My Simple Resin 3D Printing Process - From A to Z

Let me walk you through my process of how I 3D Print with Resin!
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#3DPrinting #resin3dprinting #Alien

[@Thanos88888]

For a wet look, I use a brush on gloss coat. If I want dripping slime or blood, I use UHU Glue and pull strands of it, then use a transparent paint when it's dry. When I'm gluing models of this size together, I refrain from using superglue unless it's just for small detailed pieces. I've had super glued resin prints randomly fall apart in my display cabinet a year or two after putting them together. I opt to use a 2 part epoxy (5 minute epoxy that I get at my local Dollarama) which makes for a very secure bond. Don't forget to scratch up the surfaces that you plan on gluing together.

[@dusklightmusic]

Dip it resin and re-cure it for a wet look or use gloss spray finish and do 4 coats! Great video!

[@HellstormWargaming]

Grab yourself some vallejo gloss varnish if you want the "wet look" :) just paint it on or airbrush it. You can mix vibrant colours for acid etc too :)

[@maxmairena6021]

Exactly 👍🏼

[@anthonylong5870]

Do you do that instead of curing?

[@lumi_arcs]

@@anthonylong5870 Valejo is PAINT. you cure the model, you paint the model, you smash gloss varnish over the paint.

[@StoveFortuna]

@@anthonylong5870 Nope, it's a top coat to go over the paint. It will also protect the drybrushed finish

[@UncleJessy]

@@HellstormWargaming awesome! Will be picking some up!

[@ayalde]

Esto está genial! Y el estudio nuevo (no había visto ningún video en la nueva ubicación) está genial también. Felicidades tío Jessy!

[@peterchan9525]

Uncle Jessie painting skill has improved a lot!!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks! Helps that this technique is easy to pull off 🤘

[@InakiSculpts]

Awesome model! Thanks for all the info uncle Jessy!

[@TheRynox666]

Great tutorial. I use Saraya Tech simple clear quite a bit and for best results I use Maguire's Plasti X polishing compound. All you need is a hand compound pad and a microfiber towel. You don't have to do any wet sanding beforehand and it's paintable with clear top coat. Another cool feature of the clear simple resin is I can custom tint with resin pigments.

[@mml3140]

will it remain translucent if you use transparent resin tints ?

[@ScytheNoire]

That is one completely badass model.

[@xxirion]

13:55 I've found that with a "wet look" is to use some minwax polycrylic varnish with a wide brush and applying liberally to the area that you're wanting to be "wet"

[@djwolff7390]

That looks awesome finished!! The painting topped it!! Man I want one!!!💯

[@RealOwthathurts]

New to 3d printing, just brought the Saturn 4 ultra can't wait! Your videos are awesome!

[@coltonbucholz6278]

Thank you!! I’ve been struggling lately to get successful prints on my resin printer and this helped greatly

[@tattedgoat]

Oh wow. This looks amazing! 😮

[@Mrs.LeeMerie3D]

Wow I appreciate the skill! This is a lot of work & looks amazing!

[@fenderfreak86]

for your wet look use Pledge floor finish. You can even add paint to it to make oil washes, it self levels too. Also you could dip your clear resin part in it and let the excess wick off and it will make it go super clear, hope this helps!

[@Astronaut_Zero]

Great print! One helpful thing I have discovered is using Zona polishing paper as opposed to sand paper. The sand paper has a thicker back than the polishing paper and isn’t as flexible and easy to get into hard to reach and curved areas. Amazon has them and they are great!

[@volttherobot]

That is SO GORGEOUS!!!! SOOOOOO good. This is a great video, you went through the entire process. A+ Content, sir!

[@chituboxofficial987]

Awesome. Perfect print and painting!

