My High Flow Nozzle is better than a Volcano hotend!

[@CNCKitchen]

Use the code *CNCKitchen* to get Curiosity Stream for only $14.99 a year! curiositystream.com/CNCKitchen DIY or buy a high flow extrusion system? What's your take?

[@Rayan-Singh]

You could actually patent this yoursel

[@zid_just_zid]

Very interesting, i wonder what difference it would make if you had the wires poking about a third into the melt zone from each hole on an unenlarged chamber x wire version, it would be a bit more fiddly to make but since most of the space is still open it might impede/affect the flow less while still give more surface area for heat transfer.

[@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart]

Would induction heating help keeping the insides of the nozzle warm?

[@TheOrganicartist]

Hi CNC, What about using a copper or brass insert? like a triangle where the mid-points of the 3 sides are folded to connect at the center? it might result in a more symmetrical splitting and recombination of the filament

[@andreasvogler1875]

Maybe you could make a vertical cut through the thread, insert a piece of copper sheet metal and braze it in place. It would have more surface than a piece of wire.

[@ChristianLonneker]

If you screw the nozzle inside a M6 nut you have a flat face on the nut where you can start drilling. Very interested video and results!

[@marc_frank]

that's a nice idea!

[@nilsirrah7672]

Smart !

[@nukularpictures]

Id use an old heater block but a nut is also a good idea.

[@ralfr321]

Predrilling the nut should make the process really simple.

[@Sekir80]

@@ralfr321 And that's called a jig. I was thinking it would be a great idea, but making it from a simple nut is a brilliant idea!

[@EricMBlog]

Big thumbs up to 3D Solex/Carl for being all for this video. Some companies get way too uptight about these sorts of things!

[@DarkAlaranth]

I'm actually MORE interested in getting a CHT nozzle now.... (Don't wanna play with drills etc, as I don't have the equipment. :) )

[@CNCKitchen]

Definitely! I'm sure he doesn't want to harm the industry with his patent. He just needed to make sure that he sees a return on investment for his idea and development.

[@MrConcord75]

@@DarkAlaranth yup! This is actually great advertising for the CHT nozzle. They are now on my list for possible upgrades.

[@pappaflammyboi5799]

Patents are logically inconsistent moral imperatives.

[@Rippthrough]

@@CNCKitchen To be honest I bought some CHT's just from the back of your tests, they're impressive, I'm flowing 50% more than even my copper V6's can do in the same space envelope, with flexibles too, which I thought would be more of an issue (although I'm having some retraction tuning trouble). So I don't think he can complain too much at you DIYing some ;)

[@adayco]

A couple of nuts on the threads to lock the position, a dimple on the flat of the nut, and a center drill bit. If you have a watchmaker near by, this would be easy…if they find interest. :-)

[@CNCKitchen]

Good point!

[@nefariousyawn]

Most of the comments say to mill a flat spot, but this technique is clever for not requiring the threads to be destroyed.

[@TDOBrandano]

And the nut can also be re-used as a guide if the hole came out properly centered. You could also just create a guide nut by applying the same technique to a plain M6 bolt before sacrificing nozzles

[@wolfwind9658]

I forgot about the nut trick.

[@taliamon]

I completely forgot about the nut trick. Thanks for the reminder.

[@Tarex_]

Why not file the wire to a sharp line on the top? The 3d solex has very sharp edges that help shear the filament instead of forcing it against a blunt edge like the wires rounded profile

[@danieljenkins4213]

This is what I came to say, but leave the ends round for easier soldering

[@Tarex_]

@@danieljenkins4213 Exactly, would even plug it by pressing the ends like a rivet, so the temperature limitation of the solder is removed

[@cooperised]

@@Tarex_ Peening probably won't make as good a thermal joint as soldering, and peening the second end so that the first remains tight is also tricky. I reckon silver solder is probably the best way, especially because we're not talking about mass production.

[@Tarex_]

@@cooperised agreed, aluminum brazing rods are also an option

[@Mr_Yod]

That's what I was going to say: file the the wire to a triangular shape with the point facing up. =)

[@delsydsoftware]

It would be fun to see the same modification made to a volcano nozzle, to see if there was any positive or negative gain in performance.

[@Leclaron]

I was just about to say the same thing! I have a few spare nozzles for my volcano clone so I might just give it a try myself.

[@TommiHonkonen]

super volcano with cht tho

[@beetrix12]

YEAH supervcano! Hereby named 'reverse porcupine'

[@testboga5991]

It should work. But cht nozzle in volcano won't be as good.

[@thatbee4923]

watch the whole video ;)

[@MihaiDesigns]

🤯 why didn't I think of this!? Impressive results really, I wouldn't have imagined it. Can't wait to see the results for a modified Volcano nozzle.

[@smittery]

So i watched this video a couple days ago and I've been thinking about it a lot, primarily things like improving flow in mid-high flow applications. Volcanos, big build volume stuff. It just hit me that something like this might also dramatically improve the speed at which you can run 0.2-0.3 nozzles, which is the biggest reason I don't use them. Also, it might help other flow challenged nozzles such as ruby nozzles.

[@LeftJoystick]

It’s all fun and games until your Urologist breaks out the copper wire, some solder, and a threading die.

[@taliamon]

To prevent the wandering, you need to pre-drill with a center drill. Essentially, it's a very wide shaft with a very narrow, and more importantly short bit. It's specifically designed to prevent drill walking during the formal drilling process by giving the twistie a place to start. Are you using an edge finder to locate as well? This assumes you have a digital readout on your mill, but it's still doable if all you have is gauges on the spindles.

