My homemade V8 engine gets watercooling part 14

[@apex107lrp]

You have no need to apologize...most people who enjoy this content can understand the huge amount of effort involved👍👍

[@Desmouffe]

Thank you. Yes, it was quite a journey...

[@1toonhead]

True are should never be rushed. This has turned into one very interesting project.

[@markjones95]

Amazing work. I admire your patience & dedication to your projects. Please keep us posted on your progress when you get the chance. Regards from the UK

[@Desmouffe]

I will...

[@carsandguitars3894]

The skill and patience this man possesses is beyond me. Good work 👍

[@Desmouffe]

Please, I'm just a retired electrician...

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday, absolutely fantastic job, this is a massive amount of work to take on but it will be worth the effort at the end when the engine is running nice and cool, great job mate, cheers

[@Desmouffe]

Thank you. your comments really helps me continue

[@Paulman50]

Very nice work. It always worries me, dropping cold stuff into hot boars like that, I always think its going to lock up half way down. Looking forward to your next video. Cheers from New Zealand

[@Desmouffe]

Yes, you have to do it fast.

[@willemm]

Very interesting again. I wonder if the designer of that oven could have imagined that his product would once be used to heat engine parts for a custom V8 :)

[@paulcost6446]

Awesome work great when you have all the milling and lathes required and the knowledge to do this fantastic project don't rush it we will wait for the next video. Greetings from Australia

[@greggc8088]

Poor mailman. 😂😂 Thanks for sharing. Awesome!

[@paulknuff1555]

Outstanding job as always.

[@carlmalone4011]

Thanks for what you do. It's too bad you couldn't get tube stock for the sleeves. You have the patience of Jobe.

[@Desmouffe]

I just think it's such a waste of material

[@kennynelson2269]

Awesome job cant wait for the updates and complete engine..

[@MCW1955]

Great to see a master at work! Greetings from Northern California.

[@Desmouffe]

Northern California, I was working on a project in Bakersfield for 4 weeks ten years ago. It was hot....

[@emdae921]

Man i would love to visit your shop and the things i could learn from you, such a knowledgeable guy and a great engineer. Great stuff as always, i really look forward to your videos mate.

[@chrisprobert6]

Keep ya busy for a bit. Winter will fly by😅👍

[@williamdejeffrio9701]

Impressive work - I'm following closely

[@nigelport9862]

Legend

[@denny75t]

Amazing work! Master precision ..👌🙂

[@Desmouffe]

🙂

[@Six4691]

Amazing work sir!

[@Desmouffe]

Thank you

[@Aaron_AJO]

fantastic work, thankyou for your great videos

[@richardwirt3193]

You are a great machinist such great work

[@Desmouffe]

Thank you

[@mattiasrosberg1332]

Älskar det du gör! Det finns inget bättre än verksamhet, som när frågan ställs, om varför det görs, besvaras med: för att det går. Mäkta imponerande det här!

[@Desmouffe]

Tackar

[@thecorbies]

Hello and thank you for sharing this interesting project with us. I have no idea how far you are with this project, but I wonder if it may be worth considering making a trepanning tool such as in the video linked below. Once the tool is made, not only might it speed things up for the other cylinders, but you'll also have some cast iron 'slugs' left over to use elsewhere. This video shows the basic design of a trepanning tool, but you'll probably want to watch a couple of his videos where he is actually cutting material as well. This channel has quite a number of interesting jobs and also repairs to the tools he's made and used. Link below: You'll probably want to watch a couple of his videos where he is actually cutting material as well. Regards Mark in the UK

[@Desmouffe]

Could not see any link but I have checked what it is and the idea is not bad. My lathe is to weak and small and old for it. Then you don't waste all that material. Nice

[@SDS-1]

