Trying to FIX: SONY Colour Watchman Portable TV

Hi, this video shows me attempting to fix a 1991 Sony Watchman colour portable television Model FDL-390BE. It will not power up and shows no signs of life. It was purchased on eBay many years ago and was sold as untested, when it arrived it didn't work!!! :-)
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.

[@daveharkin4731]

in future if you find a electronic device with a blown fuse, temporarily replace it with a bulb, if your circuit is 9 V then put 9v or 12v bulb in its place. If the bulb then lights up, then you know you have a short in the circuit and it won't burn any other components in your device. you can then remove any suspected components and if the bulb goes out you know you have located the shorted component. electronic capacitors all have what they call ESR "in series resistance" and as they age that resistance goes up or the capacitor can go short. I would invest in an ESR metre .so you can test capacitors in circuit, but make sure the tester can test capacitors at 100khz thanks Vince for another great video. I also learned from you as well mate.

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

Awsome ide a bit fragile but mutch better then a wire

[@areyouserious3092]

Spot on lol and I thought I was the only one who does that.

[@kpodbot1]

ESR means Equivalent series resistance and I believe Vince already has a test meter for this.

[@daveharkin4731]

@@kpodbot1 yes your right mate ESR does mean equivalent series resistance do you know what ESL stands for?and what is the dissipation factor and q angle of a capacitor? :-)

[@faidularcs]

@@daveharkin4731 equivalent series inductance

[@arfurfoxhaike]

21,High Street,Clacton,Essex. it'a PDSA charity shop now.

[@chamoo232]

I checked google map as well. The sign says PDSA but what we see in the windows look like a New age store that sells rocks and "tobacco pipes". lol

[@Pillock25]

I was wandering how many others checked.

[@Merescat]

@@Pillock25 I set the U/O at 50% :)

[@cantliff9]

I also went on Google Street view 😄

[@mistermatix8241]

It is a PDSA Charity Shop

[@scottmcdonnell7559]

The glue holding the flex ribbon to the LCD panel has likely cracked and/or the adhesive leaked between contacts. The lines you are seeing are an indication of this. You could try a hair dryer while applying pressure to the flex (at the glass of the LCD). Try rubbing the flex at the glass and see if the lines change. As for the tuner, Sony used a vertical green line to indicate the tuning position. So if it were working, a green line would scroll left to right to match up with the numbers at the top.

[@joelevesque9878]

You should remove the solder from the pads of the leaking caps and clean the pads with IPA. Make sure the traces haven't been eaten away by the leaking fluid.

[@dizued]

Woah, I dreamed to get one of these when I was a child, now we all have a "mini TV" in our pocket 24/7. Times change.

[@charlesmurphy1510]

Well, not really. The phone costs money to operate and local channels? No. This was free over the air.

[@ianallen2]

Theres nothing in the florescent tube but gas that lights up when power is applied. :). No continuity will be shown as no fillament

[@sarah1390]

That's true for the most part. There is a Filament only at 1 end of the bulb that stays on until the gas heats up inside to start the transmission of electrons through the tube (The starter in the Ballast) that gives off UV lights then the phosphors that coat the inside of the bulb get excited giving us the light we are used to. But no wire like a tungsten filament bulb to give us continuity.

[@scaleop4]

its known as a cold cathode tube.

[@njm1971nyc]

Lol I love your perplexed thoughts on the delay line 😄 it's a very clever little component that sends ultrasonic waves through a piece of glass type material, with a transducer at one end (a "speaker") and another at the other end (a "mic") the time the wave takes to get through the glass (it's not a straight line, it bounces around inside in a very controlled manner) gives the required time delay to the signal. Common in all PAL video equipment. The tuning indicator on these TVs was a vertical on-screen line that moved across the screen. Oh...u just figured that out...ha 😄 I enjoy ur vids, it's the KZbin equivalent of sitting down with a nice cup of tea.

[@Cyberflow]

Tuner part is fine as you can hear the audio static in the background of some of the last video clips. The lcd itself is fine too as almost every pixels color is changing randomly. I'd suggest it's a timing issue, caused by a loose connection or some more bad caps.

[@bigt3242]

Vince m8 you forgot to clean away the electrolight from the leaked caps this is very corosive and will eat away at the copper tracks as for the delay line all colour tvs had adelay line in the colour circuit so that the luma circuit and the croma circuit would sync together they are very delicate so careful.

