#14 IS LOCALISM GOOD OR BAD? SURF ETIQUETTE DO’S AND DONT’S, OUR SHARK ENCOUNTERS!

[@KapoorAri]

Don’t get a podcast studio. I think this setup totally works and gives it the laid back feel - don’t change it up!

[@Daikini88]

1:08 one of the things I like about your podcast that sets you apart from the rest is that you guys aren't in podcast studio. the change in scenery every episode is great. Edit... 42:20 seriously though.. no need for a podcast studio, it's great the way it is.

[@lordmatthewlukeobrien]

These guys have suffered through Bert in person so they should have seen how terribly formulaic the podcasts that attempt to mimic the famous sodomite stool humper posterboy podcaster Joe Rogan get by following the trend.

[@rodrigocortez6099]

About localism, if you are local, that means life has blessed you with circumstances that allow you to surf regularly. While other people who have to work their asses off to go to a crowded weekend surfing have less right to get mother nature's waves just because he or she hasn't been fortunate enough to be there so much as the blessed local? You travel 30h to realize a dream you have been gathering money for two years, to be burnt by the guy who's blessed to be there everyday and that's it? Nate and Koa all the respect, you both inspire me. I guess Hawaii is different cos there's so much consequence on the line, but at 95% of the spots, localism is just bravado and self entitlement, it's too comfortable to who's on top

[@wattysreef]

What is being said is that there is a priority/hierarchy to the lineup. The locals who live there, pay taxes there, are invested in their local community and have surfed a spot for decades eat first and the rest get the leftovers. When you get your shot, surf the wave well. It's a very reasonable position and visitors should always tread lightly. You earn your way in, it's not given. That's surfing 101.

[@RCoby-ou2kh]

Hmmm, so when professional surfers come to my local beach, trestles…do they do the same? No. They come in like they own the spot. The localism concept only works if those who have the biggest platform are willing to walk what they talk.

[@rodrigocortez6099]

@@wattysreef territory and hierarchy are of the most ancient forces in our existence, we can feel it in any realm, it's natural. So yes, every pack has a hierarchy implied, the most present, skilled, and the most aggressive are gonna be the ones dominating the peak. The problem is when the natural order is overcome by aggression from locals who put too much weight on a concept, rather then observing the present. If you need to apply to much aggression to assert your position, sth is wrong. Pay taxes and care for community, if you really do so, the respect out in the water in gonna be felt, and localism has a place in such a situation where an ass wants to break the chain. The problem starts when locals grab this concept and exaggerate their right a bit too much

[@wattysreef]

@@rodrigocortez6099 I agree. The Bay Boys are an example of your point. That is localism that crosses the line. That sort of thing doesn’t happen all that often.

[@sea2959]

those are the rules. Dont like it? Take on golfing

[@EllEss331]

I've never surfed in my life, but love the sport and learn so much from listening to you guys. Love the casual approach.

[@bobsmith8124]

They def aren’t casually approaching surfingbhaha

[@EllEss331]

@@bobsmith8124 I guess I should have said "setting" instead of approach.

[@sigipeschke2210]

Keep it casual. The vibes are always there and the conversation is genuine. Appreciate you both, the insights and the guests!

[@freekick129]

I love the changing locations and chill setups of the pod. Y’all are legends, love these episodes

[@pamking7838]

You guys are the best. Having a North Shore Lifeguard would be awesome. Having Koa's Dad would be fantastic for us older surfers who remember how he handled things back in the day. Way ahead of his time. If you could somehow get Titus on and ask him to bring his guitar and do a few tunes would be super fun for everyone. He is the nicest human as well. Thanks for your time you put in and all the great editing and how much you make it fun for all ages.

[@devi-cw7jj]

Having Titus on would be awesome

[@brodiwheeler7583]

Maybe get Tamayo on if He’s down for it… He’s seen lotta different phases in the Pipe Scene. He one sharp cookie too!

[@Beloved-of-the-Divine]

Koa's Dad and Nate's Mom!

