My High Flow Nozzle is better than a Volcano hotend!

[@CNCKitchen]

Use the code *CNCKitchen* to get Curiosity Stream for only $14.99 a year! curiositystream.com/CNCKitchen DIY or buy a high flow extrusion system? What's your take?

[@Rayan-Singh]

You could actually patent this yoursel

[@zid_just_zid]

Very interesting, i wonder what difference it would make if you had the wires poking about a third into the melt zone from each hole on an unenlarged chamber x wire version, it would be a bit more fiddly to make but since most of the space is still open it might impede/affect the flow less while still give more surface area for heat transfer.

[@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart]

Would induction heating help keeping the insides of the nozzle warm?

[@TheOrganicartist]

Hi CNC, What about using a copper or brass insert? like a triangle where the mid-points of the 3 sides are folded to connect at the center? it might result in a more symmetrical splitting and recombination of the filament

[@andreasvogler1875]

Maybe you could make a vertical cut through the thread, insert a piece of copper sheet metal and braze it in place. It would have more surface than a piece of wire.

[@ChristianLonneker]

If you screw the nozzle inside a M6 nut you have a flat face on the nut where you can start drilling. Very interested video and results!

[@marc_frank]

that's a nice idea!

[@nilsirrah7672]

Smart !

[@nukularpictures]

Id use an old heater block but a nut is also a good idea.

[@ralfr321]

Predrilling the nut should make the process really simple.

[@Sekir80]

@@ralfr321 And that's called a jig. I was thinking it would be a great idea, but making it from a simple nut is a brilliant idea!

[@EricMBlog]

Big thumbs up to 3D Solex/Carl for being all for this video. Some companies get way too uptight about these sorts of things!

[@DarkAlaranth]

I'm actually MORE interested in getting a CHT nozzle now.... (Don't wanna play with drills etc, as I don't have the equipment. :) )

[@CNCKitchen]

Definitely! I'm sure he doesn't want to harm the industry with his patent. He just needed to make sure that he sees a return on investment for his idea and development.

[@MrConcord75]

@@DarkAlaranth yup! This is actually great advertising for the CHT nozzle. They are now on my list for possible upgrades.

[@pappaflammyboi5799]

Patents are logically inconsistent moral imperatives.

[@Rippthrough]

@@CNCKitchen To be honest I bought some CHT's just from the back of your tests, they're impressive, I'm flowing 50% more than even my copper V6's can do in the same space envelope, with flexibles too, which I thought would be more of an issue (although I'm having some retraction tuning trouble). So I don't think he can complain too much at you DIYing some ;)

[@adayco]

A couple of nuts on the threads to lock the position, a dimple on the flat of the nut, and a center drill bit. If you have a watchmaker near by, this would be easy…if they find interest. :-)

[@CNCKitchen]

Good point!

[@nefariousyawn]

Most of the comments say to mill a flat spot, but this technique is clever for not requiring the threads to be destroyed.

[@TDOBrandano]

And the nut can also be re-used as a guide if the hole came out properly centered. You could also just create a guide nut by applying the same technique to a plain M6 bolt before sacrificing nozzles

[@wolfwind9658]

I forgot about the nut trick.

[@taliamon]

I completely forgot about the nut trick. Thanks for the reminder.

[@Tarex_]

Why not file the wire to a sharp line on the top? The 3d solex has very sharp edges that help shear the filament instead of forcing it against a blunt edge like the wires rounded profile

[@danieljenkins4213]

This is what I came to say, but leave the ends round for easier soldering

[@Tarex_]

@@danieljenkins4213 Exactly, would even plug it by pressing the ends like a rivet, so the temperature limitation of the solder is removed

[@cooperised]

@@Tarex_ Peening probably won't make as good a thermal joint as soldering, and peening the second end so that the first remains tight is also tricky. I reckon silver solder is probably the best way, especially because we're not talking about mass production.

[@Tarex_]

@@cooperised agreed, aluminum brazing rods are also an option

[@Mr_Yod]

That's what I was going to say: file the the wire to a triangular shape with the point facing up. =)

[@delsydsoftware]

It would be fun to see the same modification made to a volcano nozzle, to see if there was any positive or negative gain in performance.

[@Leclaron]

I was just about to say the same thing! I have a few spare nozzles for my volcano clone so I might just give it a try myself.

[@TommiHonkonen]

super volcano with cht tho

[@beetrix12]

YEAH supervcano! Hereby named 'reverse porcupine'

[@testboga5991]

It should work. But cht nozzle in volcano won't be as good.

[@thatbee4923]

watch the whole video ;)

[@davidmalawey]

Even with an MS in mechanical engineering and several years of 3d printing experience and cross training in metal 3d printing, you're unveiling insights that I didn't know about. These insights are very accurate and very well communicated. I mean you're saying stuff that's worthy of peer-reviewed literature and making it digestible for average hobbyists. Good communication in engineers is gold. You earn the gold my friend. Awesome work.

[@taliamon]

To prevent the wandering, you need to pre-drill with a center drill. Essentially, it's a very wide shaft with a very narrow, and more importantly short bit. It's specifically designed to prevent drill walking during the formal drilling process by giving the twistie a place to start. Are you using an edge finder to locate as well? This assumes you have a digital readout on your mill, but it's still doable if all you have is gauges on the spindles.

[@quelixfenzer5108]

you can also center it with a feelergauge and a pin or end mill shank in the chuck. just bring your pin closer till you feel slight resistance with the feelergauge between the part and the pin and then move the tool up and over by the radius of the pin + the radius of the screw + the thickness of the gauge and you will be on center.

[@collinbardini]

Also, drilling in a round surface can be tricky. Maybe if a nut where threaded on and super glued in place, you could use that as a flat spot to spot drill. The nut could then be used as a tool when making more hot ends.

[@maxhammick948]

You could also mill a flat onto the threads to give a nicer surface to stick a drill bit into. It would give you an easy surface to cut off excess wire & solder, although with a thread die it's already pretty easy

[@GigsTaggart]

for these little sizes pcb drills may work. carbide though so brittle, but stubby

[@arthurmorgan8966]

What about printing a jig that will hold the bit in place just long enough so it can drill the opening part, like half mm?

