MY MOST CONTROVERSIAL VIDEO YET? IS SUPER STEEL PLAYED OUT?

MY MOST CONTROVERSIAL VIDEO YET? IS SUPER STEEL PLAYED OUT?- Well here we go... there will be a lot of folks in the knife community that will hate on me for this, BUT PLEASE HEAR ME OUT!!!
#edc #edcknife #edccommunity #everydaycarry #knife #knives #knifecommunity #spyderco
SAVE 40% WITH COUPON CODE crazysharp (ALL LOWERCASE) AT beyondedcknive...
JOIN THE COMMUNITY DISCORD- www.guilded.gg...
CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO SPONSORS:
COFFEE BRAND COFFEE, SAVE 5%- coffeebrandcof...
TEMPERED TRAIL- temperedtrail....?sca_ref=3490368.HyUVk2Ludg
DALSTRONG KNIVES- dalstrong.com/...
SHOP MY AMAZON STORE TO SUPPOR THE CHANNEL- www.amazon.com...
Great every day carry knife options that can be picked up at these vendors:
KATSU KNIVES (SAVE 10% WITH CODE crazysharp all lower case) -
katsuknife.com...
QSP- www.qspknife.c...
KIZER KNIVES-shareasale.com...
KNIVES SHIP FREE- shareasale.com...
BLADE HQ- shareasale.com...
GP KNIVES- shareasale.com...
WE KNIFE CO/CIVIVI- shareasale.com...
ARTISAN CUTLERY/CJRB- shareasale.com...
VOSTEED KNIVES- shareasale.com...
So any of the knives you're searching for can probably be found at BladeHQ, use my link - shareasale.com...
To get access to exclusive content and giveaways, click the link below
/ @crazysharp
guys please also follow mw on my alt-tech channels over at:
rumble- rumble.com/c/c...
SOG knives has provided us with an affiliate link so please go check out their offerings- alink.to/gVFLxl
use my Olight link to get great deals on lights- shareasale.com...
survival frog- shareasale.com...
Recomended EDC knives-
sea snake- amzn.to/3y3UEbU
coated black sea snake- amzn.to/3eSzKVC
QSP Penguin- amzn.to/3zGH12z
Artisan Arroyo- amzn.to/3l0cXuS
FFKW Gent- amzn.to/3iNQ0s1
FFKW Crux- amzn.to/372nAoO
FFKW Prolix- amzn.to/2VfaSR2
FFKW Buc- amzn.to/3eY7DEG
CJRB Crag- amzn.to/2VJ7PAK
CJRB Maileah- amzn.to/3ACBnPM
Here is a list of items i use for cleaning and repair-
blue loctite stick- amzn.to/3wXhD7a
torx bits- amzn.to/3x2XSeq
remoil- amzn.to/3x6oefs
hemostats- amzn.to/3kTZu7F
Electronics swabs- amzn.to/3BUQrcK
short handle1/4 inch bit driver - amzn.to/36Wwyns
long handle 1/4 inch bit driver- amzn.to/3zxxB9K
Jeweler' screw drivers- amzn.to/3BVLL6A
scratch brush set- amzn.to/3eULbfz
fluorinated grease- amzn.to/3rF2ypJ
KPL- amzn.to/3BDKJvN
hexdriver tool set- amzn.to/3BG5ffd
diamond file set- amzn.to/2WjFRvJ
soft side knife case- amzn.to/3kYpxLj
drill press converter- amzn.to/3BKvn8N
Stones for beginners-
1000/6000 grit combo- amzn.to/3kNB0x4
600/2000 grit combo- amzn.to/2WhI2Qt
lapping stone for flattening- amzn.to/3fCtZvx
Advanced sharpening stones-
shapton 8000grit- amzn.to/3x2sYTA
shapton 10,000 grit- amzn.to/3x52YXo
shapton 12,000 grit- amzn.to/3kWmaUW
spyderco fine ceramic- amzn.to/3i0ESsx
spyderco ultra fine ceramic- amzn.to/3BBac9h

[@LonestarTaoboy]

I think I missed something here. What was the drama, or controversy?

