Metal Casting at Home part 60 Spoked wheel Castings

[@CNCDude]

I would have NEVER! thought of using screws to strengthen the sand. Mr MyFordBoy, with this tidbit alone, you have saved me countless dollars on Tylenol. Thanks for this beyond excellent tutorial!

[@myfordboy]

CNC Dude Glad you liked it!

[@frisbeephil]

The fine attention to details like adding the screws for support for the sand is just another reason I respect your abilities and enjoy/learn from your videos.

[@jamesdim]

Sir you are smooth as butter! I've never seen casting look so easy!

[@alanlott5553]

Great video! I love the fact that there is no talking - it isn't needed and eliminates that distraction.

[@Migueldeservantes]

you have one more time have educated me and show me one more time how resolve a problem that I have found more than humiliating. those screws on that weak point on the mold make all the sense in the planet. Thank you again and again.

[@BleuCollarFndryMTL]

Nice example of your casting process. I like the use of screws. It gives some ideas for my own projects. Thanks for posting and your hard work.

[@arsanzic8592]

I don't understand why you don't have a million subs!!! Nice work, and thanks, your vids are inspiring and informative.

[@prospectvic]

Because he don't know how to talk

[@Alatinu]

Once more ¡Thank you VM and congratulations!. You were, are and will be my master in all of this. I must begin with your teachness. The best for you and your family

[@phi9249]

Terrific vid. Of course you make it look easy. I should have a chance at some casting this fall. Your video went through every technique I will need. Good stuff.

[@poppypuppy5372]

Having watched many of your videos, the casting technique is similar , and now familiar in most. I find the patterns and moulds you create to be the more interesting; that, and the machining videos.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Another great casting by the old master. Thanks for the video.

[@MultiIvo007]

Jsem furt čekal co z toho bude a pak jsem se smál až jsem se za bříško popadal. :-) Tolik práce pro tak málo. :-) Ten kdo je alespoň minimálně obeznámen se strojírenstvím by nikdy nepoužil tento zdlouhavý, pracný a nebezpečný styl výroby takové kraviny ... :-D

[@Paddington60]

That is so clever! I'm sure if I tried that I end up burnt with metal everywhere except in the right place. Thanks for sharing!

[@TheCalse]

Few days ago I firstly poured aluminium in molding form. I have had problems with molding mix (clay), I have no normal sand, but I have some clay, which has finished termal processing and have problems with mixing up not processed clay and processed clay, after many efforts I have definitely got normal compsition, but I used too many water, however it was needed for that composition. After I poured aluminium into the hole it has begin making bubbles, the form was of tube with two plates on the ends for add it to another things, the orientation was vertical, so it seems what aluminium can cooled off and solidify, but aluminium was enough hot for not become hard 2-8 minutes. How I noticed - the main mistake was too fast pouring, and that was the reason for made bubbles and cause of bad quality. But in your video I notice what you`re pouring faster twice than me, and the product have very good quality, and now I`m not sure that fast pouring is the reason of my failure. Don`t you know - the chromium oxide III, titanium oxide IV and calcium carbonate can be used as molding composition? I know what chromium and titanium can be restored from their oxides by aluminium, however I`m sure that these oxides is very chemical strong, cause worked with them. That I can`t say about calcium carbonate, but it can`t be restored by aluminium.

[@BillSikes.]

Brilliant craftsmen ship ! Thank you very much for sharing these skills with us on YT

[@rickl.orchids]

...love the screw idea, great work as always!...thanks for sharing you work.

[@kalleklp7291]

You are creating art, sir..! Thank's for sharing..

[@alir4864]

Excellent, love your works and thanks for teaching us ...

[@michor10]

Wow, this is amazing. Now I want to do that. So cool.

[@markfryer9880]

Yet another fine example of myfordboy's pattern-making and foundry skills for us to eagerly admire and devour. I was surprised that no riser was used to clear the gasses and provide extra metal feed, so perhaps myfordboy can enlighten us as to why?

[@myfordboy]

Mark Fryer See the reply given to Tony Smith below.

[@JDeWittDIY]

Mark Fryer Here's a direct link to the reply given to Tony Smith: kzbin.info/www/bejne/epOagXlnrdZ0ptE&lc=z135ux4a2wayungt222ajf1xppaxf3may04

[@alextrezvy6889]

+J DeWitt DIY this link leads to the general page with the video.