[@JamieHarveyJr]

Kudos to 3Dsolex for being OK with you exploring this publicly! I had no idea about their product but now it’s on my radar and like the concept of the design 👍🏻

[@testboga5991]

@@soundspark How about they sell their stuff and don't bother hobbyists? If Apple had patented a hole with some stuff in it, people would be outraged. The intellectual effort in their patent is a joke and the idea that increased surface area in a nozzle equals better heat transfer is as old as printers are.

[@JamieHarveyJr]

In the end, I purchased a CHT nozzle from Bondtech, so 3Dsolex still wins lol. Definitely helped me push more volume through my system with a very easy mod.

[@PiDsPagePrototypes]

@@JamieHarveyJr Same here, hadn't heard of them, now looking to be a customer.

[@MihaiDesigns]

🤯 why didn't I think of this!? Impressive results really, I wouldn't have imagined it. Can't wait to see the results for a modified Volcano nozzle.

[@smittery]

So i watched this video a couple days ago and I've been thinking about it a lot, primarily things like improving flow in mid-high flow applications. Volcanos, big build volume stuff. It just hit me that something like this might also dramatically improve the speed at which you can run 0.2-0.3 nozzles, which is the biggest reason I don't use them. Also, it might help other flow challenged nozzles such as ruby nozzles.

[@LeftJoystick]

It’s all fun and games until your Urologist breaks out the copper wire, some solder, and a threading die.

[@techdiyer5290]

2:20 Use an endmill to start the hole, or use a center drill and then the actual drill. The center drill is a drill but much smaller and is very stiff, so it doesn't wander, its used to start holes, sort of like a center punch

[@TheTrex600ESP]

Always use center drill for accurate holes. And using an endmill to make flat is also a good thing. But in this case is enough with center drill :)

[@bandana_girl6507]

I'd probably also go through a thread peak on the front side so that the back side will exit in a trough. That SHOULD improve the end result if memory serves correct

[@williamchamberlain2263]

Grind/mill the threads off and make a flat area to drill through. Tidy the cut threads up to remove burrs.

[@Jericho951]

Hi Stefan. Could you possibly try to file the wire into triangle shape before inserting it into nozzle? That might help with flow restriction.

[@Shreyam_io]

i was about to comment that....

[@ameliabuns4058]

oooh smort!

[@naasking]

Filing would reduce cross sectional area, and since heat flux is proportional to that area you'd reduce the heat transfer to the filament. Copper wire is soft though, so maybe hammer it into a different shape? Might still reduce area but not as much.

[@christopherrobin8134]

File down the wire into a shape approximating a blade. You’d get the internal heating zone, and the flow resistance would decrease due to a decreased flow area reduction.

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

What about instead of inserting wires, we cut a longitudinal slot in the nozzle and insert a thin copper plate, like a splitter. Maybe more efficient and definitely easier to do.

[@nilsirrah7672]

First he gotta mill that shape. Which might not be easy

[@GerManBearPig]

@@nilsirrah7672 you could just cut the flat (top) side of the nozzle with a dremel

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

@@nilsirrah7672 Why complicate stuff and start milling, when there's a simple angle grinder or a dremel. 😃

[@champifun2]

Or perhaps file the copper wire before inserting it, so that the wire looks more like a sharp blade ?

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

@@champifun2 But the plate can be longer or shorter, so we have more parameters to play with. Basically cheaply replicating the production one.

[@pugglez4798]

I think you should try to make this nozzle again but have the rod that is going through closer to the bottom. Since it's around the top, the filament would have had very little time to melt at that point, so it is trying to push around that rod when it's relatively cold. However, if the rod was at the bottom, it would have already heated up mostly, so it could flow around the rod easier because it is less viscous. I think this could substantially decrease the resistance, hence increasing the flow.

[@RandomInside]

Very good and logical idea ....

[@sirseriously]

I think the point is that the copper conducts heat better from the heat block. Lower and it would become a heat sink instead.

[@Rippthrough]

I used to make my own by just pressing a torx bit into the back of a nozzle so it deformed it into the filament and gave much more surface area.

[@GerManBearPig]

How do you keep the threading on the outside from deforming?

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@GerManBearPig by holding the hex part i guess, and putting a nut in the outside...

[@butsukete1806]

@@GerManBearPig You could either put a nut around it before pressing, or recut the threads after.

[@Rippthrough]

@@GerManBearPig Put a steel nut on it.

[@hdragoon1710]

@@Rippthrough Do you leave a small piece of the torx bit inside the nozzle or just deform the nozzle back?

[@jean-baptistevioix7250]

One solution to drill is using a nut and drill the nut and the nozzle at one time. It's to find the center of the nut because it's a rectangle (or square).

[@RFi731]

this sounds brilliant.

[@jean-baptistevioix7250]

It's *easy* to find the center of the nut

[@salesjunkie8309]

This☝

[@TheAuxLux]

You've inserted wire perpendicular to the wall sides, but what if you would put it in angle? This might help with the flow and surface area. Anyways, briliant idea for video :)

[@aimlessweasel]

I was thinking the same thing. It would be more difficult to drill though. You might be able to get some angle by machining a nut first, as others have suggested for centering.

[@novaenricarter705]

@@aimlessweasel I would make a small jig for it. Could probably use a corner bracket and bend it to the angle you wish, then just fasten the nozzle to the jig in anyways you want and drill it with a drill press.

[@fatihkagan6706]

It would require a specialized tool/drill to make an angled bore. But it would definitely help I think

[@tedgaunt3044]

This is exactly what is diagrammed in the patent pictures that Stephan showed in the video. Good idea.

[@lovecastle7154]

@@novaenricarter705 you drill the whole and tap the thread last

[@Sylvan_dB]

For higher temperature use, perhaps staking the wire in place instead of soldering it would suffice. Simply use a fine point punch to deform the wire and the hole, trim, and clean the threads. Also using the fine point punch to center punch the hole location before drilling may reduce bit wander, as will reducing the bit length protruding from the chuck. Or use a center drill.

