My New Training Plan | Road to V11 | ep 9

[@MarkGross-y5g]

i love the shots of the footholds for reference, its always hard to get perspective on how hard climbs are

[@felipes4406]

Hey man, Felipe here. I'm on my own journey to the high v's as a goal and dream to be attempted. Only difference is I'm 35 and just restarting after a 5 year hiatus with no climbing facilities or rock where I moved to. Just now getting a new gym in town and although nothing great but they have a 2024 moon board and that's what I will be focusing in. I live in New Zealand and I will put effort on trying (my dream or goal v13) probably in one boulder around the castles/flock hill area. I just wanted to share that I did calisthenics as an alternative to climbing for the last two years and I would suggest you to try some of the exercises. They make you strong in different ways and definitely very complementary to climbing. And I'm for the first time trying gym machines and it's interesting but I don't know how they will translate to bouldering. Subscribed and I hope you can achieve your goals and me too. high five

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Have you tried the wrist wrench without the thumb? Need to flex the wrist more that way. I train to the weaker side usually, you just need to be kinda close to failure on exercises to get a benefit, so if one side is a touch further from failure, the training effect will be quite similar. (if the disparity isn't huge anyway.) Is that foot hold on the first problem an inductor from Powercompany?

[@oscarkeene5867]

Personal experience from doing the same pull-up protocol (Russian method i think) is that the beginning always feels way easier and by the time you reach 4 or 5 x 5 it is much more challenging. I also think the aim of it is more so to get good volume and familiarity with pulling a certain weight throughout a bloc and making it feel easy to then make a larger jump up. E.G. I saw a vid of Dominic Sky introducing it and he had a template of 20kg for the first bloc and then jumping up to 30kg I believe.

[@tommysegovia]

Okay that makes a lot of sense, I seriously appreciate the info. I might stick with the same weight then and give myself room for that bigger jump then 😁

[@mortenlund1590]

The guy I "got the russian method from", mentioned that he did 4*5-5*5-6*5- and even 7x5. Over time, 2-3 weeks pr set eps. And then, if 5-7 sets og 5 reps feels "easy" with i.e, 40 kg. Then bump it up 10kgs--> 3*3 ~ repeat.

[@VianneyTonien]

For muscle imbalance, i usually train both the sides evenly if its not too unbalanced, but if its a big imbalance, i do more on the weaker side after with a lighter weight just to slowly even the sides out :) nice vid btw

[@tommysegovia]

Oh interesting, has that worked well for reducing imbalances? Thank you!

[@VianneyTonien]

@@tommysegovia yeah it definitely helped me. The imbalance was my biceps, when i did pull ups the right arm would always pull a bit more but over time, the pull ups evened out a lot but there was still a strength difference so I did curls where I would do the same reps then use a lower weight and do some more only on the left (weaker) side. Hope this helped!

[@tommysegovia]

@@VianneyTonienoh that’s cool, I’m glad to hear it was able to work well for you. I hadn’t heard of that method until you mentioned it, glad to get more peoples experiences and perspectives with training! 😁 thanks for sharing!

[@samuelpierini5189]

how long are your actual climbing sessions? Seems short, but maybe you are only showing the projecting?

[@tommysegovia]

@@samuelpierini5189 they are very short, the actual climbing portion is probably only 1-2 hours max most days

[@abclimbing]

Maybe dumb question but doesnt weighted pullups impact your ability to try hard climbing? Or is volume low enough that it’s more a warmup?

[@R3FL3XSN1P3R]

There's an inflection point. If you're weak in your back (eg. Pull-ups are hard) it will affect your climbing in a bit way. Once you're doing the weights he is, your pulling power is so rarely your limiting factor, and instead your finger strength is. Your body only lets you pull so hard when the grips limiting, so you rarely ever feel it.

[@tommysegovia]

Yes this is exactly what I notice when training and climbing. My pulling power in a session feels basically unaffected doing weighted pull up training beforehand. But I would say at a certain point it can slightly affect your overall energy levels for the session which can be most noticeable in really demanding body tension moves. But it’s so minimal and the benefits of weighted pull up training outweigh it a lot in my opinion

[@mortenlund1590]

LOL, I just started the same pullup regiment. Russian protocoll if I'm not wrong.

[@tommysegovia]

Yeah! I think that’s what I remember it being called. Let me know how it works for you 😁

[@mancee]

Where’s the leetcode portion of the video???

[@tommysegovia]

Lmao literally was solving questions during editing this

[@OrionDuCros]

Any reason why you'd prefer hammer curls over reverse curls? For pure strength training wrist curls seems like the better exercise for forearm strength. If you are focusing on bicep strength, then a regular barbell curl is going to be superior.

[@OrionDuCros]

I wanna add your row weight is too low, strength training range is 1-5 reps, if you're training with higher reps of rows then you're going to be increasing your muscle size which is only going to make you heavier.

[@tommysegovia]

For me I personally like hammercurls since they mimic pulling on the wall pretty well, targeting both the bicep and forearm. I’ve found that they helped me a lot with one arm pull-ups, I typically don’t enjoy reverse curls since they don’t target the bicep as much, and I don’t enjoy regular bicep curls since they put a lot of stress on my bicep tendon and don’t hit the brachioradialis. And yeah I do agree that the rep range and intensity + rest time fall more into hypertrophy. That is mainly due to just trying to build a good foundation since those muscles and movement patterns are so underdeveloped. I will likely eventually shift into a more strength focused routine

[@OrionDuCros]

@tommysegovia fair enough! Glad to know you have a reason

[@qriz5]

same weight sometimes more reps on weaker side.

[@tommysegovia]

More reps on the weaker side? Not the stronger side?