Neat Method To Remove PCB Connectors / Desoldering Connectors

[@angryknome94]

Thank you for sharing a great update to the old just flood it method, its so much more controlled with the extra wire pieces. I just wanted to share these anecdotes as a safety consideration for those using this method. When I was 10 I was doing the just flood it with solder method to remove something from a PCB. The PCB was taped down to the edge of the table I was sitting at and the connector I was trying to remove was overhanging the edge. The tape came loose during the process and the board shifted when I pulled on the connector with pliers spilling a pool of molten solder the size of 2 stacked quarters on my knee while I was in shorts. Lets just say molten metal burns really suck and can have a lot in common with molten plastic burns. Later in life I used this method quite a bit while working at an electronics repair shop. I used a bench mounted PCB vice as to not to spill it no myself again, but during one PS4 repair I ended up learning that molten solder can go up too... The corner of the board was flexed while preloading the connector a bit and it sprung back when the connector finally came out and threw molten solder about 2ft in the air which splashed little droplets everywhere when it hit the desk. Lucky no one was hurt that time because I was standing and not looking down directly over it and my coworkers where far enough away not to catch the splash either but I learned I should at least be wearing safety goggles or a face shield and make sure I'm not near some one next time I have to use this method. This method works very well pretty consistently but considering I've had one incident and a close call with the basic version of this method now I try and save messing with large molten blobs of solder for known stubborn connectors, fragile boards or for when other tools haven't done the job. Hopefully this helps someone to be aware of one more of the little unexpected risks others have encountered so it doesn't catch ya by surprise too. I hope everyone has fun and stays safe in the electronics hobby! Happy making!!

[@stevejagger8602]

You see you can teach an old dog new tricks! An excellent yet simple method of removing multipin connectors. Thank you

[@audiogear474]

Interesting method-i never would have thought of this. The best method I've used for removing components from weak solder pads I discovered awhile back. I was servicing this high end components and the pads were just coming off super easy with wick or with hakko desoldering station. What I did was very briefly removed a little solder from each joint with a wick then added very low melt solder to each joint. I was then able to use reflow station to remove component quickly without any damage.

[@TinMan-jb5gf]

Very creative solution for those with out a rework station. Well done.

[@95rav]

Hot air stations are not the best when the locating pins are plastic - which is see more and more these days.

[@stagggerlee]

I spent 20 years in electronic repair. Flooding seems like a rather elegant way to remove multi pinned devices. Good job. I will try this if I'm ever faced with this type of repair.

[@youtubasoarus]

That is brilliant! I wouldn't have ever come up with an idea like this. I've tackled these buggers and VGA ports before. A total nightmare, even with hot air. This is quite interesting. Thanks for the tip!

[@ppdan]

Everything you come accross today is done with lead free solder which has a higher melting temperature. Try adding leaded solder before using hot air. PS : of course you shouldn't do this if the company you work for/with has restrictions on using leaded solder!

[@youtubasoarus]

@@ppdan Right, and you'd think that. I've tried. It's not as easy as it sounds. The old shit won't really like to mix and you can't really mix the new solder down into the vias where it likes to cause a problem. I've had nothing but problems previously. I've looked into a desoldering gun at this point but this video may have swayed me, temporarily at least. Also, the other problem you run into is adding too much heat via air and it starts melting things you don't want. His method is much cleaner.

[@ppdan]

@@youtubasoarus Sometimes you have to add solder, remove and add again. This rises the amount of leaded solder considerably thus lowering the melting point. Also don't go to hot on your hot air rework station and be patient since hot air takes time to bring everything up to the right temperature. I use this method a lot and can remove things like EISA connector and other big connectors with no problems. It just takes a lot of practice and patience, especially to find the right setting for your hot air station.

[@youtubasoarus]

@@ppdan Thanks for the tips! I'll try that in addition to the ones in this video next time I wrestle with these lol.

[@ppdan]

@@youtubasoarus get yourself some old boards from things you are going to trash anyway and test on those before ruining the things you wanna fix. Any boards from PCs, printers or copy machines (especially the older ones) can have challenging parts to remove.

[@JeSuisNerd]

I've been soldering electronics since I was a kid, and never even tried solder wick until about a year ago. That stuff is borderline magical in how easily it sucks it away! My spring-powered solder sucker has seen much less use except for clearing solder out of deep vias. One note worth mentioning, it's so much easier to clear out existing joints when you add your own leaded solder to it, especially if you have a cheap lower-wattage iron like I do. The leaded solder melts much more easily than the lead-free stuff they are often required to use on consumer products, so you usually have to add a glob of fresh solder before you can even melt the existing stuff.