[@quelixfenzer5108]

you can also center it with a feelergauge and a pin or end mill shank in the chuck. just bring your pin closer till you feel slight resistance with the feelergauge between the part and the pin and then move the tool up and over by the radius of the pin + the radius of the screw + the thickness of the gauge and you will be on center.

[@collinbardini]

Also, drilling in a round surface can be tricky. Maybe if a nut where threaded on and super glued in place, you could use that as a flat spot to spot drill. The nut could then be used as a tool when making more hot ends.

[@maxhammick948]

You could also mill a flat onto the threads to give a nicer surface to stick a drill bit into. It would give you an easy surface to cut off excess wire & solder, although with a thread die it's already pretty easy

[@GigsVT]

for these little sizes pcb drills may work. carbide though so brittle, but stubby

[@arthurmorgan8966]

What about printing a jig that will hold the bit in place just long enough so it can drill the opening part, like half mm?

[@GregorShapiro]

Talk to Stefan Gotteswinter and ask him to make you some custom nozzles! I'm sure that a collaboration would be very interesting for you.

[@ralfr321]

This old Tony would be another candidate.

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

What about instead of inserting wires, we cut a longitudinal slot in the nozzle and insert a thin copper plate, like a splitter. Maybe more efficient and definitely easier to do.

[@nilsirrah7672]

First he gotta mill that shape. Which might not be easy

[@GerManBearPig]

@@nilsirrah7672 you could just cut the flat (top) side of the nozzle with a dremel

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

@@nilsirrah7672 Why complicate stuff and start milling, when there's a simple angle grinder or a dremel. 😃

[@champifun2]

Or perhaps file the copper wire before inserting it, so that the wire looks more like a sharp blade ?

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

@@champifun2 But the plate can be longer or shorter, so we have more parameters to play with. Basically cheaply replicating the production one.

[@TheAuxLux]

You've inserted wire perpendicular to the wall sides, but what if you would put it in angle? This might help with the flow and surface area. Anyways, briliant idea for video :)

[@aimlessweasel]

I was thinking the same thing. It would be more difficult to drill though. You might be able to get some angle by machining a nut first, as others have suggested for centering.

[@novaenricarter705]

@@aimlessweasel I would make a small jig for it. Could probably use a corner bracket and bend it to the angle you wish, then just fasten the nozzle to the jig in anyways you want and drill it with a drill press.

[@fatihkagan6706]

It would require a specialized tool/drill to make an angled bore. But it would definitely help I think

[@tedgaunt3044]

This is exactly what is diagrammed in the patent pictures that Stephan showed in the video. Good idea.

[@lovecastle7154]

@@novaenricarter705 you drill the whole and tap the thread last

[@Jericho951]

Hi Stefan. Could you possibly try to file the wire into triangle shape before inserting it into nozzle? That might help with flow restriction.

[@Shreyam_io]

i was about to comment that....

[@ameliabuns4058]

oooh smort!

[@naasking]

Filing would reduce cross sectional area, and since heat flux is proportional to that area you'd reduce the heat transfer to the filament. Copper wire is soft though, so maybe hammer it into a different shape? Might still reduce area but not as much.

[@davidmalawey]

Even with an MS in mechanical engineering and several years of 3d printing experience and cross training in metal 3d printing, you're unveiling insights that I didn't know about. These insights are very accurate and very well communicated. I mean you're saying stuff that's worthy of peer-reviewed literature and making it digestible for average hobbyists. Good communication in engineers is gold. You earn the gold my friend. Awesome work.

[@Rippthrough]

I used to make my own by just pressing a torx bit into the back of a nozzle so it deformed it into the filament and gave much more surface area.

[@GerManBearPig]

How do you keep the threading on the outside from deforming?

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@GerManBearPig by holding the hex part i guess, and putting a nut in the outside...

[@butsukete1806]

@@GerManBearPig You could either put a nut around it before pressing, or recut the threads after.

[@Rippthrough]

@@GerManBearPig Put a steel nut on it.

[@hdragoon1710]

@@Rippthrough Do you leave a small piece of the torx bit inside the nozzle or just deform the nozzle back?

[@techdiyer5290]

2:20 Use an endmill to start the hole, or use a center drill and then the actual drill. The center drill is a drill but much smaller and is very stiff, so it doesn't wander, its used to start holes, sort of like a center punch

[@TheTrex600ESP]

Always use center drill for accurate holes. And using an endmill to make flat is also a good thing. But in this case is enough with center drill :)

[@bandana_girl6507]

I'd probably also go through a thread peak on the front side so that the back side will exit in a trough. That SHOULD improve the end result if memory serves correct

[@williamchamberlain2263]

Grind/mill the threads off and make a flat area to drill through. Tidy the cut threads up to remove burrs.

[@pugglez4798]

I think you should try to make this nozzle again but have the rod that is going through closer to the bottom. Since it's around the top, the filament would have had very little time to melt at that point, so it is trying to push around that rod when it's relatively cold. However, if the rod was at the bottom, it would have already heated up mostly, so it could flow around the rod easier because it is less viscous. I think this could substantially decrease the resistance, hence increasing the flow.

[@RandomInside]

Very good and logical idea ....

[@sirseriously]

I think the point is that the copper conducts heat better from the heat block. Lower and it would become a heat sink instead.

[@JamieHarveyJr]

Kudos to 3Dsolex for being OK with you exploring this publicly! I had no idea about their product but now it’s on my radar and like the concept of the design 👍🏻

[@testboga5991]

@@soundspark How about they sell their stuff and don't bother hobbyists? If Apple had patented a hole with some stuff in it, people would be outraged. The intellectual effort in their patent is a joke and the idea that increased surface area in a nozzle equals better heat transfer is as old as printers are.

