My Favorite Housewrap and why - ZIP System vs OSB + House wrap

[@mxb_se]

Zip is great. I just built my house with this on the walls and roof and I'm happy I spent the extra to get it. However... the MOST IMPORTANT part of all of it is how well the sheathing is nailed and how well the tape is rolled. I ran into major issues with both over-driven nails and under-driven nails. Under-driven nails made it a pain to tape over at the seams. Over-driven nails can cause structural strength issues. My framers SUCKED at the details. Probably half of my house had unrolled tape, including on the roof... nightmare setup. I had to go back and do it all myself to ensure it was done correctly. The tape that was "rolled" was rolled over under-driven nailheads making sharp points (tears) in the tape. One other major problem that no one talks about is that regular Zip tape should be cleaned with acetone before applying any other tape or liquid flash over the top of it (as it has a chemical layer on it to keep it from sticking together while in the roll). This was a big concern for me and something that I haven't seen anyone else take seriously in videos like this when it comes to lapping tape... especially when flashing around doors and windows. If you do this the right way and use acetone to clean the tape, wear gloves. If I could go back in time I would have just taped everything myself from the start... and probably would have used stretch tape wherever possible, even considering the price... that stuff is amazing, super thick, hard to tear or damage.

[@johnwhite2576]

So refreshing to ee soemnone provide a balanced relationship world assessment . I’m not knocking Huber, it’s a great system if taped properly. Nobody other than these hugely competent and expensive utube framers does this !! NOBODY !!. Matts framers and awesome franers /tim what , 1/1,000, 1/10,000 re quality framers ?? Thsi whole video is a bot of a false choice. What about CDX ? Granted teh quality of plywood isn’t what it use to be , but my next house will be cdx and and spray pallid liquid (DuPont, Tremco etc) One thing I DO know, after trying zip on roof THREE times and tapin g myself, there are ALWSY some, albeit minor leaks. Just put on cdx and throw down two latest of jumbo tex and you are weather sealed until roofers can get there. Horixzotal seams on a zip roof will ALWAYS have soem leaks, and a roof has to be 100% leak proof. I also STRIONGLY recommend using liquid flash-or any other cheaper silane based caulk (Tremco Dymonic FC etc) on all vertical corners and bottom of final zip panel where the uncharted OSB is very vulnerable . NOBODY ver gets those joints sled with anything tape, im sorrry.

[@BLKMGK4]

Either this channel or RR Buildings talked about the need for acetone. Both builders use it and RR has the most detailed building I've ever seen. Sadly, good luck finding someone like that local to almost anywhere :( This channel talked about the need to nail properly, apparently, they actually get inspected for that there. Good luck finding decent inspectors most places too I'd still use ZIP and I see it used all over the place near me but I often wonder how well it gets taped. RR shows off how to do it right and uses a TON of advanced materials. I still see some places here using house wrap flapping in the wind :( It seems like it's REALLY hard to get good builders these days...

[@davidhcrawford]

it's really great how you start talking about how idiot-proof it is right as the guy behind you climbs on to the top step of an A-frame ladder leaned against a wall. great framing as well!

[@bobbray9666]

We used Zip R-12 on our new home built last year here in zone 6. I did the taping because I know the framers could care less about doing it properly. I bought a couple of Big Bertha nail guns for the framers to use but made sure they followed the prescribed nailing pattern on our single story house. Our blower door test was 75% better than passing grade and the inspector said he rarely sees a reading that low. I could have sealed all vents like range exhaust and bath fans but didn't. We also used closed cell foam between stud cavities which increases shear strength by 300% over batt insulation. R-30 walls and low heating bills with a smaller HVAC system. 2x4 construction with normal window/door jambs for 2x6 construction. What's not to like? Those who build using normal sheathing, window bucks, furring strips, exterior foam panels and Tyvek for WRB are wasting time and money with walls that may not be what was paid for as far as water/air penetration protection. Hard to teach old dogs new tricks.

[@tarahall1025]

A known risk. MDI adhesive- will it leach in that tight seal? Best have exterior air pulling into the house- I would not want recirculating air with that much exposure to chemical adhesives.

[@bobbray9666]

@@tarahall1025 All tight homes require an ERV or HRV which brings in fresh air. OSB uses MDI as one of the adhesive but has there been cases where OSB sheathing has caused indoor air quality issues? I suspect not. What are your other options for new construction that passes code for a blower door test?

[@BirchwoodBill]

ZIP R makes a lot of sense when you look at the total package of material & labor & warranty. As a homeowner/engineer/designer why would I cobble together components that are not covered under one warranty? When looking at a SYSTEM you need to look at overall performance, total installed cost, and simplified execution methods.