[@zoltanmeszaros8001]

I tried it yesterday, no success. Also I think the temprature game will have it detach from each other due to the shrinking and expanding. Did you manage to have some success?

[@DanteYewToob]

I literally bought a 3D printer because of you, I was robbed and lost a lot of stuff including my 3D printer and I still watch these videos because they’re so good. So before I had a printer, and after I no longer have one… I still enjoy these videos because your enthusiasm and knowledge is fun and interesting to watch. Hopefully I’ll be financially stable enough to get another printer sometime soon, and then I’ll hav an actual reason to watch these videos! Haha (I had an Ender 3 pro for about a month before I was robbed and lost it. I lost most of my belongings, but the 3D printer stung differently because I literally JUST got it.. aside from my sentimental stuff like the computer and old phones with all of the pictures of my recently dead dog, the printer bugged me the most. P.s. that’s my pup in my photo. His name was Buster and he was the best boy ever.)

[@macrumpton]

Who steals a 3d printer? It is hard to imagine a less convenient thing to try and discretely unload.

[@HighVoltageMadness]

Sorry for your loss. I feel bad that they took you stuff. But seriously who the hell would through the effort to steal an inexpensive printer. Just wow.

[@SianaGearz]

@@HighVoltageMadness Usually a disgruntled family member or a partner, motive is not financial gain, but to cause as much damage as possible.

[@milkhbox]

I'm so sorry for yor loss of your buddy and your things. I can somewhat empathize; our house burned a few months ago, so we ended up losing a cat and all of our belongings.

[@DanteYewToob]

@@SianaGearz Something like that. I was in the process of moving and my house was sold to a corrupt slumlord basically. He randomly showed up with off duty cops and told us we had 24hrs which is illegal, we called our lawyer and got papers telling him to fuck off and it it didn’t matter because the cops were idiots. They said “Oh well, you can let the court decide it” and escorted us out of the house. Within 6 days we were let back into the house and given full time until the end of our lease which was still 2 months to move out but by then the scum bags ransacked the place, and stole everything. Most of everything was already packed and so they stole everything valuable and unpacked and dumped everything else and went through it all stealing everything. I’m currently in a lawsuit with the owner, the police department because of sheer negligence in allowing off duty cops to use police uniforms and vehicles to bully us out of our home. We basically have a rock solid case. Turned out the owner was rushing us out because he is committing bankruptcy fraud on the house and his paperwork said that he lived there since he bought it, which is untrue because obviously I lived there. It’s something he does with a group of people, they buy houses and then file for bankruptcy on it and then.. idk.. it’s fraudulent conveyance or something like that. Apparently they do it because my house (although kind of a shithole but not too bad) is currently worth like 13k… that’s what the bank is selling it for. So his partners step in a buy the house for that much, fix it up and sell it for a huge profit. It’s a serious crime. So basically what happened was, he tried throwing us out, our lawyers very quickly discovered what he was doing and he panicked and showed up with cops to throw us out. He basically trashed our stuff and told his people to steal everything and fuck with us because we exposed him. He knew we would be let right back into the house but wanted to ruin us. My mother and I ate it, and continued going after the scumbag and found out that he’s done this to a bunch of other people. So don’t worry, he’s fucked. So yeah… it was a fucked up situation, and we had a really difficult time finding a place to move into but I’m settled and good now.

[@Donnerwamp]

This should be explored way more than just putting one or more wires with varying diameter in the filament path! Some ideas I'd like to see tested: - different angles - adding two rows of wires in an alternating pattern on the left and on the right side (this seems to be a case where a Volcano/Supervolcano nozzle may be necessary) - combining different diameter wires - shaping the wires before inserting (like triangular, notches or maybe bending the wire) - using "spikes"/cut wire pieces instead of full width wires - using different wire materials - using a (maybe sharpened) sheet of metal instead of wire (may be difficult to build)

[@Makatea]

Only silver has a marginally higher heat conductivity than copper (less than 10 % more). Brass on the other hand, conducts heat a lot less well. Building a prototype heaterblock and nozzle out of gold- or rhodium-plated copper or silver (to prevent surface-oxidation) should yield astonishingly great results. A triangular shape of the wire with the sharp side up should also perform better, both because of better "cutting"-perfornance and a bigger surface-area after that. For an equal wire diameter, that should provide an improved performance. There's probably an optimum wire diameter compromise between more heat put into the plastic while keeping a sufficiently large channel open as not to reduce the flow-rate. If there is a snug enough fit between the hole and the wire, eventually helped by some slight taps with a center punch, there should be no need for soldering at all. Your last idea might be pretty easy to do by sawing a slit into the threaded part of the nozzle, then solder in a copper plate.

[@Donnerwamp]

@@Makatea By changing the material I was thinking less about improving heat conductivity but more about surface structure and longevity, especially with stuff like carbon fiber filament. But how much would it help? Or is there a sweet spot between surface area and shapes that restrict flow? That's something you could test with different shapes. I think soldering is necessary as you need to get the wire in and maybe hace different expansion rates at higher temperatures when using diferent metals. Hm, I feel kinda stupid because I didn't think of that. I was in full machining mode and thought about killing a slit into the nozzle... Yeah, much easier that way. I've had another idea just now, when using a metal plate as divider, how about adding a little spin tocthe filament? I'm not sure what this may achieve besides better mixing when pushing two colora through one nozzle, but maybe this distributes the heat more evenly in the filament or something.

[@racvv]

@@Makatea maybe with a cutter blade! It may enlarge the area while keeping a bigger area

[@CommanderJPS]

@@Makatea i thought that about the last paragraph, slot from the top and then solder the gap afterwards to re-seal the entrance pathway Edit: Stanley blade cut down and shaped? If conducting the heat into the stainless steel will be a problem then i wonder is it would be possible to copper plate it?

[@CommonApathy]

Feel like thinner wire give a higher chance of the wire failing.

[@goury]

Also an engineering advice: after drilling an offcenter hole through one side, rotate your thing 180° and drill another one from the opposite side. You'll have to bend the wire a bit, but it will be precisely centered.