[@JamieHarveyJr]

In the end, I purchased a CHT nozzle from Bondtech, so 3Dsolex still wins lol. Definitely helped me push more volume through my system with a very easy mod.

[@PiDsPagePrototypes]

@@JamieHarveyJr Same here, hadn't heard of them, now looking to be a customer.

[@DanteYewToob]

I literally bought a 3D printer because of you, I was robbed and lost a lot of stuff including my 3D printer and I still watch these videos because they’re so good. So before I had a printer, and after I no longer have one… I still enjoy these videos because your enthusiasm and knowledge is fun and interesting to watch. Hopefully I’ll be financially stable enough to get another printer sometime soon, and then I’ll hav an actual reason to watch these videos! Haha (I had an Ender 3 pro for about a month before I was robbed and lost it. I lost most of my belongings, but the 3D printer stung differently because I literally JUST got it.. aside from my sentimental stuff like the computer and old phones with all of the pictures of my recently dead dog, the printer bugged me the most. P.s. that’s my pup in my photo. His name was Buster and he was the best boy ever.)

[@macrumpton]

Who steals a 3d printer? It is hard to imagine a less convenient thing to try and discretely unload.

[@HighVoltageMadness]

Sorry for your loss. I feel bad that they took you stuff. But seriously who the hell would through the effort to steal an inexpensive printer. Just wow.

[@SianaGearz]

@@HighVoltageMadness Usually a disgruntled family member or a partner, motive is not financial gain, but to cause as much damage as possible.

[@milkhbox]

I'm so sorry for yor loss of your buddy and your things. I can somewhat empathize; our house burned a few months ago, so we ended up losing a cat and all of our belongings.

[@DanteYewToob]

@@SianaGearz Something like that. I was in the process of moving and my house was sold to a corrupt slumlord basically. He randomly showed up with off duty cops and told us we had 24hrs which is illegal, we called our lawyer and got papers telling him to fuck off and it it didn’t matter because the cops were idiots. They said “Oh well, you can let the court decide it” and escorted us out of the house. Within 6 days we were let back into the house and given full time until the end of our lease which was still 2 months to move out but by then the scum bags ransacked the place, and stole everything. Most of everything was already packed and so they stole everything valuable and unpacked and dumped everything else and went through it all stealing everything. I’m currently in a lawsuit with the owner, the police department because of sheer negligence in allowing off duty cops to use police uniforms and vehicles to bully us out of our home. We basically have a rock solid case. Turned out the owner was rushing us out because he is committing bankruptcy fraud on the house and his paperwork said that he lived there since he bought it, which is untrue because obviously I lived there. It’s something he does with a group of people, they buy houses and then file for bankruptcy on it and then.. idk.. it’s fraudulent conveyance or something like that. Apparently they do it because my house (although kind of a shithole but not too bad) is currently worth like 13k… that’s what the bank is selling it for. So his partners step in a buy the house for that much, fix it up and sell it for a huge profit. It’s a serious crime. So basically what happened was, he tried throwing us out, our lawyers very quickly discovered what he was doing and he panicked and showed up with cops to throw us out. He basically trashed our stuff and told his people to steal everything and fuck with us because we exposed him. He knew we would be let right back into the house but wanted to ruin us. My mother and I ate it, and continued going after the scumbag and found out that he’s done this to a bunch of other people. So don’t worry, he’s fucked. So yeah… it was a fucked up situation, and we had a really difficult time finding a place to move into but I’m settled and good now.

[@christopherrobin8134]

File down the wire into a shape approximating a blade. You’d get the internal heating zone, and the flow resistance would decrease due to a decreased flow area reduction.

[@jean-baptistevioix7250]

One solution to drill is using a nut and drill the nut and the nozzle at one time. It's to find the center of the nut because it's a rectangle (or square).

[@RFi731]

this sounds brilliant.

[@jean-baptistevioix7250]

It's *easy* to find the center of the nut

[@salesjunkie8309]

This☝

[@TS34675]

I feel like extrude honing a nozzle with properly sized micro-abrasives would be prefect for this. Maybe you can use something off the shelf like plastic-x, and pump that through at a rate fast enough to give the same effect but cheaper? Extrude honing works wonders on intake manifolds to clearance and smooth out airflow in areas you could never reach with tools. Another thought, you may be able to bore out the inside of a nozzle but retain the tip diameter, then create a brass/copper insert that will drop into the larger opening and could be soldered into place. This too then can be extrude honed to perfection for maximum flow.

[@rush1041]

Was considering buying a volcano hotend! Now I have to watch this haha.

[@REDxFROG]

No.. Get the CHT nozzle.

[@Petro_Bandera]

For me the Volacno it's still the option. Too much effort with this.

[@REDxFROG]

@@Petro_Bandera CHT has zero effort.. volcano has high effort and changes dimensions.

[@RFi731]

volcano might be a better option for abrasive filaments.

[@АлексейДмитриев-ш1ф]

@Rush buy a volcano and one CHT nozzle. Cut off the nozzle part of CHT and keep only the thread. Screw it into the heat block and then use standard V6 nozzles. So you get CHT splitter, increased length of volcano and cheap V6 nozzles

[@Amatronix999]

Pehaps you could flatten the copper wire so the thin edge runs vertical ,giving easier flow but still same surface contact.

[@nobodynoone2500]

Use a punch, or tiny diameter drill to start the hole. If it still slips, you will have to center the hole between threads.

