#15 WHO ACTUALLY PAYS FOR SURFERS TO TRAVEL & HOW STRIKE MISSIONS ACTUALLY WORK

[@andrewbell5142]

We've run the numbers, collected the data, done the research - stick with the random setup. More real. A podcast studio would be too sterile. Love your work lads.

[@wcc1212]

100%.

[@skyfish1]

Ditto

[@killbill5486]

agreed, it's like the difference between surfing different spots or a wavepool.

[@loki475]

as long as they got those big ass mics 😁

[@FrankBott]

only Podcast on the planet with different setup every week.. love it.. i need one of those chairs..

[@SkipBee]

Great work fellas, keep it up. You should get Mama Florance on the show. Would be cool to hear her stories of you guys as groms.

[@r.d.thomas5253]

Hey, you guys are the best podcast...real to the core no deco & etc. So great to keep the home bro feel for us out here pushing to get buy and realizing our passion of surfing isn't as available in everyday routine..Nathan your Father and you were awesome when he came to Hawaii...because he's like a lot of us works hardcore to just get out in the water..get Eddie Rothman on too as your mom Nathan..Aloha..Love to hear from KOA's legend Hawaiian Pops... Blessings, and much positives..your way guys👍👍👍👍☝️🤙🤙

[@djweeks_maui]

Good call. We would love to hear from the world's utmost surf mom!

[@SuiGenerisAbbie]

Mom John! Yeah, gotta get the Mama bear on. And, how about Koa's mom, too, hey!

[@jimwhitehead6265]

I came here to say the same thing and saw this comment. Agree absolutely. To you guys shes just mom but that woman isn't just a regular mom. Shes 100% rad.

[@SteveStJean-ee4uu]

MomJohn and/or Koa's DAD! 😁

[@mctowery]

Your podcast is great! I think people would be interested in what it was like growing up with each of your very unique families. Nate's mom raising her three boys and Koa's dad being Eddie Rothman and being Makua's brother. Also just hearing about what it was like growing up on the North Shore. It's all so special and it is really great being able to support you guys!

[@teunhabraken3075]

We want the Nature vs Nurture Episode!

[@w2thet589]

Yeah 💯 this would be fire

[@w2thet589]

Bring on Eddie

[@1313aves]

Yes I agree!!!

[@albertbos2113]

this would be so sickkkkkkk

[@Sickos]

it's cool to see how genuine you two are together, you both definitely make a solid match and are tastefully introspective. Cool podcast guys

[@drewdahlberg9178]

You should buy one of those 20 breadstick surfboard models Koa has been trying for 5 years to make and have a surf contest between all of you guys on it. Maybe message Koa to collab on it :)

[@joeblow1942]

I like this. Just two dudes chilling on BarcaLoungers talking story.🤙🏼

[@dougwalmer8620]

I'm 61, surfed for 50 yrs and still learned from u guys. Keep it up!

[@gmoney0077]

So cool to see such talented athletes like Koa and Nate turn their passion into flourishing business careers…..common thread is great parents that raised them well! Sponsors and companies seek out people like these two champs to propel their brands for a reason!

[@luizs.f5305]

This is hands down the "best surf podcast" on the internet! 🤙🏄🍻

[@anhquocn]