[@grimmsobek2057]

Fantastic as ever Uncle J Thank you For all your Hard and Dedicated work

[@thedutchcylon]

Nice print, looking awesome, And for the wet look, you can use multiple options. Use a soft brush to brush on epoxy thinly. If to wet it will drip, and this will need a cure time. A other good option is with liquitex high gloss, use a soft brush and go over the whole thing. Dries pretty fast and leaves a very glossy shine. This stuff works almost on everything.

[@Murghus.T]

i love your Work! you inspired me to buy and Print my self. Thank you uncle Jessy

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

Damn man! That turned out incredible. The painting you did really gave this a great final result. Love it man! Oh, and for the "wet look" you could mix up some 5 min epoxy, and put that around the mouth or areas you want, works really well.

[@Larcen_7]

Thank you for the excellent guide and information. The model turned out great!

[@genesis83]

for the dry brushing i would have used a more dark metallic blue which would give it a more slimy/wet look

[@DUSKtillDAN666]

I made onevof these a while back but mine didnt have the separate skull cover and i painted mine with colour shifting blue/purple paint. I love it but sadly droped it the other day. I can fix it but now ive just seen your one i kinda want to do this one. You end result did really suprise me. It looks really good man. Great job!!👊🤘

[@dhurt2139190]

That looks so dope! Amazing job!

[@LongscopeTV]

For prints like that, and aircraft canopies, we used to use "future floor polish" to get them REALLY clear. You can't find it anymore, but a newer replacement is called "QUICK SHINE". You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot in the floor polish section. A quick dunk, let it dry, and it retains that clear look very very well.

[@dartheden]

Nice work and thanks for the work process you showcased. Now for some critique, I would have gone with that Smoky transparent black Head shield, i do think that had look so much better with the work you did on skull part, dulling it down a bit. If you look at the Xenomorphs they do not have clear skull shields they are a semi transparent Chitin which you can faintly see the skull texture beneath when the light hits it in the dark movies. And for some wet look you can go with a simple gloss varnish from the store and paint it on making it have that wet look, i would personally just do it on the most bright dry brushed parts of the model to give it a sheen as if lights hits the model.

[@HideoGojira]

This is so incredible!!!! I am in awe!! Gonna try this too!

[@tornapart75]

Hey Jessy. If you wanna give it a 'wet look' then remove the clear skull covering and then spray the alien with 'clearcoat'..will make it look absolutely awesome 👍 well..even more awesome. Great print mate ❤

[@dustinworcester2799]

When I printed a Xenomorph, I didn't do any highlights/dry brushing but I did get a great wet look by hitting it with Rust-Oleum gloss crystal clear acrylic enamel spray paint. The whole thing has a very wet/glossy look and has held up for a year+ now.

[@shutinyanks]

Damn that looks sick!!!! Wish i had a resin printer Aliens is one of my favourite franchises. Good job jessy,

[@GiancarloArriola3D]

that clear resin looks good! its giving me a few ideas on some new projects, thanks man

[@all2easy1011]

a good method for slimmy/goo is 5 min apox thinned with acetone. play around with it you can get some good drip areas that cure before they hit the ground

[@ethansoderstrom8287]

I might have to try some of these process for a POTC Davy Jones print🏴‍☠️

[@Peter-DOC-Docter]

Nice one man, you should make these total build videos more often!

[@diyfireking]

Incredible work as always 👍👍

[@nickzucc]

What a great project! Thanks for sharing with us all!

[@spork861]

@unclejessy, the reason the wet sanded one felt tacky is because resin does NOT like water, so even just the exposure via wet sanding introduced water into the resin, it soaks it up (and it can also easily deform resin prints but you got lucky with the shape of the print and the amount of water wasn't a lot), meaning that the resin tried to sweat out the water while the spraypaint was trying to dry, so it interfered. IF you want to wet sand resin prints, maybe use clean isopropyl alcohol instead of water, that might sound weird but that's the safe method.

[@JaggerVHS]

Ive used a combo of Vallejo gloss varnish and you can get this adhesive called UHU, its a fast drying kinda stringy glue that you can use to make a dripping saliva effect

[@JensileinTCS]

awesome as always. again! 😀

[@EverynameTaken02]

that looks amazing

[@mikeboyle6693]

That is just stunning!!