[@Donnerwamp]

This should be explored way more than just putting one or more wires with varying diameter in the filament path! Some ideas I'd like to see tested: - different angles - adding two rows of wires in an alternating pattern on the left and on the right side (this seems to be a case where a Volcano/Supervolcano nozzle may be necessary) - combining different diameter wires - shaping the wires before inserting (like triangular, notches or maybe bending the wire) - using "spikes"/cut wire pieces instead of full width wires - using different wire materials - using a (maybe sharpened) sheet of metal instead of wire (may be difficult to build)

[@Makatea]

Only silver has a marginally higher heat conductivity than copper (less than 10 % more). Brass on the other hand, conducts heat a lot less well. Building a prototype heaterblock and nozzle out of gold- or rhodium-plated copper or silver (to prevent surface-oxidation) should yield astonishingly great results. A triangular shape of the wire with the sharp side up should also perform better, both because of better "cutting"-perfornance and a bigger surface-area after that. For an equal wire diameter, that should provide an improved performance. There's probably an optimum wire diameter compromise between more heat put into the plastic while keeping a sufficiently large channel open as not to reduce the flow-rate. If there is a snug enough fit between the hole and the wire, eventually helped by some slight taps with a center punch, there should be no need for soldering at all. Your last idea might be pretty easy to do by sawing a slit into the threaded part of the nozzle, then solder in a copper plate.

[@Donnerwamp]

@@Makatea By changing the material I was thinking less about improving heat conductivity but more about surface structure and longevity, especially with stuff like carbon fiber filament. But how much would it help? Or is there a sweet spot between surface area and shapes that restrict flow? That's something you could test with different shapes. I think soldering is necessary as you need to get the wire in and maybe hace different expansion rates at higher temperatures when using diferent metals. Hm, I feel kinda stupid because I didn't think of that. I was in full machining mode and thought about killing a slit into the nozzle... Yeah, much easier that way. I've had another idea just now, when using a metal plate as divider, how about adding a little spin tocthe filament? I'm not sure what this may achieve besides better mixing when pushing two colora through one nozzle, but maybe this distributes the heat more evenly in the filament or something.

[@racvv]

@@Makatea maybe with a cutter blade! It may enlarge the area while keeping a bigger area

[@CommanderJPS]

@@Makatea i thought that about the last paragraph, slot from the top and then solder the gap afterwards to re-seal the entrance pathway Edit: Stanley blade cut down and shaped? If conducting the heat into the stainless steel will be a problem then i wonder is it would be possible to copper plate it?

[@CommonApathy]

Feel like thinner wire give a higher chance of the wire failing.

[@kittygoboom1155]

v3 of the diy nozzle - use a small file(like REALLY SMALL) to "sharpen" the 2.0mm section of the wire inside. perhaps this would remove some turbulance? Either way very informative as always. Please never stop making videos!

[@marsgizmo]

This is pretty interesting!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks Adrian! Looking for some nice, high extrusion width prints from you. The 2 mm 3DSolex might be great for that even on a Prusa.

[@marsgizmo]

@@CNCKitchen that’s a great idea! I was thinking to do something like that, thanks for the hint 😉

[@Rychlas]

@@CNCKitchen How about cutting the nozzle along its longer axis, and putting a piece of copper sheet in the cut? < || > < || > < > ..\_/ || - cut with a copper sheet inside PS: You can also file the edges in the middle of the sheet that'll be inside the nozzle, to make it sharper to even further ease the flow. I believe it could be relatively easy to do. Make a vertical (along the axis of rotation) cut on a bandsaw or with a careful cut with a handsaw. Cut a piece of copper plate to be slightly wider than the nozzle. Drill a bit wider hole the length of the copper plate (or skip this part if the flowrate is enough to reduce die swell). Insert the plate, solder it. If you don't want to solder, you could try to heat up the nozzle from its tip to expand it and put the plate in the freezer, then try to hammer it down the hole, but you'd have to work on the tolerances quite a bit for this to work (you'd have to be careful not to pry the nozzle open, too). You could also just tig weld it. Then the only thing left to do is to thread it and to file the upper parts of the plate to fit the shape of the nozzle's chamfer.

[@jpdthe3rd]

Try sharpening the wire to a teardrop shape to cut down on flow resistance. Place the sharp side up toward the incoming filament. Also try drilling the entire tip out to the larger diameter before inserting the wires. I imagine having 4 pie shaped heating areas and more volume in the tip could get you there. I'd be interested to see the above mentioned modifications or a volcano aswell

[@goury]

Also an engineering advice: after drilling an offcenter hole through one side, rotate your thing 180° and drill another one from the opposite side. You'll have to bend the wire a bit, but it will be precisely centered.

[@GoingtoHecq]

I think part of his problem is that the drill bit is grabbing onto the threads. Seeing as this is a single thread it would not have the same results on the other side.

[@Valery_1954]

@@GoingtoHecq , надфилем сделать ровную площадку, потом сверлить.

[@Mr.Titanium1911]

The off center hole could have been avoided if he centered it properly and then started with a center drill.

[@AleksandrEfimov]

Maybe it will make sense to insert a thin flat piece of metal instead of a wire. You can make small guides in the nozzle walls for it, and it may not even require soldering...

[@radoslavrimsa3613]

Aren't patents were invented to publish data, that you can recreate? Not for commercial purposes obviously. If you want to keep a trade secret, don't make a patent. 🤷‍♂️

[@rynnjacobs8601]

The Idea was to get inventors to disclose their inventions, to boost the speed of innovation. In return for disclosing the get a limited period where they can control the use of it. Nowadays the patent system has unfortunately gotten out of hand a lot.