Nate, you’re genuinely my favorite professional surfer bc of your genuine stoke and appreciation for what you do. Surfing is definitely behind in the podcast game and you and koa have this great opportunity to be one of the best podcast that represents surfing today. You guys need to model your podcast like the nine club. The way they talk about skateboarding on that podcast is exactly how surfing should be talked about. The most interesting aspect of listening to a podcast is the feeling like you’re listening on to someone else’s conversation, two or more experts talking about the thing they love in the most minute, nerdy, and uncensored way. It’s so epic. Even the most mundane things you think about when it comes to pro surfing is the most interesting things regular ppl find fascinating. Like I want to know stuff like how do you guys purchase your plane tickets and do you try to get the best deals or do you just buy it no matter what bc you need to be at XYZ location at a specific time so cost isn’t a factor? If there’s multiple options for swell chasing going on during a similar time period, which do you choose and why? Which pro surfers are the nicest? Which ones are the biggest dicks? How much racism did you and your brothers encounter growing up on the north shore and when did it stop? Pipe use to be ruled by the Wolfpack, with kala and Andy and Bruce’s gang, what was that like back in the day and how has the dynamic change at pipe today? It also seems like your generation doesn’t party much or so drugs, an you talk about the impact of Andy’s death on the modern pro surfers decision to be clean and just be soul surfers? What do you guys think about Kelly? Is he the goat? Is he nice? Or is he a cocky dick? Can you even talk about any of this stuff that ppl really want to know? Or is the community so small that rocking the boat is just a bad idea bc they might kick your ass if you guys shared your real thoughts about this stuff? Also I find it so amazing that you’re so positive about John johns success, was there a time period where you felt jealous and resentment? And if so, how did you change your attitude? Is there allot of pressure being johns younger brother? Do you and Ivan ever feel dwarfed by your older brothers success? I feel like deep dives like this, and into surf culture of what it use to be and what is now, and the evolution of tricks and what you guys view as badass, or also what’s your thoughts on how shitty the world tour is? Can you get into the details of why it’s so awful and why it hasn’t improved in the last 10 years and why it’s only getting worse? Is there allot of politics? Are the ppl who are in charge just old out of touch lizards that don’t understand how to take modern pro surfing into the modern era? Why is the WSL so frustrating to watch? And why are the judges so retarded sometimes? Can you guys talk about that in detail without getting in trouble? Anyway, Nate, you’re the best, keep doing what you’re doing. You’re way more interesting and entertaining to watch than any other pro surfer out there right now. You’re killing it, bc your vibe is genuine and your stoke looks so real. Thanks for the content 🤙🏾

[@Bgrowz-confidentcake]

I would love to see either of your parents on as guests, I bet they both have incredible stories

[@rich7017]

I don't know about anyone else but I'm not actually bothered about guests I love just watching these 2 boys chatting shit, so easy to watch. Great stuff

[@Eld4rZ]

I like how literally every episode starts with “episode x , are we already on x?, we should check”

[@WavesoftheWorld]

Quality content boys. Lots of good life saving info and knowledge of wave riding. This will help people save lives and teach others to do the same.

[@jackolson7735]

The best pod ever. Dying for some merch. Will be on north shore at the end of June

[@adammazor]

Crazy you guys drop this today. Was just wondering yesterday how Nate pays for the slab tour! You know what the audience wants haha

[@AlexMurr]

I got a mini-story. I was in Jersey during hurricane Larry and saw Nate and Eli way out the back. Did a double take cuz I didn’t expect to see them out there. I thought to myself, damn, they are far AF out there. Next thing I know I’m getting get rekt by a clean up set. Also, seeing Eli paddle into a wave in person shocked me. I did not know one could be physically capable of paddling so fast.

[@seblivefloormanager]

Sterling work as usual gents. Thoroughly enjoyable, and keeping it lo-fi and real. You defo don't need a studio 😂 Funny, casual and cautionary, "when in doubt..." Thank you 😊✨️🤙

[@keithallison3756]

Fricken love your guys podcast! You both keep it so real and make an old 50 year old semi- kook psyched to keep following surfing. Congrats on the " Breadstick" Koa. Long awaited.Keep sending it & stoked to see the next one.

[@davidtown6825]

Awesome show! Thank you

[@ChristineHolmes-t3p]

hearing you both interact is so real. Only life long friends have your unique rap. I did like Koa’s kitchen set up , but where ever you continue your shares and information is great. Keep going, and I agree that having Alex ( mom) on your pod cast would be a different vibe but as a mom myself, I’d like to hear from her.

[@Di13F]

Proper professional advice. thank you😉

[@AgSummerStudios]

Koa, please have your dad on the podcast! Would love to hear his surfing stories!

[@jakebarr]

just saying, but like boards, you can have the same cricket bat made a 100 times and each one will feel different. a magic bat is a feeling to behold! just like a magic board. i reckon the same is true for other sports. golfers prefer certain clubs, and i think tennis players stick with their favourite rackets, until they smash them on the court out of frustration! love your work boys.