[@Anclesam72]

Leaded? Rose's metal

[@3nertia]

I've tried like half a dozen different cheap solder suckers but never really had success with one till I bought my Engineer SS-02 solder sucker - it's the only one worth having!

[@andrewmcdonnell8613]

Thanks!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel and your generosity , it's really appreciated 👍

[@andyspoo2]

Me: "No way is this going to be a new method but I'll check it out anyway"................"Wow a new method 🙂"

[@jonathanrees3765]

4 outer pins have a mechanical grip on the board - this is common for connectors. Best to de-solder these first, straighten them out (use fine pointed long/needle nose pliers) then use this or similar method. Connector will come out easier, may even literally just drop out. Easy to remove solder from through holes by using a solder sucker on the opposite of the board to the soldering iron - heat 1 side, suck from other.

[@derekloudon8731]

I spent all my 50+ career in electronics and you are quite right to “take it slowly” the number of people that rush into this kind of repair and end up damaging the board by using a screwdriver to prise the component off whilst unsoldering one or two connections. I have has some good tips from your channel (yes you can teach an old dog new tricks).

[@MrAlexthemachine]

You made a radiator to conduct the heat and keep the solder molten! Excellent!

[@213zombieman]

I love watching you work. I wish I found your site before I damaged a slew of pieces and boards. I am looking forward to the next time I have something to disassemble. Thank you so much!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your kind words , really appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Well done, thank you for using a complex fitting to demonstrate on. I watched another vid and it was on a simpler connection. I tried it on my own with mixed results. I like your wire layout style, and you could see how fast the copper transmitted the heat everywhere. Using a powerful soldering iron really helps so you can give 'er the beans. Great instructional.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@SirWerner..]

Very old trick, often seen but as more videos exists as easier to find.... good job

[@brandonfarfan1978]

That is a creative yet amazing way, to remove that PCB connector. Great work Mr. SolderFix.👏

[@rogierius]

Two things impress me each time, the steady hand holding the tweezers and the totally unbent, pointy & perfect looking tweezers.

[@nrj7]

Enjoy your videos...always!! Makes me wanna try and do more soldering. For me you're the "Lord of the Solde-ring" 🤴😊

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , really is appreciated 👍

[@eddiepires3998]

I have used your method seen in one of your other videos for my private stuff and at work and it works really well, thanks for sharing 😊

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you've found my channel of use , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍

[@034G63EVO]

Thank you again for another very informative video. I have seen you use these methods before, but I really love seeing different applications of it. Go for a DVI connector next! BTW, Your friends that convinced you to start doing your youtube channel and spread your knowledge.... You need to take them to the pub and tell them thank you, from me... You have 90K people here that thank you for sharing.

[@yeroca]

I really like this technique! Using wire as a heat conductor to keep all of the pins hot is genius.

[@Blinkerd00d]

Very cleaver idea. I have a roll of larger diameter solder that I use to "blob and plop" as I call it. I just flood the area with solder into a big blob, and it'll just fall out. For something with pins as spread out as this, this would work pretty well. I'll have to give this a go.... maybe using some stranded wire fanned out would also work.

[@tigheklory]

I love this technique! Uses a lot of solder but looks like a very safe method!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@ducomaritiem7160]

Thanx,❤ 20 years ago I've worked for years at a repair company and did hundreds, maybe several thousand mbo's but used wick, flux and the desoldering iron (weller). This is very good when you don't have one😊

[@theoldbigmoose]

Low melt solder and hot air for the win

[@beatadalhagen]

Beautiful camera work, have not seen that much clear detail of a hole being unplugged.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is really appreciated . I always try and get clear views to try and help people see what's going on . Thanks again , take care 👍

[@paulbunting4260]

Another method used is to heat up the area with hot air and firmly grasp the pcb and hold it at a 45 degree angle, then gently tap out the solder from the holes. Used to work brilliantly at removing all those 21 pin scart sockets. Just don't go mad and damage the pcb. We also used to hold these pcb over a solder melting pot used for tinning wires, then gently pulled up on those scart sockets, then used the hot air and tap out method, described above.

[@alex92023]

As vezes, você cobra um valor justo pelo seu trabalho profissional e o cliente acha caro! Ele/Ela não tem ideia de como é retirar determinados conectores da placa! Aprendi mais uma técnica TOP. Obrigado por compartilhar conosco suas habilidades e técnicas.

[@senseisecurityschool9337]

At 8:30, when it was all covered with solder, I was somewhat expecting him to say "and now you're well and truly screwed." 😁

[@RandomTorok]

Brilliant! I'm a real newbie to electroics so this was really helpful. I especially like the tip to dip the wick in flux. Makes so much more sense but I'd never thought of it.