[@brandonmaples]

Im really liking Aeb-l it does everything I need it to do and its pretty corrosion proof since i live in the south

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

Wanted an aeb-l knife for a long time. I really like getting very keen edges on my blades

[@TwinGunz]

I’ll always love 440C , when done right, this is almost the perfect steel. 14C28N is my favorite. I just don’t believe in paying a mortgage for a (supposedly), better steel. I use to buy those fancy steels. But one day you wake up, asking yourself, how in the hell do some knives cost as much as firearms. It just gets ridiculous in my opinion,

[@CrazySharp]

Well make sure you tell KZbin to notify you about this one when it is viewable so you can see if I agree ☝️

[@TwinGunz]

@@CrazySharp oh I’m definitely marking it and setting a alarm 😂 I gotta feeling, you probably see stuff how I see it. How the hell could a firearm and a knife, cost the same to manufacture, in so many cases. I love blades, I’m not saying there worthless at all. But the price is just not even close to being worth it for just an upgraded steel. In my opinion. Everytime I get a good 440C blade, I always felt like it was a great steel for EDC. Everytime I get an expensive one, because of the supposedly better steel, I felt so taken advantage of. Yeah I stopped buying expensive knives. It’s just not worth it. I wish it was, but it’s so not.

[@Mridgwell]

Knife is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it , think too many people get caught up in the name of the steel instead of the quality of the steel like you said well done 440c is awesome but well done magnacut is even better but the trouble is whose doing it well is the tricky part.

[@TwinGunz]

@@CrazySharp ALMOST SHOWTIME!!!!!!

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

​@Mridgwell Its not just flat better though, its only better in one respect. Murray Carter used to teach people how important it was to grind every bevel on a knife, not just the edge bevel. Doing that on something like Magnacut is an insane task, its even difficult on typical abrasives for simple steels like aus8. I think super high hardness and wear resistant steels are good for niche applications but general use blades (especially outdoor blades) should be in simple steels. Or, at the very least, a simple steel should be an option.

[@alpine1600s]

Edge geometry has almost all but been forgotten by your average body.

[@Mridgwell]

Looking forward to this one hope it’s an old school Mike video nothing held back

[@asleepyinsomnia]

yeah thats why i switched from supersteels as well. mid range knives gives me good edge retention AND i get to sharpen it more than once a year lol. i want a good balance between performance and user fun

[@tacticalcenter8658]

If your getting as good retention as s90v... Your getting ripped off with those s90v knives. Wrong steel or poorly heat treated.

[@alpine1600s]

For me, it's titanium. All aesthetic and they charge you 2x for one of the most common elements on earth.

[@jpolhamus71]

Your paying more for titanium cause it's a lot more time and tools to mill titanium..

[@airiksknifereviews9548]

Money and usability. Supersteel does nothing for me , I cut wood 99% of the time . I dont use folders, only fixed blades, and for bushcraft outdoors, it just doesn't matter. I like carbon cause it takes on character, stainless is boring and when ya do get a scratch it looks horrible. I can see why people who like folders would love super steel esp for cutting boxes and other manmade materials. BUT the price in this market sucks.

[@davidheath2427]

The fix blade knives in supersteel are even worse. Keep em stroped people.

[@EDCandLace]

3:35 someone FINALLY SAID IT! couldn't agree more! When im having to run a magnacut knife at 320 max it maintain aggression and totally suffer on push cutting performance.. a magnacut fangurl I am NOT. it's a very good steel and has its purpose but not in my pocket!

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Does any of that change with the protocol? With or without cryo or faster quench (usually the only two differences other than hardness)? You've undoubtedly seen many more brands than I have.

[@mattakudesu]

14c is pretty much the only steel I need.