[@MysticNode626]

I’m finding skipping the ipa wash and just going straight to curing station works great for small stuff, gunna try a big model soon

[@matylang]

Awesome as always!

[@l____bugc____l]

Uncle Jessie !! -- > You can color UHU glue with Citadel Technical Tesseract Glow (green) and make green slimey drips hang from its teeth and put it at some key points on its body for some alien gore.. 😉Maybe make some pudles on the base Great model and Print ! 😍

[@Aphazel]

FOOOCKIN' INSANE @Uncle Jessy !!!! I love it.. I loooooove Alien ;)

[@Swinglehurst-Guitars]

That is incredible!

[@stropheum]

This is probably the most incredible resin print i've seen yet. fantastic job

[@ger5956]

For a wet loom you could jut add a thick gloss varnish or some thin clear uv resin for bigger droplets.

[@TheSucc33d]

I always love the detail on resin prints.. and I always find myself looking at various statues etc. thinking man I would love to make that. But the toxic nature of the chemicals.. the odor they apparently produce ( never been that close to one myself but EVERYONE seems to talk about it ) and the requirement for all that extra hardware ie. a curing station, uv station, and so on has kept me in fdm for now but who knows maybe some day. XD

[@xRaptorScreamx]

Gloss Varnish if you want it to look wet, couple mist layers, and last more heavy, but not too much to affect details

[@NIGHTRIDER41274]

to get the wet look brush clear resin on the model and jhit it with a uv light....made mine look legit

[@kevleart]

For the wet look, maybe use a black primer with a gloss finish to begin with? Then apply the dry brush layer after.

[@Dstinct]

While #3 looks the cleanest and could be good for things like glass, I feel the #2 makes the most sense on this particular model because the bumps look more organic and what I would expect something organic grown on the head to look like. Our nails aren't perfectly smooth either. Thanks for different techniques that could be applied in different situations.

[@sheikoner]

Looks amazing!

[@Simoncressey99]

Cool video, I use gloss clear wheel lacquer on big prints/props and it's very hard and super glossy.

[@DenisRyan]

Amazing video! Gorgeous model!

[@partyalldaypartyallnight1057]

Looks great.

[@michaelbaykara2322]

Great work UJ

[@joejr253]

If you are looking for the wet look, the gloss finish or varnish can usually make something look wet. Matte and satin usually look better for clothes and sometimes skin, but wet is definitely gloss

[@currentuser2]

Only suggestion would be to hit it with some glossy clear coat for the wet look, minus the clear part. For that you'll want to use something else possibly an oil that won't make it yellow over time, as the clear coat might yellow on the clear part.

[@Mr47-007]

Good job! I love it!

[@quendyn3472]

Citadel's ardcoat is my go to for 'wet' glossy finishes, but any other gloss varnish would achieve that slimey look

[@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL]

Thanks for this video awesome work

[@MrStarwindk]

Awesome video

[@milesbraun9932]

Hey I really like modge podge hi - gloss clear spray. Super wet and glossy looking!

[@abstractfate6104]

Alien vs predator is one of my favorite franchises. I’m currently modeling a fugitive predator and my very first model was grid alien. Will most likely at least go in and refine the alien since I didn’t know much about sculpting. Hopefully it’s not so bad I just end up redoing it

[@scottdecleene6071]

Well done. You could gloss or satin coat the rest of the skin to give it a shiny or wet look. I would probably do silver on the teeth as well.

[@nicksmith1415]

Thank you Jesse. I have been wondering about printing lenses for helmets, currently crafting a couple of Space Marine helmets,Titus's and a Chaplain. I'm conscious that it may cause eye damage. After watching i might stick to sheet materials for any optics

[@3DJapan]

I've tried Polycrylic spray for clear coat and noticed it looked like it had tiny bumps all over from the spray droplets, so it was not perfectly clear. Then I tried brushing on 3 coats of Polycrylic from a can and that worked much better.

