My new favorite CHEAP Harbor Freight tool!

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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
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[@StumpyNubs]

▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ ISOtunes Bluetooth hearing protection (Save 10% when you use this link, or the discount code: STUMPY) bit.ly/3BHYdH7 *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@Lawrence330]

Your Isotunes model should get an eyepro sponsor. 😂

[@Farm_fab]

Placing a nut on a bolt before cutting make a thread chaser, and makes for a saw guide when cutting. In some occasions, it may be necessary to double nut them with either a standard nut, or a thinner jam nut. This helps to prevent the nut from turning as the saw cuts the bolt.

[@hartvanmeter214]

Awesome improvement to the Harbor Freight tool. The flat clamping bar should have a rounded edge to accommodate the minimum bend radius of the sheet metal being bent. This will avoid having stress cracking on the outside of each bend. Aluminum is particularly susceptible to this stress. The bar could actually be ground with four different radii, one on each edge to accommodate a larger variety of metal thickness. The bend radius should be stamped into the bar to indicate which one was positioned against the workpiece.

[@blueberrychronic]

There's something much more simple. Both edges are beveled one more than the other, this accommodates anything. Although depending on what kind of finish you want on the inside of your bend a rounded adge could be used too

[@georgewelker853]

The radios you’re talking about is automatic and more associated with the setback of the top part of the break and even if you have a beautiful radius and your setback too aggressive it’s going to wreck your work. As you get to the press breaks and such it’s more important but the level of force involved here that inside radius will be what it will.

[@Cecil_X]

I bought one of those benders back in 1980 or 1981. It is not a high use tool for me, but it has saved me a few times. In fact this past spring, I picked up some of that copper coated aluminum and used it for a project. I will make your mod, because it will save me some time and the use of my magic words 🙂

[@supergimp2000]

Love this. Nothing like getting 60-70% there from HF and making it 100% yourself.

[@skwalka6372]

Yes, but in so doing you are supporting a company that has nothing but contempt for quality.

[@jethropebs]

@@skwalka6372 I wouldn't think they have contempt for quality as they're giving the core of their customers exactly the price points that they want/need and most simply need to get a specific job or task completed. I'm fortunate in that I can afford to buy some of the best quality prosumer tools available which I do sometimes, but not relying on making a living using tools I will regularly buy certain things from HF as needed to do a specific project. MOST companies have the ability to carry the best, but the masses cannot afford nor support that. HF power tools are offered in several tiers of quality, e.g. Bauer, Hercules, Warrior, Chicago Electric, etc. If you compare their very best brand (I believe it's Bauer) with products such as DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc, and numerous tests are out there that have done this, you'll find they run either neck in neck or super close. Just saying.

[@skwalka6372]

@@jethropebs From an economics viewpoint you are 100% correct, my point is more philosophical than anything =)

[@jethropebs]

@@skwalka6372 I agree with you on that point as well ;) Hey, I used to be a brand name tool snob but realized many yrs ago that there are "X" amount of Asian factories that are the prime producers of MOST brands of tools including private label (i.e. Craftsman, Kobalt, Ridgid, Eastwood, Matco, Snap-on, etc, etc). In the end it comes down to specs and features, colors and logos. A good pal of mine game me a cheap, $39. Craftsman cordless drill in a smaller form factor. That little thing is a workhorse and keeps on going! I use it alongside of my Makitas, one with a drill bit, one with a counter bit, one with a driver.

[@caseyrevoir]

Grab a green cutting mat at the dollar store to glue onto that base. Then you would have a labeled measuring grid too. Great work!

[@revtmyers1]

I had to laugh because I have had one of those for 7 years now and only used it a couple of times because of it being a pain. Like the fixture you created for it.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

That's a really good idea James ! Thanks for sharing with us. Stay safe and keep up the fun too. Fred.

[@d.l.9453]

Absolutely love this! I have a couple projects for next year and this looks like a great modification for an economical brake.

[@ssskids123]

Thank you! I have this one and have added this project to my build list…it will make it soooooo much easier/better to use!

[@rjtumble]

What a nice little project, thanks. I've always thought a brake would be a cool tool to have around, but didn't think I'd use it enough to justify the expense. This makes that decision a little easier.

[@bricofleur1768]

This a great, unique and now indispensable improvement. Thank you so much for sharing this particular one. Best, Serge

[@aaronp1434]

As someone who works with sheet metal, I agree that this is an upgrade to the HF bender, good enough for a home DIY project here and there but anything more would be better served with a higher grade sheet metal break

[@austinturney9528]

Good video with good ideas. Clever improvements to cheap Harbor Freight tools that many of us have (including me that exact model) is a very useful short video topic area. Do morelike this if they come up.