Nice work

[@watahyahknow]

dont think the bronze is a good idea for valveseats , my idea is that since the valveseats get pretty hot and the valves slam intoo them at a high rate they will deform too fast , i think stainless would be better as its a harder material , high performance valves are usually made from this material too dom stainless tube probably works as for the solid bar to make the cilinders : maibe you can coredrill the center out , at least that way you have usuable material left for a different project been looking intoo making my own cilinders and wat thinking about cast iron sewagepipe as the base , probably whont work but it cant hurt to try sumting else im thinking about is cut up a cast iron engineblock for its cast in cilinders and wittle those down to sumting i can use as a sleeve

[@Desmouffe]

Yes, they get hot. And the valves (exhaust) get hotter and gets cooling in contact with the seats. Stainless steel has very poor heat conductivity . Future will tell. I don't know what's the right choise her

[@markmossinghoff8185]

Next project for this engine is overhead valves.

[@Desmouffe]

Interesting, but I have a crush on flatheads

[@goranjacobsson-ns7jn]

Kul att se dina filmer å ditt enorma tålamod,,,keep going😊

[@Desmouffe]

😁

[@JS-kd7jf]

Greetings from USA,, i too believe stainless steel would be better for SEATS than the bronze!!

[@Desmouffe]

Future will tell...

[@caesar1295]

Excellent take your time we’ll be here to watch your updates. I wonder about your monthly electric bill with all your tooling machinery you have is it reasonable and does your wife complain about the bill. Keep up the great work Sir.

[@Desmouffe]

The electric bill is not very big and the mrs is happy. She knows where I am...

[@life_of_riley88]

Was it because you were looking for Cast Iron for the cylinder liners, that you couldn't find tubing? Cast iron tubing/pipe is not a common item, as almost all tube/pipe is some grade of mild steel now. I'm not sure how steel liners would work? Maybe too hard on rings. . .🤔

[@Desmouffe]

There is cast iron tubes available for the industry but for me as a private person it's hard to get. I have a supplier of materials and he could not get it. And even if he did, it's the same cost more or less. The gain is shorter machining times. I do want cast iron because it contains 2 - 4 % carbon that gives very low friction and the oil sticks to the surface.

[@Hydrogenblonde]

This comment comes a bit late but may be useful for future projects. Cut out the centre of the bar with a hole saw. You may need to extend the hole saw with a piece of tube to get the depth but at least you will have a core left for other work and not waste material.

[@Desmouffe]

The subject was up for discussion at the time. There is something called trepanning tool that makes big holes and save the core for later use. But in my case, I didn't want to go all the way thru. I made the bar 20mm longer and left the last 20mm massive so I had a solid piece to fasten in the chuck. When you make a sleeve only 3mm thick there is a big risk it becomes triangular. And if you don't tighten the chuck hard enough you get vibrations or worse, it loosen.

[@Hydrogenblonde]

@@Desmouffe yes I can see your point. With a hole saw of the right diameter you could make the bar into a very thick walled pipe. It should have thick enough walls to clamp securely in the lathe chuck so you can bore, turn and part off. I don't think a trappaning tool would go deep enough for a cylinder. I've made cylinders 4 1/2" long by hollowing out a solid bar with a hole saw. Something to keep in mind for a future project.

[@Desmouffe]

@@Hydrogenblonde And one more thing. With my method I can do both inside and outside without changing it in the chuck. But the main reason is I don't have a hole saw and I guess they are expensive.

[@Hydrogenblonde]

@@Desmouffe no they are pretty cheap really. Get the high speed steel type for cutting metal. Sandvik makes a range of sizes. You'll need the arbour as well. As I said before they have limited depth of cut and will need extending to cut the depth needed for a cylinder. Only problem is they are slow. It is a sawing operation not a drilling operation. The saw teeth are shallow and the hole saw will need to be removed from the cut frequently to clear out the chips from the teeth. But cast iron is pretty soft, you will cut through it without trouble. Also good on aluminium. I've made quite a few cylinder blocks from aluminium round bar, cut the centre out with a extended holesaw and saved the piece from the centre for another job. Experiment with it. It could be useful in the future.

[@Desmouffe]

@@Hydrogenblonde Could be worth trying. Time is no problem for me. The way I did it one sleeve took more then a day to make.