[@Freeman42718]

My god This is beautiful work.

[@3DGEOPrints]

For that wet look try Mod Podge Acrylic Sealer Super Hi-Shine

[@krisxf]

@UncleJessy as someone who does a LOT of resin printing, any plans on doing an alcohol vs water washable resin comparison video? I've just been searching for some to see which is better and not a lot of content about. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@LordNerfherder]

As a recommendation.. gloss coat it to give nasty glossy slimey alien feel... pin it to the base. Hole in the bottom (drill) and bit in the mini. Plug and play.

[@Vmshipe]

Looks so cool!!! How long did this take to print?

[@IKonic_Than]

Pick up some Villiany Wash Ink. They have a full set for I believe $75-80. It'll give you that creepy oozy look but Def pick up some Vallejo Poly Gloss varnish to fully lock it all in place.

[@Ajkirchoff]

Use a glossy varnish to get it shiny and wet

[@drakocarrion]

Gloss varnish will give it a wet look

[@Loco_Robo]

Gloss varnish will get you that wet look. Just put some all over it and you’ll be golden, plus your paint job will be protected.

[@nobodyimportant8811]

That looks really awesome, how long did it take you to print all of the parts

[@hurkalurka]

if you want a slimy look use some gloss varnish and uhu adhesive to make clear drippy strings

[@christopherjones9167]

Just use UV cure resin clear like for jewellery making. Brush that on and then UV cure. Wet look baby! Also you can add globs and drops with it like out of the mouth etc. ❤❤

[@msamyweber]

Woodland Sceneics Wet Effects, mostly used for water effects but could be used here to give a wet look. Or AK & Green Stuff World have slime time effect products that would give it that look

[@austinrikestoplay]

That is SO fire

[@Senbonzakura776]

Awesomeness. I like printing in Resin but I always fear doing the supports wrong.

[@Lychee3d]

Incredible work and result, it looks amazing!

[@exjumper999]

Can you do a video on the pain that you use?

[@creationsofmadness4867]

gloss varnish will ad a shiny ness

[@snart]

Oh - forgot to ask, can you share a link to the dry brush palette? Thanks!

[@Queue22]

thats amazing

[@ZachDames]

As a longtime Alien fan, this is so sick.

[@c-shepard]

Smoke tint the dome and give it a gloss finish. Trivia fact, H.G. Giger integrated an actual human skull behind the dome for the original 1979 movie costume. This detail is barely noticeable from the original film due to Scott darkening all the alien scenes to hide flaws due to time constraints in production. For the sequel James Cameron revised the alien dramatically and omitted the eye skull features and went with opaque domes.

[@PhilButcher-dj6nt]

H. R. Giger!

[@Chocolate-xs6kq]

Jessie Amca banada bi Elegoo lütfen 🙏

[@ger5956]

I’d be careful with hollowed prints, you could end up having the print crack or explode due to interior not being fully cured. This happens because the uncured interior expands/contracts at a different rate to the fully cured exterior. If it does explode it can contaminate a large area with uncured resin which is not ideal if you have kids or pets, or for your own health for that matter. Ideally try find a way to cure the inside of larger hollow prints.

[@dskochhar1]

I thought you were supposed to apply a layer of primer to the print before starting the dry brushing. Is the priming step no longer necessary? From what I’ve heard, prints without primer can continue to cure under natural UV light, which might cause cracks or even breakage. Please correct me if I’m wrong!

[@sealdoggydog]

The base looked like it had lots of detail - did it require any supports?

[@SaturdayMorningProps]

Dang you clay!!! 😂 Amazing video

[@moimeme8827]

for wet effect: Clear UV resin and a brush :).

[@redorbstudios7731]

Hello Jessy, could you talk to Chitubox to see if they could add the inches options instead of millimeters?