[@mikehodges6598]

I have this same metal brake from HF and had the same frustration with it. Thank you for showing a way to make it useable.

[@sapelesteve]

Excellent video SN! I don't work with metals but if I did, I would definitely be making one of those rigs! 👍👍

[@junkredo2518]

I bought this bender and threw it in a corner of my shop in frustration a year ago. I’m going to dig it out and fix it now, thank you!

[@fleurdelune5240]

You made a "Cool Tool"! Thank you for the idea. The stairway project looks lovely and will look good when the copper ages. Thanks for sharing. ❤

[@jackthompson5092]

I enjoyed watching you describe your modifications to the inexpensive sheet metal break.

[@buzzmooney2801]

I'm an HVAC Installer; I've installed hundreds of miles of duct, built or rebuilt huge numbers of fittings, and operated brakes ranging from small benchtops, to a 19-ton hydraulic press brake. Imagine my surprise, when I see that your WOODWORKING channel is showing a video on a SHEET METAL tool; one which is sitting in my shop, right now. Ine which I rarely use, for the same reasons you give: Mainly that top jaw that has to be reset and reclamped for EVERY bend! My only question is how did you secure the lever handles? Mine simply slide in/fall out. Set screws? Anyway, it was a pleasant surprise to see you tackle the exact same tool that so disappointed me! Now I have to bookmark this video, so I can make my HF cheapobrake usable!

[@markglabinski3016]

Amazing mods to that tool! Made it 100% better. Thank you.

[@mikecurtin9831]

A great tip. Thanks very much. The copper on the the stairwell is not something I'd have thought to do, but it looks very nice.

[@watermain48]

Great video James. Thanks for sharing.

[@user-qg6fy4yp8t]

Very creative improvement !!! Looking forward to the copper project!!!

[@stuartkorte1642]

Wow great idea. I have this same brake sitting in its box because I have Draco brake. Seeing this I’m going to do the same and use for thin material. Thanks.

[@timberrecycling]

very clever! would love to see more videos of projects like this

[@norm5785]

HF tools are pretty handy thank you for sharing this with us today stay safe happy and healthy from Henrico County Virginia

[@walterbordett2023]

great project. I would like to see more shop tool upgrade videos. Thanks James..

[@wolfman75]

Thanks For The Great Info!!!!!

[@MCsCreations]

Beautiful staircase, James! 😃 The modifications you made were brilliant! Thanks for the tips! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@TheWebbRanch]

Beautiful. Just what I needed.

[@design8studio]

Great video. Very helpful.

[@brianfuller4071]

All of my years working on cars and electronics I constantly find myself "building tools" to repair something that I don't have a tool to repair!! In fact today I was hanging out with a friend who was working on the rear brakes of a 2012 Dodge Caravan, when he realized the rear calipers have "twist in" brake pistons!! He attempted to use the tool that most mechanics are given to repair them, BUT as he struggled to get the tool to work....and failed, he thought "There has to be a better way!"!! Within about 45 minutes and some simple welding and metal fabrication, he designed, and built a tool, that did the task he needed done with a few extra bolts, some welding and grinding!! Sometimes tools that you need for one job simply DO NOT EXIST is my point!! And some engineers are never taught how to build, assemble and even repair things!! Even though they can "engineer" an item at manufacturing, they never consider what happens if you need to "take it back apart" or you need to repair something related to it indirectly causing the problem!! And I still laugh when I remember a stand up comedy bit Tim Allen did in his early days as a comedian when he said "I have tools to fix tools!"......which sadly never a truer statement has ever been said!! And it seems anymore you need more tools to make more tools in this day and age!!!

[@Suicaedere666]

Incredible video Stumpy and crew🙌💥🙌 hey Stumpy, I love your hacksaw😝😄

[@54mgtf22]

Love your work 👍

[@howardappel3596]

Also, love your idea. One suggestion -- allow for an adjustable fence that is adjustable in the angle to the bar. This would allow for angled bends.

[@joewhitney4097]

Great video, I have this same inexpensive bender and been wondering how I can make it portable and mounted so I can set it aside when I am not using it. This is the perfect answer. Thanks for sharing.

[@MJCPeters]

Oh wow! This is perfect! I knew I was keeping that, less than useful, brake all these years for some reason.