[@StephanieElizabethMann]

Brilliant. very well illustrated. Thanks for the post.

[@ProMachinist]

Excellent video myfordboy and thank you for sharing. Is there a proper pouring technique required to prevent unwanted air pockets. Andy 🇨🇦

[@myfordboy]

I Degas and add flux and have a high feeder.

[@chadgdry3938]

wow, you really make that look easy, Good show!

[@robinsonqioeg129]

Looking towards to the man like you, you're good and you can achieve more than that. Actually it teach other people as well.

[@billiardrichard6351]

Awesome casting but why did you use the screws in between the spoke spaces can please share the knowledge ?

[@myfordboy]

They were used to anchor the sand between the spokes to the main body of sand. Without the screws the sand could stick in the spokes.

[@billjones5178]

Well maybe no talking is good, but, what was the black sand like material u packed mound with? What was the metal you melted? Aluminum or steel? How hot did it have to get to melt? I weld steel, but never seen it melt in a pot, why did the pot not melt? So many questions?

[@acapetrovic33]

THANK YOU FOR ALL LITTLE DETAILS

[@ozolagniac]

Do you have a general rule of thumb for what wheels are OK to sand-cast, vs more... "industrial"... methods like die-casting? In particular I'm wondering about casting some very low-speed wheels, but they will see some heavy loads, as 'bogie wheel' replacements for a rubber-tracked skid-steer loader...14" As many others have commented, this was a great fly-on-the-wall video overview - thanks. I think I recognize the flywheel in the closing moments...

[@myfordboy]

+ozolagniac I can only do sand casting at home with my set up. You could add strength to the wheel you mention in the design, thicker spokes, thicker metal.

[@ozolagniac]

+myfordboy I'll clarify - not sure if you're familiar with comparative strength of other methods I've been reading about, eg gravity die-cast, but wondered if there's a well-known hierarchy of strength in the finished product, when those different methods are compared (all using the identical pattern). I'd like to do these simple disc-type wheels by sand-casting, but one shop is telling me they will be significantly weaker if sand-cast vs die-cast...so I wonder if they are just "selling me"...

[@myfordboy]

+ozolagniac I don't know the answer to your question. I wouldn't have thought it made any difference to the strength whether is was sand or die cast if the same metal is used. I have not done any research into this as sand casting is sufficient for my needs.

[@rpicinic]

Beautiful work. Wish you were my neighbor 👍

[@rsz90182]

LOL

[@tutonias]

like Trump he does not want to have neighbors. it seems...

[@adipoetrabali4135]

Robert Picinic i

[@rsz90182]

adipoetra bali Do you mean capital I?

[@Proffinouille]

yet another cool myfordboy casting ...congratulations just a question why did'nt make exaust hole as usual ??

[@myfordboy]

Proffinouille This casting has thin sections and uses little metal so shrinkage is not an issue. The sand is porous to some extent and air can escape. On small castings i find a riser not necessary.

[@Urb4n0Ninj4]

This may be explained in past videos, but without any holes for the air to escape, how do you not get any air bubbles trapped in that casting? You poured the aluminum so fast I didn't see any air come back through where you poured it, and yet the end result looks flawless.

[@BITTYBOY121]

Fantastic as always! - Superb video! 10/10.

[@MA-nx3xj]

Hi! Great job! Why weren't "risers" used in this casting procedure? Thanks in advance!

[@myfordboy]

They are not needed on small castings, the feeder will proved enough metal for any shrinkage problems.

[@MA-nx3xj]

Thank you for the fast reply! I figured that was the reason, again, thanks :D

[@spinnetti]

Nice... would have thought you would need a riser - isn't that normal practice? (how to decide when to use or not?)

[@myfordboy]

+spinnetti A riser in not needed on small items like this. If it's a small part or it does not need much metal i don't use a riser.

[@charlesbarth912]

where can one fine the little locking devices on the side of the wooden boxes?. really enjoy your videos. Chuck B.

[@myfordboy]

+Charles Barth They are common here in the UK for flat pack furniture. I know they don't seem available in the US. As a service I can mail some to you details here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/making-moulding-flasks.html

[@charlesbarth912]

+myfordboy This would be great, I'm in Amarillo, Tx. 79118, Address is 2575 E. Loop 335 S. my E-Mail is [e-mail]. Thanks so very much. May I pay you for these units?