[@GL-kx2jb]

I would like to see you do this but use copper sheet, then use a cut off wheel to make a slot in the nozzle, also sharpen the edge, it'll cut and transfer heat to the filament like a hot knife in butter!

[@Sylvan_dB]

For higher temperature use, perhaps staking the wire in place instead of soldering it would suffice. Simply use a fine point punch to deform the wire and the hole, trim, and clean the threads. Also using the fine point punch to center punch the hole location before drilling may reduce bit wander, as will reducing the bit length protruding from the chuck. Or use a center drill.

[@zoltanmeszaros8001]

I tried it yesterday, no success. Also I think the temprature game will have it detach from each other due to the shrinking and expanding. Did you manage to have some success?

[@dano5143]

Die Verbesserung bei Volcano Düsen wäre super interessant; aber bitte dann auch eine vernickelte Kupferdüse im Vergleich testen; ob diese nicht noch besser abschneidet. DANKE

[@KarrMcDebt]

Hmm, I'm thinking a vertical notch on each side just big enough for a piece of razor blade from a disposable razor to slide into. No soldering needed if it fits tight, should still increase heat transfer, and would cause less resistance.

[@JoshuaNicoll]

If you have any centre drills for the lathe, I'd recommend those to spot a drill centre, or use a very sharp engrave V bit to just leave a centre mark, I use carbide 15° ones but they're not really meant for that kind of work

[@carbide1968]

You must find center with a edge finder or spinning a indicator. Then you MUST. Use a micro center drill you start your drill off straight. Done like that and you'll be with a few thousands of center and straight. Love what your doing over there and wish i could show you hands on proper machining but you will get it.

[@anoirbentanfous]

Try to make the wire sharper on the middle section before inserting it into the wholes… or maybe try to use pliers and flatten it inside the whole this will increase the surface area, make the filament entry whole bigger, so it will flow better and smoother… or maybe via a Dremel (but this will remove material which isn’t a good idea)

[@cartermaneki]

Great video as always, Stefan! As a mechanical engineer, I always appreciate your analytical data and applications to material science. Interesting results!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thank you very much!

[@newgreen956]

I wonder if there would be a diffence in performance in the wire is inserted further down the nozzel. The more melted plastic might have an easier time going around the obstacle.

[@AdityaMehendale]

Refreshing to see that even after so many years of diy-3dp, the innovations still seek to push the boundaries. :)

[@AdityaMehendale]

Oh, yeah - and drill from two sides (after flattening) for better centering

[@SianaGearz]

Röhrenlot is nothing special... it's Sn97Cu3 right? This is non eutectic but it starts melting at the same temperature as Sn99 and Sn100, it just doesn't become fully liquid until higher up, but it will still have no holding strength at higher printing temperatures whatsoever just the same. There's kind of little point to it.

[@AdityaMehendale]

@@SianaGearz Huh, indeed, I am wrong/ you are correct. I meant SnAg alloy, but that too has a low-ish melting point. I assumed from my subjective observation (soldering-iron vs. propane torch) that the latter reached a much higher temperature, but this is not the case! Thanks for this remark :)

[@Luptonium]

With patented items in the US you can make them yourself for personal noncommercial use you just can't sell them.

[@calvinrohanraj8511]

Try using thinner wires. They will provide lesser resistance and you can put many of them in one nozzle

[@PelleWessman]

Was thinking the same, would be very interesting to see a test of different wire sizes + as some have suggested: thin plates, as I guess a too thin of a wire will split well but not heat well + maybe deform under huge pressures.

[@stevenwoodbury4227]

I would check out Applied science's video drill through anything (conductive) with electrical discharge machining. Don't know how doable it would be for you but it seems like it could make more precise holes then a vice and drill press.

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

Try a gold wire, hear me out: no oxide layer = better heat transfer... High thermal mass.

[@dibblethwaite]

But gold has way lower thermal thermal conductivity than copper. Silver wire might be better.

[@NoxmilesDe]

$$$

[@magnuswright5572]

@@dibblethwaite But copper oxidizes, gold doesn't. Copper oxide has a lower thermal conductivity than gold

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

@@dibblethwaite Silver might work better. Only one way to find out, and a great video "gold vs silver" pure click bait!

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

Might also be a good idea to use silver solder in general...

[@mikeontwitie]

Here is a thought: saw/file a slit vertically into the nozzle and insert a break-away knife in the slit with the sharp edge upwards. Then use silversolder to seal off the slit from the outside and cut the thread. Gotta use the small break-aways, not the big one.

[@zaviekucer9859]

The blades you mention are too hard to cut a thread in.

[@goury]

An idea (patent is pending): put a glass-coated nichrome wire to heat the material from inside. Should be possible to melt a couple of cubic centimeters of material per second easily. To make the whole endeavor easier, use 3mm system. To easily coat the wire, just dip it in some electrically non-conductive epoxy.

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 sadly, It needs coating if you want to have any meaningful amount of it.

[@RFi731]

i don't think it would last long even i have doubts in the copper wire..

[@goury]

@@RFi731 why wouldn't it?

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 because this is how electricity works in our universe

[@goury]

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 plastic may not be conductive (yet some are), but the nozzle and the wire itself still are.

[@mirag3304]

I would imagine that using a smaller wire diameter would create less turbulence and back resistance. The question becomes how thin can it be and still stand up to the heat and pressure of the extrusion.

[@devilwhale]

Notch the back of the nozzle for a solderless joint. Square the ends of the wire, then you can try multiple inserts with different cross section shapes, thicknesses.