[@GoingtoHecq]

I think part of his problem is that the drill bit is grabbing onto the threads. Seeing as this is a single thread it would not have the same results on the other side.

[@Valery_1954]

@@GoingtoHecq , надфилем сделать ровную площадку, потом сверлить.

[@Mr.Titanium1911]

The off center hole could have been avoided if he centered it properly and then started with a center drill.

[@carbide1968]

You must find center with a edge finder or spinning a indicator. Then you MUST. Use a micro center drill you start your drill off straight. Done like that and you'll be with a few thousands of center and straight. Love what your doing over there and wish i could show you hands on proper machining but you will get it.

[@KarrMcDebt]

Hmm, I'm thinking a vertical notch on each side just big enough for a piece of razor blade from a disposable razor to slide into. No soldering needed if it fits tight, should still increase heat transfer, and would cause less resistance.

[@PaulG.x]

A few tips that might improve this: 1. You could increase the bore where the copper bar is to compensate for the obstruction the bar causes. 2. When you solder the bar, you can remove the excess solder by dropping the nozzle on a hard surface before the solder solidifies - the impact causes all the excess solder to splash off. Then clean the thread with a triangular file of a suitable size. 3. You can make the bar form and interference fit so that you don't need to solder it. Use some annealed copper wire (you can anneal it easily yourself) that is slightly larger than the hole you drill . Roll the wire between 2 smooth plates (6mm steel would be suitable) applying some force to the plate with your hand . Repeated rolling will reduce the diameter of the wire. When the wire almost fits the hole , heat the nozzle to expand the hole so the wire fits. 4. You should have added the second wire in the same orientation as the first. Putting it at 90 ° only adds flow restriction

[@Marko-fj6jw]

Hello Stephan, I have to tell you that you are doing an incredibly good job. I enjoy and appreciate your channel and learn every time! Please just keep up the good work!

[@devilwhale]

Notch the back of the nozzle for a solderless joint. Square the ends of the wire, then you can try multiple inserts with different cross section shapes, thicknesses.

[@TheCaphits]

The solder is important for heat transfer.

[@richdobbs6595]

It seems like it would be possible to deform the wire inside of the nozzle to increase surface area while reducing flow resistance. Alternatively, with Silver solder, it might be possible add a few fins that break up the flow without closing off the flow through the center.

[@CamsGames1]

I saw a similar design in the TurboTap which was made to greatly increase the rate at which beer can be served. Splitting the flow up into small sections will create more laminar flow and greatly reduce pressure loss due to high friction turbulent flow. This is a very smart application

[@AdityaMehendale]

Refreshing to see that even after so many years of diy-3dp, the innovations still seek to push the boundaries. :)

[@AdityaMehendale]

Oh, yeah - and drill from two sides (after flattening) for better centering

[@SianaGearz]

Röhrenlot is nothing special... it's Sn97Cu3 right? This is non eutectic but it starts melting at the same temperature as Sn99 and Sn100, it just doesn't become fully liquid until higher up, but it will still have no holding strength at higher printing temperatures whatsoever just the same. There's kind of little point to it.

[@AdityaMehendale]

@@SianaGearz Huh, indeed, I am wrong/ you are correct. I meant SnAg alloy, but that too has a low-ish melting point. I assumed from my subjective observation (soldering-iron vs. propane torch) that the latter reached a much higher temperature, but this is not the case! Thanks for this remark :)

[@technosworld2]

This actually increases my interest in the CHT seeing other implementations of a similar idea work really well

[@cartermaneki]

Great video as always, Stefan! As a mechanical engineer, I always appreciate your analytical data and applications to material science. Interesting results!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thank you very much!

[@ricklynch]

To drill on a Round Part: 1. Find true center. - Edge Finder or more accurately, Test Dial Indicator 2a. Use Center Drill (small). 2b. Or use small 2 Flute or 3 Flute center cutting Endmill to produce a small "flat spot" before Center Drilling or Drilling. 3. Carefully "peck drill" hole. 4. Flip part 180° and repeat above steps. 5. Deburr if necessary. Side Note: - When Reaming remember, a Reamer will follow a drilled hole, straight or not. - A Bored hole is the utmost accurately machined hole. Good knowledgeable video! 👍

[@GoingtoHecq]

I think that you could have also tried putting the second wire in the same direction as the first wire. Also, a machinist could use a slot cutter to cut a slot in the nozzle, and add a thin plate of brass. Perhaps you could do it similarly using a hack saw.

[@Buciasda33]

Amazing video. 1. Get thinner Copper wire. 2. You have to use Micro Drill Bits and a Small Mill, I have a Proxxon, but they are expensive. 3. File down the Wire into a triangle before inserting it and try to make the base of the triangle as thin as possible. 4. Use Silver Solder, or something that can withstand at least 250°C so you can print ABS. 5. I think 2 copper wires is best, but you have to get them very close together.

[@calvinrohanraj8511]

Try using thinner wires. They will provide lesser resistance and you can put many of them in one nozzle

[@PelleWessman]

Was thinking the same, would be very interesting to see a test of different wire sizes + as some have suggested: thin plates, as I guess a too thin of a wire will split well but not heat well + maybe deform under huge pressures.

[@samkillzgames6940]

I've only been a machinist for a few months, but what we do when drilling cylindrical parts is use a spot drill bit first to make a dimple or starter hole. Spot drill is a very short and rigid bit that you could still get in the same or similar sizes. The back of the bit is quite a bit thicker than the cutting end, you could possibly even put the spot drill into your old chuck if switching chucks would be easier than cranking in different drill bits. The only other advice I can give is to use some cutting oil. You don't need it so much for preserving your tools, but just placing a small amount where you want the tool to begin cutting may help with resistance and keep that wandering minimal. We're able to place holes precisely into stainless steel cylinders and that's mostly the method we use (besides the machines being CNC).

[@marsgizmo]

This is pretty interesting!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks Adrian! Looking for some nice, high extrusion width prints from you. The 2 mm 3DSolex might be great for that even on a Prusa.