[@Rottel3D]

You are the BEST! This is old school, I really like it this method! Thank you very much! ;)

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , it really is appreciated 👍

[@raphaelgomes5511]

Just tried this technique, really helpful, thanks and keep up such a good work!

[@rockyhill3]

You are truly an artist, nice work!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍

[@wasdaletimelapse7658]

Great tip, I have seen similar technique before but still a great tip. I am amazed at the amount of heat that the board and the component can tolerate.

[@saidutube]

Beautiful!!! Greetings from southern Chile. Thank you!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your kind words and your support of my channel , it really is appreciated 👍

[@antonyrodriguez5621]

Very educational! Saving this video for future use.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I've used this method successfully a number of times with great success . If you do ever use it I hope it works for you too . Thanks again , take care 👍

[@edinfific2576]

Good technique, I did it a couple of times. You would use less solder if you use a thicker copper wire which fits right between the rows of pins, because there would be a smaller gap to bridge between it and the pins. As you can see, the flat grounded shield pins were bent to improve their mechanical stability in the board, so wiggling it in the direction of the flanged surfaces/sides (instead of inward and outward wiggling from the PCB) should make it easier to pull out. I typically use solder sucker to clear the holes.

[@kennith.]

Thank you for sharing these techniques.

[@elvinhaak]

Wow! I wished I had known tis like 40 years ago!

[@katelikesrectangles]

interesting idea, that came out a lot cleaner than i expected. thanks!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your time is much appreciated 👍

[@NeilsNonsense]

What a great method. I guess it's just creating a large continuous thermal conductive region to spread the iron's heat around all of the pins evenly until it drops out? It's a bit more involved than using a desolder vacuum pump, but much less risk of lifting/damaging the pads so well worth it if retaining the board is important.

[@Bob.Jenkins]

Excellent technique. Might I suggest using a thin Copper sheet instead. Reflow the connector Pins as usual, place a small piece of Copper sheet over it to act has a thermal transfer device and heat with a Hot Air Gun. Note: Pre-coating the side that's in contact with the Pins with a thin layer of Solder will assist with adherence and heat transfer.

[@jjlmnop5226]

the large ones in corners bigger then the others so not sure wold work. theirs too many pins and you cant see whats going on either. i get it tho you would cut the copper have large mond of solder, then heat it and make sure theirs flux and enough solder to on bottom?

[@jjlmnop5226]

it just drops out too, although you would think a plate would be nice to give it a shove. you do not want to do that or you will certinly lift traces on bottom

[@CraigHollabaugh]

Nice lo-fi approach.

[@AdamDavisEE]

tl;dr: Cover the entire area with solder by bending wire into a mat of sorts so all pins are covered with one large blob of solder and the iron can heat all pins simultaneously, then use solder wick to clear the holes.

[@gregebert5544]

I never understood why you have to put "fresh" solder into the joint; it seems silly that solder would age and become stubborn. But after removing countless thru-hole parts over the years, it's definitely true. I use a suction device to get most of the solder removed, but as this video shows, braid always gets the last remnants out and cleans-up the plated-thru holes very nicely.

[@tenminutetokyo2643]

Metal bonding. It can bind to the pin metal over time. New soldering loosens it up.

[@cassiofonte8172]

In fact it's not about solder aging or "new" solder. It's about the solder chemical composition. The "new" solder you add is likely leaded solder instead of the original lead-free solder from the original motherboard. Thus you lower the melting point using leaded solder making it easier desoldering.

[@radensb]

It's not the "fresh solder". What you are introducing is fresh FLUX from the new solder. Put flux on an old solder joint and it will flow like new.

[@zebo-the-fat]

it can also be helpful to use low melting point solder

[@notsaucemanofficial]

nah dude you just lowering melting point with it

[@Jogmaster9]

Very impressive, a technique I will use.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you 👍

[@TheIronHeadRat]

Very clever, thanks for sharing 👍

[@zepeuf]

Perfectly obvious... once told ;) Thanks

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍

[@MostWeakest]

THIS IS AMAZING ♥

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@Msound500]

🤩❤️ Great video, thanks for sharing this copper wires idea ! Would use low melt solder to make it easier , like chipquik or other brands

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍

[@nexpro6985]

This is a must-see tutorial. Thanks.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and taking the time to comment . Your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@MrCWoodhouse]

Great mate! Thanks a lot. I would put flux on when you are making the heating pad.