[@wisdomoverfear2685]

Don't change your format ....... it's refreshing and informative ! Hands down best surfer podcast going today.......yeah I said it ! I watch you and Koa's and Brett Barley's KZbin channels as soon as I see the notifications ! I don't even watch the CT contest much anymore unless the waves are smokin' because of all the great content you guys put out !

[@Kstross90]

Don’t worry about getting a podcast studio right away. As long as the audio is good, which it is, you’re good. Gives you the freedom to post up anywhere. Also love when you add the video clips as you’re talking about a particular wave/scenario. Keep ‘em coming boys!

[@deannad3566]

Your audience might be broader than you realize. Discovered you as individuals during the early days of the pandemic, became fascinated with the world of surfing, subscribed to your channels. Something I’ll never have the pleasure of participating in but truly enjoy learning about your lives in it. Would love to watch/listen to interviews with lifeguards, Pyzel to hear about his journey, Kai Lenny talk about how you transition from surfing small waves to Nazare… so many fascinating stories to hear.

[@bbwvelvet]

They had Pyzel kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHvUZYWvns9kr7M :O)

[@josealva6958]

I really do like no podcast studio. I watched JOB's podcast with Nate, and JOB said he spent 30k on his studio. That's crazy but the studio seems inauthentic compared to you guys setting up wherever. I would like to see pods on the road wherever you guys travel to also!

[@mannmusica]

I agree. JOB is brand heavy

[@AgSummerStudios]

Love your podcast exactly how you are doing them! Don’t wast your resources on a studio, it’s great just like you are doing them! Sets you apart, and keeps things In your natural settings. Koa, please have your dad on the podcast, would love to see and hear from him.

[@michelemeixner7604]

One of my favorite things online is your guys podcast! Every episode is my favorite. Keep doing your thing, you boys have a gift for talking about so many interesting things, & i always learn so much. My dream is to someday surf, & until that happens, I am literally learning so much about all things surfing from you, plus its like so entertaining!!! Thank you.

[@sandiego764]

Timestamps: 9:47 Highlight of Nate's Australia Shark Island Run 13:52 Koa's sharky Trip to South Australia 17:25 Heavy slabs punishing Nate's Butt 19:55 Smaller waves can be dangerous/ Tom Lowe story 27:19 Lifeguards/ Rick the lifeguard 29:08 Surf Etiquette/ Localism 32:54 Rick the Lifeguard continued 35:52 Q&A "Where do you want to go that you haven't been yet" 39:09 What happened to Nate's face 42:12 Q&A If they're planning on getting a podcast studio 45:05 Koa, Nate, and Eli are going to sit down to drink brewskis on live

[@jpc630]

Love the pod. Totally agree with everything you said about surf etiquette. But, couldn't disagree more on "the localism" aspect of surfing. No one should snake. No one should paddle inside after they've just caught a wave. It's weird behavior, and the fact that it's "the way surfing has been" doesn't make it better. We should try to grow and improve our culture. As a life long enthusiast of all board sports it's the worst aspect of surfing. Compare it to any other sport of even aspect of life. Imaging walking to the front of a cue at your "local" coffee shop. Or cutting people off at your "local" highway. I've never turned up to a skatepark and had someone push past me to hit the rail cause it's their "local" spot. Imagine someone teeing off on a hole while your half way down the fairway cause it's their "local" golf course. Sorry to say, but it's super weird behavior and probably the worst part of the surf culture. Wish it would change.

[@wattysreef]

What is being said is that there is a priority/hierarchy to the lineup. The locals who live there, pay taxes there, are invested in their local community and have surfed a spot for decades eat first and the rest get the leftovers. When you get your shot, surf the wave well. It's a very reasonable position and visitors should always tread lightly. You earn your way in, it's not given. That's surfing 101.

[@marckindl1071]

The podcast combo is a fantastic idea. Specially if it involves two childhood friends. So good!