[@thomascho3318]

The only problem is the cost. Zip R costs 6x more than what would typically cost.

[@stevendelizasoain9237]

@@BirchwoodBill . I would agree with you if it was available on plywood instead of oriented strand board.

[@Chris-ik5ue]

I don't like how the insulation is next to the studs, not the structural board itself. It just doesn't seem to be a structural wall unless the hard part of the panel is nailed directly to the wall. The insulation should be on the outside, not sandwiched between the studs and structural paneling

[@FFdo.]

I still would like to see a 20 years old house with zip system vs a 20 years old OSB house wrap.

[@jefflosey1561]

Look at more of his videos he has some instances of failures of stapled paper on OSB vs whatever on ply vs engineered systems including ZIP… being fixed.

[@Krunch2020]

There are some photos I’ve seen of failed Zip. It was the lack of kick-out flashing where a roof met a wall.

[@ledebuhr1]

I'm surprise that the price of Zip hasn't come down when their patent expired.

[@TimGGleason]

When I bought the first panels for my one wall it was $26/board. Mid pandemic was $80. Now $40. Glad I didn’t have to buy any in 2021!

[@KevinLauscher]

@@TimGGleason I was a 2021 buyer. Not fun! but only a 340 square cabin :)

[@TimGGleason]

@@KevinLauscher of course my wife and I had to go creeping on your profile after that comment. Is that LP Smartside as your siding? That’s what we’re putting on our house this fall, likely a similar color!

[@Coker-Time]

Hey why don’t you put links in for the builders you’re talking too??? It not like I am keeping track of all that when I am watching & listening to what’s going on. Please start adding in links to all your contributors.😊

[@danielherman9483]

Zip is great for new construction or additions, but what would your choice be for an older house that predates the usage of house wraps? Specifically, something with T&G 1x8 for sheathing, so not a perfectly smooth surface like OSB or Plywood.

[@BLKMGK4]

I've wanted to pull my siding off, remove the plywood, insulate with foam, and replace it with Zip forever but it's a big job and cannot be done all at once. I'll have moved before ever having been able to do it. The second story addition however is solid and heavily insulated at least.

[@shawndythomas288]

Hi Matt. Can you cover metal framing for a house? I dream of building my own home and I'd love to know your opinion regarding Woods VS Metal

[@stevendelizasoain9237]

My only problem with the zip system is that it is only available with oriented strand board. I think it would be great if it was available with 5/8 plywood for better impact resistance in a windstorm.

[@Double_Thinker]

Hardie board for siding in my opinion

[@stevendelizasoain9237]

@Double_Thinker. I agree that Hardie Board is a superior product for siding, and I like the concept of the Zip System. But I am very anti-oriented strand board, which I saw fail miserably during Hurricane Andrew. Plywood outperforms oriented strand board when dealing with water and wind driven debris.

[@rolfewilliams4890]

@@stevendelizasoain9237 The other way to achieve essentially the same thing is to sheathe with plywood, tape the seams with a plywood-appropriate tape, then apply exterior foam board over the whole house. This will perform as though you had used Zip-R.

[@bwillan]

Has Matt or any other Build Network builders done a cost comparison between ICF to the roof vs stick framing and all the details needed for proper high performance building?

[@Zorlig]

Steve has done the math, if I recall it's like 2x the cost to do icf.

[@johnwhite2576]

@@Zorligand thats if you have an experienced competent ICF builder in your area.

[@jaysson1151]

@@Zorligthat doesn’t mean the cost of the whole house is 2x with ICF-just the cost of framing it. Also keep in mind, lumber prices go up and down a lot whereas concrete is more stable, kind of like gasoline vs diesel.

[@Zorlig]

@@jaysson1151 Yes, just in terms of getting results, performance etc. And then remodeling is very expensive with ICF. Good if you want bullet proof walls though!

[@ericscott3997]

@@Zorlig Better if you live in areas with high winds (Tornados, straight line or hurricanes) or if wildfires are a concern as well.

[@wanderinginminnesota8591]

What prevents delimitation and more importantly disintegration of the insulation on the zip board? I have seen bead-board disintegrate, and I have seen delimitation of the sips walls. How does zip prevent this?

[@zacharycorriea3721]

Hey Matt, if you're doing pier and beam construction, how does one wrap the air barrier under the house?

[@aggiewoodie]

@AwesomeFramers has a whole video on it.

[@johnwhite2576]

@@aggiewoodielink please ? Wayne (RI) and Jake (Missouri)also have these type of builds on teh Build show channel . You tet the bottom of the first floor as an exterior wall. What i dont know is what hey put over the inverted zip panels ?

