Do this to plywood- STRONGER and BETTER looking!

[@StumpyNubs]

▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ - Edge Banding Clamps: lddy.no/1i1c7 (Select 10pk for the lowest price) ★TAYLOR TOOLWORKS IS A SMALL FAMILY BUSINESS WORTH SUPPORTING★ They are also supporters of this channel who help keep our videos free. Please support them AND us by *bookmarking and using this link whenever you buy tools:* lddy.no/s80f *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@robertwillis3123]

Stumpy, how can I send you $5? I just want to say thank you for all that you do and don't know the best way to do it! I've seen some KZbin channels with an option enabled to donate when liking a video. I can't remember the term but you should look into that option on here! I know it's only $5 but I just want to show some appreciation for everything you've taught me!

[@jrb_sland]

Aging [75] Canadian man here. Interesting! Love the cIamps! I discovered an edge banding trick in 1963 while constructing a furniture piece in high school woodworking class. I started with a part sheet of expensive 3/4" oak veneer plywood. I had adjusted the design dimensions of my little side-table with drawer to ensure that I'd have enough scraps of plywood that I could glue the veneer side of the scraps to the plywood edges that would otherwise be visible in the final table. Before final assembly, I did your 1/8" wider trick to rip edge veneer strips with lots of excess to be removed later. Planing & sanding the glued-on upside-down veneer was tricky because the veneer layer was very thin, but patience is a virtue. My instructor gave me top marks for the final result. That was also my first time using classical stain & filler & 'modern' polyurethane varnish to finish the wood. I still have that little table beside my recliner in my living room. Sixty years ago! How time flies!

[@richardwallace2458]

Great story!

[@LewHarriman]

I especially appreciate that great tip for a simple and reliable way to get a threaded insert into wood *straight*!! Thanks.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I do this with a large flush trim bit in my router table. Works great and the bearing on the bit makes it easy to set up. I have never had any problem with this set up.

[@keithf5236]

i wonder why he doesn't mention that at all in the video. Surely it would be far easier to flush trim vs the setup with a jig and such.

[@johndoe6032]

@@keithf5236 I wonder if it's because it may be harder to use a flush trim bit with a tall panel like that. Also, this method may appeal to a wider audience as most people have a table saw, but may not have a router table setup and good flush trim bits.

[@StumpyNubs]

I didn't mention it because this video is about a different method. Flush trim bits come with their own sets of challenges. Some may prefer those, others this.

[@dragonlotion1789]

Too much tear out imo.

[@StumpyNubs]

What tear-out?

[@kaasmeester5903]

So nice to see a craftsman who knows what he’s about… and who is able to explain not just the how, but also the why.

[@112doc]

When applying glue to plywood edge apply once, wait and apply again to allow the wood to absorb the moisture. Gives a better bond.

[@danharold3087]

I have built a lot of utility shelves gluing solid wood to plywood and other sheet goods. One can make the wood a bit taller to prevent objects from falling off the shelves and significantly stiffen by going an inch or more below the plywood. All it takes a dado and rounding over the corners.

[@c.blakerockhart1128]

Nice.😎

[@HelloDolly-k8z]

Boat carpenters call these fiddles. They put them around tables so the plates don't slide off when the boat heels.

[@dudegpo1YT]

I work as a cabinet maker and for every job with shelves we use ply for shelves with a 10mm thick lipping then just belt sand it flush. Easy and fast

[@michaelogden5958]

I've started making Taylor Tools my first (virtual) stop when looking for shop stuff. I like the idea of helping support a US, family-run business. Disclaimer: Taylor Tools has no idea I even exist - other than being a customer.

[@robertrisk93]

Thanks Stumpy Nubs. At 6:20 you said to put the "CONCAVE" side of the jig against the fence. I believe you meant the "CONVEX" side, so that when you tighten both ends, the plywood jig will straighten.

[@StumpyNubs]

I misspoke. I meant convex toward the fence.

[@stevenmarston8923]

Convex side should go against the fence. That way when you tighten the board against the fence, you actually have 3 points of contact with the middle of the convex being held firmly against the fence. If it were the other way around, i.e., you would then need that third clamp (at the apex of the concave shape) to make certain you've pulled the board flat against the fence . As Stumby Nubs has already stated, he mispoke in the video.