[@BP-uw9nc]

Doesn't matter if it's your home break. You get a wave and you move to the back of the line doesn’t matter who you are. Just imagine if there's a line up at foodland and you cut into the front of the line just because it's your local foodland same same.

[@raildude270]

Exactly, any other sport people are respectful and take turns. People take surfing way too seriously

[@BP-uw9nc]

@@raildude270 I would rather surf with great whites in south Oz than surf with a pack of privileged sharks at pipe.

[@fredflintstone7924]

totally agree, we were all taught to take turns growing up in all things in life. Not to be a hog, not to cut corners and go straight to the front, whether its a chocolate cake or in the surf we all have a responsibility to share

[@ocnwtr]

Right on about undiscovered spots. They are all over the world. The adventurous get rewarded! Yeew

[@adviseriseofkingdoms2132]

No way try go get in a pick up game of basketball in Harlem

[@davidsmith422]

I think these horror stories you tell about bad wipe outs are extremely beneficial to all surfers who are not at your level of experience. You guys are actually saving lives with this podcast.

[@JZZA1]

Thanks for letting us hangout with you guys on this awesome podcast

[@sbutler66]

I like the casual setup. The audio quality is great, means there's less resistance to record, can record anywhere, interview more guests. Keep em coming!

[@alvatrous]

11:20 love the talking over the surf clips or clips from locations where you are telling stories. keep it up editors :D

[@dalj9875]

My best shark story...sitting in the lineup at Cocoa Beach FL 2ndLight, with about a dozen others, I noticed way far on my left, the guys putting their feet up on their boards...and then I noticed the huge fin moving down the line past them...when it came up to me (my feet of course up on the board), I saw it was a huge 12-15 foot shark. It slowly swam by me, easing its way on down the line...not a word said by anyone...we just kept surfing the rest of the day. I agree with the "if they want you, they will get you". I also was sitting in the lineup and a mullet shoots out of the water across the front of my board...and then followed by a 6 foot shark chasing it. But the truly surprising thing was how fast each fish was...like a bullet shot...no way I could have done anything to stop it if it had wanted me...sharks are cool...later, dj

[@natemeek6628]

Great episode ! The reason why I love watching you guys is because it so chill and real . I feel like I am just hearing you guys talk story . Keep on keepin it real 🤙🏼

[@claireantonia1830]

Loved this episode! In future episodes, it’d be cool to hear more about life traveling during different times of year and keeping connected with family/significant others.

[@Bgrowz-confidentcake]

Pls keep it casual, podcasts always go through this life cycle and they eventually turn into a overproduced product that has no soul, this is raw real and good.

[@skyfish1]

Keep the breaks regulated. And keep the conversations on the couch, the lazy boy,gym,in the yard and at the dining room table ect... anywhere but a studio.. Always a great listen boys

[@dj_redlocks]

I was just thinking yesterday how sick it would be for you guys and Andrew Huberman to do an episode. Shout out to Bert Kreisher for getting you guys on to this!

[@antoniovandias8653]

Guys, this is one of the best surf channels at the moment. Thank you so much for this. Biggest of alohas from portugal.

[@r.d.thomas5253]

Please, never make a studio...you two are a original brotherhood talking about incredible things like we all do with our bros...Best podcast I have ever come upon about surfing...Best to you both Nate & Koa in life, health, growth and blessed over safety out there...Aloha...No ka 'oi!!!!🤜🤛🤙

[@jasoneriksson8207]

Keep the podcast like it is, no studio. You guys are spot on about the generic podcast thing. It's cool like it is! : )

[@Sandgalah]

Nathan: regarding your comment about mental health strategies etc and saturation on media - You’re right - do things you love build-in physical activity and above all - Have Fun - be with mates and do it daily. Hands down The best advice in these times of over blown information on mental health around. And I’m a therapist! ❤

[@Heiiiiidiiii]

Love how you’re talking about the hypocrisy of wellness social media. You guys keep it so real, thank you 🙏

[@parkerallwood5492]

36:04 nearly swerved off the road driving to work hearing this. Stoked to get my question pulled for the pod. Keep up the solid work boys, excited to see what y’all get into in the year ahead!