[@jasonhalter2001]

Use closed cell foam. If you don’t you will have mold. If you want to enclose it use Hardy.

[@jasonw9431]

Would a truck liner rolled onto the framing and sheathing be better or equal to this system? The application would be more consistent and seamless.

[@TrytoCatch22]

Matt has a video on something close to that. It was an orange coating that you roll on like paint but acts somewhat like a flashing system. I think it was from Proseco, one of his sponsors

[@jasonw9431]

@@TrytoCatch22 thanks. I will look it up.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

There are roll-on WRB products but they're a LOT more expensive.

[@TempoMontages]

you would have to tape all the joints first still before you put any coating

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

So how does humidity trapped inside the walls get out? You have Super 6 poly, drywall and paint on the inside, and now you've completely sealed the outside. In Canada, we have to leave a 1/8th gap between our sheer panels to let that humidity get out. If we don't do that, mold will grow and eventually rot the sheathing panels and later the studs.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

Why would you have poly?

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

@@DeuceDeuceBravo Its called a vapour barrier.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

@@TheDirtyBirchTrails My house from 1973 has old school poly barrier. I would never use it in a new house. That stuff will trap moisture more than anything else. Things have come a long way since plastic sheeting.

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

@@DeuceDeuceBravo The difference being up here we can go from -40C in winter to plus 35C in summer. If the inside of your house is properly vented, then you don't have to worry about the poly. It is a necessity to prevent the cold outside air to touch the warm inside air and cause mold.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

@@TheDirtyBirchTrails My area ranges from -20C to 38C. But it doesn't matter what area you're in, there are way better methods than using plastic sheets. Condensation is the enemy. You can avoid condensation in wall surfaces by either preventing any air/moisture from reaching a cold surface in a standard wall (virtually impossible over long term even with poly sheets) OR the preferred method which is adding enough exterior insulation to a virtually airtight envelope so any indoor moisture never reaches a surface that's cold enough to hit the dew point. Basically keep the whole wall assembly warm enough so there's no condensation. Hope that makes sense.

[@garygeorge9648]

Cost differnetial please?

[@imtheonevanhalen1557]

A LOT

[@sameddleman4991]

What do you suggest in Oregon with the rain screen requirements?

[@disqusrubbish5467]

The Awesome Builders guys are the the Pacific Northwest I think - you might check their You Tubes.

[@dtemp132]

Would have liked to discuss the cost of materials for zip system

[@SeanPowell-f4l]

Hey Matt, What would your honest opinion be of the Zip system being used on SIPS Panels?

[@burntbeanjuic3]

Hey Matt, one thing to look out for with the insulated Zip board is that it has reduced strength as structural sheathing. Working on the structural design of some townhomes we had to tell the architect that to use the insulated Zip board we would need another layer of sheathing in direct contact with the studs to form the shear walls.

[@johnnichols2710]

I live in Ca and I have never seen zip sheathing. Our shear walls ate nailed 3”o.c edges and 12 in field . I dont think I would ever use zip

[@ricoludovici2825]

Las Vegas here. I wanted to try ZIP but no one carried it around here. The next closest place was in Utah. And my engineer was not interested in learning about new/modern materials. So we went with OSB. Then I had the crew tape the joints with ZIP tape I ordered on Amazon. They got every joint, from the sill plate to the top plate on two stories. And rolled it. I still don't know what difference the ZIP sheathing would have made. But the framing contractor covered the entire house with Tyvek after all. So I kinda got belt and suspenders. I made 2.4 ACH on the blower door test. So it must have worked. By the way, CDC recommends FOUR air changes per hour for a healthy home. So it seems the building requirements are working against the health requirements.

[@musicmakerman867]

@@ricoludovici2825 The idea with a tight home below 4 ACH is that you can use an ERV and control the make up air using filters/heat exchange rather than just unfiltered air and bugs going through cracks. You shouldn't make a tight home and not add mechanical air exchange

[@ricoludovici2825]

@@musicmakerman867 We have plenty of holes in the walls [bath vents, kitchen vents, and such] including the combustion air intake and HVAC fresh air intake. The ventilation plan was designed by an engineer. Fresh air is not a problem. My comment was about the cross-purposes of the building code and the health recommendations. A conflict which is fairly common in the building trades.

[@Mdog-43]

Cool how zip r thermally breaks framing and all in one package, other insulated panels use chip wood that the bugs like

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

ZIP with the builtin insulation is just one layer away from becoming a SIP panel:)

[@harveypaxton1232]

If the field nailing is not taped, what keeps moisture from penetrating the nail holes?

[@JG-iq2qv]

Don’t mind the osha violations on camera😂

[@aggiewoodie]

Eh, it’s Texas. No real OSHA inspections on residential.