[@ExtremeBogom]

He said in the video that he did clean the fluid off, and that it was causing a bad smell.

[@GadgetUK164]

21 High Street is now a PDSA charity shop (according to Google) - I would replace the remaining caps before giving up! Some of them probably couple signals.

[@terrynorris2116]

Its Luminance delay line. I remember them from the old colour tube sets I worked on when I was a tv engineer. Its purpose is to delay the luma (b/w) part of the video info processing with the slower chroma signal which processesing. This ensures the luminance and chroma signals scan at the same time and no delay. Hence its name.

[@mikeb1013]

Once you get into TVs and other high frequency devices, capacitor selection for replacement becomes critical. Most high frequency circuits need "low ESR" capacitors and certainly good quality ones. The kit packs are usually generic low grade caps that are ok for general circuit tinkering but not up to demanding high frequency use. It may be that one or more of the replacement caps is messing with some tuned circuit. If you ever re-visit this I'd suggest ordering specific low ESR replacements from RS Components or similar. Ebay caps will pretty much be sub standard ones.

[@Fifury161]

17:50 - it's adds a delay to the signal, Dave from EEVlog has a good video on them (it's a rather complex subject!)

[@friendlyjapanesebusinesswoman]

Gonna enjoy this stress reliever before bed, thank you so much Vince

[@abdulhkeem.alhadhrami]

Me too.

[@philippberndt]

I do the same!

[@philippberndt]

You win some and you lose some. However, for me your videos are always a win 😊 Looking forward to the revisit video!

[@jochenwuerfel]

Oh yeah.. I remember those things. Not the Sony one, but I had one too.. borrowed from my neighbor for a couple weeks and it was awesome. Sat there, late at night with the antenna out under my blanket and watched some action movies.

[@swiftrick15]

Replacing a blown fuse with wire is asking for problems. I wonder what IC you fried. The blown fuse was an indicator, and you ignored it. Try a thermal camera now

[@8bitbubsy]

It's very possible that he didn't fry a single thing by jumpering that fuse. Just because it blows for a reason doesn't mean there has to be a constant short somewhere. My guess would be that the LCD itself didn't stand the test of time, as some LCD screens get internal connection issues as they age. Also note how he didn't replace every single SMD cap, that could also be the culprit. Some caps can look prestine and still be bad, especially those early 90s SMD ones.

[@tony359]

@@8bitbubsy still, replacing a fuse with a wire is asking for trouble. A 1A fuse is not so uncommon to buy and botch in for a quick test.

[@8bitbubsy]

@@tony359 Yep, it's definitely not good practice.

[@codebeat4192]

@@8bitbubsy A fuse is there to protect against damage, current is above normal, ignoring that is asking for trouble. A bad cap can make a short circuit (or very close) and stress other valuable (and sensitive) components like IC's on the board. A bad cap can also 'explode' or catch fire (Tantalum ones), not very nice to look at when investigating the problem. Remember there is also a high voltage section inside. I don't understand that he doesn't clean the board first before trying anything. Flux residue (I don't think that is a Sony issue but a earlier repair issue) and leaked electrolytic can conduct over time (first mistake before bypassing fuse), rinse it first before any try to power it up again. Beside that, he doesn't measure anyhting else except the fuse, not a good example (of order) to investigate the problem. Bypassing a fuse is not a good idea when you don't know exactly the condition of the board.

[@8bitbubsy]

@@codebeat4192 Thanks, but I'm well aware. I never said that it's good practice to replace a fuse with a wire, but I said that it doesn't *have* to mean that you'll break the device even further. Sometimes a fuse blows because of a temporary problem, of which replacing the fuse with a wire wouldn't cause futher damage (but it's still gambling, and I wouldn't recommend it).

[@tallyhorizzla3330]

I'm just happy they spelt colour correctly on the box.

[@lubomirrolko1967]

Hi, Vince. I've been enjoying your videos for some time. It'll be easy for a year. I always share your joy when you manage to fix something, find a mistake or precision soldering. You were an inspiration to start repairing things too. I do not mean it wrong, but finally to see that you are a normal person and not a repairing amateur God. In the last videos you may not succeed, but much of the way with progress to see there always. Therefore, thanks for every new video.