[@jasm817]

Very cool idea..💡 perfect for making the pieces you needed in a more productive way. Inspiring.. 👊😏 Your project on the staircase is very creative too. Maybe, encase the metal in polycarbonate sheets with air tight seal of clear silicone. Or just don't worry about it and deal with the patina over time.

[@aceroadholder2185]

I bought the same tool from HF. I purchased the smallest one so it would be easier to stow away. I also made a spring arrangement, so the clamping bar is released when the wing nuts are backed off. It is mentioned in the comments that it is difficult to fold a box. Large bending brakes have removable fingers to get around the interference of the already folded edges. I got around this problem by using a length of Aluminum angle for the hold-down bar. The angle is mounted with the ears pointed down and the rounded edges of the angle milled so the angle sits flat on the platen and thus gives a sharp bend. The trick then is to saw slots in the Aluminum to allow the ears of the already folded ears to pass through the clamping bar. If you do a lot of bending jobs and the Aluminum clamping bars is getting too many slots cut in it, another can be made in a few minutes. Better yet, make 2 or 3 bars at one time out of the 3ft piece of Aluminum angle you bought at the hardware store.

[@MAACotton]

You just HAD to show me copper risers. Non copper risers have been rendered obsolete

[@dsdragoon]

This is a great project!

[@arbjful]

Wow…That staircase looks awesome with the copper backing

[@dnngskn62]

This is very well thought out. Will have to barrow this one.

[@gabrieleg6384]

Mr James thanks again for sharing your clever ideas! Your comprehension method of little, practical issues, should be tough in the schools. I love your personal problem solving method. Which way did you glued the metal foils in place? Thanks again!

[@Bob_H]

Well done!

[@johndough8115]

I would think that it would be best to apply a clear poly top-coat on the Copper, to prevent corrosion. It would also help prevent nicks, dents, and scratches... especially if its applied thick enough. This might be more critical, if people are wearing shoes in the house. Copper is quite soft, and can scratch and dent quite easily. And any liquids / moisture spattered on to it, could cause spots of corrosion.

[@StumpyNubs]

I want it to naturally patina

[@johndough8115]

@@StumpyNubs It might develop very uneven, naturally (unless it was outdoors). Also, indoors, it might take a good +15 yrs, to show significant signs of change. I believe a lot of Copper changes, are caused either getting wet, and of by Acids and Oils, such as a copper pan or Kettle, getting touched by human hands. As such, you might want to try a product (or method) of creating the desired level of Patina... and then locking it with spray, to prevent it from further degradation. Im not a copper expert, so maybe im incorrect in assuming the speed of tarnished corrosion.

[@hardnox6655]

@@johndough8115 Liquid Ammonium nitrate (plant food) works good when applied with a spray bottle then lock the patina with Odie's Oil, then a coat of wax. I built a copper range hood for a client years ago and it still looks great today.

[@SeanBZA]

@@StumpyNubs Better to give it that patina with a cleaning, then a coat of linseed oil, allow to cure, then apply a light stain, followed by more oil. Or just use some satin varnish as first coat, and then sponge on a light stain, then finish with 2 coats of heavy duty satin varnish, which will give the patina look but still be durable. Over time wear will create the shiny spots you need, and you can then leave it.

[@williamdavis4542]

I have that H/F bending brake and it is a PITA. It is hard to carry without getting pinched or dropping the clamping bar. Also the levers just drop in and can fall out. I will add some setscrews to fix that. I will make this mod. It reduces the 18" width quite a bit, but I have yet to need the full width. If I do, I can just take it apart for that job. Thanks for the ideas!

[@coreygrua3271]

GOOD ideas and philosophy, as usual.

[@worstworkshop]

Great project.

[@garyhome7101]

Nice! While not quite the same as this mod, I bought several different length aluminum bar clamps from Harbor Freight - the bars are actually cheap notched rectangular aluminum tubes that won't take a whole lot of torque before bending out of shape, but they were really inexpensive! Anyway, the space within the tubes is about 3/4 of an inch, so I cut some 3/4" plywood strips from off-cuts I had laying around the shop, and inserted them into the tubes all the way to the head of the clamp, and presto! Solid clamps that don't twist and bend under torque/pressure! These clamps get a lot of duty in my shop now with all sorts of projects, and each costing well below $10 each, and range in size from 12" to 36". But I do have to mention this idea came from Paul Sellers who did something very similar!

[@lounackman6104]

Did the same thing!