[@alanjackson1015]

I wasn't going to comment, but I concur! :)

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Heh...

[@lorimcquinn3966]

He doesn't need his eyes.

[@Crusader1815]

How can you paint all "housewrap" with the same brush? Anyone who knows about Tyvek should know it's pretty much pointless, and will turn to dust in a few weeks of Texas sun, but Tyvek is not the same as Polyguard or DeltaVent SA. I know the main point here is to minimize labor costs, but putting that aside, if you wanted the BEST wall assembly, would you rather have Polyguard on top of 5/8" plywood, or Zip sheathing?

[@frqnj]

I like Delta Vent SA for climate zones 4 and above. Polygaurd great choice for lower. You have to consider the vapor permeability of these products as well. You don’t want to make it too hard for moisture to escape. But both of these products over plywood sheathing would be superior than the zip system and you’re not worried about nail penetrations and did the tape stick right over seams. Much harder to air seal zip vs these two.

[@MurDocInc]

Agreed, self adhered housewrap on plywood is going to perform better. Seals over joints and nails, more vapor permeable, better impact resistance, and won't degrade if ever gets wet. More labor but better product.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

Agreed. I'd still prefer plywood + self-adhered membrane, but that typically gets much more expensive than ZIP.

[@MurDocInc]

@@DeuceDeuceBravo Not really, Zip sheet $40 + $10 Zip tape per sheet = $50 Plywood sheet $30-40 + $25-60 SA wrap per sheet = $55-100 2500sft home roughly needs 100 sheets, so $500-5000 difference, IMO even 5k isn't that expensive.

[@bryansprecher]

If only it wasn't attached to OSB. Old Soggy Board is what we call it.

[@stevendelizasoain9237]

I remember seeing what hurricane Andrew (1992) did to old soggy board houses. The pieces that did not come off or disintegrate reminded me of the golden arches. It cannot handle wind driven debris.

[@Hybridog]

I'm thinking this isn't ordinary, low grade OSB.

[@charlietuna1971]

​@Hybridog all OSB is low grade when compared to even average plywood.

[@bryansprecher]

O.S.B. is 2 different waste products being repackaged as "Product". If could make money off of my trash, i suppose i would also. I refuse to buy it though.

[@johnmitchell7574]

The “OSB” from Huber in Zip is not the same at all. Like Advantech subfloor, it’s extremely rot resistant. I built a 30 unit apartment building with Zip sheathing in Mpls. We found pieces of Zip buried in mud for 5-6 months at the end of the project. There was NO rot at all on these scrap pieces. Standard OSB would have been a rotten mess covered with black mold.

[@benrogers5096]

Use for plywood and hydro gab Osb swells and crumbles when wet. Same with advantex.

[@mobaumeister2732]

So what happens with all the nail holes? Don’t they puncture the membrane? I hear that over driven nails can cause issues.

[@BLKMGK4]

There's a goop that is used to cover them and if you don't overdrive it's apparently fine. RR Buildings goes over a ton of the different tapes and caulks and things - that guy is amazing!

[@cw6410]

I’m curious how zip compares to an adhesive wrb like blueskin ? I really like that system and there is no taping. Although with the new stretch code, zip r might be only rational choice if your doing shake siding which is common by me.

[@Krunch2020]

Zip-R puts the OSB on the cold side where condensation occurs.

[@luisfvazquez09]

can you install zip horizontal?

[@JacquiKing-70]

Yes.

[@DewDrinker87]

I’m still heavily concerned with the high probability of installation error with Zip System by unskilled labor. Nails blown through the membrane layer and unrolled tape. Further I do not like vertically laid sheathing as compared to horizontally staggered sheathing that is structurally stronger.

[@toasty960]

Unskilled labor is an issue with everything under the sun, and even then ZIP is simpler than other moisture barriers. Build Show and Matt have videos that show overdriven nails are a non-issue here -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJCagnSOf6lmg6M / kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZnbmqh-gquXoc0 ZIP can also be installed horizontally.

[@Brewdiss]

I'm thinking about water proofing a shower enclosure with zip, before gluing acrylic panels over the top. Tell me I'm crazy. Zip is an acrylic based product right?

[@ericscott3997]

Why wouldn't you just use something that's specifically designed for showers, like Schluter®-KERDI systems? No need to overcomplicate things.

[@johnnichols2710]

Your crazy

[@raymondpeters9186]

Is it worth the extra cost?

[@paulrey27]

No

[@Zorlig]

If you want the air sealing it's one of the more affordable ways.