[@michaeljenkins791]

Yep, thinking the same thing. It’s pretty obvious all these guys do is surf……

[@nrgplay26]

Like the new desk and big chairs!

[@thisisthelife6190]

Getting pretty good at this guys keep em coming 🤙🏽

[@brentley1121]

Never realized how making musical instruments and surfboards were similar until this discussion. Smashing a board at pipe is a rock star destroying a guitar lol

[@Bryan-jd7os]

I was thinking the same thing, Guitars are very similar to surfboards.

[@TribeOfSkate]

Would love to see some Tahiti merch made and some proceeds from purchases going to helping out the people out there . 🤙🙏🏼. Love the podcast, love how authentic you keep the convo’s . Mahalo for everything.

[@EllEss331]

That's such a good idea!

[@solomon6082]

REAL ONE

[@solomon6082]

You are a king … here is your crown my brother 👑

[@Zero.0ne.]

Great episode! I think glassing is the biggest board variable. The fibers will never lay out the same twice, which greatly effects the board's structure. As mentioned, even Firewire tech has variables that pros can feel. I wonder how long it will be before some fully automated perfect construction emerges.

[@N3vDawg]

Where've you guys been? I need a new episode!

[@kevinnoble7532]

Awesome podcast - always been interested in the business behind how you guys get to travel / etc so this was super interesting.

[@dannylovato3248]

Lmao😅 I love it… you guys get swankier every time I pull you up!!! I can’t wait to see what will be in the next podcast scene. May I recommend a King Gerry Lopez piece of art behind Nate’s head.

[@ML-jx9bl]

Great Podcast !!

[@benandben619]

Let’s go boys love the poddd

[@AwarenessItself-vv3zy]

Great guys, so much fun listening to your conversation😊. Thank you🙏. I'm not a surfer, but I love the ocean and I'm really fascinated about the high level you're practicing your art and the passion you have for it. Please, keep going ❤

[@joserossell2734]

Love the pod guys!

[@dennistait-jamieson1702]

Super cool !! It is epic. Merch is a golden idea. Solid effort.

[@aidenSDIB]

So fun to listen to the pod cast discussions. I also agree with one of the comments below about the glossing and sanding as the biggest variable with boards being able to make exact duplicates. I have done about a dozen boards myself from start to finish and glassing has the most variables. Even the brand of resins or epoxy differs plus you have to mix the 2 parts being mindful of humidity and temperature. Lastly for the alcohol start up you guys should do hard kambucha I recently discovered it and love it. Shoots boyz 🤙🤙

[@potsmonster]

keep up the good work boyz

[@surferkoa]

Few years ago when I was 12 I think I got rejected paddling in then some locals showed up and convinced me to go back out with them swell built pretty much 15 foot close outs and I was terrified started crying so I just realized I’m not catching a wave in and waited for a lull and booked it in got worked but made it safe.

[@lucashildreth5692]

This info is so invaluable! Thank you for sharing !

[@AlecMerlino]

Sick episode! I like the break down of the story's. Question/story: I grew up in San Clemente and live in Carlsbad now. Surf a decent amount but more for fun, which end up being shorter sessions. My question is. I do a lot of triathlon and know that during my longer bike rides usually 5-7.5 hours that after a certain point your body can "bonk" if you're not fueling. When you guy's are surfing for 2-4 hours, have you ever had a sketch situation where you're fully depleted of calories, electrolytes, etc; and struggle to even make it in or get caught in sketchy places trying to get it?

[@christianblake2179]

Not surfing anything near what they do, but I surf 3-4 hours sessions often, eat well before and if you’re getting tired be smart. Just make sure you have energy to deal with the waves you’re surfing, a tumble, or avoiding other surfers. If you feel like the waves are sketch don’t stay out until you can’t deal with the situation. Also make sure you know where you’re surfing before sending sketchy stuff or be a pro

[@lau-guerreiro]

Another great podcast. Great stories and info. I like the new setup.