[@TruthIsNot4Sale]

Yah just hanging casually with you two is great like friends 👏👏👏 love all the chit chat it’s alllll good!

[@kiwijmb]

Yes it would be awesome to hear from the Pipe Lifeguards and Eddie R - their stories would be legend

[@Leftyloveshuskies]

I like the chilled, you never know where we will be, podcast studio.

[@tonygSDWR]

You're right on the money when talking about surf etiquette currently, and it's interesting to hear guys your age recognize the change. I'm like 30 years older than you guys, I see a really big difference and it's a real problem. Way too many people surfing everywhere now never knowing or caring about etiquette, they just do what they want. I think it's a big reflection on society.

[@kairandbellinger1973]

It's a reflection on how cool and fun surfing is. There is a difference between etiquette and localism. I follow etiquette, but when it's my turn - I'm going, why do I have to give up my turn, after I've waited, someone has just paddled out who lives there?

[@cherylesera1445]

Brah, you boys are killing the podcast thing.

[@masonceci8100]

Love the casual vibe of the podcast. keep it up nate and koa

[@daxgansz3939]

Nice work! Agreed keep it organic and on the fly also huge props to your film and edit crew the Eddie aikau vlog is so next level along with many others 🤙

[@colmanmcvaney4295]

I like it in your l;ifing room. Feels authentic. Low key the most authentic podcast I've listened too

[@labsurfer]

About Japan: I think you guys were talking about John's barrels in "dear suburbia". That spot is south of Toyko. Live here since 4j, kite and surf. Tons of great waves in Chiba and Kanagawa, biggest during typhoon season (Aug-Dec). The spot from Andy Irons vs. Kelly Slater at Quiksilver Pro Japan is also one of my favourites. Big wave point closeby too. Keep the cast casual and unpolished guys! No need for fancy. One camera is also enough

[@realeyesrealizereallies6828]

That was a funny example you gave at the beginning of the podcast..Because I did something like that, but it was before KZbin..I rented this 600 square foot garage in the middle of nowhere, it was $200 bucks a month and had a bathroom..So I built a little apartment out of it, lived there illegally, saved all my money, and bought one piece of property after the next..All in areas in forests, that people frequented for vacation. They had to be zoned properly for building cabins..And I built cabins on 5 different properties, now I have 26 cabins that I rent out on AIRBNB, just installed solar systems for them all..But, that took 15 years of saving money, searching for property and building in my spare time..But, now I live in my favorite places in the forest, fish, ride dirt bikes, snow mobiles, hike, Kayak, meet all kinds of people from all over the country/world, and do what I want..So, it is a thing..

[@jerodwofford9707]

Thanks!

[@expeditionbasset]

Lol best podcast yet boys! Keep up the great content

[@Gazzy.]

Wooh! boys are back in town!

[@seawolf3565]

Love these! 🙏🏼 Wld love to see koa’s dad interview & nrth shore lifeguards 🔥

[@morris7025]

Keep it casual and down to earth - you guys are doing a great job, don't change!

[@jaaackattackk]

i honestly would love to see an animation or drawing examples of surfing etiquette, or intricacies. i’ve heard this for YEARS (but don’t surf) and am so interested in this

[@BroHooks]

Much better audio, great conversation. Thanks boys

[@hughlawson5399]

good job educating beginners on the subtleties of surf etiquette. it needs to be done.

[@michaelmorris4182]

I would be interested to hear yall discuss the relationships between surfers and whoever yall have towing you into waves. I’m sure their knowledge on a particular wave has alot to do with your choice-what other factors? Do you pair up with the same guy each tow session at a given wave year after year? Etc.

[@francosammartino2523]

Mental health is so important, is good you guys are putting it out there. Is definitely a key thing in todays society. Also, its key to spend your time moving and living life.