[@patrickgeorge141]

I worry about these systems down the road, say in ten years. We used to ice and water seal a whole roof with SIP panels.and now we do not because of moisture, vapor escaping from below causing the SIP panel to rot and becomes a major expense to fix.

[@paulrey27]

@@Zorlig I disagree. It can be, but often it's not installed correctly.

[@shvrdavid]

@@paulrey27 Affordability and shoddy work, are two different things.... You can have shoddy work with zip as well, making your point, a very moot point....

[@mickeyjackson5678]

So what happens to a zip pannel after the siding is on and uve punctured it 1000 times .... Is it still worth the money

[@tonyaiello6463]

Why aren't the zip installed prior to lifting the walls?

[@Biggnuncio]

I am very curious about a house that got a good blower door test and then compare it to itself 10 or 20 years later.

[@ronm6585]

Thanks.

[@D2O2]

Sorry, when we used house wrap we framed the walls on the deck with sheathing and house wrap attached. Once the walls were stood, a laborer went around and nailed off the lapped seams and taped. Basically same trips around the house as with zip. Not saying wrap is better than zip, but "number of trips around the house" argument doesn't hold water.

[@patrickgeorge141]

That is how we did it as well

[@dondumitru7093]

His statement at about 4:40 was related to inspections for nailing for shear requirements. The inspector wants to be able to inspect the nailing pattern to make sure there are enough nails, in the correct patterns. His statement was that with housewrap they needed to put the sheathing on and then wait for inspection, because the housewrap would otherwise block what the inspector needed to see. He asserted that with ZIP the inspector was able to do the inspection even after taping, so they could just roll straight thru sheathing and taping without having to take a break to wait for the inspector. Are you building in a zone that does not have earthquakes and thus might not have the same requirements for sheer?

[@shvrdavid]

Every new system is obviously far better than the previous one that they didn't know how to put up properly.... Especially if the new stuff sponsors your channel repeatedly....

[@D2O2]

@@dondumitru7093 Last count, there are 12 states in the U.S. with no statewide building code. This doesn't mean we don't build to code, it just means we self certify and therefore don't have to wait on an inspector, nor taylor our workflow around an inspector.

[@laloajuria4678]

@@D2O2 thats terrifying....

[@bakerz7269]

I couldn't trust this for a stucco system. I'd still wrap it

[@ivanhannel]

Building a duplex with stucco and, yes, we have ZIP + Tyvek to preserve the warranty with ZIP.

[@tyhenny9426]

Looking for some great framers in sf bay area california?

[@harveypaxton1232]

Hasn’t caught on in Northern Idaho yet.

[@hotdogs5265]

Brought to you by zip system

[@D2O2]

Yes, Huber has been a long time sponsor of the channel.

[@whymindsetmatters]

StoneCoat is a 4-1 system

[@gurban333]

need a aerosolized spray on WRB for windows like a car undercoating

[@crabkilla]

Matt did a video about this with high-end builder in Austin where they were sheathing with OSB and spraying on a monolithic WRB from Polywall. That to me is the ultimate solution (no tape). I am a huge fan of Zip-R - one pass, not three. Expensive material, way less labor.

[@oscarlara5755]

i think the product is great BUT if time is spent taping, caulking, and completely making home airtight to prevent water intrusion wouldn’t putting the siding completely defeat the purpose of all the prep work? With any type of siding you are punching holes wheather nails, staples, etc. that introduces penetration points throughout the barrier.

[@doomsdaypreppersofsouthcar9301]

House wrap turns to crap in a few years...just disintegrates when water penetrates the holes and it will over time..but you do you...we went with Georgia Pacifics Force Field...lots cheaper than zip board but still use tape and liquid flashing

[@TrytoCatch22]

First off, I am not an expert. But I have heard that GP's system is not as good as Zip or LP Weatherlogic due to how they adhere the weatherproofing layer to the OSB

[@campchet]

I do love ZIP and especially ZIP-R BUT you are indeed making a second trip around the house on ladders to tape the seams so you can't really make that claim.

[@jeffharris6331]

Zip system is totally dependent on the tape adhering to seal the joints and waterproof the windows. I have zero confidence that zip tape is going to be adhering in Texas heat for 5 years, much less 20, 30 or 40. Every overdriven nail has to be sealed. If you're buying a spec house or mass builder home, do you really think this is being done? I am in the process of building a home and have to decide by next week what I'm going with. My framer wants to do zip, but obviously it saves him time and labor. The building experts I trust say Tyvek drain wrap since I'm doing some stone and the rest Hardie.

[@qgc3426]

Zip system warranty is only like 20 years for that tape. I’ve seen 100 year old houses with tar paper in perfect condition.

