My Favorite Wood Finish - All Natural, Quick and Easy.

[@brwinks9780]

Hi, I am a qualified French Polisher and have just been introduced to Osmo Polyx Wax and asked to try it on behalf of a new distributor. I have been studying the brochure and doing some research to be able to decide which of their products I would most like to use, They will sponsor me a free tin. After watching this video I have decided on 3043 Clear Satin. After watching how easy it is to work with, I am quite excited. Let's face it, shellac is difficult to work with, especially fadding up. I am also impressed with your jig to align sanding discs, and with your blessing would like to make one for myself. Very informative, thanks.

[@Craftswright]

I think you're going to love the Polyx br winks, it's ridiculously easy to put on, works great, and sooooo easy to repair if an area gets damaged. Of course, no need for a blessing, make away friend! Cheers

[@acidxero]

I've never heard of this stuff before, but it looks pretty amazing. I'm still taken aback by the brilliance of using a marking gauge to cut tape.. woodworking videos on KZbin are so often full of tips and tricks, 90% of which are all the same, so it's nice to reliably find new and creative things like that on here that I just don't see anywhere else. Awesome. I'm eager to try this stuff out. (both the finish, and the tape trick tbh)

[@Craftswright]

If I make someone eager to get out and work with their hands, then I’ve done my job I feel. You’ll love the Osmo btw 😉

[@UncleJoe1231]

I've been using it for about 6 months now & I agree, its the best!!!!!

[@andrewbrown8148]

I've never tried Osmo, but now I'm going to have to. I've heard Spagnuolo talk about it for quite some time, but never saw a review like yours. Thanks much~!

[@Craftswright]

I doubt you'll regret it my friend, it's my go-to except for the rare occasion it won't work on the project (applied over paint for example)

[@drfutato]

Thank you! Aside from the message of this video, the production quality was outstanding. The script, your voice, the camera angles, the demonstrations, everything was so professional. I’m subscribing...

[@tedbergstrom9241]

At about 4:55 of your video, you indicate that for woods with a high oil content, you should apply a coat of Osmo thin hardwax oil first. I am making a project using Koa wood, but cannot find out anything about its oil content. Do you have any knowledge about it, or where I can find more info? What is the benefit of using the thin hardwax oil for walnut and teak? Great video, I really appreciate your efforts!

[@Scotty476]

Would you use this for a dining table (with young children) that is going to take some abuse? Also do you need to use any special cleaning products. Thanks for the video

[@Craftswright]

I’ll answer this in two parts: Absolutely yes I would recommend it. Not because it’s the most rugged finish out there (it’s pretty high up there and Osmo also makes industrial strength bar finishes) but because it’s SO easy to repair. You don’t have to strip the whole piece back to bare wood like you do with other finishes. Check out the Wood Whisperer and Matt Estlea, both of them have videos where they use Osmo on high use areas: one on a kitchen counter, the other on a dinning table I hope that helps!

[@kleinball]

Can it be applied on top of stain? Making a pine kitchen table.

[@brantlers]

That random orbital sander disc installation jig blew my mind.

[@diaryofafounder]

Love this video! Is this a finish you’d recommend for a desk? I noticed the have glossy, satin and Matt. But I don’t know which one to go for. Probably not glossy as that’s too much of a sheen.

[@zoltan2728]

In somebody’s test video in the comment section an Osmo representative commented that you need to brush 2 coats then light sanding and 2-3 coats Osmo wiped on makes the maximum prevention against liquids and wear.

[@sofiatrincao4093]

Thanks a lot! You should be sponserd by Osmo, because they do everything in german! I used Osmo "lasur" and I liked it very much, but your video is fundamental for me now chosing this option for my pine tree floor!

[@steveocollin3864]

for the pads.... What are some brands ? do they come in different "roughnesses"?

[@Craftswright]

Hey Steve, sorry for the late reply. Honestly I'm unaware of any particular brands, I usually just search for white non-abrasive pads, or I pick them up from my local woodworking store. I think there might be a link to the ones I use in the description, but if not, here's one (amazon affiliate): amzn.to/2Z0Ch90

[@andreygv]

Hello, what kind of a sealer would you recommend to put on benches inside Sauna, cedar wood?