[@MrDarrylR]

I don't mind resharpening, but hate reprofiling to repair chipped edges. So the less tough PM steels like Rex-121, Maxamet, ZDP-189, S110V, 15V, S90V, M390, 20CV, 204P are just not options for knives I intend to use. Moreover, most production companies that use the M390/20CV/204P trio appear to run them soft to cut abrasives costs/warranty claims, and I think this may account for Mike's issues with many particle metallurgy steels, as much as their composition. There are some great, tougher PM steels that are routinely heat treated to 60+ HRC. For harder use especially in fixed blades, the high-alloy tool steels CPM-CruWear, CPM-4V, CPM-M4, with K390 at Spyderco's 65 HRC heat treat being my favorite. MagnaCut, remarkably, slots onto this line around 4V while being highly corrosion resistant, though it seems only a few production companies are heat treating it to 62+ HRC where it would really shine. For others, as with so many knives in M390, the steel is part of the marketing. For pocket knives where more stainlessness is desired, XHP, CPM-154, SG2, S45VN, and Elmax. And when extreme corrosion resistance is desired, the expensive, rarely used Vanax. As for ingot stainless steels, 14C28N is as tough as CPM-3V, though it gives up a lot on wear resistance. AEB-L is similarly tough, and may be the best cutlery steel (where wear resistance isn't so important), as its the toughest stainless that can be heat treated to 63 HRC. And LC200N has miraculous corrosion resistance for a martensitic steel. This trio clusters in the high toughness, moderate wear resistance corner of Dr. Larrin Thomas's charts. For a more balanced, more wear resistant ingot stainless, VG-10 is still an excellent choice. The wear resistance of 154CM and 440C, but a little tougher and takes a keener edge.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Xhp is not stainless. When spyderco uses it, they mirror Stonewash it to reduce rusting. It's high in chromium prior to heat treatment, but that chromium doesn't go towards staunlessness once it's heat treated. It gets converted to cardbjdes

[@MrDarrylR]

@@tacticalcenter8658 I regard stainlessness as a spectrum, not a binary. Above, I intended to mean XHP is more stainless than say 3V, Cru-Wear or ZDP-189, but they in turn are more stainless than low-alloy tool steels, like 52100, A2, and 1095.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

​@@MrDarrylRxhp will rust if you look at it.

[@ninemimesleft]

I wish Spyderco would switch their bd1n knives to 14c28n. I find that steel far superior and a manix lw in that would rock.

[@auroraborealisknives4019]

100% agree

[@patrickvanovermeeren4513]

Agreed !!!!

[@tacklecentralfishing1051]

Gimme some well done s30v. It's always done well by me. The hipsters hate it but i love it.

[@tacklecentralfishing1051]

1095 and 3v are the best non stainless steels for my use.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

There's a lot of awful s30v and a lot of burnt from manufacture sharpening that causes issues. Benchmade and spiderco both do good s30v

[@tacklecentralfishing1051]

@@tacticalcenter8658 a few sharpenings to get to the good steel and it performs good. I get some nasty sharp edges on my S30V endura.

[@tikkidaddy]

Agreed. I have carried the very "unsuper" steels you have listed for ages. CPM3V is as super as I'm going to get for a hard use outdoor knife /Chopper. BUT properly processed A2 serves well...I have also carried and used Cold Steels original Japanese made AUS8A knives since the Voyagers came out and still do. When it STARTS to get dull, HONE it with ceramic. Hone it every time you use it. You don't need to grind on it with some aggressive stone, just hone and strop it. VG10 Delica serrated does the box opening work. Breaking down cardboard? That's what God made utility knives for ...yes I said it. Im not spending $300 to $400 on a knife and hammering on it with a baseball bat thru a hunk of wood or ripping up nasty old household carpet.😂 People get into knock down drag outs and months long arguments about this stuff on YT and its just out of control.... JMHO YMMV

[@tacticalcenter8658]