[@MD-sg1cq]

Can you guys teach us about board selection? I just watched Nate’s Puerto Escondido video and I’m curious cause I see you guys riding 6’6s at Pipe but then guns/semi-guns on other slabs. What makes you choose a gun over a step up and how do you gauge which length gun to ride? Thanks guys!

[@womprat2447]

Keep it casual. It's like being there hangin' out with you guys on the North Shore.

[@davidharney6409]

PLEASE KEEP IT CHILL - We love the inclusion! !!!!

[@bongofly]

You guys are really calming to listen to and great episode 🦈 Many podcasts are becoming repetitive. I really Like ur style Bois ! - no need for a studio. Shooting new locations makes a great show ! No intro music, clap 👏🏼

[@jessicameierrichbourg]

My favorite podcast! You guys are always entertaining together. Love the chill vibes

[@billybobthorton]

There were two comments, I think both were made by Koa that had me rolling. One was "I'm a surfer too... when is it going to be MY turn?" the other was "When you think its your turn, its not. Great job guys!

[@raff23able]

Saying what needs to be said. Good work chaps.

[@JDtheFreak]

There is a lack of etiquette in everything anymore, not just surfing. The narcissism created by antisocial media and the entitlement of those who believe they are allowed to act this way is out of control and only going to worsen.

[@TheAlohabrudda]

Man, just as I’m on the wagon 😂. The beer podcast is a cool idea. You guys are making “core” accessible- mainly through your personalities and chemistry. No studio is the way forward.

[@koreannederr5593]

Your viewers are sophisticated enough to appreciate you doing things unique to who you are and how you wish to create....much love and Aloha 🌺

[@wildhareonthegulfofmexico3539]

Totally enjoy hearing what you all deal with on your journeys for the wave.

[@wildhareonthegulfofmexico3539]

And this format is the best, no doubt. Soooo appreciate you not following the dumbfck crowd.

[@markfitzurka9995]

The steps from 1-14 is so much better. Love the editing so much better. No crickets and cop cars like episode 1

[@ShhooterMcGavin]

Watching Nate’s last video in Puerto Escondido, I can confidently say that in retrospect, it’s a miracle I didn’t die the couple of times I went there. Being a novice surfer, I knew my limits. But that didn’t stop me from bodysurfing when it was too big for me to surf. That being said, the poundings I took bodysurfing were brutal and I don’t know how I escaped without any injuries looking back on it now.

[@gmama8662]

Great video. Keep the casual boys. Its THE charm!❤

[@drangus6184]

I love the casual chats! it's so relaxing and relatable. I just want a little slice of some cash north shore shop talk after i get off work. Long time listener and follower. I love you guys!

[@kyleybarra1830]

Love your podcasts. Mad respect for both of you. In regards to taking turns or not, when pros from Hawaii are here in California at Trestles, and other magazine covered locations, they’re the ones “taking turns “ with each other. The locals get the leftovers for the most part. And this isn’t during pre-contest time when they’re warming up. It’s any time they’re in the line up. Thoughts on that? When you surf those spots, do you give the locals priority or paddle to the top of the peak and dominate?

[@afs-drew9644]

🎉 Awesome podcast format .. so chill. Great to hear about your experiences. Miss Hawaii. Hope to be back soon.

[@bonrodgers4096]

You guys are hilarious you make me laugh every time I watch your podcast. Keep going love with all your surfing is awesome big-time .

[@TheVisualante11]

WISDOMATIC!!! Im stealing that word Nate.

[@ggar9623]

casual setting is definetly the way to go, makes the poadcast much fresher

[@Angelanialford]

Aloha! I have a question- I am born and raised here on Oahu, I’ve been an ocean lover my whole live with body surfing, free diving, swimming, and now just in the past few years- surfing. Personally, I feel the bigger the waves are, the more fun they are to surf- there is more room for maneuvers and you get such a beautiful feeling. One wave I’ve had my eye on is Sunset, I’ve never surfed there, but what a beautiful wave. I don’t ave much experience in bigger surf, what can I do to prepare? Physical fitness training? Breath work? Swimming? What are your thoughts?

