Nanga Parbat Expedition 1953

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The first ascent of Nanga Parbat ( 8126m ), 1953
This historic documentary film is for educational purposes only. It is up-scaled into HD for a better viewing experience on social media. Visual Works Inc. (www.visualworks.pk) does not hold any copyrights of this video.
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Following description is retrieved from [www.himalayama... ]
First ascent of Nanga Parbat ( 8126m )
Rakhiot Flank - East Ridge, Himalaya, Pakistan, 3 July 1953
Climbed by Hermann Buhl.
Team members: Karl Herrligkoffer, Walter Frauenberger, Peter Aschenbrenner, Fritz Aumann, Albert Bitterling, Kuno Rainer, Otto Kempter, Hermann Kollensperger, Hans Ertl
Porters: Ali Madad, Hadje Beg, Hidaya Khan, Madi
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Nanga Parbat was climbed for the first time in 1953, by a German expedition. The summit was reached by Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, climbing alone on the summit day. Supplementary oxygen was not used on the summit bid, and does not seem to have been used by the expedition except for medical purposes. Buhl took the drug Pervitin (methamphetamine) during his solo climb to the summit and back.
Nanga Parbat is situated in Pakistan at the western extremity of the Himalaya. It is the ninth highest mountain in the world and was the third of the world's 8000m peaks to be climbed, after Annapurna and Everest.
The expedition was led by Karl Herrligkoffer and was made up of a further nine climbers from Germany and Austria (including photographer and film-maker Hans Ertl, who was at that time based in Bolivia). The climbers were supported on the mountain by a team of Hunza porters. In addition, arrangements had been made for five Sherpas to join the expedition from India. However they were turned back at the India-Pakistan frontier in Kashmir.
The expedition approached the mountain from the north. This route had first been explored by a German expedition in 1932. It was generally thought to offer the only feasible line of ascent, despite some early exploration on the Diamir side (which has subsequently turned out to be more or less the normal route).
From a base camp at just under 4000m beside the Rakhiot Glacier, the route crossed the northeast flank of the mountain, beneath the avalanche-prone Rakhiot Wall, to gain the east ridge at a feature called the Moor's Head. From here the way lay up the East Ridge, over the Silbersattel and the Silver Plateau to a 7850m fore-summit, and then across the Bazhin Gap to the the main summit of Nanga Parbat.
It is an extremely long and complex route, covering a distance of 18 km with a height gain of 4625m.
The highest point previously reached on the mountain was a point just below the fore-summit., reached in 1934 by Peter Aschenbrenner and Erwin Schneider.
A storm then struck and the large group of climbers established at the top camp decided to retreat. Three German climbers and six Sherpas died during the descent. Aschenbrenner was one of the survivors. He became the climbing leader of the 1953 expedition.
One of those who died in 1934 was Willi Merkl, leader of the expedition and step-brother of Karl Herrligkoffer, who was 17 years old at the time. It was this that propelled Herrligkoffer - a doctor but not a climber - into initiating the 1953 expedition.
Buhl was treated for his frostbite injuries in hospital first in Gilgit, and then in Lahore. In the end he lost two toes.
The climbers were feted in the villages they passed through, and there were cries of "Germany Zindabad" ("Long Live Germany"). In Karachi all the expedition members were presented with medals by the President of Pakistan.