[@TheCaphits]

The solder is important for heat transfer.

[@andrewtinker7537]

Planning on trying this out in the near future. One question: wouldn't it be easier to cut a slot in the back of the nozzle and put in a small piece of copper sheet? It's really hard to drill a perfectly centered hole in an uneven surface like a thread, but you should be able to hacksaw a slot that's perfectly centered. You could even use a file to taper the edges for decreased turbulence.

[@richdobbs6595]

It seems like it would be possible to deform the wire inside of the nozzle to increase surface area while reducing flow resistance. Alternatively, with Silver solder, it might be possible add a few fins that break up the flow without closing off the flow through the center.

[@CarbonKevin]

Make a drill guide from a mild steel nut that matches the threadform of the nozzle, then thread in the nozzle and drill through the guide!

[@Marko-fj6jw]

Hello Stephan, I have to tell you that you are doing an incredibly good job. I enjoy and appreciate your channel and learn every time! Please just keep up the good work!

[@justanotherfpv]

If you file the wire flat this may correct the flow issue

[@technosworld2]

This actually increases my interest in the CHT seeing other implementations of a similar idea work really well

[@tonytober]

Hey Stefan, why all this hassle... Machine your own copper nozzle and test again? 😂 (Imagine a copper nozzle with the copper wire bridge... will it blend - that is the question)

[@GoingtoHecq]

I think that you could have also tried putting the second wire in the same direction as the first wire. Also, a machinist could use a slot cutter to cut a slot in the nozzle, and add a thin plate of brass. Perhaps you could do it similarly using a hack saw.

[@Buciasda33]

Amazing video. 1. Get thinner Copper wire. 2. You have to use Micro Drill Bits and a Small Mill, I have a Proxxon, but they are expensive. 3. File down the Wire into a triangle before inserting it and try to make the base of the triangle as thin as possible. 4. Use Silver Solder, or something that can withstand at least 250°C so you can print ABS. 5. I think 2 copper wires is best, but you have to get them very close together.

[@Bugstoon]

Hello Stefan, you started a nice project :). I am a trained precision mechanic or mechanical engineer. Therefore I would like to give you a hint how you can drill centrically in an external thread. Since you are soldering anyway, you can solder a platoo (e.g. a large pile of solder), then strike it in the middle with a center punch and then drill through it without running to the side. Greeting

[@davidkinch2100]

Love seeing the experiments, however at the same time I think making it would involve me messing up a few first and at that point maybe it would just be cheaper to by the real deal. But experimenting and gaining knowledge is priceless right? Maybe 🤔

[@scarehorror98]

Hey Stefan! I absolutely LOVE your videos and I can tell you come from an academic background with how you present your data. I had a request, could you show error bars and sample amount (N = #) in future publications? I think it goes a long way in critically assessing the data you're spending so much time collecting. I'm fully aware that variance in the data will be quite high and lowering it would require an exponential amount of extra effort, but I still think it'd be great to have with that pretext. Just some constructive feedback as a likeminded enthusiast of this field!

[@luckysbeats]

I love this channel. You sound like the spongebob narrator its great

[@DjTavy]

Simply WOW! 😅

[@Linkman-fm2in]

This is awesome, but I can't do it because I'm in the US.

[@1kreature]

The problem is this was a common way to do it when I started 3d printing at the very beginning of the adventure. How come they can get a patent on it??? For extrusion and injection industry it was also normal to use protrusions and partial blockages for plastic mixing and more even melting. That's where we got the ideas from. It's not patendable.

[@SianaGearz]

It is my thinking as well that the patent seems invalid. The splitter nozzle is well known in injection moulding, though i guess a specific way to manufacture it is potentially patentable. As to the things you saw years ago, can you find it? Prior art is often used in order to invalidate a patent.

[@kentanakamura577]

This is absolutely true and the patent office certainly didn't do their job.

[@glabifrons]

I'm fairly certain that patents don't restrict you from making anything for yourself in the US as well. You can even use the drawings in the patents themselves directly. You just can't sell it.

[@protator]

That seems to be case in most countries, but I vaguely remember reading about some restrictions to that principle in the US that could apply to regular Joes building stuff at home. Probably nothing you need to worry about as long as you go about your hobbies quietly without attracting much attention. And even then it's rather unlikely that a company would immediately sue you over a non-commercial thing that doesn't hurt their bottom line.

[@b5a5m5]

Have you considered putting an edge on the wire with some needle files before inserting?

[@tsbrownie]

Use a brass or copper tube rather than wire. Once it is in place crush the tube flat. Yes you need very fine needle nose pliers.

[@someguy2741]

I wonder if there are gains if you extend the tip of the nozzle instead of the throat. If the plastic spends more time in the 0.6mm section the polymer may realign before exiting the nozzle.

[@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega]

yeah the 0.6mm/ output hole should be a lot longer.

[@HenryHHolmes]

Have you considered sharpening the wire for better splitting

[@PachezZ]

Wonder if there would be change in the performance if you sanded the wire down a bit to form a "blade"

[@andrewbeaton3302]

Who said that circles have the best flow characteristics? It's more about creating MORE SURFACE areas to pool up plastic to have slightly FASTER RESULTS in this use case! Circle shapes are less efficient in thermal dissipation and speed than we previously knew. THE FRICTION OF LIQUID HITTING A WALL IS MORE THAN IT IS IN THE CENTER OF THE FLOW. if WE CAN MAKIE OVAL NOZZLES WE'D GET EVEN MORE! The friction of the plastic or liquid in a circle is more than an oval type or other shapes! TRY USING DOUBLE THE SURFACE AREA AND THEN USE A NON CIRCLE SHAPE THAT ALLOWS MORE FLOW WITH LESS FRICTION. GREAT VIDEO!