[@chrisculpen9205]

Congrats on the new board model Koa. Clarification: Remember Pyzel can't do a board in one day, but I can. Love making yall boards. 😁😜🔥🤙🏼

[@daveallen4752]

great stuff chaps. would be good to hear your board-bag packing tips n tricks

[@tyrelvanrensburg1119]

I’d love to hear how you guys pack your boards so they don’t arrive damaged. My boards often arrive with cracks and damage. Keep up the good work.

[@Maria247m]

By the way, its very stupid. They can leave their boards in Tahiti and not to take them every time in the trip!

[@tyrelvanrensburg1119]

@Maria what is very stupid? I asked because in the video they speak about taking at least 4 boards with them

[@Maria247m]

@@tyrelvanrensburg1119 Taking boards to Tahiti is stupid. Maybe, they just dont know how to make life more easy!

[@xwhite2020]

@@Maria247m Congratulations you win todays dumbest internet user. Well done.

[@Maria247m]

@@xwhite2020 Read my first comment here 🙄 Its very good idea - to leave their boards in Tahiti and come there with the small bag only! They come to Tahiti twice in a year, so their boards will wait them there! If you dont understand - you are so silly man )))

[@godfreybala6868]

Every time I go on a surf trip (Mentawais, Mexico, Nicaragua, El Sal) I leave behind either a board, rashguards, board shorts, gotta show gratitude and respect and leave the place a better more positive place then when you got there 🙏🏽🤙🏾

[@paulmichaelmark]

Great podcast lads, keep it up

[@chriskaszuba9041]

You guys are GNARLEYYYYY!!!!!!! Rock on

[@mooboo6603]

Tennis rackets vary by about 10grams which makes a massive difference! Pros use lead strips to make it even

[@kieranjames9229]

Question for the next podcast, because you guys get free boards through your sponsors do you repair your boards when you get puncture dings or do you just order a new board?

[@quvidesigns3204]

Love the pod! Just started surfing 3 years ago and made the worst kook early on. I had just purchased a new board that I wanted to test out after work so I rushed to the pier, put on minimal wax and no rash guard. Body was slipping and I didn’t realize the current was going into the pier so literally 5 min of me getting in the water I’m wrapped around the pier getting held down and finally make up all cut up and new board with multiple holes 🥺 lesson learned tho to always check the current haha cheers!🤙🏽

[@solomon6082]

😂 when in doubt.. never rush and force things.. things usually end up broken that way..

[@Sol_Weird]

Hey guys! Had no idea ya'll actually leave gear with groms/locals, and think that's so cool, more so, knowing you guys already sacrifice so much to get over there and surf.

[@1313aves]

My husband and I love your podcast so much! I love hearing stories of tough paddle outs or things going wrong 😅 it feels like a behind the scenes lol! Also for merch, I think a bottle opener would be cool but I always love a good sweatshirt as well.

[@wpgboy1000]

Ya boys!! Haven’t missed one!! Love it! And do t get a studio. doing it raw is way more real. Jamie’s new studio doesn’t feel right feels too white and sterile. Not to dis JOB but you guys are doing it well!

[@stephenieblakemore4754]

Moms as guests on your podcast...would love to see that...even if it is not around Mother's Day.

[@Fishifyed]

Killin it y’all! Looking good!

[@jonnyh7936]

The Magic board thing is so frustrating, I have heard a theory about relative humidity when the blank is being blown as being a point of difference as well....snapping / losing a magic board is like losing a best friend

[@elijahguillemin2607]

Keep it up amazing stuff!!

[@garyrobinson4847]

Nathan koa jack thank you 😃🤙 keep spreading the love guys 🌅

[@solomon6082]

When are you premiering your next podcast with chat?

[@felipepassos942]

Have any of you been to Angola? sick secret waves out there

[@freekick129]

These podcasts are so good!!

