. The end grain will need to be completely sealed for it to hold water.

[@nadobit1769]

Does work for a live edge bathroom vanity too? Thank you

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I don't think so. You'll want a waterproof epoxy or resin finish for a bathroom vanity.

[@nadobit1769]

Thank you for replying. Actually I am looking for non toxic options. Do you have specific non toxic product will work with bathroom vanity.?

[@kathymcmaster9993]

Loved finding this video and learn about your product. Can I burnish it without the lathe, just by hand?

[@kathymcmaster9993]

Also can you give me a link to the mineral oil by tried and true to add shine once used for a while, thank you!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Glad this was helpful. Yes, you can hand burnish the surface. The other product is Tried and True Danish Oil and here's a link. amzn.to/3rYa2my All the best!

[@kathymcmaster9993]

Thank you! Can I use paint before I apply your finish and would it still be food safe?

[@greenfield6950]

Hi, You mentioned that you would put a link to the respirator below. I searched but couldn’t find the link. If you wouldn’t mind, could you share that information. Thanks!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Done! Here you go amzn.to/31CQn0K and here are the filters amzn.to/3mgJeuY

[@blainlehman1018]

What type of wood are these pieces?

[@timothytierney3230]

Can you use this product on any type wood? Like Honey Locust or Ash

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

Yes!

[@terryrhuebottom]

So if I wanted to make a set of bowls for actual food use this would work or is there something that needs to seal to bowl better than just oil. I use a similar product on some old butcher block cutting boards I cook with but those are cleaned quite a bit differently than other things.

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

This is the product you want. Much better than just oil.

[@terryrhuebottom]

Turn A Wood Bowl thanks.

[@michaelhillinger2524]

Nice video, just got some and about to use it. Any suggestions for a bowl that as resin accents? I assume it will not absorb the finish. Thanks!

[@TurnAWoodBowl]

I've applied this over epoxy insets and it works great. Happy Turning!