[@websitedesigner7158]

This is impressive. I am thinking of casting a larger wheel. My question to u. During casting , if i pour one scoop of molten aluminum , i wait abit(while melting more) and pour more to the mold will it hold.?

[@myfordboy]

No, you have have enough metal melted to fill the mould in one go.

[@websitedesigner7158]

@@myfordboy ok This is tricky ;my wheel i want it diameter of 45cm and about 6 spoke

[@myfordboy]

Going to need a bigger crucible.

[@VillsvinJeger]

I have a cast iron sitting bench that would be really nice to replicate. Iron on the ends, oak between where you sit. Not sure if sand casting can be done with that large of an item though.

[@myfordboy]

+alwcurlz Could be done if you could melt enough metal.

[@svenmeier9706]

Why have you changed the sand? Is it becouse of the wheels?

[@aubreyaub]

@ 9.46, that aluminium looks VERY HEAVY, Hey. Nice videos.

[@BoingotheClown]

LOL! I misread the title and thought you were going to make 60 spoked wheel castings.

[@sooth15]

Why is the sand grey this time? Seems like the last several castings you've shown were all reddish orange sand. Is there a difference?

[@myfordboy]

sooth15 I was waiting for someone to ask this. You may have seen this sand in my earlier videos. It is a water bonded greensand but I only have a small amount of it and cannot get any more. It does hold together better than my Bromsgrove greensand which is why i chose it for this casting. The Bromsgrove is good for most castings and i can buy as much as I need.

[@corradocanni]

Imake green sand mixing sand and clay and enaught water for the sand sticks togheter by pressing into the hand. Problem is that it keep sticking with the pattern no matter i put talcum. what is the problem or my mistake ? Tanks for answering.

[@myfordboy]

+Corrado Canni Your sand is probably too wet. it takes a bit of practice to get it right.

[@myfordboy]

+myfordboy You also need to make sure every vertical surface on the pattern has a few degrees of draft.

[@binks166]

Thank you for an interesting video. Best Regards, Harvey

[@Drakwdeanrer]

I dont presume to know anywhere as much about casting as you but I've seen others make a second shaft leading to the casting form, which I presume serves to provide an output for the air that could possibly remain trapped inside. Is it necessary or is it optional?

[@myfordboy]

It's not necessary on a small casting like this. One of the main uses of providing a riser is to feed the mould with metal it cools and provide a vent.

[@justafanmarvel9669]

Hi, I have 2 questions.. what are you casting in? (What type of dirt or sand is that) and what is you crucible made of and where did you get it? Thanks, im just starting out in casting and appreciate any help/advice i can get.

[@myfordboy]

Crucible is a Salamander clay /graphite and came from artisanfoundry.co.uk The sand is a small batch of greensand i have from an unknown source. You will see in my other videos i usualy use a orange sand which is just as good and came from the same supplier as the crucible. It's called bromsgrove greensand.

[@justafanmarvel9669]

+myfordboy Thankyou!

[@myfordboy]

Yes it needs sifting and water adding after use and then can be used again. The probe is to measure the temperature of the metal.

[@myfordboy]

Yes it is

[@claudenicoli7076]

Absolutely beautiful 👍🏻

[@kiplindsay1250]

That was fun to watch!

[@davejones4740]

I'm in England. What sands do you use also where do you get the fixings for the side of the wooden box..the metal clips that hold both parts together. I want to make a box like shoe box size but with 1" thick sides. As part of the same task I would like to have an inner box that has 1" thick sides that slides into this. Is this possible. Kind of like a size 10 shoe box that you can slide a size 8 shoe box into the size 10.

[@myfordboy]

This is the sand. artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38 You can get the clamps at any diy store, see my article here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/making-moulding-flasks.html I don't know why you would want a flask that slides into another.

[@Khellendros_]

It may be a silly question but why not make it a two part mould? It would be more work to make it precise but the join line coul be machined on the lathe and you wouldn't need to reinforce the sand.

[@myfordboy]

Shannariano Making the mould in one piece there is no parting line to clean up on the inside of the wheel. it's easier to make the pattern and adding the screws is not much effort.