[@jackgrey3340]

Perfect as usual, thanks for sharing 👍 It's interesting that long heating does not damage the plastic "body" of the connector...

[@jlucasound]

Thank You Mr. SolderFix!!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@TheUnofficialMaker]

you are the solder king

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated 👍

[@KolyaNadj]

Nice method. Tnx.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍

[@311superfly]

Sweet work!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@maffysdad]

I find watching the solder wick up the braid more theraputic than learning with Mr SolderFix videos... Strange eh? It's like, I remember how much I struggled as a kid desoldering with pliers and a soldering iron (couldn't afford wick or a pump in the 1980's, they were well outta my pocket money income bracket). Trouble is these days my hands shake and my eyes are going, so all the tools just can't use them... :-( and what used to take me and pliers 30secs and left a mess, now takes me 40mins but it's much tidier... :-D

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍

[@a.a.2677]

Definately have to try and test this method, thank you!

[@goober650NX]

Excellent tutorial. 👍👍👍 Great intro and outro guitar playing, is it yourself playing?🤔

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm sorry to say it wasn't me playing the guitar . If I could play like that I'd give up soldering and go touring 😁

[@TerryClarkAccordioncrazy]

Another way to clean holes is to heat from one side and apply the solder sucker to the other side. Its tricky to line them up but it works really well.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I have used the method you mention quite a few times with great success, but only with a heated solder sucker ( Metcal ). I normally get someone else to hold the iron on one side while I heat and suck from the other . Even on difficult 3mm thick boards works great . The cheap manual solder suckers I have no time for . Prefer solder braid over these . Thanks again , take care 👍

[@christophersebastian4855]

Very good sir.😊

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@gabotron94]

Can see this working for SMD chips as well... 😯

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@benbaijan8507]

Thank you. This is very useful to know!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍

[@tonywalker8250]

Interesting, thankyou.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video , really appreciated 👍

[@primathaksh-id3np]

Excellent!!!!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated 👍

[@nR-kv7xo]

Imma use this to remove some edge connectors… smart idea

[@ethrrr]

Very good method. Tested and approved :D

[@fullwaverecked]

Noice! Good job! Thank you!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very kind of you 👍

[@iconoclad]

Brilliant technique!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@trombabaroque]

Nice trick indeed! As I often use low-temperature bismut solder for desoldering purposes - this reduces the thermal stress for the PCB a lot - I wonder if this would also work for components like this, because it's a long way for the bismut to alloy with the tin all through the hole.

[@mr.mcpurrz3143]

Very cool. Great great tip!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

[@pfoxhound]

Awesome video! Thanks for tutorials! 👍

[@kerbalette156]

Your an artist

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your kind words , really appreciated 👍

[@OnnieKoski]

Thanks for this!

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciated 👍

[@Ascent41]

Great vid,. Thank you for sharing. Being new to soldering, can I ask what flux you use please?

[@RJHElias]

Fantastic! I am a 63jr old bloke with 40 years of experience, and still learning from you. Amazing! 👍👍👍Could you please tell me what kind of flux you use?

[@The_Absurdistt]

This is a wonderful method for modern substrates but I would warn against using this method on vintage substrates like phenolic, early FR1 and others. There is a good chance the extended heat time would burn through old substrate. Cheers.

[@seanstraw8688]

Remember also: those solder-laden wire frames can be re-used if you are so inclined, vs re-creating for a certain type of connector over and over. Obviously at some point, you will want to make new ones, but still.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Yes , definitely can be used more than once if needed , thanks for mentioning this 👍

[@perrybrown4985]

I do this but more quickly - just flood the whole thing with heaps of solder. Keep running the iron all over the solder pool to keep it molten. Everything drops out under its own weight. The only down side is the solder that flows through to the other side bit it doesnt take long to clean away the surplus solder and flux. The biggest risk with thru holes is pulling out the plating - so excess heat, time or force are your enemy.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for your comment . An area like this is so much easier to flood with the wire in place , otherwise you'll be forever chasing the solder around . I used to do it the way you mention but not anymore. Thanks again , take care 👍

[@pyrhockz]

Genius thanks.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you 👍

[@juansolo1617]

Cool idea, but I got one, too. Plastic welder. A plastic welder is a soldering iron with a larger iron head... use the square one... put tons of flux on the joints... push down on it with the plastic welder and pull on the component simultaneously. Before that I would use a hot air gun with a focused tip, but that's too much. The plastic welder is actually a beast.

[@anonony9081]

Wow I wish I'd seen this earlier, the other day it took me almost an hour to remove a 3-pin microswitch.