[@slingerssecretlaboratory]

Yes. I had one of these years ago and found quite useless as sold. Definitely made useful with these modifications

[@Yawles]

I am glad you're encouraging us to ineffective store-bought tools, and put good old American genius to work to modify those tools. I can remember believing store-bought tools should never be altered because we paid good money for them - so we, the users, maybe aren't skilled in operating them correctly.

[@siukcnc]

You can improve it further by swapping the flat bar for some angle, (taking care when the mounting drilling holes), it increases the strength and improves bends across the entire width, as much as is possible on that type of bender.

[@SteveC38]

Nice Job!

[@dennismacwilliams196]

Great idea...

[@rpavlik1]

that sure makes that tool look a lot more usable and more like the big brakes!

[@thomasforthe9274]

Copper will corrode unless you coat it. If you want to remove that step then use a product like copperbrite that is designed to resist tarnishing. Also your fingerprints will tarnish very rapidly unless you were gloves....

[@johnlucier5654]

Lol bought one of these about 25 years ago cut the same slots in the hold down bar immediately. Anything thicker than the lightest material I just used a buttload of beefy clamps. Its not meant for professional use. I ended up later making my own 36" brake out of 3/16 steel angle, channel and flat, with a sick huge piano hinge. I think ended up drilling and countersinking holes for about 160 10-32 machine screws to assemble it, which was so tedius I designed and made a foot operated cutting fluid pump to mount to my milwaukee magnum drill I used to drill them. It would bend anything.

[@TedSchoenling]

if you want to speed up the tarnish over time a solution of vinegar salt and hydrogen peroxide can be spritzed on the copper left a few minutes then wiped off and you get a nice patina

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Cool video. Great if you’re not using it much. I’m always perplexed when someone has a regular brake instead of a finger brake. I’ve never needed a brake that isn’t a finger brake and the cost wasn’t enough to make it worth compromising. The real battle is choosing the size. Too big and it’s a boat anchor that you never move or too small and you’re unable to make what you want.

[@BigMikeECV]

Well, that's it! No more bending sheet metal between two pieces of angle iron clamped into a bench vise and aligned by feel. 😂

[@howardappel3596]

You can lacquer the copper to help keep it from changing color.

[@ericwilliams538]

Some times you simply just have to go with Harbor Freight products and make the best of it. Until you can either afford, find, or what ever your particular situation may be.

[@waltersvg]

I just clicked on the woodworking video category provided by KZbin and not a single Stumpy nubs video showed up in the results.

[@sinisterhipp0]

Hang on 13:12 junior hacksaw blade in locking pliers!?! Genius.

[@profcah]

Damn! That is all I can say: Damn! Awesome build!

[@kurtandlazanneilander724]

I bought the same HF bender and it was easily the most disappointing tool I've ever gotten there. I came up with the springs and wingnuts idea independently because that c-clamp thing is annoying. I'll definitely be upgrading with your plywood base idea though! Brilliant addition! The other thing that drives me nuts that you didn't address is how they made the handles slot in instead of thread in. Which means they fall out constantly (when you can even find them). Next step is to tap the holes and do my own handles. Of course at some point, after about the 65th modification, you've got to wonder "is this worth it, or should I have just started from scratch"? ;)

[@nonprogrediestregredi1711]

That staircase is beautiful but if it is a primary staircase, it seems the copper is at a high risk of being dented or scuffed.

[@yootoob7048]

One man's tarnish is another man's patina.

[@Zambonick]

I own this tool and found these mods interesting, basically converting it to a mini press brake. However it's worth pointing out that while the mods are super effective for the type of application shown (repeated series bends), they do limit the versatility of this brake in two important ways: 1) Adding the sprung pins reduces the width of material you can work in the brake by what looks like about 3", taking it down to a 15" brake (or 21" if you buy the 24" version). Those 3" can really make a difference at these small sizes. 2) The pins also make it impossible to use the brake to form corners, whereas the stock configuration is capable of this due to the nose being about 1/8" narrower than the throat (that is in fact the reason I bought it in the first place). It's a great mod though and due to the nature of the tool still a good idea. The 16ga. rating is a huge joke -- I doubt it can even bend a 1" stip of 16 without deforming and wouldn't put anything over 22ga in it at full width. So for #1, maybe it's not that big a deal since you can only /really/ use this 18" brake on say 12" wide stock. And as for #2...at the price point of this tool, what the heck, just buy a second one if you really want to bend corners! P.S. If you've already got the wingnuts then okay...but if you're buying hardware for this mod, do yourself a favor and buy actual knobs for the nose and hold-down bars. Wingnuts are a cuss to use repeatedly.