[@jurorx]

Would this work on bigger wheels like for instance a band saw's wheels? I know the casting process should work, just worried about the strength of aluminium in the long run.

[@myfordboy]

+Making SawDust It would work fine. You would need to be able to melt enough metal and if it's big the sand mould would be heavy to lift.

[@jurorx]

Thank you for the quick reply, much appreciated

[@johnrutzen1861]

I am trying to cast some locomotive wheels but the sand gets stuck between the spokes. The gaps are too small to put screws in. Any ideas please to stop this happening? Thank you for these videos, they really help.

[@myfordboy]

+john rutzen . Make sure the pattern is very smooth and has draft on all vertical surfaces and no sharp corners. Or it could be your sand is too wet or has not enough green strength.

[@alan12635]

amazing thank you great to watch Alan

[@ElectroStrong]

myfordboy - long time fan of your work - you make it look so easy - have you considered doing a video showing lessons learned? What you generally show looks way to easy to most of us, but the finished product takes much more work for others that know the trade - I'd personally prefer a video that shows too much water in the sand and it's outcome, along with the failures with patterns and what you did to overcome them (i.e. screw idea - did it help more with steam or pattern stability?). Net result - you're experienced but you had to have had a bunch of failures in the past - mind sharing them with us? :)

[@myfordboy]

Scott Frappier I have included some out takes where things go wrong in a few video.

[@pierresgarage2687]

myfordboy I guess you still get a few failures, and Scott's idea to include those is in my opinion a great teaching aid... Thanks for those great videos, I've learned lots on casting... ;-)

[@damsela8342]

Hi exelent job, can you explain how to make a casting sand ,becose i have a problem with sand?

[@myfordboy]

The sand i use is a natural clay bearing sand. Home made greensand is usualy silica sand and around 10% bentonite clay.

[@damsela8342]

@@myfordboy thank you .

[@jcs6347]

Hi, I enjoy all your videos! May I ask why you didn't use a relief tube on the other side (not sure of the correct name) to ensure you had completely filled the cavity and allow stream to escape? I am not being critical just curious because in other videos you have used them.

[@myfordboy]

JC S This casting has thin sections and uses little metal so shrinkage is not an issue. The sand is porous to some extent and air can escape. On small castings i find a riser not necessary.

[@jcs6347]

myfordboyThank you for the note back. I really enjoy you machining videos also. Thanks for posting those also.

[@fbellaj]

Bravo, beaucoup de patience.

[@yuriy6414]

Did I understand correctly that the screws are needed, so that the sand does not pour out when removing a thick wooden pattern? If the model were thin, then screws will not be needed?

[@myfordboy]

There was a problem with the sand sticking in between the spokes. Adding the screws anchored it to the rest.

[@yuriy6414]

Thanks

[@colt1911ization]

Are you using talcum, powder as the mold release agent? If not, what is that powder you are using?

[@myfordboy]

+colt1911ization Yes, it's talc or baby powder.

[@joe-blow1613]

what was the purpose of the screws in the sand didnt look like the did anything, FOR RIGID OR STRENGTH..?....would it have worked without them?

[@myfordboy]

The screws anchor the sand between the spokes to the rest of the sand.

[@Preso58]

Myfordboy. Great video as always. I am curious about your greensand. Why is it so black? Is it just the sand colour or have you mixed something else in with it? Mine is made from white beach sand and bentonite and it came out a reddish brown. It also takes a lot of compacting to get it to hold. I have to use a mallet and even then I get failures. I have used the usual 10 to 15% clay. I wish my sand behaved as well as yours does.

[@myfordboy]

+Mark Presling The black sand I have in some videos came from an unknown source but it is similar to the sand i now use all the time. it is a natural greensand not home made. artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38&osCsid=oaevmqb838fhctgheomg4b2me2

[@HrdtimeFun]

That was cool to watch....thank you

[@IrishSkruffles]

myfordboy Do you find mould making an enjoyable exercise or somewhat tedious? Also how long does it take you to make and paint the wooden patterns?

[@myfordboy]

I enjoy the design and making of the pattern. Time not important as it's a hobby.

[@jondoes8222]

I plan to cast a wheel 30 inches diameter. I want to make it a pulley with spiral spokes but I have yet to understand how a pulley is cast.

[@karmicmessenger]

+Ron Delby The belt groove is machined into it later.