[@williambranham6249]

A good editor is hard to find. It seems some of your viewers pay attention so you don’t have to hire an editor.

[@wdtaut5650]

6:27 Seems like putting the _convex_ side against the fence would give a better chance of pulling the ends to make it flat.

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, I said it backwards.

[@robertbankhead8661]

Dang it, just glued up 4 shelves, this is such a great way to do this!!!! Also your videos are called money videos because it costs me every time!!!! Thanks James

[@ВсеволодПан-к8л]

It can be done with a a hand plane too. Thank you for the idea of making plywood stronger.

[@adama1294]

Bookshelves requires tons of strength and the best video I saw to strengthen the shelf is to route or table saw a dado 1/8" thick on 2 pieces of plywood and glue them together with a strip of mild steel in the grove. You get a super strong shelf but it looks 100% wood.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

So good I watched it a 2nd time as a refresher. Thanks for putting this together in the humble, well-paced straight to the point presentation style that keeps me coming back (sometimes twice for the same video). Thanks James for your commitment to making us better makers.

[@Stonky77]

I made my own bandy clamps using 1 inch spring clamps and a bicycle tube. Comes out to a little over a dollar each.

[@archangelcharlie]

I like that you don’t frown on cheaper solid wood alternatives like plywood. You’re not elitist and it keeps your channel accessible and open to folks with less resources. Thank you!

[@mightyconker3903]

Cheap and plywood should not be used in the same sentence post 2020

[@constantinosschinas4503]

Not sure plywood is cheaper than the analogous solid wood. More like FAR more expensive, especially baltic birch is sky level, has surpassed the african okume plywood which used to be the expensive option in my country.

[@brianw49]

If I’m in the field using this method a lot of times I’ll glue the solid wood edge then use the 23 gauge nailer and stagger the pins at slightly different angles, but most of the time clamps are king 👑

[@Guile2332]

Brother, each time i watch a video-its one step closer to woodworking perfection. Thank you.

[@MacDa-yy8xn]

I do this basically the same way except I like to glue a much thicker piece to the edge that I can clamp with pipe clamps. Once it’s dry I cut it down to the thickness I want. But when it comes to cutting off the excess banding I change out my saw blade to a very thin skill saw blade so that I don’t waste so much wood. I love this method.

[@bradnail99]

If the fence plywood is curved, seems to me you want the conVEX side towards the metal saw fence so the two clamps pull it straight. If you put the conCAVE side towards the saw fence you’d want the clamps in the center to straighten the bow.

[@StumpyNubs]

I misspoke

[@lafamillecarrington]

Perhaps using three clamps would solve the problem!

[@robbailey5692]

I have used a fence attachment that i screw to the side of my fence. But the flush trimming technique is identical. It's fast and super easy and great for a variety of panel sizes I actually use 1/4" strips that are if the species that my plywood is made from or the veneer attached to the Baltic birch plywood panel. What i use for strips are pieces that are ripped from an unplaned plank, jointing the edge, bandsawing a strip, jointing, band sawing, and so on until I have sufficient 1/4" strips. These are then put through a thickness planer to smooth both sides. What is left is a slightly wider strip, unfinished on each edge. I have a fixture that accounts for 1/2 the extra width of the banding and slippage is constrained. Once the glue is dried, trimming the rough, unplaned edge gets rid of all the sawmill marks, leaving a very nice edge band. Love the video, very practical and useful.

[@ParaBellum2024]

Excellent! I like to edge plywood, but usually employ Heath-Robinson methods (e.g., wedging with clothes peg halves) when glueing up. Those edge banding clamps are genius.

[@NextLevelCraftworks]

The threaded insert tip trick is awesome! thanks for sharing

[@weshenson5338]

I agree with you approach of thicker edge banding. I dont like that jig. Seems like a lot could go wrong. I like to use a router with a large bit - i think it is called a bowl carving bit. I put the router in a plywood jig to go over the board and set the bit depth to just be flush with the base of the jig. The curved edge of the bit prevents tearout and gouging. It works great

[@jimrosson6702]

As always great tips showing different ways to do things for different people. Love Taylor Tools.have been buying things from them since I started watching your videos a couple years ago thanks for sharing as always. When are you going to do another episode of Cool tool ?