[@marsgizmo]

@@CNCKitchen that’s a great idea! I was thinking to do something like that, thanks for the hint 😉

[@Rychlas]

@@CNCKitchen How about cutting the nozzle along its longer axis, and putting a piece of copper sheet in the cut? < || > < || > < > ..\_/ || - cut with a copper sheet inside PS: You can also file the edges in the middle of the sheet that'll be inside the nozzle, to make it sharper to even further ease the flow. I believe it could be relatively easy to do. Make a vertical (along the axis of rotation) cut on a bandsaw or with a careful cut with a handsaw. Cut a piece of copper plate to be slightly wider than the nozzle. Drill a bit wider hole the length of the copper plate (or skip this part if the flowrate is enough to reduce die swell). Insert the plate, solder it. If you don't want to solder, you could try to heat up the nozzle from its tip to expand it and put the plate in the freezer, then try to hammer it down the hole, but you'd have to work on the tolerances quite a bit for this to work (you'd have to be careful not to pry the nozzle open, too). You could also just tig weld it. Then the only thing left to do is to thread it and to file the upper parts of the plate to fit the shape of the nozzle's chamfer.

[@molomono9481]

I would love to see the same mod possibly even multiple times in a volcano nozzle. Because in a volcano nozzle there is more room for the specific attributes causing the negative properties to normalize. Such as the pressure difference and the die warping effect. Thus making them easier to manufacture with similar results which implies potential for further improvement. Also to manufacture a nozzle like this propperly it needs to be done on a lathe/mill combo machine. That way al the holes can be lined up correctly, mill the hex shape (unless your stock is already hex) and drill the horizontal holes for the wires first. Then use the lathe to mill the rest of the nozzle + threading. This also allows the soldering to occur before threading. As always amazing video, always inspiring and entertaining. I always walk away with new knowledge after these videos.

[@GregorShapiro]

Talk to Stefan Gotteswinter and ask him to make you some custom nozzles! I'm sure that a collaboration would be very interesting for you.

[@ralfr321]

This old Tony would be another candidate.

[@ethansdad3d]

Learned so much about nozzle flow from this video. Thank you so much!

[@rush1041]

Was considering buying a volcano hotend! Now I have to watch this haha.

[@REDxFROG]

No.. Get the CHT nozzle.

[@Petro_Bandera]

For me the Volacno it's still the option. Too much effort with this.

[@REDxFROG]

@@Petro_Bandera CHT has zero effort.. volcano has high effort and changes dimensions.

[@RFi731]

volcano might be a better option for abrasive filaments.

[@АлексейДмитриев-ш1ф]

@Rush buy a volcano and one CHT nozzle. Cut off the nozzle part of CHT and keep only the thread. Screw it into the heat block and then use standard V6 nozzles. So you get CHT splitter, increased length of volcano and cheap V6 nozzles

[@rcmaniac25]

Love the investigation, and also like that this is done within the constraints of existing nozzles instead of needing a whole new nozzle/extruder system.

[@goury]

An idea (patent is pending): put a glass-coated nichrome wire to heat the material from inside. Should be possible to melt a couple of cubic centimeters of material per second easily. To make the whole endeavor easier, use 3mm system. To easily coat the wire, just dip it in some electrically non-conductive epoxy.

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 sadly, It needs coating if you want to have any meaningful amount of it.

[@RFi731]

i don't think it would last long even i have doubts in the copper wire..

[@goury]

@@RFi731 why wouldn't it?

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 because this is how electricity works in our universe

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 plastic may not be conductive (yet some are), but the nozzle and the wire itself still are.

[@EricRobb]

I love the inventive nature of your videos. They are not just made for entertainment purposes, and are still very interesting. Keep up the great work!

[@scarehorror98]

Hey Stefan! I absolutely LOVE your videos and I can tell you come from an academic background with how you present your data. I had a request, could you show error bars and sample amount (N = #) in future publications? I think it goes a long way in critically assessing the data you're spending so much time collecting. I'm fully aware that variance in the data will be quite high and lowering it would require an exponential amount of extra effort, but I still think it'd be great to have with that pretext. Just some constructive feedback as a likeminded enthusiast of this field!

[@mikeontwitie]

Here is a thought: saw/file a slit vertically into the nozzle and insert a break-away knife in the slit with the sharp edge upwards. Then use silversolder to seal off the slit from the outside and cut the thread. Gotta use the small break-aways, not the big one.

[@zaviekucer9859]

The blades you mention are too hard to cut a thread in.

[@Bugstoon]

Hello Stefan, you started a nice project :). I am a trained precision mechanic or mechanical engineer. Therefore I would like to give you a hint how you can drill centrically in an external thread. Since you are soldering anyway, you can solder a platoo (e.g. a large pile of solder), then strike it in the middle with a center punch and then drill through it without running to the side. Greeting

[@joshua43214]

The proper way to start a drill is to use a starter drill (never to be confused with a center drill). Starter drills have a 120degree angle, and are very short and fat with usually only 1 or 2 twists. Since your twist drill has a 118debree angle, the drill will center on the point. Center drills (which are also short and fat) have a 60degree angle, and the twist drill will center on the flights and cause it to wobble on starting. Center drills are for make center holes for lathe work, starter drills are for starting twist drills. I really appreciate you doing this. I had a similar idea I was thinking about doing with my Volcano. My experience is that the Volcano can reliably extrude at high quality about 24mm^3/s with a .6mm nozzle. This mirrors your test pretty much perfectly.

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

Try a gold wire, hear me out: no oxide layer = better heat transfer... High thermal mass.

[@dibblethwaite]

But gold has way lower thermal thermal conductivity than copper. Silver wire might be better.

[@NoxmilesDe]

$$$

[@magnuswright5572]

@@dibblethwaite But copper oxidizes, gold doesn't. Copper oxide has a lower thermal conductivity than gold

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

@@dibblethwaite Silver might work better. Only one way to find out, and a great video "gold vs silver" pure click bait!

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

Might also be a good idea to use silver solder in general...

[@engrenage]

@CNC Kitchen : to center your wire better in the nozzle, proceed in two steps: 1. use your drill press to make a hole on one side of the nozzle ; it might not be centered 2. use a hand drill to make the second hole, adjusting by eye so the drill bit is centered. since you will be drilling through the center of the nozzle, centering will be easy. and/or before you make your first hole, use a needle (searching for the french "pointeau" will be easier) to mark where the hole should be. cheers!