[@TruthIsNot4Sale]

You two are such good souls!😊

[@808BJJ_Black_Belt]

Great advice 👍I wish I knew that before I almost drowned NS sunset paddled out 4-6 ft within one hour 8-12 ft got caught in the impact zone got pounded 6 huge waves blew out all my air and energy sucked in water and fading out. Thank goodness I ended up on the shore 🤮 water

[@laurelgeorge3766]

It would be fun to hear from Mahina on here! Maybe what it’s like as a wife/girlfriend of a pro surfer? Her surfing stories etc

[@waileiad.5690]

I think stickers would be mayjah, and maybe yeti cups or like sleeve covers for cups. Hoodies, shirts, and hats are always a win too.

[@ZacDenholm]

Great work fellas' Nat with the slab tour in full swing and have surfed most of the continents which has the most fun, sketchiest and the probably shouldn't have? Koa have you got any projects coming up, like nats slab tour? Cheers

[@robertoz7608]

You guys messing with Pyzel is so funny ! LOL

[@smalltowninnewmexico]

rad podcast lads!

[@AndrewCooperr]

What waves would you guys like to see on the CT? What spots do the surfers on tour want to compete at?

[@giuseppe2395]

Is there ever going to be an episode 16; maybe once you're back in Hawaii?

[@TM-qx1vk]

We're gonna sell more boards than John John. LMAO! Love the confidence boys! Keep up the good work with the content and the slabs. Cheers!

[@diegosellanes9147]

Hey, love the podcast! Im usually a spotify listener, would be nice to have the videos uploaded over there aswell.

[@the_beef4762]

Awesome you give boards the kids. You make their life. What site or how do you track swells all over the world?

[@LUCKYMONKEY230]

hey the podcast is really cool, i recommend using a windshield on the mic to avoid noise .. just a tech tip. regards

[@coryspringthorpe4692]

I built board blanks here in Australia on the Gold Coast. I would often feel the blanks and I would often also feel good blanks and "The Ones" haha! It's a real fine art to poor a blank.

[@SteveStJean-ee4uu]

Love this stuff. Keep up the great work. Regarding the always controversial topic of localism, here's a EPISODE TOPIC IDEA: Special guest Eddie and/or Kala and/or Kaiborg on to discuss Black Shorts > Wolf Pak > current enforcement culture (or lack thereof). No more lickens these days, and the result is the kookfest lineups you allude to here.... or so it would seem to this Haole, anyways.

[@JammaLamma]

I got stuck out at Acid Drops on South side of Kauai after dark there's just one like ten foot wide little spot to get in and out of the water and while i was looking for a wave to ride in- it was non stop for an hour straight- and this one other guy was out I was like okay as long as he's out here I'll get one more- yup so he goes in waves turn off and I'm waiting and waiting, finally i turn around to go in and wtf a current had apparently popped up and dragged me like a half mile toward the west, i had to paddle against the current then all the way in. Not sketchy like I'm gonna drown but it took me half an hour easy in pitch black night, I was scared a shark was gonna eat me. It wasn't fun.

[@suekelly3910]

Surf Question, please explain: You‘re in the barrell, the tube is getting narrow, you make yourself small, you see that the barrell will close. You can‘t come out, you can‘t dive through the back, you can‘t jump off the board. How do you prepare or what body position do you take before the wave eats you? Is there another way than going over the falls? Greatest podcast, greatest Videos thank you both!!!

[@kylewattssurfing3266]

Great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great times infinity podcast!!!!!! The Vibes the surfboard knowledge the travel knowledge the industry knowledge and everything in between is complete every volcano on planet Earth times the Sun amazing and I wish you guys would have started sooner but now that you're older and wiser try the best time to do it and I hope you guys never quit because if you keep posting I'ma keep listening!!!!!!!!! Thank you and Maaaaaaaahhhhhhhaaaaaaaaloooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@ryanmiller6146]

Do you feel like you are at the peak of your careers now? Do you think a lot about the life after surfing and how do you prepare for that?