[@stephanholland6181]

Given the added cost of modifying the metal brake parts during manufacture to incorporate your changes, it makes me wonder why this wasn't done as part of the manufacturer's design. As one of the other commenters said: Harbor Freight often has 70 percent if something good that needs to be reworked to make it 100 percent usable.

[@kenbrown2808]

the big question is are you going to embrace the patina or keep it shiny bright?

[@pattyofurniture100]

Sometimes I wish I documented all the different ways I use pantorouter ... no, it's not a cheap tool by any means but MY GOD the number of times I've been able to use it to save my skin in a manner it was never intended to be used!

[@randywalton9866]

Canes rule!!!🏒🥅

[@wcisean]

What about if you want to bend 4 sides?

[@mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[@logannorton4571]

What are the odds that I have this exact tool sitting on the shelf because it was impossible to use! Not for long!

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video James 👍

[@blueberrychronic]

Cool except for the fact that it originally fit a work piece that's 30" wide and it now appears to accept no more than 27" And here I though mine was useless with a 30" limit

[@williamrogers2030]

Go Red Wings! 😁

[@ipick4fun27]

Wing nut is a pain. I am thinking a Destaco clamp (or a quick release clamp) may be better suited for the job (for metal bar). Problem is a pair of the quick release clamp may cost more than the bending brake. LOL.

[@Cecil_X]

Cam clamp with a barrel nut

[@brucelee3388]

You can get cam levers from a lot of online stores, the pivot comes threaded for 1/4" and 5/16" bolts. Much cheaper Destacos and quicker than wing nuts, but you may want some thin plastic washers between the cam and the bar.

[@StumpyNubs]

You need a very low profile clamp so it will not interfere with the hinge as you make the bend.

[@reasoningtruth]

Why not patina the copper to make it look better and easier to take care of?

[@dorhocyn3]

You need to get some of those oval hole drilling bits they sell at Horrible Fright, they’re so much faster. Just kidding, but the square hole cutting drillbits are pretty cool …. Ok I will stop

[@martinoamello3017]

Something else HF can be useful for is dirt cheap electric motors. Try buying just an electric motor and they're ungodly expensive, but you can buy a cheap HF tool, machine actually and strip out the motor for the price of the piece of HF machine, sometimes as low as $30..

[@TheProjectHelpDesk]

I love stuff from HF, but I don't think anything I have ever gotten from there was 100% perfect right out of the box. It always needs a small tweak, repair or improvement. But the price usually makes it worth it.

[@jasond4084]

I guess if this is your only paying job. Or, as long as time is NOT money. Seriously, spending hours figuring out how to make a “tool” function? If a tool needs to be altered substantially to make it functional then it’s probably not actually a tool or certainly not worth it. If you have the skills to make something work then make it from scratch or, hear me out, buy a proper tool with the money you make from using your actual skills.

[@TheProjectHelpDesk]

@@jasond4084 I totally agree actually. We built a homebuilt CNC router on our channel and I made a comment on our video that If you are looking to build a CNC router to make a living then you are better off just buying a professional machine that comes with full support. For me, my tools are purely at a hobbyist level. So part of what I enjoy is 'perfecting' cheap junk and making it better. My wife and I joke that our hobby is 'Starting new hobbies'. Once everything is built and setup then we get bored :)

[@wadekirby8575]

You might want to clear coat the copper to keep it from tarnishing.

[@waltersvg]

Is it possible to make the file fit into a recipricating saw?

[@jethropebs]

@Tony Savage, I recently had a project for which I needed to file 24 round holes in 1/8" heavy steel strap hinges to accept a carrage bolt, meaning each round hole needed to be made square. I thought of every efficient way in which to do this cheaply. In the end I bought a cheap $39. pneumatic air filer that comes with a flat needle file and that did about 75-80% of the work. I still had to complete each square hole and true them to shape by hand. What a hastle and expenditure of precious time!

[@J.A.Smith2397]

You my boy blue(you know where that's from STUMPY??)

[@0ddSavant]

8 hours?! It took me eight hours to notice your new video. *Sigh* I’m sorry. I won’t make excuses, but I’ll try to keep it from happening again. Have some engagement as compensation. Cheers!

[@ronniemurphy2124]

You might try paste waxing the copper to keep it looking new.