[@fred-9929]

Great video! I would try to put a piece of thin sheet coper vertically into the nozzle... This would greatly increase the contact surface, without reducing the free cross section.

[@Rychlas]

How about cutting the nozzle along its longer axis, and putting a piece of copper sheet in the cut? < || > < || > < > ..\_/ || - cut with a copper sheet inside PS: You can also file the edges in the middle of the sheet that'll be inside the nozzle, to make it sharper to even further ease the flow. I believe it could be relatively easy to do. Make a vertical (along the axis of rotation) cut on a bandsaw or with a careful cut with a handsaw. Cut a piece of copper plate to be slightly wider than the nozzle. Drill a bit wider hole the length of the copper plate (or skip this part if the flowrate is enough to reduce die swell). Insert the plate, solder it. If you don't want to solder, you could try to heat up the nozzle from its tip to expand it and put the plate in the freezer, then try to hammer it down the hole, but you'd have to work on the tolerances quite a bit for this to work (you'd have to be careful not to pry the nozzle open, too). You could also just tig weld it. Then the only thing left to do is to thread it and to file the upper parts of the plate to fit the shape of the nozzle's chamfer. I hope this message does reach you, as I believe it to be an upgrade to the solution shown in the video. Cheers!

[@Personnenenparle]

I suggest doing 2 holes on opposite sides at different height that goes half way, so the flow isnt restricted as much.

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

Yeah, and you could sharpen the wire to a pointed tip.

[@HighVoltageMadness]

Dont try this with your printer there is a possibility of the solder melting and your nozzle getting stuck in the hot end. High melting silver solder must be used

[@PaulG.x]

A few tips that might improve this: 1. You could increase the bore where the copper bar is to compensate for the obstruction the bar causes. 2. When you solder the bar, you can remove the excess solder by dropping the nozzle on a hard surface before the solder solidifies - the impact causes all the excess solder to splash off. Then clean the thread with a triangular file of a suitable size. 3. You can make the bar form and interference fit so that you don't need to solder it. Use some annealed copper wire (you can anneal it easily yourself) that is slightly larger than the hole you drill . Roll the wire between 2 smooth plates (6mm steel would be suitable) applying some force to the plate with your hand . Repeated rolling will reduce the diameter of the wire. When the wire almost fits the hole , heat the nozzle to expand the hole so the wire fits. 4. You should have added the second wire in the same orientation as the first. Putting it at 90 ° only adds flow restriction

[@CrashPCcz]

Wow, nice experiment! Today I tested my Garage Volcano CHT - stepped opening, and box cutter blade divider with some optimisations inside. I could extrude 35mm/s without much limit, on a Ti heatbreak (disadvantage for heating). Got just slightly degraded extrusion rate. What was bigger problem was speed. High extrusion rate at slow speed was okay. Same extrusion rate at high speed was bad.

[@jasonnelles7318]

Reduce drill bit walk by inserting the bit farther into the collet, giving it less distance to flex.

[@Inventorsquare]

It was as far as it could go without grabbing onto the flutes. He needs a stub drill, or to grind that one down substantially, at cost of increasing the web size.

[@SamPinchesMakerShop]

Thanks Carl & 3D Solex for being so supportive to this community exploration! I just ordered 2x CHT nozzles, looking forward to trying them out.

[@CNCKitchen]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@klausbrinck2137]

If an experienced machinist has done it, your nozzle would have been better than the CHT... ;-) Well done !!!! You always care a lot about methodical correctness. So, you know, that if you print with 10cmm/s the lowest layers and with 30cmm/s the top ones, it would have been advisable to repeat and print also with 30cmm/s the lowest and with 10cmm/s the top ones. And because in this case, it´d have been imposible to print higher layers on top of destroyed lower ones (and still represent a valid result), the way out would have been to print separately for each flow-level, and not on top of each other. Cause if your nozzle is minimaly worse at 30cmm/s, then it´s probably also just a bit worse at 25cmm/s. That means, that while comparing the 2 at 25cmm/s, they seem indistinguishable, but maybe they aren´t. So, printing 30cmm/s on top of 25cmm/s gives your solution an unfair disadvantage in looks, cause your indistinguishably/marginaly worse 25cmm/s-block affects the 30cmm/s-block. It means that you showcase a trend, but the level of how much yours is worse, is off/misrepresented.

[@molomono9481]

I would love to see the same mod possibly even multiple times in a volcano nozzle. Because in a volcano nozzle there is more room for the specific attributes causing the negative properties to normalize. Such as the pressure difference and the die warping effect. Thus making them easier to manufacture with similar results which implies potential for further improvement. Also to manufacture a nozzle like this propperly it needs to be done on a lathe/mill combo machine. That way al the holes can be lined up correctly, mill the hex shape (unless your stock is already hex) and drill the horizontal holes for the wires first. Then use the lathe to mill the rest of the nozzle + threading. This also allows the soldering to occur before threading. As always amazing video, always inspiring and entertaining. I always walk away with new knowledge after these videos.

[@chrisdixonstudios]

SPIRAL it: Use drill bit to make hole large as you can. Leave drill bit in it! Snap off, grindstone flat. Extrude thru spirals of drill bit. Hopefully large enough 'holes' for max flow. Definitely a smooth flowing melt zone.