[@Operational117]

I'm noticing that M52003AFP-chip. It seems to be responsible for the video output. There's a handy datasheet for this chip if you just search for M52003AFP on Google. The first result should be from "AllDataSheet" (it's the one I used). If not, it's probably the second result. Otherwise, keep looking until you find it. It contains all the pin names (abbreviations anyway), voltage specifications and expected behavior of each pin. If the device suffered a major surge, that chip could be toasted. You could try to find the voltage going into and out of the chip (it's got Vcc and Vee pins, which are collector and emitter pins respectively, as well as a ground pin. From ground, Vcc pins should be 4.5V ± 0.5V, Vee should be -7.5V ± 0.5V (although I'm confused as the pins say "-Vee"...)). PS: Vcc is rated for a maximum of 13V, but it shouldn't be anywhere near that voltage (but it shouldn't be lower than 4V either)! You may also check for shorts between each pin and the ground. If they're testing out fine, try and check the peak-to-peak voltages for the Video Input, Chroma Input and External RGB Input pins (you're gonna need an Oscilloscope for that). The peak-to-peak voltage values should be: Video Input: 0.5V (500mV) Chroma Input: 0.1V (100mV) External RGB Input: 0.8V (800mV) And the pins should be (pin 1 being near the dot on the chip, counting counter-clockwise): Video Input: ?? (honestly, I'm struggling to find the correct pin(s) from the datasheet... someone else is going to have to scrutinate the datasheet for me and fill in the missing pin(s)) Chroma Input: 54 (not sure if any other pins count) External RGB Input: 13, 15, 16 (those were the EXT INs I found, corresponding to red, green and blue respectively) I may be missing information (Video Input in particular, because my brain couldn't truly decipher every pinout's meaning), but this is what I could find (should you, My Mate Vince, choose to NOT read the datasheet). Another chip of interest is the rectangular AN5707NS-chip. It's responsible for handling the tuner portion of the device (for the LCD problems, it's irrelevant of course). If the M52003AFP-chip isn't faulty, the LCD (or its board segment) may be. Of course, I may be grasping at thin air and actually end up providing no useful information this time. Once again, another great video to watch, and I hope to see a follow-up exploring that chip! 😊

[@MrKanejoe1]

I was in the same state a couple of weeks ago. I had repaired my Virtual Boy only to have it fail in the same way again...just around the same time I got a Sega lot and was only able to fully repair 1 of 4 items after trying everything I can think of...and somewhere in between I got a Commodore 64 that I assumed would be an easy fix and I have spent many hours trying to get it to work (it still doesn't). I guess we do this for the fun and that occasional moment of glory when things actually do work.

[@andysmoore]

It’s a PDSA charity shop. I don’t live in clacton on sea, I googled it. Would you ever consider a live trying to fix stream , Vince? It would be ace!

[@atkir003]

To heavy handed with the LCD it was working when you bridged the fuse. Then when you took it out and put it back in it then had some horizontal lines.

[@markemarkpsv1]

Having had several mini TV's back in the 1980's. I would bet a pound to a penny, someone bought a power pack from Tandy, the ones that do, 6v,9v,12v etc. It would appear to me they plugged it in set on 12v or higher. And possibly with the connector set too plus in the middle and negative on the outside. Thus creating a Serge, and incorrect polarity. Back in the 80's and 90's you couldn't get power adapters like you can today. 👍😎👍 MDS

[@stephencresswell4760]

7:54 another Kenneth Williams impression. 👍

[@sw6188]

This is very similar with the leaking capacitor damage to many Sony (and other brand) hand held video cameras. Once those SMD caps leak all over the board, the electrolyte gets down into the layers of the board and destroys the interconnect traces and/or causes low resistance paths between them. Once this happens it's game over. The only way you'd ever get it working again is to replace the entire PCB. Manufacturers did themselves no favors at all by using these awful SMD caps. Whether they knew they would end up leaking in this manner it's hard to say, but I've scrapped hundreds of things which have had them in and were destroyed in the same way.

[@rayl7335]

I have one of these since 1993 and still works perfectly fine. Althoung we here in USA have turned into digital since October 2009; I wont get rid of mine in case anything happens to our technology. I perform a test once a year to check functionality and clean the unit. This one is beautiful model and the TV image looks amazing. Hope you can be able to fix yours!