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

Aren't patents were invented to publish data, that you can recreate? Not for commercial purposes obviously. If you want to keep a trade secret, don't make a patent. 🤷‍♂️

[@rynnjacobs8601]

The Idea was to get inventors to disclose their inventions, to boost the speed of innovation. In return for disclosing the get a limited period where they can control the use of it. Nowadays the patent system has unfortunately gotten out of hand a lot.

[@frollard]

Might be difficult for the home user - it would be neat to see a star pattern broach used to cut the round bore of the nozzle into a star polygon. Broaching/making blind keyways in machining is one of the biggest pains in the butt - but possibly if using a makergear style hot end it would be possible. (cylindrical hot zone with male threads, female threaded nozzle). Because of the pass through on the heat section broaching would be much easier, and might not infringe the patent because of no connected material in the center.

[@fred-9929]

Great video! I would try to put a piece of thin sheet coper vertically into the nozzle... This would greatly increase the contact surface, without reducing the free cross section.

[@1234fishnet]

Outstanding educational video. Please keep this videos. There are enough people doing printer reviews, but only a few people can do these kinds of videos

[@shogunkosku]

Center cutting flat endmill is what to use to drill accurately especially on round material

[@glabifrons]

I'm fairly certain that patents don't restrict you from making anything for yourself in the US as well. You can even use the drawings in the patents themselves directly. You just can't sell it.

[@protator]

That seems to be case in most countries, but I vaguely remember reading about some restrictions to that principle in the US that could apply to regular Joes building stuff at home. Probably nothing you need to worry about as long as you go about your hobbies quietly without attracting much attention. And even then it's rather unlikely that a company would immediately sue you over a non-commercial thing that doesn't hurt their bottom line.

[@myriadtechrepair1191]

These are the kind of cool, wacky projects I'd normally attribute to DIY Perks. Very nice!

[@chrisdixonstudios]

SPIRAL it: Use drill bit to make hole large as you can. Leave drill bit in it! Snap off, grindstone flat. Extrude thru spirals of drill bit. Hopefully large enough 'holes' for max flow. Definitely a smooth flowing melt zone.

[@timoldguysgaming8432]

Love your approach! When you added the single wire, you realized the need to open the input orifice. But, when you added the second wire, also you made comments about the resistance, yet you didn't try to open it up. I think you missed a great opportunity there. Nonetheless, great work as always, love your videos. Props to 3D Solex for being cool with these experiments.

[@pnwRC.]

AWEWSOME video! I never thought that this DIY modification would have achieved results like it did!

[@JakobDam]

Wow! Thank you - this solves an issue I've had with my 3D printer - the Monoprice Delta Pro, which I've modified with a better extruder and better stepper drivers. I have tested movement and precision to be reliable up to around 300 mm/s (unless the resistance on the nozzle becomes too great; then the magnetic rods don't hold together well). But my limit of 13-15 mm3/s makes it so I can only reliably go up to 80-100 mm/s with 0.4mm nozzle and increased layer width of 0.55mm, which I use for vase mode. Mounting a better hotend would be extremely annoying - because the delta bed would need heavy modification to accomodate it, and the coolers would need to be swapped. But more importantly, the added weight would force me to decrease my speeds, partly defeating the purpose of upgrading said hotend... Your approach totally circumvents this issue. I look forward to testing it!

[@TonyGrant.]

Two ways to improve the placement and fixing of the wire: 1) With the nozzle in the vice, get a sharp, hard object, place it in position and strike it with a small hammer or similar to create a divot which will your drill bit will bind to when you start drilling. For added precision you can start with an even smaller drill to start a pilot hole - only about 0.5 - 1mm depth should do it. 2) Dab a small amount of plumbing flux (used when soldering copper pipe) onto the area you want to solder. The solder will tend to stick at a lower temperature.

[@dietrichkanzler4605]

If you use a small single flute countersink to make a dimple in the nozzle threads it will provide a guide point for the drill bit that follows and will prevent it from wandering as you start drilling.

[@EUSPD]

Try drilling the nozzle at 45 degrees to the axis. This will increase the active surface area of the wire inside the nozzle and probably reduce the friction of the filament.

[@Roskellan]

I have a Qidi X-Plus the MK10 nozzle in the low temp extruder has PTFE tubing extending into the nozzle, replacement nozzles including a ruby nozzle (for abrasive filaments) are configured the same. The high temp steel extruder has a 2mm hole and the TPFE tubing stops there before entering the nozzle. I manufactured S/S inserts which fill the hole down in the regular brass nozzles to a diameter of 2mm. In this way I can use higher temperatures without damaging the TPFE tubing. Now to my point: a hole for a wire could be drilled near the center of the nozzle as in your example, but above and below that wire the S/S insert could be placed (cut in half and inserted). The inserts would also be c/s where they contact the new wire. The only other variation I would make would be to thin (flatten through filing) the wire where it centers in the nozzle to easy the flow while retaining the copper conduction of the wire. Given this technique a larger diameter copper wire could also be employed. The PTFE tube would stop at the top of the nozzle. My experience is that a high degree of accuracy is required, your off center hole illustrating possible problems very well. I would not solder the wire but peen it/ rivet into place, a slight c/s on either side of the nozzle aiding the fit. Then re-cutting thread as you did before (only an M7 thread in this case). My design would leave a nozzle filament hole of around 4mm over the width of the inserted wire easing flow. My stainless inserts by the way are 9mm long, 4mm in diameter and have a 2mm hole right through them, they would be cut in half for this purpose. In these days when every one wants to print faster and faster I think these sorts of experiments are getting ever more relevant.

[@BRUXXUS]

Super fascinating, as always! Also, big respect to 3Dsolex for being okay with allowing you to create and share this video. :)

[@nico4331]

Since adding a perpendicular wire helps with melting but reduces area (ie. flow), and adding another one adds too much turbulence too benefit from the added melting zone, I think it would be worth trying thiner copper wire, or even a thin copper plate inserted in the middle. This would require to saw the nozzle in two (in the melting zone only) with a very fine blade, but hitting the middle plane would be easier with standard tools and the heat exchanging area would be doubled !