[@TeamNowhereMuayThai]

Got a story for you guys!! Bit of an opposite to your story of the old boys telling the you it's gonna be OK on a big day. Be me, 29 years old beginnerish surfer (3 years surfing) and travelling aus in a van and surfing the country. I get to Margaret River and I was seriously doubting go out. I was pacing up and down the van trying to figure out if I would be OK or not. It was only a small day, 4-5ft but I was still freaking out as it was a new spot, main break margs is also hectic and probably out of my skill level . My partner kept telling me I would be OK but I was really in my head. I stepped outside our van and I noticed a lil 6 year old girl grom getting her gear on with her dad. I thought to my self. Dude if she can do it so can I. I walked over to them and introduced my self, told them it's my first time and I would love to hang with them if it was possible. The dad was an absolute legend and invited me in with them. We paddled in through the keyhole and past the surgeons table. The current was gnarly and I remember thinking, 'this water will do what ever it wants to do, I've got no control here'. I was freakin We made it out to the line up and it was just us 3 out there. He gave the nod for his daughter to take the first wave and so she did. She took a wipe out. She paddled back to us with tears in her eyes, dad then looks at her and says 'you ok?' she replied with a tiny little nod and then wiped her tears out of her eyes. The next wave came and he gave her the nod again. She took it and ripped it up! Here I am as a 29 year old professional fighter feeling scared out of my mind. Yet a tiny little girl probably more terrified then me, was giving it her best go and not listening to her fear. Cant describe the amount of inspiration she gave me. The next wave came and the dad gave me the nod. I paddled hard, I popped up and remember looking down at the reef just under the water. I planted my front foot and shot down the wave, going faster then I ever have before. I got to the end of the wave feeling like a conquerer (of my fear). Thank you to the lil girl grom which showed me it was all gonna be OK

[@tubethis777]

Love the synergy between these 2 amigos. Fun, casual convos filled with surf intel. In contrast, I saw Jamie O'Brien's podcast and reminded me of the movie Speed Racer, way too much candy for my liking.

[@mikegrayable]

Awesome podcast! Honest open stories that we your fans want to hear 🤙🏼

[@markfitzurka9995]

From first episode to this one you guys did in 2 months. You hit the ground running. You guys got the editing and audio perfect in about 12 episodes but by the time you guys got to this one its almost flawless. I don’t think you need a studio just a couple lazy boys and the boom microphones. I have been on a long car ride and I am starting to realize you guys are not doing them as often. I hope you guys get back to the more steady release dates. now I am almost caught up and it turns out you might not be around anymore. I hope you guys are doing well I wish I was able too get some merchandise like a donkey in a safety vest. Anyway I will keep my subscription updated even if you’re not updating new episodes. It has definitely helped me get through this long drive

[@patrick03333]

I confirmed podcast 15 indeed 🔥

[@boblyle8121]

Great conversation, as usual!

[@lulubert001]

can you pleeeaaase do a explanation on how to best wipe out in barrels with different scenarios keep it up though, awsome and real funny to listen to you guys 👌✌️

[@jameslangridge1674]

Nate has a vid on that on his own channel. Very informative.

[@garyevora8369]

Darry’s brother on the evening session at Logs. I was the fortunate one who got drilled by the first set and was sent to the beach before dark. Scary seeing your friends out there knowing they are starting to freak. Back then no real surf forecasting so we really didn’t even know.

[@renocristobal7452]

LOve your podcasts you guys are truly Major League!!!!

[@Dolphinteeth__]

Does surfing for you guys ever feel like a “job” or where you have to go and force yourself to do it or are you guys always having tons of fun when you surf??

[@colemandupont7502]

Love the pod boys

[@jonerikdevries5451]

Love the podcast! Question: Say someone visits North Shore to surf. Would it be well received to try and ask locals say on the beach for advice on where to surf dependant on their level/crowds etc. Or would you automatically get the "We don't really want you to surf here go home" treatment? Say you two would you take time to answer someone asking you that? Maybe explain a bit a good progression for visitng the north shore to surf for the first time as a non-pro. What you have seen people do riht and what you have seen them do wrong for your average weekend warriors wanting to surf there.