[@Cloxxki]

Very nice! Great way to get authentic quality parta. I suppose this particular wheel would be relatively easy/affordable to machine with modern technology butit would not be the same I am impressed the sand can take the impact tof the flowing metal with those sharp edges and that no bubbles form. Did you radially place the wheel intensionally thhis way relative to the intake or would any postioning work? Is there a limit to the types of metal that will work for this moulding method? Would silver work? And to that end, if pressed for it, could you limit the amount of additional metal volume for intake without risking imperfect casting, or is that shape dependent? Cheers, J

[@myfordboy]

Cloxxki Ideally it would have been better to place the ingate a little further around the periphery so the metal flows into a spoke but it did not matter on a small item like this. i could get away with a shorter riser but i am just using my standard fruit tin moulds. The higher riser does make it easier to pour as the crucible can be brought right up to the mould. The same sand can be used for any metal including silver, gold and iron.

[@Cloxxki]

myfordboy Thanks!

[@absmith666]

Great video as always. I'm no expert by any means, why didn't you use a riser of the wheel as I've seen in other videos? My understanding is the riser allows air to leave the casting void and counter act shrinkage of the part. Obviously this wasn't needed by the quality of the part produced. I am just curious why they are used sometimes and not others.

[@myfordboy]

Tony Smith Good question. This casting has thin sections and uses little metal so shrinkage is not an issue. The sand is porous to some extent and air can escape. On small castings i find a riser not necessary.

[@matthewsackman]

Tony Smith I have exactly the same question. My guess is that, provided the inflow joins with the highest part of the model imprint you don't need the riser. It's only if the inflow goes in at the bottom of the imprint and you need the metal to flow "up" that air pockets could form. In this case, he cuts quite a deep channel from the inflow to the imprint (which becomes the top) so I guess you can have high confidence the air will come out that way. I'm guessing.

[@myfordboy]

Matthew Sackman Not quite correct. If you look again you will see the metal flows into the bottom of the mould which I always do. If the metal is fed into the top the flow could displace the sand. The moulds always fill from the bottom.

[@absmith666]

myfordboy thanks

[@matthewsackman]

myfordboy Ahh ok, thank you. So the riser is only necessary when there's potentially a lot of air that needs to escape?

[@db2855]

1) I take it the screws helped the sand hold in place when removing the wheel? 2) I guess bubbles are never an issue with aluminum since you didn't have to tap? 3) Is it just a lot more cleanup if you didn't have the top box in place for this particular part?

[@myfordboy]

+Don Bates Screws hold sand in place between the spokes. The metal is degassed before pouring to prevent bubbles of gas being trapped in the metal. You cannot make a satisfactory cast without the cope (top box) in place. This would be an open mould, metal on the surface would shrink and not take the shape of the pattern.

[@brockdion2593]

That was amazing. Thanks for sharing.

[@ВалерийК-е2з]

Хорошее видео! Будто в своём литейном цехе побывал ) Нужен ещё вертикальный канал (выпар), для выхода газов. Удачи

[@jeanalvitre9136]

thanks for sharing and thanks for teaching us.

[@ipKonfig]

Casting is so fascinating to watch ;)

[@fredwild190]

Did this pattern have draft? Thank you.

[@myfordboy]

Yes every pattern has draft on all vertical surfaces.

[@fahb68]

Which is the propouse of the screws... thanks great video

[@myfordboy]

+Fernando Hernandez Bolio The space between the spokes is small so the sand is weak. The screws lock the sand to the main part of the mould. Like reinforcing bars in concrete.

[@alaskankare]

So why the extra pour area in the can? Would filling it directly into the box disturb the sand?

[@myfordboy]

+alaskankare The extra height gives "head" to the metal and feeds the mould. It also makes it easier to fill.

[@alaskankare]

+myfordboy thanks for the info.

[@lancedicken8796]

What do you use for flux and what do you use to degas? Will it work for brass?

[@myfordboy]

+Lance Dicken Degas with sodium carbonate and flux with EXF326 drossing flux. No need to degas brass and use borax as flux.

[@lancedicken8796]

+myfordboy I've been making some brass castings and seem to be getting a gas bubble in the finished piece. I have a pour hole and a vent hole and I'm using petrobond sand. Any pointers?