[@glennkristiansen]

God work. Godt jobba 😁

[@Desmouffe]

👍

[@IrenESorius]

👍‍‍🌟👍‍‍

[@ebeptoh]

9:50 when i try to cut like this on my lathe it vibrates like a Soil compactor (i have one like yours, a copycat of SOUTH BEND 9")

[@Desmouffe]

I know. It's a very exiting moment. I avoid cutting in the lathe if I can. You need a very steady lathe.

[@tkmad7470]

Love your projects! What about just water cooled cylinder heads like some experimental aviation engines have gone to?

[@Desmouffe]

I think they are not flatheads. I have my valves in the cylinder-part that needs lubrication and cooling. Instead I could have had cooling on the cylinders only but I need to lead the water back to the front of the engine so why not let it pass tru the heads.

[@vassdalencustom8689]

Imponerende arbeid! 👏🏻 stå på 🤠

[@Desmouffe]

Mycke jobb blir det. Får se hur länge jag orkar...

[@vassdalencustom8689]

@@Desmouffe bare og holde på det så plutselig er man ferdig 😆 kjedelig å lage flere av samme delen kjenner igjen den..

[@donniewatson9120]

How many hours did it take to cut through the round bar?

[@Desmouffe]

Cut it was done in 15min. But making a sleeve of it took a day or two...

[@sodderbridge]

I find that hard to believe that there was no pipe size that could have been machined to fit. Did you look at imperial sizes as well?

[@Desmouffe]

There is, but find someone that sells to a private person (not to a company) and can sell in my case a one meter long piece, not a full length of 6m. This piece I had to buy from England.

[@Desmouffe]

And one more thing. Even if I find material in shape of a pipe, it's the same cost. You will get less machining time but time is free for me...

[@RickBaconsAdventures]

keep in mind that it has to be cast iron and not steel, that limits what's available

[@sodderbridge]

@@RickBaconsAdventures If you read comments from previous video, I specifically mentioned "ductile iron".

[@dennis-nz5im]

@@RickBaconsAdventureswhat?

[@tiitsaul9036]

Are the cylinder bores made of cast iron? Or whats that material?

[@Desmouffe]

Yes. Cast iron

[@joelshopefullyhelpfulvideo3010]

I’ve heard that some people use old recycled car rear axle housings to make cast iron piston rings. Maybe this could have been used to make cylinders also. Loving all your videos! Cheers from Canada

[@Desmouffe]

I'm sure that would work. If you can find the right dimensions.@@joelshopefullyhelpfulvideo3010

[@opieshomeshop]

*Just curious why you didn't get iron tube as it would have been a lot less to machine down and probably cheaper. I wasn't able to see how the sleeve is being held in place either. Hopefully the sleeve doesnt move after you get it going. On the valve seats, I don't know. I think you're going to have some serious problems with those. Iron alloy seats are generally more than adequate for valve seats for applications like this and they have great wear resistance, and great thermal conductivity. The types of bronze alloys used in valve seats are not the same as the type of bronze you are using and additionally these types of seats are only used with titanium valves. Also, you should get liquid nitrogen in your shop. Your freezer doesn't get things cold enough to shrink the amount your materials need and may actually be expanding the materials rather than shrinking them. Also, freezer cold won't maintain the cold long enough. Just a thought.*

[@Desmouffe]

I would have bought cast iron tube if I could but my supplier could not get it. The cost is almost the same but the gain is machining time. When I cut the piece I made it 20mm longer than needed. Then when I machined the inside I left the 20mm so the piece is very steady were its attached to the lathe. You can see in the video that there is piece left in the chuck. otherwise the tube will be deformed. The seats are always a problem. You don't want them to come loose when the engine gets hot. I made the hole for the seats 0,5 mm deeper than the seat. Then I have a tool to press the edge so it wells over the seat a bit. Is it cheating? I worked at the Husqvarna factory in the 1980 ies when they made the 4-strokes and yes, they were using nitrogen. But I guess it's a little hard to find...

[@opieshomeshop]

@@Desmouffe Ive had a lot of Husqvarna things over the years. Always the best.