[@elchatarrasdetatooine8848]

It really is worth spending so much work on an obsolete device that will not work because of digital terrestrial television, or DTT, I have a similar and can not find channels because of DTT. I imagine that the same thing will happen As soon as you finish repairing it, a cordial greeting from Spain. I love your channel, and you always have my likes.

[@ftrueck]

I like the surface finish. Way better than rubber coating which becomes gluey and sticky.

[@briangoldberg4439]

I bought one of those about the same time as you, and I had to replace 100% of the surface mount electrolytics, but it works fine now. It's not super impressive by todays standards; it's not very bright and view angles are terrible, but it's fun

[@nghtrdr]

Vince, Awesome work my man! I have to say your soldering skills have improved dramatically. I still think you would show even more improvement with a station like the KSGER using the t15/t12 tips. Btw this looks to be an LCD connection issue.

[@NOWThatsRichy]

I've still got a Casio one, but not as elaborate as your one It still works though, except there is no analogue channels now!

[@annother3350]

Lets start Analogue pirate TV!!

[@tronixfix]

I got a Nordmende TR101 also still working

[@alanmunro888]

I had two of these. One was dead, but the other one worked very well. Got a good picture as the high power Sandy Heath transmitter is only 14 miles away. Sold them both on EBay before digital switchover.

[@Biffo1262]

I don't if anyone else has commented on it ;) but 21 High St is now a PDSA charity shop. I am surprised to see the Sharp Brand on a Sony product. Sanyo components yes but not Sharp. There was a Sharp factory in Newton Heath in Manchester who offered us, at the local fire station, big discounts. We took them up on it now and again but they weren't very good at all.

[@ftrueck]

Delay line: this is used to alter the travel speed of a signal. E.g. audio and video signals may be out of sync, so you can use a delay line to get them back to sync.

[@marcelvandenbroek537]

A delay line keeps the faster, luminance image in step with the slower, chrominance image. The narrowband chrominance signal requires more processing than the wideband luminance signal. ... The delay line assures that the two images start scanning across your screen at the same time.

[@scottfirman]

I have never had luck with those old units like that. Unlike some things, those units had a life time expectation and as you noted, the electronics has over time gone bad. You would think in this day and age we would be advanced enough to eliminate those capacitors. Modern TV's still use them as well as other chemical filled electronics that over time fail. Florescent bulbs go bad too, eliminating their usefulness. I find every video of yours valuable. I have a 27 volt out put wall charger that cannot be reduced in power. I tried wiring resistors in line and the thing is boosting the output back up to 27 volts. I need an 18 volt charger, not 27 volt. The stepper circuit board is reducing the voltage to 4. 4 volts intended for charging nicad batterys but again, still reduces the power to 4.5 volts. I am a bit upset because it was advertised as an 18 volt unit and its not.

[@CLC-1000]

Never heard of these but still great to see for an interesting video.

[@user-uf4qr7os4s]

For the tuning it works like this!! If the TV works properly, theres a red or green line appearing on screen which is synced to that scale on top of the screen. The channel buttons move that line left or right until you found a channel EDIT: reached the end of the video and you figured out yourself ;)

[@adrianwilliams717]

Its a PDSA charity Shop now!!

[@keithbstar1]

The linen shop next door was probably there.

[@spidermcgavenport8767]

Outstanding Sir. Thank you for all your knowledge on these devices.

[@spidermcgavenport8767]

Sir, I have a vintage Jensen KVS-4000 version of LCD TFT portable TV and half the screen is creating a strange every other pixel design on it which I may in the future take it apart and run a soldering iron across the ribbon wire or something to get it working again its a fantastic display for games. I watched your Phone LCD display repair video which is inspiring for me to try that on this device too.

[@andrews0208]

It is now a PDSA but I understand Bakers Television is now trading under the Euronics name

[@shodan6401]

Also, even earlier, I think in the late 70's (though my memory betrays me), Panasonic introduced the Panasonic Travelvision, with either a B&W or color CRT in an incredibly small, 1.5 inch screen. It was so small it literally included a magnifier to clip onto the screen. Hilariously, it also had a wrist strap if you wanted to look particularly sexy.... Probably the smallest color CRT ever made, and very rare.

[@SteS]

I remember being amazed how you could hold a TV in the hand. Although I also loved my calculator watch. Pretty easy pleased back in the day. 😂

[@stphinkle]

I am guessing that fuse and the higher voltage rating might be related to the LCD backlight inverter. The old ones were florescent needing a higher voltage.