[@CrashPCcz]

Wow, nice experiment! Today I tested my Garage Volcano CHT - stepped opening, and box cutter blade divider with some optimisations inside. I could extrude 35mm/s without much limit, on a Ti heatbreak (disadvantage for heating). Got just slightly degraded extrusion rate. What was bigger problem was speed. High extrusion rate at slow speed was okay. Same extrusion rate at high speed was bad.

[@smash5967]

So, some tips for drilling into round parts. First, when possible, mill or file a flat where you plan to put your hole. This could even be as simple as coming in with small center cutting endmill running in your drill press. It's ok if your flat is bigger than your hole, the die is going to clean up the threads well enough. Second, spot your holes with a proper spot drill, or at least at least a center drill. Spot drills are designed specifically for starting a hole without walking. You could also centerpunch a starting spot, but that might be tricky in this case. Finally, for micro drilling, often times a hand held pin vise is going to give you a good hole. You can also get a pin vise that goes into a drill chuck or mounts in the spindle of a drill press.

[@Philip747]

Nice project!! Some tings to try to improve the result: 1) use a nut to keep the nozzle stable in the wise 2) use a centering bit (or milling bit?) to make the initial hole (that should be a smaller diameter than the final hole) 3) use a blowtorch (a small one for baking should be enough) instead of a soldering iron to help heating up the nozzle/melting the solder 4) use a file to shape the wire to reduce flow resistance OR use small pliers to make the wire flatter (but taller) once the wire is in place

[@Incendium87]

This is a really cool idea!! You might get better flow by using a thin piece of flat stock stuck down the throat of the nozzle, across the diameter. This would give a longer melt length while reducing the frontal area of the obstruction added to the nozzle.

[@karlmansson8319]

On centring the holes: place a flat, long object (stiff ruler or ground parallell) on the thread and push down on the ruler with the tip of the drill. When the ruler is level with the drill press table you've found your center. Then you need to create a flat spot on the surface for the drill to stay centered. Drilling into a thread is near impossible without first creating a flat area as there are so many angles influencing the tip of the drill. Use an endmill the same size or slightly larger than the drill you want to use and plunge down until you have a clean circle on the part.

[@jamesdond1]

If you want to drill in the center of the threaded head you need to first use a small center drill. they don't bend and will allow you to drill without the drill walking problem.

[@dontbeje11y]

Shout out to Carl for giving you the go ahead. I will be buying one of his nozzles due to this. That shows a real love for 3d printing and innovation. Good on you Carl!

[@johnsmith-000]

If you plan to research this further, you can make a simple jig for frilling the nozzles, simply drill and tp the M6 internal thread in Aluminum rod, file one side a bit to get the flat, and drill the hole in it. So you can use it every time you want to drill the nozzle. Wind the nozzle to the desired depth and drill throug, and if you want more holes at some angle, probably the right one, mark the hex tip od the nozzle with two or more dots so you can orient it pretty precisely to the needed angle.

[@someguy2741]

I wonder if there are gains if you extend the tip of the nozzle instead of the throat. If the plastic spends more time in the 0.6mm section the polymer may realign before exiting the nozzle.

[@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega]

yeah the 0.6mm/ output hole should be a lot longer.

[@jacobalberty]

Two ways to drill on center on something round. You could thread a flat block of brass to fit the nozzle, then use that as a guide to drill straight. it'll keep the bit from veering off track on the curve. Other option is an end mill, 0.8mm engraving end mills arent too expensive and would probably work ok in your drill press. just use it to make a flat on the threads pull the end mill out and put your drill in. It's drilling on the round that messes you up if you can pull a trick to get a flat first either with a guide or by milling a flat you're good.

[@BitSmythe]

What a brilliant engineer - and teacher. Thanks for *all* your research and videos!

[@B0M0A0K]

Outstanding analysis, it was a pleasure to watch. Very well filmed, excellent descriptive commentary, well done Stefan!

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Ted007-r5r]

To get the cross holes centered on the nozzle diameter , first mill a flat in the thread, use a center drill to spot the hole location, then drill the the hole thru. If the curvature of the id of the nozzle causes the drill to wander drill 4 holes 1/2 way thru from each side using the above method. Please keep up the great videos.

[@zero_gravity5861]

what if you filed down flats on the sides of the wire in the middle, creating more of a fin rather than a round wire? keeping the ends round would mean the soldering would still conserve the threads.

[@PupuTheMonkey]

It's probably been said, but you have a few options to prevent the drill bit from flexing or "walking" on the surface of the part. You can spot face the area to be drilled, which is basically just using a flat-bottom center-cutting endmill or drill to create a small flat that can easily be drilled into. Your next common option is to use a spot drill, which is nothing more than a short and fat (i.e. rigid) drill bit that will not flex to create a small countersink that your 0.8mm will then center itself in to prevent walking. Your third option is to use a much shorter 0.8mm drill, but this is generally going to be a custom drill bit and not an option if you are using standard catalog items. In general, your common (inexpensive) bits are HSS (high speed steel) and flex quite a bit. This can be good in that they don't break easily, but their flexibility can allow for holes that "wander" or aren't truly straight. Carbide bits are substantially more expensive but are more rigid, but they also snap off easily when they do flex. Of all these options, I would use a spot drill (a center drill is similar and can be used as well) to make a small dimple, then swap to the 0.8mm, as this uses commonly available tools that aren't too expensive. I sometimes put a new edge on broken drill bits, because they can be useful when a shorter stiffer bit is needed in applications such as this. Just remember your hole depth will be limited by your flute length if you ever use such a bit.

[@christruebe]

One thought I had on your drilling issue is to only drill one side, then flip and drill the opposite side. It looked like the nozzle lined up well with your vice. To ensure that the height was the same (no slight offset) you could place a block or something behind the nozzle to have the exact "height" each time. This was well done!