[@PS-wc9en]

Get Eddie on!!!!!!!! Legend of legends!!!!!

[@onetimesportfishing3023]

Love these podcast!!! Very enjoyable conversation!

[@NQshawn]

great stuff! random thought I grew up surfing and have snowboarded, natural foot. but for last 2 years only wing foil. I ride switch but also swap natural to goofy, which was weird given surfing background. But feels quite natural riding goofy now. It made me think why I've never seen a pro surfer learn to ride both ways and therefore eliminate backhand. I feel like if surfers, at your level, you spent 3-6 months practising it would be doable. Keep up good work. peace to all

[@whereisthematrixedge]

Good to hear u love willem powerfish Nate.. epic stuff watching your lines at port escond.. bro .. stay cruisy

[@francoish5253]

Casual approach is nice! I feel like I am there with you guys. Nate, was nice to meet you in Mexico! 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻

[@mikefree3511]

Great show guys! You Rock!

[@mateogarcia7695]

Just had a question about localism! How do you identify who is a local and who isn't if you are unfamiliar with the break? Or do you assume that everyone is local?

[@hughlawson5399]

usually the locals are the ones getting the best waves and sitting in the exact right spot. you get a feel for it after many years of surfing. a good rule is to sit wide and watch for 10 minutes to figure out where you belong in the pecking order. the locals will notice you being polite and you may even get more waves this way. it will take years to become a local at good spots. after 25 years surfing in my area I have one spot where I'm top of the pecking order, 10 minutes down the road the top dogs will paddle around me and sometimes burn me even though they've seen me surfing there for many years. if you're travelling you're gonna have to expect to be near the bottom of the pecking order everywhere you go unless it's very uncrowded, you're a professional or you have some very good local friends. also, nothing pisses a local off faster than ruining their wave by getting in the way. you can kiss your chances of getting any good waves goodbye if you keep getting in the way.

[@ChristopherLasscock]

Love listening to your stories. I can let you know of a big wave spot on Kangaroo islands south coast, our winter is the best time, it handles it as big as it gets, i surf a point break just near it. A few guys surf it but very few, as it is a bombie and you have a great wave where you don't have to paddle offshore next to it.

[@mikemoloney506]

Nice chat men... they.. whoever they are.. lie to us straight to our face. And your right just do what makes you happy. Im in the senior age group and spent many years with no tv there was no internet. Nature was and is my escape. Keep doing what you do. Love the podcast.

[@Beloved-of-the-Divine]

And no cell phones!

[@LiftRunStretch]

Y’all should cruise the line-up in California with some mics and talk localism etc… go to windansea, el Porto, +

[@SteveStJean-ee4uu]

Love this stuff. Keep up the great work. Regarding the always controversial topic of localism, here's a EPISODE TOPIC IDEA: Special guest Eddie and/or Kala and/or Kaiborg on to discuss Black Shorts > Wolf Pak > current enforcement culture (or lack thereof). No more lickens these days, and the result is the kookfest lineups you allude to here.... or so it would seem to this Haole, anyways. Too controversal?

[@James-ue5xr]

Morgan Street beach Wanganui. Heavy slabbing beach break. Scored it over head this very morning got some siiiiiiick ones. Wanganui a in New Zealand's north Island by the way haha. Heavy. Waiting for the tide drop to get number two surf in for the day

[@pickleforknwiggles634]

R.I.P. Dane Kealoha..... to whom I took the worst beatdown of my life at inside back door Circa1985, (to stay out of his way)....I tried to talk to him about the the barrell he got and the pounding I received .... I Got stink eye anyway... R.I.P. you legend.❤EPIC PODCAST BOYS!

[@tissuesinmypocket]

This is elite, podcast channel has made me more interested In your other channels.