[@johnnichols2710]

Im with you

[@greengateacreshomestead4324]

Question : A homeowner here (future) - do you need to call for inspection before rolling the tape?

[@wkbdgeorge]

Good question. +1

[@Mystprism]

Typically you need them to inspect the nailing pattern for shear before taping.

[@jpe1]

At 4:38 he discusses this, saying that on this job he was able to tape before shear inspection, but that one should check with the inspector first. Anecdotally, I had a remodel job on my house where the inspector pulled some random nails from joist hangers, and they weren’t long enough, inspector made framing carpenter remove all the too-short nails and replace with proper length nails, so you never know what an inspector might want to check.

[@HomesBuiltRight]

I do love the numerous OSHA violations in the background. And just to clarify, taping doesn’t require ladders or extra labor??

[@charlietuna1971]

The real comparision isn't wrap to Zip, the real comparision for modern building should be Zip vs liquid applied.

[@MrTexasDan]

Terrible. Not a word about cost. Also, just how is that air and water sealing after you punch thousands of holes in it to attach the siding?

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

Nails aren't an issue unless they've been overdriven, in which case you need to make sure that they're covered with tape or liquid flash.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@DeuceDeuceBravo I'm talking about the thousands of nails you later punch through putting the siding on.

[@toasty960]

@@MrTexasDan unless you're driving siding nails in so far the head goes through the siding and penetrates the barrier then it's not a penetration unless they're removed.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@toasty960 Ok thanks. So then I'm really not getting the benefit of zip, other than taping the seams, which you can do with ordinary OSB for half the price.

[@toasty960]

@@MrTexasDan labor costs mostly. If you're taping anyways (which you should) then having the water/vapor barrier already in place instead of having another step of wrapping the whole house you save on labor, which tends to be the largest single bill on any jobsite. Obviously not the only solution, just a step above the typical house wrap.

[@JacquiKing-70]

I used Zip-R, but it didn't meet my shear requirements and we ended up shearing the house with plywood under the Zip-R. I need to add a radiant barrier over the Zip-R and under my rain screen and am planning to paint the Zip-R with radiant barrier paint. The radiant barrier paint is permeable, so will using that paint over the Zip-R be an issue? It's a 3-story house in Sonoma, CA. Please advise!

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

Sounds like you need a conference call between your engineer, architect and Huber.

[@singh0833]

I don't understand why people would use Zip if OSB plywood is structurally stronger. Wrapping the house doesn't take very long imo and super easy.

[@edwardbiagini3314]

Because they are a sponsor of your videos. The stuff is incredibly expensive and in particular Zip-r is so expensive it doesn’t make sense to use, neither comfort or ROI arguments make sense with zip.

[@steprob8692]

+1 Pricing zipR made it a no brainer to up to SIP for me.

[@PezaoMandinga]

Have you ever built where continuous insulation is a requirement?

[@Nubbe999]

I do not see what it's good for. Why not just use wind and moisture-repellent foil and then put the panel on or whatever outer layer you want. And why would you want a waterproof layer, if there are problems with ventilation there will be mould. What am I missing?

[@mistere5857]

You must be new to the channel. Look through some of his older videos and I think you will get the answers to your questions.

[@shvrdavid]

You are not missing much. If there is water or moisture intrusion, and there will be at some point, it will be a severe problem later.... You have to penetrate the zip to fasten anything to it, which will lead to moisture intrusion at some point.... Zip OSB swells very quickly when it gets wet. It has no protection like Advantech OSB subflooring does as far as water and moisture protection, other than the thin layer on the outside you will obviously penetrate all over the building, putting 1000's of future problem holes in it. Did I mention what happens if the outside of the board is exposed to the sum for to long?

[@highball7347]

@@mistere5857yeah zip is mentioned a lot. I’m guessing his sponsor.

[@aggiewoodie]

Frame, zip sheathing, either plain 7/16 or Zip-R w/ foam, then exterior insulation like polyiso or rock wool, then rain screen and/or furring before cladding.

[@teddywong6246]

Interior ventilation should be mitigated with an ERV / HRV system. The waterproof membrane on the exterior of Zip is ideal when employing rain screen strategies prior to siding installation.

[@janofb]

I'd think wrap is faster.

[@CybekCusal]

It's an OSHA violation to lean a step ladder against the wall like everyone is doing in this video. Pretty embarrassing.

[@Erick-di9gm]

Big deal. Don't see a badge on your shirt.

[@DeuceDeuceBravo]

Might be embarrassing to you, but it happens on virtually every job site at some point. 😄

[@common_c3nts]

90% of builder in Texas used sheet rock as sheathing and no house wrap. Texas construction is worse than a 3rd world country. Glad to see these builders are doing real construction as that is rare in Texas.