You should try the delta 3v protocol for 3v steel. It's better than the standard secondary hardening option normally used for 3v.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Roman Landes Heat Treatment recommendation: Now this is what I would recommend for heat treat cpm 3v: 1st preheat: 500-600°C, equalize 2nd preheat:800-900°C, equalize Authenize: 1060-1070°C, equalize, soak 30-35min Quench in Oil preheated 60-80°C Cryo: immediately after cleaning, minimum -80°C or lower soak 30min 1st Temper: 150°C equalize, soak 2hrs, quench in water Cryo: immediately after temper 2nd Temper: 180-200°C equalize, soak 2hrs should give you 60+ and a fine durable grain. RGDS Roman This is why I would do it like this. The "receipt" suitable is for a vacuum furnace (Quench with maximum pressure) or a regular cline, but surface protection has to be assured. Salt bath will cut the soak time approximately by 1/3 and thus give better aust-grain. The preheating steps will assure the the austenization steps can be done quick. Quicker speed >> smaller grain Authenization temperature is dedicated to dissolve Chrome and Molybdenum >> fair hardness and some enhanced "Stainresistance" is to be expected. The vanadium will remain in the steel bond as a compound of carbon, hence aust-grain cant really grow The oil quench is suitable for any steel out of the air hardening classes. The thin cross sections get higher hardness after quench (greater volume fraction of martensite) and a less stabilized volume fraction retained austenite. (The volume fraction of RA can be expected (near guess) between 20 and 30% or even higher) Warping of the blade shall not be an issue with these materials. If you have done a lot of hard mechanical work before hardening (milling, grinding,)then do a stress relief so warping gets less likely. The cryo needs to be done as quick as possible below -80°C. RA tends to stabilize rather quickly after the quench (some reports speak of minutes) The longer you wait, the less efficient the transformation to untempered martensite will be. And a minimum of -70°C is necessary to get enough stress into the micro structure, so the transformation (RA>>Martensite) process can restart again. Extensive soak time is not necessary since the process runs at hypersonic speed. But still there will be remains of RA that need to be addressed by the 2nd cryo. The first temper is a low temper so the remaining RA is stabilized at the lowest level possible and at the same time there is enough stress relief in the martensite that has been built and furthermore the transformation from tetragonal to cubic martensite is started. The water quench speeds the whole thing up and avoids precipitation of embrittling phases. Then the rest of the remaining RA will be attacked by the 2nd cryo (usually the RA will drop below 5% volume fraction) so burr formation is less likely. 2nd temper will now temper the untempered martensite build up by the cryo and bring the blade to a fully tempered martensitic structure with a low volume fraction of RA and a fair amount of carbides undissolved. Of course there is the question why not temper it at 540°C? First of all, if you don't have access to cryo then this is your way to go. In my studies of edge stability I did extensive work to compare secondary hardening and low temper with cryo. The results (reference is my graduate thesis 1999 Munich University of Applied Sciences) I found considerable higher edge stability with the samples that had low temper/cryo The material used at the time was ATS-34 all with the same charge and thus the same condition of austinization, but with different temper cycles. RGDS Roman

[@jakewolf079]

100%, not just for folders but for big knives as well

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

Especially big knives

[@Barney_Greenway]

Maybe it‘s time for the community to take a closer look in general at high-toughness supersteels like CruWear, LC200N (yes!) and MagnaCut. Edge retention isn‘t the be-all and end-all 🤘

[@tacticalcenter8658]

When you have most manufacturers using 60rc m390... Its not giving you edge retention. Its especially egregious when the prices are high. They should use a different steel instead of m390 if they do not want to make it 61-62rc.

[@JosephAllen-d2e]

Youre not done with supersteels because the is no such thing as a supersteel.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Here's a question. Have you tried sharpening knives with different heat treatment protocols? For instance m390, 3v, 154 and s90v just to name a few can be heat treated with or without secondary hardening. Have you tried comparing sharpening both? Also for magnacut have you tried with and without cryo and comparing them? Also sometimes we see differences between the quench times, where something gets quenched faster at a higher pressure for example in a vacuum oven. The difference say between Peters heat treatment of magnacut at a higher pressure value vs the Idaho facility that does Chris Reeves at lower pressure value.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Example of bohlers m390 secondary hardening protocol. You can see its better than the one you use. 550c 850c 1050c 1140c -150c 500c 515c 500c

[@fuelediowa]

To many people get caught up on the next best and to just sit it in the collection or on the shelf. A solid steel like vg10 , 154 and such is more than great for most users. Most don't understand that a good heat treatment and geometry will play a much greater part in the quality and experience. I look for guys who mainly use just one or two steels and does the heat treat themselves. They tend master them.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

I have a few in these steels. They are easy to sharpen but need to be sharpened often. I'll take s90v over that hassle

[@Hallucinosis]