[@garymiller5937]

Cool idea Stumpy! And relatively easy too. Thank you. 😊😊😊

[@poppamichael2197]

Using the table saw jig to flush trim edging is a great idea, particularly when there's lots of edging to do, as in making an armoire or bookcase. However, in my opinion, the feather board should always be used. My favorite method of flush trimming edging, particularly for smaller jobs, is to use a 1/2 " flat faced router bit, of the type that would be used to mortise a hinge. The router itself (a small, 1/4" trim router works well) should be mounted on an accessory base so that the face of the router bit cuts only the trim piece. The accessory base of the router rides on the face of the plywood that is being edged. However, whatever power tool is used (table saw or router), the goal should NOT be to cut the trim flush with plywood. Instead, the edge trimming material should be left very slightly proud, about 1/64 of an inch, so it can then be trimmed perfectly flush with a card scraper and sanded smooth for an almost invisible seam.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks for sharing James. Great ideas for using hardwood facing on cabinet shelves, used that years ago and no sagging on any of the shelves. Thanks for the sharing of the jig for sawing the facing and sides too. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos. Fred.

[@billparrish4385]

Great tips for making an easy and successful edge from natural wood! I have used similar techniques, with great success. I also cut end grain to glue to the ends of the plywood, to make it look more like a real board. Plywood surface veneer itself will not look like a real board (unless you do some artistic things with brushes, different stains and paints). But those ends pop with end grain banding!

[@matttanglewood2522]

Sneaky. I like that idea.

[@rayleblanc7209]

I built an adjustable router jig for for trimming thick edge band. Setting the router on it's side and using a flush trim bit I can quickly run a board on it's flat. The bearing along with push downs I made from skate board wheels on the in feed and out feed keeps any slightly bowed board completely flat. Like your table saw jig, there is a space between the feed table and the fence for under extending banding to pass. Unlike your table saw jig, I can pass very long and large panels.

[@kenjackson1666]

Thanks - great video. I have "sized" raw plywood edges with thinned PVA glue. Left things so that the glue does not completely dry - then coat with unthinned PVA - then clamp banding as usual. This has never failed me. When it's time to trim, I use a Virutex trimmer (kind of a small power plane - forget the model) - super fast and completely flush finish - yes, it was expensive, but it just saves so much time !! Love your videos - greetings from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada - Ken.

[@Critter145]

Of course Tay Tools makes good edge clamps. I have yet to have a problem with anything I've purchased from them.

[@MCsCreations]

Excellent tips, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@radiationroom]

Love that Harvey saw. Wonderful product placement.

[@universalron]

This info was perfect for me. Thanks buying the clamps today. Making the jig soon.

[@katherynlamarche7308]

Thanks again for your ideas. I always learn something to make my shop time more productive. Julien.

[@mattridout2403]

Mike Taylor's jig is great but I used YOUR L fence to flush trim hundreds of feet of edge banding for my kitchen. That worked great too!

[@emm_arr]

Another great video. A very interesting jig.

[@MrEyesof9]

I'm surprised to find no mention of the Collins Plywood Prep Router Bit, it can definitely make taping a solid wood edge (in conjunction with a biscuit ever 6 - 8") a viable and quite professional option. I wouldn't do this type of glue-up without one. Seems it would be FANTASTIC with the rubber band clamps used here.

[@chrissscottt]

Some great tips, thanks. You must have an enormous storage area somewhere for all your specialist tools and jigs.

[@johnnyb95678]

Thank you for sharing a better way for edge banding. Can't wait to try it. Thank you!

[@BAGUBAou812]

Using a table saw to flush trim gives me ideas for other projects but for this, I think I would prefer to plane it out for a smoother edge. Thanks for the idea/ concept.

[@AB-nu5we]

This is a great tip. The last set of these I did I used maple for the thicker edge banding as I wanted support for the plywood shelves. And, I do shop at Taylor tools, another good tip. I didn't have the jig, I need to make one of those. Good stuff as always.