[@jennieputnam6964]

Is this a good product for beech butcher block kitchen counters? I would to keep the light color of the wood. The most popular product for my application is said to yellow or amber. Have you work with the tinted Osmo products?

[@Craftswright]

I’ve done limited work with the tinted Osmo and have been impressed, but not enough work to give an in-depth opinion/review. The Osmo Polyxshould work wonderfully as a butcher block counter finish. Side note: I LOVE beech, so good choice there! 😁

[@johnnynitrous81]

So for the walnut, just one coat of the thin clear then one coat of polyx?

[@carlosreira413]

Marking gauge tape cutting, that's genius! Sorry, you were saying something about Osmo?

[@lauramatamis9091]

How many coats do you recommend for Birch ply? And can I apply this over paint?

[@Craftswright]

Hi Laura, There's really no hard an fast answer to your question except for the paint one: that's a no. Osmo needs to be able to soak into the wood in order to work and paint creates an pretty solid barrier. As for the birch ply, I would think 2 coats should be just fine. Hope that helps!

[@marcoarigliano8133]

how about MDF? I'm planning to build a complete kitchen using black MDF por drawers and doors, and I quite sure to use OSMO

[@joep2837]

the tape marking trip was worth hitting subscribe ! looking forward to the rest of your vids.

[@Craftswright]

Glad I could help Joe, welcome and thanks 😊

[@markgough3337]

Great video. I’m working on finishing a lovely Birch burl end table, however the small cracks have already been filled with epoxy/resin. 98% of the surface is bare. Would you know how this product will interact with the epoxy/resin sections? Thanks in advance.

[@Craftswright]

Hey Mark, I would think it should be fine. Since the epoxy is so dense and already cured, the Osmo will just sit on top of it while it soaks into the wood around it. But I would think you could just buff off the excess sitting on the epoxy and be none the wiser. Hope that helps!

[@nainitalism]

@@Craftswright osmo is regularly used on wood resin table tops

[@Craftswright]

Interesting! The rep ive been chatting with at Osmo specifically said not to, but I may have to investigate further. Thanks for the heads up Arvind!

[@realtorscarlett4873]

I have a walnot countertop island in my kitchen. I have not heard anyone say I have to use the Osmo wood Wax first. Can I ask why that is needed? Another channel said they love Osmo but they use Wood River Tung Oil first as the first coat and then use Osmo. Does the Tung Oil act kinda like the Osmo Wood Wax serving the same purpose?

[@lucym8562]

I like Osmo too, and I can see why you love it. As you say it's impossible to screw up. I don't want to be unkind but we can't say the same about poly looking at your sample. You must have the same technique applying it as attaching the sandpaper to the sander. I want to clarify some points, because they can confuse people with no experience. - If you apply a good poly very diluted wiping it off immediately, you'll achieve a more similar look and feel, and the comparison will be fairer. My results have nothing to do with yours. Also a matt or satin finish, or polishing it with a fine abrasive pad could help. - The sound of the shellac... you can again polish it in a way you'll achieve a very smooth surface. And you can repair certain spots with shellac or apply new coats without removing it and it will blend. That's one of the well known advantages in restoration in general, and luthiery in particular. Applying something in a very different and careless way and expecting it's comparable to a wipe on / wipe off finish is not realistic. Maybe you have to do more work and experimentation but you can achieve great results with any finish. And then of course you'll see the difference due to the formulation of each one and you'll have your preferences. But it's more about your work and not all about the finish itself.

[@millenwagon]

Would this work over Danish oil? Or would it only work on bare wood?

[@Craftswright]

Only works on bare/raw wood, but you should be able to sand the danish oil off pretty easy 😁💪

[@millenwagon]

@@Craftswright ok thanks! There's a lot of surface, I'm probably too lazy to sand it all off 🤣

[@pjenslin1]

Can I put Osmo Polyx Oil on top of boiled linseed oil or Danish Oil?