[@squidcaps4308]

Hmm... i wonder if one could cut razor blade with a laser to exact tolerance to fit inside a nozzle and have it be there with friction fit alone.. well, not really friction fit since i would assume the slice of the razor would have to be just slightly too large so you it pushes into the brass. But how to insert it there.... I'm sure small flat needlenose pliers could get it far enough and you could maybe hammer it in the rest of the way.. Or even machine a cut thru the nozzle for it and solder it with silver (not silver tin, but silver).

[@invent5540]

My suggestion is to drill a hole into the top face parallel to the flow direction. Next cut a piece of copper wire bent into a "U" shape with one end soldered into this hole with the opposite end within-and-parallel-to the flow zone. Before doing this we pre drilling the bore to maximize restriction vs. annular flow distance. The correct balance will fall somewhere within this ratio of conductivity vs. restriction. Bonus: This is a simple drilling operation with no thread damage. Bonus2: The "U" shaped copper wire can extend higher into the hot zone to increase copper heat transfer from the hot plastic as well larger copper can be experimented again through experimentation.

[@andrewbeaton3302]

Who said that circles have the best flow characteristics? It's more about creating MORE SURFACE areas to pool up plastic to have slightly FASTER RESULTS in this use case! Circle shapes are less efficient in thermal dissipation and speed than we previously knew. THE FRICTION OF LIQUID HITTING A WALL IS MORE THAN IT IS IN THE CENTER OF THE FLOW. if WE CAN MAKIE OVAL NOZZLES WE'D GET EVEN MORE! The friction of the plastic or liquid in a circle is more than an oval type or other shapes! TRY USING DOUBLE THE SURFACE AREA AND THEN USE A NON CIRCLE SHAPE THAT ALLOWS MORE FLOW WITH LESS FRICTION. GREAT VIDEO!

[@claudehebert3131]

To drill the perpendicular holes into the nozzle, make yourself a drilling jig: - Take a small steel cube, a tad larger than the nozzle thread (eg 18mm cubed). Should ideally be milled square. - use marking blue on 3 adjacent faces. - Mark the piece on the 3 sides, ideally using a vertical vernier, so the lines are parallel on 2 faces, and the remaining face connects both lines with an X. - use a center punch to mark the placement of the holes; one at the center of the X, 2 others at whatever offset from the face as you see fit. - Drill a 5.2mm hole through it on the side with the X. - Ideally countersink it. - Drill your smaller holes on the 2 other faces. - Tap the large hole using a 6X1 tap. your jig is done. - now insert a nozzle in the threaded hole, bring the drill press with the proper drill, drill both holes, remove the nozzle and repeat as many times as you wish.

[@zeekjones1]

If you make a block(could even be printed) with the 8mm hole centered on the side, and a threaded hole for the nozzle, you can make a guide for the drill bit to stay straight. _I wonder if you make the wire go through much lower, if you could connect electrodes and heat the wire inside the nozzle directly._

[@peteroleary9447]

Brilliant! When starting a small hole on an irregular surface, we usually use a center drill (sometimes called a combination countersink-drill) , then drill the hole with a standard drill bit. For a 0.08 mm hole in brass, a speed of at least 2500 RPM is best. Always good to have a rigid setup and smooth running spindle. +1 for using an Albrecht chuck.

[@thorntontarr2894]

Your experiments are sound and very clearly demonstrated. Your test pattern you used to demonstrate performance is exemplary.

[@soaringbob]

Starting your drill hole with a center drill has been mentioned, but you can achieve similar results with a very stubby drill bit. If you know how to sharpen a drill bit, just grind off most of the twist, leaving one twist to resharpen. This will make for a very short but stiff bit that, if chucked up with little protruding from your drill chuck, will be almost as ridged as a center drill. Go very slow to start, and it should act more like a small end mill, meaning you would not have to worry about aligning with the "V" of a thread. You can also try to just choke up on a full length drill bit, leaving only a centimeter or less sticking out of the drill chuck. If you can get it to run true, there you go!

[@maaboo7379]

My thought was the same but with some difference. Design is obvious, glad to see you saw it too. Unfortunately, I'm too busy to check my ideas, but when I make them in metal, I'll let you know.

[@dollarbill93]

I read the comments and most addressed the same ideas i was thinking. I would also be interested in seeing a custom nozzle with far more thermal mass and small plate of copper instead of a bar. These are really interesting videos. Well done

[@smitcher]

To avoid the drill wandering, don't have so much of the drill bit exposed, only enough to make a small indent in the top. Then loosen the chuck and let out some more drill bit and repeat. Do that a few times making the drill bit only a mm longer each time. Once you are through the top wall then you can just make the drill bit long enough to go all the way through... You do need to ensure that the nozzle is perfectly centred first though as well... use a feeler gauge or other methods to get that perfect before drilling...

[@LostInTech3D]

It's nice that the patent holder was willing to talk to you, a win win really for both sides.

[@TS34675]

I feel like extrude honing a nozzle with properly sized micro-abrasives would be prefect for this. Maybe you can use something off the shelf like plastic-x, and pump that through at a rate fast enough to give the same effect but cheaper? Extrude honing works wonders on intake manifolds to clearance and smooth out airflow in areas you could never reach with tools. Another thought, you may be able to bore out the inside of a nozzle but retain the tip diameter, then create a brass/copper insert that will drop into the larger opening and could be soldered into place. This too then can be extrude honed to perfection for maximum flow.

[@raulduke7142]

Dremel the wire that will sit inside the nozzle, before soldering it in place. Make them thinner and come to a sharp edge so the sharp edge is facing the filament. I imagine doing this would eliminate the need to drill nozzle and make it perform very close to the winner, if not exceed its performance.

[@wacekjalczak2134]

If you want to drill straight inexpensively and quickly, use a for predrill a shorter drill (can be cut if you can't insert it deep enough in chuck)

[@bluedeath996]

If you use a shorter drill bit and have the least of it exposed from the chuck possible you will significantly increase the stiffness. It would also help to use a centre drill to start the hole, use an endmill to provide a flat to start, or both. Silver solder is pretty easy to use and has a higher melting point you just need a little liquid flux and a blowtorch.