[@yardh]

This is a gorgeous bit of kit mate. Tha ks for the vid

[@johndavies4919]

Great video. Same thoughts. Same conclusion. Do more. Good stuff.

[@michaelmcdonald2348]

those SM capacitors are the devil. I had similar leakage in a Bose wave system that leaked all over the audio section and caused the amplifier to fail. not a lot of pads left after removal so I had to trace the connections and solder further along. I always fit normal electrolytics if space allows. These things have written off a lot of expensive equipment (camcorders for one back in the day)

[@Xofttam]

I had a Casio portable tv when I was young, I loved it it was the best thing I owned, used to take it in the car all the time and watch the Simpsons at 6 on 2 when we were going home.

[@richardanderson5424]

My dad used to take his casio to bed and when I checked on him before I went to bed he was always watching “Prisoner-cell Block H”. He denied it saying that he thought it was a documentary about a female prison. Sold it on a boot sale as it was too small for anything except cell block really.

[@RobertParry-mp5zt]

Bakers fitted my Multi-Satellite Dish and Echostar Gear back in 1988

[@crmccluskey]

Looks like there isn’t a proper sync signal for the LCD. Not sure if this would be normal PAL sync signals, or if there is a A to D conversion to support the signal format for the LCD (if the latter it’s likely in one of those ICs). Was also thinking of the fuse. If there aren’t replacements, you can probably take a normal glass fuse of the same spec, and desolder (or break the glass jacket), and solder the filament from the fuse into the fuse case on the board. May be a little tricky to get solder to stick, but should be of the same properties as the original fuse.

[@Chained_Unicorn]

Someone posted a link to the service manual. From the schematics, I'd be focusing around IC 301 and working back to IC 201 and IC 103, but you'll probably need to break out the oscilloscope. Schematics also show F601 is feeding the input voltage (battery or 9v, positive inner, jack) to the power switch. Not that important since there's no power rail short. Good luck. Hoping for a revisit video.

[@MyDustyPickles]

Valiant effort, as always Mate! Better luck next time. :)

[@chrismifsud7154]

Such a shame you didn't get it working, it looks lovely. I've got a few of these pocket TV's myself, most of them are by Casio but I've also got an old black and white Watchman and a a colour Watchman and a Sinclair black and white one.

[@sarah1390]

Hey vince. watching the video I don't think it is a problem with the actual screen module itself. I think this is more of a mainboard chip or connection related. By the look of the black and the gobbldygook was showing on the screen I notice every few seconds that the pixels and the black bars that were showing on the right hand side of the screen were changing shape and even inverting colour. I think the problem is well before the LCD Driver. there should be a chip or chips before the LCD Driver that convert the signal received for UHF and VHF channels From what I was seeing all the pixels are lighting up and changing and if it were a dead pixel or problem with the LCD driver or the LCD then it wouldn't be changing at all or you would be seeing always a black or white bar. All the pixels were randomly changing and lighting different colours as well. Plus the black bars are most likely the screen displaying one of the Blanking inputs (I get mixed up between horizontal and vertical). Plus this is an educated guess but looking at the schematic that was posted earlier I would go after IC103 or IC301 on the Mainboard as it looks like these chips handle the significant part of the visuals and would mess up any signal that was input even AUX and if the rest of the chips are not receiving a signal then it makes sense why you wouldn't get your indicator lines. Plus when yyou first turned it on at the end there it sounded like the speaker was getting a constant electrical signal from most likely the faulty part until you fed in the aux signal from the Chinese machine which allowed the speaker to overpower that interference noise. Edit: I'm banking on IC103 or a track coming from there because most of the tracks that come from the IC103 are travelling through the area where the capacitors leaked their guts. Plus those two IC's I mentioned have a lot of connections coming from all inputs including the AUX for visuals. Just think of the Digital Pixelation of a standard tv signal today. The LCD driver is recieving faulty signals from the previous chips and displaying the gobbldygook that you were seeing on screen there including the random colour patterns and inverting white and black bars at the left hand side. Even for the familiar Analogue white snow to appear on that we expect to see the signals coming from the chips before that would have to be present and at their proper peak levels before the LCD driver can display what you deem as snow on the screen. The LCD driver is basically just an I/O device and if garbage is input then garbage is output. if the problem was with the screen or the LCD driver itself you would not see that change at all or it would just get worse with the number of pixels or lines not responding.