[@troygoggans5495]

Not sure if this is still a viable channel but I do have questions. What type of pads are used in the video? I have been looking at trying Osmo but it’s cost has me apprehensive about trying to use it

[@Craftswright]

I believe I'm viable lol. White synthetic non-scuff pads

[@MrRsg99]

Thanks for sharing. Wondering if you have any tHoughts on using it for an electric guitar body or neck finish?

[@Craftswright]

Hey Bob, I think it would work well in those applications if the body and neck are bare wood. If the wood film finish on it (paint, colored lacquer, etc.) the Osmo won't be able to get into the wood fibers and won't work well at all. I think it would make beautiful neck finish though for sure!

[@MrRsg99]

Thanks. Yeah building a kit telecaster with a Alder body that I am considering just a bare wood finish.

[@Craftswright]

I would say go for it. Not only does the bare body lead to a killer road-worn look, the Osmo is so easy to repair if something goes wrong or you just want to sand an area back to bare wood

[@daniellec2172]

How do you thin the Osmo?

[@aWorkerThatCared]

ok I am asking for advise, I have a wood kitchen table, I don't feel like it has a thick plastic type feel to the finish, I don't know, but anyway, I was doing some crafts on the table, stupid, didn't cover the table well and got a couple drips of resin on the table, didn't notice and then they dried hard, so I tried to get them off with Krud Kutter. well that got the resin drops off the table and now I have a small circle area that looks like I took the finish off the table? that part is still the same color, but it doesn't have the shiny finish and when the sun shines on it you can really see the area, so... what can I put on there to make the area that I think I must have stripped the shiny finish off. will this stuff from this video work and do I have to worry about matching the actual color? should I use that Krud Kutter stuff all over the whole table to make it all look the same before putting something on it. The are of damage is about 8 inches in a circle. I know nothing about all this stuff, I put some oil cleaner on it and it looks good until after it dries and then it looks the same. thanks for the advise

[@LifeDose2]

i really cant tell the diffrence... the only finish im using is osmo. i never tried anything else. watching this video,, im thinking about trying something else just because i didnt see any diffrence between the osmo and the shellac. maybe rubio monocoat will be way better? i dont know. all i know is, i want the best finish for my clients. great video.

[@keithtate3298]

Just finished my first project using Osmo Polyx (large walnut "river" table). I previously was a huge Arm-R-Seal fan, and although it produces a nice finish, Osmo is much easier to apply and I like the natural feel it leaves on the wood. Can you share your suggested care instructions for cleaning up basic spills? Is it as simple as wiping down with a damp cloth?

[@WhiteLabWorkshop]

Thanks for the great review! I’ll have to give this stuff a shot at the next opportunity.

[@Craftswright]

I highly recommend it!

[@JuicytheNatty]

If it’s anything Rick and Morty related, I’m down! Great vids dude!

[@Craftswright]

You know I thought people would have a harder time guessing 😂

[@jacplacek]

Great video. Well made! Hats off to you.

[@austinliuigi]

what wood did you use in the test?

[@sumosprojects]

G’day mate, I’m going to order some of this from a small business in Queensland as it looks like good stuff, cheers from DownUnder 🍻👍

[@truthh8322]

This work on cherry?

[@edhanna401]

Thanks for this video, looking forward to try it

[@synthdude7664]

Nice! Have you ever heard of bio supra? What are your thoughts on it ?

[@Craftswright]

I have not, tell me more!

[@shanejohnson800]

I’m sold I will buy some of that finish I generally use boiled linseed but I’m all about trying new shit

[@bitTorrenter]

1:51 - What makes you think that d-limonene would be more harmful worse than odorless mineral spirits?

[@Craftswright]

My understanding is it can have a greater adverse effect on some people than the other, but I’m no expert

[@rattlejake0422]

WORTH IT FOR THE MASKING TAPE TRICK ! ! !

[@simoncapizzi9689]

Anybody else's head explode when he attached his paper to his sander?

[@Craftswright]

I can't tell if this is sarcasm or not, but either way, thanks! lol

[@brianhenderson6294]

@@Craftswright absolutely not sarcasm...I had the same response, like "whaaaaaaaaaaaaat?"