[@ro_yo_mi]

Poplar and Maple might not work in the real world, but on video, it was a great way to emphasize your point by showing a distinction between the two boards.

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, I wouldn't use poplar. It's not stiff enough to add strength.

[@miket2120]

I find that sprinkling a tiny bit of sand onto the glue after I lay it down really decreased the amount of creep when I clamp the wood down. The sand grains act like tiny claws digging into both surfaces of the wood, locking them together.

[@aussiemagik]

Or salt

[@kenerickson4923]

I love Taylor Tools. I just put another order in yesterday.

[@missmjl2468]

I'm a beginner. Your scrap wood is my good wood 😂

[@pakde8002]

Waiting for the glue to set up a bit will help with slipping. Cool clamps though. Folding one edge of the tape helps with removal so that's probably the best way to go if you're already catching flak from the missus about spending more money on the hobby that was supposed to save money by building your own furnishings 😅😅

[@johnkunze5362]

I like also making a router pattern on the edge...either a sawtooth or just t&g . Doubles the glue surface and forces alignment. 1.5 - 3x stronger too.jpk

[@jonathanbuzzard1376]

My favourite trick when applying a hardwood edge banding and I care about the look is to apply a veneer all over the top surface of the same species as the edge. It now looks like a solid piece of timber. Another trick is to cut short pieces off the end of the banding and glue them all together to get to attach to the ends to get "end grain". Then even at a second glance it looks solid.

[@DaileyWoodworks]

I use a similar jig set up on my router table with a flush trim bit. I have an auxiliary fence that sits about 1/2” above the bed. So the lip of the edge banding rides underneath and the veneer is riding against the bearing and the fence. With a feather board it works great. Great advice on the clamps. Tape definitely works but it can quickly become expensive going through a roll of tape on every big cabinet job

[@wiseoldfool]

I think Taylor Woodworks products would be very popular in Australia

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

What a great jig it’s a brilliant idea. And I have started buying from Taylor Toolworks his prices are great and shipping to Oz isn’t that bad.

[@calyodelphi124]

Hey Stumpy, I'm a bit late on this one, but I have a few planned projects where I would like to show off the edges of the plywood used to make them as an intentional aesthetic decision! Do you have any tutorial videos, or could you plan on making such a video, for getting the best visual results off of a bare plywood edge finish? I plan to use the good thin-ply maple-veneered stuff that can be found at Lowe's for (hopefully) best results. :)

[@bobfarrell6510]

Excellent video

[@rickhayhoe]

I'd put the convex face of the plywood against the fence, because the clamps toward the ends of the jig will pull those ends back and flatten the entire jig against the fence. If you have the convex face against the fence, you risk having some of the the bow remain in the jig with the ends clamped.

[@artswri]

Great idea, great jig. Very practical alternative to router table. Thanks a bunch!

[@petem6503]

BigBox carries screen molding, 1/4x3/4, pine, oak, poplar, just proud enough of nominal ply thickness to insure full coverage of the edge. The molding is rounded on the two exposed sides, and easily sanded flush with the plywood without burning off the beauty ply. In some cases, leaving the edge banding a bit proud on the upper surface of a shelf can provide a stop to prevent things from rolling off the shelf.

[@ProfessorDIY]

I love the look of exposed ply if it s good quality i.e no voids

[@rudispruell883]

Another great idea. I saw the vid when it came out, and am glad for the review. Gonna use it on a project now in the shop. Also, happy to echo your shout-out to TayTools! I look forward to their emails. Christmas catalog to a kid!

[@CaptRespect]

Aww man, I wish I saw that threaded insert trick before I did my router table. I ended up busting a couple of them because they were so brittle.

[@skippylippy547]

I love and support Taylor Toolworks!

[@JorgTheElder]

If you put the warped side against the fence and it is the middle that touches first so the ends can pulled flat by the clamps you show, that is the convex side. The motion you made with your hands was concave, but that would mean the clamps would NOT pull it flat. :)

[@olivier2553]

The Woodpecker has an interesting technique where he uses a triangular piece for edge banding. That means you have to route a corresponding triangle on your ply edge but you can get the appearance of a thin band while having the rigidity of a thicker one.