[@timoldguysgaming8432]

Love your approach! When you added the single wire, you realized the need to open the input orifice. But, when you added the second wire, also you made comments about the resistance, yet you didn't try to open it up. I think you missed a great opportunity there. Nonetheless, great work as always, love your videos. Props to 3D Solex for being cool with these experiments.

[@jtjames79]

It's not illegal to DYI a patented object in the United States for personal use. Even if it was it's completely unenforceable. And even if you did sell small batches of a patented thing, it wouldn't be worth enforcing, the worst that happens is you get a cease and desist. You would also be surprised how limited patents can be. If you make one small change you can patent that change and now the original patent owner can't make that change themselves without paying you. Patenting patent trolls patents is patently priceless. I also have an extremely hard time believing there is no examples of prior art. Just because the government rubber stamps a patent doesn't mean it's valid. The system is set up to give people frivolous patents and then let lawyers fight over it. That's not considering "method" patents. But that's an entirely different can of worms. Patents literally exist to teach people how to make the thing. The government has bastardized it over the last couple hundred years. But you're supposed to copy them, that's what they exist for.

[@claws61821]

@CNC Kitchen Wonderful video and very informative, although I don't believe the patent in question covers the use of inserted wires as heat spreaders the way you seem concerned about. Additionally, I'm pretty sure the patent *can't* protect against the competing use of Prior Art designs like some of those discussed in 3DP and other manufacturing communities for a couple of decades (mentioned briefly in your CHT teardown video), and I *know* the patent can't legally prevent competition based on the same conceptual lines of research and differing designs. All of that aside @Aj Rutherford elsewhere in comments gives good advice on centering your holes for future drilling but leaves a few questions unanswered. Stefan, can you please revisit this in a video where you flatten the sides of the copper wire before or after insertion to give it a shear edge, and compare the performance of soldered to welded wires? Thank you!

[@TheAruruu]

I'm not sure where you heard otherwise, but there is no such thing as patent or copyright infringement if you are making it yourself, for your self, and will not be selling the thing. Ad revenue from a video where you make your own version of something that is patented, even if it includes the step-by-step instructions for making the patented thing, is 100% legal, as the money is coming from content of your effort, not the sale of a product. It only enters light grey area if you give the finished item away, and gets dangerous close to the line if you make them in bulk to give away. I suppose you could get in trouble if you made something yourself, but tried to claim it was the authentic product (still not giving it away/selling it), but someone actually doing that is kinda unlikely. (also, commissioning someone to make a patented thing for you likely results in the maker [not commissioner] violating the patent, so please don't do that either.) It's primarily access to the necessary tools, and the skill to use said tools, that prevents people from making these kinds of things on their own.

[@zero_gravity5861]

what if you filed down flats on the sides of the wire in the middle, creating more of a fin rather than a round wire? keeping the ends round would mean the soldering would still conserve the threads.

[@maximizeyourgame3553]

somewhat of a proper machinist here. The reason your drills were wandering off center of the nozzle is due to the tool geometry of drills and you're drilling into the side of a thread. To help with this try center drilling with about 1k rpm's if you can swing it. However, another concern is that you are drilling directly into the threads. If you want to make sure that the drill goes completely straight. I would take an endmill and machine the threads flat, center drill, and then i would use the .8 mm drill. hope this helps you out!

[@squidcaps4308]

Hmm... i wonder if one could cut razor blade with a laser to exact tolerance to fit inside a nozzle and have it be there with friction fit alone.. well, not really friction fit since i would assume the slice of the razor would have to be just slightly too large so you it pushes into the brass. But how to insert it there.... I'm sure small flat needlenose pliers could get it far enough and you could maybe hammer it in the rest of the way.. Or even machine a cut thru the nozzle for it and solder it with silver (not silver tin, but silver).

[@CamsGames1]

I saw a similar design in the TurboTap which was made to greatly increase the rate at which beer can be served. Splitting the flow up into small sections will create more laminar flow and greatly reduce pressure loss due to high friction turbulent flow. This is a very smart application

[@TektorPlays]

i'm thinking if just making a straight cut in the nozzle and using like 0.3mm copper strip would be easier and maby work better than a wire.

[@raulduke7142]

Dremel the wire that will sit inside the nozzle, before soldering it in place. Make them thinner and come to a sharp edge so the sharp edge is facing the filament. I imagine doing this would eliminate the need to drill nozzle and make it perform very close to the winner, if not exceed its performance.

[@RuzAnd]

Нужно попробовать поставить проволоку под углом 45 градусов к потоку и 90 градусов к сечению. Это увеличить площадь нагрева при том же проходном сечении. Es ist notwendig, den Draht zu versuchen, den Draht in einen Winkel von 45 Grad auf den Strömung und 90 Grad zum Querschnitt zu legen.Dies erhöht den Heizbereich am selben Durchlaufabschnitt.

[@EUSPD]

Try drilling the nozzle at 45 degrees to the axis. This will increase the active surface area of the wire inside the nozzle and probably reduce the friction of the filament.

[@simoncleret]

The less of the bit you have sticking out, the stiffer it'll be. If you're setting up the tool for a single operation, there's no reason not to make it as short as possible for rigidity.

[@jamesdond1]

If you want to drill in the center of the threaded head you need to first use a small center drill. they don't bend and will allow you to drill without the drill walking problem.

[@testboga5991]

I think a cloverleaf shape inside or star shaped is not effectively covered by the patent but would probably be similarly effective.

[@mate_timitime1093]

what if you champhered the wire in the diy hotends so there is a little bit less resistance

[@binmode]

I wonder what happen if you do this mod in a volcano. Performance similar to super volcano? :D