[@johnnichols2710]

Thats like 1940s construction. Believe it or not , gypsum board has a shear value. Thay must be using it as backing for stucco.

[@CPK007]

It seems like the guy on the ladder is excessively nailing that upper left corner. Is he the exception to the 'idiot proof' claim?

[@johnhusnick2647]

Nothing like safety first! Dude standing on top of a step ladder leaning against a wall to nail off the sheets!! Do better guys!

[@MrBaconis]

Horizontal tape seams kinda scare me. Future evestrough that drains the wrong way...

[@ColeSpolaric]

Now compare it to self adhered house wrapped....

[@RobertWinkky]

One sheet of zip is $50 and a sheet of osb is $13

[@zones4to11]

How much is the housewrap plus OSB ?

[@RobertWinkky]

@@zones4to1132sq ft of house wrap is a couple bucks.

[@welewisiii]

sponsored by huber - they never even mention henry blueskin vp 100 or hydro gap wrb. they are superior to zip in many ways. and no OSB involved. zip is better then tyvek or any woven wrb- but what about the premium products are they teaching best practices or advertising. i’ve used zip and don’t hate it but it’s not jesus on 4x8 sheet as advertised

[@skiptheroad]

ZIP sheathing is not waterproof. The manufacture describes it as being weather resistant but they do not claim that it is waterproof.

[@tylersmith293]

It’s so expensive though.

[@Fedgery007]

House wrap is so 5 years ago.

[@Eric998765]

As much as I love Matt and the Build Show, this video feels like straight propaganda. I live in a high wind zone area and my shed has had exposed Tyvek for 13 months, no siding at all, and it has not torn or blown off yet, and all I used were regular staples, not even cap nails.

[@fevgg]

I'm a little confused. The ZIP system is a vapor barrier system. I was told that a vapor barrier is needed inside the house, and only protection from water is needed outside. In my house was used tar paper, which allows a vapor to go in and out. Can you clarify a bit, please?

[@Crusader1815]

The only reason anyone would need a vapor barrier is if the wall assembly allows a cold condensing surface to exist inside the wall. The best way to prevent this is to use ZIP-R sheathing or spray a two inch layer of closed cell foam in the cavity against the sheathing.

[@Fedgery007]

Idiot proof?! Who’s building houses nowadays?! Day laborers. It’s not skilled laborers.

[@stephenostwinkle845]

Just watched some day laborers shingle a one story. I was taught to use a chalk line every course to ensure you are going straight up. Never seen them use it once. You should see the top row and how off they built. Glad it's not my house.

[@impalaon22inchrome]

Anyone else see the framer on the very top of the ladder. Better watch out in editing or osha is going to pay you a visit

[@lorimcquinn3966]

That "Carpenter" at 58 seconds would receive a Exit interview before he drew a healthy penalty for the Contractor in my world. No safety glasses...and using air nailer.....sad.

[@JudkinsMatthew]

That is not how you use that ladder. Should look at your safety policies.

[@plumbbuild6517]

In Gastonia, N.C. and surrounding areas the framers for many years would use OSB on outside and inside corners and freaking pink foam board or black saw dust board on the rest of the house the black board once it got wet would bow out one to two inches and the next stud it would bow in the same amount it was completely shit framing it looked horrible and I think there license should have been pulled for letting that crap happen for so many years you could cut through the entire house with a pocket knife in minutes, and I guarantee the contractor wouldn’t build their own house that shitty , it was a money game and greed got the best of them so sad.

[@davidkoski6361]

Just don't have printed logo upside down

[@ДимарикЧувашев]

Вижу Тима-ставлю лайк!

[@joshadunbar1]

Osha might have something to say about the guy in the background standing on top of a A frame ladder that’s leaned against a wall.

[@jerryminyard7460]

Good catch Karen

[@westinkriser6943]

go touch dirt

[@ajhdiuxneb7650]

It would be L&I in Washington

[@michaelpatrick6950]

Exactly. I couldn't take my eyes off the guy using a folding ladder incorrectly. Oh well, it's TX.

[@ColeSpolaric]

Probably not a big enough company or job site for OSHA to have authority

[@robluce6334]

Zip is meaningless for DIY. My labor cost is zero.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

"No ladder work." Everybody behind them on a ladder... This - and I'll keep saying it - square the wall on the deck, attaching the sheathing, THEN tip it up. Really.

[@prun8893]

It's not idiot proof when the idiot framers/builders don't follow nailing guidelines and tape it worse than a fake amazon package then the building inspector passes everything. Nothing is idiot proof.