[@markhopkins7204]

Thanks for sharing..never miss your videos..no BS, easy to understand and apply to my projects and always works as explained..found these clamps and plan on acquiring..thanks again!

[@garydargan6]

Edge banding veneer is impossible to get where I am. I use fascia board which is slightly thicker than the ply wood I'm using. I rip it lengthwise into strips about 15mm wide and apply it to the edge. I can trim the overhang off with a trim router and if I want to get fancy two passes with a half round bit gives a nice decorative edge.

[@arbyars.chicksawdust]

A new twist to the L-Fence. I like it!

[@TremorBoria]

This is wild. I really dig that jig. 😊

[@KingLoopie1]

I like those clamps! Much faster for some things than wrapping it with a rubber band strip! Jig is cool too! 👍👍

[@EPaulIII]

At 6:30 you said to place the concave side of the plywood against the fence so it would be pulled flat. I think it would be better if the convex side was there. Paul A

[@tagquasar8791]

I am thinking about using a tension rod, just like you use in the neck of a guitar, to strengthen bookshelves. Or maybe not a tension rod but merely a metal rod embeded on the outer edge of the bookshelf.

[@StumpyNubs]

I've done it without tension. It definitely helps reduce sag

[@peglor]

This looks like a job that a router with a flush trim bit would do with a lot less setting up. The more wood you need to cut, the better the table saw option becomes though, as once it's set up it should allow much higher feed rates.

[@thomasemberson8021]

Thank you for your videos. It would be awesome to see how you handle banding on pre-finished plywood!

[@StumpyNubs]

band it the same way, then wipe on some poly.

[@thomasemberson8021]

@@StumpyNubs Sorry for the delay, my bad. I've yet to try using pre-finished plywood. But getting read to start a project using it. And just trying to figure out the dynamics of finishing the banding without effecting the pre-finish? This would be an awesome video! Again, many thanks

[@c.blakerockhart1128]

A lot of comments are about using a flush trim bit in a router. That is a completely different method and would be a completely different video. THIS video is about how to use a jig on the Table saw, NOT a router table. I use a Radial arm saw for my woodworking so THAT would Not only be a different video, THAT would be a totally different channel. Great video stumpy.

[@lafamillecarrington]

Definitely making this jig: although I'm not sure why you need to cut the head off the screw inserts.

[@jamesschryver3255]

a man of your ability and beautiful expensive planes just do it by hand

[@StumpyNubs]

I don't make videos for me, I make them for you.

[@bigredracingdog466]

One way to make narrow banding virtually "disappear" is to chamfer the edge. It also has the benefit of protecting that sharp edge from dings.

[@CorwinBos]

Nice clamps I need to pick some of those up!

[@johndoe6032]

This looks amazing, but at 4:39 when you pull the panel away from the cut it looks like there's some tearout in the veneer. Is that what happened and a possibility? Would it be enough of a reason to just leave a very small amount and finish with a sander or plane? Thanks again for all of the great tutorials and the heads-up on the band clamp set!

[@StumpyNubs]

That's not torn veneer, it's some glue that still remains and will have to be sanded a bit to completely remove.

[@jbravovideos]

Great video (Norm’s successor). It would be great if Taylor puts the components for the jig in a package. Also your center finder link no longer works. Thanks again!

[@robertberger8642]

Good video, thanks for making it!

[@randywood4782]

Thanks for information

[@htg41]

Stumpy, really need your help here (and sorry that this isn't that relevant to the video): What joint would you recommend for something that should hold at least 350kg (770lbs) without needing glue or metal parts, or that won't be attached to the ground (floor) in any way? I'm also fairly new to woodworking so the simpler joint the better (but of course willing to learn anything that would achieve this). The structure would be made out of 100x100 (4x4) wooden beams and be 125cm width and length, and a height of 220cm. There would also be three 100x100 (4x4) support beams on the ground level. I'd really appreciate some feedback from an experienced woodworker that really knows their stuff! :)

[@kennynyc1555]

Light glue on sides of MDF before Spray finishing paints will cover the MDF quicker then without glue edges because the MDF want to absorb the paint within itself , the glue fixes this problem

[@CilentLp]

I actually find the color contrast of the two different woods quite appealing

[@b.8972]

Hey I'm curious: Is that your Harvey table saw and do you enjoy it? I've never used one but they seem to have excellent products and beyond excellent engineering.