[@Chained_Unicorn]

Agreed. Hopefully Vince will see this and get the revisit underway :-)

[@AnonymousRepair]

@My Mate VINCE, Check all the tracks around the caps, they could have eaten the tracks, when ordering the caps use 105 degrees caps, they last longer, Replace all the caps! Geat video :-)

[@drstkova]

This is the answer. When just one capacitor being bad could explain these symptoms it’s not enough to say “I replaced 99 of the 100 caps”. The 100th might be the one causing the problem.

[@AnonymousRepair]

Had a computer shop bring me a monitor which they have replaced all the caps on the power supply with 85 degrees caps and the power supply would not worked , so thinking okay all the caps was replaced it must be the power ic, I tried everything but still nothing at the end i said well let's redo the caps to 105c and there the monitor worked, I could not believe that the caps was the fault

[@ovalwingnut]

RATED: 📺📺📺📺📺 👍😁 Always a fast paced & entertaining "repair ride along". Add that U.K. determination and outstanding camera work and you've got a Winner Winner Chicken Dinner (said a man from... Austria 🇦🇹, I think:) "Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall" {Confucious} 🇺🇸❤🇬🇧

[@brycehenson4345]

I found what you are looking for I think that the LCD screen might be bad yes the red and green light should show is the switch working correctly. Shape ttransistor did not look right to me I would change it out keep it up you don't give up you get it to work too bad you can't use a color game boy screen to test it enjoy all your videos Bryce

[@chezsnailez]

FYI - 21 High Street was a charity shop as of Google Street View's last pass in 2019 - Google does list it as still open for business.

[@PUHCsi]

Did you solder the wire back on, or did I miss that bit?

[@TheLastPhoen1x]

Ribbon cable is not clamped in fully or bent somehow, I suggest pulling it out, cleaning it and making sure it is connected in the clamp properly.

[@eddiecollins459]

Is there still Analog tv where you are at? All TV in the US went Digital and analog tv doesn't work anymore without a HDTV converter..

[@PetRatty]

looks like the old slow scan radio sets used to transmit pictures you useto get, is that the lcd or your cameras frame rate.

[@davidbrown8303]

They where state of art in its day. It was almost like a flat panel. I believe it is like new because people nowadays that buy away from home devices use them once or twice and pack it away in a back of the closet.

[@Mobin92]

"I must make sure not to touch the tube" ... proceeds to touch the tube.

[@iaincowell9747]

When there's power going through it.

[@Operational117]

@@iaincowell9747 Everything's fine when there's no power going through it... ... except capacitors. Never trust capacitors after shutdown.

[@Mobin92]

A tube like old TVs had them is basically like a capacitor charged to several thousands of Volts though, even when not plugged in. This however was really just some little neon tube...

[@MyklBlue69]

Am I totally dense, but is it not giving the red or green lines because its an analogue device and there's no analogue signal any more? I know it doesn't help the screen issue. Just a thought.

[@DjResR]

The AV input ground should be tied to negative rail of power supply, you can check it that way. Also you need high voltage to light fl. tube._

[@lamtatyan]

We will wait for the revisit Vince.

[@NOWThatsRichy]

My one just shows a snowy screen like you normally used to see with any analogue TV also displays a thin green vertical line as a tuning indicator. I think your TV could have been damaged by someone connecting the wrong type of mains adaptor, (too higher voltage or wrong polarity +/-) Possibly why the fuse had blown.

[@shodan6401]

No, the original Color Watchman came out much earlier, with a roughly five or six inch CRT screen, with impressive image quality for a direct RF or UHF feed, since there's no longer any OTA TV stations. It also required an outlet, no batteries. But I still love it and wanted it more than crack cocaine when I was a kid....

[@ianallen2]

For the input, shouldnt there be 3 plugs into one, Red, White and Yellow ? Power, Audio and Video ? I would have thought so as it is a tv set.

[@pegtooth2006]

I bet I could repair that for just under 500£ Lol, as always I enjoyed this probing into the guts of a new, unusual patient. I used to own one that was a CRT but seem to project onto an angle coated metal surface. The display was a grayish white to black. It was chunky in the hand about the size of two chins processed sandwich meat tins.

[@phonotical]

It may infact have worked, games consoles tune to channel three sometimes five, did you try?