[@nefariousyawn]

Another KZbinr named A Mere Creator made a little sandpaper caddy using the same concept, where a stack of papers are pre-loaded on the pegs. It's pretty clever.

[@Craftswright]

I don’t think I got the idea from that channel, but it does work like a charm!

[@petropsaroudis2384]

The portal gun at the end 😆

[@youtubechannel12371]

I’m sold 👏🏻 thanks for the vid well done!

[@Craftswright]

No problem 👍 I think you're going to really like the stuff!

[@g.f.glatfelter2928]

Well done video! Entertaining and informative, thanks :)

[@Craftswright]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@positivelywoodworking]

Thanks for sharing! I'm always looking for new/better finishes, and this looks pretty intriguing. I really like Danish oil, but don't always want that extra bit of tint that seems to come with it. This product looks like it leaves a much more natural hue. I'll have to try it out!

[@Craftswright]

I used Danish oil for a while too. Polyx knocks it out of the park. And you're right, it doesn't "yellow" the work as much as other finishes do. Really great stuff

[@jeffheimbecker9439]

Can I apply it to a painted piece of ash plywood? It's a beer pong table, that's why the plywood..

[@Craftswright]

If it’s painted, no. The OSMO won’t penetrate through the paint. A good polyurethane would probably your best bet for that project. Sounds fun!

[@jeffheimbecker9439]

@@Craftswright thanks so much!!

[@Art-is-craft]

I am very doubtful that it could match shellac which can be polished out. I am sure it is great for a good looking finish but in fine furniture making shellac can produce an ultra polished finish.

[@BrandonDJx]

I have been using Osmo Polyx oil for a few months now and I struggle to achieve a flat, even sheen finish. I use the semi matt mix and apply it using a synthetic brush ensuring I use it sparingly. I have found the first coat to be very patchy and rough to feel. I was using it on birch plywood and prepared the plywood by sanding with 240grit as recommended on the tin and cleaned each surface with a lint free cloth before applying the oil. Because I have applied it sparingly ensuring an even coverage I have never wiped down the panels for excess. What do you recommend to prevent this from happening and do you have any tips or things not to do when applying the oil from your experience? Maybe a comparison between applying with the different appliacators would make for an interesting video! Thanks

[@dscraft6358]

Great video! Osmo hard wax oil is the best! My favorit as well. That's what I used on my last furniture videos.

[@Craftswright]

It's awesome stuff isn't it? What's your latest project?

[@markcarroll238]

Interesting idea to talk over the pieces we're trying to hear..

[@GillianMorrison]

Ah, the fact that I finished with 600 grit explains why mine was awful. Will sand down to 160.

[@christobaben3944]

Rock and Morty Halloween project.. portal gun?

[@Craftswright]

Oh man I wish I had the time to do that, that would have been awesome haha but you're not far off 😉

[@AnthonyBowman]

Next video: A plumbus from Rick and Morty

[@Craftswright]

Man I wish... I thought about it but couldn’t figure out a way to do it justice without blatant copyright infringement (with all the made up processes and tool names)

[@AnthonyBowman]

Hahaha nice. Looking forward to the next vid!

[@NickLuker]

Based on that video teaser, I'm guessing we are having a tie-dye acid trip in the forest while hunting for a tree to mill.

[@Craftswright]

Hahaha wouldn't that be fun!

[@TheFiown]

At 120 euros a pot on eBay from the UK, that's a lot !

[@Craftswright]

That's strange, it's a German product so it should be less expensive over there than it is here. I would check your local woodworking supplier!

[@dj2028]

I don't at all see the value in saying you won't provide an opinion but that it is embedded in the comments. Really man?

[@runifuceeme406]

FOUR COATS OF SHELLAC?? ANNND PASTE WAX?! TOTALLY UNFAIR ON THE COMPARISONS! FOUR COATS OF SHELLAC IS OVERKILL..

[@MinHongJiwoodstudio]

hi..I got to use osmowax after watching your video.Thank you for being an inspiration to me.

[@Craftswright]

I hope you liked it and it worked well for you!

[@MinHongJiwoodstudio]

@@Craftswright Oh, thank you. Please visit my channel from time to time ^^ I'll come over from time to time. ^^