[@el_sturlo]

Awesome idea, very usefeul when you have to remove something big and you need to be absolutely sure to not mess up the pads. Can I ask which brand of flux do you use ?

[@davewyendt1887]

You made it look so easy! How many watts is the station you use, and what size tip was that? Very well done, sir.

[@jamesmaxdavissands]

Before seeing this brilliant tutorial I was removing a rather awkward transformer from a board and 2 of the "buckets" came out of the board and remained on the transformer legs. Have a REALLY messed up? I have no idea if I have permanently damaged the board or not. Did this a couple weeks ago & have placed the unit to the side until I could learn more. Your videos are really helping me because I cannot afford to have these units repaired. Mostly because I cannot find a repairman that I trust. Where I live all the great shops are gone now & everything is closing down. I am near San Francisco, California & our situation is dire. The old transformer (stacked plate) is now obsolete so I finally found one with the same ratings BUT it is totally different . . . It is a Torordial transformer (like a donut). Is there any reason that I cannot use it as a replacement? I need assistance Sir . . . Can you help? The unit is an audio compressor for microphones that is no longer available. I'm near tears. HELP!

[@coriscotupi]

Good idea. It could be made easier yet by first individually heating each of the four corner lugs and untwisting them with needle-nose pliers while the solder is still melted. This would free them from being mechanically bound to the board, which should then make the remainder of the process a breeze.

[@kiltishly]

Wow, nice one! I'm kinda ashamed to say this but anyway, I'm new to soldering, I purchased a T12 to change the analogue sticks on my son's PS5 controllers to hall effect sticks and there were 14 through pins for each stick, it took me 2 attempts over 2 days to get and about 2M of copper braid, I got them and it works perfectly but If I had seen this I would have definitely given it a try. - Also adding flux to the brain is a great idea, something I never thought of lol.

[@garymucher4082]

Yes making a huge heat sink setup does work. But it all really depends on the quality of the PC board and pads/runners. But when you can, go for it.

[@MasterChef12109]

I'm new to soldering, what's the difference between this and using a silicone pump thing? Thanks! Clever idea tho

[@Skracken]

Difficult to clear the holes out completely with the pins still in there, so the part will still be stuck

[@MasterChef12109]

​@@Skracken what about automatic desoldering irons? do those have enough suction? thanks!

[@ayan.debnath]

just Art!

[@neodiy]

But how long does it takes to bend those wires to make those shape especially for tiny chips?

[@mrsolderfix3996]

@@neodiy hi , this one featured in the video took no more than a minute . It's just another option to try , alongside a hot air gun and solder suckers . I use this method on occasions and hot air on occasions. To remove IC's ( 4 sided ones ) etc I generally use hot air . Solder suckers will generally leave small amounts of solder behind thus risking barrel damage when parts are eased out . Remove parts , then clear holes , definitely safer . Thanks for your comment.

[@neodiy]

@@mrsolderfix3996 how do bend them to make sure its spaced according to the chip pin spaces? i meant the one with lots of twist and turns including the size etc

[@elrinconderoller1560]

This mate are living in year 65000 so clever

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@gazzaka]

das ist gut !

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you 👍

[@donsurlylyte]

clever i like it.

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

[@jjlmnop5226]

liked trace repair video also. I need to attach wire to carbon stripe on a fader pcb. i already fix some 1cm trace with conductive paint, but thought wire might be good useing your techniques. but how to 'attach' then to carbon -- back to the silver paint...(??) Great vids, thanks!

[@sykoteddy]

Another possible method I just came to think about, but that probably wouldn't help in this case since it's such a big area, is to put in a bolt with a big head in it so it is has a larger heating area. Of course, it might not be suitable if it is a component that will be damaged of the excess heat. How I came up with it was, that I yesterday watched how someone did that but for heating plastic when repairing plastic.

[@louf7178]

The squeak of success!

[@vincent_sz]

This method is really useful. Maybe an thin copper plate would make it faster to setup?

[@nullfusion]

a real joy to watch! do you use a fan? leaded solder?

[@mrsolderfix3996]

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I use an extraction fan for the fumes and in this video I did use leaded solder. I do use unleaded in many of my videos though. Thanks again 👍

[@zebo-the-fat]

Unleaded solder is the work of the devil!

[@nullfusion]

@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks! i am quite a rookie, i was soldering on an old univibe pedal to make some modifications, realizing that the unleaded solder can be really difficult to desolder, as it is much less flowing than the leaded one. so i decided to use leaded solder there. but thats pretty well known i guess ;)) i did not have any health problems so far, i hope its not too bad ;)

[@nullfusion]

@@zebo-the-fat haha i think i really agree here!