[@myfordboy]

+Lance Dicken I have limited experience with copper alloys. My books say it is gas porosity cause by a damp laddel but i expect you are pouring direct from a crucible.

[@DeliKURTmaltepe]

i love this channel

[@pagecosta]

o cara é bom , mesmo! very good.

[@Puzzle-sf3eu]

Très jolie vidéo un plaisir à regarder

[@derekludwig9678]

Great video, ive learnt so much from watching you. What would the results be with lost foam casting with sand but also adding a riser? Now lets pretend you/I were to use a styro cutter so the foam was smooth like your wood castings?

[@myfordboy]

+Derek Ludwig Making this with lost foam would mean making 4 patterns instead of one. The finish you get from foam is not as good as with a wooden pattern.

[@MrAbduvohid]

ДнпД

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. That was an other wonderful casting. This week I saw Doubleboost casting some time ago, and some little sand cast in between two parts of the pattern kept coming out, even after trying 5 times. Would you think that the screw trick would have helped him with that? It seems so feeble but at the same time so logical to do it like that. After the material can be taken out of the furnace, you seem to take your time to do so, is this the downfall of most casts, are they too eager to start casting ? Nice video, Marcel.

[@myfordboy]

Marcel Timmers There is no need to rush, the metal stays hot in the crucible. Best to take it easy and work safely.

[@marceltimmers1290]

myfordboy That is what I thought. You might want to have a talk with Keith Rucker, (Vintage machinery)he seems always in a bit of a hurry. However, he will not be casting for a while after that collapse of his beautiful kiln cast. I think he might be needing some pointers of someone who has done it all before.

[@thepoultrypeople]

im having a lot of trouble getting the sand not to stick to my pattern, any advice you can give would be greatfully appreciated

[@myfordboy]

+thepoultrypeople Assuming the pattern is correctly designed, smooth with no undercuts, the sand is too wet or has not enough green strength. It should hold together when squeezed in your hand and not stick to your hand. It takes a bit of practice to get it right.

[@thepoultrypeople]

thanks, ill do a little bit more work on the mold and experiment with the sand, all the best

[@Sugarsail1]

+thepoultrypeople I messed around with making my own casting sand...what a pain, consistency was never right, would dry out on hot days or I'd get it too wet or not mixed well. Finally gave up and just bought some petrobond casting sand, it was worth every penny, never had a problem since. HIGHLY recommended.

[@XgunhunterX]

hello there. I am just getting into metal casting. I'm wondering what metals I should use? like what isent toxic. also what safety precautions should I use. example should I ware a resporator

[@myfordboy]

+XgunhunterX Aluminium is easiest to start with. Alloy car wheels make good material or cast engine parts. No need for a respirator but essential is a full face shield and leather gauntlets. and no flip flops.

[@XgunhunterX]

+myfordboy thanks. one last thing. aluminum cans would probraly be to toxic to use wouldent they? you would need pure aluminum for it to be safe

[@myfordboy]

+XgunhunterX You might like to watch this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3etg3adfc-Xm6M Cans are not much use, they produce a lot of dross and make poor castings. Pure aluminium is not good for casting the type castings are made from is not pure there are are additives to make it more suitable. Stop worrying about toxic.

[@XgunhunterX]

+myfordboy thanx again

[@68sweetnovember]

David - great vid. 2 questions that I would hope you could answer for me : 1. Is that green sand or "petrobond" you are using in preparing the mould., 2. Is there a draft on the spokes ? And of so how much ?? As they look fairly even in the video. Kindest regards Anna

[@myfordboy]

68sweetnovember Hi Anna, It is greensand. You may have seen this sand in my earlier videos. I only have a small amount of this one and cannot get any more. It does hold together better than my Bromsgrove greensand which is why i chose it for this casting. The Bromsgrove is good for most castings and i can buy as much as I need. There is draft on all surfaces. The spokes are 1" high and there is a difference of 0.030" between top and bottom.

[@68sweetnovember]

myfordboy thank you.

[@humbergg1]

Hi teach!!! What king dark sand you was using???

[@myfordboy]

+Humber Sarm It is a commercial greensand. I usualy use this sand artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38 which is very similar.

[@johnbazaar8440]

How much oil do you normally burn when melting aluminum? Thanks John

[@myfordboy]

John Bazaar I am burning about 3 litres an hour and can do 3 A10 crucibles full in that time.