[@surfr4evr2]

Great podcast boys! Koa, definitely a good idea to go get checked out especially since you hate sunblock😎 Nate, haole boy… I recommend you going at least once a year, preferably every six months. I had a squamous cell carcinoma removed from my face last year, not too bad of a scar, but I ignored it longer than I should have. Mahalo and see you boys in the water.

[@likeitornotbut5900]

As a veteran (old) surfer I would love to see podcasts with some of the "back in the day" local Hawaiian surfers, Rory, bertlman, Bobby Owens , the Ho's, you know!

[@jonathonmurrison939]

Great show guys good job lol let’s number all the podcasts

[@Julianjusteo]

Thanks for another great podcast 👍

[@jamesroscoe7555]

Kind of interesting that you guys sound more concerned about great whites (in Oz) than tiger sharks (in Hawaii). My impression was that great whites are mostly just after seals and that tiger sharks were more likely to consider humans to be a food source. Maybe I'm off on that, definitely wouldn't want to run into either, haha. Our winters are too cold for great whites, so they're only around in summer and fall.

[@Beloved-of-the-Divine]

Bull sharks and tigers are no joke

[@AdamJonesNZ]

Yes come to New Zealand, 15 000 km (10 000 miles) of coastline, plenty of known and unknown waves.

[@TGEBS15]

I think that wave pools,as designs allow for larger scale 100-200 people in the water catching waves, can be a good outlet for the masses that are interested in surfing. Having a place with consistent waves allows them a place to go to regularly and just the relatively safer and controlled environment would be appealing for them. Sport grows but spots are more for serious surfers. The wave pools become more like a ski resort with manicured slopes and man made snow as required.

[@brycedeshetler4870]

Question for Nate, can you possibly post more of your workouts? I know there’s a good chunk on your instagram stories but I’ve been using them to get in to shape and some more variety would be great. I’m terrible at making up my own because I never make them efficient or hard enough. Thanks!

[@garystewart9699]

Great Podcast! You guys really have something,your chemistry really works well together and like someone else said you can talk about anything and it's entertaining. Would love to see a lifeguard interview. Talking about the power of waves I stationed at Schofield barracks ?( Ya one of those military guys!) but my wife worked in Hawaii Kai and I would go down to Sandy Beach and watch the tourist get rocked, swim trucks around their ankles looking Hella confused....good times! Keep doing what your doing and thanks!

[@Toby3610]

I’m with you. Not that I’m a big wave surfer or much of a surfer at all. But you got to live your life. I think you guys have shown what life is about. Friends, surf (nature), learning. I grew up south of Sydney in Wollongong. Had a couple of experiences with dolphins. Dolphins riding the waves with us was a fun one. We had a quick session one day and our dog was on the beach with our mum going for a walk. The dog came running back to us barking and wanting us out. It was a few dolphins, school fish and a few min (10ish) we a smaller shark came through. Not fun. We got out because of the school of fish, our dog and it being cold. ❤ love this podcast. My brother stopped surfing because of a fall of a surfboard and he hit , well landed on his head with a lot of his body weight and cracked a bone in his back. Thankfully it didn’t damage his spinal cord. He got himself to shore and stopped because of the pain. Ended up with a back and head brace for 9months. He couldn’t do his hair ended up shaving it, couldn’t brush his teeth, eat, go to the bathroom.

[@pearl-pf6xz]

Oz, unwritten law, NEVER turn your back on the sea..... 60 years a waterman from the 'nulla'. Localism... Back in the day, Cronulla is geographically one area, but from 'shoes' to 'greenhills' the different breaks had localism from within in abundance. Melanoma... Had stage 1 on my arm, took 2 goes to cut it out, my mate had 1 on his leg, given 3 to 6 months, he has made it to 12 months with still no certainty. Get CHECKED yearly, especially if Australian as the sun is nasty down here.

[@lifeontherally]

Japan in the fall during typhoon season. I won't name spots, but when there's swell, lots of empty breaks.