I really like 5 of 6 steels you mentioned, but I'm no fan of ZDP-189--I'd take it over non-CPM D2, but yeah it's not for me. There are plenty of steels I like much more that work great with either a toothy, fine, or polished edge, like CPM-M4, K390, etc. that I'd always reach for before ZDP-189 and they probably have better edge retention too (at least K390). 4V, Cruwear, Magnacut, LC200N, and 3V are all great and tough. All those tough nitrogen-based extremely stainless steels are great for giving up some edge retention for fine grain structure, more toughness, and more stainlessness--makes sense you wouldn't be a fan if you prefer toothy edges.S90V, M390, 14C28N, 154CM, and VG10 all work well with coarse to polished edges, so for me ZDP-189 is the one weird outlier with big carbides of the bunch and by far the lowest toughness at its needed minimum 65RHC, but it's also not really stainless either.

[@braidyfisher3351]

154cm and cpm154 are still the 🐐 Stuff gets SILLY sharp, strops up easily, pretty corrosion resistant if its highly finished.

[@windowbreezes]

While a fork can do everything, spoons have very varied uses. all these steels. they're all good, the hype folks just ruin the credibility for steels.

[@palerider7171]

Totally agree.

[@57HEMIviken]

I very much enjoy a good budget steel, when around the house. But since getting the spyderco leafjumper in k390 it has put pretty much every other knife I own in retirement from being carried. K390 has blown my mind but it's still fun to put a well heat treated budget blade through its paces.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

K390 is pretty awesome. Just bear in mind that dirt will dull any steel rapidly.

[@57HEMIviken]

@donjuanmckenzie4897 yea I have shovels for dirt.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

@57HEMIviken Yeah cool but guess what? Things like sticks and logs and cardboard get dirty all the time 👍 🙄

[@57HEMIviken]

@donjuanmckenzie4897 you gonna tell me concrete will dull my blade too? I've got no problem using my knives for knife tasks, either way I've got a hapstone rs that will take care of it. For anything else I started carry a crossbar lock folding utility knife.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

@@57HEMIviken Hence, the reason why super steels are wasted on general purpose use, genius. Got anymore stupid things to say?

[@thedrmurchindise]

I wish Elmax got a longer time in the spotlight. But in terms of the average user S30V is more than most people will ever need.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

ZT ruined Elmax reputation due to soft heat treatments and burnt edges.

[@thedrmurchindise]

@tacticalcenter8658 I only had a burnt edge. But like all other niche hobbies(golf, archery, fishing, etc) everyone needs the new hotness and the first gen of everything comes with problems. *looks at cybertruck*

[@DeerUNIT42]

Happier with my 154cm than my s90v user knives

[@tacticalcenter8658]

I'm surprised anyone would say that. S90v is usually really easy to sharpen from 59 to 63rc.

[@DeerUNIT42]

@@tacticalcenter8658 my PM2 in S90v was chippy and edge rolled easy. Probably a great slicer but didn't hold up well heavy use.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

I generally prefer something that is easy to maintain. Really high hardness, high wear resistance steels can be good niche applications but for general use stuff like aus8-a is just where its at.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

High hardness is often easier to sharpen due to reduced austenite. When you have an abundance of austenite, it's too gummy to sharpen. Usually happens with a poorly chosen protocol or process often seen at lower hardnesses.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Steels like maxamet are hard to sharpen due to a lot of really hard carbdides... Not the hardness of the steel itself.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

@tacticalcenter8658 Yes and no. No, in that generally what people mean (me included) by easy to sharpen is low abrasion resistance. But yes, low hardness steels can also be gummy and hard to form edges on if they are poorly made.

[@donjuanmckenzie4897]

@tacticalcenter8658 thats what makes it hard to sharpen lol. The carbides are part of the steel my dude its what makes it maxamet, its an alloy

[@SkunkPunch73]

It is a very valid point the community has gone a bit mad for the super steels that are out there which I have found odd only because 98% of them that are so passionate about the new steels spend more time out of all of use in the knife community cutting up cardboard and paper. Then again if that’s what floats your boat then have at it and happy collecting ( just remember that part when you’re stuck on the sharpening table lol🫵🏻😘👍🏼