[@johndough8115]

Wax is easily moved with very mild contact pressure... and as such, I recommend spraying a clear Poly coat on it. If peoples shoes / toes smash into the copper... and or the copper gets wet, it will get scratched and or start to corrode. While these are vertical, and it doesnt matter as much... I used to have to clean Pinball machines in a busy arcade. If you didnt clean and wax them every week... the surface would be covered in a visible dark, dirty, layer of filth (likely a combination of Carbon soot, micro-metal dust from collisions, micro-plastic dust, and standard air floating dust... all mixed with and driven into the wax). Well, one day I decided to try a produce called F21 (formula 21), which contains Urethane in it. Its meant as a car product, to clean, shine, and protect surfaces... The playfield shined much Glossier, and the ball speed was vastly increased, due to the surface being much smoother and slicker. After 2 weeks time... of +12 hrs days of use... the playfield still looked like New. Almost no visible crud, after a full month of use. Furthermore... I no longer needed to take the machines apart... as the coating didnt trap and mix with any dust/dirt. I merely wiped the center of the field down, and all was good. With wax... the ball would pick up the dirty wax.. and spread it all over the place: Under hard to reach areas, into the tunnels, and into cracks and crevices of various parts, such as the decorative Translucent Posts. The dirty wax would thus, not only be visible on the field... but also, on things like the Drop Targets, steel ball rails, and plastic Ramps. Furthermore.. the wax trapping the gunk... would eventually cause the gunk to grind its way into the playfield, destroying the surface painted details... if it was not cleaned off quickly enough. One might wonder, if the field was adequately protected enough from the balls destructive friction? After a year of nonstop use... there was no further damages to the playfield or the surfaced of the various parts. And being that it used to take me a good 2 to 3 hours to fully clean and wax a pinball machine, every week (and I had three of them in that arcade)... I learned to strongly Detest wax, with a Passion.

[@danielbackley9301]

@@johndough8115 Definitely need nto put a coating on copper it will turm brown within months even if its in a package any air contact leads to discoloration.

[@ronniemurphy2124]

@@johndough8115 A faster ball means more money. Great ideas! TY

[@johndough8115]

@@ronniemurphy2124 The machines looking like New, and playing like New... is actually what made them earn more. You see, a brand new machine will be perfectly glossy and fast... but over use and time, the surface of a pinball machine gets micro scratches, and even many visible scratches... and these cause the ball speed to be much slower than the originally designed and intended play-speed. I once had a machine that was so surface damaged, that the ball was at least a third slower than it should have been. Of course, when the machine looks like a dirty mess... its less attractive, and gives the person the perception that its likely broken, and not well taken care of... which often caused people to walk away without playing it. Once you have played a machine that look like new, works perfectly, and plays lightning fast... you become addicted to the adrenalin rush... and you end up playing several games in a row... rather than once and done. I probably tripled income, merely by using F21. I also saved myself over 12hrs of labor every month... as cleaning them was a fraction of the time and effort.

[@ronniemurphy2124]

@@johndough8115 I guess I'm not normal, I'm a sigma is why. I see it as the machine mostly played would be the good one and that is what I would go to.

[@asdlfk3]

I wonder if the copper will become dented from toe kicks. It does look great.

[@StumpyNubs]

There is no gap between the sheet of copper and the substrate. There is really no room for it to dent.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@BTW... In my experience, 1/2-inch plywood doesn't dent that "easily", especially as a riser on a step.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍

[@truckguy6666]

My feeling is that the copper is going to be a bear to keep nice. Any fingerprints on it will ruin the polish. Outside its great and gets a nice earthy toned patina which is pretty classic looking. The first few weeks after installing copper sheet metal it looks TERRIBLE. Not trying to be a debby downer, just posting my thoughts of whats to come. Cant wait to see, maybe Im wrong, its happened before!

[@havabeer1]

all these comments and no one is going to mention what is going on with that driver bit at 5:10 ?

[@StumpyNubs]

What's wrong with it?

[@havabeer1]

@@StumpyNubs its so long and has a +50 kill streak gold skin.

[@sween187]

A plywood plateau

[@lacheeky123]

More hacked gear videos!!!!

[@steveholman5978]

Where in the Hell do you find room to store all those jigs you make?

[@StumpyNubs]

Not all need to be saved. Those that do can always be stored somewhere. Hang them from the ceiling.

[@samdoucette3200]

Anyone else see what I saw at 3:13 ?

[@truckguy6666]

I rewatched it many times. Not seeing anything out of the ordinary. Can we get a hint?

[@bohaggin5913]

@@truckguy6666 hacksaw blade in the vise grips

[@mplussant]

…sell these modified hack assys on your site…a game changer for us lazyies who only want the instant utility…