[@kevkeelan5106]

Hi, I was just wondering if youre in the market to make parts to order? I want to build a KMG style knife grinder, but to buy the wheels is very expensive. Watching your videos has inspired me to make my own, but I dont have a lathe to finish the parts off. Love your videos, youre a true craftsman. Thanks Kev.

[@myfordboy]

kev keelan trouble with making custom parts is the pattern making can take a long time. Plain wheels are fairly simple though so I might be able to help. Bear in mind I am in England too. Send me a personal message or my email can be found here myfordboy.blogspot.com

[@jammi__]

myfordboy Have you tried pattern-making using 3D printers? How about a lost wax casting method using 3D PLA plastic prints acting as the "wax", directly using print positives that you can leave inside the sand? If you do, you could have some instructions for creating the pour channels in the print so that what people send to be casted could be done with minimal cast preparation work.

[@myfordboy]

jammi I don't have a 3D printer. all the prints i have seen on cheap printers are low resolution, not smooth enough finish to make a nice mould. I know lost PLA works but i have no plans to try this and prefer the traditional pattern making .

[@jammi__]

myfordboy Ok, fair. Designing and printing is a skill like any other and the result comes out accordingly. I don't know what you've seen, but I've had awesome experiences designing and printing things at our local maker space. We just don't have fire permits, so metal casting and such are out of the question.

[@jammi__]

myfordboy Also, I didn't mean you'd have to necessarily print anything, but rather accept printed, mailed in part patterns, whether they'd be used like you use your wooden patterns or lost PLA models.

[@asadquayum957]

Is cast aluminium not too soft for a wheel?

[@myfordboy]

+Asad Quayum The scrap material used is an alloy car wheel. if it's good enough for a car--- I fitted steel tyres on the wheels for a realistic look.

[@Tripp77]

One question.. why do you add screws?? For stability??

[@myfordboy]

+Powertripp Productions The sand can get stuck between the spokes when the flasks are parted. The screws tie the sand to the main sand.

[@unknown70000]

nice vid. What kind of sand is that?

[@myfordboy]

+Flying Wolf Man It's a commercial grade greensand.

[@aserta]

Watching you sit that long on your knees makes my knees hurt :) and i'm young-ish. Either way, another very enjoyable video AND a great learning experience.

[@myfordboy]

aserta I do have Knee pads in the trousers!

[@willmonkey9]

Is the green sand in this video homemade or bought

[@myfordboy]

+will fleming It is bought from here artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38

[@willmonkey9]

Thanks for answering, because I was wondering if the quality of the casts very ,very much between your homemade greensand and the bought green sand. And why didn't you use your homemade greensand more frequently did the batch not turn out? Again thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with us all and thank you for taking your to answer keep up the awesome casts. -Will Fleming

[@myfordboy]

+will fleming I only made the home made sand to show how it could be made as a lot of people were asking. The bought sand is much better to use and gives a better finish.

[@willmonkey9]

Thanks that's what I was wondering

[@gs1141]

I am Brazilian is much like your work me spiro it too thank you !!

[@MonitoSmith]

increible trabajo amigo...

[@Blue.4D2]

Anybody know what the screws between spokes are for? They obviously helped with removing the sand after casting, but is there another reason? Like supporting the sand between spokes while setting up the mold?

[@myfordboy]

+BluetoothSensei With out the screws sand can get stuck between the spokes when the pattern is removed from the sand.

[@Blue.4D2]

Thanks.

[@silverstake88]

Wow! VERY COOL !!

[@bryanisaacvillagomez]

a question, what kind of sand you use? and where can you get ?

[@myfordboy]

+Bryan Villagomez The sand is greensand . i get mine from artisanfoundry.co.uk You might like to to read this myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/greensand.html

[@nutsandbolts3729]

Great video!

[@you-tubejunkie2926]

How long was the drying time ?

[@myfordboy]

Metal is solid in 10 minutes.

[@acapetrovic33]

IS IT POSIBLE TO MAKE A MEXICAN SCULL IN DETAIL .....? EXCUSE FOR MY BAD ENGLISH

[@tomharrell1954]

expert at work

[@hothmobile100]

wow nice furnace! Commercial made one?

[@myfordboy]

+Richard Powell No home made.kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJPRo6KXo7Wnask