[@justinrutledge6090]

What is the cost in labor an materials when the zip sheer is installed VS OSB an house wrap?? Does the bank appraise the house for more or less value on whether or not either application applied??? When the bank appraises the house at the end, does the windows, doors, kitchen, cabinets, master bed, bathroom, roofing, have a bigger impact then the sheer sheeting used?? I bet niether one of you will dare answer me. Your just salesman for the products you wanna try an present to a customer as to why your better.. when the actual realty was just presented to you.. im working on a 1910 remodel, not 1 piece of hardware in the house, not sheeting for sheer.. just 1x8 horizontal at a 45 T&g with tar papper.. no leaks, no problems.. but you buy into that hollywood crap..

[@koenraadprincen7212]

The ZIP-system is not _"old school"_ , but *_"wrong school"_* . The green layer on the OSB reduces drying potential to the outside in case of problems inside the wall. Any Housewrap is not better... What you need is an airtight *but vapor open* layer that's *also capillary-active* , i.e.(insulating) wood fibre panels (like Celit, Gutex, MDF.RWH,... in Europe) or like cementboard ("Hardy"). These materials guarantee the drying potential of your wall. Keeping your wall dry (rain screen) should be done with separate layers (and an air gap). Any capillary-active wall panel can handle some water, so special wraps for leaking rainwater are not necessary. _PS: Polyiso gives toxic smoke in case of a fire... don't use it._

[@ElvargsBane]

Where Matt is in Texas he has few cold days where condensation is driven from the warm inside through the wall to the cold outside. Also he tends to use lots of external insulation which protects the OSB from being the condensing surface. It won't be a problem with the other details he builds with in the climates that he does. Yes, if you build a heavy cavity insulated wall in a cold climate and your outside layer is a zip wrb, yeah lots of condensation would be trapped inside that cold surface that is the back of the zip sheathing. The wall could still dry to the inside but not as easily the colder and thicker the insulation is. I would like it if he covered more mixed and colder climates; talking directly on price point for different options that work in those climates. Double-stud walls that don't need exterior insulation, maybe in particular ones with an internal vapor barrier to cover pros and cons there.

[@koenraadprincen7212]

@@ElvargsBane The point is, that the principle of *airtight BUT vapor open* walls can be used in every climate and on each side of the wall. You need to control the displacement of air because moving air can transport 100 times more vapor (moisture) than vapor diffusion. The best material for the outside of a wall are insulating wood fibre boards as used in Europe (Celit, Gutex, Steico, Pavatex, Unger-Diffutherm,...) because these panels are: - Airtight - Thermally insulating - *Capillary active* (if they become wet on one side,they can dry on the other side). Those boards are now also produced in the US, look for *Timber HP* .

[@ericscott3997]

@@koenraadprincen7212 The products you mention & from what little I (respectfully) know seem to be as you say superior products, but what are the raw material & added labor costs in using these products? We'd all like to be able to build the "Perfect house" but sometimes there have to be compromises due to budget & having the labor workforce available.

[@koenraadprincen7212]

@@ericscott3997 That's correct and that's why you need to keep an eye on *_TimberHP_* to see how they evolve with their product line-up for the USA. For producing insulating wood fibre boards you need (more or less) the same kind of wood fibres as you would need for MDF or HB. Every sawmill produces a lot of those fibres... so plenty of resources in the USA (and Canada) available. For exterior use, you need to mix in some bitumen, paraffin or latex to make those boards weather proof for some months. It isn't rocket science ;-)

[@ericscott3997]

@@koenraadprincen7212 They seem to have some interesting products. That being said, since they appear to only have one small production facility in Maine, it's not very likely that many people are going to either know or care about them. Perhaps more online presence from them or a building science platform like Matt's to get the word out?

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

Zip again??? Smdh.

[@realifethunder]

First

[@raymondpeters9186]

Don't build with wood Wood is no good

[@Erick-di9gm]

Have fun with all the mold issues sealing up homes that tight!! Breathable house wrap is all I will ever use.

[@laloajuria4678]

so ur dumb in the past and the future?

[@teddywong6246]

Here we go again. Houses should not "breathe" through the joints in the framing or sheathing. That is uncontrolled infiltration and with it comes moisture that gets trapped in the vapor barrier. The breathing in a well built modern house is done through ERV / HRV systems and using vapor barriers on the interior that allow moisture to mitigate out of the wall cavity.

[@Erick-di9gm]

Breathes one way, only lets moisture and humidity out, not in. So you're using utility energy to blow my air conditioned or heated air outside? No thanks.

[@ericscott3997]

@@Erick-di9gm Tell me you don't grasp how an ERV/HRV system works in one post.

[@mikeydeighan]

Holy crap his voice is amost as high as Matts. 😅