[@jonathansonnier3078]

30 boards a season is a pretty sick sponsor he probably has to sell 60 to break even wit time in production. But man t has to be worth it to him because of the business you bring in just riding Pyzel

[@Fishifyed]

Merch ideas: Nate’s crazy workout tee, wax comb, key chains, Koa shorts, and sick surf bucket type hat

[@troymine6221]

Koa sells bucket hats on his website

[@chancegarcia4718]

And Koa’s I ❤ ass stickers

[@Beloved-of-the-Divine]

​@@chancegarcia4718 😂😂

[@1010AD]

Great podcast, always so interesting hearing about the stuff I'd probably never know about when following surfing. Be interesting to see you both get an interview with one of the surf photographers/filmmakers, the ones that bob about with the helmets on right in the surf. Always thought, do those guys get dragged over the falls?????

[@jc823]

Random unconnected thing that’s like boards, I go through several boxes of saxophone reeds to find a good one that’s just right.

[@brikin4936]

Hey guys great points you made. I would like to know do you ever come out to the Outer Banks and surf? I know it's not huge but hurricane season has some good sets out here. Keep up the good work. Love all the channels.

[@daviddarling8642]

Small wave story: First trip to an outer island (archipelago deleted). Waves were small, conditions generally onshore. My buddy and I saw a distant point to the south. “Let’s go check that out, might stick out enough to not be onshore.” So we find a dirt road off main road opposite that area, drive to the end and find a stretch of beach. We over shot the point, so it was still onshore and small. We decide to hike north along dune back to this secluded and wild point. We brought food and water luckily, as it was a 45 minute hike on a sand dune. At the start there was a shipwreck, about a 100’ steel tanker, a little ominous. Further along we saw shit that looked like broken bits of airplane wing or something. Ok, this is getting sketchy. We cross the point at a stinky saltwater pond we saw on the map, get to the other side and gaze upon a tiny cove with an A-frame breaking across its center with beautiful little chest high waves and offshore conditions. Eureka! The cove was limestone bottom with nothing but urchins, everywhere! I had brought a pair of O’Neill reefwalkers, I was set. My buddy, “oh no, guess I’ll have to wear my Teva sandals.” I laughed but said he’d better, as it wouldn’t be fun hiking back 45 minutes with f’ed up feet. We paddle out and trade super fun waves for about an hour. I was out the back as he was paddling back after a fun right. He’s all ear to ear grin. I notice something in the water behind him. Queue the music. “Holy shit, look at the size of that thing!” This is what he said my first words were. I insist I said, “Do not look back, just paddle to toward me and the shore and take the first wave in!” Then I said, “Shark!” It was about 7’ or 8’ long. I could tell by the beautiful dorsal fin that caught my attention and the glimpse of tail that broke the surface about 4’ back. It was following him at his pace, about 20’ or 30’ back. Luckily a little set was coming in. He caught the first one and just belly rode it to the beach. I caught the second one, rode right (had too, it was a good one) then drifted back left toward center of cove, laid down and rode in on my belly, over about 10,000 urchins. We get up on the dry sand, huffing and puffing, look at each other, wide-eyed, and explode into laughter. He then blurts, “Shit, I lost one of my sandals coming in, now I gotta make the hike through the hot sand barefoot.” Me, “no you don’t!” And I raise my left hand with his other sandal. I had seen it bobbing in the white water while on my belly, steered left and made the perfect grab on the way by. More laughs followed, then lunch, and the hike back to the car. We got back on that horse though. We went back the next day. Same exact fun little waves. No shark, visible anyway.

[@mikebranch7928]

Can you do a show on rescuing people? I’ve brought people in on my board a couple times and it was super awkward. Can’t imagine managing someone injured or unconscious in the rip. Would love to see you guys talk about rescue theory.

[@Justin-pr6go]

It's crazy you talk about that in the beginning, when I went to Barbados. Nobody has anything and if they export it like the mount gay rum It's so super cheap we snuck 7 bottles in our board bags coming home. But the baggy's swim trunks whatever you want to call them if they import it Nobody down there could afford anything. Our board shorts is hundred american dollars. I saw a guy surfing in hot pink boxer shorts that's all he had. I Left every pair of board shorts I had for the locals.