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes and yes. Lots of power, very solid, smooth operation, and innovative features

[@patmat.]

I don't have a table saw but I believe I could do the trimming with a router on a support board / aluminium ruller

[@nicholaskindred929]

That's a great idea !. Thank you

[@jbponzi1]

@StumpyNubs. Long time subscriber. First time question. First, great tips on edge band. My question is about the use of the Gluebot. I have one and want to love it. What I’m trying to figure out is how do you, and others too, get air back into the chamber? It needs some sort of vent in the lid to equalize the pressure. So far, I’ve needed to back off the lid to relax the seal and I’m not a fan of that. It really makes it a pain to make lengthy applications of glue. BTW, asking here as this is the only social media I will use. Thanks for sharing your time and talent.

[@StumpyNubs]

I've never had any issues. I just pick it up and squeeze. Never even thought about it.

[@jbponzi1]

@@StumpyNubs does your Gluebot have some sort of small vent pierced in the top of the lid. Always wondered if the one I have is faulty.

[@glencrandall7051]

Thanks, Stumpy. I just finished four cabinets that will require shelves. The shelves will be edge banded using the techniques and fixtures that you presented here. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂 PS, I'll be ordering the band clamps too.👌👌

[@donesry2902]

Thank you. That looks like a great jig idea. Question: why do you cut the heads off of the riser bolts? Why is it better to cut them off rather than leave them on?

[@StumpyNubs]

With no heads it is possible to lower it all the way down. You could then use the same tall fence panel for other purposes.

[@GrantOakes]

This could also be done with an L fence. Great idea as usual.

[@MakerBoyOldBoy]

A shop inspired method for easy edge banding is to purchase glueless wood edge banding. Cut strips 1/4" or more longer than the edge length. Apply wood glue to plywood and band edge and let completely dry. Use a medium hot clothing iron with a narrow long strip of paper between the wood band and the iron and firmly and slowly join the two dried glue surfaces together. The heat melts the PVA adhesive binding the materials. While still hot use a flat strip of wood to firmly run over the wooden edge banding to ensure contact of the materials. When cooled cut off the extra banding and sand the edges. Little or no glue squeeze out and edge will never fail. The hot melt edge banding is almost useless - gummy trying to sand off squeeze out and any heat will cause the bond to melt and fail. The paper will prevent hot metal contact with the edging and not scorch it. Edge banding is available in the same or close color to plywood. The same process works with melamine edging A further trick is to use the hot iron on melamine edging where the contact cement has failed. Again use the paper separator. If old adhesive fails to bond with the heat, use PVA adhesive with masking tape strips until glue joint dries. Happy edging.

[@TylrVncnt]

Could probably use a flush cut hand saw too, more work but don’t see why it wouldn’t work nearly as well without any additional setup needed

[@pathardage1880]

Thank you.

[@joeschlepp]

I just trim the solid edge about a 64th proud of the surface and just sand flush since i always sand all my panels anyways. eventually with a little practice you'll stop burning thru the ply veneer🤣. a router with a flush trim bit is a another option

[@markking6153]

Great video. 👍 Thank you

[@nivas01]

Another Great video . Curious why you didnt use L-fence for the trimming ? I learnt about it from your old video and built one .. works awesome for these kind of trimming .. plus other stuff as well

[@StumpyNubs]

Different videos show different techniques. It's what makes this channel great ;)

[@MartinMMeiss-mj6li]

Perhaps my suggested process would no longer be called "banding," but I like to cut a rabbet whose depth equals the thickness of the plywood down the length of the stock that is to form the band. This gives gluing surface not just on the edge but also on one surface of the plywood. The result is a thicker-looking shelf (if it's a shelf), which is often desirable, but also makes the piece stiffer, which is nearly always desirable.