[@huaweitablet1839]

21 High street is now a PDSA Charity shop.

[@evildiesel1709]

Yep, I checked too on street view PDSA:)

[@reacey]

If it bares any similarity to a laptop lcd.. The ribbon supplying the lcd will have a 3v supply on some of the pins, and the rest will be signal pins, the 3v usually has more than one pin dedicated to it because its higher load, so this is how you can find which one it is without the schematic, I'd check to see if you have this voltage on the screen ribbon

[@mdamaged]

26:02 still less donglage than a modern apple product.

[@jamesmorton-m6tzo396]

21 High Street in Clacton is now a PDSA charity shop

[@nathanmead140]

The right side of the screen looks like it is broken, there might be a way to replace it with a brand new one but getting another broken one that does nothing but the screen is good would probably be cheaper. Sharp made the screens in the PSP 2000 and 3000 systems. Sharp, LG, philips, Samsung and Toshiba make most of the best LCD and LED displays.

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

Awsome video i realy hope you do a revisit!

[@ferotakis]

16:25 is the smartest moment to measure CFL tube like that 😂🙈

[@Raptor50aus]

The later model with a radio I have a like new one which works great and different board design. I have an analogue tv transmitter.

[@jamesw242]

Always wanted one out the Argos catalogue

[@mrsteward30odd]

Vince I moved to clacton on sea bakers is now the p.d.s.a charity shop 21 High Street 😀👍

[@ArreglandoCosas]

Vince! You skipped your reaction while editing! We missed when it turned on! Great vid!

[@mrchrome5403]

Hi there Vince could you share a link for them mixed surface mount capacitors and regular through hole capactiors please id like to see them and maybe purchase some for repairing pc monitors also keep up the awesome vids love coming home to see a relaxing repair vid helps me wind down and relax with a cup of tea after a long day of stacking food in a freezer :D.

[@willproctor7301]

Is it a clock problem?, it looks like the display is not refreshing fast enough. You're good with crystals ;) Maybe something like that.

[@squallneko5004]

Sorry to hear that it didn't work out for you Vince. Hopefully, you have a better winning streak.

[@proaz4034]

thank you for trying make it working 👏👏👏

[@fuzzybobbles]

The address is now a PDSA charity shop. So not all bad news.

[@ftrueck]

Display issue: looks like the video signal is not translated properly for the screen. My guess: the screen is analogue and therefore has red green and blue channels like a crt had. If so it relys on propper timings of the signals to display correctly.

[@benjaminprice2113]

It would be good if you could mode this to a small Freeview box inside this case and working portable handheld tv

[@TheSlysterII]

Hmm, 2 failure vids in a row, and a Jedward cd involved in both...use the force Vince, or a brick to destroy this cd of the dark side, and I am sure you will get back to winning ways lol! Success or failure, your videos are always entertaining, thanks Vince :)

[@codebeat4192]

Do a mod, put an old smartphone (with USB OTG support and an Arduino (Pro Micro, Leonardo)) in it or a raspberry pi (zero W plus or more advanced and a screen with the same size) to make it shine again (when you are unable to fix it). You can keep the controls and reuse it so nobody will notice there is brand new tech inside, could be fun! There is enough room inside to keep the classical aesthetics, could be a brilliant project and a good example to reuse a case of old equipment, instead of buying new or 3D print a new case.

[@drEmulatorMadmax]

testing by using tweezers is very risky, i prefer to use an adjustable power supply that has current limiting properties and an amp meter , that way you can see how much more current is being drawn and then check chips for heat with your finger or a temp meter, i've found that sometimes fuses just blow for no good reason , but most of the time their is something that has shorted out

[@julieboruta]

You never soldered the cable to the screen back on.

[@samt4202]

The LCD looks fine due to it displaying different things depending on what it is doing. I am going to guess that some of the remaining caps are the cause of the issue or a through hole via (a trace that goes from one side of the board to the other) has been corroded away by the leaking caps.

[@f1ggyc]

On street view it's a charity shop now

[@LogiForce86]

21 High Street, Clacton-On-Sea... in the year 2020 has since become a PDSA Charity Shop, or so it seems.

[@coldfire0101]

vince, the tuner indicator will be on the screen, you get a coloured line going from top to bottom and thats your tuner indicator

[@savneetsinghrairai6823]

May be high voltage fuse is for rear CFL tube to lit SCREEN